Thanks for the upload and the lesson.I just bought the same band saw and had a crunched pulley,a broken blade,a leaking gear box....I replaced both pulleys with machined alum 3 tier pulley wheels,made Hrbr.Freight give me a couple of blades,they reimbursed pulley costs but not shipping,thats o.k..And then started it up,piss poor tracking,noisier than most of the engine rooms I sailed in. Ch.Engr.30 years Merchant Marine tugboats and lg.commercial fishing vessels.I asked the You Tube genie for videos and bam there you,and others were.36 min.later I started the mods and adjustments and ended up with a fine, quieter,beautifully tracking bandsaw.I use it mostly in verticle position, doing resaws on hardwood for the guitars I build.Once again thanks for the post and video it was right on target
Thanks James! I'm glad the video was useful. It sounds like yours was banged up pretty bad. I'm glad they took care of you to your satisfaction. The HF in my area is great to take care of any problems. I know what you mean about the noise...lol. I didn't shoot a clip on how loud it was, but you couldn't stand to be in the same room with it as it was. I'm glad you were able to get it running well. Making an acoustic has been on my bucket list for years. Hopefully someday I'll get around to it. Thanks for the post, take care, and good luck! G.
So I decided after 4 years of owning this saw I'd throw it out...I just couldn't get it good enough for anything of value. I'm so glad I found you video; I got it working perfectly unlike ever before. Thank you!
Hey Ghostes...around minute 16:00 you talk about milling the top surface of the small vertical cutting table in order to make it level. I'll save you some time and effort. I found that putting a washer under the table where the table is lower and using a longer screw to hold the table down at that point will level off the table so you can use it effectively when cutting in the vertical position (provided you use the right thickness washer). Much easier and quicker than milling the table!
Good tip Ken, that would make quick work of sorting out the problem. I never used it in the vertical position, and have since purchased an upright saw. But if I ever do, the washer and bolt will be my first choice. Thanks, G.
Your review was most helpful in my decision to purchase one. I was about to buy it new for $210 with discounts applied. But on the day of my purchase I saw a nearly new green color saw of similar kind for $50 . I went , I saw and I bought it And it cuts beautifully even with the cheap blade. The stand may look flimsy but once assembled and bolted tightly, it holds the saw firmly well. It is low, but I think it is a perfect height for non production use. A simple yet efficient machine. It takes a little bit of time to cut compared to the massive machine in production houses or metal shops. I keep mine in the basement shop and it runs smoothly without any intolerable noise. A compact good machine. It is worth spending money on a good blade. I don't understand why people complain about it. An ideal machine for home and hobby use.
+John Babu That's cool John! I agree with everything you said. You can't beat $50 for your green saw. I know HF used to sell it in green, so it may be one of the older units. Either way- good score! Good luck, G.
Thanks for posting this. I purchased a version of this saw that was made in the '80s. The issue I have had with it was that it was off approx .120 from top to bottom over about 1 1/2 inches. Your tips ought to help me finally get it tuned in so that there is less cleanup on each cut.
Grizzly sells the equivalent saw their manual is much better written and detailed you can download it for free off their website. Grizzly also sells parts for their version of this saw at a reasonable cost I believe that most of the spare parts would be a direct fit or a "close" fit with some modification.
Totally agree with your review about this machine. I think people need to remember how much they paid for things before moaning! I bought one of the UK brands of this machine & it cost me 286 GBP, that's a lot more than $157 but worth every penny!!! Set up properly, mine cut through 120mm square box section with a 5mm wall. I had to rotate it twice but it still cut through it with ease. As for the height, You put the workpiece on & leave it to cut, it's not like you have to bend down & stay there to cut it by hand. Brilliant little machine now it's set up following your instructions
+archiearchie666 Thanks! That's too true in some cases. When I purchase/review something, I always do with my expectations being set accordingly to what was paid for it. A little mod here and there, or some tweaking can really turn something into a great tool. It mine ever quits, I'll happily purchase another one for sure. I'm glad the video helped you get yours setup. "Brilliant little machine"- Agreed! G.
WOW! I've been struggling with my saw for about 5 years and just now stumbled on this great video. Thanks you so much for posting this! The manual doesn't come close to covering what you did. Now I'm going to check out your other videos. Thanks again!
Best i instructional video, my beileigh 128 was acting up as the blade was walking from the pulley and found out i had to use an ellen hex instead of the bolt shown to turn the pulley so that the belt doesn't slip off and give me bad cuts and thanks for the easy to understand instructions to get the best performance out of the saw.
Thank you my friend. Very in-depth and informative video. I wasn't going to buy this model, even though the price was great (especially on sale for $200) but I went right out purchased it after watching your video and now i know what to do to make it workable for my needs. Good Job!!
Hey Ghostses, This is Steve, the guy who asked you a bunch of question about your Atlas Horizontal Milling Machine rebuild a couple of years ago. It's good to see that you are making more videos about interesting stuff like this Harbor Freight vertical and horizontal band saw. I have the same exact band saw and it has worked flawlessly since the day I bought it. But looking for to watching what you have come up with to modify the one you have. So I can do the same thing to the one I have. I will say though, I do think that the stand on these band saws could use some type of modification. If nothing else, at least the wheels definitely need to be replaced. With something more heavy duty, and the stand could use some beefing up so it can handle the weight of the band saw.
Good to hear from you Steve! I do remember you. Mine has been left stock all these years and has been working well for me. I don't know if any mods will come in the future- but will post them for sure. I've had a hydraulic down-feed in my head- but never moved on it. Personally, I don't have any issues with the stand- but agree on the wheels. I saw a video recently where it looks like they've changed the wheels out for something better. Their site still shows this style though- so I'm a bit confused. Take care, G.
G'day Rick thanks mate for this great video on how to set up one of these saws. I have new one and changed the blade and then the problems started with alightment and the blade on a angle to the work piece. Your video explained it very well on how to go about fixing this in a methodical way so thank you once again John Tasmania Australia
Excellent video, just bought the clarke version (same saw) different color and wanted to see exactly how to set it up properly and this video has been absolutely spot on in answering all of my questions , thankyou
Thank you for this very helpful video. I used it to setup my new 550W Chinese bandsaw (all I could afford here). I vigilantly adjusted everything as you showed (for hours really), yet I still couldn't get a decent cut. At the end of the cut, I kept finding right side of the blade making an angle from the stock, while the left was square (and when not cutting, the blade was dead square to the vise, I used parallel bars and an angle ruler). I kept getting cuts with a vertical angle, with more material at the bottom. I soon realized that, when I pushed the saw part, the hinge shaft was actually moving about 1mm up and right in its loose hole when it was all the way down (also moving the blade away from stock). All was good when it was all the way up, due to weight on that part .So, I drilled and tapped 2 x M6 screw holes (piece of cake on this cheap cast iron), screwed in setscrews and stabilized them with non-permanent Loctite clone. The resulting motion was very smooth. Is this a general defect, or did I just fix a not really critical problem? Later on, I broke a blade trying to cut a 60mm x 60mm (23.6" x 23.6") square pipe with 3mm wall thickness. Do you think 14 TPI is too low for such materials (had no problem with 70mm aluminium log)? Yes, factory blade.
+technoshamanarchist No problem. I would think you corrected a defect with the setscrews. The first thing to do would be to replace the factory blade with a known good quality one- which you have to now. I use Starret blades just for reference. Lenox would be another good choice. I don't know tons about blades, but if the set was not correct- it could cause it to wander the cut. A 14, 18, or a variable pitch 14/18 should be fine for what you're cutting. You might even be able to go with a slightly more aggressive blade for the tubing. The log, you could go to about 3-4tpi. If you're still having the problem after a new blade, you might try slowing down the feed rate. Here's a link to a Lenox document that had some very good information on selecting a blade for particular stock- page 21. It might help you find a happy medium. Hope this helps, G. www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0CB0QFjAAahUKEwikzrzG2_DIAhVU1GMKHeXoAHQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lenoxtools.com%2FGuides%2FLENOX%2520Guide%2520to%2520Band%2520Sawing.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGwK0_Ppvc-XVzrHuPv9NtRfIk__A&sig2=Ey4I_GIvfl5CAcquGuXN3Q&bvm=bv.106379543,d.cGc
+ghostses Thank you so much for taking the time for such a detailed response. The document you provided is also a gem! Since I'm new to bandsaws, I think my feedrate was rather fast. I ordered some blades from ebay. The only brand name I could find was Draper. Not many of the sellers send to where I live. I got 14 and 24 TPI ones. Thanks again; keep making swarf and teaching us new tricks :)
+technoshamanarchist No problem! I agree, it's loaded with tons of good information. Yeah, try slowing the rate down. I think between the blade, and maybe feeding too fast- that was your problem. Especially since you took the time to get the saw dialed in. Once you get them in and tested, let me know the results. Good luck, G.
+ghostses I will tell you about the results when my blades arrive. I put your video on my blog along with my little hack, hope you don't mind. Thank you again, sir :)
I adore this machine even if it is a nightmare to ajust...and there are so many ways to modify and improove it... Actually, I have two of them since one was given to me because the motor was burned. So, this one is always used in the standing up position to cut free hand, I am amazed to see how often I use it.. I am planning to use a speed nut to adjust the whith of the vise, a spped nut and a screw like the ones used on a 14 inches grinding saw...
+remige2006 Agreed! They are great little machines. A speed nut would be a great mod! My Milwaukee cut off saw has one. If you do mod it out, or have reference to one that has been done, I would love to see it. Good luck, G.
thanks ..I do have a brand new blade as I was watching your video very intently I realized I didn't approach the problem even close to the way I should have,,that was a nice video and you explained it perfectly, I fee quite confident that I can make it work thanks to your video and clear explanation,,thank you so much..
No problem Steve. Blades themselves can cause funny problems, which is why I mentioned it. Since you have a known good blade, you're well on your way. Take your time and you can get it! Good luck getting yours dialed in! G.
I made an auxiliary table that does not rely on being mounted via those screw holes. I used a piece of 3/8" scrap plate from the metal yard as the table surface. But I don't use it for anything precision. Mostly lap joint cuts in steel angle.
The man is right,! It takes lots of patience to get these little saws back to cutting with precision should you loose the setting. Vibration may loosens set screws followed by to much pressure at some point and the saw start throwing band blades which means the fun has started. I have had several of these little saws and it seems to me that Harbor Freight is not the only one selling this exact same saw. There are other company's that sell this saw with a different name plate, different color! (Even JET) Each may be a bit difference set of roller blade guides but all is the same for the most part. If I am not mistaken this saw is made in Taiwan. My suggestion is that if you own one of these saws, take the time and use a metal scribe to outline the roller blade guide setting before you loose them. It might just save you hours of frustration some day. Thanks for your time.
