I can’t thank you enough for this video and all of your wisdom and experience. I’ve been watching your videos for years and finally have my own HD38. Thank you for your efforts and instruction, I don’t know where I’d be without you! Ha.
Hi Dave, just to say that you are an absolute legend. There is no way I could have put my HD38 together without your fantasic instruction films. The Norwood instructions are ok, but leave out so much and the cross references to parts are sometimes baffling (or don't exist). The key thing about your films are that they give you the confidence to believe that what you have done from the instructions is correct. Following on, the maintenance and cutting instructions are also great. Really good work - hope you're getting paid for this effort.
Thanks for the kind words about the video. How's the sawmill build coming? Leave another comment if you have any specific questions and I'll try to help you out. Once you get to making sawdust, there's no turning back!
Building the mill was quite a project! Hope others will chime in with their experiences & advice. I'll monitor this video and answer any questions I can.
@@chriswahl5167 Hmmm, maybe I oughta look into making manuals for IKEA, too. I am working with Norwood to get the manual updated. Hope everything goes smoothly for your moving forward. Keep me posted on your milling.
A manual for a machine of this complexity is bound to have a glitch or two. I'd welcome your input, as well. Would love to have more info on your graphic design expertise.
I wish the gang from Possum Lodge would show up (along with Red Green)-- I'd love to meet 'em! As for me, I don't care whether women find me handy or handsome... as long as the find me!
Hi, Dave, my brother just bought a HD38 and we are just starting the assembly and thank goodness for your video. I wish we had a DVD since we have limited internet where he is assembling it. It would make it much easier to pause and review as we go. Really great video of setting it up, so far just the rails have been done. Maybe Norwood would pay you for those videos to put in each order. Thanks again for your narration and video.
Hey Dave I finally got around to finishing my mill a couple months ago and cut my first log a couple weeks ago after almost a year of getting it . Those guide blocks you put on look like they slid alot nicer than the ones I have I had to Force them on and saw head won't lower very smooth it hangs up on one side. Any pointers besides waxing the uprights I've done that already.
Congratulations on your new mill. Sounds like building it was a long journey for you, but once you start making sawdust, it's well worth it! Try loosening the 8 bolts that hold the guide blocks in place (10:47 in the video) on each side. If they are too tight, they will compress the plastic against the upright pieces. I've heard several reports of this problem. You might also make sure that the cables are winding evenly on the winch. Good luck... let me know if this solves the problem.
going in to week 7 waiting for my 38 full hydraulic,no word yet. have had a 36 manual, other than the power lift i added for 5 years got about 800 hours on it
Hope it arrives and you get it up and running soon. Some sawmill manufacturers have over a 2-year waiting period! Right now, pretty much all manufacturers-- especially those dealing with steel components are facing real supply challenges. If you've been running a 36, you'll love the 38. The sawhead design gives a much deeper cut, and the blade guide system has been completely re-designed.
This has been the worst experience. I have the HD36V2 and the manual doesn't match the mill. The directions don't match the actual boxes or parts bags. This video has helped a little but the HD38 is just a little too different. Plus I don't have hydraulics. Disappointed with Norwood the company, but your videos again have helped.
John, I'm sorry to hear that. I assembled the original HD36 mill about 6 years ago, and can't imagine putting it together without a proper manual. I'm wondering if you got sent a wrong manual. Does the cover specifically show the HD36V2? The first video of the series (assembling the frame) should work for your mill. The video I made back in 2016 might help somewhat: ua-cam.com/video/kDR_0K-spvY/v-deo.html. I'd be glad to help with any specific questions, though I haven't assembled the 36V2. Good luck to you, and hang in there. It'll all come together, and be well worth the effort!
@@daveboyt6810 Please help lol!We bought the HD36V2 and the manual that they sent doesn't match!Apparently we also have and extended carriage too!It has five instead of the four cross beam sections!
@@natural4lifemiss I'm a bit perplexed about the manual. Does the cover show a picture of the HD36V2? If not, you were sent the wrong manual (unlikely, but it could happen). There are two possibilities with the 5th cross beam section. You may have an extended track, or you may have ordered an extra crossbunk. If you have an extra crossbunk, put it half-way between the first and second crossbunks. It will come in handy if you get logs shorter than 8'4" (I highly recommend it).
