Epic repair hats off to you mate. Many a person would have scrapped that. Thanks for taking the time to film it. Looking forward to see it up and running again...............Cheers
On mine, the Brass Gear was beyond knackered but the worm appears to be good and I too knocked the shaft out the same way as shown. I did some minor damage to the Worm. Notice the bronze gear U is shape to fit the worm so the sides are in effect larger than the center so it doesn't pass the worm. I was able to hand file the burrs I made. If making a new worm as well, no problem. I think you have to knock out the roll pin the tap the shaft out toward the blade wheel, And the blade wheel hits the tilt shaft so searching UA-cam for ideas. This is why I am here, looking for the best way to install the new gear without damage. I am thinking it's install the Brass gear assembly first then the worm with a bit of tapping and rotating as you go but don't really know for sure. Off to repair #2. Thanks for posting. UPDate: I used a crowbar prying on the end of the worm and box and as I was not replacing the worm I only had to push it a couple of inches and the brass gear was able to pop on easily, then tap and turn the worm shaft back in. I saw another video explaining why no roll pin hole, it was for JET version and it used a Circlip. Unfortunately the HFT shaft is not long enough for a Circlip groove. Maybe also order the shaft from Grizzly or if you have a lathe make one. Also, looked at the gear oil I used, GL5 of which others say is not good for Brass gears, just saying.
Have the band saw and I love mine. I am going to change oil in gear box and fill with heavy gear oil and add a sight glass..... Thanks for sharing Cliff
I felt for you Cliff, cutting stock by hand is a pain. I also consider my bandsaw the most useful and probably overworked machine in my shop. Looking forward to the hobbing work in the next episode. PS, love to see a bloke who fights a job the whole way to get it apart and uses what ever comes to hand to get it done, great stuff. Cam
Thanks Cam, as Yves above pointed out a gear puller would have been handy, but that pulley did not want to come off, but it had to, even if it meant buggering it up! :-)
greetings from Oklahoma, U S A ,,...!! ...good video..tks ..i signed on because I FOROT the RE-assembly order of some of the components ..("where the hell does this go .".)..lol...!! anyway you showed me what I needed to know ..I bought a new 20 tooth grass gear and shaft assembly .on Amazon -(the worm gear looks fine)--..I noticed however, that my saw had a 23 tooth brass gear ..!! ..I counted the teeth on the worm gear and it looks like FIVE complete teeth ..!! ...not sure if it's gonna work ...but logic would dictate that 5 to 20 sounds more reasonable than 5 to 23 ..!! ..i bought the saw NEW 20 years ago for $170.00 so..if this doesn't work ..to the scrap pile it goes ..!!!... thanks again for the information ...!!!
Thanks again, Cliff! I'll eagerly wait for your cutting the hob & worm. Good luck with that, as you'll probably find it hard to get a proper gear ratio (including fractions of Pi) for the lead screw to get the proper helix angle for the worm. Then design considerations on what PA to use... Aluminium for the wheel could prove too weak - phosphor bronze will last if you could get hold of it - works great with a steel worm. Holding my thumbs - all ten of them- for you, Cliff! Cheers, DIYSwede.
Not anymore! Grizzly replaced this model with a variable speed direct drive model, and the Shop Fox model shows these parts, and the majority of other parts, as discontinued - no longer available! Grizzly seems to be slowly moving away from “cookie cutter” Chinese machines that are sold under different brand names, but are identical. I guess they got tired of selling parts for machines they didn’t sell, although it looks like that would be additional income for them! HF actually does sell a handful of parts for this saw, but it’s mainly guide roller bearings, pulleys and the motor. None of the gearbox parts are available from them.
@@tomt9543 now it's 4/23/24. This info is for Red HFT currently still being sold, Central Mach. 93762. HFT says they stock the brass gear, you have to call which I did, no stock and unknown delv. I was afraid of the Amazon version as they advertise it as 20 teeth and SOME reviews said it is a loose fit but I guess it fit, some said it didn't. Harbor Frt. part number is #20 but it has 23 teeth maybe a typo but no one mentions this in the reviews or part numbers. Grizzy shows two versions of the 4 x 6 saw but for the Gear it's the same PN for both. I ordered one to see for myself. Grizzly PN P0622191 is dead on except one little thing... no hole for the Roll Pin. I decided it needed the Roll Pin, this took about an hour setup time on my Mill. If you don't have a mill, you might not be able to do it. The Gear is Keyed, maybe drill and tap the end, bolt and washer. Cost of this date, $58.95 USD's with free shipping.
