Changing the blade and setting up my bandsaw | LOCKDOWN Day 69 (hehe)
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
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#woodworking #lockdown #bandsaw
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DITO... His instructional video is my go to reference video. Many things I learned from him which were not at all what I assumed. Such as " NOT" centering the blade on the wheel.
Just wanted to say thank you. You gave me the confidence to give woodworking a try and I've been loving it ever since. Don't change.
Oh, fer cryin' in a bucket, Steve!* Use a wrench to tighten those bolts. I'm sure you have one the right size. Your pliers are going to chew up the heads.
*One of my Dad's sayings. Except he always said, "Oh, fer cryin' in a bucket, Bruce!"
It seems to be a UA-cam thing. Most of the DIY channels I follow on UA-cam they are always using pliers on hex bolts and nuts. I find it very strange, but then I started working on cars long before I got into woodworking (long before I could vote), so I've always had complete metric and SAE wrench sets. In the alternative universe of people who've never worked on cars, maybe they don't have wrenches.
Or maybe these UA-cam guys are just trolling us.
this is why I have a couple of mini adjustable wrenches, for when I'm too lazy to look for the right size socket
@@washoecreative595 Hell a crescent wrench works for that operation lol.
Not much chewing gonna happen if it is a once every 3 or 4 year thing...lol
@@toysoldier46552 Yeah...but a metric one or SAE? lol
Finally! Someone who can show me how to coil a bandsaw blade. Thank you!
This was very helpful! I have this same bandsaw & am happy to see that I installed & tuned the blade correctly. I've also been putting off swapping out the blade so this was a great refresher. Also wanted to take the opportunity to thank you for getting me into wood working. You've made it all so attainable.
Wait a minute... you're supposed to take the table off to change the blade?
I take the blade off and turn it sideways to get it through the gap. Means you don't have to adjust the level on the table
hmmm i was questioning this as well. think it can stay.
I have never taken of the table, and i have that exact saw!?!
Oh Steve was just showing off :)
Perhaps being a mere mortal requires taking off the table? I as a (I guess?) band saw god can leave the table on...:)
animationcreations42 , yes your 100 % right on that
This was extremely helpful! I bought an old Jet bandsaw for my startup Woodturning business and I have been so intimidated about the prospect of changing the blade. Up until today. This was so informative and your easy-going explanation took my initial “fear of the unknown” away. Thank you Steve!
Hey Steve, I have watched many many examples on how to coil band saw blades! You showed us all the simplest (and successful) way to coil these pesky buggers... Thanks MATE ! and I didn't even cut my bare hands, blood free...
Steve, its amazing to see the level of details you go in pretty much everything. Even if you are changing the blades after that many yrs, you provided details that i couldn't find from other UA-cam videos that ameturs like me need 🙂. As always, I love watching all your videos.
i am 73 now, but feel like a young lad learning to be a toolmaker in the aircraft industry way back in the 60's, the reason is because you talk in feet & inches, (imperial measurement) sadly all gone now after my country joined the EU and were made to change to metric. still enjoy watching your vids.
When I change the blade on my bandsaw I use clothes pegs to keep the loose blade on the bottom wheel while I maneuver the blade onto the top wheel, works every time..
Funny... I had to Google 'clothes peg' to be sure what you were referring to. Growing up in the US I've always known them as 'clothes pins'. Interestingly, in Film and TV production they're commonly refrred to as as 'C47s' or 'bullets' .
I use a spring clamp
This is a very needed video. And when you are adjusting those bend guards, and bearings, you can stick a piece of paper between blade and guard, put guards next to the blade, secure them and then take out that paper, so you will get a tiny gap in the thickness of the paper.
Been using band saws since I was 16 - I'm 51 now. I've never, and I mean never, had to remove a band saw table to change a blade. If removing the table was built in to the design then those who engineered your saw need to go back to school. I was glad to see that you are using a blade from an American company. I've used Starrett products nearly as long as I've used band saws. Great company, great products.
Just got a bandsaw a few weeks ago, can definitely say the blades make all the difference. Upgraded the basic one it came with to a new Axminster blade for a larger one 1/2inch for splitting boards a be a small one 8th for doing the curves.
Also take note of the tpi as the lower the tooth count the more dust it will shift out the way, good for when your cutting hardwoods.
Also goes without saying but dust mask these things make very fine dust!