Here's my question the deck will go up and down with no issues then it will stop going up and sometimes come down checked spools, cables, levels etc, then it will all of a sudden start working it's not the motor now today the blade started diving for no reason it's not my first mill this Norwood is not working out hd38 max any thoughts someone now mentioned to shim the deck blocks the black plastic sleeves really brand new not 20 hours and I have to do that
Surely we can figure this out. As far as the carriage moving up and down, the first thing is to loosen the bolts holding the guide blocks (15:18 and 15:40 in the video). If they are too tight, they can compress and distort the plastic guide blocks enough that they won't slide smoothly on the uprights. I applied paste wax to the uprights to help them slide more smoothly, too. The next thing to look for is any place where the cable came off one of the pulleys. I've had the cable come off and get caught between the pulley and the pulley frame, and that kept the sawhead from moving up and down smoothly. Finally, watch the cables wind onto the winch shafts. They should wind smoothly with no kinks or crossovers, and wind onto both shafts exactly the same. When the sawhead is down and there is a little slack in the cable, raising it should pull slack out of both cables at the same time. I don't know why any shims would be necessary. There is always a reason the blade dives. You might have hit metal and damaged the blade. Or you might have sap buildup on the blade. Have you tried changing blades? How are you tensioning it? Are the guide rollers adjusted ok? As you run the mill, the belts settle into the pulleys and that can change the blade alignment a bit. Or you might just be milling some gnarly logs. Knots and changes in the grain direction within the log can cause the blade to dive a bit. On both counts, please let me know what (or if) you figure out. I'm sure that once you get it lined out, you'll love the mill. It has some very impressive capabilities!
Hello Dave I spoke with Amanda at Norwood excellent customer service rep. Through her Norwood sent me a winding winch upgrade kit with spool cones just like yours and installed both sides against the bearing flange as directed NOT the shaft flange also was two brackets that move the top pulley closer to the winch shaft, moved the saw head up and down a couple times the controller now starts to move saw head deck when dial is on Turtle , thank you so much for your knowledge and fantastic videos when it gets warmer will run the mill for a couple days to see if I have the kinks out of it thanks again
@@chuckcanham699 Glad Amanda was able to help you. I've heard good things about her. Check the instructions on page C-36. Note that the top photo shows the spacer cone on the non-operator side is against the flange bearing, and the middle photo shows the spacer cone on the operator side is against the flange on the shaft. I know it sounds weird, but that was the only way I could get the cable to wind evenly on both sides of the spacer cone. I tried both spacer cones against the flange bearing, thinking the instructions were wrong, but sure 'nuf, the pictures show the correct placement! Just keep an eye on the winch as you wind it up, and I think you'll see what I mean. I believe I mis-spoke on the video about the spacer cone placement, but actually showed mounting them correctly. Looks like you're getting close to making sawdust-- keep me updated.
Dooley noted Dave in the paper work they sent me it says to put both spools against the Bearing flange which I did will give it a go and see how it works if not than do it the way u did NOS against bearing flange and the OS against the shaft flange note in my kit I have two brackets orange one for each side brackets that replace where the top removable pulley that is secured by a scissor pin, they get mounted to the orange round tubing that is secured to the uprights by the top plate they Move the pulleys closer to the spools and I think have more of a vertical direction for the cable, not sure if u have them or not and if not preps that is or could be the reason why possibly my spools will work against the bearing flanges time will tell cold here in Canada so not sure how much milling time I will get in is there any advantage or disadvantage to milling frozen logs? Thanks Dave again CC
@@chuckcanham699 Yeh, sounds like you got an upgrade I wasn't aware of. Sounds like you've got a good handle on it. Not much to milling frozen logs, once you get 'em on the mill. A lot of people go to 7 degree or 4 degree blades if the logs are frozen inside-- blades seem to last longer, as ice can be abrasive. Takes logs a long time to freeze, and a long time to thaw out.
I love your videos - been watching them since we ordered our HD38 back in January - after a week of do and redo :D we are now down to installing the digital scale which I can't figure out for the life of me how to install and mount on the HD38 - the manual is useless - several models are listed and none are the HD38 - on top of that it's just pictures in grayscale with no words - hieroglyphics LOL - any help would be appreciated
If you're in the Ozarks, you might be fairly close to me! I live near Neosho, about 60 miles west of Springfield. Maybe we could put our heads together and figure it out. I bet Norwood would love a video. You can contact me at: dboyt.42 at gmail dot com.
