Glad you went with the copper nickel brake lines, plain copper lines are not safe and generally illegal on road cars, copper lines have a bust pressure of around 6000psi but quickly work harden, making them become brittle and fail. Copper Nickle has a bust pressure 17,000psi and doesn't have the work hardening issues and has great corrosion resistance.
The copper ones feel very flimsy and I didn’t want to use that. The only reason I got it wast initial flare tool didn’t work with anything so I wanted to test something softer…also didn’t work!
Sometimes it takes a few times to get flared lines right, I always buy double the amount I think I need lol - that flare tool is the way to go if you are making a lot of lines and if you wanna use steel - but copper nickel is great, I made brake lines no prob. AN6 fuel lines are fine, that’s 3/8 and remember that’s a step up from the 5/16 (AN5) lines most cars use without a prob. AN8 is overkill unless you are running multiple pumps or a lot of ethanol for way more hp. And I have also used the compression fittings from hardlines to the AN lines without a problem, as well. Love watching you go all out with the details, very cool 😎
Brake lines and fuel lines looks gorgeous man.If you can add the tools list and shop links that works great for you or happy to use, I believe it will be very useful for the friends who want to do the same job themselfs in their garage . 😊👍
Yes - more brackets, line spacers and clamps. It looks like you have an opportunity to make/print a cover for the exit point of the fuel lines on the underside of the car, to protect the lines from the chafing. Would that make sense?
Putting ‘pig tails’ coils in solid lines is good for taking out vibrations and adding flexibility. .. coil the coils horizontally not vertically so they don’t form a air trap 👍
You should always do a ‘I forgot the fitting’ count when making solid brake lines…. We all do it and its surprisingly easy to ‘forget’ multiple times 😂
Late to comment but after just having watched your episode on the LSD and now watching this, I'm curious to see how much individual rear wheel brake pressure control you will actually require from the 4 channel ABS (as well as TC I assume) since the LSD will basically keep both rear wheels spinning at the same speed both when accelerating and braking (hard). Tremendous effort and very convincing results you have achieved in the mean time. I enjoy watching this!
Progress is looking good! Love the engineering on the strut bar. ABS system is coming along nicely as well. I too went for the same copper/nickel lines and really like the result. Fuel system is looking good, but have heard of some issues with the compression flare system on pressurized lines. Could honestly be fine, but I'd be a bit weary of those leaking or coming off with use. Especially if the compression ring fails to form fully to the hard line. On my build, I opted to take off the factory fuel line and welded/brazed the proper fittings. Just a thought as it's most likely easier to do this now when the lines are free of fuel. In either case, keep up the great work!
You do such nice work. Use teflon AN lines instead, they are 100% vapor proof so the car wont stink of fuel. They also better for ethanol and more heat resistance.
@@islandworks Yes. A bit harder to work with, stiffer. Now that you are a hard line master :) and have AN fittings both at the tank and engine, you could use aluminum hard line AN pipes all the way to. Saves a little bit of weight!! :)
Insulate the fuel lines under the oil tank, it’s surprising how quickly the fuel gets very hot because of the return cycling just from the fuel pump heat let alone the engine or other heat sources.
I would do everything possible to keep fuel cold. Hot fuel heats your airfuel mixture and it will knock easier and have less oxygen in it = way less power, way less duration, way less compression.
I see what you're saying and the whole oil tank in the frunk will have an impact on this as the compartment will be hotter than what it normally is. I'll be sure to measure this and perhaps put a fuel temp sensor in to get better control.
@@islandworks agreed. :) ps. would be great to build and design cars together. I have a bit similar project, a BMW Clownshoe in Finland, now mostly done from carbon fiber and lightest in the world. I only like to do it to the fast curvy roads, and not for track only.
Hi Jonas, I assume you are using the DIN mushroom flare towards your BOSCH (German) ABS? Are you 110% certain that you are going to use the OP.2 on the tool, when forming the DIN flare? And not only use the OP.1 4.75 DIN forming operation? I am working on a Porsche 944, having recently bought the exact same tool you are using. From Biltema. And I am a bit uncertain. Having compared the flare using only OP.1 4.75 DIN with the original factory brake lines, I believe the mushroom shape is identical using only the OP.1. Omitting step 2. You seem like one of the most thorough builders out there. So I assume you have done your research. But I figured I''d just comment. In case there is an issue.
Great comment and no I’m not 100% sure on this. The transfer piece is designed with the same bottom angle so whatever is correct it would need to be so in both ends. I hope what I’ve done is the correct method and happy to hear any other input!
@@islandworks The yellow 3/16 OP1 is the first operation when making SAE double flares. Sigmund is correct, just use the green 4.75 OP1 which is the metric bubble flare. You'll notice on the die you are using to hold the like there are two sides. The tapered side is for double flares, the flat side is for bubble/DIN flare. 3/16 and 4.75mm line are the same size but they label it like that to differentiate between SAE and metric.
