Man, thanks a lot! This practical and well informative video has helped me a lot in understanding the how to in engine cleanup of my Jeep project. It's really cool that you took the time to be so thorough in this less than talked about subject!
We did hot tank the block, that does not mean the oil passages are clean or do not have debris in them. By decking the block you change the liner protrusion which requires machining the liner steps. More dollars. Its up to you but I prefer to keep it stock.
@musical7777 In the video I tried to show options that would work for folks that were doing their own work and may not have the same equipment available as a pro. shop. Preparing an engine to be reassembled is a messy job, rust, scale, dirt, carbon, grit, oil, all have to be removed. The object is to use products that will clean the surfaces and then make sure ALL foreign material is removed, even the residual cleaning product.
I love your engine stand! Being able to rotate to all different positions is very useful. Is this a "tractor only" tool our can you set it up for other engines? Your video is very clear and useful. Thanks!
Very clear speaking and visual which makes it a pleasure to learn.. i want to use this on my car engine...is sand paper really usable on car engines ?...
That's exactly right. So then the counterbore would have to be machined an equal amount to what was taken off the deck. If the deck is warped or gouged there is no option it will have to be flattened. Its important to check the deck with a straight edge and feeler gauges.
Nice video. For the amount of effort that it takes to completely clean a block, I'm surprised that it isn't cheaper to simply pour a new casting, or CNC-cut a new block from a billet. No doubt it depends a lot on the hourly rate of the cleaner, and how much you're willing to do yourself.
Point well taken, sand or any sort of abrasives in the finished product is not a good idea. In the interest of making the DVD as non repetitive as possible we did not show a final blow out with compressed air. However, if you take the process as a whole and pay attention to the procedure and the intent, I think we can agree that every effort was taken and multiple warnings given about making sure of a clean block. Thanks for the comment.
This guy is a PRO !!! Fine handcraft made ..I do the same things ,my father had thought me the same methods and the result is super ...soo to all those ignorant commentators ..you have no clue about how to do a proppa job ...better shut up ..
I came across this video by a random you tube algorithm. First off I don't want to criticize your process but it is a little out of date and 12 years ago it was the way things were done. I live in Ca. the chances of finding a caustic tank are pretty slim. The newest process is thermal cleaning with a shot peen blast after. This process eliminates all need for scraping and hand work on the block. I personally chase every hole in the blocks with a tap or thread chaser. If you continue to use the caustic bath this is especially important. After thermal cleaning the taps almost spin like a helicopter. Not chasing threads will cause inaccurate torque on the fasteners. This is crucial on the heads and mains especially. The only problem with the thermal clean is flash rust and that can be taken care of with WD40. always do a final cleaning of the block with a brush kit and degreaser.
@TiredIronVideos Can I send you a picture of a block that I have? I debating on junking the block or getting the local machine shop to clean and hone it??
Really helpful. I don't know if you can help me. I own a 1977 3cyl ford 4100 and a couple months ago I asked a local mechanic to change the head gasket, because the cooling liquid was entering the system and I didn't want it to become a much bigger problem, but now it's much worse, drinking the whole liquid in half an hour. I'm thinking of fixing it my-self but i never done something like that. I am a maintenance mechanic not a vehicle mechanic :/ Do you have some advice? thank you :)
I am having a out of frame rebuild on my detriot 60 series 14L. They found damage to the block where the liners sit. So they had to cut the block. But before they did that, they found damage to the crank. Block needed to come out, crank shaved and then vat the block. Then cut block and rebuild from bare block. They sent me pictures of the block after it supposedly got vatted but the block still has paint and also rust spots. Is there a vat process that doesn’t remove the paint ? Freeze 🥶 plugs are also still in the block after it got dipped in acid supposedly. Is that sound right to you?
Great Video - thank you. I learned something. I don't use sand paper or abrasives to clean precision surfaces though. You run the risk of leaving grit on the engine and you remove a little bit of metal from the surface. Each time the surface is eroded and not as flat as it was.... I scrape and clean with steel wool solvents, etc. I would remove a raised burr with an oil stone or gentle flat file.
