You should remove nozzle while it's hot. MK8 nozzles are the right ones for creality stock heat block. The quality settings in slicer 0.12/0.2 and etc is the layer height, not the size of the nozzle bore. The stock nozzle is 0.4 and if you have to a 0.2 nozzle you need to change the nozzle size setting in your slicer.
For some people, 0.6 mm nozzles are better than 0.4 mm nozzles. But 0.4 nozzles are standard. Also, you can increase the Layer Height in your slicer to print things faster. This does decrease the resolution of the print a little. If you are just prototyping, then you can print at 0.25 mm Layer Height. If the part, you are prototyping has and parts that need to be precise then I would prototype on 0.2 mm layer height. I hope this helps you.
As others have said, always remove the nozzle and heat-break (the other part you broke) when the heater block is at the printing temp of the material you last printed, this also causes expansion which further makes removing the parts easier. Also tighten them when hot, otherwise when the heater block expands there will be a small gap that will cause leaks and inevitably a jam. You can use a screw extractor to remove the parts or you can use a rotary tool and cut a slot in the broken parts and use a screwdriver to remove the parts when your heater block is hot, just be sure to use heat-proof gloves and/or hold the heat block with a wrench. The standard nozzle size for the vast majority of consumer printers is 0.4mm, 0.2mm nozzles are for fine details and smaller than I would use on an FDM printer, If I want fine detail, small parts I will print with a resin printer. 0.2mm nozzles will be more likely to jam, slower and you may be unable to print materials that have fill in them, such as CF, wood, some marble filaments, metal fill etc. I recommend using a 0.4mm, 0.5mm or 0.6mm nozzle for most functional prints and 0.3mm or 0.2mm for small fine detailed prints.
There's no such thing as "broken". There is only "needs a few new parts". You can salvage that heat block. All you need is a screw extractor. Heat the bock up and you should be able to back those pieces out with no problem.
Next time your nozzle is clogged, try the ‚cold pull‘ method to clean it, instead of removing it. Fixes it in most of the cases without any effort. For a 0.4mm nozzle some 0.3mm acupuncture needles can be very handy, too. Some printer manufacturers even add one or two to the accessories.
Heat it up before removing it. If you are set on removing the broken part, get yourself a set of left handed drill bits, heat up the part using a torch, then use the left handed drill bit to spin it out.
Needs to be very warm/hot when unscrewing nozzle. Also, use thermal compound to help the heater block transfer heat more efficiently(layers of air molecules between where the nozzle screws into the heater block...between threads needs paste to heko transfer heat).
That's the thing with these inexpensive open frame 3d printers. They are almost entirely made up of off the shelf parts that you can replace or modify to your heart's content!
Many people are talking about heating it up before removing the nozzle. It goes without saying that you should also “hot tighten” it when replacing nozzles
I have recently just gotten a 3d printer, exactly like yours, and so glad I saw this video before I have to do a nozzle change!! Thanks for sharing your experience!!
I've changed my hotend on my ender 3 before because I thought my nozzle was STUCK. It wasn't. I was just turning it the wrong way. After like, a year, I finally got two new hotends, and both leaked like it was nobody's business. I even MADE SURE everything was tight. So I had to change back to the original once I got the nozzle out, and now it's leaking too after like, a month. I hate creality sometimes.
@@uk1tech Trust me, it's user error the vast majority of the time. A lot of people that buy these machines are beginners and will make mistakes, I was one of them once.
What type of ender 3? Did it have a PTFE lined hotend or an all metal hotend? Was it bowden or direct drive? I only ask because I may be able to help solve the issue. If all these parts had the same issue it's unlikely that it is the fault of the parts themselves.
@@Smokinjoewhite Oh I kinda got it fixed, it is a ptfe lined one, and to stop it from leaking out the top I put some teflon tape on the heat break threads and I figured out you have to heat up your hotend before you put on your nozzle because I have no idea why. But I would still like to know how I might be able to fix it in the future because that was HELL. But I also plan on switching to the spider ceramic hotend. So Idk how it'll work on there.
The number in your slicer, 0.12, 0.16 etc is the LAYER HEIGHT, NOT THE NOZZLE SIZE. You should have ordered 0.4mm nozzles. With the 0.4mm, you can use any of these LAYER HEIGHT numbers. Hope this helps.
Regarding the nozzles, quality in the slicer refers to verticale resolution. You should have ordered 0.4mm nozzles as this is the standard size and referes to the width of the lines it prints if that makes sense. Happy to help if you need it.
get a realy small hex wrench heat it up as hot ass possible and push through the extruder without filament. this will hopefully remove your clogg. but you'll need to also heat up the hotend
use bigger screw and insert from the other side of the heat block, rammed inside the nozzle, once you turn clockwise, the nozzle will anti clockwise, then for tightening the nozzle, just use small wrench, your wrench look bigger and the torque you put will hard to control
Всі ми там були, я теж вперше міняючи нозл мало не зламав, а потім прочитав що треба відкручувати гарячим. Обів'язково затягни новий нозл на гарячу, щоб розалавлений пластик нне почав підтікати.
Why? He is learning and made a mistake. That happens when people are teaching themselves to do something. Personally I researched for 3 months before starting and it was pretty seamless, but I am extremely obsessive.
You should remove nozzle while it's hot.
MK8 nozzles are the right ones for creality stock heat block.
The quality settings in slicer 0.12/0.2 and etc is the layer height, not the size of the nozzle bore. The stock nozzle is 0.4 and if you have to a 0.2 nozzle you need to change the nozzle size setting in your slicer.
