Jimmy Diresta Bandsaw Restoration 21: Machining a New Upper Wheel Shaft with a Tapered Spindle
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- Опубліковано 11 тра 2023
- Jimmy Diresta Bandsaw Restoration 21: Machining a New Upper Wheel Shaft with a Tapered Spindle
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I haven’t watched in a long time. Holy crap Keith you are looking awesome!
Thanks for continuing this Keith! As someone that neither works with their hands, or lives in a country with access to such an array of vintage machinery, I've really appreciated the channel. Hope you and the family are doing well!
if it'll inspire, there's many who do spectacular things with hacksaw, blowtorch, handdrill and files, third keith(appleton) for instance.
This is a really interesting explanation of how the taper attachment works. Seems you can dial in as much precision as you need abd a really nice demo of hand lapping. Jimmy's gonna love how smooth this whole thing works. We're all glad to see this project continuing--this really is VINTAGE.
I sure hope Jimmy appreciates the time and effort you are putting into this restoration. The shaft taper is a thing of beauty and precision.
I suspect that he actually does not appreciate the time that it has taken - over one year and counting LOL
Keith is doing it to promote his channel, because of Jimmy's channel popularity, and there's nothing wrong with that.
The first thing he does is paint his name on it.
Glad to see some movement on the bandsaw. Also glad it moved the horizontal borer project forward. Seems like it made a "round-to-it"
That was very interesting and informative. Great Job!
Really excited to see this project come back around! It's been a while!
Hey Keith, thanks for your channel and website. Got to tell stories now, my coworkers would roll their eyes about now. Guy down the road was making some rolling dies, came to me to get some hss tool bits, I had some unsharpened nos bits. He asked how big of a cut he could take with his 14 inch Monarch with a 7 1/2 motor, it was up sized from 5. I have a 12x30 hendey with a 5hp running on an undersize homegrown phase converter. Chucked up a good sized chunk of mystery steel, 4340 or such about 2 inch, good rate of speed plenty of feed, touched off one turn of compound, .200 per side. Kicked on feed and thought he was going to hit the dirt. Ha, loved it. Blue chips flew. These old girls were made to move metal.
Way back when I was running a Lodge and Shipley cutting steep taper threads for the oil fields. Don't remember anything to tighten down, just attachment to bed, loosen crosslide, give lots of room to take up slack. Maybe I didn't know what I was doing but I cut a lot of tapered threads, got payed piecework. Frankly best pay I ever got. 100 bucks a day back in 1982.
My Hendey taper attachment has a binder nut on it, Lodge and Shipley I ran probably was the same as your Monarch, I didn't know better, just gave it more travel to take out slack, hey I had to back out of cut at end of thread.
Keep putting out videos.
Exciting to see progress on this again.
You look good and even better you look like you feel good 👍
I had completely forgotten about the bandsaw. Jimmy must be very patient.
He can afford to be,, he has several of these saws already.
Keith,
My world of tapers is that of large ship rudders and propellers. The American Bureau of Shipping requires a 70% contact area. I witnessed the bluing of propeller shafts and rudder stocks. I was taught that the contact area should be near 100% at the start and finish of the taper, and to find a reduction in the center.
If we found contact similar to the pattern you found an effort would be made to increase the contact in the center.
For this bandsaw I would be really happy. To make sure there a good fit a relief in the form of a counter bore in the nut will help assure the shaft is pulled up snug. If there are issues getting the wheel and shaft do not slip a key can always be added.
Bob
This taper is so shallow that it won't take much torque to apply tremendous force to the interface and stretch the hub to fit. The fit as shown seems perfectly adequate for this application.
interesting explanation of how the taper attachment works.
Looking forward to you spinning those bandsaw wheels on the horizontal borer
Fascinating!
Wish my lathe had a taper attachment. But make do with the compound. I checked and Micro Surface is still in business. Located in Oakland, CA. Thanks for sharing.
Looks GREAT! Thanks!
Love this!
Thank you for sharing.👍
Great work Keith!
Another interesting video. Thanks Keith.
Yet another excellent video.
Thanks Keith for a great video......lots of learning!!!
Amazing job as usual Keith 👍👍
An inspiration as always. Thanks Keith
👍👍 looks great, nice job!
Great job Keith 👍👍
Good to see progress commencing on Jimmy's bandsaw. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Keith, good stuff as always!
Looking good Keith 👍👍
At last a bandsaw update !!!!!
Keith love your channel, just to say you seem to be regularly putting out YT content, I have a taper attachment on my Colchester lathe but never used it, I’m going to give it a try after seeing your video 👴🏻👍
Looking good brother.
Good morning Keith. Been looking forward to getting back on the bandsaw. Thanks for all the work.
Thanks Keith
Quality content and presentation, which the norm for Keith.
Wow. Its been awhile since I have seen Keith and now I don't see as much of him as I used to.
The bandsaw is back .. this is great!
I love the way you describe what you are doing and the expected outcome.
Looking good Keith...your'e a man on a mission!
Good Morning Keith! 😊
YEA!! Been waiting to see you get back here! I enjoy all of your videos, but wanted to see this band saw come to life. Take care, sir.
