Run a test and see how you like it for that. The clear formula we sis here was soft and flexible, but did not have the tear strength of our translucent formulas.
I’ve been waiting for something like this to come along. I wonder if you could tint it with red to achieve a fresh blood effect that is not rigid, but also not too opaque.
Im impressed about all you made, now I have a question.. I like to make an arm ultra realistic. Meaning layer upon layer. So skin layer, fat layer, silicone muscle pieces and solid bone structure.. in this case it’s not the material component (you have plenty videos of that) but more about when to place how. Just like you used cotton to bond at a particular moment. How would I make that? Could you do a video about that? That would be awesome!
This is EXTREMELY INTERESTING!!! I very much would love to see just how far you can push it before it fails. And, it would be interesting to compare it to Platsil 10 and/or Platsil 25, both also deadened to their respective maximums. It would seem that beyond being clearer than these two Platsils, it would also result in a much more extended volume. I excitedly look forward to your next experiments with this!!! 😃😃😃
@@brickintheyard Yes, I know. Both the Platsil silicones are cloudy/white, at best. And, the "Faux 2 0" is "water clear". But, can the "Faux 2 0" be deadened with the "Prosthetic Additive 1" as much as the Plastil silicones? That was my point.
Is there a reliable way of gradating from transparent to color? For example, making a model hand that is fleshtone from the wrist, but gradually becomes transparent towards the fingers.
This can be accomplished in a few different ways. 1. This would involve multiple pours, each with a lessening or greater translucency. To help hide the transition between each layer, you will need to roll the mould at a slight angle, extending the silicone up the side of the mould. In essence, you would be extending the "Miniscus layer" around the edges of the casting. Let cure, and repeat with the next layer to progress the transition. 2. "Intrinsically" paint the transition into the mould, before casting the silicone solid, behind it. To do this, start by painting a thin "skin" of the silicone into the mould negative. Then proceed to paint in the transition into the mould, make sure you use ONLY silicone-compatible paints or pigments. Finally, back the painting process with more silicone. 3. "Extrinsically" paint the transition on the outside of the casting. This would also be the weakest method in durability. 4. A combination of all three proposed methods. This would provide the best possible results of all, and it would allow for each technique to compensate for any discrepancies of the other techniques.
I've searched high and low for a clear silicone that's body safe, this could be just what I'm looking for 🙌
Run a test and see how you like it for that. The clear formula we sis here was soft and flexible, but did not have the tear strength of our translucent formulas.
I’ve been waiting for something like this to come along. I wonder if you could tint it with red to achieve a fresh blood effect that is not rigid, but also not too opaque.
You could definitely add some red silicone pigment to color it.
Oh, that’s a much bigger ratio than I would have expected! Can your shore O-25 handle that much deadener? What would even happen to it at that amount?
This is not Deadener, but it produces a similar result in cured silicone.
Great information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
Im impressed about all you made, now I have a question.. I like to make an arm ultra realistic. Meaning layer upon layer. So skin layer, fat layer, silicone muscle pieces and solid bone structure.. in this case it’s not the material component (you have plenty videos of that) but more about when to place how. Just like you used cotton to bond at a particular moment. How would I make that? Could you do a video about that? That would be awesome!
The timing of layers will depend on the gel time and working time of the silicone formula used.
This is EXTREMELY INTERESTING!!! I very much would love to see just how far you can push it before it fails. And, it would be interesting to compare it to Platsil 10 and/or Platsil 25, both also deadened to their respective maximums. It would seem that beyond being clearer than these two Platsils, it would also result in a much more extended volume. I excitedly look forward to your next experiments with this!!! 😃😃😃
It won't make the PlatSil Gels clear, just soften them.
@@brickintheyard Yes, I know. Both the Platsil silicones are cloudy/white, at best. And, the "Faux 2 0" is "water clear". But, can the "Faux 2 0" be deadened with the "Prosthetic Additive 1" as much as the Plastil silicones? That was my point.
I'll see how far I can push this. I did another test with a ratio of 1A:1B:6PA1 and it still cured but was a little softer.
Is there a reliable way of gradating from transparent to color? For example, making a model hand that is fleshtone from the wrist, but gradually becomes transparent towards the fingers.
Adding silicone pigment would be the only way I can think of to control the clarity.
This can be accomplished in a few different ways. 1. This would involve multiple pours, each with a lessening or greater translucency. To help hide the transition between each layer, you will need to roll the mould at a slight angle, extending the silicone up the side of the mould. In essence, you would be extending the "Miniscus layer" around the edges of the casting. Let cure, and repeat with the next layer to progress the transition. 2. "Intrinsically" paint the transition into the mould, before casting the silicone solid, behind it. To do this, start by painting a thin "skin" of the silicone into the mould negative. Then proceed to paint in the transition into the mould, make sure you use ONLY silicone-compatible paints or pigments. Finally, back the painting process with more silicone. 3. "Extrinsically" paint the transition on the outside of the casting. This would also be the weakest method in durability. 4. A combination of all three proposed methods. This would provide the best possible results of all, and it would allow for each technique to compensate for any discrepancies of the other techniques.