I've been running a mill and a lathe for about 40 years and can do setups in my sleep (not really), but explaining what and how to do it like Mr. Rucker can is an art unto itself. I know I couldn't do it, kudos to a good teacher!
Keith, I think that I agree with several other commenters about marking the end of this thread as "LH" or similar. However, I _really_ wish that you had modified that cutoff tool to have had (honed) radii to avoid leaving stress risers in the new shaft for future owners to deal with. I'm certain that such a tool would come in handy in future jobs in your shop!
Thank you for sharing. Thank you for showing the step by step on cutting left-hand threads, watched and as always enjoyed it. Keep up your dedication to your UA-cam channel have learned and enjoyed your channel for many years. Gary👍
Thanks Keith for the left hand threading lesson, excellent job as always. I really enjoyed all the different camera angles, that really helps in understanding all the steps and what you’re actually doing with your hands during those steps. This video would be a great primer for anyone who wants to learn cutting threads, either left hand or right hand threads. Thanks for leaving in the part where your halfnut doesn’t engage perfectly, I was just wondering what you’d do if it didn’t engage right. So thanks for leaving that in. Wishing you and yours and everyone else a Happy New Years!
Great teaching video! Gave instructions for the person who's never cut a thread before, but threw in a couple of nuggets for the more experienced people!
I really appreciate how good of a problem solver Keith is. I feel like I learn as much about metal turning as I do how to think through out a challenge.
Thanks for taking the time from your busy life to share this knowledge with the rest of us. Oh where were you when I was taking the first year of college machine shop. I've learned so much more from you, Keith F, Adam, Brian, Dave R, at old time steam, and Curtis with Cutting Edge Machinery in Australia, and his dog Homey, and so many more.
When making a non-standard thread I always make the nut first. It is a lot easier to test the fit using the nut than trying to test the internal thread using the shaft. Also using standard thread with an easily obtainable nut would make it easier for later repairs if necessary. But I must add this was a fantastic tutorial on thread cutting.
I agree. He should have made the nut first, especially since it’s non standard left hand to be fitted to the long heavy shaft. It will be interesting to see how he does that. I’m guessing he’ll need to machine a short shaft with L.H. threads to use as a thread gage.
@@ellieprice363 Yes, a short thread gage for the nut. Now you can make a spec nut. But the shaft will be in spec too because it gets measured directly. So no need for the nut except for the satisfaction of screwing it on. Unless you want a nut that has minimum clearance (like a thou or two instead of .003/.007 probably, just guessing). A tight custom fit is nice.
Happy new year! I find this channel to be inspiering and interesting even though I am a wood worker by trade. Good craftsmanship is universal. Someone would benefit from being your - apprentice.
Nice job.. I bought a 9"A benctop and I love it! I am also working on decruding an early 40's 16" tool room South Bend. I can't wait to get it all cleaned up and back in service.
Great lesson in threading Keith, when this is project is completed and time goes by (40-50 years) and were not around to warn the next person that takes this machine apart,...would it be appropriate to stamp LH on the end of the shaft?
Left handed nuts usually have a groove cut in them do indicate that, just look at your oxy set, fuel gas is left handed. I have seen mechanics tricked by left handed threads on wheel nuts on left side of trucks.
Definitely easier for everyone to label it. However I always try to check the angle of the threads when dissembling rotating parts if there is one thread you can see. Down to left or right. Has saved me before,lol.
@@ThAtGuY-u9d If all nuts were undone by engineers, not such a problem. If turning a nut doesn't loosen it but tightens it, it's a sure sign of a left hand thread. You just need a sensitive enough feel to detect that.
Much the best tutorial on thread-cutting I've seen yet. The thread dial was the missing link for me personally - no-one seems to cover this. Simple and obvious when you know how, but baffling for a beginner to hear people refer to a 'dial' and a 'number' without ever putting it in context or showing you what they're talking about. I now feel confident enough to actually try it myself - thank you!