Hi Dave I assembled my HD 38 a few days ago I went by the manual assembling the spools u did yours opposite to the manual is there a reason for that the operators side is to be put to the the bearing and the non operators side is to the flange let me know thanks great video
??? I just double-checked the video and the manual. Time point 19:56 shows the correct position of the spacer cone against the flange on the non-operator end of the winch shaft, as described on page C-36 of the manual (though the winch shaft is turned end-for-end on the video), and time point 22:27 shows the correct position for the operator side, as shown on page C-38. I know it seems like they should both be set the same but trust me-- this works! If you do it any other way, the cables won't wind onto the winch shaft evenly, and the sawhead will not lift straight. If you have any question, please send a follow-up comment, and I'll try to get back to you more quickly. Hope this helps!
Thanks Dave I noticed your spools look differently to mine purchased it fall of 2021, yours seem thinner maybe a little longer hard to tell in video forsure they are contoured differently, haven't run the saw here in Canada as it is full on winter, if it continues to stick I will take it apart and do as you did, and let u know how that works another question ?? The saw head only starts to raise if I have the controller almost to the rabbit logo is this normal ??? Thanks Dave
@@chuckcanham699 Yikes! You may have the wrong "spools" (I believe Norwood refers to them as "spacer cones"). It sounds like the ones you have are the ones shipped on the first HD38 mills, which Norwood changed. I'd advise you to contact their customer support and explain to them that you received the wrong spacer cones for your mill. They should replace them at no cost to you. The larger ones will not lift the sawhead properly. If you run into any snags, let me know.
Hi, Byron, it is pretty similar, but the sawhead platform itself is different. Norwood will soon be posting a video on assembling the 36V2. I did a video on assembling the original HD35, and it might be more useful to you. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/kDR_0K-spvY/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/qN75JDeefMY/v-deo.html Let me know how it works out!
Assembling the track is exactly the same. The sawhead platform and blade guides are different, but the uprights and lift winch are pretty similar. Norwood will be putting up a series of videos for the HD36 in the near future. Good luck, and let me know if I can answer any questions.
I can’t thank you enough for this video and all of your wisdom and experience. I’ve been watching your videos for years and finally have my own HD38. Thank you for your efforts and instruction, I don’t know where I’d be without you! Ha.
Hi Dave, just to say that you are an absolute legend. There is no way I could have put my HD38 together without your fantasic instruction films. The Norwood instructions are ok, but leave out so much and the cross references to parts are sometimes baffling (or don't exist). The key thing about your films are that they give you the confidence to believe that what you have done from the instructions is correct. Following on, the maintenance and cutting instructions are also great. Really good work - hope you're getting paid for this effort.
Thanks for the kind words about the video. How's the sawmill build coming? Leave another comment if you have any specific questions and I'll try to help you out. Once you get to making sawdust, there's no turning back!
Building the mill was quite a project! Hope others will chime in with their experiences & advice. I'll monitor this video and answer any questions I can.
Agreed! The process was a big one to get this assembled. This video would’ve been tremendous as the manual was worse than an IKEA furniture manual.
@@chriswahl5167 Hmmm, maybe I oughta look into making manuals for IKEA, too. I am working with Norwood to get the manual updated. Hope everything goes smoothly for your moving forward. Keep me posted on your milling.
@@daveboyt6810 it’s funny because I’m a graphic designer and thought about reaching out to Norwood about updating the manual
A manual for a machine of this complexity is bound to have a glitch or two. I'd welcome your input, as well. Would love to have more info on your graphic design expertise.
@@daveboyt6810 btw your videos are an absolute help!!! Please keep it up! Would love to get you out to my place in NY.
I can help but feel like I’m watching Red Green narrated assembly video. I half expect the gang from possum lodge to show up and start trouble.
I wish the gang from Possum Lodge would show up (along with Red Green)-- I'd love to meet 'em! As for me, I don't care whether women find me handy or handsome... as long as the find me!
Hi, Dave, my brother just bought a HD38 and we are just starting the assembly and thank goodness for your video. I wish we had a DVD since we have limited internet where he is assembling it. It would make it much easier to pause and review as we go. Really great video of setting it up, so far just the rails have been done. Maybe Norwood would pay you for those videos to put in each order. Thanks again for your narration and video.
Hey Dave I finally got around to finishing my mill a couple months ago and cut my first log a couple weeks ago after almost a year of getting it . Those guide blocks you put on look like they slid alot nicer than the ones I have I had to Force them on and saw head won't lower very smooth it hangs up on one side. Any pointers besides waxing the uprights I've done that already.
Congratulations on your new mill. Sounds like building it was a long journey for you, but once you start making sawdust, it's well worth it! Try loosening the 8 bolts that hold the guide blocks in place (10:47 in the video) on each side. If they are too tight, they will compress the plastic against the upright pieces. I've heard several reports of this problem. You might also make sure that the cables are winding evenly on the winch. Good luck... let me know if this solves the problem.