Bandsaw was next on my shop list and this video answered a lot of my questions.
Like you I don't use a bandsaw much but have owned one for over 15 years. I didn't realise I could/should remove the table when changing blades. What you did is so much less fiddly than my procedure!
Hey this is Kyle. This video helped me so much!!! I bought a bandsaw months ago and it’s still in the box because I got so nervous about setting it up correctly! I think now I have a good enough grasp on it to try and set it up this week!
I have the same band saw and have changed the blade several times, depending on the type of cuts. However, I never thought to remove the table! This is going to save me so much time! Thanks so much!
I'm getting ready to add a bandsaw to my shop soon, so this was extremely helpful!
You forgot about the hurdle update, show us the kitties!
search for "Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass
". that helped me out.
He does the best band saw video. Really helped a lot and I no longer have drift in my band saw
THIS
Alex’s video is THE source for bandsaw set up instructions on the Internet.
I follow Alex Snodgrass' method of setting up my bandsaw as well. There are two videos, one from a seminar, and one on The Wood Whisperer's channel - both are helpful.
I have watched his video from the back of the roadshow demo a dozen times, but this is the first time I watched the one on The Wood Whisperer's channel. Alex is an incredible instructor, with easy to follow directions. True cut every time.
For the best info on band saws, Alex Snodgrass is the expert. He has several videos that are easy to find. He recommends centering the base of the gullets on the wheel when setting the tracking. Also, the thrust bearing should not be touching the blade when not cutting. Touching generates heat, and doesn't let the blade cool down between cuts. Band saws are a wonderful tool, and bandsaw boxes are a lot of fun. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's video.
I appreciate this! I have a small bandsaw (not completely useless, but pretty close). However, I've had a really bad time changing the blade. I figured I was doing something wrong, but I see that I just need to have more patience for the procedure. Thank you!
I subscribed many years ago and still like your channel very much. Take care! 🇩🇪
It was very helpful! Thank you for the simple and good info. I have an old Rockwell and this was a perfect demo. Thank you again.
I liked your video and it reminds me I have a new blade in the box still waiting to be installed. The best video I've ever seen on adjusting band saws is "Alex Snodgrass from Carter Tools demonstrates how to adjust your Band Saw for optimal performance"
Just followed you video and adjusted my cheapo bandsaw, massive difference. Thanks for the tips and the channel content in general, much appreciated over here in Manchester, England.
Steve! This was the most incredibly useful video! I need more of these. I have these tools in my garage that I am using but i bet they would work so much better and my work would look so much nicer if i knew how to set them up properly and which blades are better for what jobs or type of wood. I can see this dramatically improving my bandsaw projects!
Well that was timely. I have THAT bandsaw, bought from HF. It has been parked in the corner of my shop for a while, as it has basically stopped cutting. I kept thinking it was a case of poor judgment on my part to buy it, so I was thinking of spending a lot more money on a new one. Then I had the bright idea that it might need a new blade. Couple days ago I put on my mask and went to a big box store and bought a thick blade for resawing and a thin one for curves. The blades are still in the box but I will be changing soon. Now I can look at your video and see my saw, then get that blade changed. Thanks.
I haven't touched a bandsaw so this was really interesting! And helpful for when I do eventually get one. Thanks Steve!
Coincodently I acquired an almost identical bandsaw just today. My first bandsaw! Very helpful thanks.
According to 3 different sources I've seen, you should have a relatively narrow blade for cutting curves and a separate, wider one for resawing that never gets used for anything else. Apparently, cutting curves wears the teeth unevenly, so they don't track straight when resawing. Thanks for the video and thumbs up to crush a troll.
Also a lower amount of teeth per inch for the resawing blades
It's the same with jig saws, you can only make small curves with narrow blades. Having a wide blade prevents you from turning. It's not only the set of the teeth but the blade itself is straight and can only be bent to a very little amount so in order to cut curves the blade should be pretty narrow. Also the set of your teeth is important because having a perfectly non set blade you would not be able to turn it inside a cut.
If you aim for straight long cuts (resawing boards) you can use narrow blades as well but in most cases they have very little teeth which don't transport the saw dust out of the cut very well. Secondly wide blades provide better stability for a straight cut as the blade itself is bending less likely and will stay straight as you cut.