Great video. It brought me back to the mid 1980’s when I used to have an old 21” Monarch. The most stressful work that I did on that lathe was doing 3-1/2 inch internal Acme thread at 4 threads per inch. You really have to watch carefully then disengage the screw, and move the carriage forward a couple of turns simultaneously. All very nerve racking at the speed needed to get good results in aluminum. I don’t miss that much but enjoy seeing you working and explaining to us how and why you are doing it. Thanks.
You can put slight pressure on the threading lever just before the number you want to engage on and the carriage will slide into engagement of the feed screw. No need to worry about missing a number or slamming into engagement. Thanks for the vid!
Quite a nice introduction. The debate about 30deg, 29.6deg, or straight in goes on and on. The best argument I have heard for 29.5 over 30 is that it insures both thread flanks are smooth in a world with inevitable errors in the tool angle, compound angle, tool setup, and so on. A few minutes here and there should be less than the 0.5 degree. The internal stop for threading is so nice. I miss my old lathe that had it (Pacemaker), so I made a drawscrew type for my current lathe (better than the clamp type that grabs the cross slide ways, in my opinion)
It doesn't go on in the machine shops I have worked in, never seen anyone angle the compound to cut a thread besides on UA-cam, at trade school the teacher told us about it but never did it. You can work out the ratio to move the compound to keep it cutting on one side or after a few hundred threads you just wing it like every machinist I know does. The reasons I don't angle the compound is that you can't just work out the depth and go straight to it, for large threads you can't clean up both sides and if you're using the compound for widths or lengths you would have to move the compound every job. For a hobbyist it isn't even something to argue about, the end result is the only thing that matters, not efficiency, so whatever works for you.
In high school we feed on the cross side only. The problem with that as you said you're cutting on both sides of the tool and you have twice as much surface touching. It doesn't cut as smooth and your much more likely to chatter. It wasn't till I was out of school I learned the method you used. My machiest hand book has a chart that shows both the cross feed number and for the compound method. The common thread pitch gage has the double depth number for the cross feed depth. There is a formula for converting that number for the compound method. I like to use the nut that is going to be used but you didn't have that. Another way to check is by using thread wires but are tricky to hold properly. Your thread is the way to go. Very nice job the way. In high school all our lathes had quick change gear boxes so I got spoiled from the start. Change gears will do just as good a job but the time get them setup . And you have a stack of gears to put away somewhere.
Pitch dia. for 1 1/4-10 2a fit is 1.184max to1.177min rounded up which i do to be safe in tolerance. Since you are making the nut and it is not standard going to the other shaft and getting your measurement works too. Have to agree with others that the nut should have come first. To each their own and it will workout either way.
Thanks for the details, Keith. I'm new at learning to use a metal lathe (a cheap, little-bitty hobbyist bench lathe, but a lathe none the less) and this helps me understand it tremendously. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Keith for another very informative video. Hope you had a great Christmas, and from mine to yours and all your watchers and subscribers, a very, happy, safe and prosperous 2022. J.C Liverpool, UK
Keith, this is one of my favorite videos of yours! Threading thoroughly explained with great camera work. Have a great 2022. Best wishes to you and all your family.
I was taught to do the undercut first leaving it 5 thou over core/root diameter. Then you can keep cutting until you just witness onto the undercut then do your measurements and final fine cuts. Afterward go back and take the undercut a little under core/root.
I've been running a mill and a lathe for about 40 years and can do setups in my sleep (not really), but explaining what and how to do it like Mr. Rucker can is an art unto itself. I know I couldn't do it, kudos to a good teacher!
Happy New Year to you and your family
Engaging video! Happy New Year!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Thanks for the lesson Keith!
Great job explaining the process, thanks
Thanks for the tutorial Keith!
Happy new year from Canada
Great video as always, thanks JB San Diego
A lot of video effort in this one - different camera angles and good explanations of what you were doing :)
Thanks Keith!
