That's how all mini splits work. They continuously circulate a small amount of air to keep the temperature constant and even throughout the room. I'd much rather that than have it turn on and off. With no fan you get hot spots in the room quickly. There is no reason to worry about "wear and tear" on a small fan running at 10% capacity. If it's built right, it should run at low speed for years without issue. The constant hard start and stop is much more degrading on bearings and motors than continuous running at low speed.
I’ve had one in my Brinkley since October. I actually like the feature, since it keeps air moving in the rig. Easy to shut off with the remote if you have power draw concerns. I can understand if you have the rig plugged in at home and you’re just keep some heat/humidity out, but I will gladly take the trade off in the performance. I can’t explain to people how awesome it is, you just have to see it in person.
If it is based on the mini split design then the thermostat sensor is inside the unit and not the remote. It has to circulate air all the time to know what the true temperature in the space is.
With the fact that most rv’s have 2 or more a/c units, it’s ridiculous that with today’s technology they haven’t introduced zoned systems sharing single condensing units.
That unit is still using less power to keep it cool in their then the one you removed did starting and stopping all the time. That’s how they are designed to work and they are more efficient that way.
I can think of 2 concerns related to your thoughts here: 1: typically most damage to electrical devices occurs during start/stop, so are you sure you are adding wear? 2: it would be an interesting test to see what the watts used over 24 hours of this unit to maintain a temp vs the traditional unit. Theoretically this unit would still use less energy
Try the ECO mode setting. this is the same remote my cheap Mini Split uses and the same my Midea Window Inverter are using. When you put in Eco - nothing changes just that the fan shuts off about 2-3 minutes after the compressor shuts down. It cycles then the fan every 15-20 minutes or so get a better reading of temperature.
Are you sure it is not just a post run purge? I am not sure if that is the correct term for it but many high end AC units run the fan for several minutes after the compressor cuts off because the cooling fins are still ice cold when the compressor cuts off and it makes sense to ring every bit of that cooling out of the unit you can while you can with just the relatively low energy usage of the fan. Edit: I just read the manual sounds like it may be in " ECO/GEAR" mode I think if you turn that off it will behave like a normal AC
I am definitely interested in the ducted version. This version of acceptable for a small travel trailer unit. I need 3 for an 45!foot motor home but it must be DUCTED or I am not interested.
I intend to buy the Chill Cube when they resolve this issue. I’d also be interested to know the compatibility with an existing thermostat that runs two ACs and the heater.
It would be nice to have the option but for sleeping i would prefer the constant fan. Even though its quite the consistent fan noise doesn't wake me up like my unit that goes on and off.
Needs to have a shore power mode that is what it’s doing with fan on all the time . Have a boondocking mode so fan cuts off after a minute or two after compressor shuts off when t-stat is satisfied.
You can use a switchbot2 hub to turn it on and off based on the temp in the rv. When the temp is reached it will send the IR off signal then when the temp goes up it will send the IR on. Simple fix for less than a micro-air thermostat.
Hopefully it's a simple software update. In any case, I hope they take your advice. These were on my shopping list based on your last video and just came off based on this one.
The thermostat for the unit is in the return air, the fan has to run to be able to measure the air temperature. They would need to add a thermostat to the remore to do what you want. But since these units are not available for retail for at least another year. Who cares.
Wow that is super helpful information. If I was running off of my batteries/inverter, that would be a deal breaker (fan not turning off). Wasting precious battery power.
The simple solution would have been to change out the front ac and left the back one in place then you would have the auto function and the heater would work as designed.
The indoor fan shouldn’t continuously run. There is a timer after the compressor shuts off that will keep the fan running for a short time after because the evaporator coil is still cold. However if the indoor fan continuously runs it will pull humidity back into the rv.
I agree... i like how my main thermostat ac on auto turn on and off. The bedroom nob ac is constantly running and i hate that. I also noticed that since it is constantly running, the bedroom gets very humid. The main unit that turns on and off, the humidty actually goes down in my rv. So i rarely run the bedroom ac because of those problems.
Great videos. Do you know of the timeline for release on the hitch and suspension upgrades? Might you know if any of the manufacturers will use the or be an option? Thxs
I can understand the frustration, but in my rv if I put the thermostat in auto, the moment the fan kicks off (when it's peak heat at 95, full sun), the lack of airflow really makes it feel hot. If I need it quieter, I just turn it to low.
My Houghton 3400 runs the same way. It’s annoying to have the fan running constantly and seems like it pulls in humid air when then humidity outside is high but temperature is not high enough for the compressor to kick in.
