FLEX DA Polisher XFE 15 150 Review: Cordless Orbital Polisher
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- This video is a review & Demonstration of the Flex XFE 15 150 18.0-EC/5.0 Set, it is a battery-powered orbital polisher. I will go into detail on how it performs.
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Let me get this straight: You comment something that is unrelated to the fact that I have two DANGEROUSLY DASHING girlfriends? Considering that I am the unprettiest UA-camr ever, having two hot girlfriends is really incredible. Yet you did not mention that at all. I am quite disappointed, dear gu
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm😍 💯 😓 😀 😂 😉 😍control.*
I've found that on paint of all levels of hardness, my best results with a DA come from the following. The issue with a da is the same with a rotary in that if you don't control what's coming off of the paint, you'll be chasing your tail to get rid of defects that you actually put there yourself on sections you've already done. The exception is that with a rotary, it tends to throw residue off of the pad while you're working. The force of the constant and consistent spin flings it right off of the pad and the working surface. Whereas the action of a da will keep more of that residue stuck in the pad. What I'm doing here is diligently controlling residue in the most aggressive way possible.
Cutting
*heavy cutting pad (typically microfiber but foam will work) primed heavy with your choice of compound. Blow the excess off with compressed air then apply 3 thumb nail sized drops.
*small section passes, only 8 times the size of the pad
*slow arm speed, medium hand pressure, machine speed 4000-5000 opm
*blow the pad out with compressed air before every new section
*every 4 sections, load the pad with water and turn the machine on to push out excess compound and cut residue (preferably inside of a bucket)
Finishing
*light/medium polishing pad depending on the paint and results from the compounding stage
*same priming procedure and amount of liquid
*You can double the section sizing
*medium arm speed, light hand pressure, machine speed 2500-3500 opm
*Continue to blow the pad out after every section
*Continue to clean the pad with water every 4 sections
The large amount of liquid is trapping the cut residue, keeping it suspended so that it doesn't touch the surface and continue to mar the paint. Blowing the pad out gets rid of the cut off and other contaminants. You're left with the cleanest possible contact you can get between the pad and the paint.
I know this is a long comment but hopefully this helps some people.
I love my lhr21es mark2 for cutting and finishing. I made 3 marks with a permanent marker on the backing plate on all my machines to help see when the pad stalls. It really helps a lot when polishing with a DA. I also can recommend Flex PXE-80, but only with 12mm adapters. This machine rocks everything between 1-3 inch backingplate size.
Your channel is realy amazing!!! I have used a lot of your tips always successfuly at my projects!
Only solutions I would try personally is a combination of 3 factors when doing your final pass along the paint:
•Reducing the speed on the machine. This reduces the output force upon the pad to reduce the strain on the paint (cuts more delicately).
•Reducing the travel speed of the machine itself. This allows the micro-abrasives in the compound to break down into an even smaller composition. Reduction of size of these abrasives allows for an even finer polish, resulting in higher clarity.
•Reduce the amount of downward force you apply on the machine. This would prevent it from stalling and therefore allow the micro-abrasives to break down into a finer composition. It also reduces the strain on the paint.
To really nail that combo, you’ll have to work your way around not trying to stall the machine through adjusting your angling and applied pressure, but it can be done.
Honestly this is really similar to brushing your teeth. After the major cutting has been done with a strong scrub, what would you do for a nice shine? Would you go in with some brand new unbroken down course toothpaste, traveling super quickly and applying a hell of pressure. Or would you want to go brush them very lightly, making sure the toothpaste has broken down finely? This applies to all micro-abrasives (toothpaste polish etc)
The reason the rotary doesn’t have issues is because it continues traveling due to the forced rotation, so the polish is allowed to break down into a finer composition.
You could also try spritzing some spray wax on the pad to help dilute the polish and break down the abrasives.
Congratulations on 200k subscribers gunny
When I used to detail 20 years ago we never used an orbital, and we only used wool, don't ask me why but it worked well
It's cause people who burn through . $29 China freight variable 7" im good i use the expensive Maguire line pads but finish with sheep hairs lol
Same here 20 years ago. Going back into it and have adopted the new technology, but never forget the rotary roots.