Interesting video Cliff. My RongFu bandsaw looks like yours (it was the original they all copied). I'm really surprised how cheesy that worm gear looks to be to wear like that. You can buy Harbour Freight spares for them I believe. How many $$$'s though may be too much ;) Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. I changed the oil in mine when I did the guide rollers and the gears looked good even though mine had done a lot of work before I got it. I replaced the gear oil with synthetic Mobil 80 - 120 LSD oil as it won't attack the bronze gear. An aluminium gear should work OK for quite a while I expect, provided you make it out of some hard stuff. Good luck. Cheers Rob
G’day Cliff, thanks for the strip down, I’m sure it will come in handy one day. It’ll be interesting to see how an aluminium gear will work out, time will tell. Cheers Peter
Life without a bandsaw is a parting tool ! Looks like you will be flicking through the pages of machinerys hand book for worm specs ! I wish you the best result . Cheers .
Good stuff Cliff - congratulations on getting to 2000 subscribers! Well deserved! Looking forward to seeing you cut the worm and worm wheel. I've just recently been working on a delrin worm (for test purposes) to match an unknown bronze worm wheel. It came out well, and I'll try and show it in my next video - hopefully of interest to you. Cheers, Craig
Cheers Craig, Definitely be interested in seeing you cut one, I have managed the pinion to go on the saw and am on the hob, but it is no easy task, don't know how the worm gear will turn out!
Liked the segment showing the turning off of the work worm gear/ It's a pity you can't see anything in the video due to the tool post being in the line of view........
Cheers Frank, when it works well mine works great, and then it'll have a tantrum, throw the blade and generally play up, but I have never been able to adjust the vertical cut dead square, it doesn't have enough movement on the guide, something I'll look at while its in bits!
Epic repair hats off to you mate. Many a person would have scrapped that. Thanks for taking the time to film it. Looking forward to see it up and running again...............Cheers
On mine, the Brass Gear was beyond knackered but the worm appears to be good and I too knocked the shaft out the same way as shown. I did some minor damage to the Worm. Notice the bronze gear U is shape to fit the worm so the sides are in effect larger than the center so it doesn't pass the worm. I was able to hand file the burrs I made. If making a new worm as well, no problem. I think you have to knock out the roll pin the tap the shaft out toward the blade wheel, And the blade wheel hits the tilt shaft so searching UA-cam for ideas. This is why I am here, looking for the best way to install the new gear without damage. I am thinking it's install the Brass gear assembly first then the worm with a bit of tapping and rotating as you go but don't really know for sure. Off to repair #2. Thanks for posting.
UPDate: I used a crowbar prying on the end of the worm and box and as I was not replacing the worm I only had to push it a couple of inches and the brass gear was able to pop on easily, then tap and turn the worm shaft back in. I saw another video explaining why no roll pin hole, it was for JET version and it used a Circlip. Unfortunately the HFT shaft is not long enough for a Circlip groove. Maybe also order the shaft from Grizzly or if you have a lathe make one. Also, looked at the gear oil I used, GL5 of which others say is not good for Brass gears, just saying.
You need to invest in a set of gear puller. Would make an easy job of removing those pulleys. Good job. Thanks for sharing.
Have the band saw and I love mine. I am going to change oil in gear box and fill with heavy gear oil and add a sight glass..... Thanks for sharing Cliff
I felt for you Cliff, cutting stock by hand is a pain. I also consider my bandsaw the most useful and probably overworked machine in my shop. Looking forward to the hobbing work in the next episode. PS, love to see a bloke who fights a job the whole way to get it apart and uses what ever comes to hand to get it done, great stuff.
Cam
Thanks Cam, as Yves above pointed out a gear puller would have been handy, but that pulley did not want to come off, but it had to, even if it meant buggering it up! :-)
greetings from Oklahoma, U S A ,,...!! ...good video..tks ..i signed on because I FOROT the RE-assembly order of some of the components ..("where the hell does this go .".)..lol...!! anyway you showed me what I needed to know ..I bought a new 20 tooth grass gear and shaft assembly .on Amazon -(the worm gear looks fine)--..I noticed however, that my saw had a 23 tooth brass gear ..!! ..I counted the teeth on the worm gear and it looks like FIVE complete teeth ..!! ...not sure if it's gonna work ...but logic would dictate that 5 to 20 sounds more reasonable than 5 to 23 ..!! ..i bought the saw NEW 20 years ago for $170.00 so..if this doesn't work ..to the scrap pile it goes ..!!!... thanks again for the information ...!!!
