Use 1/2 inch breaker bars to take off caliper bracket bolts. Also, wash and clean the rubber boots (seals) of the brake piston before pushing in back it.
if anyone has a problem with those screws, lowes has a Kobalt impact driver set for about $16. couldn't find the correct impact anywhere. it save me drilling them out. for being so hard to extract, the metal of these screws is soft. i stripped them out using a phillips. if you do need to drill them out, there are two other holes you can use by simply rotating the rotor, if you can get new screws.
Those two screws are not meant to be taken out with a phillips, but with a #3 jis crosspoint screwdriver , because those screws are #3 JIS screws. The Phillips screwdriver will just strip them.
The screws are made to the Japanese Industrial Standard, you need a bit to fit properly (Vassel screwdrivers has the proper bit) The Phillip bits you use are the wrong size!
Tthe important reason for ensuring the two disc securing screws are re-fitted is because w/out them ea time the wheel is removed, e.g., for a tyre change you run the risk of the disc coming away from the hub and allowing dirt/corrosion to enter between hub and disc faces. There may not be much but this in turn might cause runout, limit is only 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) and subsequently will affect the pads performance, cause poor tyre wear, steering judder, etc .
It's a good idea to lube the pins on the caliper mount so it slides correctly but they're not the same! remember which one has the bushing. I messed up and forgot which one was which and just used the other side as a guide. FF to 10min ua-cam.com/video/OlPvRa3_KGo/v-deo.html
Where do you put the jack stand? I'm using the jack point on the side to jack up the car but then where to put the stand if the jack is there? Are any other jack points?
I just had mine changed today and there is a little squeal. I saw them grease like everything but I did not specifically see them grease the piston thing. Could that be why it's squealing a little now? Amy other reason? Will it stop on its own,?
If they don't grease the point where the piston meets the back of the pads then yes it can potentially cause some squealing. However some metallic brake pads tend to squeal from time to time no matter what you do. But if they didn't grease the piston they should have.
I'd be seriously concerned that there are no securing screw holes for the brake disk. Also no pair of threaded holes in the new disks to screw in bolts if these disks are stuck on when they come to be replaced again.
The two screws are not securing screws, they are just there to hold the discs steady during the assembly stage on the production line, you can discard them completely.. the wheel nuts secure the discs... Also a simple matter to drill and tap a couple of holes in the new discs if they come without, the discs can be a pig to get off without those holes...
Great video thanks for uploading. Only thing I'd add would be to put some coppercoat grease on the bolt threads and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir as you compress the piston.
Could be a sign that your calipers need replacing. I had that happen on an old car where they rusted and the piston would not slide easily. It can cause your brakes to stick too and cause premature wear.
@@Andrewiffic thanks Andrew. Took it to a mechanic today. The pistons were pitted and damaged, so need to be replaced. I learned a bit from your video however! Perhaps next time I can do it myself!
I'm not sure because I've only had the vehicle for about 6 months and it already has over 100K kms on it. Personally I wouldn't worry about scratches if you're not getting any vibration but I am not a professional mechanic.
Use a breaker bar. RIP ratchet.
Thanks, I need to do this on my car just started to get the "squeak" and this made it look super easy.
Use 1/2 inch breaker bars to take off caliper bracket bolts. Also, wash and clean the rubber boots (seals) of the brake piston before pushing in back it.
And fill the pins and boots with silicon
if anyone has a problem with those screws, lowes has a Kobalt impact driver set for about $16. couldn't find the correct impact anywhere. it save me drilling them out. for being so hard to extract, the metal of these screws is soft. i stripped them out using a phillips. if you do need to drill them out, there are two other holes you can use by simply rotating the rotor, if you can get new screws.
Those two screws are not meant to be taken out with a phillips, but with a #3 jis crosspoint screwdriver
, because those screws are #3 JIS screws. The Phillips screwdriver will just strip them.
The screws are made to the Japanese Industrial Standard, you need a bit to fit properly (Vassel screwdrivers has the proper bit) The Phillip bits you use are the wrong size!
What about the Y separator spring?.......you did the job backwards more or less..........Z
Why did you not grease slide pins on back of calipers?
They were moving freely. But it doesn't hurt to grease them from time to time.
Tthe important reason for ensuring the two disc securing screws are re-fitted is because w/out them ea time the wheel is removed, e.g., for a tyre change you run the risk of the disc coming away from the hub and allowing dirt/corrosion to enter between hub and disc faces. There may not be much but this in turn might cause runout, limit is only 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) and subsequently will affect the pads performance, cause poor tyre wear, steering judder, etc .