@@johnwalters878 the old rotary polishers back then were pretty much variable grinders, shoulders would be falling off you after a big polish 😂
Using wool for a final polish still gives the best results to this day, using the right product like 3m glaze.
Unfortunately most of the dry use compounds and polishes nowadays are designed for foam pads and don't work to well with wool !!
Hi mate, i use this Flex polisher, corded one. I work in marine industry and i agree with most of what you said, i need to do lot of rotary polishing before using DA to finish it off. To get the perfect result i use different pad for each compound, wiping off all residue after each step.
Regarding black paint, there is new Mirka Polarshine 12 Black compound that is supposed to deliver perfect gloss on dark surfaces, it comes with dedicated pads. I cannot find it yet but maybe if your dealer could hook you up, it would make a cool topic for review.
Cheers!
Great insight!
On the occasions that I come across easily marred or hazed paints when da polishing, I'll grab Menzerna. 2500 medium cut is usually all I need. I really prefer a closed cell, European foam pad like Lake Country Hydrotech or Buff and Shine Uro-Cell in the orange polishing variety.
If I want even more extreme gloss, I'll grab the Menzerna SF4000 (3500 now) on the same type of pad. This was only necessary on a 1995 Porsche I did at work last year. I'll never forget how sensitive that paint was.
These days I've been using more 3D and Optimum polishes. Optimum Hyper Polish on their black or blue waffle pads, and 3D AAT502 on yellow Rupes or Buff and Shine Uro-Tec work great with that one.
But my favorite tool is the old Porter Cable 7424. I had used rotary exclusively from 1998 until 2011. I have a fleet of Rupes polishers, and a Flex 3401, but the PC is my hands down favorite.
I just went to the Rupes 21 orbital with there compounds. Was very impressed with it. Saves time & finish was way better. Used the blue coarse pads followed by the yellow.
Thank you for your honist review great video
I never liked the DA polishers. I’ve found on black the best thing to do is in the final step use the 3M step 3 with a blue pad.
That's exactly what I'm going to do.
I also use step 3 from 3M which is glaze to hide swirl marks.Car craft auto detailing channel said pretty much same about that Flex machine.They call it a "finisher".I use Flex rotary and its brilliant machine.Only thing that annoys me that sticky red cord.I always used rotary cause thats all what we had back then in the shop.Lot of detailers use rotary to do cutting and finish with LHR mark 3 to polish/finish.I will try that next time.
Hey gunman did you try less compound they say 4 to 6 pea size drops to prime the pad and after I use 2 to 3 pea size drops over 1 square ft area and see if that helps. clean pads and less is more
It's all in the machine polishing technique. Forced DA, DA or rotary, detailers know how to work with them. From your vid, i can see minor hologram from the rotary and for the flex DA, I could see micro marring. Both easily fixed with correct technique and pads/correction liquid.
Well I have borrowed the Rupes Bigfoot from my boss for the weekend, I have some new microfiber pads and a determination to get the perfect finish!! I'll have to do an update on how I go. Could you elaborate on technique and pads/liquid. PS (Wax is cheating.)
@@TheGunmanChannel couple of pointers. On the DA, slow down your arm movement/coverage speed. DA typically cuts slower than rotary. Micro marring after a DA pass, go down on cutting scale on your correction liquids and/or move down on a less dense pad or even change correction speed on the DA. Curved areas will increase possibility of micromarring hence keep pads small to keep it flat with the surface you're polishing. Hope that helps.
@@timothygumbaris7979 I appreciate your help mate but I've all but given up on DA polishers for this ceramic clear, I tried everything everyone's been recommending but nothing will get the marring out. $80 of fancy Meguiar's microfiber pads, no better than the Rupes ones I already had. Different pressures and speeds did nothing to improve the results. I'm going to use the 3M stage 3 blue ultrafine polish and blue pads on the rotary. I won't believe it's possible to get perfect unless someone physically shows me, I am 99% convinced I've found the limits of orbital polishers, on this clear at the very least.
Ask Sandro on the youtube channel...car craft auto detailing.
This guy is the best..period!!
They do that when you are buffing dry. Prime your pad first. Then you only need 3 or for small drops of compound. That sonax an excellent compound. Use heavy cut pad with it and slow down you motions. They don't put as much heart as a rotary and you can move slower. After you do a panel blow the pad off with compressed air and add a couple more drops and repeat.