Had the same issue with my Recpro 8900. I modified it with a time delay relay. When the compressor turns on, the fan starts and when the compressor stops I have a three minute delay then the fan turns off.
Could you give me more information on your time delay on your recpro? I've got a truma AC in my new camper and the fan runs continuous after the compressor kicks out. Raises the humidity 20%. I would love to be able to shut the fan off. The humidity gets so bad here in Tennessee I can't stand to use this AC. Thanks
@@frankthill6163 Sorry for the late reply. I used a GRT8-B1 AC/DC 12V~240V Off Timer Relay, Mini Power Off Delay Time Relay from Amazon. It uses power from the compressor as a trigger and controls the power to the fan motor. It has a time delay that I use to allow the fan to run for a few minutes after the compressor stops.
@@citationxpilot2293 thanks for the part number! I will definitely be doing this upgrade in the near future. The AC is just about useless the way the humidity jumps 20% until the next cycle. I've since learned that my true my has a separate thermostat so the air doesn't need to be moving across the intake to read temperature. As an experiment I turn my Coleman Mach 3 to continuous fan instead of Auto and it raised the humidity the same amount.
Isn't the whole point of a variable speed ac that it doesn't have to cycle on and off? It can cool as much or as little as it needs and not always full blast or off? Likewise, turning off or on is the hardest thing on an AC. Short cycling is what will kill an AC not leaving it running all the time.
I believe he’s certainly entitled to his OWN opinion. I absolutely agree with him about the fan constantly running. The end user should have the CHOICE of turning it off. The constanly running fan is a deal breaker for me 100%.
On the old Furrion multi zone thermostat you took off the fan would not shut off either. In the auto mode fan cycles between 3 speeds depending on temperature, but it never shuts off. Terrible design.
Absolutely need the AC to shut down completely in an RV. The humidity is out of control with a constant fan and compressor kicking on and off. We recently purchased a Winnebago Micro Minnie with manual controls and I am currently trying to determine what a good replacement unit would be with the proper auto cool setting.
Running the fan at low speed and cycling the compressor is actually a more efficient way to dehumidify the air. That's how mini splits work on the dehumidify setting.
@@EVoltage00 traditional rv air conditioner is not a mini split though. My unit raises the humidity to over 80% inside the camper with the fan running constantly. A modern variable speed mini split is way better because it can scale back the compressor to run longer at less load.
Thank you for the detailed content on this unit. I fully intend to purchase the Furrion Chill Cube when it becomes available. (P.S. Dumb name and marketing strategy. If this is truly shifting the industry, why would you want to associate it with the previous poor performing Furrion Chill units?) I guess I should say, I plan on purchasing one of the cube units as long as they do not make the change you are requesting. Air needs to continue circulating to stabilize the air temperature and provide a more accurate average air temperature reading inside the RV. If the fan cycled completely off, the unit would restart within seconds to try to cool again as cool air settles and warm air rises. I can see adding a vacation mode or storage mode that shuts the fan off after the air temperature is 5 or more degrees cooler than the set temperature. That way you could put your RV in storage and set the thermostat for say 90 degrees. The A/C would run and cycle during the day as intended but then at night when the temperature dropped below 85 degrees it would shut the fan off completely so that it’s not running all night when A/C isn’t required. I could go for that. Keep the great content and updates coming. I appreciate that you are covering technology that is decades late to the RV industry. It’s about a manufacturer recognized the low hanging fruit. Now can we just get rid of the 20 year old decors and make LED lighting, variable speed furnace blower motors, linked heat/cool thermostats, built in solar wiring, and 12V refrigerators the norm? 😂
That's how all mini splits work. They continuously circulate a small amount of air to keep the temperature constant and even throughout the room. I'd much rather that than have it turn on and off. With no fan you get hot spots in the room quickly.
There is no reason to worry about "wear and tear" on a small fan running at 10% capacity. If it's built right, it should run at low speed for years without issue. The constant hard start and stop is much more degrading on bearings and motors than continuous running at low speed.
I’ve had one in my Brinkley since October. I actually like the feature, since it keeps air moving in the rig. Easy to shut off with the remote if you have power draw concerns. I can understand if you have the rig plugged in at home and you’re just keep some heat/humidity out, but I will gladly take the trade off in the performance. I can’t explain to people how awesome it is, you just have to see it in person.
If it is based on the mini split design then the thermostat sensor is inside the unit and not the remote. It has to circulate air all the time to know what the true temperature in the space is.
With the fact that most rv’s have 2 or more a/c units, it’s ridiculous that with today’s technology they haven’t introduced zoned systems sharing single condensing units.
