Finally, good instructions on how to disasemble a 1942 Mountain stove. I've had a really nice one that needs the fount to be resealed with some Coswell sealer.
I have and love the m1942 stove. I have one from 1943 Aladdin. Several 1944 Aladdin and many 1946 preway and Coleman and Aladdin. I have several that I haven’t touched since I got them. I did clean and disassemble well over a dozen of them and they are very simple and work great! I prefer them over the m1950 because of the positive shut off. The m1950 is good if you change that little donut in the valve to a viton one but if not they will leak. I’ve had new unfired m1950 seem good but after a couple uses they started to leak or not want to shut off. Great to see you getting into these older stoves.
Nice stove! A couple of points. The vaporizer/generator has a rolled brass screen that helps transfer heat to the fuel and aids in vaporization, The cleaning need runs through the center of the rolled up screen. THAT SCREEN NEEDS TO BE CLEANED. The good news is, they clean up extremely easily. If you have problems getting the screen out, remove the gas tip and heat the vaporizer with at torch. It will start smoking and burning out the carbon and varnish that have accumulated. Once the flames and smoke stop, immediately dunk it in cold water. You may have to repeat this a couple of times. Once you get it out, unroll the screen and heat it from end to end with a torch and burn off whatever remains. The ash left over will easily scrub off with a toothbrush or small wire detail brush. Use a bore brush to get the rest of the crap out of the vaporizer tube. Be careful and roll The screen around the cleaning needle. Once rolled, hold on the the screen and pull the needle out and insert the screen back into the vaporizer tube. Clean and install the gas tip and reassemble. It will preheat and start much easier. Do NOT use the cleaning needle to shut the stove down. This will leave liquid fuel in the vaporizer and cause problems down the road. To shut it down, use the cleaning lever a few times and return it to the run/up position and close the valve and let the remaining fuel burn off. KEEP AN EYE ON THE PUMP when running. The pips are notorious for leaking and filling the pump tube with fuel. I'm guessing that is what led to the previous explosive disaster. If you are messing with these indoors, keep a large stock pot with a lid and some tongs or welding gloves handy. If you have another exciting event toss the whole thing into the stock pot and put the lid on it and take it outside. Another option is to do your work on a large cookie sheet and have a pot nearby to invert and cover it. White gas/gasoline is no joke. Thing can get really bad, really fast.
Another great informative and educating video Ernie,thanks mate. Very happy you came thru unscathed from the first MOD 1942 u came across. Nice to see u got back in the saddle and got the courage to get a win with this one! Respect. I have two and i'm sourcing parts now. After listening to your experience i will b dismantling b4 firing !! A few guys had problems with fuel escaping from the toggle of the cleaning needle lever. This was fixed with graphite tape of a string kind packed and wrapped around the the thread of nut then wound on, yours didn't,but sealed perfectly. What did i miss? Thanks for your time Murray.
Hay dude. Really like your videos. I faund a M1942 on a marketplace, by the research I've foud your videos, they helped me a lot by the disassembly of mine, thank you for that. I've done it nearly the same as you, disassembled it completely, except I,ve bent and then broke the cleaning neadle at the base, I have a replacement neadle but can't get the old out. The stoves and especially the parts for it a pretty rear in my homeland, ex-Yugoslavia(easter Europe). So, now i,am thinkink of trying to somehow get the old out or drill and tap it again. Searching for tips, any help is welcome
Very cool! I've got 2 of them, both from the camping/survival gear of WW2 vets. I didn't catch if you said yours came with the cooking pot/carrying case. I can't recommend using the pot for cooking, as mine strongly smell of gasoline from spills inside.
That's awesome work there Ernie! I haveva few Colman lanterns that really need to be restored. I don't know any numbers or models but it looks to be the same as the others .
Hi Ernie! Great work as always! Have you ever tried E85 and/or 100% pure ethanol in a gasoline/white gas stove? Any funny smells or soot or anything else odd? Is there a video? Very curious about a "flex stove"... 😉
Ethanol burns poorly in a stove like this because the fuel to air ratio is different. One needs to use a larger orifice for the jet to get the same output power, or to mix with less air to get the right ratio but less power output. Gasoline works in these fine but gasoline gets old and varnishes if not burned out completely, and ruins the stove short of a full rebuild. It also has some alcohol in it which holds onto water and will rust the tank out if it isn't brass like the alcohol marine stoves usually were.
I'm talking caught fire, I took it outside to the driveway and walked away. Pressure built, and it exploded. Fireball...tank blew completely apart at the solder joint into two pieces. Pity the camera was not rolling!
Finally, good instructions on how to disasemble a 1942 Mountain stove. I've had a really nice one that needs the fount to be resealed with some Coswell sealer.
Thanks Dr. Ernie for reviewing this old stove. It is so "Classic" looking.
Thank you, I'm just trying to learn how to rebuild old stoves so I'm glad you have this channel. I watch both of your channels and love the education.
