Just did this fix and it worked perfectly. it turned out in my case that the previous owner had stuck the wrong relay in the slot. I tried this before calling a mechanic, and I was very happy when it resolved my issue.
Great work and vid as always. My 94 has been doing the same thing but more when cold. Was told it might be the MAP sensor giving up. Having the ECU repaired as I watch this. Hopefully that’s it. Otherwise I’ll be trying this fix. Good to have that relay in my spares kit anyway.
Had the exact same thing on a '96 ACU which had been to a few shops before. Had pretty much the same readings you did. Swapped relays and voltage is now steady. Thanks!
Nice catch on seeing the ECU voltage feed fluctuating. Sometimes, it's the easiest things that can have you running all over the car to find the problem :)
My 1995 VW Eurovan will randomly shudder, or randomly shudder and die after driving a bit, and I get clicking sound right where the relays are as well as a CEL. I may have to try this. People also say do the ignition relay.
A faulty power supply relay will not cause a CEL to set. If you CEL stays on after the engine starts... scan for fault code(s). If you have a scan tool that can view live engine data... look at voltage supply.
Just had cam belt and tensioner changed on my aac engine..same thing is happening but intermittently. Idle goes way down almost to stalling point then fires back up to roughly normal idle when stationary, runs ok when driving. Timing has been double checked and vacuum lines checked by mechanic, he is as confused as me. Can this also be the same faulty relay? Funny how it’s happened after a belt change. Thanks for your videos they are a great source of inspiration.
@@EXOVCDS don’t apologise, your video was of great help. Replying to most questions about your many videos must take time and get confusing at times. I will know in a few days if you’ve given me the fix or not and I appreciate you putting in the time and effort to educate others.
Great video Thomas. I realized a 93 is getting no voltage to the idle control sensor on top of the intake... zeroed out.... found this vid in search of clues. I don't think the idle control unit has a fuse or relay...
Awesome video! It looks like I have the same issue... do you have the part # of this relay ? I have no shop/owners manual. Thanks in advance for your help...
Your video help me alot since there's no service station or mechanic. So basically DIY is the option. Please let me know the brand of ECU test tools like the OBD2, cabels, computer programs, etc. And where to buy online. My T4 2.5 petrol GL4 automatic 1998 badly need this tools. Thx
The best aftermarket tool is VCDS (used with a PC / Laptop), but it is a bit expensive. The next best thing (but I have never used it) is OBDEleven (used with a smartphone). VCDS® HEX-V2® Enthusiast: store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS and you will need: store.ross-tech.com/shop/af2x2/ OBDEleven: obdeleven.com/en/ Buy the Pro add-on (code that unlocks full feature). You will also need the 2x2 adapter: obdeleven.com/en/home/13-vag-2x2-adapter-0725423005141.html If your 1998 has the 16 pin OBD2 Port, then you don't need the 2x2 adapter.
what is the name of relay that you replaced. I have a 2003 eurovan here in USA and the rpm goes up and down when the car gets hot but does not die. Every time I bring it to a mechanic they can't find the problem coz no engine light comes out. It won't hurt to replace it I guess.
ECM power supply relay... in the service manual, for this older model, it's referred to as Digifant Control Unit relay. I don't know if the 2003 model has one / uses one... I'd have to check a wiring diagram.
I think the ECM for the T4 is 30??. There is a wiring diagram somewhere on the net to test the 30 relay. Easy enough to check but for the $fillers and time I would just replace it.
