whats diferent between ic tpa7294 and tpa7294v . i got replace tpa7294 by tpa7294v but it blowup when turn on speaker... the problem of the speaker was low sound and overheating tpa ic...
I have decided that my money is best spent on real component outlets like Farnell etc. It might seem to cost me a bit more but at least I will get my moneys worth and no ruddy fakes.
I agree Elecifun. My next valve amp project will be around $400 but at least I'll have genuine parts from a reputable source. I do think the chinesium kits have value in that when you stumble upon a good design you can upgrade the kit with genuine parts. The boards are often good and the circuit design is sound.
Good point. When shipping costs are higher than the actual item, I walk away. I often have to wait for a bargain. Some distributors offer free shipping when the order exceeds $100 for example. That's inconvenient but is an option depending on your project. All part of the sport I guess...🤔🙄
The Chinese version of 7294, less than $2 I tried works very well. It doesn't have 6A current limitation. I didn't push it high in power but there are two trials on UA-cam for $2 kit, they get 98W before clipping with 2x40v 4ohms.
The original 7293 microcircuit has a resistance between the metal ear ( + ohmmeter) and pins 5, 10, 11 ( - ohmmeter) ---- about 3 MOhm, in reverse polarity - infinity.
3:40 at that image you see you have the dent of the side of the ic, well the aluminium is not supposed to be visible on the dent, its also a general indicator of that the ic is mostly fake, i have got a TDA2050 from a shop which was fakes, it also had visible iron in the dents, the ic was only able to produce 0.3Watts of clean sound to 8R on +- 8volt power supply, 110VA transformer.
@@Elecifun what do you mean you ballsed it? Can I ask how?? Sigh. Two weeks. I know the wait time sucks. Anyway these things happen. The show must go on though. Can you repair the old board? Maybe if you destroyed a trace you can get some copper and epoxy. I've seen them do that and it's good to know how to do it.
@@Elecifun maybe you had trouble getting the old tda7294 ics out. Without proper desoldering iron I guess it's a very tricky procedure. Anyway, I guess we shall wait. Sigh. 😕
I fell into the trap - mounted a set and with 28v +- in a dual config - they blew immediately. My pcb is all good - built two other amps with RS supplied - so obviously these are lower voltage or just total rubbish - tried another pair and boom - same thing. As you say - the genuines are not cheap - but therewa .. Didn't blow the fuse or affect to Psupp - or any other comp - Now to get a refund -- not easy!
whats diferent between ic tpa7294 and tpa7294v . i got replace tpa7294 by tpa7294v but it blowup when turn on speaker... the problem of the speaker was low sound and overheating tpa ic...
I wish it was easier to spot a fake. I detest counterfeit goods sold as genuine.
I have decided that my money is best spent on real component outlets like Farnell etc. It might seem to cost me a bit more but at least I will get my moneys worth and no ruddy fakes.
I agree Elecifun. My next valve amp project will be around $400 but at least I'll have genuine parts from a reputable source. I do think the chinesium kits have value in that when you stumble upon a good design you can upgrade the kit with genuine parts. The boards are often good and the circuit design is sound.
@@Sonic_Ox I agree 100% Ox, having just built a amplifier circuit with a bad rap. Modding with genuine parts it sounds great, to my ears.
Yes, Farnell prices are ok, BUT shipping costs is way much high. Examp for my country is 20 Euros.
Good point. When shipping costs are higher than the actual item, I walk away. I often have to wait for a bargain. Some distributors offer free shipping when the order exceeds $100 for example. That's inconvenient but is an option depending on your project. All part of the sport I guess...🤔🙄
I think it's pretty clear that the ebay ones are used, and have been removed from e-waste and resold. Very common these days sadly.
The Chinese version of 7294, less than $2 I tried works very well. It doesn't have 6A current limitation. I didn't push it high in power but there are two trials on UA-cam for $2 kit, they get 98W before clipping with 2x40v 4ohms.
The original 7293 microcircuit has a resistance between the metal ear ( + ohmmeter) and pins 5, 10, 11 ( - ohmmeter) ---- about 3 MOhm, in reverse polarity - infinity.
you mean pin 5, 11, 12 right?
@@andrew39454 Йес
3:40 at that image you see you have the dent of the side of the ic, well the aluminium is not supposed to be visible on the dent, its also a general indicator of that the ic is mostly fake, i have got a TDA2050 from a shop which was fakes, it also had visible iron in the dents, the ic was only able to produce 0.3Watts of clean sound to 8R on +- 8volt power supply, 110VA transformer.
But here the original one has also visible aluminium in the dents!?
@@PaulPadrino im not sure, but i find that questionable.
How can I buy original ic ?
Best to buy from RS_Components, Farnell, Digikey, Mouser etc..
What's going on sir ? Have you got the genuine TD7294 ics soldered in?
Not yet I've been building other circuits and testing. I will do it in the next few days.
@@Elecifun Okay, cool I look forward to it ! 😀 👍
@@decem_unosquattro9538 Iv'e ballsed it. Have to order another board without I'C's. Two week wait for delivery... Nuts!
@@Elecifun what do you mean you ballsed it? Can I ask how?? Sigh. Two weeks. I know the wait time sucks. Anyway these things happen. The show must go on though. Can you repair the old board? Maybe if you destroyed a trace you can get some copper and epoxy. I've seen them do that and it's good to know how to do it.
@@Elecifun maybe you had trouble getting the old tda7294 ics out.
Without proper desoldering iron I guess it's a very tricky procedure.
Anyway, I guess we shall wait. Sigh. 😕
I fell into the trap - mounted a set and with 28v +- in a dual config - they blew immediately. My pcb is all good - built two other amps with RS supplied - so obviously these are lower voltage or just total rubbish - tried another pair and boom - same thing. As you say - the genuines are not cheap - but therewa .. Didn't blow the fuse or affect to Psupp - or any other comp - Now to get a refund -- not easy!