I have used sandpaper and it has always been beneficial to me. I tend to go to 400 when doing things made of aluminum and 220 when cleaning cast iron. You are right that it will remove material but it is often not a big deal but just like you I worry about it so I end up grabbing a piece of glass and gluing sandpaper to it since it is an absolute flat surface and lap away. A lot of people don't believe me that this gives a much flatter surface than what was originally there but Jean Bugatti did it with his engines back in the 30's. It created such a flat surface he did not need to use a head gasket. This was done by hand to ensure quality which is why a Bugatti was high end cars back then. I have tested it myself and it really works as long as you stay no higher than 800 grit when lapping. But after doing so it is necessary to spray the block down and let dry. I would only recommend it on parts that are removed from the engine. The block side needs the locating dowels removed before lapping it. It is very possible to lap surfaces so flat that you will not need the gasket like Bugatti did. But yeah always wash the part after sanding is done and follow up on it with a wipe down with either naphtha or mineral spirits.
@@evilcowboy I know this is an old comment, but the head gasket thing is highly dependent on application. I personally wouldn't run without a gasket on anything I'd be likely to build, but even if you wanted to, it'd be important to note that boosted engines see higher absolute cylinder pressures than naturally aspirated engines, and even if the surfaces are mirror flat on installation, the pressures will push the surfaces apart and you'll blow a whole lot of combustion into your water jacket and overheat quickly. Probably grenade your engine. This is why serious boosted race engines generally machine a ring around the combustion chambers and use rings and copper gaskets. Creates a sort of labyrinthine seal that will keep combustion within the chamber up to much higher boost levels. Important when building engines to remember that nothing is perfectly rigid, and rigidity is often a tradeoff for ultimate yield strength. Setting aside that aside, it's not just boosted engines that can suffer from high cylinder pressure issues. High-compression NA race engines can similarly lift heads, and even on an unmodified (other than decking surfaces) engine seeing light street use, heat cycling will warp the surface over time no matter what you do, and your tolerances are zero running without a gasket. This means the only place you can possibly run with no gasket is something that won't be going too far, won't see outrageous boost (or has no need for coolant, like certain drag engines) and will be stripped down and rebuilt frequently. Probably after every run. Technology has changed a lot since the 30s and anything modern other than race engines designed around the idea will disintegrate quickly with no gasket.
Definitely best to do your machining with machines. No matter how careful you are, if the surface you're messing with is meant to hold bearings, you risk issues you don't wanna risk.
In cast iron use caustic soda soak entire engine, warm water better this will remove grease and grime, then pressure clean then use hydrochloric acid diluted in water the amount will depend on how fast you want it cleaned, soak the whole block it will remove rust once grease has been removed, phosphoric acid will treat rust and dissolve it good for final finish, you can also use washing powder soak all metal parts wont harm aluminium, soak in diluted molasses this will remove rust in a few weeks, remember to neutralise the block when finished, follow up acid with high PH like washing powder or the like or reverse high PH then soak briefly in acid, remember chemicals and acids can damage any metal so use correct method and test first, hope this helps,
At the start of the video you have mentioned that the block was immersed in a caustic solution to remove dirt and oil. What caustic material are you talking about here?
Because there is a counterbore. Resurfacing the block would cause the liner projection to be to high and cause all sorts of issues. Would have to cut the block if you resurface it.
Degrease the parts using citric degreaser then use baking power or dry ice blasting and finish by degreasing again and rinsing. Nothing is static we must adapt and change to newer safer and better methods.
Dam Trolls and Negative people out there which is why I stopped making video's. Fault Finder's out there that just Sharp-Shoot people on their verbiage and or on How To advice. You can work on my stuff anytime.
Mike Mike. Agree a tap will remove metal and weaken or ruin the threads, thread chaser are designed with softer metal for the purpose of cleaning the thread gentler wich produces nice clean threads don't forget to blow afterward the thread holes to finish the job.