+axelec Thanks! Agreed, there are many differently badged versions of the saws with subtle differences. I would bet they all come from the same factory. Monday they're red, Tuesday's green, Wednesday's white, etc...lol. Mine says China, but I'm not sure of the newer ones. Great tip on scribing things! After spending the time to get it just right, a small slip up and you're starting from scratch. Using marks would at least get you back in the ballpark- if not even dead on. Good stuff! Take care, G.
Great video indeed. I recently bought an old HF 4X6 band saw from a guy advertised on Craigslist. He was asking $150.00 and it was made in 1994. It looked pretty good in the photo, so I offered $100.00. I bought the saw for $100.00 and much to my surprise, it's in great shape for being that old. I cleaned up a little dirt and some surface rust on the table. Today I made a couple of cuts and they were very smooth and accurate. Your saw is a bit more sophisticated, but there haven't been many changes in twenty years. Mine lacks those safety pins with chains, but for the most part it's identical. I expected to have to make lots of adjustments or repairs but this saw is great. Now for the part about it tipping over backwards, your warning comes a day late. Yesterday I was tipping it way back and sure enough it started to fall over backward but the only thing that kept it from happening was my shin, and yes it left a mark ;- ) . I was able to prevent it from falling thankfully. I think I will change out those cheap wheels and install a shaft to hold the wheels. Just something to do, as I am 77 years old and retired. Again thanks for the great video it is very helpful.... Ken ...Marina CA
Not a bad score there Ken! Sound like you got a good saw after cleaning it up- and for a good price. It sounds like you took a good beating on the shin to save it. I guess my warning is better late than never I guess. At least now you know the problem first hand and can address it to prevent it from happening again. Thanks for the post and good luck, G.
This was a great video. I got the identical saw (did someone say only manufactured for HF?) at Northern Tool. I usually buy tools as dirt cheap as I can, then rebuild them, for a couple of reasons: if they break, you know how to fix them, save bucks, and, well, I think it's fun. When I got mine, I'd never even seen a metal cutting bandsaw, and knew nothing whatsoever about them. No prob, grab the manual and go to work, right?. The problem is that the NT manual was the worst, most incomplete thing I'd ever seen- so far even as having references to pictures that weren't even there. I was almost completely lost, just started taking stuff apart until I figured out how this works, that works, until I discovered it was identical to the HF saw. The HF manual was only slightly better, but your video did the trick. GREAT! DOUBLE GREAT! Being as ignorant about these things as I am, though, I have a question. The blade has a slight twist in it coming from the drive pulleys (about 15 deg or so). The NT customer support people said this was as it should be, but it seems odd. Furthermore, with this slight twist, the back of the blade is against one of the guide bearings. The docs say (as you said) some very slight distance or barely touching the guide bearings. I can't adjust mine far enough to where the blade is not touching the bearings, and the back touches but not the front. Am I doing something wrong here? Also, great idea about milling off the support thingy for the vertical platform. Haven't worried about it yet, except to just set it up vertically to see what it looked like, and, indeed, it looks like a sinking ship listing to starboard- awful. I was going to shim it; your idea is much better. Again, great and double great. Awesome video. Too bad the manufacturer doesn't produce something of equal quality.
Thanks! I'm not sure what they were talking about as these saws are re-branded and sold at many places. I'm right there with you on saving cash, and fixing or modifying them as I see fit. It's a good way to get to know the tool to be able to fix them like you said. I've not seen the NT manual, but the HF manual is lacking for sure. The twist in the blade is normal. I'm not sure why it's there, but that's just the way it is. I adjusted the inner bearings using the ruler to get everything square to the table and the back of the vise, then put on the blade and adjusted the outboard bearings. I adjusted the outboard bearings until they were just snug so all play was removed- but not jamming tight. You should be able to turn the outboard bearings with your fingers- with some resistance. They speak of leaving a gap with a feeler gauge- I think it was about .001. I really didn't do that because it messes with the accuracy of the saw in my opinion because of the twist in the blade as it leaves the drive wheels. Trying to leave a gap and still adjust it to cut straight would be a loosing battle in my opinion. I played around with it for a while and came up with my method of adjusting that works for me. As far as bearings wearing out, the saw turns so slow I don't think it would ever be a problem. If it is, I will replace them on the cheap. It's worth it for me to have a good cutting saw instead of worrying about bearing life. I don't think you're doing anything wrong. Just play with it and you will get there. Yeah, the casting to hold the table is horrible to say the least..lol. Milling would be the best solution in my opinion. The saw has such a small throat, it's very limiting in what could be done in the vertical position. I've still not used it vertically and never will, so I've never corrected the problem. I'm glad you found some info in the video that might be useful to you. Stay at it and you will get it dialed in. Good luck, G.
***** Wow! Thanks for the quick reply. So I guess it looks like I'm on the right track. I did notice in replaying your video that your blade has that twist in it, too, so I'll live with it and use the ruler technique (again, third time, which is, of course, the charm:). Can't imagine what they mean by leaving the .001" gap when the blade is twisted like that (yeah, I saw that, too, which is one thing that really confused me), but I'm taking your bearing comments to heart, and moving on. Here we go...
***** One other problem is that I can't get it square to the vise (table no problem). There doesn't seem to be enough eccentricity in the bearing shaft to move it enough. If you don't have any further insight here, I can alway offset the vice angle to compensate. Kludge for sure.
***** No problem! You are on the right track as far as I'm concerned. I think I was on the 5th or 6th time charm. It's a pain to get it just right, but you can. I think they mean to pinch in a feeler gauge which would force the blade straight then take it out for clearance. But, when removing it- it will let the blade twist and in effect throw everything else off. Yeah, don't worry about the bearing life. If they ever wear out, I bet 5-10 bucks will gain a new set no problem. G.
***** Hmm. If you set the vice to 0 degree on the chart and can't move both inboard bearings to get it the blade to square up with it, there is something wrong. I would guess the chart may not have been put on correctly. I was able to do it on mine, but that doesn't mean it will work for all of them. If for sure you don't have the adjustment room, get it as close as you can and then adjust the vise to the blade and lock it down like you said. I don't rely on the chart anyway as they are not accurate at all. I cut mostly 90's but if I need to cut an angle I use a protractor to set the angle. I think you're just about there! Good luck, G.
Got mine last week for $200 and it seems to cut square right out of the box. I guess I got lucky. Most Harbor Freight merchandise is very cheesy but this saw is remarkably well made. The wheels are a bit Mickey Mouse but they hold it up and let it move around. The only problem I have had is with the table in the upright position. The two top screws are not long enough to get both of them in at the same time as they are probably a little out of alignment. I will fix that later. I did not notice if the blade was straight with the table as I was just cutting some slots in a piece of wood and they did not need to be accurate. Thanks for sharing.
Good deal! My friends cut straight right out of the box as well. This is definitely one of their gems for sure. I agree on the wheels, but mine still work well enough. Good luck with yours, G.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the process you used. VERY, Very helpful. I luv this saw. But ive been doing a lot of work (stainless tubing) lately. And its come out of adjustment. I just had to find your video again. And "BANG" im back up and running. These saws are by far the best product out there. But if you take the time, and follow this gentlmans instructions. You will have outstanding performance for this $200 dollar saw.
No problem man! Glad the video helped to get yours dialed back in. I agree, for what they cost (and with a little adjustment) they're a great buy. I can't imagine being without mine. Take care, G.
Hi thanks for the reply, yes i have seen this make on ebay i will order some and same size 64.5. To move my saw around in my workshop i just fitted caster and removed the wheels and it's made so easy to move around, a great saw for the money. R
To use the vertical table, instead of machining the blade guide, simply make a shim for the low side to square the table to the blade. If you make it out of steel, you could tack weld it to the underside of the table so you won't lose it. Much simpler.
Good info John! Thanks for the tip. I'm sure it will benefit others. Myself, I have a vertical saw so I don't use this one vertically- so it's not been an issue I've addressed. Thanks again and take care, G.
ghostses, My saw is from 1990 and I noticed only one blade guide bearing shaft per side is an eccentric. The other bearing shaft is straight. I cannot adjust a gap large enough to fit a rule or have a blade adjustment work. Have you heard of this problem. Great video... Thank you for sharing!
No Jim, I've not heard of the problem. I guess they've made changes over the years and added the other two eccentric bearing mounts. I'm not sure how thick your rule is, but perhaps you can find one thinner to use. I'm trying to think of another something to use- but nothing comes to mind. Since you don't have 4 adjustment points for the bearings- I'm assuming the outboard bearings are the ones that are adjustable. If so, and since you can't adjust the blade to be 90 to the back of the vise with the vise on zero, just square the vise to the blade by turning it and locking it back down. That should take care of getting the vise and blade perpendicular to each other. Getting the blade perpendicular to the table should be the same as I've shown I would guess. You just need to get something straight you can fit in-between the guides. I hope this helps and let me know what you come up with as it might help others with the old machines. Good luck, G.
***** Thanks Ghostes... I am going to pursue trying to get two more eccentric shafts from HF. I would like the ability of adjustment for thicker blades. I have very little leeway for blade thickness as it stands now. I put in an email request for the eccentric shafts from HF. We'll see how their service dept. responds... Had to send an email... they don't answer the phone...
Some excellent info in here. Let me ask this though. If you take you blade off and use a straight edge to correct the tilt in blade, your guide heights probably won't be correct for the blade and you will have to loosen after reinstalling the blade to get the vertical bearing just above blade, losing your tilt adjustment. This is where I think leaving the blade on and using the magnet with a small straight edge on side of blade may have a large advantage. How did you deal with this issue?
This is years old Sean so I can assure you I'm rusty here. The straight edge was used to set the reference 90 degrees to the base as well as setting it 90 degrees to the fence using the inboard cams on the bearings. After getting things dialed in- the blade was installed and the outboard eccentric bearings adjusted. As for the vertical bearings (behind the blade)- a simple tracking adjustment should give any gap you want achievable. Hope this helps, G.
Well 9 months later and it’s still cutting good without the fins on the motor. Couldn’t find them anywhere. You have to buy the whole motor in order too get them. Any way it works just fine. Oh yeah I got mine too cut the same way yours does. But whenever ya change the blade you got too adj the rollers again but not as much. 🤪🤪🤪
That's cool Jack! Yeah, if your change the blades- you do need to make adjustments here and there as you've found. Glad yours is working out well for you. Take care, G.
