I would like to thank you for your video. I am installing Skunk2 pro ST with 3.5 inch lowering and this was helpful. Truth be told the hardest part of this install is jacking the car up and lowering her down after a 3.5 inch lowering lol no room. bricks under the rubber.
Great video. Has it come to your mind to use loctite on the bolt at the lower arm (coilover bottom)? I saw some glue on the oem bolt and now I am wondering if I should use some loctite.
thank you, glad you liked it! I have not used any loctite and have not had any issues. But you could dab some on there. If you use the blue one i should not be an issue to break it loose when the time comes
I will try to do so! I have not driven the car with its stock suspension and tires though :). Needs some more seat time so I can give a somewhat good input. Any specific areas you would like to have covered
@@Themazcorner you can just tell us how the ride quality of the coilovers are, like if they are stiff or soft for daily driving. It's because I'm interested in coilovers but only for daily driving
Nice video! But you don't have to remove the sway bar if you work the whole front and rear axel at the same time. If you loosen both top mounts at the same time the sway bar will follow down when you remove the coilover. On older cars removing the swar bar can be tricky.
As the end link is connected to the control arm removing it gives much more freedom. On one side of the rear I did not disconnect the sway bar it was still possible to press the hub down without much effort as the sway bar is as thick as spaghetti :D
I've changed coilovers on both NB and NC MX-5 and didn't remove the sway bar. Much because they were impossible to remove due to age. Have a look at my channel if you want to see som driving action.
thank you and glad that it give some input. Jack it up to the point where more less that side lifts from the jack stand. The other option is to mount the wheels lower the car on to the ground measure the distance from the center of the hubs to the fender and then put the car back on stands and jack upp each corner so the center of the hub to the fender is the same. It is not an exact science doing it in this way. Using wheels cribs or doing it in a shop would be the best way with a four post lift.
very very good job how much does the pack cost? what length of settings do you have on it and what brand please? I know that's a lot of questions but for a miata there will never be enough ;-)
I am running Meister R Clubrace (quite stiff setup for a daily driver). These are more intended for the track, I would say the CRD or the GT1, or Öhlins R&T is a better choice for a daily driven car. Cost for the Clubrace are around 1200 EUR Height is around 33cm from edge of fender o the center of the wheel a little bit to low
Thank you, glad you liked it. I did not change the ride hide settings. However the rear end is a bit to low I will have to change that (will need re-alignment). It's around 13" much lower than stock though
thank you! I did jack the car up enough in the front jacking point order to be able to slide the jacks in the front and rear = one side at a time. But the jacking upp on the subframe would work fine as well. Not tried it on this car though.
They work but not possible to adjust when the braces are still mounted . Maybe if reaching in behind it is possible but you won't be able to see anything so have to go on feel it possible. One option is to take a step drill and just make a hole or go aftermarket. I think the same applies for all coilovers and the stock brace
@@Themazcorner Thanks! Also a fan of the Konig you have as well. On the fence because I'm not usually a fan of polish lips but gotta say, they look pretty good on the Racing Orange.
thank you :), I know I know. I have to do a follow up video with some driving impressions. The reason for not having it in this video was the fact I ceramic coated my calipers directly after while I had the wheels off.
Awesome quality video! I’m expecting the next video about a review of coilover. Keep going~!
Thanks! Yeah I sure will do. Will need some seat time to get a proper feel
Installed mine today using this video as a guide. Thanks so much.
hope it helped a bit and thank you :)! what coilovers did you install?
@@Themazcorner MeisterR CRD
I would like to thank you for your video. I am installing Skunk2 pro ST with 3.5 inch lowering and this was helpful. Truth be told the hardest part of this install is jacking the car up and lowering her down after a 3.5 inch lowering lol no room. bricks under the rubber.
haha yes the jacking up/down is a pain. I am looking into buying quickjacks :).
Great to hear that the vide helped out
Its time to revisit this now! 😉
hahahaha I see what you did there!
It shall be coming :D
Great video. I will be doing mine soon
Thank you, hope it helps out
Great video. Has it come to your mind to use loctite on the bolt at the lower arm (coilover bottom)? I saw some glue on the oem bolt and now I am wondering if I should use some loctite.
thank you, glad you liked it!
