xv750 starter clutch spring problem identified and modified without removing spring. Yamaha, xv1000

Hi. I've carefully observed the action both with and without the spring, finding that many times the spring ends up caught on the sliding path and not allowing full gear travel on cranking. The spring in this bike appears to have already been cut down. the gears on one side are worn but it's a symmetrical assembly and casing allows flipping it and engaging the holding tab deeper.
Reset the spring gently and fradually to sit on the gear's outer boss, ensuring the other end curves to match it's original seat, and now it cannot possibly become squeezed between the gear and the stop boss.
I've just been advised other gear faces arent factory hardened!
Hmmm, not impressed if that's the case :(
We're discussing it now. The rubber spring seats are not needed anymore anyway, so maybe heat and quench to treat is the way to go.
I'll post an update re how this will crank.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Somewhere around 1995, Yamaha revised the technical drawings of all the Viragos from those years on - the spring is no longer shown in the drawings. If you look anywhere for parts (idler gear #1 and #2) are no longer sold and have been replaced by a new set that can only be purchased together (part number is 3LP-W1551-00-00). Like the drawings (from 1995 on) and the later model 750/1100's, the spring has been removed entirely. The Gen 2 bikes (84+) have a proper mechanical solenoid with shallow cut idler gears but with the return spring. The spring causes "bounce back" sometimes popping the gears out of engagement with the flywheel. Just a heads up about hardening - the flywheel gear is hardened but the outer ring of the idler gear #2 is not hardened. This is done intentionally so that any wear will be on idler gear #2 and not the flywheel. The idler gear is easy and inexpensive to replace - the flywheel is not.

[@graemelogan1214]

I like what you're saying about the spring spacing and getting maximum travel on the gear, but do NOT tell people to flip the gear over. Yes, physically it "fits", but the back side of the gear teeth are not hardened, no machined, just not meant to engage with the flywheel. This wears down the flywheel and very quickly causes a much more expensive and difficult problem to fix.

[@paulfrancis5728]

also you will find that the engagement side of the gear the teeth are bevelled a bit the help with engagement, but well done mate I think that mod is sound, I will keep it in mind when I re assemble the drowned rat that I'm restoring.

[@johnwhauserman]

The gear you have is the new model that's corrects the problem the first gen bikes had, and does not need the spring at all. The twist on the old gear was to fast.