Another excellent and informative video. Question from someone not familiar with the use of this type of saw. Are they useful for more than just repetitive cuts? I have a Delta vertical band saw with at 14 inch throat and other types of cutting tools (plasma cutter, cold cut saw, etc.), but I am intrigued by this saw. They are on sale now, and with the now common 25% coupon, I can take it home for about $200. If you could elaborate on its use I would appreciate it. Again, and excellent video. I am so tempted to get one!
Darryl, they can be used in a vertical position to cut items as well. The throat isn't very deep so you would need to be selective on what can be cut. I'm not sure what Delta you have, or if it's only a woodcutting saw, but metal cutting saws run extremely slow when comparing the two. If yours is just for woodcutting, you might entertain getting this saw for horizontal cuts as well as using it in the vertical position. But again, keep in mind the throat limitation- it's probably about 2.5 inches. Hope this helps, G.
***** Yes, my Delta is a 14 inch throat wood band saw that I have put a metal saw blade on and have cut thin metals. There is no adjustment as to the blade speed. I saw one today in the store. It is much smaller than I had imagined - will not take up a lot of room. Thanks for the reply.
Darryl Mansfield Good deal! I just wanted you to be aware of the speed difference between metal and woodcutting saws- in case you didn't already know. You are correct, they're not that big. Good luck if you pick one up, G.
***** Thanks -- I went to HF yesterday and asked why so many 25% coupons are appearing lately. They told me that the 25% coupon is now the new 20%. I have been collecting and saving them, but they told me that I need not do that since that is all eel will pretty much see from now on. Good news indeed!
Darryl Mansfield That is good news for sure. I have another video posted with a link to a coupon page. I use it to print off 25% as well as there are free items you can get that might be useful to you. You might check it out. G.
I have the same saw. The problem I'm having is that blade as it's cutting has a little bounce. Every rotation of blade it does this. I've looked as it's cutting and it's not rubbing on either of pulley wheels. It's a new saw about month and half I have gotten it. I've did the blade roller adjustments. Cuts square but has the bounce. Any suggestions?
To lock the saw into the vertical position, there is a bracket with a locking pin that pivots and engages into a notch in the right front side of the cast iron frame. The pin on the right back side locks the frame into the horizontal position. It is dangerous to move the saw on the wheels without the saw frame locked down.
+Paul Turney That's correct Paul. Yeah, I learned the hard way about not putting in the locking pin when moving it around. Good thing I didn't loose a toe! G.
Hey. Thanks for very informative vid. I did buy an almost identical bandsaw and I know where to start to make it work better. One question for You: Any chance You could measure the feed spring for me? (Unloaded spring length, spring diameter, spring wire diameter). Mine does not have any descent control and I want to add something. Spring might be simple enough. Thanks!
Thanks Rafal. Just measuring with a rule- it looks to be about 8" unloaded length (not including connection points), 1" diameter, and about 1/8" wire diameter. Hope this helps, G.
Ghostses you keep are to referring to these tools as Harbor Freight, I think they do have company names like Chicago and Central. If you can refer to which one would be benefictial just in case some purchases the wrong one than described.
Yes brizz, they do use names on their tools like that, but they are only available at HF. In my later videos I've begun adding the HF item number so folks will know "exactly" which model of tool I'm reviewing. You've been watching some of my really old stuff. The newer stuff should be clear to you and others. Thanks again and good luck, G.
Hi Ghostes, do you ever lubricate the blade when making cuts? I've heard guys put ATF or other thin oils on the stock to extend blade life and make cleaner cuts. What's your experience? Thanks in advance.
No, I never lubricate the blades- only cut slow and dry. Lube probably would help, but I don't like the mess and get good use out of my blades. Take care, G.
Can you elaborate on how to set the downfeed spring tensioner so the saw cuts down through at the proper speed? Is it dependent on the type of metal being cut? Or do you simply set it so the blade arm has enough downward tension (cutting horizontally) to cut down at an even speed without bouncing up?
Ken, you're pretty much spot on in regards to your questions- they're all correct and are all yeses. But for me, I usually just use one feed rate for all types of material. I cut slower to save wear on the blade and I don't mind if it takes longer to cut. The only time I really change the feed rate is when cutting thin material. Since it cuts so fast, I slow down the rate of feed. Or I will hold the saw and manually slow down the feed so I don't have to make any adjustments. I say play around with what works for you and stick with that. Hope this helps, G.
That's not a bad price Freddy! Yeah, they've really gotten too strict on the coupons over the years. At the time of shooting this video- they were much less strict. Take care, G.
I'm not sure which part of the video you're referring to to hear what I said, but in the video I notice it looks like my lower guide holder isn't moved as far to the right as it is now. Maybe by a 1/4" . So yeah, longer stock would run into the lower guide holder as it was in the video. I didn't change the setup on my saw to verify if it would clear now, but by eye- it looks like a longer piece may just squeak by without making contact. Take care, G.
Paul Turney LOL.. I've been waiting for my checks to come but they keep telling me they're in the mail. My main aim is to show folks what to expect, or not, for their money- and to make something better if possible. It allows them to get into a hobby, or do something on the cheap, where they might not otherwise. Take care Paul, G.
Mine worked just fine right out of the box. Only thing tho is I was moving it and it tipped over and bent the motor cover. Unfortunately I turned it on and all the plastic blades inside the cover broke off. HF doesn’t sell the plastic fins so for now I’m using it with no cooling fins. Anyone got any ideas?
The same thing happened to me Jack- but it took the belt cover instead. I would start searching for motor fans to see if you can locate something that will work. Good luck, G.
hi; my bandsaw just started 'stalling', or catching the blade against the work, while the motor still runs and wheels turn - don't know if there is an adjustment that would help - any idea? it also wants to pull the cut left, or right - using new blade, too. thanks!
+mlminto Off the top of my head, I would first start trying to add more tension to the blade. Secondly, make sure you have at least three teeth in contact with the work at all times. Thirdly would be to slow down the feed rate some. Also check the contact rollers adjustment. The blade drifting might be as simple as not enough tension, and too fast of down feed. Or maybe even the roller bearing adjustment. Hope this helps, G.
Is that with the blade remove on the last step? If so is your rule the same thickness as the blade? So when the blade is reinstalled you make no other adjustments.
All adjustments are made with the rule pinched in-between the roller bearings. After you think you have it right- remove the rule and install the blade. Then, only adjust the outboard bearings to tighten them up to the blade. Make a test cut, check it, then adjust if required. Hope this helps, G.
Hi! I really hope y o u reply by tomorrow as i need the answer for tomorrow but can you please tell wheat are the accuracy and settings required for you to be able to do a job properly on this machine?? Thanks
After adjusting mine like I've noted in the video, it's extremely accurate. My friend has one and it worked fine right out of the box. I do recommend a better blade. I've never used it in the vertical position, so I can't comment on it in that regard. Good luck, G.
Jeb Gardner Thanks Jeb! I'm glad you like them. I took a quick peek at my saw and it appears with very little modification you could actually cut up to about 5X5 based on my measurements. Providing the castings haven't changed between this saw to now, I only see one thing that would need to be done on my saw. The blade guard door itself would need a about a 1/2 wide section cut out of it- maybe 7-8" long. Other than that, you should have no problem with what you want to do. I hope this makes sense and good luck, G.
***** By blade guard door are you referring to the opening above the blade? Height being the restraint? Meaning the top would hit the material i am trying to cut without modification? If so do you think a handsaw could be used to trim it down? I've highlighted it on this snip. drive.google.com/open?id=0B_JlgPqqMusfSnpGTTBwaDZpbEE&authuser=0
Jeb Gardner Jeb, it's hard to convey things in text sometimes so I'm going to do one better. I will shoot a clip explaining what I mean, and how it could be done and get it posted. I will post the link here after it's uploaded. It might give others some ideas to increase the capacity of the saw as well. Give me a bit and I will get back to you. G.
don't you just flip that lever into the slot after you get it in the vertical position ? I haven't put mine together yet but I thought you can put that lever into the different slots to hold the saw in a semi upright position or fully upright position
@@ghostses I only have the Bauer deep cut portaband mounted on the Swag table. Its good for small jobs and short stock but hard to manage long stock. I have looked at the HF the Wen and Grizzly band saws and they are almost bolt for bolt identical. Might just wait or a good HF coupon. Thanks🙂
Hola tengo una sierra de estas y no he podido configurar el corte de manera correcta , sigo los pasos del video pero aún así sale mal ! Algún otro consejo?
If everything is setup correctly and it still doesn't cut straight- you might get a new good quality blade to try. A blade that is dull on one side will cause the blade to not cut straight. Good luck, G.
+ExtantFrodo2 No I did not, but that's certainly was an option. I just went with it and it's been working great for me all these years. A friend of mine has a newer model over mine, and it was setup properly right out of the box. I can't see every one being that way, but his was. For the money, and how well they work- it's a hard deal to beat. This is one of the HF gems IMO. Good luck, G.
***** I managed to get the 44991 milling machine into my basement in sections. In you opinion, does this come apart enough to manage it? What is the heaviest single part?
+ExtantFrodo2 That's cool! According to their site, the shipping weight is about 131lbs. If you have a dolly to strap it to, you might be able to get it down there boxed. If not, the cast saw base and pivot arm would be the heaviest single part. You could separate the two if need be and hand carry. I would guess separating the two would cut the weight of that assembly in half- round about. Hope this helps! G.
+ExtantFrodo2 No problem! If you do get one, please feedback with your thoughts as it might help others out. Be sure to use a 20% off coupon! Take care, G.
Ghostes , let me ask so when cutting metal you don't use any lube at all and it doesn't dull the blade I am new to bandsaws I just ordered a wen band saw
I don't use any at all and my blades last quite a long time. Mine usually snap before they're dull. I do cut really slow though. I don't mind if it takes longer to cut. It's better than a mess for me. Good luck, G.
Thank you very much for your review. I've got a kind of a crazy question for you though, at the very beginning of your video in the top-left area of the screen there are some yellow colored leg levelers. I have been looking for something with a large base like this with both what appears to be a 3/8 bold and a 2 in length. If there was a source for these that you found would you please share that thank you
Thanks Joe! I got them at Wholesale tool. Mine are 3 1/8" diameter with a 3/8 by about 2 1/2 or 2 7/8 bolt. Here's a link that lists all their sizes, but they don't list the bolt specs. Hope this helps, G. www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/15976/
Hi I used my saw yesterday it's cutting well i have sep it up well but slight vibration, I see a guy has increase the height and fitted it on legs. Mine is up about 6 inch so it's better i can live with that. R
Good deal! It is a low saw as it is. I don't make many cuts at once, so it doesn't bother me. If I did, I'd be raising mine up as well. Glad it's working out. G.
