Whoops, looks like we published this video while the HD version is still processing lol, we might be a little UA-cam Rusty, but none the less the video will clear up. We hope you enjoy this crash course update video as we kick off our built motor journey in the vRS3 and get our UA-cam back into gear. Enjoy - George & Stav
One of the greatest Audi VR6T channel ever. I'm building a fully built 2.7T but after following your channel. I am finishing the 2.7T I'm gonna enjoy it while building a VR6T for my C5 A6. All because of this channel.
Stav's right about the expansion tank, but you may still need a larger tank. In a sealed system, at least when operating properly, the volume of air is what dictates system pressure at temperature. The fluid will expand a certain amount, the amount of air in the system that is able to compress, determines the system pressure. More air volume, less system pressure. It's the difference between expansion tank and overflow tank systems. That said, there still needs to be a large enough air volume to not cause over pressurization. You can trick the science a little here though, if you're set on that size. If you open the cap while the system is hot (fluid expanded, but not under significant pressure obviously) and let some of that air escape then put the cap back on while the fluid is still hot, once it cools there will be a slight pressure depression in the system. When it reaches temp again, system pressure will be less, even though you're working with the same volume. The expansion of the fluid is the same, but there's less air to compress into the 'extra' space, resulting in a lower overall pressure. This does depend on the design of the cap, some will normalize a lower pressure to atmosphere.
Whoa, appreciate the insight, perhaps it’s time we switch to Water less coolant, while still more pricey than standard coolant, the benefits may appeal to us on this setup
@@MalakaMotorSports waterless definitely has a couple advantages, but all liquids expand/contract to some degree directly with temperature, disregarding the weird way water acts as it freezes. I'd fill that tank half way with air and see what happens. If it still vents, hook a cheap pressure gauge up to the vent and see how far over that 20psi you are once it does.
SUPER excited this is back. Favorite build out there. BUTTTTT hear me out, can you guys put that rs3 motor and trans in my 2017 GLI? I think she'll fit lmao
🔥🔥💯 can't wait to see this thing rippin on the built block. Bro Stav, hopefully you get those parts soon that 12v is gonna be 👌🏾🔥💯. Thanks for keeping the dream alive guys.🤙🏽
Thank you for the support Unfortunately I’m just going to have to wait for the parts . But once I get them I will show everyone every step of the way. Very excited and thank you for the support -stav
Not sure what rob dahm uses. Unfortunately in my free time I’ve been changing stuff up on the vrs3 and trying to learn syvecs but I’ll Have to check it out -stav
@@MalakaMotorSports it’s definitely a great video to watch when you have some free time (approx. 1.5hrs long, I think) on how to make a high-end mil spec loom. Especially since the vrs3 is a lifer like the S4s. Great to see you guys back, can’t wait to see the build and tune for this new engine.
Anyone else love how Stav is always wearing sunglasses in all these videos! Glad to see that you guys are still at it!! Can't wait to see this beast at it's full potential!
In a previous video, you had said one of the main reasons to go to the vr6 was that the engines are cheap and easy to source. Isn’t the billet block the opposite of those? Will take a couple months and cost a ton?
It’s an extreme route, but ironically the Billet VR6 motor capable of over 1700hp costs the same as a new 5cyl RS3 engine from Audi (15-25k) and those are popping/breaking at 1000-1400hp range So which would you rather have ?
It’s not so much lapping a valve that’s difficult I’ve done this before. Also having the ability to vacuum or pressure test after finished to ensure your head isn’t leaking. Unfortunately there’s only so much 2 Malakas in a small garage can do.
Aye! I know these guys, haha. Glad to see you all are back and ready to build. I checked out of social media myself but I'm glad you all are still posting other places as well.
@@MalakaMotorSports my 21 Porsche 911 C4S (992) (Carrera 4S) finally came in. The RS3 however, I do miss already and is a car I would absolutely consider in the future.
Valve lapping is easy with new valves and seats that have been ground for 3 angles or what ever. You don’t need to vacuum test afterwards, you can physically see the grey lapped surface, just visually check that the lapped grey area continues 360 degrees with no gaps… it really is that easy. I would hand lap with the wooded shaft and sucker tool, although the round rocker tool that fits in the drill and has a sucker on the end work ok, just let it slowly rotate in your hand as you go. Just make sure you clean off all the grinding paste.