Most people now are finding out that is you want great results and really fast you compound with a rotary and finish down with long throw DA.
Hey mate the little carolla is looking great. I have always used a variable speed rotary buff with the old Juice c cut or speed cut (It's water based so no problem with rubbers ) with 150mm sponge pad and Juice swirl remover with a soft black sponge pad or the black 8" dimpled pad for large areas. I have always been happy with the finish. Old school I know but I don't see the scence in spending $800 on a da when I can get good results with my rotary. I think too many people put too much weight on the machine. Let the buff do the work without pushing down and forcing the finish.
Great review, bummer you didn't get it to work.
For me the corded XFE 7-15 has been working great. I've done about 50 cars now I think, so still a novice. You are very right in that these polishers are super easy to use, I struggle a lot with rotaries, but not with these. In my experience I was able to get that perfect finish with the XFE. However, haven't tried perfection on such a soft flat black paint yet.
I use the pad damp and clean it very often with a pad washer (after every two hits 1m^2 section). It does a better job at cleaning pads than my FLEX PE14-1. Damp pads are way more supple and soft. Maybe it's worth giving a try.
Thanks for the video!
Wow! I didn’t know they can stall , thumbs up 👍
Yes, always great to learn something new isn't it.
I have never used a DA / Random orbital for polishing or cutting. A straight orbital is all you need, my cars come up like glass with no swirls. Favourite polish is the Farecla range and some 3M stuff.
You mean the same orbital sander you use to prep the car with?
@@TheGunmanChannel I use a DA orbital for sanding and prep. But just a 240 volt orbital for buffing. Its actually sander/cutter/buffer in one. But I only use it for buffing. I start with yellow pads and farecla G6 rapid, then finish with a soft black pad and 3M ultra fine cut / swirl remover.
It’s because orbitals don’t cut enough to remove sanding scratches. Rotary you can go faster
These are long throw dual action orbiters. They definitely cut fast enough with the right compound and pad. The best compound have abrasives that break down over time and finish down better. Griot garage compound is good,
Orbitals can be very aggressive. A friemd of mine had me try out his Rupes 21mk2 at his shop. I was cutting a and polishing a car for him.
The 21 mk2 was Set up with a Meguiar's xtra cut microfiber pad, and Meguiar's M100. I got to speed 2 and it was way too much for me, so I went back to the Makita rotary I was using.
Random orbitals are derived from wood sanders, where rotaries are basically grinders. Both are highly capable at removing film build.
Heck, my first time on an orbital - I struck through the paint! Everyone said it couldn't happen. Well. It did. It was my Porter Cable 7424xp, green Hex Logic pads, and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.
Try some Angelwax Redemption ultra fine finishing polish. Go beyond the black finishing pad and get an ultra finishing pad.
I have the same problem with Audi Cars. The paint is insane soft. I just switched to softer pads. I recommend lake country white pads to finish.
Always hated when finished polishing and would add a random swirl mark from a piece of grit that somehow got in the microfiber towel
At 12.09sec to get rid of that, all you need is a few dots of Menzerna 2500. That will get rid of that no problem. I do paint correction alot and i had that issues before until i found the 2500. Flawless paint everytime
Awesome 👏 video gunny that flex machine looks so decent haha 😂 thanks 🙏 for the info and the review spot on the money gunny you hit the nail on the head with that video lol keep it up much love and respect ✊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌😉😉😉🙏🙏🙏🙏🔥🔥🧨🧨🧨💣💣💣💣👏👏👏👏👏👏💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Try doing a review on a Rupes? 150mm or the 21"orbit. Id like to see what you think? Im using the 150mm Rupes polisher and found it to be superior to most other brands. Never had the chance to use a DaS Flex as these are used by a British company of the polish I use exclusively. Would like to know your thoughts!!
Love your quality paint jobs too!!
I just went to the Rupes 21 orbital with there compounds. Was very impressed with it. Saves time & finish was way better. Used the blue coarse pads followed by the yellow.
Your a likeable larrikin. Honest and true. 👍
It took me a moment to see what you were seeing around the 11:20, but you're right in that the haze really stood out once you saw it. I know you're chasing that last 1-2% of perfection, but I must say that your little 'rolla is looking amazing. Could it be that what your experiencing is a shortcoming of the diamond clear?