I have and love the m1942 stove. I have one from 1943 Aladdin. Several 1944 Aladdin and many 1946 preway and Coleman and Aladdin. I have several that I haven’t touched since I got them. I did clean and disassemble well over a dozen of them and they are very simple and work great! I prefer them over the m1950 because of the positive shut off. The m1950 is good if you change that little donut in the valve to a viton one but if not they will leak. I’ve had new unfired m1950 seem good but after a couple uses they started to leak or not want to shut off. Great to see you getting into these older stoves.
Thanks for the vidéo, Dr. Stove !
It looks very frustrating to manage to get that nice blue flame ! Patience is keyword !
A buddy of mine recently gave me one of these, it took me a little while to figure out the disassembly as well. Lol
Nice stove! A couple of points. The vaporizer/generator has a rolled brass screen that helps transfer heat to the fuel and aids in vaporization, The cleaning need runs through the center of the rolled up screen. THAT SCREEN NEEDS TO BE CLEANED. The good news is, they clean up extremely easily. If you have problems getting the screen out, remove the gas tip and heat the vaporizer with at torch. It will start smoking and burning out the carbon and varnish that have accumulated. Once the flames and smoke stop, immediately dunk it in cold water. You may have to repeat this a couple of times. Once you get it out, unroll the screen and heat it from end to end with a torch and burn off whatever remains. The ash left over will easily scrub off with a toothbrush or small wire detail brush. Use a bore brush to get the rest of the crap out of the vaporizer tube. Be careful and roll The screen around the cleaning needle. Once rolled, hold on the the screen and pull the needle out and insert the screen back into the vaporizer tube. Clean and install the gas tip and reassemble. It will preheat and start much easier.
Do NOT use the cleaning needle to shut the stove down. This will leave liquid fuel in the vaporizer and cause problems down the road. To shut it down, use the cleaning lever a few times and return it to the run/up position and close the valve and let the remaining fuel burn off.
KEEP AN EYE ON THE PUMP when running. The pips are notorious for leaking and filling the pump tube with fuel. I'm guessing that is what led to the previous explosive disaster. If you are messing with these indoors, keep a large stock pot with a lid and some tongs or welding gloves handy. If you have another exciting event toss the whole thing into the stock pot and put the lid on it and take it outside. Another option is to do your work on a large cookie sheet and have a pot nearby to invert and cover it. White gas/gasoline is no joke. Thing can get really bad, really fast.
Another great informative and educating video Ernie,thanks mate. Very happy you came thru unscathed from the first MOD 1942 u came across.
Nice to see u got back in the saddle and got the courage to get a win with this one! Respect. I have two and i'm sourcing parts now. After listening to your experience i will b dismantling b4 firing !! A few guys had problems with fuel escaping from the toggle of the cleaning needle lever. This was fixed with graphite tape of a string kind packed and wrapped around the the thread of nut then wound on, yours didn't,but sealed perfectly. What did i miss?
Thanks for your time
Murray.
Hay dude.
Really like your videos.
I faund a M1942 on a marketplace, by the research I've foud your videos, they helped me a lot by the disassembly of mine, thank you for that.
I've done it nearly the same as you, disassembled it completely, except I,ve bent and then broke the cleaning neadle at the base, I have a replacement neadle but can't get the old out.
The stoves and especially the parts for it a pretty rear in my homeland, ex-Yugoslavia(easter Europe).
So, now i,am thinkink of trying to somehow get the old out or drill and tap it again.
Searching for tips, any help is welcome
I put a carbon fiber ring in the preheat cup when I do those. It really helps with preheat because you can add more fuel.
Very cool! I've got 2 of them, both from the camping/survival gear of WW2 vets. I didn't catch if you said yours came with the cooking pot/carrying case. I can't recommend using the pot for cooking, as mine strongly smell of gasoline from spills inside.
That's awesome work there Ernie! I haveva few Colman lanterns that really need to be restored. I don't know any numbers or models but it looks to be the same as the others .
You need a 530 great kits
Hi Ernie!
Great work as always!
Have you ever tried E85 and/or 100% pure ethanol in a gasoline/white gas stove? Any funny smells or soot or anything else odd? Is there a video? Very curious about a "flex stove"... 😉
Ethanol burns poorly in a stove like this because the fuel to air ratio is different. One needs to use a larger orifice for the jet to get the same output power, or to mix with less air to get the right ratio but less power output. Gasoline works in these fine but gasoline gets old and varnishes if not burned out completely, and ruins the stove short of a full rebuild. It also has some alcohol in it which holds onto water and will rust the tank out if it isn't brass like the alcohol marine stoves usually were.
When you say blew up. Are we talking actual explosion or just tank caught on fire and burned the whole thing up?
I'm talking caught fire, I took it outside to the driveway and walked away. Pressure built, and it exploded. Fireball...tank blew completely apart at the solder joint into two pieces. Pity the camera was not rolling!
@@paleomakermd7358 glad no one was hurt. Stay safe.
Why do my pips leak ? But not squeak ?
My pips dont seal and it lets fuel thru the pump ... we put it away ... bearmer ...
Has it any kind of a spare parts inside of a tube of the pump?