Absolutely it’s something I’ve done before wirh diesel heads. But still rather have a machine shop do it and double check their work. Couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve seen bad head work. But if we were in a pinch and needed to get it done absolutely
Good afternoon hey man I got a question I don't know that much about VW I'm getting into it now . I bought an r 32 engine from A Touareg 04 And I want to put the engine in a mk4 2.8 24v Can I use the oem transmission and the harness for the r 32 ?
I’m not sure exactly what needs to be done. Transmission should bolt up no problem. But the harness may be slightly different. Also timing and intake manifold mounting I believe is different. -stav
Great vid guys 🙌🏻 Question... You talked about how the 5-cyl had DI and there were a bunch of wires you didn't use because the VR6 doesn't have DI, are you guys somehow adding DI with the new built motor, or... will the builit VR have it added in the future? TY 🍺
Hey Kevin the newer cars all have direct injection 2.0t, 2.5t and even the 3.6 vr6 has direct injection. This is what helps them run higher compression due to it being direct port. We are not going to be running direct port. The only direct port we will consider is “NITROUS”
Lapping valves is super easy, and you can check the seal with a permanent marker around the sealing face of the valve and a lap tool...if youre not lapped in itll leave marker in the area thats not sealed. Not a huge process. Now cutting valves (5 angle job) requires a machine or a machine shop...just lapping is simple though
Maybe you’ll tell us towards the end of the video but you never mentioned what transmissions you’re considering going with if/when you choose to no longer use the DQ. Sequential? If not, what else are you thinking? I’m really excited to see the progress fellas. Cheers from from a fellow SoCal VR6 nut🍺
Let’s cross that bridge when we get there, first we’ll try our best to break the RS3 DQ500 transmission and some hearts along the way. Btw, thank you for the support and kind words ❤️ -George & Stav
I’m now suing Justin Timberlake for the song “sexy back “ In 2021 I’m bringing sexy back lol But thank you so much for the kind comments I have a lot of work to do. But feel way better appreciate it -stav
Dude, you guys could make a vr > 2.7 shirt, I wouldn't be mad haha! Stoked you guys are back! It was awesome to chat at Socal Euro! As of this last weekend I sourced my oil leak, and got the passenger head in correct timing. Ran it last night trying to do break in cycles and it ran good till no cooling fans came on, electrical isn't much my thing.. gonna need Stav after he reroutes the ecu and the adds for fueling.. yknow, since we have till December 😂 🙌
@@MalakaMotorSports ya front end was off, I bled it off twice with no more bubbles near the throttle body, it ran for 15 mins or so before it spewed out the loose reservoir cap, but I'm at a loss for why the fans didn't kick on.. it didn't register as hot, but then again I should have had the vcds hooked up to monitor temp.. some believe I have an air pocket at the lower radiator temp sensor.. ive done 2 warm up and cool down cycles, I bet neighborhood cruising would burp it.. I also need to verify I spliced the correct oem fan wire per JHM's write up
@@bmorlok84 interesting I was just talking to someone about this today having a similar issue on their B5. Ended up being the lower temp sensor on the radiator hose.have you tried turning on the A/c . On that car the large jhm fan should automatically turn on with the a/c no matter the temp. But yes Definately check your wires. Also make sure to bleed system while running the heat to fully cycle. Just a few tips I’ve come across some pesky air pockets blessing my vr6 sometimes. Sometimes driving it around then parking it and opening cap after a few minutes did the trick.
@@MalakaMotorSports ya someone else mentioned turning the ac on too. I'll have to give that a go. I prefer the drive it around method too to burp it, but ik hesitant as its a full rebuild, so I want to get those break in cycles good too
@@MalakaMotorSports so you’re telling me no one has thought of a oil sump solution to make a girdle that attaches to both sides of the 3+4 main caps? Sounds like theres an untapped market there…
@@justindelvalle9179 there are other options but they space out the pump a bit further which is something we don’t want to mess with. Rather leave the oil pump system as is. Lot of big power and 7 second VR6 powered cars in Europe are using the same steel girdle we have opted to use, so we are confident this will help and work for us.