Any idea what would case the blade to slip off the rear bearing? Happens at random... blade vertically aligned to 89.95 couldn't get it perfect 90... It's perfectly align horizontally.
Not off the top of my head. Some things to check would be the tracking to make sure the blade is running towards the back of the wheels. And make sure the blade is touching the rear bearings. The head where the bearings are attached do move in a slot so they can be adjusted. Tension should also be checked. Plus the down feed rate might be too fast. Not really an answer, but things to look into. Good luck, G.
ghostses Thanks for the suggestions! It seems to be fine now. The bearing that roles against the back of the blade needed more pressure against the blade.
bigcrotchdan I'll try! There's a hole in the side of the saw with a set screw on top. This is where you would insert the round rod and tighten it down. The stop is also adjustable with a set screw in it as well. You would measure from the outside of the blade and set the stop where you want it. Make a scratch cut and then measure for accuracy. Once correct, make your cut. Then advance the stock to the stop and cut again. You can install a new longer rod to get more length for repetitive cuts. I hope this helps! Good luck, G.
Amen and Amen. If I'm unsure about an operation, I find a different way to do it. I also removed those guards. The bottom one would rotate into the blade and stall the machine. The second time, that thing came off and went into the metal scrap bucket.
Theball Player Thanks! When I said that in the video, I meant every word. I agree, if I don't feel safe doing an operation, I'm probably not and going about it wrong. The best tool I've ever owned is locked inside my cranium..lol. I've been hurt plenty, and learned a valuable lesson every time. Accidents do happen, but most are caused by user error. Most of my injuries were certainly self induced. Take care, G.
notpcone My first thought would be to ditch the factory blade and get a bi-metal blade with the proper TPI for the job- if you're using that factory blade that is. That brings me to my second thought- what thickness of material are you cutting and how many TPI is the blade? Whatever you're cutting, you would always want at least 3 teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times. Basically the thinner the stock, the more TPI you want. If you don't have enough teeth in contact with the piece, it would be snagging on a tooth and pulling the blade off. Blade tension could also be the problem. If anything, I would reduce the tension a bit and retest. You might also slow the down-feed rate to see if that helps. That's where I would start if I had the problem. There's a solution somewhere so I hope this helps get you started in finding it. Good luck, G.
I replaced the blade yesterday. Better results, but after maybe a minute of cutting, it still jumps off. Checked tension, checked and adjusted rollers............?
notpcone Hmm, two things I would check. One are the bearings behind the blade. I could see if they're adjusted too far forward under tension it might force the blade to flex, which could force it to ride off the wheels. On my saw, the two castings are lined up on the top. You can see this at 27.53 in the video. You can see how the two castings are in line above my finger. I would check to see if yours is like this. If not, make the adjustments. If so, tracking would be the next thing to check. The tracking should be adjusted so the back of the blade is very close to the flange on the back of the wheels, but not touching them. Down feed pressure should also be considered like I said. You can slow it down by holding it as it's cutting to see if that helps. G.
I"m suspect of the bearing in the upper band wheel. When I loosten tension to put the blade back on, I notice the wheel has a lot of play in all directions. When I fit the Blade back on and Tighten the wheel to put tension back on the blade the "play" is almost gone. This saw was my fathers........it's gotta be 20 years old. Might just be time to replace it.
notpcone Ahh, I'd made the assumption it was a new saw. It's probably green since it's that old. Since the bearings in the upper wheel seem to be shot, I would replace them. That may be the only problem to get it working good again. If they're shot, I can see how it could change the tracking under load and throw the blade. You should be able to locate them locally for less than $10 for both. If the old saw uses the same bearings as the new, they should be a 6202Z bearing. They will be marked on the shield. If you do replace them, rather than tossing the saw, feedback if it fixed the problems. It might help others out as well. Good luck, G.
Customer service "great" at HF??? I have been dealing with them since they started and if they have one over riding weakness it is lack of customer service in their parts department and slow delivery times for parts. You must have been dealing with some other HF!! To solve your height and your balance issues mount the saw on a doubled up piece of 3/4 ply with castors on them. It worked for me. I have had it for 25 years and it is a performer. I can wheel it anywhere with confidence and don't need to worry about the pin. Doug
+Douglas Thompson LOL... In this case Doug, they had the part in the states so it only took a few days to get to me. I do know if the parts are coming from overseas, that is if they even have parts, it can take weeks to get something. Good info on the base! I know it's a great saw for the money- but 25yrs great???...lol. I can't calculate how many times over yours has paid for itself. That's outstanding! Take care, G.
No problem. For what they cost, it's an excellent purchase. Look for a 25% off coupon to save a good chunk. I have a video up somewhere that includes a link to the coupons and some other free stuff. Good luck, G.
+Danny Boggs No I don't. But even if I did, I wouldn't be using this for an anchor since it is an awesome saw! I agree some of their stuff sucks- but not all by any stretch. I have some really good stuff from there, and at a great price. I have tools from the top shelf down and purchase them accordingly- based on my needs. Take care, G.
That's not good Bruce! While mines never seen a massive amount of use- it's still working fine. Hopefully you can find a replacement that will fit. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses Dollar Tree sells a plastic turkey baster for $1. Don't use your wife's nice glass one. Another option is a 50cc Syringe on Ebay with tubing for about $2 or without tubing for $1 shipped free from the PRC.
You people in america give the impression that everything is top quality ! Obviously this bandsaw is a pile of shit. You guys do yourselves NO favours by buying this cheap rubbish. Companys like Harbour freight are changing the standards . It would be better if they sold this saw in kit form because it's enevitable that your going to rebuild it anyway
Opinions vary. I've had it for 6yrs and it still works great. For what it costs, the quality is not that bad. What you're missing here is we're all not made of money, and many "better" saws (among tons of other tools and machines )are out of reach for a lot of us. Would I use it in a production environment- no. That's where HF plays a role for the home gamer, to allow many to get into something, a hobby, etc. where otherwise folks may not be able to. I agree about the "kit" comment, but not about this saw. Other things I've purchased have had to be modified to work better- but I knew it going in. The spotty QC or workmanship on some items are reflected in the price though. I have no problem saving money and finishing the kit myself. Take care, G.
Thanks for the upload and the lesson.I just bought the same band saw and had a crunched pulley,a broken blade,a leaking gear box....I replaced both pulleys with machined alum 3 tier pulley wheels,made Hrbr.Freight give me a couple of blades,they reimbursed pulley costs but not shipping,thats o.k..And then started it up,piss poor tracking,noisier than most of the engine rooms I sailed in. Ch.Engr.30 years Merchant Marine tugboats and lg.commercial fishing vessels.I asked the You Tube genie for videos and bam there you,and others were.36 min.later I started the mods and adjustments and ended up with a fine, quieter,beautifully tracking bandsaw.I use it mostly in verticle position, doing resaws on hardwood for the guitars I build.Once again thanks for the post and video it was right on target
Thanks James! I'm glad the video was useful. It sounds like yours was banged up pretty bad. I'm glad they took care of you to your satisfaction. The HF in my area is great to take care of any problems. I know what you mean about the noise...lol. I didn't shoot a clip on how loud it was, but you couldn't stand to be in the same room with it as it was. I'm glad you were able to get it running well. Making an acoustic has been on my bucket list for years. Hopefully someday I'll get around to it. Thanks for the post, take care, and good luck! G.
love comments like this thank you sir
So I decided after 4 years of owning this saw I'd throw it out...I just couldn't get it good enough for anything of value. I'm so glad I found you video; I got it working perfectly unlike ever before. Thank you!
That's cool! Glad the video we helpful in getting it working well. A much better ending over tossing it out! Take care, G.
Hey Ghostes...around minute 16:00 you talk about milling the top surface of the small vertical cutting table in order to make it level. I'll save you some time and effort. I found that putting a washer under the table where the table is lower and using a longer screw to hold the table down at that point will level off the table so you can use it effectively when cutting in the vertical position (provided you use the right thickness washer). Much easier and quicker than milling the table!
Good tip Ken, that would make quick work of sorting out the problem. I never used it in the vertical position, and have since purchased an upright saw. But if I ever do, the washer and bolt will be my first choice. Thanks, G.
Your review was most helpful in my decision to purchase one. I was about to buy it new for $210 with discounts applied. But on the day of my purchase I saw a nearly new green color saw of similar kind for $50 . I went , I saw and I bought it And it cuts beautifully even with the cheap blade. The stand may look flimsy but once assembled and bolted tightly, it holds the saw firmly well. It is low, but I think it is a perfect height for non production use. A simple yet efficient machine. It takes a little bit of time to cut compared to the massive machine in production houses or metal shops. I keep mine in the basement shop and it runs smoothly without any intolerable noise. A compact good machine. It is worth spending money on a good blade. I don't understand why people complain about it. An ideal machine for home and hobby use.
+John Babu
That's cool John! I agree with everything you said. You can't beat $50 for your green saw. I know HF used to sell it in green, so it may be one of the older units. Either way- good score! Good luck, G.
Thanks for posting this. I purchased a version of this saw that was made in the '80s. The issue I have had with it was that it was off approx .120 from top to bottom over about 1 1/2 inches. Your tips ought to help me finally get it tuned in so that there is less cleanup on each cut.
Thanks Robert! Good luck getting it dialed in! Take care, G.
Man I was totally impressed with your cut at the end. Kudos too you.
As was I Jack! Turned out great. Take care, G.
You covered all the stuff HF missed in their owners manual
THANK YOU!!!
+Tony De Leo
LOL! Thanks Tony! Yeah, their manuals leave much to be desired. Glad you found the video useful! Take care, G.
Grizzly sells the equivalent saw their manual is much better written and detailed you can download it for free off their website. Grizzly also sells parts for their version of this saw at a reasonable cost I believe that most of the spare parts would be a direct fit or a "close" fit with some modification.
Totally agree with your review about this machine. I think people need to remember how much they paid for things before moaning! I bought one of the UK brands of this machine & it cost me 286 GBP, that's a lot more than $157 but worth every penny!!! Set up properly, mine cut through 120mm square box section with a 5mm wall. I had to rotate it twice but it still cut through it with ease. As for the height, You put the workpiece on & leave it to cut, it's not like you have to bend down & stay there to cut it by hand. Brilliant little machine now it's set up following your instructions
+archiearchie666
Thanks! That's too true in some cases. When I purchase/review something, I always do with my expectations being set accordingly to what was paid for it. A little mod here and there, or some tweaking can really turn something into a great tool. It mine ever quits, I'll happily purchase another one for sure. I'm glad the video helped you get yours setup. "Brilliant little machine"- Agreed! G.