The other guy said why not just machine the block surface instead of cleaning it up. If the block has wet sleeves, the projection of the liners would be higher due to the reduced deck height.
Outstanding video!!! I'm rebuilding a 262 Buda six on an old A/C D19 tractor. Thanks for the tips. By the way, it's an oil "gallery"; not "galley" - a common misuse. No offense intended; just thought you might want to know.
The product is a solution of phosphoric acid and some chealated Form of buffered iron or magneisium. The phosphoric acid strips the oxygen from the the iron and the chealated iron or magnesium bonds to make the the iron valences balanced so they do not attract and bond with oxygen again. I have seen versions utilizing graphite as well. It works great, but it is electrolytic. It can cause aluminum parts not isolated from the block to corrode. If you have an iron block and iron heads it's fine. If you have one of those mistakes from the late 80's with an iron block and aluminum heads, don't use graphite mixes. I have never had problems using Ospho.
peter ferri The pump creates flow, think of it like when you turn on a water hose. The water flows out freely, you can squeeze the hose easily because there is no pressure. Now if you put a restriction at the end of the hose and turn it on and try to squeeze the hose it's much harder. This is the same in the engine of your car. The oil pump produces a flow of oil that eventually hits restrictions which causes pressure build up because the oil pump is constantly moving the same amount of oil. The pressure regulator protects the pump from too much pressure being built up because the more pressure in the system the harder it is to operate the pump. A good example of this is on a return less fuel system, if the pump continuously runs without the engine running and the fuel injectors not flowing the pump would be damaged quickly from stressed operation. This is why when you first turn on your key the fuel pump runs for a few moments and then turns off (primes the fuel system). Point is a pump creates flow, restrictions cause pressure.
peter ferri also the pressure regulator is usually a ball bearing with a spring behind it. The tension of the spring sets the pressure in a sense. The more stiff the spring the more pressure needed to push the ball bearing back. Once it's pushed back it opens a oil passage to allow flow to reduce pressure in the system.
The pumps that I have worked with have a crescent in between the gears, the inside gear being the drive gear, and the outside gear being the driven gear. One side of the crescent is the suction as the gears rotate they squeeze together forcing the oil out the other side under pressure, as rpms increase so does the output pressure of the pump. A worn pump will also introduce air into the system called cavitation, causing a drop in pressure and volume making slow response to the clutches and converter. The air in the system has no lube or cooling properties, so the transmission will be sluggish and overheat.
+peter ferri What Roy is alluding to is that the volume of oil coming into the gears is the same as the volume coming out of the gears, thus there is no change in pressure *due to the oil pump* - the pressure only develops when the volume is decreased due to restrictions within the engine (or when the temperature is increased). It's a nuance engineers/scientists like to make, but is really of no relevance here ;)
Ask a Cummins dealer how they like 3m pads w/ a die grinder. They might smack you. Scotch brite pads work best. Always plug your holes w/ plastic plugs and you wont have any problems.
Why do people feel the need to correct others spelling & grammar. Not everything is spelled & spoke the same in every country. Hood/bonnet tire/ tyer .
Assuming you used a flat object, 320 grit isnt going to remove enough material to be significant, and sandpaper is one of the few things that will remove enough foreign material to provide a good mating surfaces. _Not_ using *fine* grit sandpaper to clean mating surfaces is, more often than not, the worse practice. You aren't trying to remove metal, and should not use a power sander, light sanding by hand using a flat sanding block is a common and beneficial practice. In fact, using razor blades after removing most of the material will often result if deeper scratches than sandpaper, especially if the blade gets worn and nicked.
Amra 150 Grit really works the best, the fine sand paper takes to long and is a waste of time. the rough surface left helps the gasket seal better. Razor blades are dangerous on cheap Aluminum parts. I use a very sharp scraper for gasket removal, I grew tired of the flying broken pieces of razor blades and wondering just where they ended up if I could not find the broken piece.. A iron engine block will in no way ever be hurt by sanding by hand, In no way will you ever hurt a Diesel block,the iron is just to damn hard.