Secret to lapping valves is three things. One: Only rotate the valve 90-120 degrees from center without going in a circle. Two: Only put a dab of lapping compound in one spot. Three: Lift the valve and resume when you hear the grinding feel go way down. The lifting of the valve will draw the compound back into the center of the seat. If the valves are concentric with the seat, the compound will work it's way around 360 degrees from the dab. If you don't rotate beyond 120 from starting point CW or CCW then you will know if the seat is not concentric. There will be a spot that doesn't get lapped. If it's just a small amount, continue until the valve is lapped 360 degrees. If it's extreme, the seats are cut improperly. KEY POINTS, YOU CANNOT HURT THE VALVE OR SEAT BY LAPPING THEM. IF YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE AN EQUAL THICKNESS LAP LINE ON THE SEAT, NO VACUUM TEST IS NECESSARY, IT WILL SEAL PERFECT 110%
Absolutely. I’ve actually done many dirt bike and Cummins engine cylinder heads. If we needed to lap valves fast for an event we could do it. But prefer being able to double check my work. And the first machine shop who did my motor in California did not lap valves correctly and all valves leaked. So even experts make mistakes. But we do double check everything
Good to see you back in business Malakas. I've been waiting for this build with extreme anticipation. I'm still considering a VR in the back of a 60s GM sports car. Corvair Monza mid engine de-stroked VR36/R36 with a DQ? or different trans. De-wookied with carbon unequal bellmouths inside a plenum and unequal length header tubes to have everything equidistant from the valves. Keeping the back seat and shoehorning it in between the rear axle and rear seat back (probably seat back/firewall moved forward 2-4 inches. Everything should fit.
Well that sounds like a very fun project similar to that Renault with a vr6. Very cool if you do start this project be sure to tag us on Instagram @malakamotorsports. Would love to follow your build
Whoops, looks like we published this video while the HD version is still processing lol, we might be a little UA-cam Rusty, but none the less the video will clear up. We hope you enjoy this crash course update video as we kick off our built motor journey in the vRS3 and get our UA-cam back into gear.
Enjoy
- George & Stav
One of the greatest Audi VR6T channel ever. I'm building a fully built 2.7T but after following your channel. I am finishing the 2.7T I'm gonna enjoy it while building a VR6T for my C5 A6. All because of this channel.
Ha same plans with my c5 wagon
I have thoughts of doing the same to my C7.5 2.0T. would love to have everything working with no CEL like they do.
Stav dropped a few pounds I see.
stav been on his grind at planet fitness 💪💪💪💪
Been battling the stairmaster at planet fitness so far I’ve been loosing lol
-stav
@@MalakaMotorSports Stav, Keep it up bud.
@@gertsnyman5287 thanks man appreciate all the kind words.
I get Blues Brothers vibes when I see Stav with the sunglasses. 👍✌️
That’s a good reference
It was nice meeting you at SoCal euro. You were very nice to my son unfortunately we did last due to the heat. Keep up the great content
Absolutely we love meeting fellow enthusiasts and that sun was glaring that day.
Stav's right about the expansion tank, but you may still need a larger tank.
In a sealed system, at least when operating properly, the volume of air is what dictates system pressure at temperature. The fluid will expand a certain amount, the amount of air in the system that is able to compress, determines the system pressure. More air volume, less system pressure. It's the difference between expansion tank and overflow tank systems.
That said, there still needs to be a large enough air volume to not cause over pressurization. You can trick the science a little here though, if you're set on that size. If you open the cap while the system is hot (fluid expanded, but not under significant pressure obviously) and let some of that air escape then put the cap back on while the fluid is still hot, once it cools there will be a slight pressure depression in the system. When it reaches temp again, system pressure will be less, even though you're working with the same volume. The expansion of the fluid is the same, but there's less air to compress into the 'extra' space, resulting in a lower overall pressure. This does depend on the design of the cap, some will normalize a lower pressure to atmosphere.
Whoa, appreciate the insight, perhaps it’s time we switch to Water less coolant, while still more pricey than standard coolant, the benefits may appeal to us on this setup
@@MalakaMotorSports waterless definitely has a couple advantages, but all liquids expand/contract to some degree directly with temperature, disregarding the weird way water acts as it freezes.
I'd fill that tank half way with air and see what happens. If it still vents, hook a cheap pressure gauge up to the vent and see how far over that 20psi you are once it does.
Looks good I'll buy it from you when finished
"came from my stock block holding 35 psi" stav really be quick as fuh!
Quick like a 12v lol
-stav
Welcome back! Breaks are good, but Beskar is gooder 💪
Welcome back. I’m super stoked for this build series.
Absolutely. After having so much fun with you guys at socal euro. It’s time to get back to business
I can see Stav has been hitting the gym looking good bro. Keep it up bro
Thank you so much. I’ve been hitting the gym for the last 6 months down about 75 LBS. So far
Stairmaster and weights been kicking my butt lol
-stav
Glad you guys are back, been missing the ball busting. Looking forward to the build.
Trust me we have a lot of great content coming. Appreciate the support
who machines vr6's and will take shipments?