That makes sense, now I need to figure out if I need to redo it. I’m thinking the second operation will not interfere with the seal surface on the DIN holes. I’ll know once I get oil in there…
I wonder if you may need some heat shielding on the oil tank to keep the heat away from the fuel lines. I know you said the lines can take the heat and that the fuel flow shouldn't be affected by the heat, but I wonder if the heat after a track session would cause vapor lock since the fuel isn't flowing while parked.
I will definitely put some heat shielding in that particular area to do what is possible to keep it away from direct radiation. As you say it's likely the most significant when the car is standing still after a session...
I took the closes inch one I could find and then drilled it out and changed the clamp ring to 10mm. I believe there are other couplings available that don't need modification...
thanks jonas @@islandworks , but where did you buy? I want to avoid cheap china stuff in my car. I think about 11mm PTFE lines only with reusable fittings, but am not sure where to buy...
I’ll bring the plastic version to a mate and see if it does. If so I might add it to the homepage/webshop if there is any interest. Send me a mail and I get you the support piece for the fuel hoses Nick!
Just a comment for the youtube algos. Such educational, detailed and well presented material deserves a much wider audience IMO.
Agree. Tavarish, Matt Armstrong etc. fades in comparison.. This is epic!
Glad you went with the copper nickel brake lines, plain copper lines are not safe and generally illegal on road cars, copper lines have a bust pressure of around 6000psi but quickly work harden, making them become brittle and fail. Copper Nickle has a bust pressure 17,000psi and doesn't have the work hardening issues and has great corrosion resistance.
The copper ones feel very flimsy and I didn’t want to use that. The only reason I got it wast initial flare tool didn’t work with anything so I wanted to test something softer…also didn’t work!
Sometimes it takes a few times to get flared lines right, I always buy double the amount I think I need lol - that flare tool is the way to go if you are making a lot of lines and if you wanna use steel - but copper nickel is great, I made brake lines no prob. AN6 fuel lines are fine, that’s 3/8 and remember that’s a step up from the 5/16 (AN5) lines most cars use without a prob. AN8 is overkill unless you are running multiple pumps or a lot of ethanol for way more hp. And I have also used the compression fittings from hardlines to the AN lines without a problem, as well. Love watching you go all out with the details, very cool 😎
Imwas just thinking you need to 3D print a pipe spacer / support bracket and.. bingo you were one step (weeks) a head of me 👍
Brake lines and fuel lines looks gorgeous man.If you can add the tools list and shop links that works great for you or happy to use, I believe it will be very useful for the friends who want to do the same job themselfs in their garage . 😊👍
Let me put a few lines down in the description!
@@islandworks thanks for your concern man i appreciate you. 🤗👏
Good job, im here from 1st video, I think on summer time we will see this beast in the race track! 💪
Thanks for hanging in there! Summer time it will happen!
Yes - more brackets, line spacers and clamps. It looks like you have an opportunity to make/print a cover for the exit point of the fuel lines on the underside of the car, to protect the lines from the chafing. Would that make sense?
Bravo! It's really an excellent job!
Great work
Putting ‘pig tails’ coils in solid lines is good for taking out vibrations and adding flexibility. .. coil the coils horizontally not vertically so they don’t form a air trap 👍
beautiful work as usual
Thanks!
Complimenti
You should always do a ‘I forgot the fitting’ count when making solid brake lines…. We all do it and its surprisingly easy to ‘forget’ multiple times 😂
How do I do one of those 🤣?
Great attention to details again. Thank you for the series, building my track day S15 and your channel is great motivation to keep going.
Late to comment but after just having watched your episode on the LSD and now watching this, I'm curious to see how much individual rear wheel brake pressure control you will actually require from the 4 channel ABS (as well as TC I assume) since the LSD will basically keep both rear wheels spinning at the same speed both when accelerating and braking (hard).
Tremendous effort and very convincing results you have achieved in the mean time. I enjoy watching this!
Progress is looking good! Love the engineering on the strut bar. ABS system is coming along nicely as well. I too went for the same copper/nickel lines and really like the result.
Fuel system is looking good, but have heard of some issues with the compression flare system on pressurized lines. Could honestly be fine, but I'd be a bit weary of those leaking or coming off with use. Especially if the compression ring fails to form fully to the hard line. On my build, I opted to take off the factory fuel line and welded/brazed the proper fittings. Just a thought as it's most likely easier to do this now when the lines are free of fuel. In either case, keep up the great work!
You do such nice work. Use teflon AN lines instead, they are 100% vapor proof so the car wont stink of fuel. They also better for ethanol and more heat resistance.
