I just found this channel. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload these videos. I'm loving this series and learning a lot. Cheers from Australia.
Really glad to find your channel. I recently aquired my late papa's "78 15HP evinrude. It has been sitting in the shop for 35 years that I know of. I was a bit nervous about refurbishing it myself as I didn't want to mess the thing up due to my lack of knowledge and it's sentimental value. Your detailed videos have given me the boost of confidence that I needed. I'm sure it would make papa happy to see his great grandsons and myself out running lines with this old gem. We're gonna make it happen. THANK YOU SIR!!!
It's an innovative idea to use wood sticks for the rings. A different way that my dad taught me is to break off one of the old rings and use these pieces to push in the new rings. All ways are good 🙂
I love your tool organization lol that’s the sign of a true mechanic. And you like me knows exactly where every sings tool is lol. We do have a method to our madness lolol. Just don’t ask a buddy to help cause they always mess up our madness and can never find what we ask them to get anyhow hahahah
I'm glad the used piston worked out OK...The cost of boring and oversize pistons is prohibitive for sure. You are wise NOT to use those conventional wind up ring compressors, they are a good way to break the rings which are pinned in place. Using your fingers, or those wood dowels is a safe way of compressing the rings. The OEM compressors are actual beveled sleeves, and unique for each bore size, plus the oversize options. And yes, you had OEM standard new rings, but it is always a good idea to check ring end gaps of new rings, "just in case". I have seen oversize rings packaged in standard boxes/packages. I is also a good idea to clean the piston ring grooves using broken old rings. I didn't see you align the center main bearing cap dowel pin, but you must have. Sealing those block halves properly is a very important detail that is oftentimes overlooked and done improperly. I am assuming that the Loctite product you used is the OMC gel seal equivalent. Those block halves must be perfectly clean, and old the old gel seal removed, this step is critical. Generally it is easier to apply the gel seal to the front half of the crankcase, but either way if fine. Too much gel seal will squeeze into the bearings and make a mess, not enough will create a crankcase leak. There is nothing more frustrating than firing up an engine only to have an external crankcase leak...I didn't see you install the alignment pin, am assuming you did this before torqueing the crankcase bolts. I wish you would have used gasket sealer on the head/thermostat/exhaust cover bolts. That intake bypass cover has the sealing bead, no need to use any gasket sealer here, and the Loctite is not meant for this. She is coming together nicely and will be up and running in no time....Don't forget what I told you about the upper water tube grommet....Better to clean and reuse the original grommet instead of using the superceded troublesome grommet.
Yes I do remember what you are telling me. The locktite 518 is the equivalent to the OMC gel seal. The gasket sealer was the same color as the locktite I used on the gaskets and I did scrape the old gel seal off and cleaned the block with alcohol. I do think I put a little to much 518 on the block. Do you think I need to take it back a part and clean it off? I probably spent way to much time making sure the crank was in place. If I would have showed it all people would of been bored. And I did have to back up for the alignment Pin. I didn't show the pin being installed. I did make sure the grommet was in good shape and I will take your advice. Thanks again for sharing your years of experience and knowledge. Thanks Jim
@@OmFishing i don't think that people who are looking to learn this process will get bored by you showing all the details, this is why we're watching so we can learn the details of the process. Please show them, there's a lot of novices out there. I appreciate taking the time to do this
That’s so much easier than those stupid ring compressors lol. I have two wedges I made out of iron wood that I ground down into wedges and put notches in the ends that are the same width as the ring is wide that fit into the ring slots. Work perfect. Think about grinding half of the tip of that clothespin off kinda is what I did with ironwood so it has a lip the ring sits in. Works great. I’ve done more bad than good with ring compressors. That I gave up lol. Great minds think alike.
