I have a 1997 Hijet Super Jumbo with Auto and A/C. I bought mine from an importer in NC. I've done a lot of mechanical repairs since my purchase, timing belt, water pump, belts , ac, brakes , suspension, drag link, carb, fuel pump, plugs, all fluids. The list goes on. But I wanted to pass on some advice, some key components you want to replace are the timing belt and water pump. My truck only had 58k and all original parts. But after replacing my timing components I discovered the 25 year old tensioner had no grease left in it. Also, the water pump was extremely corroded from the coolant breaking down. You also want to replace the air filter and the gear oil in both your diffs and transfer case. I used all synthetic oils. I also drained the auto trans and refilled with synthetic atf. As to your gas mileage and vibrating steering wheel, I get about 27mpg with my best being 29.5. Your driving style GREATLY affects you mileage. I never go above 90kmh and my best was obtained driving around 80kmh. The automatic hurts the mpg and the ac really hurts...I'm guessing your vibration my be due to a loose or broken vacuum line. I replaced MANY vacuum lines and ALL the fuel lines. Also, if you do a lot of high speed commuting, check you oil level often. My truck doesn't use any oil but I've heard from others that they can. Good Luck
Thanks for the great info. I was planning on most of the maintenance items that you did on your Hijet when my 1996 Hijet with 71,000 km arrives in a couple of weeks, but the timing belt was replaced on mine not too long ago so hopefully I can avoid that job, and hopefully they replaced the water pump at the same time but I have no way of knowing. Apparently you don't need most of those vacuum lines. :-P
Tip: before attempting to install your steering wheel cover, place the cover, out of the package, in a bright sunlit place for about 15 minutes. It will become soft and pliable, just long enough to install the cover and make any small adjustments you may need to do.
Thanks for this. I am always looking for tips with this sort of thing. I will use your words for the same exact steering wheel cover install on my newly acquired Highlander.
i like to use a zip tie or some tape , cuz if you lock the top part in place it's much easier to stretch that lower part the rest of the way, but really most of the time you just get a little rough with it and it's fine lol
Myself. No need for a broker. It's just four documents (You will see which ones on the CBP website about importing cars) and then you are good to go. My import video is the one immediately before this one (I have a Playlist as well): ua-cam.com/video/cRICT_Ty-0M/v-deo.htmlsi=kkizCm32QjVj787j
@@JCMFix Yea I watched your video already, sucks they charged you twice for escort. And yes been doing lots of research and watching lots of videos before I pull the trigger. Going to wait until next year because there doing away with safety inspections here in Texas effective Jan 1 2025 so that would save me a step in all the legwork
@@JCMFix That reminds me what website did you use to find the truck? I been looking at Carfromjapan and Be Forward, maybe you can toss in another option for me to look
@@falconman9554 Cool. Gracias por ver. A commenter last week advised me to get a TWIC card to avoid needing an escort. So I did just that, applied through TSA online, went to my local Staples to do the interview, paid the $125.25 fee, got approved, they shipped it in the mail, now I have 5 years free of TSA Precheck and no need for an escort at the Maritime seaport borders for 5 years. Just pull up a u-haul trailer hitch and bring that sucks back home. Without any registration. I feel you. Most of these Japanese cars are top notch and probably can pass the Texas state inspection either way. Remember, for them to even be able to be driven, your future car would have had to past an inspection that last two years. So the car you may get shouldn't be that rugged. Usually, the tires are the first thing that needs replacing.