Truly one of the better Self-Help tutorial video's I've ever seen.
Man, thanks a lot! This practical and well informative video has helped me a lot in understanding the how to in engine cleanup of my Jeep project. It's really cool that you took the time to be so thorough in this less than talked about subject!
Very good video. I wonder what the recommended degreaser to clean the lid of the control valves of which is plastic.
We did hot tank the block, that does not mean the oil passages are clean or do not have debris in them. By decking the block you change the liner protrusion which requires machining the liner steps. More dollars. Its up to you but I prefer to keep it stock.
@musical7777 In the video I tried to show options that would work for folks that were doing their own work and may not have the same equipment available as a pro. shop. Preparing an engine to be reassembled is a messy job, rust, scale, dirt, carbon, grit, oil, all have to be removed. The object is to use products that will clean the surfaces and then make sure ALL foreign material is removed, even the residual cleaning product.
Great old school advice.Thanks
I love your engine stand! Being able to rotate to all different positions is very useful. Is this a "tractor only" tool our can you set it up for other engines? Your video is very clear and useful. Thanks!
Thank you! This really helps to save money.
Very clear speaking and visual which makes it a pleasure to learn..
i want to use this on my car engine...is sand paper really usable on car engines ?...
This is great. Thank you so much for sharing!
@79jlb It is a John Deere 254 Diesel out of a JD 3010 row crop.
Very very detailed... Almost too detailed, but that's never a bad thing. Thanks for the video.
Thoughts on electrolysis for rust removal on a block, will it weaken the block?
Well done....thank you !
That's exactly right. So then the counterbore would have to be machined an equal amount to what was taken off the deck. If the deck is warped or gouged there is no option it will have to be flattened. Its important to check the deck with a straight edge and feeler gauges.
The shop I brought my motor to used a wire wheel on my main journals. Is this a problem?
Nice video! Thanks for posting
Nice video. For the amount of effort that it takes to completely clean a block, I'm surprised that it isn't cheaper to simply pour a new casting, or CNC-cut a new block from a billet. No doubt it depends a lot on the hourly rate of the cleaner, and how much you're willing to do yourself.
Using sand paper on a gasket seating surface??? But I do love that rust converter. Pretty cool chemistry.
Point well taken, sand or any sort of abrasives in the finished product is not a good idea. In the interest of making the DVD as non repetitive as possible we did not show a final blow out with compressed air. However, if you take the process as a whole and pay attention to the procedure and the intent, I think we can agree that every effort was taken and multiple warnings given about making sure of a clean block.
Thanks for the comment.
This guy is a PRO !!! Fine handcraft made ..I do the same things ,my father had thought me the same methods and the result is super ...soo to all those ignorant commentators ..you have no clue about how to do a proppa job ...better shut up ..
I came across this video by a random you tube algorithm. First off I don't want to criticize your process but it is a little out of date and 12 years ago it was the way things were done. I live in Ca. the chances of finding a caustic tank are pretty slim. The newest process is thermal cleaning with a shot peen blast after. This process eliminates all need for scraping and hand work on the block. I personally chase every hole in the blocks with a tap or thread chaser. If you continue to use the caustic bath this is especially important. After thermal cleaning the taps almost spin like a helicopter. Not chasing threads will cause inaccurate torque on the fasteners. This is crucial on the heads and mains especially. The only problem with the thermal clean is flash rust and that can be taken care of with WD40. always do a final cleaning of the block with a brush kit and degreaser.
@TiredIronVideos Can I send you a picture of a block that I have? I debating on junking the block or getting the local machine shop to clean and hone it??
Yes
That will work to remove the old paint and surface rustbut you will still want to neutralize the rust.
Really helpful.