@@ynnuswatchingyou Mostly you're right. The narrower (from tooth to back) the blade is, the tighter curve you can make, because the blade isn't as prone to get in its own way.
My main point is to not cut any curves with a blade you're going to use to resaw, regardless of its width or tooth count. When you cut a curve, the teeth wear differently from one side to the other and that blade doesn't automatically track straight afterwards. You can still follow a more or less straight line by constantly adjusting it, but if you never cut curves with a new or properly sharpened blade and feed it into the line of the blade, it will track straight on its own.
I only learned this within the last 6 months, and the first source was a blade supplier/manufacturer. I'm not an expert, I'm just passing along a tip.
While I don't have a bandsaw this was really helpful because it explained how a bandsaw works and maybe why I might want to get one in the future.
My favorite bandsaw setup video was the Alex Snodgrass demo he did at some show years ago -- that video is now almost 10 years old and has almost a million views. The method he shows is incredible in how simple it is but how amazingly effective. The one issue with the video is that it is a bit rambling, due to the demo nature of it. So I was very happy that a few years ago, The Wood Whisperer had Alex on to give his setup talk but in a very straightforward manner. I now consider THAT video the canonical "bandsaw setup" video!
No links because you know why. Search for "band saw clinic with alex snodgrass" and "the best way to setup a bandsaw", respectively.
The guide blocks are pretty much only needed when cutting curves. When sawing straight you only need the bearings at the back to prevent pushing the blade too far off center. The guide blocks at the sides provide stability when turning the lumber and cutting curves. Some people like them more loosely guiding, other prefere them rubbing on the blade a little bit. This also is linked to your blade tension - having lots of tension will keep the blade straight event with loose guide blocks. You have to experiment to see what's suitable for you and your cut.
The coiling/uncoiling is the hardest part-the blades love to spring open. How’s Bubbles doing with her hurdle?
Thanks Steve. I teach middle school Engineering and have 2 bandsaws in my woodshop. I have no idea how lon the blades have been on and one saw is even in dire need of tuning. Now to find the time!!
Great video! Really enjoyed it, maybe you could do one about changing the belts on a drill press and changing the speeds?
Thanks.
Dom Watkins , yeah I would definitely like that video too Steve, good shout Dom
I'm glad to see this video. I've got a somewhat neglected bandsaw in my basement that I need to do some maintenance on, lube, new blade, etc...
The way your upper wheel was spinning freely when you had the blade off made it look like there might be a heavy spot on one side. I'm restoring a 1948 Delta Milwaukee bandsaw and wheel balancing is an issue I'm dealing with right now. That, and bearings and belts and blades and basically everything else.
Good luck with the restoration! Sounds like a cool project. :)
I did chuckle watching you fold up the blade wrong but you made me smile
I do agree, anything smaller than a 14" bandsaw is a waste of money
Steve I have used a bandsaw for years and changed the blades often and never removed the table. It looks like it’s a lot easier to adjust the blade with table out of the way. I will give it a try. Also I don’t seem to need to adjust tracking in between blade changes. I always adjust the tension with the gage on the back. Thanks for your great content!
Once you get the feel of it, it's much easier to coil the blade by holding your hands palm up at waist height. With the blade (teeth up) in both hands with about 18" of blade between your hands, bend your elbows so the blade is straight up. In one smooth motion, (focus on the outermost part of the blade) straighten your arms and at the same time twist the blade (in both hands) inward. If you do this motion smoothly and quickly the blade will coil up perfectly
Steve, your stamina VS feds ability to keep the stock market afloat........I think you'll win~! ;) Run for president~!!!!!!
Thanks. Very timely. Ordered new blades a few weeks ago after trying to cut a metal rod and ruining the blade that came with the bandsaw. Live and learn, I guess;-)
Video was very useful. I inherited a band saw from my grandfather and it came with a thin blade that I have never taken the time to install. Little project for tomorrow.
Hey Steve I just got this bandsaw and was looking for this exact video. I noticed at the end you said you didn’t mean for it to be just about the blade and hoped it was helpful to someone. Well it definitely was helpful so thank you for that. Never owned a bandsaw so thought this one would be a good one to learn from.
I have a Grizzly G0803 9 inch bench top band saw. I do wish I bought a 14 inch like your but it does what I want it to do. When I first got it I had to square and adjust how it cuts. It came with a 1/4 X 60 inch blade. I found that the 1/4 inch blade would drift a lot and bought a 3/8 X 60 blade. It ran and cut much better with the wider blade. It was what I could afford at the time.
