Good job on adding the rust converter - I've seen too many videos over the past 6 months where this key step is missed. We're all here for the resto project - none of us are here for perfection, we understand you're learning as you go (as are we) - at least you ARE actually DOING IT! I'm no expert when it comes to welding, but I'd recommend using a flap disc on the body, so that all of the zinc galvanising is removed, at least 10mm back - the fumes are toxic and it's near impossible to weld (the gas it gives off can contribute to blow-through). Also, grind back the weld-through primer - some of it isn't as weld-through as advertised. Aim for small stitch welds, 8mm, leave a gap of the same length, weld again, and come back after and stitch in the gaps.
Great job. Welding body panels are always a pain. If you move a few inches between welds the panel won't heat up as much and move around. Its probably contamination of the panels that made it splatter and jump. The prep has to be absolutely meticulous but also, like anything, the more you practice the better you'll get. Dont beat yourself up over it. Anyone who has welded cars has been there!
Thanks MD - to be fair, I popped out yesterday to have another look and its actually looking pretty good (to me). What I need to know is if I should grind _all_ of the weld off that sits above the metal or if I should leave it for filling?
@@MrToddgibbs as it's going to show. I'd grind it flush. It will also become readily apparent as to if you got good penetration (that's what she said) on the weld or not.
Todd I feel your pain, A+ for effort and perseverance, sill looks good in I assume the new sill sheet you got in was stainless same as body ? not tying to weld 2 different materials together ? Whats the other side like, you're not going to have to do this all again ? Anyway a great video, useful for anyone at same stage of restoration, keep them coming
Hi Pieter! Body and sill (at that place is mild steel). As far as I know there is no stainless in the car? The other side has already been replaced by a previous owner, luckily!! Thanks for watching :)
@@MrToddgibbs whoops my bad, just finished watching DeLorean Vid same (Bosh fuel injection), 928 uses Galvanised steel panels, galvanising needs to be removed before welding or splatter city
you need a lump of copper behind those spot welds , then turn the power up one notch and weld across the hole , not from the center out , give it a wee wiggle in the middle and you will get hotter flatter spots that usually dont need dressing at all ,,,, and take a look into a joggler , that way you could have trimmed at the outer edge on the sill and made a lip under and had a lot easier time ...
Hi Tom - oh I like the look of the joggler! Yes that would have been much easier. It’s through comments like yours that I (and hopefully others) learn - thank you!
@@MrToddgibbs as long as you dont just think Im being a smart ass lol ,,, I do a lot of this kind of work , and its always a joy to pass on tips. if you buy a joggler buy the decent one ,, its swiss made from memory , well its not chinese , Ive had mine thirty years and its still going strong , its done a lot of work too
You’re doing everything I would do regarding that sill fitment…. Crack on young man😎👌🏽…… I had a 928 S2 manual……. Wish I could find another….. to bloody old now… knees have gone😂
Todd, welding is really tough! I picked up a TIG for the fewer sparks it throws when welding the floor of the Maserati Biturbo so I wouldn't burn it and the shed down. I found the original (Maserati) metal to be absolute garbage in comparison to sheet metal from the home center, the latter being so much easier to weld. P-car metal might be better quality, not sure. TIG is notoriously difficult so that was a part of my problem too: "Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't" is a funny one to keep in mind. Finally: 'When the body shop...'?? I was hoping you would do it ALL- bodywork and paint; Like you alluded, the journey is the reason to do this! You're doing great work, learning and willing to share it all! Love it- Thank you!
Hey bj, I guess we are talking about 45 year old metal thats been subjected to the elements. I promised myself I would go practice with some scraps, so I will. My welding on other bits felt much better. Bodyshop - oooh, thats a difficult one. I would love to do everything (Ive even been reading how to create your own spray booth!) but I also want the car to look good. Spraying is probably one step too far for me... unless everyone tells me otherwise.
Hey Todd..I'm relatively new to welding, hence have done tons of research..this is what I've learnt...for blow through = too high voltage, dirty earth, torch too far away from the work; wire speed too high and moving too slowly. Stick out should be about half inch max. For spatter = dirty surface, moving too fast, wire speed too high. For warping sheet metal = don't continuously weld, do left of the piece for 3 spots, then middle of the piece for 3 spots, the right end of the piece for 3 spots and repeat the pattern, use an air attachment on your compressor to cool the welds as you go, or a damp rag. with the "jumping" I think you're right with the path of least resistance...
Hi Matt, thanks for all that info. Its the same as what I understood... and I tried to adjust to compensate, but nothing seemed to work. I could feel the difference as I adjusted, which is good, but I just couldn't find a happy setting. On inspection, I don't think I suffered from any warping, so thats good. Thanks for taking the time to reply :)
Good job on adding the rust converter - I've seen too many videos over the past 6 months where this key step is missed. We're all here for the resto project - none of us are here for perfection, we understand you're learning as you go (as are we) - at least you ARE actually DOING IT! I'm no expert when it comes to welding, but I'd recommend using a flap disc on the body, so that all of the zinc galvanising is removed, at least 10mm back - the fumes are toxic and it's near impossible to weld (the gas it gives off can contribute to blow-through). Also, grind back the weld-through primer - some of it isn't as weld-through as advertised. Aim for small stitch welds, 8mm, leave a gap of the same length, weld again, and come back after and stitch in the gaps.