WOW! I've been struggling with my saw for about 5 years and just now stumbled on this great video. Thanks you so much for posting this! The manual doesn't come close to covering what you did. Now I'm going to check out your other videos. Thanks again!
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Browse around my channel for anything of interest. Take care, G.
Best i instructional video, my beileigh 128 was acting up as the blade was walking from the pulley and found out i had to use an ellen hex instead of the bolt shown to turn the pulley so that the belt doesn't slip off and give me bad cuts and thanks for the easy to understand instructions to get the best performance out of the saw.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful with getting yours sorted out. Take care, G.
Thank you my friend. Very in-depth and informative video. I wasn't going to buy this model, even though the price was great (especially on sale for $200) but I went right out purchased it after watching your video and now i know what to do to make it workable for my needs. Good Job!!
No problem Mike! Good luck with yours. I hope it works out well for you. G.
Hey Ghostses,
This is Steve, the guy who asked you a bunch of question about your Atlas Horizontal Milling Machine rebuild a couple of years ago. It's good to see that you are making more videos about interesting stuff like this Harbor Freight vertical and horizontal band saw. I have the same exact band saw and it has worked flawlessly since the day I bought it.
But looking for to watching what you have come up with to modify the one you have. So I can do the same thing to the one I have.
I will say though, I do think that the stand on these band saws could use some type of modification. If nothing else, at least the wheels definitely need to be replaced. With something more heavy duty, and the stand could use some beefing up so it can handle the weight of the band saw.
Good to hear from you Steve! I do remember you.
Mine has been left stock all these years and has been working well for me. I don't know if any mods will come in the future- but will post them for sure. I've had a hydraulic down-feed in my head- but never moved on it.
Personally, I don't have any issues with the stand- but agree on the wheels. I saw a video recently where it looks like they've changed the wheels out for something better. Their site still shows this style though- so I'm a bit confused. Take care, G.
This is an excellent tutorial for setting up and tuning the Harbor Freight bandsaw. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
G'day Rick thanks mate for this great video on how to set up one of these saws. I have new one and changed the blade and then the problems started with alightment and the blade on a angle to the work piece. Your video explained it very well on how to go about fixing this in a methodical way so thank you once again John Tasmania Australia
No problem John! I'm glad you found it helpful. Once you know how to go about it, it's easy to get it cutting well again. Take care, G.
Excellent video, just bought the clarke version (same saw) different color and wanted to see exactly how to set it up properly and this video has been absolutely spot on in answering all of my questions , thankyou
Thanks Hollie! I'm glad the video contained everything you were looking for. Good luck with your new saw, G.
I was about to push mine off a cliff. I will try to use these adjustments.
Big thanks
Frank
Good luck Frank! G.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I used it to setup my new 550W Chinese bandsaw (all I could afford here). I vigilantly adjusted everything as you showed (for hours really), yet I still couldn't get a decent cut. At the end of the cut, I kept finding right side of the blade making an angle from the stock, while the left was square (and when not cutting, the blade was dead square to the vise, I used parallel bars and an angle ruler). I kept getting cuts with a vertical angle, with more material at the bottom. I soon realized that, when I pushed the saw part, the hinge shaft was actually moving about 1mm up and right in its loose hole when it was all the way down (also moving the blade away from stock). All was good when it was all the way up, due to weight on that part .So, I drilled and tapped 2 x M6 screw holes (piece of cake on this cheap cast iron), screwed in setscrews and stabilized them with non-permanent Loctite clone. The resulting motion was very smooth. Is this a general defect, or did I just fix a not really critical problem? Later on, I broke a blade trying to cut a 60mm x 60mm (23.6" x 23.6") square pipe with 3mm wall thickness. Do you think 14 TPI is too low for such materials (had no problem with 70mm aluminium log)? Yes, factory blade.
+technoshamanarchist
No problem. I would think you corrected a defect with the setscrews. The first thing to do would be to replace the factory blade with a known good quality one- which you have to now. I use Starret blades just for reference. Lenox would be another good choice. I don't know tons about blades, but if the set was not correct- it could cause it to wander the cut. A 14, 18, or a variable pitch 14/18 should be fine for what you're cutting. You might even be able to go with a slightly more aggressive blade for the tubing. The log, you could go to about 3-4tpi. If you're still having the problem after a new blade, you might try slowing down the feed rate. Here's a link to a Lenox document that had some very good information on selecting a blade for particular stock- page 21. It might help you find a happy medium. Hope this helps, G.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0CB0QFjAAahUKEwikzrzG2_DIAhVU1GMKHeXoAHQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lenoxtools.com%2FGuides%2FLENOX%2520Guide%2520to%2520Band%2520Sawing.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGwK0_Ppvc-XVzrHuPv9NtRfIk__A&sig2=Ey4I_GIvfl5CAcquGuXN3Q&bvm=bv.106379543,d.cGc
+ghostses Thank you so much for taking the time for such a detailed response. The document you provided is also a gem! Since I'm new to bandsaws, I think my feedrate was rather fast. I ordered some blades from ebay. The only brand name I could find was Draper. Not many of the sellers send to where I live. I got 14 and 24 TPI ones. Thanks again; keep making swarf and teaching us new tricks :)
+technoshamanarchist
No problem! I agree, it's loaded with tons of good information. Yeah, try slowing the rate down. I think between the blade, and maybe feeding too fast- that was your problem. Especially since you took the time to get the saw dialed in. Once you get them in and tested, let me know the results. Good luck, G.
+ghostses I will tell you about the results when my blades arrive. I put your video on my blog along with my little hack, hope you don't mind. Thank you again, sir :)
+technoshamanarchist
No I don't mind. Go ahead and post a link to your blog here so others can see your hack. G.
Wow Pal!!! I Just saw the cut and blew me away what setup can do for this machine. Very Impressed! Thank you!
No problem! Just a little tweaking and it works like a dream. Glad you liked the video and good luck, G.
I adore this machine even if it is a nightmare to ajust...and there are so many ways to modify and improove it... Actually, I have two of them since one was given to me because the motor was burned. So, this one is always used in the standing up position to cut free hand, I am amazed to see how often I use it..
I am planning to use a speed nut to adjust the whith of the vise, a spped nut and a screw like the ones used on a 14 inches grinding saw...
+remige2006
Agreed! They are great little machines. A speed nut would be a great mod! My Milwaukee cut off saw has one. If you do mod it out, or have reference to one that has been done, I would love to see it. Good luck, G.
thanks ..I do have a brand new blade as I was watching your video very intently I realized I didn't approach the problem even close to the way I should have,,that was a nice video and you explained it perfectly, I fee quite confident that I can make it work thanks to your video and clear explanation,,thank you so much..
No problem Steve. Blades themselves can cause funny problems, which is why I mentioned it. Since you have a known good blade, you're well on your way. Take your time and you can get it! Good luck getting yours dialed in! G.
I made an auxiliary table that does not rely on being mounted via those screw holes. I used a piece of 3/8" scrap plate from the metal yard as the table surface. But I don't use it for anything precision. Mostly lap joint cuts in steel angle.
That's cool! G.
The man is right,! It takes lots of patience to get these little saws back to cutting with precision should you loose the setting. Vibration may loosens set screws followed by to much pressure at some point and the saw start throwing band blades which means the fun has started. I have had several of these little saws and it seems to me that Harbor Freight is not the only one selling this exact same saw. There are other company's that sell this saw with a different name plate, different color! (Even JET) Each may be a bit difference set of roller blade guides but all is the same for the most part. If I am not mistaken this saw is made in Taiwan. My suggestion is that if you own one of these saws, take the time and use a metal scribe to outline the roller blade guide setting before you loose them. It might just save you hours of frustration some day. Thanks for your time.
+axelec
Thanks! Agreed, there are many differently badged versions of the saws with subtle differences. I would bet they all come from the same factory. Monday they're red, Tuesday's green, Wednesday's white, etc...lol. Mine says China, but I'm not sure of the newer ones.
Great tip on scribing things! After spending the time to get it just right, a small slip up and you're starting from scratch. Using marks would at least get you back in the ballpark- if not even dead on. Good stuff! Take care, G.
Great video indeed. I recently bought an old HF 4X6 band saw from a guy advertised on Craigslist. He was asking $150.00 and it was made in 1994. It looked pretty good in the photo, so I offered $100.00. I bought the saw for $100.00 and much to my surprise, it's in great shape for being that old. I cleaned up a little dirt and some surface rust on the table. Today I made a couple of cuts and they were very smooth and accurate. Your saw is a bit more sophisticated, but there haven't been many changes in twenty years. Mine lacks those safety pins with chains, but for the most part it's identical. I expected to have to make lots of adjustments or repairs but this saw is great. Now for the part about it tipping over backwards, your warning comes a day late. Yesterday I was tipping it way back and sure enough it started to fall over backward but the only thing that kept it from happening was my shin, and yes it left a mark ;- ) . I was able to prevent it from falling thankfully. I think I will change out those cheap wheels and install a shaft to hold the wheels. Just something to do, as I am 77 years old and retired.
Again thanks for the great video it is very helpful.... Ken ...Marina CA
Not a bad score there Ken! Sound like you got a good saw after cleaning it up- and for a good price. It sounds like you took a good beating on the shin to save it. I guess my warning is better late than never I guess. At least now you know the problem first hand and can address it to prevent it from happening again. Thanks for the post and good luck, G.
This was a great video. I got the identical saw (did someone say only manufactured for HF?) at Northern Tool. I usually buy tools as dirt cheap as I can, then rebuild them, for a couple of reasons: if they break, you know how to fix them, save bucks, and, well, I think it's fun.
When I got mine, I'd never even seen a metal cutting bandsaw, and knew nothing whatsoever about them. No prob, grab the manual and go to work, right?. The problem is that the NT manual was the worst, most incomplete thing I'd ever seen- so far even as having references to pictures that weren't even there. I was almost completely lost, just started taking stuff apart until I figured out how this works, that works, until I discovered it was identical to the HF saw. The HF manual was only slightly better, but your video did the trick. GREAT! DOUBLE GREAT!
Being as ignorant about these things as I am, though, I have a question. The blade has a slight twist in it coming from the drive pulleys (about 15 deg or so). The NT customer support people said this was as it should be, but it seems odd. Furthermore, with this slight twist, the back of the blade is against one of the guide bearings. The docs say (as you said) some very slight distance or barely touching the guide bearings. I can't adjust mine far enough to where the blade is not touching the bearings, and the back touches but not the front. Am I doing something wrong here?