Just like all your videos very very helpful. I enjoy sitting here and learning my question is that I have a 19 8815 horse Johnson, that I am rebuilding just finished up, honing the cylinders and starting to reassemble. So the only issue I have would be torque specifications, reassembling the motor, just wondering if you could help would greatly appreciate trying to keep cost down, but I know I can buy a manual which I don’t want to do. Thanks again and keep up the good work John.
the gel seal: only a thin 1/8'' bead on the crank flanges is all you need, since those areas are the only parts that need to be sealed. these motors really need to be bored and honed, as they are surely out of round. this might get you 100 hours of use as is, but if you really want it to last it needs bored. fun project though!
Love all your videos and enjoy sitting here and learning. Please keep it coming. Thanks for all the knowledge just have a few questions on torque specifications. I’m redoing my old 15 horse Johnson, 1988 just like to know if you could send over some torque specifications rather than me spend more money than I already have. Trying to keep cost low would certainly appreciate. Thank you, John.
Do I use a gel seal on the crankcase or no? It squished everywhere even inside the crankshaft. The crankcase wouldn't go on flush so when I torqued down everything it was flush. Is it suppose to bend like that?
What compression values are you expecting to get once you get this all together? I rebuilt a 1966 40hp last winter and did exactly the same thing you did using an existing piston and purchased a used one on EBay. New rings though and had very good results. Good luck and can’t wait to see her run.
@@LivetofishOutboardRepair They said that they would like to put a little more cross hatch in them. They sad the cylinder was still well with in the standard did not need bored. I did not ask how much wear was on it over the original bore.
I have a question about making the gasket (very new to this): I've heard that you're not supposed to use gasket maker to create a head gasket - think this had to do with having consistent pressure, an even surface, and maybe temperature concerns as well. But between the crank case and the block (around 17:00), is the temperature and/or compression not as much of an issue? Thanks for the long form video - this is really helpful for anyone who didn't grow up working on engines with their moms and dads!
The engine block is in a negative pressure when the piston is going up the cylinder and on a positive pressure when coming back down. We are only talking about maybe 15 pounds. The head is anywhere between 80 to 110. I don't know that will not work, I have never tried it.
I found torquing to 48 then 52 then 58 works best. Sounds like over kill but an old man outboard rebuilder that taught me said never skip this step. Lol. He swore by triple torquing. And he would do it both ways in an x pattern from left to right then right to left. So twelve times.
On a low compression engine do you just replace the ring with original size or do you use bigger ring? How do we know which size ring to use to fix low compression ?Do you have to hone the cylinder before putting in new rings?
You buy the rings for the size of the piston. If it is a standard. What came from the factory. You buy standard rings. If you bore the cylinder you would buy the over stock pistons and rings to the size the cylinder is bored to. Like .030 over stock. You would not put over stock pistons and rings in a stock bore. I hone the cylinders, but when I took the block to be checked they re hone the block on a machine. The honing of the cylinder is for lubrication of the piston and the cylinder wall.
I'm currently rebuilding my 87 15hp and I ordered some used pistons that come with the rods off of ebay. Is it ok to use the rods that the used pistons come with? When I tore my engine apart I marked top and bottom on the caps
Yes I used the rod on the pistons because, that is a pressed fit and It would be hard for someone with out the special tools to change them with out bending the piston. Good Luck
I’ve rebuilt 2 of these Johnson/Evinrude 15HP power heads out of necessity, typically because they’ve had salt corrosion clogging issues, but good compression, so I haven’t had to remove any pistons. I recently bought a pallet of 5 Evinrude 15HP motors (to kill time during covid) and tore into the first one. It had decent compression at around 85# each cylinder, but I decided to remove the pistons as the cylinders were a bit rusty (wanted to get in and deep clean). With the pistons removed I noticed the rings look unusually loose. I would appreciate your opinion in determining if this is normal or should I look into replacing the rings? Would you be open to me sending you a couple of photos? I really appreciate all of your videos, you are one of a kind.
Yes you can send me a photo omfishing@yahoo.com I would hone the cylinders and put new rings if the pistons are out. If you think the motor looks good other than that.