I’m having problems playing the video. Is it just me?
Finally get to watch . Wahoo
About time that engine comes in! Lol
⏰ hahahah
SUPER excited this is back. Favorite build out there. BUTTTTT hear me out, can you guys put that rs3 motor and trans in my 2017 GLI? I think she'll fit lmao
With time and money anything is possible I bet it would bolt up. Now the wiring would be interesting
🔥🔥💯 can't wait to see this thing rippin on the built block. Bro Stav, hopefully you get those parts soon that 12v is gonna be 👌🏾🔥💯. Thanks for keeping the dream alive guys.🤙🏽
Thank you for the support
Unfortunately I’m just going to have to wait for the parts . But once I get them I will show everyone every step of the way. Very excited and thank you for the support
-stav
Stav, would you be doing a new wiring loom with what Rob Dahn has done with his 2 rotor engine?
Not sure what rob dahm uses. Unfortunately in my free time I’ve been changing stuff up on the vrs3 and trying to learn syvecs but I’ll
Have to check it out
-stav
@@MalakaMotorSports it’s definitely a great video to watch when you have some free time (approx. 1.5hrs long, I think) on how to make a high-end mil spec loom. Especially since the vrs3 is a lifer like the S4s.
Great to see you guys back, can’t wait to see the build and tune for this new engine.
@@martingidaszewski7342 would you know the title of this video? May watch it while I’m doing some research. Sounds interesting
Anyone else love how Stav is always wearing sunglasses in all these videos!
Glad to see that you guys are still at it!! Can't wait to see this beast at it's full potential!
Thank you so much for the support.
“Have to keep the shades on because my future is bright” lol
-stav
In a previous video, you had said one of the main reasons to go to the vr6 was that the engines are cheap and easy to source. Isn’t the billet block the opposite of those? Will take a couple months and cost a ton?
It’s an extreme route, but ironically the Billet VR6 motor capable of over 1700hp costs the same as a new 5cyl RS3 engine from Audi (15-25k) and those are popping/breaking at 1000-1400hp range
So which would you rather have ?
The Seattle Mariners hat! Shoutout from Seattle brothasss. You guys are awesome
Ichiro Suzuki was the man lol
First off you have it all wrong, its 12>24, and don't you forget it pal. :)
Duhhhhh
Lapping valves is no big deal. I can teach you how to do this properly in 5 minutes or less.
It’s not so much lapping a valve that’s difficult I’ve done this before. Also having the ability to vacuum or pressure test after finished to ensure your head isn’t leaking. Unfortunately there’s only so much 2 Malakas in a small garage can do.
I've been wondering, but we happy, now let's sit down.
Hahahah. Let’s have some fun
Hell yea. Glad to see y’all back
Thank you so much
great to see you back! youtube was getting boring without you :-D
We are back to break more parts and go faster. Thank you for the support
"this 12, 13 minute video" he says at minute 28 😂
Hahaha
Aye! I know these guys, haha. Glad to see you all are back and ready to build. I checked out of social media myself but I'm glad you all are still posting other places as well.
Thank you so much. Now it is time to have fun
So glad you guys are back missed you both stav is looking slim
Thank you so much. Stairmaster is winning the battle lol
OMG I’ve been waiting for this super impatiently! Soooo stoked for you guys and the future content! Woot woot!
Thank you so much . We have been patient
Happy to see u guys again! Yaye more videos
We have a lot of great content coming. We took a break and now we get back into UA-cam world
Where is the other stav he’s looking good bro 😎 I’m still trying to lose some pounds
He’s trying to shed a .1 of his 1/4 mile times. It’s cheaper then carbon fiber lol
George, Stav,
Man great to see you guys back, looking forward to great videos. I sold my RS3 but, I will still absolutely be following this channel.
Appreciate the continued support, and you can always jump back into an RS down the line. Maybe VR6 swap as well? 👀😂💪
@@MalakaMotorSports my 21 Porsche 911 C4S (992) (Carrera 4S) finally came in. The RS3 however, I do miss already and is a car I would absolutely consider in the future.
Valve lapping is easy with new valves and seats that have been ground for 3 angles or what ever. You don’t need to vacuum test afterwards, you can physically see the grey lapped surface, just visually check that the lapped grey area continues 360 degrees with no gaps… it really is that easy.
I would hand lap with the wooded shaft and sucker tool, although the round rocker tool that fits in the drill and has a sucker on the end work ok, just let it slowly rotate in your hand as you go.
Just make sure you clean off all the grinding paste.
