Run with choke or it dies
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2019
- Tractor only runs with choke or my tractor runs good at idle but I cant give it any throttle
This was just a quick video so I apologize for the quality, especially the audio . Hope this helps. I will try to make a much better quality cut in a few days with a little more detail and with a good microphone.
I've been getting a lot of messages and phone calls about this scenario lately and figured I would make a quick clip for you all. - Авто та транспорт
![[4 Quick DIY Fixes] Generator only Runs on Choke / Half-choke!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fgxgdKl7Mw0/mqdefault.jpg)
![[4 Quick DIY Fixes] Generator only Runs on Choke / Half-choke!](/img/tr.png)
Thanks alot, That fixed my 1949 8n. Appreciate you take the time to making/posting video.
Thakns for this video it save me a day of production
That is great, I'm having that exact issue and will try this in the morning!
God bless you! I have my dad's '56 640 and it was doing exactly what you describe here. I thought I was going to have to pull the carburator and clean it. Then I found this video while I was looking for something to e plain how to get the throttle and choke linkage off. I did the adjustment and the tractor runs! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Thanks so much for the info, been having that problem with my 53 . I'll give it a try.
These guys are the best!
Thanks so much!!
Followed your advice especially the part where you must run it awhile after you open the valve on carb
Glad to help
Ferguson TO 20 having the very issues you described in the video. Went outside today with about 35 degrees outside temp., made the adjustment and it took care of my problem instantly. Carb was rebuilt about two years ago and have had this issue ever since. We received a decent snowstorm over the weekend and I was tired of working the choke while plowing snow. Thanks for the suggestions!
Great news. Thanks for letting everyone know it worked for you
great video!!!! we have a ford jubilee. been fighting this for years I would have to hold the choke out just to make it run. I did what you said about backing the screw out and it immediately ran perfect!!!!thanks a lot this tractor has never ran better, it was my grandfathers,
Awesome..
I don’t quite get what I did. Turned something on the carburetor. But by golly it worked like a freakin charm. If you were close enough I’d buy you a stinking 6 pack. I got a MASSEY-FERGUSON at a garage sale. Dirt cheap. Flat tire $125 bucks later and this pain in the ass. Now she’s running like a top. I hope it lasts cause I got a lot to learn. So thank you very much. Subscribed and notifications on. Thumbs up my friend
Thank you for this video! I have a 48 8N that has been dieing about 10-15 minutes once we run it with an implement on it. Going home to try this.
Let us know how it works out!
These guys are awesome! GOD Bless you all!
thanks bud. you just saved me hours of reinventing the wheel. all set.
No problem 👍
Thanks for the info, this is the problem my neighbor has and I have been trying to help but adjustment not working but he had a new cheap in line filter put on which I thought was restrictions on the flow
I Been working on my ford860 tried everything watched your video turned the main jet 2 1/2 turns runs perfectly thank you
That's awesome! Glad you found that video and glad it helped you out! It's amazing how some of these videos help so many people
Dude you saved my butt!!! Your awesome
Great video Long time no see....
Well done! I inherited a 68 Ford 3000 and 10 acres. Somehow, I have to keep it running in its golden years and I'm not a mechanic. Videos like yours are a life saver. I might actually be able to pull this off. If you want suggestions for videos I can keep you busy! Here's a list...How do you know when you've got a blown head gasket? How do you know when you've got a bent valve? When should you rebuild a carburetor? You said in this video three things could be causing it...what are the other two? How do you get hydraulics working right? How do you convert from 6V to 12Volt? How do you switch to electronic ignition? Help the world keep these old tractors going and you could become a tractor celebrity!..lol
HAHA Definitely not expecting the "celebrity" status! Thanks for the awesome remarks! We do have quite a few episodes in progress that will answer a lot of those questions you asked. They were scheduled to be done a long time ago, unfortunately things have been happening to delay us one after the other. With all the ridiculous things that have happened, the joke around here has been that we should just turn this into a reality show! LOL Six months of on and off phone service and internet problems, hurricanes, rain for 40 days and nights and on and on...
Thank you
Thanks for sharing, I just bought a 8N and it's only running on the choke. When it arrives I will definitely start there.
Sounds great! Be sure to take a minute and post back so others can know the outcome!