Hi there. Excellent video. You certainly know your stuff. I have the 2.5 PETROL AET eurovan.T4. Runs rough when it rains and slightly tappy most of the time after a recent timing belt and water pump change. Moved dizzy back and forth slightly with no difference. Changed dizzy cap and dizzy rotor, number 30 relay , changed blue and green sensors near spark plug 1 and spark plugs. ( bosch). Still tappy and still runs rough when it rains. Oil is full syn quality 10w 40. Next maybe spark plug leads or ignition coil Maybe?? NOT SURE on hall sensor? As far as the tapping goes maybe need to get it on vag com? . Uses slight coolant every 3_4 months ( just under minimum line. No sign of coolant in oil, no dripping from exhaust. Where's it going? 😭 So hard to find a good VW mechanic here in Brisbane , Australia. Any advice would be appreciated. Keep up the good work. 😉
"most of the time after a recent timing belt and water pump change"... recheck what was done (cam & crank timing mainly). Rough running when it rains / moisture in the air is usually a wiring issue (plug wires, coil). You could have a broken valve spring that is causing intermittent running issues: ua-cam.com/video/CUzdnvZwmKs/v-deo.html Long version: ua-cam.com/video/BY0sWcgI7dk/v-deo.html
Thanks Thomas. I have changed spark plugs. Ordered leads and coil today. Will report back. Omg I hope it's not a valve spring brake. Sounds expensive .. 😭 Is there an easy way for checking head gasket. ??
I am working on a 1992 Camper. Starts for five seconds and dies. I will try and track down a replacement relay just to be on the safe side. Fuel pressure is good, steady at 46-48 psi. I have a hall sender on order as I hade heard that it could cause this issue. I would really like to know what VAGcom I would have to buy to work on this application. If the new hall sender doesn’t fix my running issue I will check the voltage from the #3 relay. Where are you located, BC? Thanks for all your help.
Similar to this Van? ua-cam.com/video/5ZUon9XAwXw/v-deo.html If you find the problem, post the solution in my forum: www.tapatalk.com/groups/exovcds/viewtopic.php?p=4437 We've covered / checked several things, but nothing sticks out as being the cause. Contact Ross-Tech to find out which version & cable is best for you... don't forget to buy the 2x2 adapter! store.ross-tech.com/shop/af2x2/
Headlights are usually on 2 different fuses... if both lights go out, then you would have 2 bad fuses. Maybe someone wired the headlights wrong? Year, make, model? Post a video so that I can see what is happening.
Love the vids. I have a T4 2.5 tdi in France but i have been having oil pressure problems. Tried 3 sensors and got the correct in. checked the pickup strainer but seems fine. no major leaks, didn't change the oil filler cap can top end air pressure loss cause oil pressure loss? I've just put on a new filter and tried some 15-40 to see if it helps. One thing i noticed was the large threaded hollow tube that the oil filter screws onto was loose, this must have been forgotten when we removed the turbo oil pickup. could the thread not being tightened all the way in caused a loss of pressure? That piece that sits between the block and the filter still gets sandwiched in place and i think i had pressure issues before we fitted a new turbo. Could a blowing crank seal on the clutch end cause this and not notice the oil being burned up on the clutch? i have not lost oil, that i can notice. I searched around a bit and couldn't find answers. My rad fans never seem to come on so it did get quite hot a few times driving up high in the mountains while running late for events. I recently fitted all new water temp sensors so perhaps it will fix the fan issue but then there is the double relay box near the battery (on a Right Hand Drive). I saw a video where a guy overheated (a golf i think) and some internal plastic part melted and blocked the pickup. But i don;t think the T4 has this plastic part i couldn't see any debris. The other issue i have been having was a puff of black / grey smoke and sometimes a quick high rev on startup. I was told this is leaky injectors but then i read somewhere it could be to do with bad water temp sensors, which may force the choke mode when not needed. Had this van over 15 years and have to drive 600Km this weekend. Fingers crossed. lol PS. i think the reason you are forgetting things is from all the late nights you spend replying to comments. Thanks for being one of the only youtubers who actually take time to reply. Don't worry i won;t be upset if you have run out of motivation for replies. This vid is a few years old now. My idle is good though except for that sudden rev on startup sometimes.
Have you actually checked oil pressure with a gauge? Low oil pressure can cause the engine / hydraulic lifters to be noisy... are they? Loose pipe will not affect oil pressure, because once the oil cooler & oil filter are in place, the pipe is tight. Leaky injector sounds more logical than temperature sensor... or even a bit of oil from worn valve stem seals. If actual oil pressure is OK, then you have an electrical issue or the wrong / faulty oil pressure switch(es).