Thanks for Sharing...
Great video!
Another job knocked out!
That was very helpful. I will try it for fun.
that 0 stop is a great feature, i wish my machine had one for sure
Great threading sequence. Most just show the cut when newcomers really need to see the coordinated lever action. Nice job.
Thank you for your wonderful instruction! Happy New Year!
Thanks for showing all the knobs and levers at the beginning. Not all of us know how all these levers and knobs work.
Thank You !
Happy New Year!
Mr Rucker Happy new year
Great video. Happy & Healthy New Year Keith.
THAT Monarch lathe is a Sweet Heart.
HAPPY NEW YEAR, PET OR TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, SEE YOU ALL NEXT YEAR...
great detail .thanks
My Xmax present. Great video.
So much fun...
I recently watched a video you made of doing a left handed thread at the museum for a blacksmith drill of sorts
Happy new year
Happy New Year
Happy New Year
Happy New Year Keith
Great info👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I may not ever do this operation, I'm over 50 years of age, but I appreciate all that talk/instruction
Hiya Keith
Happy New Year Mr Rucker
A master class in left hand threading!
Thank you Keith , good teacher!
Excellent job on this overview. The explanations and camera angles are fantastic!!!
Even though I don't own a metal lathe or have the knowledge how to set them up, I love watching your work Keith.
Keith, this has been an awesome series of lessons! Greatly appreciated. Thanks for being a great instructor!
Happy New Year, Everyone!
Kool watchin ya work the controls on that M
Great explanation of the lathe settings. I'd like to see more of that type of thing on other machines. Thank you.
Always like threading on the lathe.Jimmy should have a great saw when done. HappyNewYear!
One can almost imaging J.D. watching these videos with rapt interest.
Keith, I think that I agree with several other commenters about marking the end of this thread as "LH" or similar. However, I _really_ wish that you had modified that cutoff tool to have had (honed) radii to avoid leaving stress risers in the new shaft for future owners to deal with. I'm certain that such a tool would come in handy in future jobs in your shop!
Thank you for sharing. Thank you for showing the step by step on cutting left-hand threads, watched and as always enjoyed it. Keep up your dedication to your UA-cam channel have learned and enjoyed your channel for many years. Gary👍
Myself being completely ignorant on machining I appreciate seeing how it is done, thank you
Thanks Keith for the left hand threading lesson, excellent job as always. I really enjoyed all the different camera angles, that really helps in understanding all the steps and what you’re actually doing with your hands during those steps. This video would be a great primer for anyone who wants to learn cutting threads, either left hand or right hand threads. Thanks for leaving in the part where your halfnut doesn’t engage perfectly, I was just wondering what you’d do if it didn’t engage right. So thanks for leaving that in. Wishing you and yours and everyone else a Happy New Years!
Great teaching video!
Gave instructions for the person who's never cut a thread before, but threw in a couple of nuggets for the more experienced people!
always a pleasure to watch you working
I really appreciate how good of a problem solver Keith is. I feel like I learn as much about metal turning as I do how to think through out a challenge.
Thanks for explaining the correct way to cut left hand threads.
Thanks for taking the time from your busy life to share this knowledge with the rest of us. Oh where were you when I was taking the first year of college machine shop. I've learned so much more from you, Keith F, Adam, Brian, Dave R, at old time steam, and Curtis with Cutting Edge Machinery in Australia, and his dog Homey, and so many more.
When making a non-standard thread I always make the nut first. It is a lot easier to test the fit using the nut than trying to test the internal thread using the shaft. Also using standard thread with an easily obtainable nut would make it easier for later repairs if necessary. But I must add this was a fantastic tutorial on thread cutting.
In his last video, Keith said he didn't have the correct stock for the nut.
I agree. He should have made the nut first, especially since it’s non standard left hand to be fitted to the long heavy shaft. It will be interesting to see how he does that. I’m guessing he’ll need to machine a short shaft with L.H. threads to use as a thread gage.