@@AtlastaFarM hey, well I took the carburetor apart, after I tried your tip. Someone had it apart and broke the venture, and the spring is missing off the float. They were running it with no filter in the fuel system anywhere..carb was full of, dirt, water, and rust. It's a true testament how dependable these little tractors are that it ran at all. I am purchasing a new carburetor..
HAHA.. Might be surprised how often we deal with that.
@@AtlastaFarM put the new carb on with a in-line fuel filter, I have a new sediment bowl ordered also but couldn't wait to try the carb. Fired right up and runs good.
I had the same issue with my 641 and I couldn’t seem to get it running right. I ended up with gas leaking out where the air intake hose attaches. I think I may have gone to far but, the tractor was still running rough so I kept turning a 1/4 turn at a time.
My 1941 Ford ,9N is doing this. I will have to try this. Thanks!😂
Did it work?
@@AtlastaFarM I will get back with you as soon as I get the new spark plugs. Should be in any day. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for your help!
My 49 Ferguson will only run with the choke on, I will try the one and one half counter clockwise but is that from where it is or close it down and start again at one and one half thank you for this great video
Well, after I tried loosening the gas cap, put in a new fuel filter, a new fuel pump and a new carburettor, I checked the fuel hoses and they were clear. So I checked 12 volts to the solenoid. It was there and steady - no bad connection. I was out of ideas and then thought of one more. Can I blow air into the gas tank? Nope, it was clogged tight. I used compressed air to blow it clear and now it finally runs like new.
anything over 3/4 throttle it run runs up and down but doesn't shut off, pull choke out 1/4 to 1/2" it runs smooth, I turned the little by little till it got loose , put carb and gas line on ( Ford 9n 1940 model)
How to adjust my carb on my 1958 861 Ford power master.
Peacocks!
Hey man I have one I'm having an issue with can I contact you and see if you have any tips ? It's. 1986 case 1835b gas 2.3 liter. Same issue as this video
strange..were in america do screws vibrate tight ?
1963 ford 2000. seen your video after i rebuilt the carb..so far runs great .starts up good at 1 1/2 turns from seated position.. i can drive around all day long. BUT when i put under load with say bush hog it will bog down and die in grass. ..i came back to your video cause im wondering how far past 1 1/2 turns from seated i can go or should not go? are you you saying turn 1 1/2 turns more in addittion to the initial rebuild setting? so 3 turns from seated..things i have done since i got the tractor (new coil,pugs,plug wires,new fuel line,new fuel shut off valve at bottom of tank,tank is super clean,points and condenser)
1 and 1/2 turns is the initial setting. If you need to adjust beyond that I would recommend one half turn then test. It really depends on how long your screw is to how far you can turn it out I would say if you go more than three full turns past the initial 1.5 setting then there may be another underlying issue.
@@AtlastaFarM gotcha. Yea i was just using that as an example. But I've been leary to go even to 2 full turns out. But I'm thinking it's definitely needing more fuel since everything else seems to work good under regular use. Thanks
What is the smaller adjustment screw for and where should it be set?
The smaller screw is the "fine adjustment" or Mixture screw. There is no definite set point for all machines as some wear and tear on the carb and engine makes a difference in the final adjustment... but a start point is 1+1/2 turns out
When you say to turn it out 1 1/2 turns or 2 1/2 turns-are you talking about from wherever it is? Or AFTER closing it all the way clockwise? I'm ready to put my IH 350U carb together and back on the tractor.....Thanks.
correct. turn the screw until it is seated.. (do not tighten it!!, just until it stops / bottoms out) that is the starting point
If the sediment bowl doesn't fill with gas without trying to start the tractor (Ford 841 Powermaster), does that indicate a clog in the fuel line or tank? I just changed the fuel line and the sediment bowl, but I didn't change the fuel shut off valve. Thanks
From the way you worded the question, I am guessing it DOES fill while Starting the engine? If this is the case then most likely the bowl is too tight. These things are fickle.. it seems putting them too tight not only risks cracking the bowl.. but can also flex or warp the valve body just enough to prevent flow.
We have fought this for years.. we loosen the bowl to get flow, but then it leaks... so we gradually tighten it to stop the leak, but then we're back to what you described.. no flow.