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the reply, i'm in the van now (2am) i just finished a 350km drive was beeping like crazy but it's acting strange. Was ok over 2.2k rpm sometimes i dropped it into neutral at speed to see if it would activate the alarm but often it only activated when i was also braking or turning. I am hoping it is a faulty oil level sensor. The only ones i didn't change were level and the one under the sump, i think it might be oil temp. last night i discovered my cooling fans have not been working due to a blown fuse (the small one No. 18 or close to that that supplies perm+ to the 3 pin temp sensor in the rad. My cooling fans have not been working for around 10 years i guess. I did cook it pretty good once when i was racing up a huge mountain in the swiss alps (to get to a wedding i was late to install equipment for). However engine sounds good. I almost bought a gauge. I used to have an oil pressure gauge in an old mini and it was great to actually see whats happening. It's a tricky one, it almost always feels like it's oil pressure as light goes off after 2200rpm but it doesn't always come on unless i'm doing bends and braking but not always. Don't have the computer interface so next i'll try the oil level sensor . Had this 20 year old 2.5tdi over 15 years and still going strong, even without cooling fans! I've had it all over Europe from the very North of Norway to south of Spain and i drive it hard, sometimes off road. lol
Hey Thomas, a few of the relays in my van (same as in this video, 95' ACU) are getting quite hot to the touch. Three in particular, fuel pump relay, ECM relay, and #38 which I believe is Engine Coolant Pump. They shouldn't be getting extremely hot right? #38 in particular is very, very hot even after just a short time idling. I have replacements on the way, but just wondering if this could be a by-product of something else going on maybe?
Old relays can have bad contacts... bad contacts = resistance, resistance creates heat. replacing relays is a good start (worst case, you will have spare relays if the new relays do the same). Checking the wires behind the relay / box that are part of the relay circuit, should also be done. To make sure that the heat is not going along any of those wires... that will point toward a load issue (whatever the relay is feeding power), possibly. I don't have any "normal" temperature values that I can give you (a google search might come up with some)... but if it feels overly hot, it's definitely worth investigating.
Thanks for the reply! I will pop in replacements and see if that solves things, and I'll fish around in the back and see if any of the wiring is getting particularly hot. Thanks again.
Not sure... I haven't had a TDI that had a hunting idle. I assume there are no fault codes? Monitor the data stream to see if you can spot anything amiss. Fluctuating coolant temperature, fuel temperature (if applicable), intake air temperature, MAF / MAP... monitor glow plug operation. Glow plugs turning ON & OFF can affect idle.
Thanks very much Thomas.... No fault codes showing, but there is a video on here showing an ACV that they adjusted the idle on (VCDS) and it solved the issue - so may try that... Cheers..!
I have the same problem with my vw t4 2002, runs lovely when cold but as soon as it heats up it's lumpy, so which relay should I test please, thank you
Not sure if the 2002 has the same relay. Check slot 3 (the one I replaced)... 3rd relay from the left, second row. If you have an empty space, then your van does not use the relay and it's something else.
"bold manual book"?? Where are you located? I would buy / download the Factory Service info from the VW erWin website. North American erWin site is $35 for 24 hour access (download as much as you want). The German erWin site is 7 Euro for 1 hour access (download as much as you want). All documents can be downloaded in English, as well as other languages. Either option is much cheaper than the Bentley Publisher books: www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-eurovan-92-99-repair-manual.html But sometimes a book is more convenient to use... I have both, the books and PDF files.
Thomas EXOVCDS I live in Bali Island, Indonesia. Thanks alot for your kindness. If there’s an email of you where I can send my video or photo and get an advised. If you don’t mind of course. FYI, I have time at home since the covid19 pandemic.
My email is: fkh161 @ fkh161 . ca No spaces. Send links to you UA-cam videos... you can upload as unlisted, so that only people with the link can see the video.