Hello how are you I am trying to find the same pistons rims part number that you show but I can't find it and that is the original One please let me know where you find it thanks and great video by the way
The rings I bought for this motor was from Boatnet.com. Some times they are slow shipping but they have what you need. Let me know how your build goes. Thanks for commenting.
So do the piston always come with the rod already installed as to prevent distortion when installing the pin? Thanks for the help and yet another great video sir
No I looked for a good used piston with the rod on it. It takes special tools to remove and reinstall the wrist pin on these pistons and not get the piston out of round. It would cost to much for me to buy the tool for one job. You can buy new OEM pistons for about $140.00 each about $50.00 for after market pistons. With out the rod on them. Either way if I mess it up it was going to cost. That is way I bought used.
Good question indeed. And the answer is "NO", all these pieces come separately. He found some nice "used" piston/rod assemblies. New pistons have wrist pin bores that are press fit/both sides. It is very difficult to assemble these pieces without distorting the piston skirts. The pistons must be heated, the wrist pins frozen, and somehow magically the wrist pin bearings had to be in place. The factory had special fixtures and jigs to get this job done, it is near impossible for us mere mortals to perform this task successfully. I don't understand why engineering felt this design was necessary, seems like "overkill" to me...
@@bigred4802 I did my 2000 Johnson 15HP last year, and the wrist pins push out and back in tight but pretty easy by hand with a warmed up piston. What year was the motor in this video? Thanks.
When working on the fuel line you have to make sure the line has a good seal. I you are sucking air anywhere the engine will not run. The O-rings can be change in the fuel line connection. I don't try to change them for $5 you can buy the replacement. I have bought the cheap replacement end and it not connect to the OEM connector. Those ends get dirt on them and most of use connect it anyway. I am guilty myself. I am working on a E-tec right now with a fuel line sucking air. Thanks for commenting. Keep Watching!!
I just go to a suppler like boatnet.com and look up the part number and see where I can get the best price. Remember it takes a special tool to remove and replace the wrist pin in the piston with out distorting it. That is why I replaced my piston with one that had the rod in it.
Just a slight note. I know this is an older video. And im late to the party. When putting an engine together it always helps to put assembly lube on the journals where your crank contacted the engine block between the 2 cylinders. Im going to attempt to rebuild a Sea King 5hp. If I fail its no loss. Got it for free.
@@OmFishing repaired the engine .. wrong criteria .... cca 60 PSI work ua-cam.com/video/7jsGFXF_TUY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/s2iMbZgzprE/v-deo.html for now let so ....thenks
Sorry my english is bad, I use google translate. How do I know if my Johnson 15 HP 1984 model no. J15 ECTR 1983 needs rings 0386279 RING SET, Standard or 0386280 RING SET, .030 O.S. THANKS
When you are rebuilding a engine. The cylinder bore from the factory is standard. If you or the person before you bored the cylinder .030 over standard then you have to get the bigger rings.
That is a good idea. I did try to using a ring compressor and broken a ring. That was costly. That is why I did it the way I did. I could see the hole ring. What ever way works is good.
Haha that’s another pet peeve he had. Never torque to an odd number. If it said 65 he did 62. Always three pounds under. He swore that it would strip out aluminum lol.
I don’t know exactly where your from,it’s not east Texas, or the skeeters would be eatin you up….some place in the country, chickens all the birds and pine trees from what I saw ….
The gel seal is applied on only one side of the crankcase, usually the forward half...Too much gel seal will squeezed into the bearings and crankcase, plug up passages and not seal properly.... This step is super critical to assembly, do it wrong and the powerhead has to be separated again, and is a big mess.
Yes, you are absolutely correct. Like I say, sealing the crankcase halves properly is a detail often overlooked....There is nothing worse than seeing a crankcase leak once re-commissioned. And, like you say, too much is just as bad as not enough.