Thanks again, Cliff! I'll eagerly wait for your cutting the hob & worm. Good luck with that, as you'll probably find it hard to get a proper gear ratio (including fractions of Pi) for the lead screw to get the proper helix angle for the worm. Then design considerations on what PA to use... Aluminium for the wheel could prove too weak - phosphor bronze will last if you could get hold of it - works great with a steel worm. Holding my thumbs - all ten of them- for you, Cliff! Cheers, DIYSwede.
The worm should be fine just replace the bronze gear. You can get almost every part for these saws from Grizzly!!
Not anymore! Grizzly replaced this model with a variable speed direct drive model, and the Shop Fox model shows these parts, and the majority of other parts, as discontinued - no longer available! Grizzly seems to be slowly moving away from “cookie cutter” Chinese machines that are sold under different brand names, but are identical. I guess they got tired of selling parts for machines they didn’t sell, although it looks like that would be additional income for them! HF actually does sell a handful of parts for this saw, but it’s mainly guide roller bearings, pulleys and the motor. None of the gearbox parts are available from them.
It's available on Amazon for anyone who needs it. On eBay too. 50 bucks or so.
@@tomt9543 now it's 4/23/24. This info is for Red HFT currently still being sold, Central Mach. 93762. HFT says they stock the brass gear, you have to call which I did, no stock and unknown delv. I was afraid of the Amazon version as they advertise it as 20 teeth and SOME reviews said it is a loose fit but I guess it fit, some said it didn't. Harbor Frt. part number is #20 but it has 23 teeth maybe a typo but no one mentions this in the reviews or part numbers. Grizzy shows two versions of the 4 x 6 saw but for the Gear it's the same PN for both. I ordered one to see for myself. Grizzly PN P0622191 is dead on except one little thing... no hole for the Roll Pin. I decided it needed the Roll Pin, this took about an hour setup time on my Mill. If you don't have a mill, you might not be able to do it. The Gear is Keyed, maybe drill and tap the end, bolt and washer. Cost of this date, $58.95 USD's with free shipping.
Interesting video Cliff. My RongFu bandsaw looks like yours (it was the original they all copied). I'm really surprised how cheesy that worm gear looks to be to wear like that. You can buy Harbour Freight spares for them I believe. How many $$$'s though may be too much ;) Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. I changed the oil in mine when I did the guide rollers and the gears looked good even though mine had done a lot of work before I got it. I replaced the gear oil with synthetic Mobil 80 - 120 LSD oil as it won't attack the bronze gear. An aluminium gear should work OK for quite a while I expect, provided you make it out of some hard stuff. Good luck. Cheers Rob
enjoyed that, thanks for taking the time to share, looking forward to the follow up.
Hi Cliff
Great video of the methodically thought out dismantling. Loved the drift work. Hope the replacement parts your machining turn out good. Tony
G’day Cliff, thanks for the strip down, I’m sure it will come in handy one day. It’ll be interesting to see how an aluminium gear will work out, time will tell.
Cheers
Peter
Life without a bandsaw is a parting tool ! Looks like you will be flicking through the pages of machinerys hand book for worm specs ! I wish you the best result . Cheers .
Try Machine mart for spares, that's identical to my Clarke bandsaw.
Spares are listed in the user manual.
I had one of those band saws when I lived in the states . I'm back in the uk with a hacksaw . Don't have miss that band saw .
Good stuff Cliff - congratulations on getting to 2000 subscribers! Well deserved! Looking forward to seeing you cut the worm and worm wheel. I've just recently been working on a delrin worm (for test purposes) to match an unknown bronze worm wheel. It came out well, and I'll try and show it in my next video - hopefully of interest to you. Cheers, Craig
Cheers Craig, Definitely be interested in seeing you cut one, I have managed the pinion to go on the saw and am on the hob, but it is no easy task, don't know how the worm gear will turn out!
@@CliffsShed I think it will probably turn out great, and even if it doesn't we'll all learn something about it along the way!
Getting there.I´ll bet you that you will make it run again.Cheers
Liked the segment showing the turning off of the work worm gear/ It's a pity you can't see anything in the video due to the tool post being in the line of view........
Thanks for the video.
For God's sake don't force it get a bigger hammer!!
What do you think to your new lathe ?
Al.
I have the same saw- have lots of issues with it
Fb
Cheers Frank, when it works well mine works great, and then it'll have a tantrum, throw the blade and generally play up, but I have never been able to adjust the vertical cut dead square, it doesn't have enough movement on the guide, something I'll look at while its in bits!
Cliffs Shed yup- sounds just like mine. It does beat using a hacksaw though
I enjoyed the struggle, loved the cliff edge ending