Brilliant. I'm putting that tip in the mental toolbox. Thank you.
...that's the TRUTH-!!!
@@ellieprice363 Yes, a short thread gage for the nut. Now you can make a spec nut. But the shaft will be in spec too because it gets measured directly. So no need for the nut except for the satisfaction of screwing it on. Unless you want a nut that has minimum clearance (like a thou or two instead of .003/.007 probably, just guessing). A tight custom fit is nice.
Thanks for allowing us to look over your shoulder Happy New Year🤗😎🤗😎
Much appreciated lesson, great camera angles! No room for errors, need to bring your A game on this task
Happy new year! I find this channel to be inspiering and interesting even though I am a wood worker by trade. Good craftsmanship is universal.
Someone would benefit from being your - apprentice.
This whole series has been fascinating so far. Hope to see another major restoration like this soon.
I really appreciate the extra time and explanation while you created these threads Keith. Thank you.
Nice job.. I bought a 9"A benctop and I love it! I am also working on decruding an early 40's 16" tool room South Bend. I can't wait to get it all cleaned up and back in service.
Excellent teaching video Keith!!
Excellent explanation and camera work
Excellent instructions Keith, great video, keep'um coming..
I bought an Asian made mill/drill, and I'm patiently waiting for it's arrival. I'll be a beginner at this, so I'll learn by doing.
Great place to start. That was my first machine too.
I love the color of that lathe, classic!
Double Boost does left hand threading without even trying to.😁
I saw that funny video. He cut LH internal threads in a big aluminum shaft two different ways thinking they were RH.
Keith, thanks for another great video!! It good to see a threading lesson simple but right to the point.
Well explained video on left hand thread cutting. Thanks for the video.
Very instructive. Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
A really good instructive video with all the different camera standpoints. Thanks for the great work!
Another interesting and informative production. Happy new year everyone from Switzerland.
Great lesson in threading Keith, when this is project is completed and time goes by (40-50 years) and were not around to warn the next person that takes this machine apart,...would it be appropriate to stamp LH on the end of the shaft?
Couldnt agree more. Had that been done originally it would have saved Keith a bunch of time and work.
Left handed nuts usually have a groove cut in them do indicate that, just look at your oxy set, fuel gas is left handed.
I have seen mechanics tricked by left handed threads on wheel nuts on left side of trucks.
Definitely easier for everyone to label it. However I always try to check the angle of the threads when dissembling rotating parts if there is one thread you can see. Down to left or right. Has saved me before,lol.
@@dennisleadbetter7721 It would be different if all vehicles were the same. It doesn't help that they're not !
@@ThAtGuY-u9d If all nuts were undone by engineers, not such a problem. If turning a nut doesn't loosen it but tightens it, it's a sure sign of a left hand thread. You just need a sensitive enough feel to detect that.
Nice work Keith.
As always great job Keith. Very informative, I always learn something watching your videos.
Much the best tutorial on thread-cutting I've seen yet. The thread dial was the missing link for me personally - no-one seems to cover this. Simple and obvious when you know how, but baffling for a beginner to hear people refer to a 'dial' and a 'number' without ever putting it in context or showing you what they're talking about. I now feel confident enough to actually try it myself - thank you!
I was confused by that as well. Finally understand now.
Check Abom79 @ ua-cam.com/users/Abom79 he shows how this is done.
@@philipmackin1025 Thank you, I will.
thank you Keith. really great to see that Rucker-restored Model K in action
Why didn;t you make nut first to test fit? Good video on threading.
Thank you for taking out some of the mystery of single-point left threading! I love that lathe!