Tips & Tricks:
Use a featherboard when resawing.
Only have the guard as high as you need to get the board under it.
Check for square frequently & be sure to adjust your fence each time you change/adjust your blade to be sure it still tracks.
As always your instructional technique is fantastic. You are right about the smaller band saws. I have a 9" table top models and I find it's very limited in what can be done with it. The working height is only about 3 1/2", which making something like a band saw box pretty hard.
I use my bandsaw all the time, to the point I actually have two of them. I have a 14 inch for curves and bandsaw boxes, and I have a 18 inch strictly for resawing and veneer making. I use a 1 inch carbide blade on the 18 inch, an a variety of smaller blades on the 14 inch. Carter makes the beat bearings. Laguna makes the best bandsaws in the market right now.
Great tips and looking sharp, Steve! We love you brother.
"You can do just about anything with a 14-inch bandsaw."
Except cut to the center of a 30 inch circle! LOL great video Steve!
As a meat cutter I change blades often. The easiest way to coil it is to step on the blade like you did but by holding it with both hands palms facing forward you simply cross your arms to end up with your palms facing toward you and then step off the blade it will softly coil up.
Perfect timing....my next job in my new workshop (garage!) was to set up my bandsaw. Thanks for the tips!
This is so timely, Steve. I have a used bandsaw that I want to change the blade on and your video helped a lot!
Love all the videos. Please keep them up when we start to return to whatever normal will be.
Yes it is useful! I just bought my first used band saw, and I'll have to replace the blade and tune it. So perfect timing on posting this video! Thank you
Awesome Update And Overview Of Your Bandsaw ! I Have A 16 Inch 3 Wheel Delta Bandsaw That Takes An 82 Inch Blade !
I know the blades can be a challenge getting on . I use a little strip of blue painters tape on the blade over the top wheel to help hold it in place for a few seconds while I get it on the bottom and get a little tension on it then remove the tape and finish adjusting .
Great video ! Lots of useful info and a great teacher . Thank you
Matthias Wandel and Alex Snodgrass have some great videos on bandsaws too!
Matthias built a couple of bandsaws (wood and recovered parts) and explained the entire process from an engineering perspective. Really good stuff if you need those details. I appreciate both. Steve's walkthrough is good for beginners and just as a quick refresher while you're doing it for the first time in years. Thank you both!
10" saws are ok. I have a little Sears 6" it's only good for balsa wood or cardboard. Thin stuff. I do quite a lot on the 10".
I don't do a lot of working with band saws personally, but I have always found it easier to coil the blade by holding it in the center at both sides (the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position, and flex both sides of the blade inward to the center, until 2 loops form at the top and bottom. The loops should basically stack onto one another.
Thank you, Steve, now I understand the blocks and bearing make an X-Y control.
My blade broke today - after 10 months . UA-camd loads of videos . Now after putting on a new blade and doing a mini service its running quieter and obviously cuts better - thanks .
Thanks Steve again for your great videos!
Just a quick tip for folding the blade, if you push down on it first to make it more oval shaped and then twist it it will make for even coils.
Perfect timing. Just bought a bandsaw, albeit a 10", and have to replace the tires, so I'll be getting that blade off as well.
Hi Steve, I knnow the struggle of setting up the bandsaw! I love working on it, but oh man I hate setting it up haha. I actually don't have a tip haha. Day 70, lockdown bandsaw box, looking forward!
In the college surveying course I took 20 years ago, we had to learn how to coil really long steel measuring tapes called chains with a similar twisting trick. It was called "throwing chain".
Hi Steve. There is a company called Carter tools and they make bandsaws. One of their vids is a a tool shop and they demonstrate how to set up a bandsaw, it is worth a look. The wood whisperer uses this technique. Enjoy
I have one of those teeny 10 inch craftsman bandsaws.
I can do some re-sign with it but I have to have a very sharp blade and go really slow. The max I can do is 4 1/2 inches.
I live in a townhouse with a tiiiiny shop and I have every major tool except a benchtop planner, drum sander or large. I don’t have enough room for a big bandsaw. Wish I did though.
