A cheap LPM like this is great for getting ballpark estimates of laser power. If you add in some resistors that dissipate a known amount of power when a known current flows through them that are thermally coupled to the Peltier, you can calibrate the voltage to absorbed power constant, and if you know the percentage power absorbed by the spectrally flat black surface, you can work backwards to find your laser power. Also, wear certified laser goggles when working around high power lasers.
While this is an 'option' the result likely relies heavily on the consistency of a very cheap and cheerful Peltier device of an unknown efficiency. The 'better' option is you use a blackbody device of a known mass and measure the Temperature rise of that body. There was an Arduino based project for this and it used a 'known' Black Body Russ Sadler at Sarbarmultimedia was making for a time. But basically with a known Black Body (aluminium block) with a Thermocouple shoved inside you can work out a Power.
Hey, love your content! Your builds are always so impressive and inspiring. I was wondering if you could please do a build on: H-bridge inverter (PWM enabled) using MOSFET (N- channel only) and 555 timer IC (without using gate drivers) and other required components . And also state the limitations of such an project. It would be awesome to see your take on it, especially with your expertise in electronics. Keep up the amazing work, and I look forward to your next project!
Ojala hubieras hecho este video hace años... Has probado como funciona con diferentes longitudes de onda? O quizá se puedan programar diferentes presets para 605, 650, 535, 808, etc etc y seleccionarlos con el botón...
i wonder if a delta BSBX103HK-00C7E blower fan can be enough for internal cooling since it is a small fan that runs at 3.3v and only needs 60 ma to operate.
Great project and very well done video! It would be a bit tricky to do the calculations, but I think you could do an absolute calibration by placing a warm or hot object of known temperature very close to it, and calculating the black body radiation difference between the temp of the radiator and the temp of the sensor. Ideally I think you’d want the hot object larger and not too close (maybe a couple cm?) to the sensor to reduce thermal conduction through the air, have it painted the same black so it would have a high emittance, and put a cold plate right in front of the sensor with a hole in it the size of the sensor. The cold plate would mask off infrared radiation hitting the sensor from anything other than the hot object, and I think you’d be able to calculate the amount of incoming infrared energy pretty accurately. The math could be tricky, but I think it would be very do-able and possibly quite accurate. ChatGPT or Claude.ai could guide you through the math. Once again a great project, very well carried out!
If you check my previous experiment you will see that that's the idea. Use a resistor on the PCB to heat up the sensor and measure the power and compare... :)
@ELECTRONOOBS maybe using water at boiling point of 100c might give a good temperature calibration and have a round number that miight make the calculations a little easier? Idk tho, don't have any experience, it's the first thing that came to mind
200 dollars for that power meter!? What the actual heck? Brainiac75 made a video of this LPM and he compared it with a professinal one. The difference in accuracy is quite big for low mW values, unfortunately... It is a scam... Edit: it is not accurate even on higher laser power... It should cost way way less than that.
PCBWay, when can I use AI to get requirements for a project and have you make the entire thing and send it to me? One off manufacturing along with partners, using an AI driven procurement system to do an entire project to include automating the software needed. Automate the entire thing because I think this is the next wave of manufacturing. You see something cool but it doesn’t have all the features you want and you just hand your requirement to an AI system and it can even give you a 3-D mock up of it working automatically. When you think you’re happy it designs the entire thing and send it to you for almost no money.
Over time it will be able to guess what the demand might be for a particular product, and it may mass manufacture some parts based on previous procurement requests. You may make one of them and it shows up on social media and then you get a bunch more orders so it changes the manufacturing process to meet the demand
If I share the code and make sure all the parts are the same, you don't need the commercial meter. Second part of this project is to make sure it will always be the same....
not really you can buy a cheap genuine laser diode which has a proper datasheet and use that to calibrate the power meter as the datasheet will have the current vs power graph.
@@DynoRC this thing can't do more than a couple of watts and luckily you can get a few watt laser diode for very cheap, power it to get different outputs according to the datasheet and then make presets for different power ranges and that still would be the cheapest way to calibrate it.
A cheap LPM like this is great for getting ballpark estimates of laser power. If you add in some resistors that dissipate a known amount of power when a known current flows through them that are thermally coupled to the Peltier, you can calibrate the voltage to absorbed power constant, and if you know the percentage power absorbed by the spectrally flat black surface, you can work backwards to find your laser power.
Also, wear certified laser goggles when working around high power lasers.
I always searched for such a video because i never got a laser power meter in my hands so wanted to make one. Thanks for the video 👍
Love your videos, you are helping not only myself, but the students that I tutor. Thank you so much!
Really great project. I always wondered how these worked and the fact that it's just a peltier totally makes sense.
While this is an 'option' the result likely relies heavily on the consistency of a very cheap and cheerful Peltier device of an unknown efficiency. The 'better' option is you use a blackbody device of a known mass and measure the Temperature rise of that body. There was an Arduino based project for this and it used a 'known' Black Body Russ Sadler at Sarbarmultimedia was making for a time. But basically with a known Black Body (aluminium block) with a Thermocouple shoved inside you can work out a Power.
love your channel !
oh my god i actually needed this, thank you so much!