No need to change a fuse if it is not blown... if it is blown, then the ECM would not be able to run the engine. Use a scan tool to check for voltage supply (like I did in the video)... check for fault codes, clean the throttle body & perform a throttle body adaptation, check the fuel for water contamination, check the spark plugs etc
I am... watch these: (I'm bilingual... moved to Canada when I was 11 years old). ua-cam.com/video/d9DihQH_9_w/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/vxVutQVL5u4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/taP9Lg5xJC8/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS very good, vielen Grüße aus Köln! I can sort of understand the German, but I don't get every word in your accent. So the Tho in Thomas is the long 'oh' I'm guessing!
@@alexholmes6333 LOL... I could say the same about your accent from Köln! In German yes... but I introduce myself in the North American "Thomas" manner. When in Rome! 38 years in Canada... my Schwäbisch is pretty good still (I'd like to think).
@@EXOVCDS I'm British myself, so I don't really speak the accent, I imagine I'd understand more if I were a native speaker! And yes, your Schwäbisch sounds pretty authentic, at least to me!
Just did this fix and it worked perfectly. it turned out in my case that the previous owner had stuck the wrong relay in the slot. I tried this before calling a mechanic, and I was very happy when it resolved my issue.
Thank you for watching!
Great work and vid as always. My 94 has been doing the same thing but more when cold. Was told it might be the MAP sensor giving up. Having the ECU repaired as I watch this. Hopefully that’s it. Otherwise I’ll be trying this fix. Good to have that relay in my spares kit anyway.
Had the exact same thing on a '96 ACU which had been to a few shops before. Had pretty much the same readings you did. Swapped relays and voltage is now steady. Thanks!
Good to hear that it solved your issue... thank you for watching!
Nice screen capture on this one. That's quite a swing on the voltage, down to 7vdc. Hard to believe it ran at all! Nice fix. Thanks.
I hate to tell you the memory loss only gets worse the older you get 😞. Good work !!
It's rare to find a car without ac... that threw me (I think).
I installed several dozen of those Bosch relays in dual fuel Natural Gas conversions years ago. Whenever there was a problem i knew where to look.
I'm amazed how long these relays last... or how few relay problems we actually run into (compared to how many there are in a car).
Nice catch on seeing the ECU voltage feed fluctuating. Sometimes, it's the easiest things that can have you running all over the car to find the problem :)
Excellent. I'd have spent a couple of days looking for a vacuum leak before I spotted the voltage problem on VCDS. Note to self for next time.
Like scannerdanner... it's good to use the scanner first, to see if something pops-out.
Excellent video. you explained it perfectly. I never would have guessed a relay.
Sometimes you can hear them buzzing... which will make you question it, even without scan tool.
Well done Thomas. 👍👍
Thank you for posting this, it fixed the same problem I had in my’93 weekender utube rules👍
Thank you for watching!
Nicely done, always good to rummage through the spare relay box.
We keep fewer used parts on hand these days... or have been using them all up. It can help speed up diagnosis (my guess work)! =)
Man that's some nice work. I liked the explanations too. It helps me understand what's going on.
Thanks... after editing, I always get the impression that the video seems rushed (not gone into enough detail).
Pabst Blue Riddon!
My 1995 VW Eurovan will randomly shudder, or randomly shudder and die after driving a bit, and I get clicking sound right where the relays are as well as a CEL. I may have to try this. People also say do the ignition relay.
A faulty power supply relay will not cause a CEL to set. If you CEL stays on after the engine starts... scan for fault code(s). If you have a scan tool that can view live engine data... look at voltage supply.
Nice diagnosis & quick fix!
It's nice when you run into stuff that you've seen before... makes for a quicker fix!
Nice work! Respect! Clean and quick.
Thank you and thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Just had cam belt and tensioner changed on my aac engine..same thing is happening but intermittently. Idle goes way down almost to stalling point then fires back up to roughly normal idle when stationary, runs ok when driving. Timing has been double checked and vacuum lines checked by mechanic, he is as confused as me. Can this also be the same faulty relay? Funny how it’s happened after a belt change. Thanks for your videos they are a great source of inspiration.
