Totally awesome videos Andy. I watched every one. I've done a couple of tank refurbs and would like to add a few things that worked for me. 1. Buy a plumbers plug for the tank opening. should have a wingnut. 2. Pick up some jb weld for plastic repairs. use it at the petcock opening. 3. Try something called Evapo rust. non toxic and works amazing. 4. Try Caswells tank sealer. it is quite durable. 5. If the tank is too big for the tub, simply elevate the tub on on side as necessary. just my .02 cents. Take care☺
G'day Jim, wow thanks for the great comments. I have learned a lot along the journey from people just like you. This was my first tank de-rust and reline so it was always going to be sketchy. I know the plugs that you are talking about, that's a great idea. If I was to do it again I think I would do things differently. I would use electrolysis to remove the rust for a start. I am happy with the tank liner product I used, and it is holding up just fine, so no issues there. The sealer that I used for the petcock is also holding fast. But the biggest lesson for me was being naive enough to assume the tank would hold fuel prior to painting. Given the chance to do it again I would pressure test the tank and braze, weld, patch, do whatever I needed to do to seal it up before applying the liner and THEN apply paint. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions I used the JB weld to seal the bottom of the tank while derusting and sealing. it kept everything inside and was easy to remove when sealing was completed. I totally agree with you though, we learn by doing. Best regards and keep up the great videos, they're priceless.
Hello Andy, nice job on all the video's of the XS! I have discovered them yesterday and have now caught up with your progress. I have been working with my father on his XS1100. After I had the bike's carbs checked and worked on by a "specialist" it worked for about 200 km's. This was supposed to be a gift from me to him. Then one of the carbs broke wile riding and as a result the cylinder attached to it started burning oil. I ended up on the side of the highway in clouds of smoke. That then was the end of the engine. I can't wait until the moment that you are going to adjust your setting of your carburetors. I hope to learn how to do it myself. Since my adventure with the toasted engine, we have installed another engine which came of my fathers spare-bike. But I think the carbs need some work, so I will be waiting for your video's if they will be made. I really like the fix for the carburetor which had the holder for the floater broken. We had a similar problem on one of the carburetors. Keep up the nice work!
Hello Andy, that's good to know. I'm looking forward to it! Really appreciate the time and effort you are putting in to these video's. They don't do themselves
Hi andy, i was wondering that can i run regular fuel tap (no vacuum) on my XJ......originally it had vacuum fueltap but i really dont trust them, i wud rather have a simple fueltap whit on/off position......But if i do that does my carbs get enough fuel ? Good video :)
+TT GarageRat Of course you can mate. Carb manufacturers don't care how you get the fuel to the carbs. However they probably recommend to manufacturers that they fit a failsafe to prevent flooding and filling the sump with fuel when the bike is parked. My recommendation would be to ensure that you shut the taps off when ever you shut down the bike.
+yankee doodle Yes I have mate, clock is ticking. I want this thing finished and registered asap. I need to take it to the mainland for the first weekend in May and I need to sort through any issues, that will no doubt arise, and get it on a dyno to dial in the carb jetting.
Handy Andy, great tips yet again! When you put the Nuts n Bolts in the tank did you give it a vigorous shake before treating? Just wondering if that then released much corrosion? Cheers Tony. NB just picked up two XJ 's to start my own project!
+Tony Peters G'day Tony, I didn't have much loose stuff left but yes it does. If you have a fair bit of loose rust you will need more than I put it. If your tank is small enough you can wrap it in a towel and stuff it in a dryer and tumble it for a while, but this mahoosive thing ain't going to fit. You just need to be careful that you don't shake it in a manner that can cause the nuts and bolts to dent the tank. I've heard of people using pebbles, but I like nuts and bolts, they're magnetic and easier to retrieve.
so, I picked up a 1979 xs1100. the vacuum advance isnt hooked up to anything. has the airbox configuration too, havent seen much as for the oil seperator or the vent line (I think) from the carbs if you switch to pods, only thing I've been able to find it just upping the jets..... so first is if I dont have the vacuum diaphragm where should hook the vacuum advance? or am I just confused with it
+OMAR DINUNZIO Hi Omar, the vacuum advance hose should run from the vacuum advance diaphragm behind the left hand side crankcase cover to a brass tube on the number two carburetor. As for the oil separator I just ran a hose to a small pod type filter. You could just route it up the frame and cable tie it in place somewhere, doesn't need to plug into anything but it is wise to plug it into a filter of some type to prevent dirt ingress. If you are running pod filters just remove the carburetor bowl vent hoses at the tees. I have been told that any hose at all on the vents will add yet another problem when trying to run pods on CV carbs.
+Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions best to keep the current carbs stock with the airbox? and if I wanted to switch to pods, I would update to a new carb set?
It depends on what you want to end up with, and how much you're prepared to spend. The CV carbs will always work better in a shared airbox. If you can fit the pods to the factory velocity stacks it is supposed to be pretty good. XJ1200 carbs are supposed to be a good upgrade but I ultimately fitted Mikuni flat slides but they come at a cost. All the vents are nothing to worry about, it's just a crankcase breather and a couple of carb vents. They don't need to return to the airbox.
sorry if i missed it in one of the videos but did you do one where you cut, fit and weld on the new cover for the tank after cutting out the old fuel cap? i'm gonna have to do the same thing to my xs1100
No there is no video. I have another tank to prepare and I think this time I will weld a plate over the filler neck and weld the vent hole in the neck and then plate over the whole thing. That way I only need it to seal at the filler neck and not at the tank itself.
I did it again recently on a GS1000 but I used electrolysis to remove the rust, here’s a link if you’re interested ua-cam.com/video/ZgnuCg8ANQI/v-deo.html
Hi Andy, ref the threads. Since I discovered Time-Serts I haven't looked back, way better than a helicoil for most jobs. I had to do one of the spark plug holes on one of my V-twins when I had it apart. It worked out so good I did the other head while I was at it. Have a look at Cross Tools in Newcastle: www.crosstools.com.au/ Excellent site for information too. (I'm not affiliated to them by the way, but they have helped me out of plenty of tricky spots over the years, and Aussie to boot).
Totally awesome videos Andy. I watched every one. I've done a couple of tank refurbs and would like to add a few things that worked for me.
1. Buy a plumbers plug for the tank opening. should have a wingnut.
2. Pick up some jb weld for plastic repairs. use it at the petcock opening.
3. Try something called Evapo rust. non toxic and works amazing.
4. Try Caswells tank sealer. it is quite durable.
5. If the tank is too big for the tub, simply elevate the tub on on side as necessary.
just my .02 cents. Take care☺
G'day Jim, wow thanks for the great comments. I have learned a lot along the journey from people just like you. This was my first tank de-rust and reline so it was always going to be sketchy. I know the plugs that you are talking about, that's a great idea. If I was to do it again I think I would do things differently. I would use electrolysis to remove the rust for a start. I am happy with the tank liner product I used, and it is holding up just fine, so no issues there. The sealer that I used for the petcock is also holding fast. But the biggest lesson for me was being naive enough to assume the tank would hold fuel prior to painting. Given the chance to do it again I would pressure test the tank and braze, weld, patch, do whatever I needed to do to seal it up before applying the liner and THEN apply paint. Andy
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions I used the JB weld to seal the bottom of the tank while derusting and sealing. it kept everything inside and was easy to remove when sealing was completed. I totally agree with you though, we learn by doing. Best regards and keep up the great videos, they're priceless.
nicely done, finding the fact you put everything in to your vids, even the bits that don't go quiet to plan entertaining. Great vid as always fella.
+GTs Garage Cheers mate, yes warts and all.
Hello Andy, nice job on all the video's of the XS! I have discovered them yesterday and have now caught up with your progress. I have been working with my father on his XS1100. After I had the bike's carbs checked and worked on by a "specialist" it worked for about 200 km's. This was supposed to be a gift from me to him. Then one of the carbs broke wile riding and as a result the cylinder attached to it started burning oil. I ended up on the side of the highway in clouds of smoke. That then was the end of the engine.
I can't wait until the moment that you are going to adjust your setting of your carburetors. I hope to learn how to do it myself. Since my adventure with the toasted engine, we have installed another engine which came of my fathers spare-bike. But I think the carbs need some work, so I will be waiting for your video's if they will be made.
I really like the fix for the carburetor which had the holder for the floater broken. We had a similar problem on one of the carburetors.
Keep up the nice work!