@@JCMFix Yea down here in Texas they Require a saftey inspection and then a vin verification inspection before they will let me title it. I work alot so having to not do a saftey inspection would save me scheduling a day off. Plus I plan on doing a full tune up/tires/brake inspection anyway when I get it...but I don't want to spend any money on it till I have the paperwork straight. vs buying one now getting it to pass inspection only to run into paperwork issues. I will definately look into getting a TWIC card though! Thanks for the info
How the heck did that Hijet pass the biennial Shaken auto inspection in Japan with 19 year old tires? :-o I'm putting a 2.5" coil over lift on my Hijet and then some 23" or possibly 25" DOT rated mud and snow tires. I'd prefer the 23" because the effective gearing will be too high with the 25" tires to properly rev out the little engine for max power in fifth gear... not that I'm planning on driving it on the highway. Based on the auction pictures, my 1996 Hijet has less surface rust than yours, but I'm still going to "paint" it inside and out with Medium Quartz Gray Monstaliner truck bed liner, after removing all the rust of course, and doing a small Bondo repair on the left front corner. My truck is missing the headliner but that's OK because I'm Monstalining it! The rest of the interior looks very good... even the seats. I'll install a double DIN Android stereo with backup camera... probably an Atoto. Good luck finding and fixing that fluid leak. I hate leaks. The auction sheet with my Hijet stated there were no fluid leaks. I passed on several Hijets with "Oil Leak - Small" on the inspection sheet. I didn't mind a little body damage, dents, scrapes, or even a messed up interior that I could repair or replace, but I didn't want a leaky vehicle, a smoking vehicle, or significant corrosion. Those were deal breakers for me.
I have no idea how those old tires were still on mine. I am thinking it was strictly for farm use and avoided certain requirements, but I don't know if that's a thing in Japan. Nice upgrades to come on yours. I just finished installing a double din in mine. Video to come in the future.
@@JCMFix - I'm looking forward to your double DIN stereo installation video! I want to avoid the problems and pitfalls you encounter so I can find my own unique problems.
At the time I purchased this Mini truck, the manual grade (C,D or R) versions were going for around $300-700. If the grades are A+, A, or B they will go for a little more. Mine was an R grade but an automatic, and started at around $800 before shipping, handling and auction fees.
I paid $265 for a 1996 4WD Hijet in pretty good condition with 71,000 km (~45,000 miles) and a Hi/Lo transfer case for off road, but I think it got lost in the Japanese seller's online database. I lucked into finding it. It didn't show up when searching for Hijet. I think people weren't seeing it and nobody bought it so their algorithm kept lowering the price. I've seen others in comparable condition sell for around $1500. However, in addition to the $265, I also paid $80 for the seller's warranty, $100 to have it steam cleaned so it'd pass the USDA import inspection, and $1935 for shipping, so my total to get it to the port was $2380. I also paid $75 to electronically file a couple of forms for Customs and Border Inspection and other US federal government agencies and $22.68 to have a power of attorney notarized and witnessed so the forms could be electronically filed on my behalf. I'll need to hire a TWIC escort which will probably cost $100 or so to get me onto the port property, and I'll need to pay 25% for the Chicken Tax tariff to import a light truck into the US, which is where I'll save by only paying $265 for the truck itself. There's probably other port related fees, plus taxes and registration fees to my state, insurance, etc. One of my larger expenses is the 18 hours of driving and probably 3 hours at the port and the $300 in gas to drive my SUV and trailer to get the Hijet home.
I'm looking to get a Japanese mini truck this summer for utility and goofy stuff in town in the DC-area. Watching as many of these videos as I can. I can drive it home from the port. How was the import paperwork and all that? Would you recommend doing it yourself or buying through a dealer? Cheers!
If you have a fully registered or temporary tag, then you can drive it off the port. Import paperwork is easy. Just follow these steps on this website: www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-import-export/importing-car I recommend doing exactly what I did, doing it myself: ua-cam.com/video/cRICT_Ty-0M/v-deo.html I would never buy from a dealer stateside. They charge too much.
@@JCMFix Thanks for the tip. As a MD resident I guess I need to talk to the MVA here first and see what documents they need for import. It's really, really tempting to just pay a dealer to handle it.
@@bikerbobcat Cool. All the docs needed are stated within the CBP link above. Once the required CBP stamp is placed on the required documents, and you present the DMV with the original bill of sale from Japan along with the Import Certificate (Equivalent to a car title) which are both sent ahead of time via DHL envelope with the keys, the DMV should have no issues titling the vehicle (unless you are in a Commonwealth/State which are slowly banning Kei vehicles or kei vehicles from the highway).