I don't know if you can help me. I own a 1977 3cyl ford 4100 and a couple months ago I asked a local mechanic to change the head gasket, because the cooling liquid was entering the system and I didn't want it to become a much bigger problem, but now it's much worse, drinking the whole liquid in half an hour. I'm thinking of fixing it my-self but i never done something like that. I am a maintenance mechanic not a vehicle mechanic :/
Do you have some advice? thank you :)
Great video - thanks
I am having a out of frame rebuild on my detriot 60 series 14L.
They found damage to the block where the liners sit.
So they had to cut the block.
But before they did that, they found damage to the crank. Block needed to come out, crank shaved and then vat the block.
Then cut block and rebuild from bare block.
They sent me pictures of the block after it supposedly got vatted but the block still has paint and also rust spots.
Is there a vat process that doesn’t remove the paint ? Freeze 🥶 plugs are also still in the block after it got dipped in acid supposedly. Is that sound right to you?
Thanks!
Hi, May I ask that do you clean machine by wiping paper ?
You can always get your blocked resurfaced and cleaned properly at the machine shop. Sometimes you just got leave it to the pros.
Just to clarify, you mean cutting out more of the counterbore for the sleeve to fit?
will it be fine if i just use a wire brush to clean the outside ?
Great Video - thank you. I learned something.
I don't use sand paper or abrasives to clean precision surfaces though. You run the risk of leaving grit on the engine and you remove a little bit of metal from the surface. Each time the surface is eroded and not as flat as it was....
I scrape and clean with steel wool solvents, etc.
I would remove a raised burr with an oil stone or gentle flat file.
I have used sandpaper and it has always been beneficial to me. I tend to go to 400 when doing things made of aluminum and 220 when cleaning cast iron.
You are right that it will remove material but it is often not a big deal but just like you I worry about it so I end up grabbing a piece of glass and gluing sandpaper to it since it is an absolute flat surface and lap away. A lot of people don't believe me that this gives a much flatter surface than what was originally there but Jean Bugatti did it with his engines back in the 30's. It created such a flat surface he did not need to use a head gasket. This was done by hand to ensure quality which is why a Bugatti was high end cars back then.
I have tested it myself and it really works as long as you stay no higher than 800 grit when lapping. But after doing so it is necessary to spray the block down and let dry. I would only recommend it on parts that are removed from the engine. The block side needs the locating dowels removed before lapping it.
It is very possible to lap surfaces so flat that you will not need the gasket like Bugatti did.
But yeah always wash the part after sanding is done and follow up on it with a wipe down with either naphtha or mineral spirits.
@@evilcowboy I know this is an old comment, but the head gasket thing is highly dependent on application. I personally wouldn't run without a gasket on anything I'd be likely to build, but even if you wanted to, it'd be important to note that boosted engines see higher absolute cylinder pressures than naturally aspirated engines, and even if the surfaces are mirror flat on installation, the pressures will push the surfaces apart and you'll blow a whole lot of combustion into your water jacket and overheat quickly. Probably grenade your engine.
This is why serious boosted race engines generally machine a ring around the combustion chambers and use rings and copper gaskets. Creates a sort of labyrinthine seal that will keep combustion within the chamber up to much higher boost levels.
Important when building engines to remember that nothing is perfectly rigid, and rigidity is often a tradeoff for ultimate yield strength.
Setting aside that aside, it's not just boosted engines that can suffer from high cylinder pressure issues. High-compression NA race engines can similarly lift heads, and even on an unmodified (other than decking surfaces) engine seeing light street use, heat cycling will warp the surface over time no matter what you do, and your tolerances are zero running without a gasket. This means the only place you can possibly run with no gasket is something that won't be going too far, won't see outrageous boost (or has no need for coolant, like certain drag engines) and will be stripped down and rebuilt frequently. Probably after every run.
Technology has changed a lot since the 30s and anything modern other than race engines designed around the idea will disintegrate quickly with no gasket.
Definitely best to do your machining with machines. No matter how careful you are, if the surface you're messing with is meant to hold bearings, you risk issues you don't wanna risk.