Hey, love your content! Your builds are always so impressive and inspiring. I was wondering if you could please do a build on: H-bridge inverter (PWM enabled) using MOSFET (N- channel only) and 555 timer IC (without using gate drivers) and other required components . And also state the limitations of such an project. It would be awesome to see your take on it, especially with your expertise in electronics.
Keep up the amazing work, and I look forward to your next project!
It looks very professional! I would be very interested in a homemade spectrometer in the future
@@oneil9615 already made one :)
Very cool project. I don't need a laser power meter, but I am happy to know how I could make one if I need it.
Excellent many thanks. 👌
Ojala hubieras hecho este video hace años...
Has probado como funciona con diferentes longitudes de onda? O quizá se puedan programar diferentes presets para 605, 650, 535, 808, etc etc y seleccionarlos con el botón...
Interesting project.
Instead of a mechanical switch, I like to use a pair of mosfet N and P channel with a timer in the Arduino code to switch off.
looks really good.
Puedes construir un cajon de clima controlado. Es para que el dispositibo tede mejores resultados en la tempetatura.
i wonder if a delta BSBX103HK-00C7E blower fan can be enough for internal cooling since it is a small fan that runs at 3.3v and only needs 60 ma to operate.
Your video are very good and knowledgeable but i don't understand 50% of time because they are too complicated for me.😅
Sweet!
Thanks a lot :)
Great project and very well done video!
It would be a bit tricky to do the calculations, but I think you could do an absolute calibration by placing a warm or hot object of known temperature very close to it, and calculating the black body radiation difference between the temp of the radiator and the temp of the sensor.
Ideally I think you’d want the hot object larger and not too close (maybe a couple cm?) to the sensor to reduce thermal conduction through the air, have it painted the same black so it would have a high emittance, and put a cold plate right in front of the sensor with a hole in it the size of the sensor. The cold plate would mask off infrared radiation hitting the sensor from anything other than the hot object, and I think you’d be able to calculate the amount of incoming infrared energy pretty accurately.
The math could be tricky, but I think it would be very do-able and possibly quite accurate. ChatGPT or Claude.ai could guide you through the math.
Once again a great project, very well carried out!
If you check my previous experiment you will see that that's the idea. Use a resistor on the PCB to heat up the sensor and measure the power and compare... :)
@ELECTRONOOBS maybe using water at boiling point of 100c might give a good temperature calibration and have a round number that miight make the calculations a little easier? Idk tho, don't have any experience, it's the first thing that came to mind
@@ELECTRONOOBS Haha - I’m a late-comer, but I guess great minds think alike 👍😂
Nice
lovely!
How many W can such an setup handle. Can I be used to test my 60W CO2 Laser Tube ?
definitely not, you need a specialized meter for such high powers
You and great scott are uploaded many videos at the same time, even this video also
I unsubbed from GS awhile ago.
We share the same time region
😂@@ELECTRONOOBS
200 dollars for that power meter!? What the actual heck?
Brainiac75 made a video of this LPM and he compared it with a professinal one. The difference in accuracy is quite big for low mW values, unfortunately...
It is a scam...
Edit: it is not accurate even on higher laser power...
It should cost way way less than that.
@gianluca458 yep :/
Check Tutorial and parts here: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_tut200.php
nice
Instead of painting with black paint, what if you used black iron oxide (see cold bluing)?
that is very black!
PCBWay, when can I use AI to get requirements for a project and have you make the entire thing and send it to me? One off manufacturing along with partners, using an AI driven procurement system to do an entire project to include automating the software needed. Automate the entire thing because I think this is the next wave of manufacturing. You see something cool but it doesn’t have all the features you want and you just hand your requirement to an AI system and it can even give you a 3-D mock up of it working automatically. When you think you’re happy it designs the entire thing and send it to you for almost no money.
Over time it will be able to guess what the demand might be for a particular product, and it may mass manufacture some parts based on previous procurement requests. You may make one of them and it shows up on social media and then you get a bunch more orders so it changes the manufacturing process to meet the demand
👏👏 👏
👍👍👍
🌹
this is very interesting tool but if someone wants to replicate it they will first need a" real lazerpower meter" for calibration won't it?😅
If I share the code and make sure all the parts are the same, you don't need the commercial meter. Second part of this project is to make sure it will always be the same....
not really you can buy a cheap genuine laser diode which has a proper datasheet and use that to calibrate the power meter as the datasheet will have the current vs power graph.
@@pvim these are great ideas!
Pelletier module may not respond linearly so no it will only be calibrated for the power range you can calibrate it to @@pvim
@@DynoRC this thing can't do more than a couple of watts and luckily you can get a few watt laser diode for very cheap, power it to get different outputs according to the datasheet and then make presets for different power ranges and that still would be the cheapest way to calibrate it.