Also, great idea about milling off the support thingy for the vertical platform. Haven't worried about it yet, except to just set it up vertically to see what it looked like, and, indeed, it looks like a sinking ship listing to starboard- awful. I was going to shim it; your idea is much better.
Again, great and double great. Awesome video. Too bad the manufacturer doesn't produce something of equal quality.
Thanks! I'm not sure what they were talking about as these saws are re-branded and sold at many places. I'm right there with you on saving cash, and fixing or modifying them as I see fit. It's a good way to get to know the tool to be able to fix them like you said.
I've not seen the NT manual, but the HF manual is lacking for sure.
The twist in the blade is normal. I'm not sure why it's there, but that's just the way it is. I adjusted the inner bearings using the ruler to get everything square to the table and the back of the vise, then put on the blade and adjusted the outboard bearings. I adjusted the outboard bearings until they were just snug so all play was removed- but not jamming tight. You should be able to turn the outboard bearings with your fingers- with some resistance. They speak of leaving a gap with a feeler gauge- I think it was about .001. I really didn't do that because it messes with the accuracy of the saw in my opinion because of the twist in the blade as it leaves the drive wheels. Trying to leave a gap and still adjust it to cut straight would be a loosing battle in my opinion. I played around with it for a while and came up with my method of adjusting that works for me. As far as bearings wearing out, the saw turns so slow I don't think it would ever be a problem. If it is, I will replace them on the cheap. It's worth it for me to have a good cutting saw instead of worrying about bearing life. I don't think you're doing anything wrong. Just play with it and you will get there.
Yeah, the casting to hold the table is horrible to say the least..lol. Milling would be the best solution in my opinion. The saw has such a small throat, it's very limiting in what could be done in the vertical position. I've still not used it vertically and never will, so I've never corrected the problem.
I'm glad you found some info in the video that might be useful to you. Stay at it and you will get it dialed in.
Good luck,
G.
*****
Wow! Thanks for the quick reply. So I guess it looks like I'm on the right track. I did notice in replaying your video that your blade has that twist in it, too, so I'll live with it and use the ruler technique (again, third time, which is, of course, the charm:).
Can't imagine what they mean by leaving the .001" gap when the blade is twisted like that (yeah, I saw that, too, which is one thing that really confused me), but I'm taking your bearing comments to heart, and moving on.
Here we go...
*****
One other problem is that I can't get it square to the vise (table no problem). There doesn't seem to be enough eccentricity in the bearing shaft to move it enough. If you don't have any further insight here, I can alway offset the vice angle to compensate. Kludge for sure.
*****
No problem! You are on the right track as far as I'm concerned. I think I was on the 5th or 6th time charm. It's a pain to get it just right, but you can.
I think they mean to pinch in a feeler gauge which would force the blade straight then take it out for clearance. But, when removing it- it will let the blade twist and in effect throw everything else off. Yeah, don't worry about the bearing life. If they ever wear out, I bet 5-10 bucks will gain a new set no problem.
G.
*****
Hmm. If you set the vice to 0 degree on the chart and can't move both inboard bearings to get it the blade to square up with it, there is something wrong. I would guess the chart may not have been put on correctly. I was able to do it on mine, but that doesn't mean it will work for all of them. If for sure you don't have the adjustment room, get it as close as you can and then adjust the vise to the blade and lock it down like you said. I don't rely on the chart anyway as they are not accurate at all. I cut mostly 90's but if I need to cut an angle I use a protractor to set the angle.
I think you're just about there!
Good luck,
G.
Got mine last week for $200 and it seems to cut square right out of the box. I guess I got lucky. Most Harbor Freight merchandise is very cheesy but this saw is remarkably well made. The wheels are a bit Mickey Mouse but they hold it up and let it move around. The only problem I have had is with the table in the upright position. The two top screws are not long enough to get both of them in at the same time as they are probably a little out of alignment. I will fix that later. I did not notice if the blade was straight with the table as I was just cutting some slots in a piece of wood and they did not need to be accurate. Thanks for sharing.
Good deal! My friends cut straight right out of the box as well. This is definitely one of their gems for sure. I agree on the wheels, but mine still work well enough. Good luck with yours, G.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the process you used. VERY, Very helpful. I luv this saw. But ive been doing a lot of work (stainless tubing) lately. And its come out of adjustment. I just had to find your video again. And "BANG" im back up and running. These saws are by far the best product out there. But if you take the time, and follow this gentlmans instructions. You will have outstanding performance for this $200 dollar saw.
No problem man! Glad the video helped to get yours dialed back in. I agree, for what they cost (and with a little adjustment) they're a great buy. I can't imagine being without mine. Take care, G.
Excellent job on the video and details! I bought one from an estate sale and I love it!!!
Thanks Kenneth. Glad you found it informative. It's a great saw. Take care, G.
My old green one came with a thumb screw, but neither of the extra blade guards. Still only as loud as your saw is now.
That's cool chuck! The thumbscrew is nice, but the guards are useless in my opinion. They're great machines- especially for their cost. Take care, G.
That is a great review.I'm looking at buying a similar bandsaw
Thanks! They're a great tool to have. I love mine. Good luck with whatever brand you get. Take care, G.
Hi thanks for the reply, yes i have seen this make on ebay i will order some and same size 64.5. To move my saw around in my workshop i just fitted caster and removed the wheels and it's made so easy to move around, a great saw for the money.
R
No problem Ron! Casters is a good idea. I don't move mine, so I've never made any changes. Agreed! For the money, it's hard to beat. Take care, G.
just seen your vid the lever on the right and side is for holding the saw vertical
Thanks Steve! Take care, G.
To use the vertical table, instead of machining the blade guide, simply make a shim for the low side to square the table to the blade. If you make it out of steel, you could tack weld it to the underside of the table so you won't lose it. Much simpler.
Good info John! Thanks for the tip. I'm sure it will benefit others. Myself, I have a vertical saw so I don't use this one vertically- so it's not been an issue I've addressed. Thanks again and take care, G.
For vertical lock look beneath the saw on the right and you will see a lever that flips up and locks it.
+Douglas Thompson
Thanks Doug! G.
Great vid, gives me some confidence to use this saw for 'once in a while' work.
Thanks! It really is a great saw for the money. Take care, G.
ghostses, My saw is from 1990 and I noticed only one blade guide bearing shaft per side is an eccentric. The other bearing shaft is straight. I cannot adjust a gap large enough to fit a rule or have a blade adjustment work. Have you heard of this problem. Great video... Thank you for sharing!
No Jim, I've not heard of the problem. I guess they've made changes over the years and added the other two eccentric bearing mounts. I'm not sure how thick your rule is, but perhaps you can find one thinner to use. I'm trying to think of another something to use- but nothing comes to mind. Since you don't have 4 adjustment points for the bearings- I'm assuming the outboard bearings are the ones that are adjustable. If so, and since you can't adjust the blade to be 90 to the back of the vise with the vise on zero, just square the vise to the blade by turning it and locking it back down. That should take care of getting the vise and blade perpendicular to each other. Getting the blade perpendicular to the table should be the same as I've shown I would guess. You just need to get something straight you can fit in-between the guides. I hope this helps and let me know what you come up with as it might help others with the old machines. Good luck, G.
***** Thanks Ghostes... I am going to pursue trying to get two more eccentric shafts from HF. I would like the ability of adjustment for thicker blades. I have very little leeway for blade thickness as it stands now. I put in an email request for the eccentric shafts from HF. We'll see how their service dept. responds... Had to send an email... they don't answer the phone...
Some excellent info in here. Let me ask this though. If you take you blade off and use a straight edge to correct the tilt in blade, your guide heights probably won't be correct for the blade and you will have to loosen after reinstalling the blade to get the vertical bearing just above blade, losing your tilt adjustment. This is where I think leaving the blade on and using the magnet with a small straight edge on side of blade may have a large advantage. How did you deal with this issue?
This is years old Sean so I can assure you I'm rusty here. The straight edge was used to set the reference 90 degrees to the base as well as setting it 90 degrees to the fence using the inboard cams on the bearings. After getting things dialed in- the blade was installed and the outboard eccentric bearings adjusted. As for the vertical bearings (behind the blade)- a simple tracking adjustment should give any gap you want achievable. Hope this helps, G.
Well 9 months later and it’s still cutting good without the fins on the motor. Couldn’t find them anywhere. You have to buy the whole motor in order too get them. Any way it works just fine. Oh yeah I got mine too cut the same way yours does. But whenever ya change the blade you got too adj the rollers again but not as much. 🤪🤪🤪
That's cool Jack! Yeah, if your change the blades- you do need to make adjustments here and there as you've found. Glad yours is working out well for you. Take care, G.
Another excellent and informative video. Question from someone not familiar with the use of this type of saw. Are they useful for more than just repetitive cuts? I have a Delta vertical band saw with at 14 inch throat and other types of cutting tools (plasma cutter, cold cut saw, etc.), but I am intrigued by this saw. They are on sale now, and with the now common 25% coupon, I can take it home for about $200. If you could elaborate on its use I would appreciate it. Again, and excellent video. I am so tempted to get one!
Darryl, they can be used in a vertical position to cut items as well. The throat isn't very deep so you would need to be selective on what can be cut. I'm not sure what Delta you have, or if it's only a woodcutting saw, but metal cutting saws run extremely slow when comparing the two. If yours is just for woodcutting, you might entertain getting this saw for horizontal cuts as well as using it in the vertical position. But again, keep in mind the throat limitation- it's probably about 2.5 inches. Hope this helps, G.
***** Yes, my Delta is a 14 inch throat wood band saw that I have put a metal saw blade on and have cut thin metals. There is no adjustment as to the blade speed. I saw one today in the store. It is much smaller than I had imagined - will not take up a lot of room. Thanks for the reply.
Darryl Mansfield
Good deal! I just wanted you to be aware of the speed difference between metal and woodcutting saws- in case you didn't already know. You are correct, they're not that big. Good luck if you pick one up, G.
***** Thanks -- I went to HF yesterday and asked why so many 25% coupons are appearing lately. They told me that the 25% coupon is now the new 20%. I have been collecting and saving them, but they told me that I need not do that since that is all eel will pretty much see from now on. Good news indeed!
Darryl Mansfield
That is good news for sure. I have another video posted with a link to a coupon page. I use it to print off 25% as well as there are free items you can get that might be useful to you. You might check it out. G.