Thanks Eoin
Ah missed the second half of your message! Yes I ground the zinc off, did similar to how you suggest. I’ll practice and try to work out why. Thanks !
Great job.
Welding body panels are always a pain. If you move a few inches between welds the panel won't heat up as much and move around.
Its probably contamination of the panels that made it splatter and jump. The prep has to be absolutely meticulous but also, like anything, the more you practice the better you'll get. Dont beat yourself up over it. Anyone who has welded cars has been there!
Thanks MD - to be fair, I popped out yesterday to have another look and its actually looking pretty good (to me). What I need to know is if I should grind _all_ of the weld off that sits above the metal or if I should leave it for filling?
@@MrToddgibbs as it's going to show. I'd grind it flush.
It will also become readily apparent as to if you got good penetration (that's what she said) on the weld or not.
Wont it will need to be filled anyway before spraying? I assumed it would and therefore thought it best to leave more metal?
@@MrToddgibbs it will, but the smother it is, the thinner the skim of filler can be, which will result in a better finish
Hey, great work and great effort. The sill is on and matches well. All can be touched up later.
Thanks Mowdra, adding work for the bodyshop can’t be a bad thing :)
Todd I feel your pain, A+ for effort and perseverance, sill looks good in
I assume the new sill sheet you got in was stainless same as body ? not tying to weld 2 different materials together ?
Whats the other side like, you're not going to have to do this all again ?
Anyway a great video, useful for anyone at same stage of restoration, keep them coming
Hi Pieter! Body and sill (at that place is mild steel). As far as I know there is no stainless in the car? The other side has already been replaced by a previous owner, luckily!! Thanks for watching :)
@@MrToddgibbs whoops my bad, just finished watching DeLorean Vid same (Bosh fuel injection), 928 uses Galvanised steel panels, galvanising needs to be removed before welding or splatter city
@pieterschaar5613 yes :). I ground off the coating. Maybe some was still there…
Todd, I'd leave the finishing of the sill to the bodyshop
That was my thought. Thanks
you need a lump of copper behind those spot welds , then turn the power up one notch and weld across the hole , not from the center out , give it a wee wiggle in the middle and you will get hotter flatter spots that usually dont need dressing at all ,,,, and take a look into a joggler , that way you could have trimmed at the outer edge on the sill and made a lip under and had a lot easier time ...
Hi Tom - oh I like the look of the joggler! Yes that would have been much easier. It’s through comments like yours that I (and hopefully others) learn - thank you!
@@MrToddgibbs as long as you dont just think Im being a smart ass lol ,,, I do a lot of this kind of work , and its always a joy to pass on tips. if you buy a joggler buy the decent one ,, its swiss made from memory , well its not chinese , Ive had mine thirty years and its still going strong , its done a lot of work too
@@tomthompson7400 no, I do this stuff for the feedback and help! Please comment when you can help :)
You’re doing everything I would do regarding that sill fitment…. Crack on young man😎👌🏽…… I had a 928 S2 manual……. Wish I could find another….. to bloody old now… knees have gone😂
Thanks for your comment Colin, appreciated :)
Todd, welding is really tough! I picked up a TIG for the fewer sparks it throws when welding the floor of the Maserati Biturbo so I wouldn't burn it and the shed down. I found the original (Maserati) metal to be absolute garbage in comparison to sheet metal from the home center, the latter being so much easier to weld. P-car metal might be better quality, not sure. TIG is notoriously difficult so that was a part of my problem too: "Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't" is a funny one to keep in mind. Finally: 'When the body shop...'?? I was hoping you would do it ALL- bodywork and paint; Like you alluded, the journey is the reason to do this! You're doing great work, learning and willing to share it all! Love it- Thank you!
Hey bj, I guess we are talking about 45 year old metal thats been subjected to the elements. I promised myself I would go practice with some scraps, so I will. My welding on other bits felt much better.
Bodyshop - oooh, thats a difficult one. I would love to do everything (Ive even been reading how to create your own spray booth!) but I also want the car to look good. Spraying is probably one step too far for me... unless everyone tells me otherwise.
Hey Todd..I'm relatively new to welding, hence have done tons of research..this is what I've learnt...for blow through = too high voltage, dirty earth, torch too far away from the work; wire speed too high and moving too slowly. Stick out should be about half inch max. For spatter = dirty surface, moving too fast, wire speed too high. For warping sheet metal = don't continuously weld, do left of the piece for 3 spots, then middle of the piece for 3 spots, the right end of the piece for 3 spots and repeat the pattern, use an air attachment on your compressor to cool the welds as you go, or a damp rag. with the "jumping" I think you're right with the path of least resistance...
Hi Matt, thanks for all that info. Its the same as what I understood... and I tried to adjust to compensate, but nothing seemed to work. I could feel the difference as I adjusted, which is good, but I just couldn't find a happy setting. On inspection, I don't think I suffered from any warping, so thats good. Thanks for taking the time to reply :)