If it was fine before belt change... something isn't right / things need to be checked again.
@@EXOVCDS I will change the relay ( from a vw parts supplier oem), anyway..costs less than a pint, then go from there once again
Sorry, I didn't pay attention to video title. Yes, low voltage to the ecm because of a faulty relay can cause running issues.
@@EXOVCDS don’t apologise, your video was of great help. Replying to most questions about your many videos must take time and get confusing at times. I will know in a few days if you’ve given me the fix or not and I appreciate you putting in the time and effort to educate others.
@@simonstork9404 thank you. Keep me posted.
You're not an electrician, (as you said)but you said it all !!!!
Thank you.
Great video Thomas. I realized a 93 is getting no voltage to the idle control sensor on top of the intake... zeroed out.... found this vid in search of clues. I don't think the idle control unit has a fuse or relay...
Fuse 14 or 15. If the fuse blows again, disconnect the power steering pressure switch (it's close to the oil filter).
@@EXOVCDS thank you Thomas. All the best. Headed over to your site for donation.
It did pop 15. The plastic where the fuse goes is melted... so got hot!
Keeps popping it ill disconnect the pressure switch. Also the 3rd brake light is constantly on.
Just sent two donations hopefully you see them both. Thanks Thomas. Appreciate you.
Great job and valuable video as well. Thanks
What block number did you measure the ECU voltage on? Couldn't make it out in the vid.
Simply go up the block values one by one until you see battery voltage... or select 002 as seen in the video.
Awesome video! It looks like I have the same issue... do you have the part # of this relay ? I have no shop/owners manual. Thanks in advance for your help...
Part number should be on relay.
Incredible. Thank you!!!
Thank you for watching!
Your video help me alot since there's no service station or mechanic. So basically DIY is the option. Please let me know the brand of ECU test tools like the OBD2, cabels, computer programs, etc. And where to buy online. My T4 2.5 petrol GL4 automatic 1998 badly need this tools. Thx
The best aftermarket tool is VCDS (used with a PC / Laptop), but it is a bit expensive. The next best thing (but I have never used it) is OBDEleven (used with a smartphone).
VCDS® HEX-V2® Enthusiast:
store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS
and you will need:
store.ross-tech.com/shop/af2x2/
OBDEleven:
obdeleven.com/en/
Buy the Pro add-on (code that unlocks full feature).
You will also need the 2x2 adapter:
obdeleven.com/en/home/13-vag-2x2-adapter-0725423005141.html
If your 1998 has the 16 pin OBD2 Port, then you don't need the 2x2 adapter.
what is the name of relay that you replaced. I have a 2003 eurovan here in USA and the rpm goes up and down when the car gets hot but does not die. Every time I bring it to a mechanic they can't find the problem coz no engine light comes out. It won't hurt to replace it I guess.
ECM power supply relay... in the service manual, for this older model, it's referred to as Digifant Control Unit relay. I don't know if the 2003 model has one / uses one... I'd have to check a wiring diagram.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for that fast reply.
I think the ECM for the T4 is 30??. There is a wiring diagram somewhere on the net to test the 30 relay. Easy enough to check but for the $fillers and time I would just replace it.
Hi there. Excellent video. You certainly know your stuff. I have the 2.5 PETROL AET eurovan.T4. Runs rough when it rains and slightly tappy most of the time after a recent timing belt and water pump change.
Moved dizzy back and forth slightly with no difference. Changed dizzy cap and dizzy rotor, number 30 relay , changed blue and green sensors near spark plug 1 and spark plugs. ( bosch).
Still tappy and still runs rough when it rains. Oil is full syn quality 10w 40.
Next maybe spark plug leads or ignition coil Maybe?? NOT SURE on hall sensor?
As far as the tapping goes maybe need to get it on vag com? .