I have the same saw. The problem I'm having is that blade as it's cutting has a little bounce. Every rotation of blade it does this. I've looked as it's cutting and it's not rubbing on either of pulley wheels. It's a new saw about month and half I have gotten it. I've did the blade roller adjustments. Cuts square but has the bounce. Any suggestions?
The only think I can think of is the blade may be welded a bit crooked. You might try another blade. G.
Very good video, thinking about buying one. Thanks.
Thanks. Hope it was helpful. Good luck, G.
To lock the saw into the vertical position, there is a bracket with a locking pin that pivots and engages into a notch in the right front side of the cast iron frame. The pin on the right back side locks the frame into the horizontal position. It is dangerous to move the saw on the wheels without the saw frame locked down.
+Paul Turney
That's correct Paul. Yeah, I learned the hard way about not putting in the locking pin when moving it around. Good thing I didn't loose a toe! G.
Hey. Thanks for very informative vid. I did buy an almost identical bandsaw and I know where to start to make it work better. One question for You: Any chance You could measure the feed spring for me? (Unloaded spring length, spring diameter, spring wire diameter). Mine does not have any descent control and I want to add something. Spring might be simple enough. Thanks!
Thanks Rafal. Just measuring with a rule- it looks to be about 8" unloaded length (not including connection points), 1" diameter, and about 1/8" wire diameter. Hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses Helps a lot. Gives me a ballpark to aim for. Simmilary sized metric spring ordered, lets see what happens.Thanks again!
Good deal! Good luck with it. G.
Ghostses you keep are to referring to these tools as Harbor Freight, I think they do have company names like Chicago and Central. If you can refer to which one would be benefictial just in case some purchases the wrong one than described.
Yes brizz, they do use names on their tools like that, but they are only available at HF. In my later videos I've begun adding the HF item number so folks will know "exactly" which model of tool I'm reviewing. You've been watching some of my really old stuff. The newer stuff should be clear to you and others. Thanks again and good luck, G.
Hi Ghostes, do you ever lubricate the blade when making cuts? I've heard guys put ATF or other thin oils on the stock to extend blade life and make cleaner cuts. What's your experience? Thanks in advance.
No, I never lubricate the blades- only cut slow and dry. Lube probably would help, but I don't like the mess and get good use out of my blades. Take care, G.
It's called blade guide :) Thanks so much for the video
Thanks John...lol. Take care, G.
VERY well explained!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.
Helpful video,simple basic adjustments for those who buy saw tipe like this, like me. You good
Thanks! G.
Well done sir. Thanks for making this vid. I was on the fence now I'm sold.
Arock PCB Thanks! For the money, it's a great saw. If you pick one up, let me know what you think. Good luck, G.
Can you elaborate on how to set the downfeed spring tensioner so the saw cuts down through at the proper speed? Is it dependent on the type of metal being cut? Or do you simply set it so the blade arm has enough downward tension (cutting horizontally) to cut down at an even speed without bouncing up?
Ken, you're pretty much spot on in regards to your questions- they're all correct and are all yeses. But for me, I usually just use one feed rate for all types of material. I cut slower to save wear on the blade and I don't mind if it takes longer to cut. The only time I really change the feed rate is when cutting thin material. Since it cuts so fast, I slow down the rate of feed. Or I will hold the saw and manually slow down the feed so I don't have to make any adjustments. I say play around with what works for you and stick with that. Hope this helps, G.
***** Thanks for the advice!...and nice job with the video!
Ken F
No problem, and thanks! Good luck, G.
Ken F
$200 sell right now! I think thats about the best you'll get now a days. Cant use the 20% on Chicago Electric unfortunately
That's not a bad price Freddy! Yeah, they've really gotten too strict on the coupons over the years. At the time of shooting this video- they were much less strict. Take care, G.
How is it possible that a longer pipe cannot fit at 45 degrees, the saw holder is in the way?
I'm not sure which part of the video you're referring to to hear what I said, but in the video I notice it looks like my lower guide holder isn't moved as far to the right as it is now. Maybe by a 1/4" . So yeah, longer stock would run into the lower guide holder as it was in the video. I didn't change the setup on my saw to verify if it would clear now, but by eye- it looks like a longer piece may just squeak by without making contact. Take care, G.
Nice video, I am in the market for a metal band saw glad I came across your channel.
Thanks for sharing.
No problem Rich. For what it costs, it's a great saw. Good luck, G.
Oops, added my two cents worth before I watched the entire video. Thanks, and good job, it helped me get my saw tuned up.
+Paul Turney
LOL...That's cool Paul. Glad it helped you out! For the money, it's the best saw out there in my opinion. Good luck, G.
I am happy with mine. You deserve a commission from Harbor Freight. I'm sure that your video, especially the "wafer" demonstration sold lots of saws!
Paul Turney
LOL.. I've been waiting for my checks to come but they keep telling me they're in the mail. My main aim is to show folks what to expect, or not, for their money- and to make something better if possible. It allows them to get into a hobby, or do something on the cheap, where they might not otherwise. Take care Paul, G.
Very educational. Thank you. This will help greatly in my saw overhaul!
-Will
Thanks! Good luck with your overhaul. Take care, G.
unbelievable !! I would not of believed it if I hadn't seen it !!
Thanks Wayne! Take care, G.
Mine worked just fine right out of the box. Only thing tho is I was moving it and it tipped over and bent the motor cover. Unfortunately I turned it on and all the plastic blades inside the cover broke off. HF doesn’t sell the plastic fins so for now I’m using it with no cooling fins. Anyone got any ideas?
The same thing happened to me Jack- but it took the belt cover instead. I would start searching for motor fans to see if you can locate something that will work. Good luck, G.
hi; my bandsaw just started 'stalling', or catching the blade against the work, while the motor still runs and wheels turn - don't know if there is an adjustment that would help - any idea? it also wants to pull the cut left, or right - using new blade, too. thanks!
+mlminto
Off the top of my head, I would first start trying to add more tension to the blade. Secondly, make sure you have at least three teeth in contact with the work at all times. Thirdly would be to slow down the feed rate some. Also check the contact rollers adjustment. The blade drifting might be as simple as not enough tension, and too fast of down feed. Or maybe even the roller bearing adjustment. Hope this helps, G.
Is that with the blade remove on the last step? If so is your rule the same thickness as the blade? So when the blade is reinstalled you make no other adjustments.
All adjustments are made with the rule pinched in-between the roller bearings. After you think you have it right- remove the rule and install the blade. Then, only adjust the outboard bearings to tighten them up to the blade. Make a test cut, check it, then adjust if required. Hope this helps, G.
Hi!
I really hope y o u reply by tomorrow as i need the answer for tomorrow but can you please tell wheat are the accuracy and settings required for you to be able to do a job properly on this machine??
Thanks
After adjusting mine like I've noted in the video, it's extremely accurate. My friend has one and it worked fine right out of the box. I do recommend a better blade. I've never used it in the vertical position, so I can't comment on it in that regard. Good luck, G.
Thank you very much :)
Princess Fab
No problem! hope it helps, G.
Ghostes - your videos are great. I'm wondering if i could use or modify this saw to cut hollow square tube aluminum that's 4 3/4'' x 4 3/4'' ?
Jeb Gardner Thanks Jeb! I'm glad you like them. I took a quick peek at my saw and it appears with very little modification you could actually cut up to about 5X5 based on my measurements. Providing the castings haven't changed between this saw to now, I only see one thing that would need to be done on my saw. The blade guard door itself would need a about a 1/2 wide section cut out of it- maybe 7-8" long. Other than that, you should have no problem with what you want to do. I hope this makes sense and good luck, G.
***** By blade guard door are you referring to the opening above the blade? Height being the restraint? Meaning the top would hit the material i am trying to cut without modification? If so do you think a handsaw could be used to trim it down? I've highlighted it on this snip. drive.google.com/open?id=0B_JlgPqqMusfSnpGTTBwaDZpbEE&authuser=0
Jeb Gardner Jeb, it's hard to convey things in text sometimes so I'm going to do one better. I will shoot a clip explaining what I mean, and how it could be done and get it posted. I will post the link here after it's uploaded. It might give others some ideas to increase the capacity of the saw as well. Give me a bit and I will get back to you. G.
Jeb Gardner Jeb, I've posted a video that might help you out. Take care, G.
ua-cam.com/video/3GbykC0LAIg/v-deo.html
don't you just flip that lever into the slot after you get it in the vertical position ? I haven't put mine together yet but I thought you can put that lever into the different slots to hold the saw in a semi upright position or fully upright position
Yes- that's correct. I cover it towards the end of the video. Good luck with yours, G.
Exceptionally well explained. Thank you!
Thanks Fred! Take care, G.
Very nice and helpful review. Thnks.
Thanks, G.
Nice detailed video. You can just made a proper shim to level out that upper small table
Thanks! That's true. I never bothered to do anything with it since I also have a vertical saw. Take care, G.
@@ghostses I only have the Bauer deep cut portaband mounted on the Swag table. Its good for small jobs and short stock but hard to manage long stock. I have looked at the HF the Wen and Grizzly band saws and they are almost bolt for bolt identical. Might just wait or a good HF coupon. Thanks🙂
Yeah, I'm pretty sure they all come from the same factories- just slight differences, color, stickers and packaging. G.
Very helpful info looking at buying one of these
+Lorddarthvader1701
Thanks! It's probably the best saw for the price. Be sure to look for a 20% off coupon! Good luck, G.
Hola tengo una sierra de estas y no he podido configurar el corte de manera correcta , sigo los pasos del video pero aún así sale mal !
Algún otro consejo?
If everything is setup correctly and it still doesn't cut straight- you might get a new good quality blade to try. A blade that is dull on one side will cause the blade to not cut straight. Good luck, G.
At around the 19:00 minute mark you talk about trying get the bottom wheel off. Did you try heating it?
+ExtantFrodo2
No I did not, but that's certainly was an option. I just went with it and it's been working great for me all these years. A friend of mine has a newer model over mine, and it was setup properly right out of the box. I can't see every one being that way, but his was. For the money, and how well they work- it's a hard deal to beat. This is one of the HF gems IMO. Good luck, G.
*****
I managed to get the 44991 milling machine into my basement in sections. In you opinion, does this come apart enough to manage it? What is the heaviest single part?
+ExtantFrodo2
That's cool! According to their site, the shipping weight is about 131lbs. If you have a dolly to strap it to, you might be able to get it down there boxed. If not, the cast saw base and pivot arm would be the heaviest single part. You could separate the two if need be and hand carry. I would guess separating the two would cut the weight of that assembly in half- round about. Hope this helps! G.
