Hi James, Can I add a few ideas, to add to your good presentation, based on my own experience and a critical need to avoid working below the fixed baseboards? 1. Colour code all wires to every point motor as an aid to trouble shooting. Yellow & White to drive the solenoids (Connections A&F). - White for ‘Normal’ & Yellow for ‘Reverse’, the Branch Route. Brown for common (C) Red (+ve) Black (-ve) Green for Frog (‘cos frogs are Green!). 2. Solder all wires to PM1, before fitting to baseboard and sleeve & extend the point frog wire in green. 3. Mark hole for the tie bar, after fixing point blades centrally between the stock rails, using a track pin,with the head cutoff. With the point removed also mark a hole to take the frog wire thru the baseboard. 4. If possible fit the PM1 before fitting the point and with the aid of a jig (or paper template) mark the 2 holes to secure the point motor. 5. Drill 3mm holes for frog wire and fixing screws PLUS a 10mm hole below tiebar. Countersink the 2 fixing holes. 6. I found that by tapping the existing fixing holes in the PM1. 4BA (Or 3.5mm) It was possible to attach the prewired PM1 to the underside of the baseboard using 4BA CSK screws without the awkward struggle under the boards. As further security slip a full nut on each CSK screw. 7. As you also identified don’t let a Dremill anywhere near the point tie bars! 8. Visit the Brian Lambert web site to access great colour coded wiring diagrams for ALL type of points, both DC and DCC formats. This site also details the construction of a very good CDU at a fraction of the cost of the very good commercial products. Please accept this comment in the spirit in which it is posted as a further aid to our fellow modellers in this wonderful hobby, Best Regards, Tony 🚂
Nice video buddy, well done on getting them all to work. Cheers for the demo, CDU makes such a difference 🙂 Just been doing the same for my layout for my latest upload … Cheers, Ivi
Hi James, I've just discovered this video and it's proving very helpful in wiring my own points and SEEP motors. I'm a bit puzzled how to connect the middle wire from each of the switches to the single wire that connects to the positive side of the CDU, likewise the wires from each switch that go to the negative side of the CDU. I have eight points in total and there must be an easier way than just twisting all eight wires together. I'd be grateful if you could talk me through how you did yours, please.
For the negative/return wires from the point motors, connect them to a 12 way chocolate terminal block and daisy chain wires on the other side so all the terminals are connected, then have one wire running back to the CDU. For the positive feed to the switches, connect all the middle terminals together on the back of the control panel so you only have 1 wire going from the CDU to one of the switches which then feeds the others.
I was wondering if you live local to the severn valley railway because your subscribed to then and on the 21st I think of augest I'm going to too Shrewsbury Friday to Friday and it would be cool to meet you if so! Edit: I can't go but I might be going to Telford?
That's great James. Are you going to be taking this to exhibitions with a second fiddle yard on the other end? Or is it just a fun project to mess with some ideas and hone your skills?
Hi James, Can I add a few ideas, to add to your good presentation, based on my own experience and a critical need to avoid working below the fixed baseboards?
1. Colour code all wires to every point motor as an aid to trouble shooting.
Yellow & White to drive the solenoids (Connections A&F). - White for ‘Normal’ & Yellow for ‘Reverse’, the Branch Route.
Brown for common (C)
Red (+ve)
Black (-ve)
Green for Frog (‘cos frogs are Green!).
2. Solder all wires to PM1, before fitting to baseboard and sleeve & extend the point frog wire in green.
3. Mark hole for the tie bar, after fixing point blades centrally between the stock rails, using a track pin,with the head cutoff.
With the point removed also mark a hole to take the frog wire thru the baseboard.
4. If possible fit the PM1 before fitting the point and with the aid of a jig (or paper template) mark the 2 holes to secure the point motor.
5. Drill 3mm holes for frog wire and fixing screws PLUS a 10mm hole below tiebar. Countersink the 2 fixing holes.
6. I found that by tapping the existing fixing holes in the PM1. 4BA (Or 3.5mm) It was possible to attach the prewired PM1 to the underside of the baseboard using 4BA CSK screws without the awkward struggle under the boards. As further security slip a full nut on each CSK screw.
7. As you also identified don’t let a Dremill anywhere near the point tie bars!
8. Visit the Brian Lambert web site to access great colour coded wiring diagrams for ALL type of points, both DC and DCC formats.
This site also details the construction of a very good CDU at a fraction of the cost of the very good commercial products.
Please accept this comment in the spirit in which it is posted as a further aid to our fellow modellers in this wonderful hobby,
Best Regards,
Tony 🚂
Good job. If you run into clearance problem again you can always get a sharp chisel and carve the wood away rather than cutting point motor.
Nice video, I'm probably going to have to fit some point motors on my layout at some point too so this will probably come in useful
Glad I could help
Nice video buddy, well done on getting them all to work. Cheers for the demo, CDU makes such a difference 🙂 Just been doing the same for my layout for my latest upload … Cheers, Ivi
Hi James, I've just discovered this video and it's proving very helpful in wiring my own points and SEEP motors. I'm a bit puzzled how to connect the middle wire from each of the switches to the single wire that connects to the positive side of the CDU, likewise the wires from each switch that go to the negative side of the CDU.
I have eight points in total and there must be an easier way than just twisting all eight wires together. I'd be grateful if you could talk me through how you did yours, please.
For the negative/return wires from the point motors, connect them to a 12 way chocolate terminal block and daisy chain wires on the other side so all the terminals are connected, then have one wire running back to the CDU.
For the positive feed to the switches, connect all the middle terminals together on the back of the control panel so you only have 1 wire going from the CDU to one of the switches which then feeds the others.
Nice one James! 👍🏻
Cheers
I know I've already commented but what happend to oakfield?
I was wondering if you live local to the severn valley railway because your subscribed to then and on the 21st I think of augest I'm going to too Shrewsbury Friday to Friday and it would be cool to meet you if so!
Edit: I can't go but I might be going to Telford?
Bro do you exist anymore. Joking of course, I’m sure there’s a good reason for your absence
Hi
Please can you tell me the type of couplings you are using and did you make the birch tree ?
Hi steve. Theyre smiths 3 links and not that particular one. I usually make them but that one came from ebay i think.
That's great James. Are you going to be taking this to exhibitions with a second fiddle yard on the other end? Or is it just a fun project to mess with some ideas and hone your skills?
It's just something to play about with but I've made it so it can be taken to exhibitions if I choose to
Hello, love the terrier review, so smooth. What controller do you use to get the little gem to move like that?
Thank you. I think I used a gauge master combi for that one
I always wondered why you brits like tea with milk o.O
Because we make it correctly