Looks like Big & interessing Puzzle👍😉
Yeh... After the building the mill (this is my 4th sawmill build), I bet I could put an Ikea bookshelf together blindfolded!😃
going in to week 7 waiting for my 38 full hydraulic,no word yet. have had a 36 manual, other than the power lift i added for 5 years got about 800 hours on it
Hope it arrives and you get it up and running soon. Some sawmill manufacturers have over a 2-year waiting period! Right now, pretty much all manufacturers-- especially those dealing with steel components are facing real supply challenges. If you've been running a 36, you'll love the 38. The sawhead design gives a much deeper cut, and the blade guide system has been completely re-designed.
This has been the worst experience. I have the HD36V2 and the manual doesn't match the mill. The directions don't match the actual boxes or parts bags. This video has helped a little but the HD38 is just a little too different. Plus I don't have hydraulics. Disappointed with Norwood the company, but your videos again have helped.
John, I'm sorry to hear that. I assembled the original HD36 mill about 6 years ago, and can't imagine putting it together without a proper manual. I'm wondering if you got sent a wrong manual. Does the cover specifically show the HD36V2? The first video of the series (assembling the frame) should work for your mill. The video I made back in 2016 might help somewhat: ua-cam.com/video/kDR_0K-spvY/v-deo.html.
I'd be glad to help with any specific questions, though I haven't assembled the 36V2. Good luck to you, and hang in there. It'll all come together, and be well worth the effort!
@@daveboyt6810 Please help lol!We bought the HD36V2 and the manual that they sent doesn't match!Apparently we also have and extended carriage too!It has five instead of the four cross beam sections!
@@natural4lifemiss I'm a bit perplexed about the manual. Does the cover show a picture of the HD36V2? If not, you were sent the wrong manual (unlikely, but it could happen). There are two possibilities with the 5th cross beam section. You may have an extended track, or you may have ordered an extra crossbunk. If you have an extra crossbunk, put it half-way between the first and second crossbunks. It will come in handy if you get logs shorter than 8'4" (I highly recommend it).
Hey John I also purchased the HD 36 V2 and I am about to assemble the carriage I hope I have a better experience any advice you can give me?
Here's my question the deck will go up and down with no issues then it will stop going up and sometimes come down checked spools, cables, levels etc, then it will all of a sudden start working it's not the motor now today the blade started diving for no reason it's not my first mill this Norwood is not working out hd38 max any thoughts someone now mentioned to shim the deck blocks the black plastic sleeves really brand new not 20 hours and I have to do that
Surely we can figure this out. As far as the carriage moving up and down, the first thing is to loosen the bolts holding the guide blocks (15:18 and 15:40 in the video). If they are too tight, they can compress and distort the plastic guide blocks enough that they won't slide smoothly on the uprights. I applied paste wax to the uprights to help them slide more smoothly, too. The next thing to look for is any place where the cable came off one of the pulleys. I've had the cable come off and get caught between the pulley and the pulley frame, and that kept the sawhead from moving up and down smoothly. Finally, watch the cables wind onto the winch shafts. They should wind smoothly with no kinks or crossovers, and wind onto both shafts exactly the same. When the sawhead is down and there is a little slack in the cable, raising it should pull slack out of both cables at the same time. I don't know why any shims would be necessary.
There is always a reason the blade dives. You might have hit metal and damaged the blade. Or you might have sap buildup on the blade. Have you tried changing blades? How are you tensioning it? Are the guide rollers adjusted ok? As you run the mill, the belts settle into the pulleys and that can change the blade alignment a bit. Or you might just be milling some gnarly logs. Knots and changes in the grain direction within the log can cause the blade to dive a bit.
On both counts, please let me know what (or if) you figure out. I'm sure that once you get it lined out, you'll love the mill. It has some very impressive capabilities!
Hello Dave I spoke with Amanda at Norwood excellent customer service rep. Through her Norwood sent me a winding winch upgrade kit with spool cones just like yours and installed both sides against the bearing flange as directed NOT the shaft flange also was two brackets that move the top pulley closer to the winch shaft, moved the saw head up and down a couple times the controller now starts to move saw head deck when dial is on Turtle , thank you so much for your knowledge and fantastic videos when it gets warmer will run the mill for a couple days to see if I have the kinks out of it thanks again
@@chuckcanham699 Glad Amanda was able to help you. I've heard good things about her.