*****
It does help. 60 lbs is manageable on a dolly hand truck. I might go for it. Thanks
+ExtantFrodo2
No problem! If you do get one, please feedback with your thoughts as it might help others out. Be sure to use a 20% off coupon! Take care, G.
Ghostes , let me ask so when cutting metal you don't use any lube at all and it doesn't dull the blade I am new to bandsaws I just ordered a wen band saw
I don't use any at all and my blades last quite a long time. Mine usually snap before they're dull. I do cut really slow though. I don't mind if it takes longer to cut. It's better than a mess for me. Good luck, G.
Thank you very much for your review. I've got a kind of a crazy question for you though, at the very beginning of your video in the top-left area of the screen there are some yellow colored leg levelers. I have been looking for something with a large base like this with both what appears to be a 3/8 bold and a 2 in length. If there was a source for these that you found would you please share that thank you
Thanks Joe! I got them at Wholesale tool. Mine are 3 1/8" diameter with a 3/8 by about 2 1/2 or 2 7/8 bolt. Here's a link that lists all their sizes, but they don't list the bolt specs. Hope this helps, G.
www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/15976/
Thanks much!
No problem! G.
Hi I used my saw yesterday it's cutting well i have sep it up well but slight vibration, I see a guy has increase the height and fitted it on legs. Mine is up about 6 inch so it's better i can live with that. R
Good deal! It is a low saw as it is. I don't make many cuts at once, so it doesn't bother me. If I did, I'd be raising mine up as well. Glad it's working out. G.
Any idea what would case the blade to slip off the rear bearing? Happens at random... blade vertically aligned to 89.95 couldn't get it perfect 90... It's perfectly align horizontally.
Not off the top of my head. Some things to check would be the tracking to make sure the blade is running towards the back of the wheels. And make sure the blade is touching the rear bearings. The head where the bearings are attached do move in a slot so they can be adjusted. Tension should also be checked. Plus the down feed rate might be too fast. Not really an answer, but things to look into. Good luck, G.
ghostses Thanks for the suggestions! It seems to be fine now. The bearing that roles against the back of the blade needed more pressure against the blade.
No problem! Glad you got it sorted out. Take care, G.
Extremely informative Video
Thanks Mike! Good luck, G.
Fast forward to Jan 2022... These NOW sell for $329.00!! NO CHANGE to the machine, just raised the price!
Yeah, that's not right. Crazy no doubt. Take care, G.
Can you tell me or show me how the stock stop works. I t dont say or show how it works in the manual
bigcrotchdan I'll try! There's a hole in the side of the saw with a set screw on top. This is where you would insert the round rod and tighten it down. The stop is also adjustable with a set screw in it as well. You would measure from the outside of the blade and set the stop where you want it. Make a scratch cut and then measure for accuracy. Once correct, make your cut. Then advance the stock to the stop and cut again. You can install a new longer rod to get more length for repetitive cuts. I hope this helps! Good luck, G.
yes it help alot..i got it fiqured out now,,thanks so much
How do you lock it in to the vertical position?
Here's the spot in the video where it's noted. Good luck, G.
ua-cam.com/video/oImXgU3ATEk/v-deo.html
where is this "other review" you speak of? Ive searched all of your videos and i dont see it
Could you refresh my memory of what I was speaking about? I'll try to point you to whatever it was. Thanks, G.
If you're dumb enough to stick your finger there while the machine is running, you don't need that finger!!!! Love it.
+archiearchie666
LOL! I firmly believe it too! Take care, G.
Amen and Amen. If I'm unsure about an operation, I find a different way to do it. I also removed those guards. The bottom one would rotate into the blade and stall the machine. The second time, that thing came off and went into the metal scrap bucket.
Theball Player
Thanks! When I said that in the video, I meant every word. I agree, if I don't feel safe doing an operation, I'm probably not and going about it wrong. The best tool I've ever owned is locked inside my cranium..lol. I've been hurt plenty, and learned a valuable lesson every time. Accidents do happen, but most are caused by user error. Most of my injuries were certainly self induced. Take care, G.
excellent explanition, thanks!!! help me a lot
Thanks Rey! Take care, G.
great review
Thanks Anthony. Take care, G.
Hi, any thoughts why my band keeps jumping off while under Load? It stays on fine without cutting. Tension is firm. Cant figure it out. any thoughts>?
notpcone My first thought would be to ditch the factory blade and get a bi-metal blade with the proper TPI for the job- if you're using that factory blade that is. That brings me to my second thought- what thickness of material are you cutting and how many TPI is the blade? Whatever you're cutting, you would always want at least 3 teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times. Basically the thinner the stock, the more TPI you want.
If you don't have enough teeth in contact with the piece, it would be snagging on a tooth and pulling the blade off. Blade tension could also be the problem. If anything, I would reduce the tension a bit and retest. You might also slow the down-feed rate to see if that helps.
That's where I would start if I had the problem. There's a solution somewhere so I hope this helps get you started in finding it. Good luck, G.
I replaced the blade yesterday. Better results, but after maybe a minute of cutting, it still jumps off. Checked tension, checked and adjusted rollers............?
notpcone Hmm, two things I would check. One are the bearings behind the blade. I could see if they're adjusted too far forward under tension it might force the blade to flex, which could force it to ride off the wheels. On my saw, the two castings are lined up on the top. You can see this at 27.53 in the video. You can see how the two castings are in line above my finger. I would check to see if yours is like this. If not, make the adjustments. If so, tracking would be the next thing to check. The tracking should be adjusted so the back of the blade is very close to the flange on the back of the wheels, but not touching them. Down feed pressure should also be considered like I said. You can slow it down by holding it as it's cutting to see if that helps. G.
I"m suspect of the bearing in the upper band wheel. When I loosten tension to put the blade back on, I notice the wheel has a lot of play in all directions. When I fit the Blade back on and Tighten the wheel to put tension back on the blade the "play" is almost gone. This saw was my fathers........it's gotta be 20 years old. Might just be time to replace it.
notpcone Ahh, I'd made the assumption it was a new saw. It's probably green since it's that old. Since the bearings in the upper wheel seem to be shot, I would replace them. That may be the only problem to get it working good again. If they're shot, I can see how it could change the tracking under load and throw the blade.
You should be able to locate them locally for less than $10 for both. If the old saw uses the same bearings as the new, they should be a 6202Z bearing. They will be marked on the shield. If you do replace them, rather than tossing the saw, feedback if it fixed the problems. It might help others out as well. Good luck, G.
Great video, thanks
Thanks Jake! Good luck, G.
Thanks. VERY helpful.
Thanks, G.
Customer service "great" at HF??? I have been dealing with them since they started and if they have one over riding weakness it is lack of customer service in their parts department and slow delivery times for parts. You must have been dealing with some other HF!!
To solve your height and your balance issues mount the saw on a doubled up piece of 3/4 ply with castors on them. It worked for me. I have had it for 25 years and it is a performer. I can wheel it anywhere with confidence and don't need to worry about the pin. Doug
+Douglas Thompson
LOL... In this case Doug, they had the part in the states so it only took a few days to get to me. I do know if the parts are coming from overseas, that is if they even have parts, it can take weeks to get something.
Good info on the base! I know it's a great saw for the money- but 25yrs great???...lol. I can't calculate how many times over yours has paid for itself. That's outstanding! Take care, G.
the book says it takes a 60 in blade is it a 60 or 64 1/2 ?
Mine is 64 1/2. Hope this helps, G.
I'm torn between the DeWalt 5.5 HP chop saw and this band saw. Any suggestions? Great video 👍👍. Consider me a subscriber.
Patrick, I'm not familiar with the DeWalt so I can't make any recommendations. All I can say is this works great for my needs. Good luck, G.
Hi I couldn't just catch the name of the blade you recommend
Ron, the blades I use are of the Starret brand. Lenox and Moorse are also good brands. This saw uses a 64.5" blade. Hope this helps, G.
Really Good Video.
AMBICA BANDSAW Thanks! G.
Thank you very much for the information..
No problem! G.
Great video
Thanks Dave! Take care, G.
Thanks for the video, nice review.
Jim
No problem and thanks Jim! Good luck, G.
Use a syringe to remove the oil...
Good tip! Thanks, G.
A thrift store turkey baster, toss when done. ☺
You probably can't move the guide wheels in much farther than you have them now because the guide wheels hit the frame.
You are 100% correct. I never really looked at them too closely, but they will hit the base casting for sure. Thanks for pointing that out, G.
Thanks !! I'm going to buy one.
No problem. For what they cost, it's an excellent purchase. Look for a 25% off coupon to save a good chunk. I have a video up somewhere that includes a link to the coupons and some other free stuff. Good luck, G.
Thank you!
No problem! G.
Ghostses-do you own a boat?purchase one and very soon.that way you could use your Harbor Freight Band saw for a anchor.tools there suck.
+Danny Boggs
No I don't. But even if I did, I wouldn't be using this for an anchor since it is an awesome saw! I agree some of their stuff sucks- but not all by any stretch. I have some really good stuff from there, and at a great price. I have tools from the top shelf down and purchase them accordingly- based on my needs. Take care, G.
I noticed someone else as fitted wheels so he can move his saw in and out of his workshop
That's cool! G.
I had one with the same chinzie motor; one day it self-immolated.
That's not good Bruce! While mines never seen a massive amount of use- it's still working fine. Hopefully you can find a replacement that will fit. Good luck, G.
turkey baster should be able to suck the gear oil out instead of tearing the saw all apart
Good tip Rick! Any advice on wrestling it from the wife to use it for oil...lol. Take care, G.
@@ghostses Dollar Tree sells a plastic turkey baster for $1. Don't use your wife's nice glass one. Another option is a 50cc Syringe on Ebay with tubing for about $2 or without tubing for $1 shipped free from the PRC.
nice !!!!
Thanks Ron! Take care, G.
You people in america give the impression that everything is top quality ! Obviously this bandsaw is a pile of shit. You guys do yourselves NO favours by buying this cheap rubbish. Companys like Harbour freight are changing the standards . It would be better if they sold this saw in kit form because it's enevitable that your going to rebuild it anyway
Opinions vary. I've had it for 6yrs and it still works great. For what it costs, the quality is not that bad. What you're missing here is we're all not made of money, and many "better" saws (among tons of other tools and machines )are out of reach for a lot of us. Would I use it in a production environment- no. That's where HF plays a role for the home gamer, to allow many to get into something, a hobby, etc. where otherwise folks may not be able to. I agree about the "kit" comment, but not about this saw. Other things I've purchased have had to be modified to work better- but I knew it going in. The spotty QC or workmanship on some items are reflected in the price though. I have no problem saving money and finishing the kit myself. Take care, G.