No sir. Not at all. Just have your CBP entry paperwork stamped and orderly. Fairfax County in Virginia was a little annoying in Virginia though when I registered my Toyota Century. They didn't understand the process and had to call Richmond (the capital) to confirm. They made me sit at the DMV for about 2 hours as they called and emailed anyone who could give them a straight answer. All is well though
It was sitting for a while while in Japan and then on the ship for a couple of months. It took a couple of fill ups and long drives to clear the system out it seems. After that, all is well.
⬇The parts that were shown/mentioned in this video (# CommissionsEarned):
1. Black Panther Car Steering Wheel Cover 15 inch Universal:
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⬇ JCM Fix's Top DIY Tools used (# CommissionsEarned):
1. DEWALT 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit: amzn.to/3dtg9bz
2. GEARWRENCH 3/8-Inch Drive Flex Ratchet: amzn.to/2zgbr21
3. TEKTON 4957 Impact Adapter and Reducer Set, Cr-V, 4-Piece:
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4. MAXPOWER 11-Piece 1/4" Metric 5mm - 14mm Ratcheting Socket Wrench Set:
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5. EPAuto 1/2-Inch Drive Metric Deep Impact 11 Piece Socket Set- 5mm - 14mm, Cr-V:
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I have a 1997 Hijet Super Jumbo with Auto and A/C. I bought mine from an importer in NC. I've done a lot of mechanical repairs since my purchase, timing belt, water pump, belts , ac, brakes , suspension, drag link, carb, fuel pump, plugs, all fluids. The list goes on. But I wanted to pass on some advice, some key components you want to replace are the timing belt and water pump. My truck only had 58k and all original parts. But after replacing my timing components I discovered the 25 year old tensioner had no grease left in it. Also, the water pump was extremely corroded from the coolant breaking down. You also want to replace the air filter and the gear oil in both your diffs and transfer case. I used all synthetic oils. I also drained the auto trans and refilled with synthetic atf. As to your gas mileage and vibrating steering wheel, I get about 27mpg with my best being 29.5. Your driving style GREATLY affects you mileage. I never go above 90kmh and my best was obtained driving around 80kmh. The automatic hurts the mpg and the ac really hurts...I'm guessing your vibration my be due to a loose or broken vacuum line. I replaced MANY vacuum lines and ALL the fuel lines. Also, if you do a lot of high speed commuting, check you oil level often. My truck doesn't use any oil but I've heard from others that they can. Good Luck
All great advice. I will look over this comment often to help guide me on what else I should do.
Thanks!
Thanks for the great info. I was planning on most of the maintenance items that you did on your Hijet when my 1996 Hijet with 71,000 km arrives in a couple of weeks, but the timing belt was replaced on mine not too long ago so hopefully I can avoid that job, and hopefully they replaced the water pump at the same time but I have no way of knowing. Apparently you don't need most of those vacuum lines. :-P
@@Liberty4Ever Good stuff.
21 mpg is great for a truck! That figure is unheard of in trucks in the usa.
@@PixelArtGamergirlIt's a great pocket rocket
Tip: before attempting to install your steering wheel cover, place the cover, out of the package, in a bright sunlit place for about 15 minutes. It will become soft and pliable, just long enough to install the cover and make any small adjustments you may need to do.
Thanks for this. I am always looking for tips with this sort of thing. I will use your words for the same exact steering wheel cover install on my newly acquired Highlander.
Congrats on your mini Truck! enjoy
Cheersa @rf tech!
man i love this truck! btw i use to own a 90 civic as well. amazing cars!
Nice.
The engine over heated and blew on my 1990 Civic. Still a cool car though. I drove it everywhere.
i like to use a zip tie or some tape , cuz if you lock the top part in place it's much easier to stretch that lower part the rest of the way, but really most of the time you just get a little rough with it and it's fine lol
For sure. These trucks are the gifts that keep on giving.
I know this video is a year old. But I'm planning on importing a Sambar next year. Did you import the Daihatsu yourself or did you use a broker?
Myself. No need for a broker. It's just four documents (You will see which ones on the CBP website about importing cars) and then you are good to go.