That unit is still using less power to keep it cool in their then the one you removed did starting and stopping all the time. That’s how they are designed to work and they are more efficient that way.
JD, have you heard any timeline on when this unit will be available to the public?
I can think of 2 concerns related to your thoughts here:
1: typically most damage to electrical devices occurs during start/stop, so are you sure you are adding wear?
2: it would be an interesting test to see what the watts used over 24 hours of this unit to maintain a temp vs the traditional unit. Theoretically this unit would still use less energy
Try the ECO mode setting. this is the same remote my cheap Mini Split uses and the same my Midea Window Inverter are using. When you put in Eco - nothing changes just that the fan shuts off about 2-3 minutes after the compressor shuts down. It cycles then the fan every 15-20 minutes or so get a better reading of temperature.
This is how mini split systems are designed work. Remember to DRY the system before it shuts off completely or you will get mold/mildew inside.
Yes my mini runs for a while the the fan stops and the door stays ajar to keep it aired out then shuts later
Would love one of these for my sprinter build.....but not with a continuous fan. Agree with you!
Are you sure it is not just a post run purge? I am not sure if that is the correct term for it but many high end AC units run the fan for several minutes after the compressor cuts off because the cooling fins are still ice cold when the compressor cuts off and it makes sense to ring every bit of that cooling out of the unit you can while you can with just the relatively low energy usage of the fan. Edit: I just read the manual sounds like it may be in " ECO/GEAR" mode I think if you turn that off it will behave like a normal AC
I haven't run it in Eco, so don't think that's it
any update on the ducted version with a heat pump?
I am definitely interested in the ducted version. This version of acceptable for a small travel trailer unit. I need 3 for an 45!foot motor home but it must be DUCTED or I am not interested.
I intend to buy the Chill Cube when they resolve this issue. I’d also be interested to know the compatibility with an existing thermostat that runs two ACs and the heater.
It would be nice to have the option but for sleeping i would prefer the constant fan. Even though its quite the consistent fan noise doesn't wake me up like my unit that goes on and off.
I'm so glad you made this video! I was ready to buy 2 of these. Now I will wait.....
Needs to have a shore power mode that is what it’s doing with fan on all the time . Have a boondocking mode so fan cuts off after a minute or two after compressor shuts off when t-stat is satisfied.
You can use a switchbot2 hub to turn it on and off based on the temp in the rv. When the temp is reached it will send the IR off signal then when the temp goes up it will send the IR on. Simple fix for less than a micro-air thermostat.
Hopefully it's a simple software update. In any case, I hope they take your advice. These were on my shopping list based on your last video and just came off based on this one.
that does seem like an easy programming update to disable the fan when it's not cooling.
I will buy one when they incorporate heat pump and ducted units.
The thermostat for the unit is in the return air, the fan has to run to be able to measure the air temperature. They would need to add a thermostat to the remore to do what you want. But since these units are not available for retail for at least another year. Who cares.
I can live with that. How much power does it consume when the fan is running that way?
Wow that is super helpful information. If I was running off of my batteries/inverter, that would be a deal breaker (fan not turning off). Wasting precious battery power.
The simple solution would have been to change out the front ac and left the back one in place then you would have the auto function and the heater would work as designed.
When is the ducted heat pump available to us common people?
The indoor fan shouldn’t continuously run. There is a timer after the compressor shuts off that will keep the fan running for a short time after because the evaporator coil is still cold. However if the indoor fan continuously runs it will pull humidity back into the rv.
That’s not the intended purpose of a mini split they run 24/7 , the compressor cycles in and out at different rates that is what makes them efficient.
I agree... i like how my main thermostat ac on auto turn on and off.
The bedroom nob ac is constantly running and i hate that. I also noticed that since it is constantly running, the bedroom gets very humid. The main unit that turns on and off, the humidty actually goes down in my rv. So i rarely run the bedroom ac because of those problems.
I have a interest to buy the chill ac... but I will wait until they develop it to turn on and off automatically.
Is the chill cube available? Thanks
Great videos. Do you know of the timeline for release on the hitch and suspension upgrades? Might you know if any of the manufacturers will use the or be an option? Thxs
Where can I find this unit I’m not seeing it anywhere
Has one directional vent ? Thanks for intro .. Thanks
So since it has such a low draw and my appliances are 12v do you think it would be ok running on a 15amp home outlet?
I can understand the frustration, but in my rv if I put the thermostat in auto, the moment the fan kicks off (when it's peak heat at 95, full sun), the lack of airflow really makes it feel hot. If I need it quieter, I just turn it to low.