In cast iron use caustic soda soak entire engine, warm water better this will remove grease and grime, then pressure clean then use hydrochloric acid diluted in water the amount will depend on how fast you want it cleaned, soak the whole block it will remove rust once grease has been removed, phosphoric acid will treat rust and dissolve it good for final finish, you can also use washing powder soak all metal parts wont harm aluminium, soak in diluted molasses this will remove rust in a few weeks, remember to neutralise the block when finished, follow up acid with high PH like washing powder or the like or reverse high PH then soak briefly in acid, remember chemicals and acids can damage any metal so use correct method and test first, hope this helps,
At the start of the video you have mentioned that the block was immersed in a caustic solution to remove dirt and oil. What caustic material are you talking about here?
Because there is a counterbore. Resurfacing the block would cause the liner projection to be to high and cause all sorts of issues. Would have to cut the block if you resurface it.
What's the name of the chemical you use to get rid of the rust????
The garet sir thank you very much
I wonder why the block wasn't decked on the head gasket sealing surface. That's the practice I've always thought was SOP for years.
Awesome
Hi great video and share ..noel.
Thank you! :)
Degrease the parts using citric degreaser then use baking power or dry ice blasting and finish by degreasing again and rinsing. Nothing is static we must adapt and change to newer safer and better methods.
Rust Destroyer sold by The Shop. Google The Shop Products for their website.
what kind of block is that :O huge
is that a truck motor?
cant you you penetrating oil to clean it up the rust
Dam Trolls and Negative people out there which is why I stopped making video's. Fault Finder's out there that just Sharp-Shoot people on their verbiage and or on How To advice. You can work on my stuff anytime.
you want to run a thread chaser NOT a Tap, tap will remove metal.
Mike Mike. Agree a tap will remove metal and weaken or ruin the threads, thread chaser are designed with softer metal for the purpose of cleaning the thread gentler wich produces nice clean threads don't forget to blow afterward the thread holes to finish the job.
The stand is military surplus. I have no idea who made it. It is the only one Iv'e seen like it.
Vero good💯
The other guy said why not just machine the block surface instead of cleaning it up. If the block has wet sleeves, the projection of the liners would be higher due to the reduced deck height.
Rust Destroyer by The Shop Products
:) just subbed
is it ok to use a power washer?
Just blow the water out with compressed air afterwards. Don't leave anything water wet in there and exposed to air for too long.
Austin K yes!!!.
why not use a dry ice blaster,??/ I think that will take care of all issues in one shot
Outstanding video!!! I'm rebuilding a 262 Buda six on an old A/C D19 tractor. Thanks for the tips. By the way, it's an oil "gallery"; not "galley" - a common misuse. No offense intended; just thought you might want to know.
Oil galley is the correct term. He was referring to a singular oil passage.
Gallery? It's galley, lol!
The product is a solution of phosphoric acid and some chealated Form of buffered iron or magneisium. The phosphoric acid strips the oxygen from the the iron and the chealated iron or magnesium bonds to make the the iron valences balanced so they do not attract and bond with oxygen again. I have seen versions utilizing graphite as well. It works great, but it is electrolytic. It can cause aluminum parts not isolated from the block to corrode. If you have an iron block and iron heads it's fine. If you have one of those mistakes from the late 80's with an iron block and aluminum heads, don't use graphite mixes. I have never had problems using Ospho.
whats the cost of restoring a 2.0L engine?
de Niro's brother ?
Uneven surface with that sanding block
um nope.. light finish is perfect to reveal dings / etc.. Many top engine builders do it that way.
is that a diesel block?
Possibly since its using liners... Maybe a cummins 4bt
why not just resurface the block? looks brand new afterwards
abrasive disc or cookies, bad idea might as well throw a handful of sand back into your clean block. good video though great detail
No, Its out of a 3010 John Deere Row Crop
Is this a aluminum block????
no it's clearly cast iron
dark chocolate aluminum with rust makes sense eh?
A oil pump does not produce pressure, it produces a flow. Restrictions in the oil gallery to different parts produce the pressure.
