Very good video, particularly for showing the changes in the copper color as heating continued. Question: will you counter-enamel the other side of the piece?
As always - a great presentation thanks - Am new to enamelling and at this stage haven't taken the dive into Kiln firing - although at my night classes we use kilns. I have a fairly decent torch firing setup and make the most of yours and other educational videos on You Tube. - Thanks...
Your vids are very professional compared to some wannabe glass artists out there. Thx for that. Lots of useful tech info going on here instead of just "bullshit"..
hello! do you sell the copper cleaner and the glue? or can I use some other common cleaner and glue? I already have the enamel and the other tools including kiln bought from you. thanks
Just guessing - I've never played with this at all - but faster, no need of a kiln, no wasted heat for a one minute job, and you can monitor the proces very well.?
Hi Ricky, Thank you for your presentation. Regarding the atomizer, I wonder if I can use any glue which are water base? And then dilute it and use it? Gum Arabic is what I am thinking to use for this purposes.... Any comment would be appreciate! Thanks!
Great video. You stated that you removed the smaller particles from the enamel. Do you use a finer sieve like a 120 grit and just keep what's left in the bowl?
Such a beautiful technique! Since I've already made the investment, I'm wondering if glycerine based heat embossing fluid would work in place of the enamel adhesive. It's used with a heat gun for melting plastic/resin enamel, so it seems like the embossing fluid I have would work for glass enameling as an adhesive. Please advise . . .
Hey, +boxer3086! Our Jewelry Tech Team recommends you try it on a sample piece to see how it performs. Unfortunately, we don’t have any info on it to see if it would burn off cleanly or not. Feel free to reach out to our Jewelry Tech Team if you have questions! You can reach them at 800-545-6566.
Hi, Lynnae! Thanks for reaching out :) Here we're using the Smith® Little Torch™ Propane and Oxygen System (item #500076) www.riogrande.com/Product/500076 Let us know if we can provide you with any more information!
Thank you. I went ahead and set up my Little Smith with the propane and oxygen as I heard from someone that this was the industry standard. I found that using the #7 tip I didn't heat my larger piece evenly enough and popped off part of the enamel. It's a learning experience! I used the 1030 white as an under coat for transparent and it didn't melt quite right. It didn't flow as it should have. I'm finding problems with the black underglaze they sent as an extra in my last order. I tried grinding it down farther and will try it again. I painted it on while it was still wet and it seemed to be OK. I was getting lumps and not complete melting. I'm learning and not quite so frustrated. So thankful for your videos!
Hey, Lynnae! Keep at it, practice makes perfect :) Remember that our Jewelry Tech Team is always more than happy to help you with your processes! Give them a call at 800-545-6566 and they'd love to talk to you about this. Have a wonderful day :)
I am thinking of trying enamelling on cast bronze flowers, so much thicker and larger than your folded copper, do you think this would work? Perhaps having to heat from all round, with a bigger torch, and probably not possible to only heat up from below like you showed. Have you tried enamel on bronze? Thank you.. Dido
Love your videos, very helpful. Is it truly necessary to enamel the backside of your copper? What if you use something like Scalex to coat the back? Also what if I wanted to paint my enamel on with a brush, what would I use as a liquid medium for the powder enamel? Thanks so much for all the great information!
the applicable term is "thermal expansion". a thin layer of enamel on one side of copper will usually bond without too much of a problem. thicker than one thin layer will require "counter enamel". this is enamel on the back of the piece. when the copper piece is heated it expands, and the melted layer of glass expands with it. upon cooling, the copper wants to shrink, but the enamel layer doesn't. this sets up a stress or tension. the thicker the layer of enamel on the front, the more tension, and at this point the enamel, being more fragile than the copper will crack or chip off. firing enamel onto the back balances the stress and keeps the copper from shrinking, lessening the tension. scale on the back of the copper would simply flake off after it is fired. regarding painting, you could use water if on a flat surface or a mixture of water and klyrfyre on a curved surface. experiment with the water/glue proportion to see what gives you the results you want.
Is using the atomizer over a paint brush better? Also, is the atomizer something like an aerosol where it depletes and must be replaced? Always great videos--thanks Rio, thanks Ricky!
Hi k per! Thanks for watching! We asked our Jewelry Tech Team about your question. They think the atomizer is better than a brush. The atomizer achieves an even mist of adhesive on the surface when it's sprayed. This gives an even surface when applying the enamel. Brush strokes could bulk up on the strokes leaving hills and valleys. This surface would be uneven. And, yes, it must be replaced when the air is gone. Hope this helps!
+arshad nfs i use klyrfyre mixed with water when spraying glue prior to sifting. i use less klyrefyre if using transparents as it can lead to cloudiness if too strong. also depends on the angle of the vertical. the more vertical, the stronger your glue mixture needs to be. try different proportions to see what works for YOU. don't rely on what someone tells you to do. each project is different.
Hi there - You can use dish soap! The key is to make sure to rinse off all of the soap. If there is oxidation to be removed you could use a copper cleaner like Blitz copper cleaner but make sure you wash it with soap and water to remove any polish residue. Hope this is helpful!