Uses slight coolant every 3_4 months ( just under minimum line. No sign of coolant in oil, no dripping from exhaust. Where's it going? 😭
So hard to find a good VW mechanic here in Brisbane , Australia.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Keep up the good work. 😉
"most of the time after a recent timing belt and water pump change"... recheck what was done (cam & crank timing mainly).
Rough running when it rains / moisture in the air is usually a wiring issue (plug wires, coil).
You could have a broken valve spring that is causing intermittent running issues:
ua-cam.com/video/CUzdnvZwmKs/v-deo.html
Long version:
ua-cam.com/video/BY0sWcgI7dk/v-deo.html
Head gasket could be an issue... compare the spark plugs. Clean spark plugs can point to head gasket failure.
Thanks Thomas. I have changed spark plugs. Ordered leads and coil today. Will report back. Omg I hope it's not a valve spring brake. Sounds expensive .. 😭
Is there an easy way for checking head gasket. ??
Gavin Fisher Compare color of spark plugs. Cylinder head does not have to come off to change valve spring.
Ive got the same issue when it rains. Stalled out at a light and almost seemed like a fuel issue then it went away. 93 mv 2.5 5peed
I've come across this problem before with relays and in my case bad contacts and the coil Rusty
I'm amazed I don't see this more often... not just ECM relays, any & all relays!
I am working on a 1992 Camper. Starts for five seconds and dies. I will try and track down a replacement relay just to be on the safe side. Fuel pressure is good, steady at 46-48 psi. I have a hall sender on order as I hade heard that it could cause this issue. I would really like to know what VAGcom I would have to buy to work on this application. If the new hall sender doesn’t fix my running issue I will check the voltage from the #3 relay.
Where are you located, BC? Thanks for all your help.
Similar to this Van? ua-cam.com/video/5ZUon9XAwXw/v-deo.html
If you find the problem, post the solution in my forum:
www.tapatalk.com/groups/exovcds/viewtopic.php?p=4437
We've covered / checked several things, but nothing sticks out as being the cause.
Contact Ross-Tech to find out which version & cable is best for you... don't forget to buy the 2x2 adapter!
store.ross-tech.com/shop/af2x2/
Nice job.
Thank you!
Heya, missed this one. Sorry! Very fast you are in this. Your using" the Volkswagen bible" ;-)
And as you could tell... I needed it! I forget too much!
What could cause a fuse cut when ever I switch on my head lamp? . That's, my fuse will cut each time I put on my head light
Headlights are usually on 2 different fuses... if both lights go out, then you would have 2 bad fuses. Maybe someone wired the headlights wrong? Year, make, model? Post a video so that I can see what is happening.
Same relay for Diesels also ? It's a NO or a NC ? Maybe a pic of the relay with number of legs and schematics on the side ? Thanks in advance.
Diesel relay I think is a 109 relay with 1 less pin. Normally open... I'll check if I still have it.
We had another Eurovan / TA with a power supply relay issue. Here's the relay:
fkh161.ca/VW/VWT4ECMrelay.jpg
Love the vids. I have a T4 2.5 tdi in France but i have been having oil pressure problems. Tried 3 sensors and got the correct in. checked the pickup strainer but seems fine. no major leaks, didn't change the oil filler cap can top end air pressure loss cause oil pressure loss? I've just put on a new filter and tried some 15-40 to see if it helps. One thing i noticed was the large threaded hollow tube that the oil filter screws onto was loose, this must have been forgotten when we removed the turbo oil pickup. could the thread not being tightened all the way in caused a loss of pressure?
That piece that sits between the block and the filter still gets sandwiched in place and i think i had pressure issues before we fitted a new turbo. Could a blowing crank seal on the clutch end cause this and not notice the oil being burned up on the clutch? i have not lost oil, that i can notice.
I searched around a bit and couldn't find answers. My rad fans never seem to come on so it did get quite hot a few times driving up high in the mountains while running late for events.
I recently fitted all new water temp sensors so perhaps it will fix the fan issue but then there is the double relay box near the battery (on a Right Hand Drive).