My import video is the one immediately before this one (I have a Playlist as well):
ua-cam.com/video/cRICT_Ty-0M/v-deo.htmlsi=kkizCm32QjVj787j
@@JCMFix Yea I watched your video already, sucks they charged you twice for escort. And yes been doing lots of research and watching lots of videos before I pull the trigger. Going to wait until next year because there doing away with safety inspections here in Texas effective Jan 1 2025 so that would save me a step in all the legwork
@@JCMFix That reminds me what website did you use to find the truck? I been looking at Carfromjapan and Be Forward, maybe you can toss in another option for me to look
@@falconman9554 Cool. Gracias por ver. A commenter last week advised me to get a TWIC card to avoid needing an escort. So I did just that, applied through TSA online, went to my local Staples to do the interview, paid the $125.25 fee, got approved, they shipped it in the mail, now I have 5 years free of TSA Precheck and no need for an escort at the Maritime seaport borders for 5 years. Just pull up a u-haul trailer hitch and bring that sucks back home. Without any registration.
I feel you. Most of these Japanese cars are top notch and probably can pass the Texas state inspection either way. Remember, for them to even be able to be driven, your future car would have had to past an inspection that last two years. So the car you may get shouldn't be that rugged.
Usually, the tires are the first thing that needs replacing.
@@JCMFix Yea down here in Texas they Require a saftey inspection and then a vin verification inspection before they will let me title it. I work alot so having to not do a saftey inspection would save me scheduling a day off. Plus I plan on doing a full tune up/tires/brake inspection anyway when I get it...but I don't want to spend any money on it till I have the paperwork straight. vs buying one now getting it to pass inspection only to run into paperwork issues. I will definately look into getting a TWIC card though! Thanks for the info
How the heck did that Hijet pass the biennial Shaken auto inspection in Japan with 19 year old tires? :-o
I'm putting a 2.5" coil over lift on my Hijet and then some 23" or possibly 25" DOT rated mud and snow tires. I'd prefer the 23" because the effective gearing will be too high with the 25" tires to properly rev out the little engine for max power in fifth gear... not that I'm planning on driving it on the highway.
Based on the auction pictures, my 1996 Hijet has less surface rust than yours, but I'm still going to "paint" it inside and out with Medium Quartz Gray Monstaliner truck bed liner, after removing all the rust of course, and doing a small Bondo repair on the left front corner. My truck is missing the headliner but that's OK because I'm Monstalining it! The rest of the interior looks very good... even the seats. I'll install a double DIN Android stereo with backup camera... probably an Atoto.
Good luck finding and fixing that fluid leak. I hate leaks. The auction sheet with my Hijet stated there were no fluid leaks. I passed on several Hijets with "Oil Leak - Small" on the inspection sheet. I didn't mind a little body damage, dents, scrapes, or even a messed up interior that I could repair or replace, but I didn't want a leaky vehicle, a smoking vehicle, or significant corrosion. Those were deal breakers for me.
I have no idea how those old tires were still on mine. I am thinking it was strictly for farm use and avoided certain requirements, but I don't know if that's a thing in Japan.
Nice upgrades to come on yours. I just finished installing a double din in mine. Video to come in the future.
@@JCMFix - I'm looking forward to your double DIN stereo installation video! I want to avoid the problems and pitfalls you encounter so I can find my own unique problems.
@@Liberty4Ever I'll start editing this weekend.
Auto, AC and part time 4 wheel drive, these are rare on a Kei truck.
Yes. That's why I am not giving up on it and continue to fix it until this day. More videos to come mate.
The radiated Fukushima cars are now showing up in the US. Maybe do a radiation test. Lol
Mine came from a different region of Japan.
How much are these little trucks they are so kool?
It all depends what you bid on. You can check out "be forward" and you will see all of the amazing prices straight from Japan.
If you want to get more mileage use no ethanol gas and add a bit of seafoam additive
Great tips. Thanks!
Why an automatic kei truck?
Why not?
What's the average cost for a truck like that and how long does it take to get it?