Is that the PTFE version?
@@islandworks Yes. A bit harder to work with, stiffer. Now that you are a hard line master :) and have AN fittings both at the tank and engine, you could use aluminum hard line AN pipes all the way to. Saves a little bit of weight!! :)
I’ve been thinking to use hard lines for the oil lines. Looking forward to learning that!
Excellent content, as usual. I can't wait to see it on the road, and the big smile on your/our face/s. :)
Thanks for sharing.
Best.
Always great to see a new episode. 👍👍
Quality Job as always
11:54 Keeping a straight face.
Hahaha, Look at my spaceship straightening the pipe..😜
Insulate the fuel lines under the oil tank, it’s surprising how quickly the fuel gets very hot because of the return cycling just from the fuel pump heat let alone the engine or other heat sources.
That’s good advice. I’ll see if I can fit a temp sensor there to make sure I keep it under control
Excellent job.
Clean Job.
👍
would look better with the strut brace mount used the 4 points imo
Nice !
Hate doing brake lines. I was thinking if you would put the fitting too close to the bend.. been there done that 😂
I would do everything possible to keep fuel cold. Hot fuel heats your airfuel mixture and it will knock easier and have less oxygen in it = way less power, way less duration, way less compression.
I see what you're saying and the whole oil tank in the frunk will have an impact on this as the compartment will be hotter than what it normally is. I'll be sure to measure this and perhaps put a fuel temp sensor in to get better control.
@@islandworks coild there be solution to make heat deflecting lightweight walls around it, and vent through bonnet the heat?
I think maybe a combination of ventilation and heat shielding. Somehow the heat cannot stay in there!
@@islandworks agreed. :) ps. would be great to build and design cars together. I have a bit similar project, a BMW Clownshoe in Finland, now mostly done from carbon fiber and lightest in the world. I only like to do it to the fast curvy roads, and not for track only.
Hi Jonas,
I assume you are using the DIN mushroom flare towards your BOSCH (German) ABS? Are you 110% certain that you are going to use the OP.2 on the tool, when forming the DIN flare? And not only use the OP.1 4.75 DIN forming operation?
I am working on a Porsche 944, having recently bought the exact same tool you are using. From Biltema. And I am a bit uncertain. Having compared the flare using only OP.1 4.75 DIN with the original factory brake lines, I believe the mushroom shape is identical using only the OP.1. Omitting step 2.
You seem like one of the most thorough builders out there. So I assume you have done your research. But I figured I''d just comment. In case there is an issue.
Great comment and no I’m not 100% sure on this. The transfer piece is designed with the same bottom angle so whatever is correct it would need to be so in both ends.
I hope what I’ve done is the correct method and happy to hear any other input!
@@islandworks The yellow 3/16 OP1 is the first operation when making SAE double flares. Sigmund is correct, just use the green 4.75 OP1 which is the metric bubble flare. You'll notice on the die you are using to hold the like there are two sides. The tapered side is for double flares, the flat side is for bubble/DIN flare. 3/16 and 4.75mm line are the same size but they label it like that to differentiate between SAE and metric.
That makes sense, now I need to figure out if I need to redo it.
I’m thinking the second operation will not interfere with the seal surface on the DIN holes.
I’ll know once I get oil in there…
I wonder if you may need some heat shielding on the oil tank to keep the heat away from the fuel lines. I know you said the lines can take the heat and that the fuel flow shouldn't be affected by the heat, but I wonder if the heat after a track session would cause vapor lock since the fuel isn't flowing while parked.
I will definitely put some heat shielding in that particular area to do what is possible to keep it away from direct radiation. As you say it's likely the most significant when the car is standing still after a session...
Hi Peter, I have some question about your ABS system. What kind of ABS system Are you using? And what kind of ABS sensor On the knuckle?
Nice work and video - again :-) What will you use for gas tank ventilation?
I plan to just run a hose with a swan neck on it.
Where did you buy the brake pressure and switch bulkhead?
It’s my own design. It’s in our webshop IslandWorks.one
Hey Jonas, which fitting did you use to go from AN6 to the (rigid) standard fuel line? Thanks a lot , Matthias
I took the closes inch one I could find and then drilled it out and changed the clamp ring to 10mm. I believe there are other couplings available that don't need modification...
thanks jonas @@islandworks , but where did you buy? I want to avoid cheap china stuff in my car. I think about 11mm PTFE lines only with reusable fittings, but am not sure where to buy...
Do you think your strut brace design would clear the stock tank? Any plans to have that file for the support pieces on your website?
I’ll bring the plastic version to a mate and see if it does. If so I might add it to the homepage/webshop if there is any interest.
Send me a mail and I get you the support piece for the fuel hoses Nick!