Thanks that's a good point.
Use jack stands. Work safety
It's a good idea to lube the pins on the caliper mount so it slides
correctly but they're not the same! remember which one has the bushing. I
messed up and forgot which one was which and just used the other side
as a guide. FF to 10min ua-cam.com/video/OlPvRa3_KGo/v-deo.html
i've seen your comment on both videos i've watched so far lol imma be watching for the bushing.
Turning the front tire was not safe because even though I had blocks behind the rear tires the car rotated and fell off the stand.
Thanks for sharing. It will save me a lot by doing it myself.
No problem
Where is the jack stand placed?
Where the lower control arm meets the unibody. See at 20 seconds in
Why are brakes hard to loosen on a Honda Fit?
Where do you put the jack stand? I'm using the jack point on the side to jack up the car but then where to put the stand if the jack is there? Are any other jack points?
Hey you can find points where the lower suspension arms connect to the unibody.
I just had mine changed today and there is a little squeal. I saw them grease like everything but I did not specifically see them grease the piston thing. Could that be why it's squealing a little now? Amy other reason? Will it stop on its own,?
If they don't grease the point where the piston meets the back of the pads then yes it can potentially cause some squealing. However some metallic brake pads tend to squeal from time to time no matter what you do. But if they didn't grease the piston they should have.
Thanks. Showed me exactly what I wanted to see.
Can you give me de reference number of your calipers?!
You must be in an arid climate, I see no rust , no salt damage ? Where is the car used mostly ?
Up in the frozen north of Canada actually. See lots of snow and salt. There's plenty of underbody rust.
Anyone know the torque spec for the caliper bolts?
Think its 54
I'd say based on how hard he had to push to get them off, 205# hahaha and then add salt to the threads
What brake pads to do I need to purchase for my Honda Fit 2007? DO you know where i can find out?
Check with your local parts store. Canadian Tire, etc. Or RockAuto.com
I'd be seriously concerned that there are no securing screw holes for the brake disk. Also no pair of threaded holes in the new disks to screw in bolts if these disks are stuck on when they come to be replaced again.
The two screws are not securing screws, they are just there to hold the discs steady during the assembly stage on the production line, you can discard them completely.. the wheel nuts secure the discs... Also a simple matter to drill and tap a couple of holes in the new discs if they come without, the discs can be a pig to get off without those holes...
Great video thanks for uploading. Only thing I'd add would be to put some coppercoat grease on the bolt threads and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir as you compress the piston.
Zeriouslly Yes excellent points. Especially about checking the brake fluid reservoir level.
The placement of the tyre under the bumeper is here a specific reason?
I always put it under there as an extra fail safe if the car were to fall for any reason.
We did a brake job on the same car and the brake pedal is still spongy, not stiff at all.. brakes were also bled...any suggestions?
Spongy brake pedal almost always means that the brakes have air in the system and need to be bled. Maybe they need to be bled more?
@@Andrewiffic Also, make sure you have "new" or good brake fluid. Old fluid will break down, etc.
👍👍👍👍
Thank You bro 👍
Man, I'm not sure why but my Cylinders won't push back in that easily.
Could be a sign that your calipers need replacing. I had that happen on an old car where they rusted and the piston would not slide easily. It can cause your brakes to stick too and cause premature wear.
@@Andrewiffic thanks Andrew. Took it to a mechanic today. The pistons were pitted and damaged, so need to be replaced. I learned a bit from your video however! Perhaps next time I can do it myself!
Remove the cap from your master cylinder......the air now has a place to go.
Why was it necessary to change a rotor? Did you feel steering wheel shaking while braking?
Yes exactly, I felt vibration in the steering wheel and the brake pedal when braking.
I see! How many miles are on the rotors you were replacing? The rotors on my Fit are having some circular scratches close to the hub.
I'm not sure because I've only had the vehicle for about 6 months and it already has over 100K kms on it. Personally I wouldn't worry about scratches if you're not getting any vibration but I am not a professional mechanic.
Thanks again!
No worries.
Where did you buy the brake pads?
Adrian Penn www.RockAuto.com. great site.
Nice video, but I do wish you would have provided the torque requirements for the bolts.
Thank you for this video. Did you use any brake cleaner on any parts?
No I didn't. Nothing was overly dirty.
I need the information for a 2016 Honda Fit because I can’t find the pads to buy online
This is for a 2008 Honda Fit.
This is for a 2008 Fit.