"Hi Jimmy... yeah, sure I can restore this band-saw for you. I just have to build an entire machine first. Then I'll be all set up for it!"
Awesome !
Great project Keith. Taper fit is important and lapping is a proven method for getting maximum contact. I retired from the overhead crane industry and fits on taper bores for brake wheels needed to be >90%. If I remember right it was a GE publication that I found that in.
Thanks for sharing.
KEITH GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...LET'S GO TO WORK...
Thanks for showing how to square up a workpiece in a 4 jaw chuck. As a non-machinest it was a nice refresher. Same with the details on the taper attachment, I always enjoy learning from your videos!
Nice job on the shaft. Should work well. You are looking good Keith and loosing weight.
Great work. The groves are where the Diresta stenciling should be applied.
Dead on balls accurate. It's an industry term. Keep up the good work and videos Keith.
Dead nuts is American for "Dead to naughts (zeros)" from Scottish engineers of the steam days.
@@markbernier8434 you may have missed that it’s a movie quote. The film is My cousin Vinny
@@Grunttamer Totally missed that lol. Haven't see the flick since theaters.
Thanks Keith for another great video, It good to know when good is good enough. Thanks for taking the time to make these video. A personal note you are doing well on you weight loss, it's hard I know am doing the same.
Yeah, you look GREAT! Keep doing whatever you're doing.
Good video, Keith. I use med. Valve grinding compound for lapping.
Gary, me too. I think more than I ever used it for valve grinding.
You are looking better!
Very nice, as a hobbyist I have yet to cut a critical taper. Watching your technique is a special opportunity.
Nice video. I suppose it would be quite "thrilling" to engage the cross-feed mechanism while the taper attachment is in place :)
Hi Keith. This is another Keith hear on the Isle of Wight in the U K. Thanks for such wonderful Video's, they are full of usefull info. One thing, Have you lost a lot of weight. You look far better, hope all is O K.
Wow I was thinking about the saw . But now I’m excited to see what you going to do with it on the boring mill . But still another great video
If you set up the shaft between centers in the HBM you could powerlap the taper to the wheel hub.
Ok so I have been working for the last year and thought I would catch up with the build I have gone from episode 15 to this one... And there is definitely some changes around the shop! Gotta say Keith you are looking very trim.
Looking forward to actually getting to this video. I have some catching up to do! A JD bandsaw play list would be great.
Finally caught up! Really looking forward to the finished product!
Keith, next time spray some WD-40 or just "anything like that" (diesel fuel or such) onto the rust, that'll keep this rust-dust down. Costs nothing, will help you to keep your workplace bit cleaner.
Engineer would say keep lapping, experienced machinist knows it will be better than good enough. Thanks for the video.
The rings inside the tapered bore are most likely put there on purpose as this allows the griping force between the two parts to increase due to the reduced surface area.
next stop for the wheel Engels Coach Shop for some new wood...
I would use the new weld positioner to power lap it.
Someone has lost weight and looking well!
The light rings might be oil rings that a light layer can keep the two metals from atomic merging in rust or atoms.
Lap that to perfection the parts might never come apart. The OE manufacturer had a good idea how those tapers should fit.
Well done. Thanks for explaining why building up the old axle likely wouldn't work.
Time 10:00. Centrering in the 4 jaw. Using the indicator moving half the top nto top value and not using trial and error looks great, being a novice in the game.
About the taper attachement. How do You disconnect the ordinary screw control? Just thinking how that can be done on the mini lathe... No such magic screw here....
Time 18:50.... Some kind of technic used for centrering in the 4 jaw ought to work?
Thanks for an interesting and inspiring video.
One step closer to restoration complete. Do you have an estimated completion date? This is going to be one beast of a bandsaw. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
👍⭐
I've been wondering about this and the stoker engine
The stoker engine is dead and buried. RIP stoker.
@@ellieprice363 i figured but I really enjoy when Keith works on steam equipment so i was cautiously hopeful
That Stoker engine's spray welding buildup wasn't very well done, you could see it breaking up when Abom was trying to machine it in one of his older videos.
Great video.
I presume you checked for taper as you turned the 1 15/16" diameter?
Wow you lost a lot of weight! Hope you doing well!
I wonderd where the bandsaw project went!
Outstanding job Keith.
I think that taper is great.
Really nice overall job.
What type of material was the new shaft material?
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
I believe he said 1018.
@@ellieprice363 Thank you.
I watched the whole video, must have missed that.
Have a great day.
Keith, great video
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! May I ask where do you source the TimeSaver lapping compound? Thanks
have io missed some thing here you are looking quite trim kieth
I see those same rings at 27:07. Are you sure it's the hub? Not that it matters. The fit looks just fine. Maybe the next guy gets it out more easily in about another century.
I would like to see the stoker engine project again when do you think it will get back in the line up
It’s way too early over here in Idaho 🤷♂️
I believe the bore was reamed, not turned on the lathe. Rings are probably tool marks...Never went back in with a "Finishing reamer"
I suppose it doesn't make any difference but I wondered why you changed to turning the shaft between centers and cutting the taper at the headstock end instead of cutting it at the tailstock end with the shaft gripped in the 4 jaw chuck. Was it easier to change from the original shaft to the new shaft using the centers?