For some people, 0.6 mm nozzles are better than 0.4 mm nozzles. But 0.4 nozzles are standard. Also, you can increase the Layer Height in your slicer to print things faster. This does decrease the resolution of the print a little. If you are just prototyping, then you can print at 0.25 mm Layer Height. If the part, you are prototyping has and parts that need to be precise then I would prototype on 0.2 mm layer height.
I hope this helps you.
As others have said, always remove the nozzle and heat-break (the other part you broke) when the heater block is at the printing temp of the material you last printed, this also causes expansion which further makes removing the parts easier. Also tighten them when hot, otherwise when the heater block expands there will be a small gap that will cause leaks and inevitably a jam. You can use a screw extractor to remove the parts or you can use a rotary tool and cut a slot in the broken parts and use a screwdriver to remove the parts when your heater block is hot, just be sure to use heat-proof gloves and/or hold the heat block with a wrench.
The standard nozzle size for the vast majority of consumer printers is 0.4mm, 0.2mm nozzles are for fine details and smaller than I would use on an FDM printer, If I want fine detail, small parts I will print with a resin printer. 0.2mm nozzles will be more likely to jam, slower and you may be unable to print materials that have fill in them, such as CF, wood, some marble filaments, metal fill etc. I recommend using a 0.4mm, 0.5mm or 0.6mm nozzle for most functional prints and 0.3mm or 0.2mm for small fine detailed prints.
There's no such thing as "broken". There is only "needs a few new parts". You can salvage that heat block. All you need is a screw extractor. Heat the bock up and you should be able to back those pieces out with no problem.
Next time your nozzle is clogged, try the ‚cold pull‘ method to clean it, instead of removing it. Fixes it in most of the cases without any effort.
For a 0.4mm nozzle some 0.3mm acupuncture needles can be very handy, too. Some printer manufacturers even add one or two to the accessories.
Heat it up before removing it. If you are set on removing the broken part, get yourself a set of left handed drill bits, heat up the part using a torch, then use the left handed drill bit to spin it out.
Needs to be very warm/hot when unscrewing nozzle. Also, use thermal compound to help the heater block transfer heat more efficiently(layers of air molecules between where the nozzle screws into the heater block...between threads needs paste to heko transfer heat).
always always remove nozzle when it is hot
Did you heat it up before trying to change the nozzle?
That's the thing with these inexpensive open frame 3d printers. They are almost entirely made up of off the shelf parts that you can replace or modify to your heart's content!
Many people are talking about heating it up before removing the nozzle. It goes without saying that you should also “hot tighten” it when replacing nozzles
I have recently just gotten a 3d printer, exactly like yours, and so glad I saw this video before I have to do a nozzle change!! Thanks for sharing your experience!!
in settings in the slicer if your using a 0.2mm nozzle. you can up the resolution to 0.06mm for insane detail in your models
I've changed my hotend on my ender 3 before because I thought my nozzle was STUCK. It wasn't. I was just turning it the wrong way. After like, a year, I finally got two new hotends, and both leaked like it was nobody's business. I even MADE SURE everything was tight. So I had to change back to the original once I got the nozzle out, and now it's leaking too after like, a month. I hate creality sometimes.
I’m starting to understand why
@@uk1tech Trust me, it's user error the vast majority of the time. A lot of people that buy these machines are beginners and will make mistakes, I was one of them once.
What type of ender 3? Did it have a PTFE lined hotend or an all metal hotend? Was it bowden or direct drive? I only ask because I may be able to help solve the issue. If all these parts had the same issue it's unlikely that it is the fault of the parts themselves.
@@Smokinjoewhite Oh I kinda got it fixed, it is a ptfe lined one, and to stop it from leaking out the top I put some teflon tape on the heat break threads and I figured out you have to heat up your hotend before you put on your nozzle because I have no idea why. But I would still like to know how I might be able to fix it in the future because that was HELL. But I also plan on switching to the spider ceramic hotend. So Idk how it'll work on there.
The number in your slicer, 0.12, 0.16 etc is the LAYER HEIGHT, NOT THE NOZZLE SIZE. You should have ordered 0.4mm nozzles. With the 0.4mm, you can use any of these LAYER HEIGHT numbers. Hope this helps.
The big pink lake is totaly unnececery under the dragon...
heat up than stick an hex key inside than try to turn, you mingh be able to screw out. it happened for me years ago
Колись дивився ваші збірки ПК на Кедрі, оце я здивувався, коли це відео в рекомендованих знайшов)
always remove nozzle when its hot or it goes as it did just a tip🙂
Perfect time for order bambulab :D
Regarding the nozzles, quality in the slicer refers to verticale resolution. You should have ordered 0.4mm nozzles as this is the standard size and referes to the width of the lines it prints if that makes sense.
Happy to help if you need it.
Thanks
get a realy small hex wrench heat it up as hot ass possible and push through the extruder without filament. this will hopefully remove your clogg. but you'll need to also heat up the hotend
use bigger screw and insert from the other side of the heat block, rammed inside the nozzle, once you turn clockwise, the nozzle will anti clockwise, then for tightening the nozzle, just use small wrench, your wrench look bigger and the torque you put will hard to control
those brims are crazyyyyy hahah
Trial by fire 🙂
Roman in da house.
Когда будет телега ?
Всі ми там були, я теж вперше міняючи нозл мало не зламав, а потім прочитав що треба відкручувати гарячим. Обів'язково затягни новий нозл на гарячу, щоб розалавлений пластик нне почав підтікати.
RELEASE THE BRACKEN!
Default nozzle 0.4
stop 3d printing
Never
Why? He is learning and made a mistake. That happens when people are teaching themselves to do something. Personally I researched for 3 months before starting and it was pretty seamless, but I am extremely obsessive.