Great video. It brought me back to the mid 1980’s when I used to have an old 21” Monarch. The most stressful work that I did on that lathe was doing 3-1/2 inch internal Acme thread at 4 threads per inch. You really have to watch carefully then disengage the screw, and move the carriage forward a couple of turns simultaneously. All very nerve racking at the speed needed to get good results in aluminum. I don’t miss that much but enjoy seeing you working and explaining to us how and why you are doing it. Thanks.
There is no stress if you cut it "backwards" >> so you are cutting away from the chuck.
Appreciated the detailed explanation on how to setup the lathe.
Great job of threading. I think I would have made the nut first though. Thanks for the video.
You can put slight pressure on the threading lever just before the number you want to engage on and the carriage will slide into engagement of the feed screw. No need to worry about missing a number or slamming into engagement. Thanks for the vid!
happy new year , looking forward to a bunch of new stuff !!!!! glad you are feeling better !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Besides the awesome machines, I learn lots of new stuff every time I watch one of your videos.
Great explanation. Thanks for posting this.
Quite a nice introduction. The debate about 30deg, 29.6deg, or straight in goes on and on. The best argument I have heard for 29.5 over 30 is that it insures both thread flanks are smooth in a world with inevitable errors in the tool angle, compound angle, tool setup, and so on. A few minutes here and there should be less than the 0.5 degree. The internal stop for threading is so nice. I miss my old lathe that had it (Pacemaker), so I made a drawscrew type for my current lathe (better than the clamp type that grabs the cross slide ways, in my opinion)
It doesn't go on in the machine shops I have worked in, never seen anyone angle the compound to cut a thread besides on UA-cam, at trade school the teacher told us about it but never did it. You can work out the ratio to move the compound to keep it cutting on one side or after a few hundred threads you just wing it like every machinist I know does. The reasons I don't angle the compound is that you can't just work out the depth and go straight to it, for large threads you can't clean up both sides and if you're using the compound for widths or lengths you would have to move the compound every job. For a hobbyist it isn't even something to argue about, the end result is the only thing that matters, not efficiency, so whatever works for you.
In high school we feed on the cross side only.
The problem with that as you said you're cutting on both sides of the tool and you have twice as much surface touching.
It doesn't cut as smooth and your much more likely to chatter. It wasn't till I was out of school I learned the method you used. My machiest hand book has a chart that shows both the cross feed number and for the compound method. The common thread pitch gage has the double depth number for the cross feed depth. There is a formula for converting that number for the compound method. I like to use the nut that is going to be used but you didn't have that. Another way to check is by using thread wires but are tricky to hold properly. Your thread is the way to go.
Very nice job the way.
In high school all our lathes had quick change gear boxes so I got spoiled from the start.
Change gears will do just as good a job but the time get them setup . And you have a stack of gears to put away somewhere.
Keith
That was very helpful. I will try it for fun.
The image quality and lighting in the video is excellent
Happy New Year.
Frank
Pitch dia. for 1 1/4-10 2a fit is 1.184max to1.177min rounded up which i do to be safe in tolerance. Since you are making the nut and it is not standard going to the other shaft and getting your measurement works too. Have to agree with others that the nut should have come first. To each their own and it will workout either way.
Loved the detailed sequence for thread cutting.
Great job. Thanks for showing and explaining for this non-machinist.
Thanks for the details, Keith. I'm new at learning to use a metal lathe (a cheap, little-bitty hobbyist bench lathe, but a lathe none the less) and this helps me understand it tremendously. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Keith for another very informative video. Hope you had a great Christmas, and from mine to yours and all your watchers and subscribers, a very, happy, safe and prosperous 2022. J.C Liverpool, UK
Great tutorial! Thanks, Keith!
Thank you for teaching
Pretty work Keith.
Keith, this is one of my favorite videos of yours! Threading thoroughly explained with great camera work. Have a great 2022. Best wishes to you and all your family.
I was taught to do the undercut first leaving it 5 thou over core/root diameter. Then you can keep cutting until you just witness onto the undercut then do your measurements and final fine cuts. Afterward go back and take the undercut a little under core/root.