Shawn Graham on wortheffort woodworking just came out with a video on the bandsaw and how to tension one properly
Loving the hair mate, great informative video as always too. Stay safe buddy
Small blades are typically harder to get tracked due to putting too much tension on ur blade. Back of blade gullets need to be in center of wheel and use finger to put pressure on side of blade and when it deflects no more than 1/4” you are good to go. Remember to do all this with the guides bearings/blocks moved out of the way so the blade moves/adjusts without hitting them. Don’t forget to remove the tension off ur blade when done using. If not it will conform ur wheel skins to the blade and you don’t want that. Sucks when you don’t have a detentioner handle but work with what you got.
I didn’t know anything about bandsaws so this was nice. Thanks!
If you do any sort of woodworking it's a great tool to have. I use mine all the time.
Firstly I wouldn't have expected the (hehe) from you 😄
Secondly, I'm glad you are doing a band saw box. I've been meaning to give it a go for a while now so I'm hoping your next video will inspire me...
hey Steve, The inches of a band saw refer to the diameter of the wheel, so the actual throat or cutting capacity between the blade and the riser/frame is something less.
Also The main concern with a lot of tension is increased metal fatigue that will cause the blade to brake sooner than it might if properly tensioned.
The proper way to uncoil a bandsaw blade is to throw it at a squirrel.
Underated comment
This is helpful for me. I really need to change a bandsaw blade on my workshop
I did a bandsaw course with the supplier (Axminster Tools in the UK) back in January but hadn't used my new machine since - video was a great refresher - one thing though, very surprised that the guards didn't have switches to stop you running with them off/open (mine has micro-switches on the doors) - perhaps that's because it's the UK with different legal requirements?
I spent years in a machine shop and uncoiling the blade is the easiest part (we used some really beefy blades in metal shops). Take the ties off, throw it on the floor. Done.
Steve, I've been waiting all weekend for a video of bubbles doing jumps, can we get one tomorrow?
Very helpful, looking to buy one glad you mentioned getting a 14" one.
Hi Steve. If you’re in the market for a new bandsaw, check out the Rikon. It’s a little pricey, but it’s super easy to change blades (5 minutes) and make other adjustments.
It was helpful to somebody; thank you!
Wow, I remember when the bandsaw box was the epoxy river table of its day 😉
Great tips on the bandsaw I am looking forward to your next video
This was helpful, thank you. I’ve been wanting a band saw for awhile and now I know to look for a 14” version 👍
I was looking for a long time for this kind of video thank you
Eye protection is a good idea when coiling and uncoiling bandsaw blades. My high school shop teacher gouged his cornea changing out a blade. He's lucky he didn't spend the rest of his life wearing a jaunty eye patch.
Really interesting, Steve! Thanks a lot! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yes Steve. I have one of these "toy" bandsaws. You're right, you can't do much with it. But lack of space has dictated my choice. Hard to find replacement blades for a mini bandsaw.
Jo Michat maybe learn to weld your own. It’s a lot easier than you might think.
I find lowering the blades as I twist them helps them coil easier and I store my extra blades in old cookie canisters the delicious Danish butter cookie type
Steve, at 9:29, you really should unplug the bandsaw before touching the innards. I just bought a 3/16” blade for cutting bandsaw boxes, so I’m looking forward to seeing your project.
Nice tutorial. I'm looking forward to lessons on making a band saw box. I've been telling myself for years that I'd make some for my family. Maybe with your guidance, I will get serious and actually make a few. Stay safe.
Don't even own a bandsaw, but I'm bored. Glad I watched it, thanks Steve.
I actually only own a 9" band saw, you can do the same stuff that you can on the larger band saws but you must go slowly otherwise you end up with crooked cuts. I can resaw on it and it's generally big enough for most curved projects I run through a band saw. Let's face it, if the piece is bigger than a foot wide most of us resort to our jig saws anyways. For set up I tend to not over tighten my blades, they are welded so that weld can be a weak point even on bigger saws. I've used giant sized band saws that only are meant for doing resawing and I've used the smallest band saws, the set up is the same. Marc Spagnolo had the actual band saw guy on the wood whisperer a few years back so it may be worth looking at his instructions for setting up properly.
good advice --- taking the table off -helps to film this video so you could see the light.
I was glad to see how to use the band saw and change the blade, because I own a used band saw and wasn't sure how to use it change the blade, etc.