Disculpe vi su película y me gustaría que agregara más episodios y yo soy un niño y mr gustaría salir en su serie Tengo 8 años vivo en México
Been looking forward to this for a while.
Wouldn't the 2" stock fit down the spindle? It would have improved rigidity.
Two inches is a pretty big thru hole for a lathe that size, probably lucky if it has an inch and a half thru hole. It would be nice to shorten it up while he’s turning it though.
@@Hoaxer51 Hi Tim. Yeh. I don't know anything about Keith's lathe. I was thinking along the lines of CEEs lathes but that's just another dimension isn't it.
@@passenger6735, CEE’s lathe is a beast! Lol
liked for algorithm
It appeared to me that the old shaft was a more accurate fit and while that is an indication that the new shaft wasn’t quite there yet, both shafts didn’t seem to have an accurate taper. You should start by cleaning all the old grease out of the female taper and get a good even register with the blueing so you don’t have to guess whether it’s grease pushing the blueing or if the grease is wiping off the blue.
I'm convinced Keith could eat an elephant if he needed to.
Can you cut the taper from the small end toward the big end. ?
I bet a flame spray weld would've fixed that original right up. This and that other shaft you welded recently would've been an awesome time to collaborate with Abom
Yes it would have worked but taken longer traveling back and forth. I believe Keith took the wiser course on this one by making a new shaft.
Question. why not measure the difference from the high end of the taper to the low end. then use a dial indicator to measure the same distance from the center pivot and adjust that amount? I've always asked this question to myself when I see machinist use taper attachments.
I am a bit curious why the worn shaft area could not have been trued up, and the new bearings adjusted accordingly and reused the shaft.
In my view, because to true up the old shaft, the diameter would decrease by a minimum of 0.1" (per Keith's rough measurement) but likely more. Shafts under torque under go torsional stress and the smaller the polar moment of inertia, the higher the stress.
Now I do suppose you could calculate the stress, using likely torsional loads & etc.
But from a practical standpoint, being that this is a machining channel and not an engineering channel, we should accept that the engineer who designed this bandsaw did the engineering. We should trust that result.
Accordingly, the shaft diameter should be per design.
I agree with Keith. Remake the shaft
Unless I'm mistaken this is the shaft for the bandsaw's upper wheel. There's no torque here. It's an idler wheel. The torque will be in the lower wheel shaft between the motor and the lower wheel. This puts the blade tension directly to the cut (where the blade is moving downwards) and minimizes it elsewhere (where it is not needed). The taper in the upper wheel - shaft connection is merely to preserve alignment and prevent wobble.
Why not use one of your lathes with a 2" thru hole and get rid of the steady???
the reason for the rings are it brakes the contact so when you try to remove the wheel it is an interference and not a full contact
Man lapping that by hand looked hard and time consuming. Would it be easier to have the axle clamped to something standing vertical and then just spin the wheel on top with great easy leverage and let gravity do the work? Or would it just jam up and you gotta take a trip to the hydraulic press lol.
Think about that. That giant wheel probably weighs 250 lbs. Keith looks pretty strong but I doubt he’d want to muscle it up in the air and set it down on the shaft.
@@ellieprice363 Didnt know they was that heavy, he's still got his A-frame lift though
Like you said it would likely jam up very quickly. Also too much chance of wobble due to the size of the wheel. Better to do it the way he did. Nothing wrong with a bit of elbow grease.
Awesome job and video! I've seen you pour Babbit bearings before, but im looking forward to watching again! Keep up the great work! Cheers from southwestern Indiana!
I think that weird pattern shows how they possibly made the shaft and hub, step cutting the taper because they didn't have a better way to cut a taper, then just even it out by hand....or.... they did have a way to cut a taper and the cutter had a chip out of it so minor no one noticed. Why ever the pattern is there? Its clear as day at 36:16, almost like you cut that pattern on the new shaft.
Sort of looks like the pattern created when you pull a boring bar back out and the spring in the tool leaves a spiral marking.
Keith, you look in good shape! Have you lost some weight?
Maybe you could ask Engels Coach Shop to make a new rim for the wheel!
cant you zero an indicator on one end of the taper, run the carriage to the far end, and then move the taper till it zeros?
How many drills could a drill chuck if a drill chuck could chuck drills
I hope I can be forgiven for noticing something personal, a very good thing, about Keith: I think he has lost weight. Weight is dangerous, more than is commonly known. I hope it's true. He is a good guy. And tapers are fun. Cheers.
Interesting concept. However, when you use lapping compound, you are basically trying to fix the areas that are not touching properly. So wouldn't you only apply the lapping compound to the already touching areas and not the entire taper? IDK but that would cut the areas touching allowing the untouching areas get close to the bore... Just my thinking...
Dude, think about what you just said. How do you know in advance what parts will touch? If you put compound on the entire taper, the parts that touch will be lapped and the parts not touching won't. As the parts get closer to a perfect match, more of the surface will be ground until finally all of it will be in contact.
@@Craneman4100w Good explanation. Not everyone has the experience to think about things.