So what we have found to be the culprit, is the seal. The rubber/viton seals are horrid.. going back to a proper cork or cork/rubber mix seal works outstanding. It does not need to be tight to properly seal, not warping the valve, allowing flow without leaks. You can make your own. sheets of cork material are sold at any auto-parts store. (and its fairly cheap)
*** If you go this route, make sure you get thick enough material! Measurements are all over the map, so the easiest example I could give would be material that is near or just over he thickness of two credit cards/id etc. It does not have to be exact! But too thin will not compress enough and too thick may not fit. (about 3mm or 1/8")
M&MS CLASSIC TRACTOR 8
We have a ford 301 powermaster it idles perfect and as soon as you try and give it some throttle it starts to choke out and the choke somewhat helps it stay going. Do you know if its just dirty carb or what could be the issue
Sounds like restricted fuel flow
Why does my ford 800 start, but run rough at first. I need to give it a ton of choke to keep it going. Then, it sits there backfiring regularly until it warms up in cold weather. Literally sounds like a shotgun going off. Then, it runs great when warmed up. Any thoughts as to what the issue may be?
A few things can cause this. First would be Spark plugs, and possibly even coil (not very common but can happen) Try 216 Autolite plug with .020 gap. Also make sure your point gap is between .020-.025.
I have a 24T2 Zenith on a52 tea 20 same thing but gets worse as she warms up,starts runs then dies out, choke works for a while,then quit, wait a minute then starts again only to quit again
When this happens... try immediately removing the fuel tank cap.. pay attention to any sounds like pressure relieving or suction sounds like opening a soft drink.. Even if you dont hear any of these noises.. try to restart with the cap removed . Also pay attention to the fuel level in the sediment bowl assembly. It is very possible that the nut is too tight.. especially on newer replacement bowls. People will over tighten them to stop a slow drip at the bowl.. and that will actually deform the assembly where it will not flow at full volume. If the second issue is the problem ,, the fix is to replace the gasket in the bowl assembly with a CORK version!! Either make your own from cork sheets or can be ordered pre-made through amazon etc..
I'm thinking the carb needs to be pulled apart and cleaned and mabye even rebuilt as well as new seals for everything even the glass bowl
If making the adjustment described in this video did not help.. then I would expect there is a restriction somewhere.
Try taking the fuel line loose from the carb and opening the valve. Have a catch can ready for the gas. It should flow like a drunk on dollar draft night.... if it dribbles like an old man then start here.....
I would start with the sediment bowl (expecially inside the tank) take a light and look through the filler hole . you should be able to see the tube from the sediment bowl sticking up.. most likely you have something floating around it blocking the flow. Next would be the screen in the sediment bowl itself and the valve. just keep moving down from there. I have seen people add those cheap lawnmower filters in the line, and even brand new ones have been too restrictive. Worst case is a clog in the fuel line, a kink, or the float in the carb is set too low
Also if you have access to an air compressor.... I have used an airgun an blown back through the line (carb end) then checked the flow. Be sure to remove the fuel filler cap for this... or it will pressurize the tank. This helps to diagnose if there is a restriction up top
@@AtlastaFarM ok I did check fuel flow as I didn't know what it should look like it was coming out in a slow stream so I'm gonna replace the fuel filter and see how that does and im gonna say screw it and use gasket maker for the glass bowl as for us and we do have a commercial air compressor but at the main shop on the farm where the tractors not at I may be able to throw the gas air compressor in my truck and bring it but I will try the fuel filter first
I have a TO20 I believe bc the engine plate is gone . My problem is under load like using a shredder it just doesn't have enough power. I clean the carb, check the fuel lines and the distributor, wires n plugs are newish. Just can't figure it out. I've also messed with main jet like the vid. Any advise.