Hey KuDo, thanks for the feedback mate. Carb setup will be the next one. Hope to have it up next weekend
Hello Andy, that's good to know. I'm looking forward to it! Really appreciate the time and effort you are putting in to these video's. They don't do themselves
Hi andy, i was wondering that can i run regular fuel tap (no vacuum) on my XJ......originally it had vacuum fueltap but i really dont trust them, i wud rather have a simple fueltap whit on/off position......But if i do that does my carbs get enough fuel ? Good video :)
+TT GarageRat Of course you can mate. Carb manufacturers don't care how you get the fuel to the carbs. However they probably recommend to manufacturers that they fit a failsafe to prevent flooding and filling the sump with fuel when the bike is parked. My recommendation would be to ensure that you shut the taps off when ever you shut down the bike.
you been busy this last few days Andy, she's coming on a bundle :)
+yankee doodle Yes I have mate, clock is ticking. I want this thing finished and registered asap. I need to take it to the mainland for the first weekend in May and I need to sort through any issues, that will no doubt arise, and get it on a dyno to dial in the carb jetting.
Great video as always mate
+Brian Batten Thanks Brian.
Handy Andy, great tips yet again! When you put the Nuts n Bolts in the tank did you give it a vigorous shake before treating? Just wondering if that then released much corrosion? Cheers Tony. NB just picked up two XJ 's to start my own project!
+Tony Peters G'day Tony, I didn't have much loose stuff left but yes it does. If you have a fair bit of loose rust you will need more than I put it. If your tank is small enough you can wrap it in a towel and stuff it in a dryer and tumble it for a while, but this mahoosive thing ain't going to fit. You just need to be careful that you don't shake it in a manner that can cause the nuts and bolts to dent the tank. I've heard of people using pebbles, but I like nuts and bolts, they're magnetic and easier to retrieve.
Thanks Andy, I like tge tumble drier idea! But.... mught be more than my life is worth to try it if you know what I mean!!
Apparently an old chain works well, thanks Christian for the tip
And don't use stainless nuts and bolts - they aren't magnetic LOL
so, I picked up a 1979 xs1100. the vacuum advance isnt hooked up to anything. has the airbox configuration too, havent seen much as for the oil seperator or the vent line (I think) from the carbs if you switch to pods, only thing I've been able to find it just upping the jets..... so first is if I dont have the vacuum diaphragm where should hook the vacuum advance? or am I just confused with it
+OMAR DINUNZIO Hi Omar, the vacuum advance hose should run from the vacuum advance diaphragm behind the left hand side crankcase cover to a brass tube on the number two carburetor. As for the oil separator I just ran a hose to a small pod type filter. You could just route it up the frame and cable tie it in place somewhere, doesn't need to plug into anything but it is wise to plug it into a filter of some type to prevent dirt ingress. If you are running pod filters just remove the carburetor bowl vent hoses at the tees. I have been told that any hose at all on the vents will add yet another problem when trying to run pods on CV carbs.
+Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions best to keep the current carbs stock with the airbox? and if I wanted to switch to pods, I would update to a new carb set?
It depends on what you want to end up with, and how much you're prepared to spend. The CV carbs will always work better in a shared airbox. If you can fit the pods to the factory velocity stacks it is supposed to be pretty good. XJ1200 carbs are supposed to be a good upgrade but I ultimately fitted Mikuni flat slides but they come at a cost. All the vents are nothing to worry about, it's just a crankcase breather and a couple of carb vents. They don't need to return to the airbox.
sorry if i missed it in one of the videos but did you do one where you cut, fit and weld on the new cover for the tank after cutting out the old fuel cap? i'm gonna have to do the same thing to my xs1100
No there is no video. I have another tank to prepare and I think this time I will weld a plate over the filler neck and weld the vent hole in the neck and then plate over the whole thing. That way I only need it to seal at the filler neck and not at the tank itself.
Hi Andy, how's the tank liner holding up? Is there any petrol leaks?
G'day Barry, still holding up mate.
Is it still holding up?
How did that work out lining the gas tank
G'day mate, two and a half years later and it still doesn't leak.
I may have to do mine looks just like yours same color combos really like the video s thanks
I did it again recently on a GS1000 but I used electrolysis to remove the rust, here’s a link if you’re interested ua-cam.com/video/ZgnuCg8ANQI/v-deo.html
Hi Andy, ref the threads. Since I discovered Time-Serts I haven't looked back, way better than a helicoil for most jobs. I had to do one of the spark plug holes on one of my V-twins when I had it apart. It worked out so good I did the other head while I was at it. Have a look at Cross Tools in Newcastle: www.crosstools.com.au/ Excellent site for information too. (I'm not affiliated to them by the way, but they have helped me out of plenty of tricky spots over the years, and Aussie to boot).
Yes I've seen them. Another good one are keyserts ua-cam.com/video/UTdJUMIcrPI/v-deo.html