Check the instructions on page C-36. Note that the top photo shows the spacer cone on the non-operator side is against the flange bearing, and the middle photo shows the spacer cone on the operator side is against the flange on the shaft. I know it sounds weird, but that was the only way I could get the cable to wind evenly on both sides of the spacer cone. I tried both spacer cones against the flange bearing, thinking the instructions were wrong, but sure 'nuf, the pictures show the correct placement! Just keep an eye on the winch as you wind it up, and I think you'll see what I mean. I believe I mis-spoke on the video about the spacer cone placement, but actually showed mounting them correctly. Looks like you're getting close to making sawdust-- keep me updated.
Dooley noted Dave in the paper work they sent me it says to put both spools against the Bearing flange which I did will give it a go and see how it works if not than do it the way u did NOS against bearing flange and the OS against the shaft flange note in my kit I have two brackets orange one for each side brackets that replace where the top removable pulley that is secured by a scissor pin, they get mounted to the orange round tubing that is secured to the uprights by the top plate they Move the pulleys closer to the spools and I think have more of a vertical direction for the cable, not sure if u have them or not and if not preps that is or could be the reason why possibly my spools will work against the bearing flanges time will tell cold here in Canada so not sure how much milling time I will get in is there any advantage or disadvantage to milling frozen logs? Thanks Dave again CC
@@chuckcanham699 Yeh, sounds like you got an upgrade I wasn't aware of. Sounds like you've got a good handle on it. Not much to milling frozen logs, once you get 'em on the mill. A lot of people go to 7 degree or 4 degree blades if the logs are frozen inside-- blades seem to last longer, as ice can be abrasive. Takes logs a long time to freeze, and a long time to thaw out.
I love your videos - been watching them since we ordered our HD38 back in January - after a week of do and redo :D we are now down to installing the digital scale which I can't figure out for the life of me how to install and mount on the HD38 - the manual is useless - several models are listed and none are the HD38 - on top of that it's just pictures in grayscale with no words - hieroglyphics LOL - any help would be appreciated
If you're in the Ozarks, you might be fairly close to me! I live near Neosho, about 60 miles west of Springfield. Maybe we could put our heads together and figure it out. I bet Norwood would love a video. You can contact me at: dboyt.42 at gmail dot com.
Hi Dave I assembled my HD 38 a few days ago I went by the manual assembling the spools u did yours opposite to the manual is there a reason for that the operators side is to be put to the the bearing and the non operators side is to the flange let me know thanks great video
??? I just double-checked the video and the manual. Time point 19:56 shows the correct position of the spacer cone against the flange on the non-operator end of the winch shaft, as described on page C-36 of the manual (though the winch shaft is turned end-for-end on the video), and time point 22:27 shows the correct position for the operator side, as shown on page C-38. I know it seems like they should both be set the same but trust me-- this works! If you do it any other way, the cables won't wind onto the winch shaft evenly, and the sawhead will not lift straight. If you have any question, please send a follow-up comment, and I'll try to get back to you more quickly. Hope this helps!
Thanks Dave I noticed your spools look differently to mine purchased it fall of 2021, yours seem thinner maybe a little longer hard to tell in video forsure they are contoured differently, haven't run the saw here in Canada as it is full on winter, if it continues to stick I will take it apart and do as you did, and let u know how that works another question ?? The saw head only starts to raise if I have the controller almost to the rabbit logo is this normal ??? Thanks Dave
@@chuckcanham699 Yikes! You may have the wrong "spools" (I believe Norwood refers to them as "spacer cones"). It sounds like the ones you have are the ones shipped on the first HD38 mills, which Norwood changed. I'd advise you to contact their customer support and explain to them that you received the wrong spacer cones for your mill. They should replace them at no cost to you. The larger ones will not lift the sawhead properly. If you run into any snags, let me know.
Also, the smaller diameter spacer cones increase the mechanical advantage of the winch, making it more responsive to the speed control.
@@daveboyt6810 thanks so much for the advice will keep u posted will call tomorrow on the spool issue great thanks cc
Is the carriage assembly for the HD 36v2 the same as the HD 38 assembly
Hi, Byron, it is pretty similar, but the sawhead platform itself is different. Norwood will soon be posting a video on assembling the 36V2. I did a video on assembling the original HD35, and it might be more useful to you. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/kDR_0K-spvY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/qN75JDeefMY/v-deo.html
Let me know how it works out!
What about the hd36?Is it almost the same?
Assembling the track is exactly the same. The sawhead platform and blade guides are different, but the uprights and lift winch are pretty similar. Norwood will be putting up a series of videos for the HD36 in the near future. Good luck, and let me know if I can answer any questions.
Any videos for the hd36v2 yet?