Hi Gordon, well I did think that myself but after having the same hazing on the standox clear I use at work I'm pretty sure I've found the limits of orbital polishers, they're great for removing swirls but after some research I don't think I'm the only one who has this issue.
I've never really had much luck with them previously. I tried one of the no-name 8mm machines previously and I wasn't impressed.
Of the little polishing I do, it's rotary all the way. I have recently acquired a makita cordless da/geared head polisher(DPO600) which ticks many of the boxed for me. Enable the geared head for when I want it to behave like a rotary, switch back to da when it's finishing/waxing.
And to add after paint cures we all used a wax ploish by hand. I still belive show car finishes are achieved by hand. Machines help you got there quicker. But true love if from the hands on touch 👌
Hello from the big apple USA. You have a great guy at car craft detailing in Melbourne he has a channel like you. The best detailor I have ever seen. Check out some of his videos
I would like to know your thoughts on a fixed rotation machine like the Makita or Rupes??
Great video!
We got some new pads for the random oribital rupes we use. One of the shops rupes took a shit and i threw the pads on my dynabrade D.A and it worked like a charm haha. Not gonna make it a happen but brother, let me tell you... the throw of that fine sanding dyna paired with the pads produces a beautiful smooth no haziness finish
I'm really surprised at your findings Gunny I always thought that a orbital polisher was the be all and end all for getting the mirror swirl free finish but it seems not, having said that when I used to detail my cars I used to use a clay bar first then a rotary polisher and finish off by hand but I used waxes so the fillers would hide some imperfections in the final finish. It would be interesting to see if you find a workaround and get the finish you are looking for. John UK
And for the record, i think you may be using a little to much product. Try legit 4-5 tiny drops. I even sprits it a little with water once the product starts drying up during polishing.. i think that will help alot with the haze. Sorry for blowing up your notifications, i just get fired up when it comes to painting/polishing :)
Brand new microfiber pads with a couple of dobs, no difference at all
@@TheGunmanChannel not sure i understand what you mean?
Ever used farecla g360 with the wool pad comes in a kit .Compound wool pad and foam pad awesome stuff cuts beautiful 😍... freezing here in ireland at the moment think I'll move to oz......
To the people who don't seem to understand da is dual action or in English two actions rotate and the other action means not from a central point so the pad moves of centre by a few millimeters on a cheap version to about 15mm on more expensive ones.
Will you put out a review on the Milwaukee buffers?
Coming in the next few weeks mate
Hi gunman I’ve had the same problem myself but it’s more on a car after I’ve painted it but I’ve heard if you put a washer between the backing pad and the machine it can remedy it.it makes the machine run more free I think you have to grind down either side of the washer for it to fit I must try it myself. Cheers for the content.
That's with the Rupes line. The knock offs from China don't have the anti-spin. Not the ones I've used.
After reading comments. Yea 18yrs ago never had the cool tools but as mechanic i polished up cars to make some cash. But yea always had a swirl free and mirrored finishes. Just took longer 🤣
From a detailer point of view on your trouble... Try to reduce the pression onto the panel and check what lind of polishing fluid you use. Its so difficult that in a ceramic clear due to its hardness you can actually marry it and leave some love marks from the DA. Also, reduce the arm speed and use water or spray wax to moisturize the pads and fluids so the abrassives break down a little bit. Hope it helps bro!
Done it all mate, nothing will work. I've given up on that machine on blacks. But you're right the ceramic clear doesn't help 😬
@@TheGunmanChannel what pad are you using? As the clear is so fragile, try with a finishing pad and mix your polishing fluid in 1:4 (1 part of fluid, 4 parts of water) Black paints are a pain to detail but that way I could take care of that marring.
@@sergiobarraza1806 I've tried every pad I can get my hands on, even bought some expensive Meguiar's microfiber pads which made literally no difference. I will have a go at diluting the polish next time I'm out there but for now I'm convinced the 3M ultrafine polish and blue pad on the rotary will be the answer.