Absolutely it’s something I’ve done before wirh diesel heads. But still rather have a machine shop do it and double check their work. Couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve seen bad head work. But if we were in a pinch and needed to get it done absolutely
Good afternoon hey man I got a question I don't know that much about VW I'm getting into it now . I bought an r 32 engine from A Touareg 04 And I want to put the engine in a mk4 2.8 24v Can I use the oem transmission and the harness for the r 32 ?
I’m not sure exactly what needs to be done. Transmission should bolt up no problem. But the harness may be slightly different. Also timing and intake manifold mounting I believe is different.
-stav
The best 12 minute video. Can't wait to see the engine build
Bwahahaha, yea you can say we went way over that 😂
Man that engine looks sick
So many changes
Stav dropped a lot of pounds
And even more changes to come
Great vid guys 🙌🏻 Question... You talked about how the 5-cyl had DI and there were a bunch of wires you didn't use because the VR6 doesn't have DI, are you guys somehow adding DI with the new built motor, or... will the builit VR have it added in the future? TY 🍺
Hey Kevin the newer cars all have direct injection 2.0t, 2.5t and even the 3.6 vr6 has direct injection. This is what helps them run higher compression due to it being direct port. We are not going to be running direct port. The only direct port we will consider is “NITROUS”
@@MalakaMotorSports thanks for clarifying! 👍🏻
Absolutely amazing as usual guys I’m glad y’all back!!! Let’s go make that girl fly!!!💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥🔥 who’s the machinist you guys use in NY??
A birdie said FFERACING did the motor work they should have gave them a shot out
@@nyvinchenz9430 of course I should have know lol they did my clutch on my R and intercooler on my Tiguan wow
unreal.. now I have to have a cold shower... thanks guys so much
Bwahahahahah
I'm glad you're back, have missed you and your videos😊. It's going to be fun to follow with your project. Good luck😊🙌
Thank you brother!! And congrats on the new addition to your family 💪💪💪
@@MalakaMotorSports Thank you brother😊🙌
missed you gents thanks for the upload from :south africa
Thank you so much for the support
Lapping valves is super easy, and you can check the seal with a permanent marker around the sealing face of the valve and a lap tool...if youre not lapped in itll leave marker in the area thats not sealed. Not a huge process. Now cutting valves (5 angle job) requires a machine or a machine shop...just lapping is simple though
Maybe you’ll tell us towards the end of the video but you never mentioned what transmissions you’re considering going with if/when you choose to no longer use the DQ. Sequential? If not, what else are you thinking? I’m really excited to see the progress fellas. Cheers from from a fellow SoCal VR6 nut🍺
Let’s cross that bridge when we get there, first we’ll try our best to break the RS3 DQ500 transmission and some hearts along the way. Btw, thank you for the support and kind words ❤️
-George & Stav
Welcome back Bro’s
Feels good to be back. Thank you
Can’t wait to see the finished product you guys are the shit 🦾
Thank you so much for the support. We are excited also
is the Billet motor still going to be a 3.2? or did you go 3.6?
We will disclose details when we are close to that route. But this will
Be exciting either way
Love this build, no doubt that European countries ship fast, and they have great quality products at a better price sometimes.
Stav you look 10 years younger!! Well done!!
I’m now suing Justin Timberlake for the song “sexy back “
In 2021 I’m bringing sexy back lol
But thank you so much for the kind comments I have a lot of work to do. But feel way better appreciate it
-stav
This gon' be fun
A lot of fun. Stay tuned
Dude, you guys could make a vr > 2.7 shirt, I wouldn't be mad haha! Stoked you guys are back! It was awesome to chat at Socal Euro! As of this last weekend I sourced my oil leak, and got the passenger head in correct timing. Ran it last night trying to do break in cycles and it ran good till no cooling fans came on, electrical isn't much my thing.. gonna need Stav after he reroutes the ecu and the adds for fueling.. yknow, since we have till December 😂 🙌
Did you drain your coolant out? Maybe because you pulled the front end off?
@@MalakaMotorSports ya front end was off, I bled it off twice with no more bubbles near the throttle body, it ran for 15 mins or so before it spewed out the loose reservoir cap, but I'm at a loss for why the fans didn't kick on.. it didn't register as hot, but then again I should have had the vcds hooked up to monitor temp.. some believe I have an air pocket at the lower radiator temp sensor.. ive done 2 warm up and cool down cycles, I bet neighborhood cruising would burp it.. I also need to verify I spliced the correct oem fan wire per JHM's write up
@@bmorlok84 interesting I was just talking to someone about this today having a similar issue on their B5. Ended up being the lower temp sensor on the radiator hose.have you tried turning on the A/c . On that car the large jhm fan should automatically turn on with the a/c no matter the temp. But yes Definately check your wires. Also make sure to bleed system while running the heat to fully cycle. Just a few tips I’ve come across some pesky air pockets blessing my vr6 sometimes. Sometimes driving it around then parking it and opening cap after a few minutes did the trick.