I know I left everybody disappointed on this one. The deal was I had the motor running in my test tank. A friend of my son came over and wanted to buy the motor. I said not for sale I need to finish my last vid on it. He pulled out enough cash he took the motor home with him. I did not think I would ever get a offer like that again on this motor.
Im beginning a full teardown of a Johnson 9.9 today. I have to pick up a few more tools first, but your video gave me all i needed to see. Thanks .
Thanks for watching and commenting. Be sure to share your progress.
So many advertisements. That and UA-cam politics ruining what was once a great forum. Tks for posting this rebuild. Helpful to many of us.
Am doing the same project so I was anxious to get your video. Getting #3 was christmas in September. Keep the good work !
Thanks for commenting and keep watching.
I just found this channel. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload these videos. I'm loving this series and learning a lot. Cheers from Australia.
Happy to help and thanks for commenting. Stay Safe.
Really glad to find your channel. I recently aquired my late papa's "78 15HP evinrude. It has been sitting in the shop for 35 years that I know of. I was a bit nervous about refurbishing it myself as I didn't want to mess the thing up due to my lack of knowledge and it's sentimental value. Your detailed videos have given me the boost of confidence that I needed. I'm sure it would make papa happy to see his great grandsons and myself out running lines with this old gem. We're gonna make it happen. THANK YOU SIR!!!
How is your 1978 Evinrude 15hp coming along?
@Om Fishing How you doing? I see you don't have any videos for over a year.
@@the_car_guy5915 I know it has been a year I plan on starting 2023 off with a lot of new videos. Thank You for asking.
It's an innovative idea to use wood sticks for the rings. A different way that my dad taught me is to break off one of the old rings and use these pieces to push in the new rings. All ways are good 🙂
Thanks for video Micke from 🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
I love your tool organization lol that’s the sign of a true mechanic. And you like me knows exactly where every sings tool is lol. We do have a method to our madness lolol. Just don’t ask a buddy to help cause they always mess up our madness and can never find what we ask them to get anyhow hahahah
Great videos, appreciated the start to finish.
Happy to help. Stay Safe.
God bless you guys prayer for the people that got hit by the hurricane be safe
Thanks and you Stay Safe!!
I'm glad the used piston worked out OK...The cost of boring and oversize pistons is prohibitive for sure. You are wise NOT to use those conventional wind up ring compressors, they are a good way to break the rings which are pinned in place. Using your fingers, or those wood dowels is a safe way of compressing the rings. The OEM compressors are actual beveled sleeves, and unique for each bore size, plus the oversize options. And yes, you had OEM standard new rings, but it is always a good idea to check ring end gaps of new rings, "just in case". I have seen oversize rings packaged in standard boxes/packages. I is also a good idea to clean the piston ring grooves using broken old rings. I didn't see you align the center main bearing cap dowel pin, but you must have. Sealing those block halves properly is a very important detail that is oftentimes overlooked and done improperly. I am assuming that the Loctite product you used is the OMC gel seal equivalent. Those block halves must be perfectly clean, and old the old gel seal removed, this step is critical. Generally it is easier to apply the gel seal to the front half of the crankcase, but either way if fine. Too much gel seal will squeeze into the bearings and make a mess, not enough will create a crankcase leak. There is nothing more frustrating than firing up an engine only to have an external crankcase leak...I didn't see you install the alignment pin, am assuming you did this before torqueing the crankcase bolts. I wish you would have used gasket sealer on the head/thermostat/exhaust cover bolts. That intake bypass cover has the sealing bead, no need to use any gasket sealer here, and the Loctite is not meant for this. She is coming together nicely and will be up and running in no time....Don't forget what I told you about the upper water tube grommet....Better to clean and reuse the original grommet instead of using the superceded troublesome grommet.