I saw a video where a guy overheated (a golf i think) and some internal plastic part melted and blocked the pickup.
But i don;t think the T4 has this plastic part i couldn't see any debris.
The other issue i have been having was a puff of black / grey smoke and sometimes a quick high rev on startup.
I was told this is leaky injectors but then i read somewhere it could be to do with bad water temp sensors, which may force the choke mode when not needed.
Had this van over 15 years and have to drive 600Km this weekend. Fingers crossed. lol
PS. i think the reason you are forgetting things is from all the late nights you spend replying to comments.
Thanks for being one of the only youtubers who actually take time to reply. Don't worry i won;t be upset if you have run out of motivation for replies. This vid is a few years old now. My idle is good though except for that sudden rev on startup sometimes.
Have you actually checked oil pressure with a gauge? Low oil pressure can cause the engine / hydraulic lifters to be noisy... are they? Loose pipe will not affect oil pressure, because once the oil cooler & oil filter are in place, the pipe is tight. Leaky injector sounds more logical than temperature sensor... or even a bit of oil from worn valve stem seals. If actual oil pressure is OK, then you have an electrical issue or the wrong / faulty oil pressure switch(es).
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the reply, i'm in the van now (2am) i just finished a 350km drive was beeping like crazy but it's acting strange. Was ok over 2.2k rpm sometimes i dropped it into neutral at speed to see if it would activate the alarm but often it only activated when i was also braking or turning. I am hoping it is a faulty oil level sensor. The only ones i didn't change were level and the one under the sump, i think it might be oil temp.
last night i discovered my cooling fans have not been working due to a blown fuse (the small one No. 18 or close to that that supplies perm+ to the 3 pin temp sensor in the rad. My cooling fans have not been working for around 10 years i guess. I did cook it pretty good once when i was racing up a huge mountain in the swiss alps (to get to a wedding i was late to install equipment for).
However engine sounds good. I almost bought a gauge. I used to have an oil pressure gauge in an old mini and it was great to actually see whats happening.
It's a tricky one, it almost always feels like it's oil pressure as light goes off after 2200rpm but it doesn't always come on unless i'm doing bends and braking but not always. Don't have the computer interface so next i'll try the oil level sensor .
Had this 20 year old 2.5tdi over 15 years and still going strong, even without cooling fans! I've had it all over Europe from the very North of Norway to south of Spain and i drive it hard, sometimes off road. lol
Thanks!
Thank you. Much appreciated. Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers!
great video! Do you happen to know the part number for the relay?
Usually it is stamped on the relay... have you looked?
Did you find the number?
Hey Thomas, a few of the relays in my van (same as in this video, 95' ACU) are getting quite hot to the touch. Three in particular, fuel pump relay, ECM relay, and #38 which I believe is Engine Coolant Pump. They shouldn't be getting extremely hot right? #38 in particular is very, very hot even after just a short time idling. I have replacements on the way, but just wondering if this could be a by-product of something else going on maybe?
Old relays can have bad contacts... bad contacts = resistance, resistance creates heat. replacing relays is a good start (worst case, you will have spare relays if the new relays do the same). Checking the wires behind the relay / box that are part of the relay circuit, should also be done. To make sure that the heat is not going along any of those wires... that will point toward a load issue (whatever the relay is feeding power), possibly. I don't have any "normal" temperature values that I can give you (a google search might come up with some)... but if it feels overly hot, it's definitely worth investigating.
Thanks for the reply! I will pop in replacements and see if that solves things, and I'll fish around in the back and see if any of the wiring is getting particularly hot. Thanks again.
Very nice!
Thanks!
My 93' Eurovan MV runs very rough at idle too, seems after warming up or driving it for a while.
Maybe this is the solution?
Could be many things.
My '99 T4 2.5TDI 102 auto is doing the same thing, but settles down in gear, but sunts in Park or Neutral.... Any ideas?