Do you know if the chill cube is available for aftermarket sales yet?
I called last week and they said not available until the end of this year.
My Houghton 3400 runs the same way. It’s annoying to have the fan running constantly and seems like it pulls in humid air when then humidity outside is high but temperature is not high enough for the compressor to kick in.
It does. The air blows condensation off the coil into the living space. Big issue with miniplits
They sense temperature thru the return air they have to run all the time
those fans run forever,
Had the same issue with my Recpro 8900. I modified it with a time delay relay. When the compressor turns on, the fan starts and when the compressor stops I have a three minute delay then the fan turns off.
Could you give me more information on your time delay on your recpro? I've got a truma AC in my new camper and the fan runs continuous after the compressor kicks out. Raises the humidity 20%. I would love to be able to shut the fan off. The humidity gets so bad here in Tennessee I can't stand to use this AC. Thanks
@@frankthill6163 Sorry for the late reply. I used a GRT8-B1 AC/DC 12V~240V Off Timer Relay, Mini Power Off Delay Time Relay from Amazon. It uses power from the compressor as a trigger and controls the power to the fan motor. It has a time delay that I use to allow the fan to run for a few minutes after the compressor stops.
@@citationxpilot2293 thanks for the part number! I will definitely be doing this upgrade in the near future. The AC is just about useless the way the humidity jumps 20% until the next cycle. I've since learned that my true my has a separate thermostat so the air doesn't need to be moving across the intake to read temperature. As an experiment I turn my Coleman Mach 3 to continuous fan instead of Auto and it raised the humidity the same amount.
How did you get this unit and how do i get one?? Please?! Sell me yours?!
Meanwhile in WI, it's 48°f, lol 😆
I think mine turns off in the Brinkley.
Fan running would be much less of an issue if it were ducted.
Why don't you want it to run? Seems like a total non issue.
Isn't the whole point of a variable speed ac that it doesn't have to cycle on and off? It can cool as much or as little as it needs and not always full blast or off? Likewise, turning off or on is the hardest thing on an AC. Short cycling is what will kill an AC not leaving it running all the time.
That's true when it comes to the compressor. Not the fan itself
Do you not think you are imposing your own expectations on the operation of the new unit? Get over it
I believe he’s certainly entitled to his OWN opinion. I absolutely agree with him about the fan constantly running.
The end user should have the CHOICE of turning it off.
The constanly running fan is a deal breaker for me 100%.
On the old Furrion multi zone thermostat you took off the fan would not shut off either. In the auto mode fan cycles between 3 speeds depending on temperature, but it never shuts off. Terrible design.
Absolutely need the AC to shut down completely in an RV. The humidity is out of control with a constant fan and compressor kicking on and off. We recently purchased a Winnebago Micro Minnie with manual controls and I am currently trying to determine what a good replacement unit would be with the proper auto cool setting.
Running the fan at low speed and cycling the compressor is actually a more efficient way to dehumidify the air. That's how mini splits work on the dehumidify setting.
@@EVoltage00 traditional rv air conditioner is not a mini split though. My unit raises the humidity to over 80% inside the camper with the fan running constantly. A modern variable speed mini split is way better because it can scale back the compressor to run longer at less load.
The music was a bit extreme at the end, could barely hear you talk
Sorry, editing issue
Thank you for the detailed content on this unit. I fully intend to purchase the Furrion Chill Cube when it becomes available.
(P.S. Dumb name and marketing strategy. If this is truly shifting the industry, why would you want to associate it with the previous poor performing Furrion Chill units?)
I guess I should say, I plan on purchasing one of the cube units as long as they do not make the change you are requesting. Air needs to continue circulating to stabilize the air temperature and provide a more accurate average air temperature reading inside the RV. If the fan cycled completely off, the unit would restart within seconds to try to cool again as cool air settles and warm air rises.
I can see adding a vacation mode or storage mode that shuts the fan off after the air temperature is 5 or more degrees cooler than the set temperature. That way you could put your RV in storage and set the thermostat for say 90 degrees. The A/C would run and cycle during the day as intended but then at night when the temperature dropped below 85 degrees it would shut the fan off completely so that it’s not running all night when A/C isn’t required. I could go for that.
Keep the great content and updates coming. I appreciate that you are covering technology that is decades late to the RV industry. It’s about a manufacturer recognized the low hanging fruit. Now can we just get rid of the 20 year old decors and make LED lighting, variable speed furnace blower motors, linked heat/cool thermostats, built in solar wiring, and 12V refrigerators the norm? 😂