Yes I do remember what you are telling me. The locktite 518 is the equivalent to the OMC gel seal. The gasket sealer was the same color as the locktite I used on the gaskets and I did scrape the old gel seal off and cleaned the block with alcohol. I do think I put a little to much 518 on the block. Do you think I need to take it back a part and clean it off? I probably spent way to much time making sure the crank was in place. If I would have showed it all people would of been bored. And I did have to back up for the alignment Pin. I didn't show the pin being installed. I did make sure the grommet was in good shape and I will take your advice. Thanks again for sharing your years of experience and knowledge.
Thanks Jim
@@OmFishing i don't think that people who are looking to learn this process will get bored by you showing all the details, this is why we're watching so we can learn the details of the process. Please show them, there's a lot of novices out there. I appreciate taking the time to do this
@@jciam5135 I will make sure I don't leave them out next time. Thanks for commenting and watching. Stay Safe.
Love reading your comments.
@@jsetser001 You can see some of my videos under: Don K my other screen name....
That’s so much easier than those stupid ring compressors lol. I have two wedges I made out of iron wood that I ground down into wedges and put notches in the ends that are the same width as the ring is wide that fit into the ring slots. Work perfect. Think about grinding half of the tip of that clothespin off kinda is what I did with ironwood so it has a lip the ring sits in. Works great. I’ve done more bad than good with ring compressors. That I gave up lol. Great minds think alike.
Just like all your videos very very helpful. I enjoy sitting here and learning my question is that I have a 19 8815 horse Johnson, that I am rebuilding just finished up, honing the cylinders and starting to reassemble. So the only issue I have would be torque specifications, reassembling the motor, just wondering if you could help would greatly appreciate trying to keep cost down, but I know I can buy a manual which I don’t want to do. Thanks again and keep up the good work John.
the gel seal: only a thin 1/8'' bead on the crank flanges is all you need, since those areas are the only parts that need to be sealed. these motors really need to be bored and honed, as they are surely out of round. this might get you 100 hours of use as is, but if you really want it to last it needs bored. fun project though!
Thanks for keeping me straight.
Love all your videos and enjoy sitting here and learning. Please keep it coming. Thanks for all the knowledge just have a few questions on torque specifications. I’m redoing my old 15 horse Johnson, 1988 just like to know if you could send over some torque specifications rather than me spend more money than I already have. Trying to keep cost low would certainly appreciate. Thank you, John.
Great vids! "Don't get crazy"
Thanks for watching and commenting.
thanks, very interesting and useful video
Thanks for watching Stay Safe!!
Do I use a gel seal on the crankcase or no? It squished everywhere even inside the crankshaft. The crankcase wouldn't go on flush so when I torqued down everything it was flush. Is it suppose to bend like that?
When using the gel sealer I know that I used more than I needed to. A very small bead around it works fine. What part are you saying was bending?
What compression values are you expecting to get once you get this all together? I rebuilt a 1966 40hp last winter and did exactly the same thing you did using an existing piston and purchased a used one on EBay. New rings though and had very good results. Good luck and can’t wait to see her run.
I hope to get around 120 PSI. What compression did you end up with?
Om Fishing I got 123 & 125 psi
@@LivetofishOutboardRepair I sure hope this on is as good as yours. Thanks for the information.
Om Fishing when the machine shop evaluated your block what did they say about the cylinders? Slight wear? Was your honing job ok?
@@LivetofishOutboardRepair They said that they would like to put a little more cross hatch in them. They sad the cylinder was still well with in the standard did not need bored. I did not ask how much wear was on it over the original bore.
I have a question about making the gasket (very new to this):
I've heard that you're not supposed to use gasket maker to create a head gasket - think this had to do with having consistent pressure, an even surface, and maybe temperature concerns as well. But between the crank case and the block (around 17:00), is the temperature and/or compression not as much of an issue?
Thanks for the long form video - this is really helpful for anyone who didn't grow up working on engines with their moms and dads!
The engine block is in a negative pressure when the piston is going up the cylinder and on a positive pressure when coming back down. We are only talking about maybe 15 pounds. The head is anywhere between 80 to 110. I don't know that will not work, I have never tried it.