+Roy Leblanc Why does the pump have an oil pressure regulator if it makes no pressure?
peter ferri The pump creates flow, think of it like when you turn on a water hose. The water flows out freely, you can squeeze the hose easily because there is no pressure. Now if you put a restriction at the end of the hose and turn it on and try to squeeze the hose it's much harder. This is the same in the engine of your car. The oil pump produces a flow of oil that eventually hits restrictions which causes pressure build up because the oil pump is constantly moving the same amount of oil. The pressure regulator protects the pump from too much pressure being built up because the more pressure in the system the harder it is to operate the pump. A good example of this is on a return less fuel system, if the pump continuously runs without the engine running and the fuel injectors not flowing the pump would be damaged quickly from stressed operation. This is why when you first turn on your key the fuel pump runs for a few moments and then turns off (primes the fuel system). Point is a pump creates flow, restrictions cause pressure.
peter ferri also the pressure regulator is usually a ball bearing with a spring behind it. The tension of the spring sets the pressure in a sense. The more stiff the spring the more pressure needed to push the ball bearing back. Once it's pushed back it opens a oil passage to allow flow to reduce pressure in the system.
The pumps that I have worked with have a crescent in between the gears, the inside gear being the drive gear, and the outside gear being the driven gear. One side of the crescent is the suction as the gears rotate they squeeze together forcing the oil out the other side under pressure, as rpms increase so does the output pressure of the pump. A worn pump will also introduce air into the system called cavitation, causing a drop in pressure and volume making slow response to the clutches and converter. The air in the system has no lube or cooling properties, so the transmission will be sluggish and overheat.
+peter ferri What Roy is alluding to is that the volume of oil coming into the gears is the same as the volume coming out of the gears, thus there is no change in pressure *due to the oil pump* - the pressure only develops when the volume is decreased due to restrictions within the engine (or when the temperature is increased). It's a nuance engineers/scientists like to make, but is really of no relevance here ;)
Ask a Cummins dealer how they like 3m pads w/ a die grinder. They might smack you. Scotch brite pads work best. Always plug your holes w/ plastic plugs and you wont have any problems.
That's... the biggest 4 cylinder I've ever seen... wtf?
diesel block
This is a good vide for a tite ass rebuild get the block sand blasted $30 deck the block $100 then hot tank $80 thats just me
get yourself a pressure washer, the 1400- 1750 psi type. do you really rebuild engines? surface all blocks, it ends a lot of head gasket probems.
Caustic Soda
No the oil won't kill the rust but the Rust Destroyer will.
Why do people feel the need to correct others spelling & grammar. Not everything is spelled & spoke the same in every country. Hood/bonnet tire/ tyer .
ℹ
This engine clean is terrible compared to what we use to have...
I would not pay for that engine cleaning work.
caustic soda
suferic acid kills rust
I would never Sand a block surface! that's just bad practice
Sanding just to clean the surface is fine. I use give or take 150 grit or sometimes what ever it there. but only by hand.
Assuming you used a flat object, 320 grit isnt going to remove enough material to be significant, and sandpaper is one of the few things that will remove enough foreign material to provide a good mating surfaces. _Not_ using *fine* grit sandpaper to clean mating surfaces is, more often than not, the worse practice.
You aren't trying to remove metal, and should not use a power sander, light sanding by hand using a flat sanding block is a common and beneficial practice. In fact, using razor blades after removing most of the material will often result if deeper scratches than sandpaper, especially if the blade gets worn and nicked.
Amra 150 Grit really works the best, the fine sand paper takes to long and is a waste of time. the rough surface left helps the gasket seal better. Razor blades are dangerous on cheap Aluminum parts. I use a very sharp scraper for gasket removal, I grew tired of the flying broken pieces of razor blades and wondering just where they ended up if I could not find the broken piece.. A iron engine block will in no way ever be hurt by sanding by hand, In no way will you ever hurt a Diesel block,the iron is just to damn hard.
.
bi bok anlamadım ba
Hi great video and share ..noel.