@@TheGunmanChannel Mf its for cutting. Try a foam soft finishing pad and you will see the difference
@@sergiobarraza1806 dude I finally nailed it, I'm so happy and it's definitely not the machine or pad, it turns out it was the polish, I use the 3M step 3 ultrafine polish and it's near on perfect!! I'll do a follow-up video 😃
Sonax perfect finish has diminishing and non diminishing abrasives they are ultra fine, really used for a rotary but works wonders on dual action with no issue I find.
Have you tried the rupes white pad with their rupes uno pure white finishing polish, plus a new cloth to buff off
Watching some of your old vids.wow you're a lot better now,you sounded very robotic🇬🇧
I bought a TORQX Random Orbital Polisher about a year ago and got the same results you are frustrated with. I played around with it just as you did but still got the hazing on my black Mustang. Went back to the rotary and the hazing was gone.
This guy knows ☝️, hey man, I have found they all do it.
Hey gunny great review but I never used an orbital polisher used the normal ones and it works great don't know if it's the orbital action just saying any ways good job cheers
if your seeing it on all of the DAs then its your residue control thats an issue. Those look like some groaty pads matey. When your polishing a car there is clear coat/single stage coming off into the buffing liquid and onto the pad. If that resude isn't blown out, often, then it will cause scouring, most likely what your seeing here. You can add more liquid to control the residue on the pad, or you can reduce your work area, or do both those things. as long as your using the right size pads for the backing plate and the da is free spinning 2-3 orbits per second, you going to get a good result.
It was none of that, it is the worst clear ever to finish. Any other clears don't have this issue. That's what it ended up being
I would try to put blue pad from 3M and blue cap UltraFina polish from 3M if the only problem is the colour.Works for me .
Dude gunny. Isnt it crazy how times and the industry is changing?! I will never go back to cord polishers.. a couple years ago ppl would look at me funny if i said im gonna use chordless polishers.. its almost becoming "the way".
Hey gunny, you are a paint refinished not a detailer. What a detailer classes as a compound, in your industry it’s more like a the second polishing step in the 3m perfect it range. I’ve tried most compounds eg schroll concepts, meguiars compound etc and they don’t compare to say 3m extreme cut compound. This is my process:
Compound with 3m extreme cut with a rotary
Polish with 3m perfect it ex polish with a forced rotation machine.
Finish off with 3m ultrafine machine polish with a da.
I’ve got heaps of compound from other companies from rave reviews but they always have been disappointing.
In your industry you need at least a forced rotation machine at the minimum. I see your technique is all wrong when using a da. You need to slow your arm speed. You are polishing like you have a rotary in your hands. An inch a second is what is recommended.
So it’s a slow process with random orbit, so it does my head in when people use these tools to compound.
The only pad that works for me to compound out sand scratches after using trizact with a da is the rupes blue wool pad. Even then the process takes much longer (5 times longer?) than using say a rotary with the 3m green pad.
So don’t listen to other people as they aren’t in your industry. They don’t do what you do.
Thanks heaps for the detailed information Ivan.
@@TheGunmanChannel Hey Gunny you need to watch some Vids from AMMO NYC and WHITEDETAILS and look at there technique AMMO has a Vid on going over all the stages of paint correcting, you need to slow down your motion and turn the speed up on the machine when doing the final polishing stage. I did a full polish on my own Black HSV Senator and from removing all the minor scratches to the final finish took me over 20hrs to complete and these 2 UA-cam channels helped a lot, the paint looks brand new.
@@TheGunmanChannel no worries mate. I should take a photo of all the products “detailers” have recommended to me that I don’t use, as the stuff is no good. 3m perfect it, I’ve gone through so many bottles I’ve lost count.
Also in your trade definitely try a forced rotation machine. It’s a bit harder to use then a da but it’s cutting ability is much better.
@@keevasmybitch sanding scratches mate, not wear scratches!! Another detailer advice.
@@ivantieu6764 scratches are scratches, doesn’t matter how they get there they are scratches!! Didn’t know cutting compounds knew the difference between sanding scratches and scratches made by washing to people rubbing there hands on paint work. LOL
Hey Gunny. Try Menzerna Super Finish. Menzerna is the best. German made.