@@MalakaMotorSports ya someone else mentioned turning the ac on too. I'll have to give that a go. I prefer the drive it around method too to burp it, but ik hesitant as its a full rebuild, so I want to get those break in cycles good too
Here is some fuel.... BHP = Brake Horsepower ;P
You are correct sir
Damn that build is going to be clean as f**k. Y'all run em on the track???
Quick question… why does the girdle not attach to both sides of the main caps on on cap #3 and #4?
Oil pump clearance, as the oil pump sits in that area.
@@MalakaMotorSports so you’re telling me no one has thought of a oil sump solution to make a girdle that attaches to both sides of the 3+4 main caps? Sounds like theres an untapped market there…
@@justindelvalle9179 there are other options but they space out the pump a bit further which is something we don’t want to mess with. Rather leave the oil pump system as is. Lot of big power and 7 second VR6 powered cars in Europe are using the same steel girdle we have opted to use, so we are confident this will help and work for us.
how do you code? is there a site that can help me or books, programs or what, please talk to me
Wooo hoooo, boys are back ❤️✌️
Hahahahah
that intro was hard!!!!
Hahahah thanks something different
love you guys ✊🏾
Thank you so much. But you sure you like George also? Lol
-stav
🤘
Vr6 the 🌎
Intro hilarious lol
Thank you so much we like to try to be funny. This surprisingly was George’s idea. And he’s not usually funny lol
-stav
@@MalakaMotorSports epic yall. Always a big fan
Haven’t watched the video yet, but I’m assuming it’s George’s new fitted Redsox hat.
Close lol
Welcome back 🤙
Feel good to be back ❤️
Nothing pushes me more than someone telling me it cannot be done. I love what you guys are doing don’t ever stop-
Can’t stop won’t stop
hello malakes from greece we love you.....
We love you more ❤️
YAYAAAAA. Love from New Zealand
Greetings and welcome 🙏
This is going to be awesome! 👍🏼
Thank you sir we are excited for the next step.
fastest rs3 incoming ‼️‼️ yall bout to show everyone how its done 💪💪💪💪
Absolutely
DAZA KILLER IMBOUND
:)
Finally!
I know right!?!? lol
Stav looking good 😳
Thank you kind sir
Secret to lapping valves is three things. One: Only rotate the valve 90-120 degrees from center without going in a circle. Two: Only put a dab of lapping compound in one spot. Three: Lift the valve and resume when you hear the grinding feel go way down. The lifting of the valve will draw the compound back into the center of the seat. If the valves are concentric with the seat, the compound will work it's way around 360 degrees from the dab. If you don't rotate beyond 120 from starting point CW or CCW then you will know if the seat is not concentric. There will be a spot that doesn't get lapped. If it's just a small amount, continue until the valve is lapped 360 degrees. If it's extreme, the seats are cut improperly.
KEY POINTS, YOU CANNOT HURT THE VALVE OR SEAT BY LAPPING THEM. IF YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE AN EQUAL THICKNESS LAP LINE ON THE SEAT, NO VACUUM TEST IS NECESSARY, IT WILL SEAL PERFECT 110%
Absolutely. I’ve actually done many dirt bike and Cummins engine cylinder heads. If we needed to lap valves fast for an event we could do it. But prefer being able to double check my work. And the first machine shop who did my motor in California did not lap valves correctly and all valves leaked. So even experts make mistakes. But we do double check everything
Good to see you back in business Malakas. I've been waiting for this build with extreme anticipation. I'm still considering a VR in the back of a 60s GM sports car. Corvair Monza mid engine de-stroked VR36/R36 with a DQ? or different trans. De-wookied with carbon unequal bellmouths inside a plenum and unequal length header tubes to have everything equidistant from the valves. Keeping the back seat and shoehorning it in between the rear axle and rear seat back (probably seat back/firewall moved forward 2-4 inches. Everything should fit.
Well that sounds like a very fun project similar to that Renault with a vr6. Very cool if you do start this project be sure to tag us on Instagram @malakamotorsports. Would love to follow your build