ok so to figure out which model by engine.... look on the left side (left as sitting in seat). Near the bottom of the engine block where it meats the oil pan... you will see some large raised letters and numbers cast into the block. They will start with the letter "Z". If it says Z120 then TO20... if says Z129 then TO30. Whichever model it is wont matter for your issue though. Sounds like a base timing issue. Adjusted through the distributor. Two ways the distributor is locked into position.. Most common is a band using a slotted screw. loosen this screw only enough to where you can turn the distributor by hand.... next with the engine running at about half throttle.. gradually turn the distributor until the engine seems to speed up and start to sputter. When you hit that point turn the distributor back the opposite way until it just stops sputtering and tighten the slotted screw down. This will be setting you timing at max advance for your power band and is the best setting for mid to high RPM requirements especially for PTO work. There is a method for more low end or low rpm power for more stationary equipment like saws etc. This would be the first setting to make. If it does not work, let us know and we will move to the next item
@@AtlastaFarM Wow all this time i thought i had a To20 but the engine says z129 lol just replaced my carb and it idles way to fast with it idk how to adjust carb
@@hectorgarza228 If idle is the only issue then turn screw located on throttle lever. Counter clockwise for slower. (screw is ON the lever NOT the two in the body of the carb!) The screw may be a slotted screw, but sometimes it could be a wingnut... either way, counter clockwise to slow idle
@@AtlastaFarM thanks for the reply but i just realized i think its the governor i disconnected the rod and the idle came right down after having messed with all the other adjustment screws on carb 😕 its my first tractor now i have to adjust governor and carb screws lol
I have a golden jubilee that dies after running for 5-8 min, it starts right up, ive checked fuel issues, carb adjustments, gas cap.. It consistantly shuts off around the same time every time wether its little throttle or full throttle, try to restart it just after it dies but it acts like the battery is dead, leave it sit for 15 min and starts right up with no problem.. I ordered a new coil.. Any suggestions ?
Think your on the right track however try this before going further!! .... Start the tractor and let it idle... while running, disconnect the battery by removing a cable(doesnt matter which one) If the tractor shuts off then do this next.... Same as before but running at about half throttle, then disconnect battery. If it shuts down then you have charging issue. Either Alt/Gen (most likely regulator). Whats happening is your ignition is draining the battery. Once is too weak to make coil spark, the tractor shuts down.. but the battery is still good enough to recover on its own.
Also make sure your polarity is right!! 6volt (+ goes to chassis ground) 12v (- to ground) and at ignition coil, 6v(+side to distributor) 12 (-side to distributor)
Oh ok, well the battery problem may be the issue then because its a very week battery that was in this tractor for many years, i rescued this tractor, it sat nearly 40+ yrs without being run or just started and i got it running but the tractor will crank a very short time before its dead and i have to charge the battery, so could it just be a dead battery ? it doesnt take much to get started but if i do have trouble the battery is dead in just 20-30 seconds of constant cranking.
It was an old battery to begin with but good enough to start the tractor
Is this issue what is considered to be an vapor lock?
No... Vapor lock is the "Boiling" of the fuel in the line or carburetor bowl.. think old school science class.. like a pressure cooker... as the temperature of the liquid rises-- so does the pressure.. eventually the pressure will be high enough to prevent the liquid from flowing as it should. Older carbureted cars would have this issue in summer days in hot climates sitting at long stoplights or idle long periods.. and would start to run rough or skip etc... would have to turn them off for a while to cool down then they would run correctly again.
@MMSAGRIBUSINESS thanks so much for responding! I posted this video in need of help and a couple ppl suggested my issue is vapor lock. Would you agree? ua-cam.com/users/shortslzDO5aAWQ34?si=4DQh8ktpq8Fn9jPc
This actually sounds ignition related!! Of course Im not there, so I am going by what I see and hear.. Almost like an ignition coil getting hot and failing.,.. Does this tractor have the big square coil on the front of the engine? or is the distributor on the side of the engine. Also.. will it restart and run after a few minutes or maybe an hour..?? ( run until it huckups again?) and just for giggles... try running without the fuel cap on... just to make sure its not creating a vacuum in the tank .
So you mentioned that there are 3 possibilities but only talk about one? What are the other 2 please cause I have tried this and no help. Run it half choke and it's like brand new. Open choke, starts falling on its face and puking out
Sorry for the delay, your comment / question was missed. The other issues are: warped mating surfaces in the carburetor itself (or air leaks in the intake) and a restriction in fuel flow (most commonly at the sediment bowl)
See our video here for the warped carb : ua-cam.com/video/5BowYRFnDcU/v-deo.html