I have not used any loctite and have not had any issues. But you could dab some on there. If you use the blue one i should not be an issue to break it loose when the time comes
Can you give us a few months update with the coilovers afterward? Thanks in advance! Also, digging the t-shirt!
I will try to do so! I have not driven the car with its stock suspension and tires though :). Needs some more seat time so I can give a somewhat good input. Any specific areas you would like to have covered
@@Themazcorner you can just tell us how the ride quality of the coilovers are, like if they are stiff or soft for daily driving. It's because I'm interested in coilovers but only for daily driving
Any news? I daily drive my ND, would you suggest the Z CRD or the Ohlins Road & Track?
Nice video! But you don't have to remove the sway bar if you work the whole front and rear axel at the same time. If you loosen both top mounts at the same time the sway bar will follow down when you remove the coilover. On older cars removing the swar bar can be tricky.
As the end link is connected to the control arm removing it gives much more freedom. On one side of the rear I did not disconnect the sway bar it was still possible to press the hub down without much effort as the sway bar is as thick as spaghetti :D
I've changed coilovers on both NB and NC MX-5 and didn't remove the sway bar. Much because they were impossible to remove due to age.
Have a look at my channel if you want to see som driving action.
Thanks so much for posting this. How do you know how much to jack the suspension up when you do the final tightening of the control arm bushings?
thank you and glad that it give some input. Jack it up to the point where more less that side lifts from the jack stand. The other option is to mount the wheels lower the car on to the ground measure the distance from the center of the hubs to the fender and then put the car back on stands and jack upp each corner so the center of the hub to the fender is the same. It is not an exact science doing it in this way. Using wheels cribs or doing it in a shop would be the best way with a four post lift.
very very good job
how much does the pack cost? what length of settings do you have on it and what brand please?
I know that's a lot of questions but for a miata there will never be enough ;-)
I am running Meister R Clubrace (quite stiff setup for a daily driver). These are more intended for the track, I would say the CRD or the GT1, or Öhlins R&T is a better choice for a daily driven car. Cost for the Clubrace are around 1200 EUR
Height is around 33cm from edge of fender o the center of the wheel a little bit to low
@@Themazcorner thx my friend
Great guide 🔥🔥😎
Thank you 🙏
Love the Miata content we have two fo them hope we can support each other channels 😎🥂
Great video! Did you modify height out of the box? If not, how lower comes out the car with Meister out of the box setup? Thank you!
Thank you, glad you liked it. I did not change the ride hide settings. However the rear end is a bit to low I will have to change that (will need re-alignment). It's around 13" much lower than stock though
awesome video, im wondering how did you put the car on all 4 jackstands. Did you use the front subframe and diff brace?
thank you! I did jack the car up enough in the front jacking point order to be able to slide the jacks in the front and rear = one side at a time. But the jacking upp on the subframe would work fine as well. Not tried it on this car though.
Mazman thanks for the reply. Good to know!
Hope it helps, let me know if anything else
Do these work with the factory shock tower brace? Did you have to drill holes in the brace to gain access to the adjustment knobs?
They work but not possible to adjust when the braces are still mounted . Maybe if reaching in behind it is possible but you won't be able to see anything so have to go on feel it possible.
One option is to take a step drill and just make a hole or go aftermarket. I think the same applies for all coilovers and the stock brace
What size cup2's are installed? Seems meaty!
215/45 square :)
@@Themazcorner Thanks! Also a fan of the Konig you have as well. On the fence because I'm not usually a fan of polish lips but gotta say, they look pretty good on the Racing Orange.
Yeah I am not that much into polished stuff. But it looks very race :D and as a bonus it is the lightest version of that wheel :P
Great Vid, love how you added the torque settings in. You didnt show us a rideheight before and after!
thank you :), I know I know. I have to do a follow up video with some driving impressions. The reason for not having it in this video was the fact I ceramic coated my calipers directly after while I had the wheels off.
What originall size for wheels on picture
The rims are 17x7 ET45 and 215/45 Michelin Cup 2 tires
What are the spring rates on your coil-overs?
The Clubrace have 10kg/mm on the fronts and 6kg/mm on the rears
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