I found torquing to 48 then 52 then 58 works best. Sounds like over kill but an old man outboard rebuilder that taught me said never skip this step. Lol. He swore by triple torquing. And he would do it both ways in an x pattern from left to right then right to left. So twelve times.
Thank for sharing the tip!!
On a low compression engine do you just replace the ring with original size or do you use bigger ring? How do we know which size ring to use to fix low compression ?Do you have to hone the cylinder before putting in new rings?
You buy the rings for the size of the piston. If it is a standard. What came from the factory. You buy standard rings. If you bore the cylinder you would buy the over stock pistons and rings to the size the cylinder is bored to. Like .030 over stock. You would not put over stock pistons and rings in a stock bore. I hone the cylinders, but when I took the block to be checked they re hone the block on a machine. The honing of the cylinder is for lubrication of the piston and the cylinder wall.
Thumbs up are you going to paint it after all that rebuild it's due
Sure I think I will make it look almost new when I am done. Thanks for watching.
I saw you put the 518 on the head also,but did not mention that.Is it required to do that?Good video series so far.
I'm currently rebuilding my 87 15hp and I ordered some used pistons that come with the rods off of ebay. Is it ok to use the rods that the used pistons come with? When I tore my engine apart I marked top and bottom on the caps
Yes I used the rod on the pistons because, that is a pressed fit and It would be hard for someone with out the special tools to change them with out bending the piston. Good Luck
I’ve rebuilt 2 of these Johnson/Evinrude 15HP power heads out of necessity, typically because they’ve had salt corrosion clogging issues, but good compression, so I haven’t had to remove any pistons. I recently bought a pallet of 5 Evinrude 15HP motors (to kill time during covid) and tore into the first one. It had decent compression at around 85# each cylinder, but I decided to remove the pistons as the cylinders were a bit rusty (wanted to get in and deep clean). With the pistons removed I noticed the rings look unusually loose. I would appreciate your opinion in determining if this is normal or should I look into replacing the rings? Would you be open to me sending you a couple of photos? I really appreciate all of your videos, you are one of a kind.
Yes you can send me a photo
omfishing@yahoo.com
I would hone the cylinders and put new rings if the pistons are out. If you think the motor looks good other than that.
Om Fishing thank you very much. Email sent.
Hello how are you I am trying to find the same pistons rims part number that you show but I can't find it and that is the original One please let me know where you find it thanks and great video by the way
The rings I bought for this motor was from Boatnet.com. Some times they are slow shipping but they have what you need. Let me know how your build goes. Thanks for commenting.
So do the piston always come with the rod already installed as to prevent distortion when installing the pin? Thanks for the help and yet another great video sir
No I looked for a good used piston with the rod on it. It takes special tools to remove and reinstall the wrist pin on these pistons and not get the piston out of round. It would cost to much for me to buy the tool for one job. You can buy new OEM pistons for about $140.00 each about $50.00 for after market pistons. With out the rod on them. Either way if I mess it up it was going to cost. That is way I bought used.
Good question indeed. And the answer is "NO", all these pieces come separately. He found some nice "used" piston/rod assemblies. New pistons have wrist pin bores that are press fit/both sides. It is very difficult to assemble these pieces without distorting the piston skirts. The pistons must be heated, the wrist pins frozen, and somehow magically the wrist pin bearings had to be in place. The factory had special fixtures and jigs to get this job done, it is near impossible for us mere mortals to perform this task successfully. I don't understand why engineering felt this design was necessary, seems like "overkill" to me...
@@OmFishing well that kinda stinks. Does this apply to all outboards or just older ones?
@@bigred4802 I did my 2000 Johnson 15HP last year, and the wrist pins push out and back in tight but pretty easy by hand with a warmed up piston. What year was the motor in this video? Thanks.