Not sure... I haven't had a TDI that had a hunting idle. I assume there are no fault codes? Monitor the data stream to see if you can spot anything amiss. Fluctuating coolant temperature, fuel temperature (if applicable), intake air temperature, MAF / MAP... monitor glow plug operation. Glow plugs turning ON & OFF can affect idle.
Thanks very much Thomas.... No fault codes showing, but there is a video on here showing an ACV that they adjusted the idle on (VCDS) and it solved the issue - so may try that... Cheers..!
I have a 1999 rialta which is on a eurovan chassis with same problem. Anyone no where the ecu voltage relay is located on my model?
I would expect it to be in the same location if it's a Eurovan based vehicle.
I have the same problem with my vw t4 2002, runs lovely when cold but as soon as it heats up it's lumpy, so which relay should I test please, thank you
Not sure if the 2002 has the same relay. Check slot 3 (the one I replaced)... 3rd relay from the left, second row. If you have an empty space, then your van does not use the relay and it's something else.
Thanks very much I will check that, thanks for the videos and your reply, very much appreciated 👍
Oh and the bold manual book also, where to buy it. Thanks alot.
"bold manual book"??
Where are you located? I would buy / download the Factory Service info from the VW erWin website. North American erWin site is $35 for 24 hour access (download as much as you want). The German erWin site is 7 Euro for 1 hour access (download as much as you want). All documents can be downloaded in English, as well as other languages. Either option is much cheaper than the Bentley Publisher books:
www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-eurovan-92-99-repair-manual.html
But sometimes a book is more convenient to use... I have both, the books and PDF files.
Thomas EXOVCDS I live in Bali Island, Indonesia. Thanks alot for your kindness. If there’s an email of you where I can send my video or photo and get an advised. If you don’t mind of course. FYI, I have time at home since the covid19 pandemic.
Thomas EXOVCDS my engine code is AEU001338
And body code is WV2ZZZ70ZWJ15318
My email is:
fkh161 @ fkh161 . ca
No spaces. Send links to you UA-cam videos... you can upload as unlisted, so that only people with the link can see the video.
Do you have a video on doing a clutch master cylinder on a b5 a4 1.8t ? Thanks
No... sorry, not yet.
Where would this relay be on the 2002 VR6 eurovan?
It does not have one / use one.
@@EXOVCDS I'm having the exact symptoms in one of our 2002 Eurovans, I'm told there is a 15 amp fuse for the PCM should I try changing it out?
No need to change a fuse if it is not blown... if it is blown, then the ECM would not be able to run the engine. Use a scan tool to check for voltage supply (like I did in the video)... check for fault codes, clean the throttle body & perform a throttle body adaptation, check the fuel for water contamination, check the spark plugs etc
mister thomas i call you from europe romania please tell me the firing order to acu engine
1-2-4-5-3
learned something new :D
ECM voltage supply is important! =)
would that be the same relay in a 93 corrado vr6?
+oldshield Possibly... I'd have to check a wiring diagram or parts catalog.
I don't now yes this is my solution for my problem,my van 2.5 fuel when runing,turn off in all places,I'm scary,noh found this problemas :(
Could be power supply relay or could be hall sensor in the distributor... or something else.
That's German at 3:36, thought you were in Canada!
I am... watch these: (I'm bilingual... moved to Canada when I was 11 years old).
ua-cam.com/video/d9DihQH_9_w/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/vxVutQVL5u4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/taP9Lg5xJC8/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS very good, vielen Grüße aus Köln! I can sort of understand the German, but I don't get every word in your accent. So the Tho in Thomas is the long 'oh' I'm guessing!
@@alexholmes6333 LOL... I could say the same about your accent from Köln! In German yes... but I introduce myself in the North American "Thomas" manner. When in Rome! 38 years in Canada... my Schwäbisch is pretty good still (I'd like to think).
@@EXOVCDS I'm British myself, so I don't really speak the accent, I imagine I'd understand more if I were a native speaker! And yes, your Schwäbisch sounds pretty authentic, at least to me!