At the time I purchased this Mini truck, the manual grade (C,D or R) versions were going for around $300-700. If the grades are A+, A, or B they will go for a little more.
Mine was an R grade but an automatic, and started at around $800 before shipping, handling and auction fees.
@@JCMFix Thanks!!
@@brixmcfee Cheers.
I paid $265 for a 1996 4WD Hijet in pretty good condition with 71,000 km (~45,000 miles) and a Hi/Lo transfer case for off road, but I think it got lost in the Japanese seller's online database. I lucked into finding it. It didn't show up when searching for Hijet. I think people weren't seeing it and nobody bought it so their algorithm kept lowering the price. I've seen others in comparable condition sell for around $1500. However, in addition to the $265, I also paid $80 for the seller's warranty, $100 to have it steam cleaned so it'd pass the USDA import inspection, and $1935 for shipping, so my total to get it to the port was $2380. I also paid $75 to electronically file a couple of forms for Customs and Border Inspection and other US federal government agencies and $22.68 to have a power of attorney notarized and witnessed so the forms could be electronically filed on my behalf. I'll need to hire a TWIC escort which will probably cost $100 or so to get me onto the port property, and I'll need to pay 25% for the Chicken Tax tariff to import a light truck into the US, which is where I'll save by only paying $265 for the truck itself. There's probably other port related fees, plus taxes and registration fees to my state, insurance, etc. One of my larger expenses is the 18 hours of driving and probably 3 hours at the port and the $300 in gas to drive my SUV and trailer to get the Hijet home.
@@Liberty4Ever Nice step-by-step process sharing. Right on.
I'm looking to get a Japanese mini truck this summer for utility and goofy stuff in town in the DC-area. Watching as many of these videos as I can. I can drive it home from the port. How was the import paperwork and all that? Would you recommend doing it yourself or buying through a dealer? Cheers!
If you have a fully registered or temporary tag, then you can drive it off the port.
Import paperwork is easy. Just follow these steps on this website: www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-import-export/importing-car
I recommend doing exactly what I did, doing it myself:
ua-cam.com/video/cRICT_Ty-0M/v-deo.html
I would never buy from a dealer stateside. They charge too much.
@@JCMFix Thanks for the tip. As a MD resident I guess I need to talk to the MVA here first and see what documents they need for import. It's really, really tempting to just pay a dealer to handle it.
@@bikerbobcat Cool. All the docs needed are stated within the CBP link above. Once the required CBP stamp is placed on the required documents, and you present the DMV with the original bill of sale from Japan along with the Import Certificate (Equivalent to a car title) which are both sent ahead of time via DHL envelope with the keys, the DMV should have no issues titling the vehicle (unless you are in a Commonwealth/State which are slowly banning Kei vehicles or kei vehicles from the highway).
Pls sir if hijet they will consume fully why are the solutions
@@MuhammedHamzaadamu107-tz3rg I'm not sure.
Any problems getting it registered?
No sir. Not at all. Just have your CBP entry paperwork stamped and orderly. Fairfax County in Virginia was a little annoying in Virginia though when I registered my Toyota Century. They didn't understand the process and had to call Richmond (the capital) to confirm. They made me sit at the DMV for about 2 hours as they called and emailed anyone who could give them a straight answer.
All is well though
@@JCMFix I’m in MD, near Baltimore were you picked yours up, not sure it would be better.
@@charleskyler1928 All of MD should be better than VA because the port is there. I am sure MD sees imports all day everyday.
Wtf? It sounds like you are saying that the size of the gas tank is changing. What do you mean, you hope to get it up to 9 gallons?
It was sitting for a while while in Japan and then on the ship for a couple of months. It took a couple of fill ups and long drives to clear the system out it seems. After that, all is well.
It is getting poor mpg most likely because the choke is stuck and it shakes because the carburetor needs adjusted to smooth out the idle.
Thanks for your reply Trip, but this one is the non-carburated EFI fuel injection version.
@@JCMFix oic haha of course I had to be wrong! I have had a 93 s83p for several years and love it! You will learn to love yours as well haha
@@tripthyme6378 It's a wonderful ride. Thanks for being here.