Good video .can pls tell me why my Johnson fuel connecter is not connect ing. Do You think o ring is gone
When working on the fuel line you have to make sure the line has a good seal. I you are sucking air anywhere the engine will not run. The O-rings can be change in the fuel line connection. I don't try to change them for $5 you can buy the replacement. I have bought the cheap replacement end and it not connect to the OEM connector. Those ends get dirt on them and most of use connect it anyway. I am guilty myself. I am working on a E-tec right now with a fuel line sucking air. Thanks for commenting. Keep Watching!!
How do I figure out what size pistons and rings to order for my 15 hp Evinrude 2 stroke?
I just go to a suppler like boatnet.com and look up the part number and see where I can get the best price. Remember it takes a special tool to remove and replace the wrist pin in the piston with out distorting it. That is why I replaced my piston with one that had the rod in it.
Will 1 tube of 518 loctite be enough for the case?
Yes it was more than enough for mine.
Just a slight note. I know this is an older video. And im late to the party. When putting an engine together it always helps to put assembly lube on the journals where your crank contacted the engine block between the 2 cylinders. Im going to attempt to rebuild a Sea King 5hp. If I fail its no loss. Got it for free.
Be sure and let me know how it runs Thanks for sharing the information.
Thenks...
Thanks for watching and Stay Safe.
@@OmFishing repaired the engine .. wrong criteria .... cca 60 PSI work
ua-cam.com/video/7jsGFXF_TUY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/s2iMbZgzprE/v-deo.html
for now let so ....thenks
Super!
Oops ! I forgot brother Stay safe and take care.
I did
not mean head.Sorry.
Did you put the crankshaft seal in ?
Yes thanks for watching and commenting.
Well brother you're getting there, nice job. To much Loctite I think. sorry
I thought the same to much loctite. I will know for the next time. Thanks Harvey and stay safe brother.
@@OmFishing Take care brother.
Sorry my english is bad, I use google translate. How do I know if my Johnson 15 HP 1984 model no. J15 ECTR 1983 needs rings
0386279 RING SET, Standard
or 0386280 RING SET, .030 O.S.
THANKS
When you are rebuilding a engine. The cylinder bore from the factory is standard. If you or the person before you bored the cylinder .030 over standard then you have to get the bigger rings.
i used a thin beer can and tie wraps for a ring compressor urs was less time
That is a good idea. I did try to using a ring compressor and broken a ring. That was costly. That is why I did it the way I did. I could see the hole ring. What ever way works is good.
Haha that’s another pet peeve he had. Never torque to an odd number. If it said 65 he did 62. Always three pounds under. He swore that it would strip out aluminum lol.
That is the first I have heard that one. You are right if the torque wrench is wrong that could happen.
Entendi português
O meu tá com um defeito não quer ligar
Видео в зеркальном отображении,не знаю,почему
I don’t know exactly where your from,it’s not east Texas, or the skeeters would be eatin you up….some place in the country, chickens all the birds and pine trees from what I saw ….
I think his torque wrench was just worn out lol
Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe.
I meant the the other case half.
The gel seal is applied on only one side of the crankcase, usually the forward half...Too much gel seal will squeezed into the bearings and crankcase, plug up passages and not seal properly.... This step is super critical to assembly, do it wrong and the powerhead has to be separated again, and is a big mess.
kramden Ok. 👍
@@fleetwin1 That was way too much of sealant in the crankcase. Thin "film" is enough even if the surfaces are not 100% true.
Yes, you are absolutely correct. Like I say, sealing the crankcase halves properly is a detail often overlooked....There is nothing worse than seeing a crankcase leak once re-commissioned. And, like you say, too much is just as bad as not enough.
What the heck man...where is the last vid of the Johnson 15hp engine finally done and it successfully started and running???!! Disappointed:(
I know I left everybody disappointed on this one. The deal was I had the motor running in my test tank. A friend of my son came over and wanted to buy the motor. I said not for sale I need to finish my last vid on it. He pulled out enough cash he took the motor home with him. I did not think I would ever get a offer like that again on this motor.