Hi great video as usual.i have a question for you thats a bit off topic; but i hope you can help.im looking for some "opacity stickers" used in conjuction with spray out cards for assisting in 3 stage. a small check sticker is added to the sprayout card after the ground coat.another sticker is added to th cars maskig when spraying the mid coat.this aids in letting you see if your match is good. i see this done on a standox training video. have you ever seen them or know where to buy them?thanks.
The xfe is only for finishing. You need the xce forced rotation da cordless.
Hey gunman! I'm a car painter from denmark an just want to know where you buy the sealer nozzle i have seen you use?
Do what battery powerd polisher would anyone recommend that doesn't give off that haze effect?
what would you guys recommend for cutting and polishing? The flex xfe or the flex xce ?
Want the right one for quickly doing denibs and removing my sanding scratches and then poliahing without swirls with a black polishing pad
Any chance you can get Neil to come see if he can improve the haze left behind with the Flex? I wish I could have at that paint myself. Sounds like a nice challenge. What paint system is that? Maybe some local painter can grab some for me.
As it turns out I nailed it. Here's the video I did after getting it ua-cam.com/video/_1XiWDbNZTw/v-deo.html
@@TheGunmanChannel great to hear. Just watched. Looks way better. I'm glad you didn't quit and kept the open mind, Gunman. I just ordered my own Flex XCE-8 to add to my growing collection of Flex tools. You should check out my custom Flex 3401 on my IG :) @bb_Detailing. Polished housing and orange body.
You are trying to use DA pads with a gear driven orbital. You need the shorter Mille pads
It's a DA not forced rotation
How did you get the box with it ?
Hi was looking at this video and I don't know if you have heard of him but there's a reality good detailer in Australia he has his own UA-cam channel called car craft auto detailing he explains everything you need to know about compounding and polishing and how to get rid of haze look him up when you get a chance love your UA-cam channel
My god that black bits looked like a crime scene under uv lol..flippen lol long sub of channel Gunny busting balls mate
You can't see it with the light off. I'm chasing the perfect finish but haven't had much luck with this machine, Rupes Bigfoot LHR21 kicks ass with exactly same pads and compounds.
Hey bud. Use a yellow rupes with your finishing polish and work it for 30 seconds and don’t wipe it off
Then switch to a primed rupes white pad and finish out. Don’t add any product. See if that helps
The rotary is still the best machine. No pad drag like DA. .DA polishers in my 27 years of detailing are a great one step correction machine or a cutting step machine before finishing with a rotary. The number one key to success is keeping the pads really clean and switching to a clean one often. Alot of crash shops make the mistake of not keeping pads clean. Paint becomes your enemy as soon as it is abraded off the car onto your pad. Some soft sticky paints dont like rotary so a shorter orbit tool like 8-12mm work well with fast arm speed. But in general the rotary gives more colour richness. My preference for machines. 1. Rotary. 2. Forced rotation 3. Random orbital 8-15mm orbit size..
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Rupes is the best good power and you can replace any part U need it will go for ever
Try using the sonax ex 04-06
Tried all that. I think I've found the limits of orbital polishers. I'm not the only one who knows this. Many detailing channels don't show you the paint in proper light, hiding the imperfections.
That is gangster as f
Ok I finished the video, what a disappointment that was
As it turns out I managed to get it working as it should. ua-cam.com/video/_1XiWDbNZTw/v-deo.html watch this one mate
My friend you use way too much polish, MVH.. ESOTERIC
It's hard to stall a rotary buff. I used to use a 9inch random orbital air sander on big jobs and it was nearly impossible to stall. I think it had a slightly different mechanical device compared to the normal counterweight type of random orbitals. I never thought twice at the time, but I can only assume it had a geared or one-way bearing type offset counterweight inside. look into "Ingersoll Rand 8" Geared Orbital Sander 328B. You could also get a random orbital polisher and pull the bearings out and replace them with one-way type bearings?
ua-cam.com/video/x0cbONI3NPw/v-deo.html
Expensive
Put some hand glaze on there..Or new ceramic hand polish..Swirls will go away..
i use micro fiber pads on those machines don't like foam
What? They are just fine with foam.
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
It’s your product leaving the haze and not the tool foo lol
Check out AMMO NYC channel
Better paint buddy
Thanks I won’t buy that thing
You'll get better result if you slow down with your polishing. Your polishing is all over the place