Oh i didn't think that you could torch fire cloissone.. I guess it makes sense since you just need the temperature to get to a certain level before the sand will melt. That's more affordable than buying a kiln for sure!
Hey again, +fercarcas ! We don’t like to say that someone can’t do something because if you work hard enough with experimentation and use the correct materials most anything can be done. For fold forming, our Jewelry Tech Team doesn't think aluminum will lend itself to it because of brittleness. There might be an alloy out there that is ductile enough but we are not aware of any. As far as enameling, enamels we sell are fired at 1500°F aluminum melts around 1250°F There might be a higher melting point aluminum alloy or a lower melting point enamel but we do not know of it. Hope this helps.
Hi sheroncouch1, ricky is using the Smith Little torch with oxy/propane. Here is a link to the ones we carry. www.riogrande.com/Search/little-torch I hope this is of some help. Thank you, Mark N Tech
Karen Harries when i am making these videos I am trying to show lots of ways of working. I like to fire in a kiln as it gives me more control. Torch firing is more challenging in that the flame will discolor the enamel, but there is an immediacy because you can see it changing so easily, and YOU are controlling the flame and heat application. I can make cloisonné pieces with a torch, or quick, loose overtired pieces in a kiln. there isn't a right way to do any of this.
Karen Harries when i am making these videos I am trying to show lots of ways of working. I like to fire in a kiln as it gives me more control. Torch firing is more challenging in that the flame will discolor the enamel, but there is an immediacy because you can see it changing so easily, and YOU are controlling the flame and heat application. I can make cloisonné pieces with a torch, or quick, loose overtired pieces in a kiln. there isn't a right way to do any of this.
Love that you summarize at the end. Shows you are a good teacher. Helps us remember
Very good video, particularly for showing the changes in the copper color as heating continued. Question: will you counter-enamel the other side of the piece?
Very nice presentation
As always - a great presentation thanks - Am new to enamelling and at this stage haven't taken the dive into Kiln firing - although at my night classes we use kilns. I have a fairly decent torch firing setup and make the most of yours and other educational videos on You Tube. - Thanks...
You're welcome! Glad you're finding this videos to be helpful.
I don't see you counter-enameling? What's your feeling on it, What gauge are you using in your video? Nice quick and informative video.
This video is so old that I don’t know if you are still there. What is the name of the cooper and the glue that you used? Thanks 😊
Your vids are very professional compared to some wannabe glass artists out there. Thx for that. Lots of useful tech info going on here instead of just "bullshit"..
thank you. the video department at Rio Grande is incredible to work with.
great technique, thanks Ricky
hello! do you sell the copper cleaner and the glue? or can I use some other common cleaner and glue? I already have the enamel and the other tools including kiln bought from you. thanks
What a great video. I was just wondering, why torch fire vs kiln fire? Is there a reason and what difference does it make? Thanks!!!
Just guessing - I've never played with this at all - but faster, no need of a kiln, no wasted heat for a one minute job, and you can monitor the proces very well.?
GREAT Demo. Thank you.
is it the same enamel that you can also use on Silver ???
yesd
Interesting very . Thank you .
Hi Ricky, Thank you for your presentation. Regarding the atomizer, I wonder if I can use any glue which are water base? And then dilute it and use it? Gum Arabic is what I am thinking to use for this purposes.... Any comment would be appreciate! Thanks!
Thanks Ricky
Can you torch enamel both sides and how?
Great video. You stated that you removed the smaller particles from the enamel. Do you use a finer sieve like a 120 grit and just keep what's left in the bowl?
Frank Faubert yes. you can purchase a complete set of sifting screens at Rio Grande.
Frank Faubert yes. you can purchase a complete set of sifting screens at Rio Grande.
Such a beautiful technique! Since I've already made the investment, I'm wondering if glycerine based heat embossing fluid would work in place of the enamel adhesive. It's used with a heat gun for melting plastic/resin enamel, so it seems like the embossing fluid I have would work for glass enameling as an adhesive. Please advise . . .
Hey, +boxer3086! Our Jewelry Tech Team recommends you try it on a sample piece to see how it performs. Unfortunately, we don’t have any info on it to see if it would burn off cleanly or not. Feel free to reach out to our Jewelry Tech Team if you have questions! You can reach them at 800-545-6566.
OK, thanks. I'll be sure to try on a scrap first. Appreciate your quick response!
Thank you Ben Steins voice
What type of gas are you using in your Little Smith Torch. Thanks for all y our help.
Hi, Lynnae! Thanks for reaching out :) Here we're using the Smith® Little Torch™ Propane and Oxygen System (item #500076) www.riogrande.com/Product/500076 Let us know if we can provide you with any more information!
Thank you. I went ahead and set up my Little Smith with the propane and oxygen as I heard from someone that this was the industry standard. I found that using the #7 tip I didn't heat my larger piece evenly enough and popped off part of the enamel. It's a learning experience! I used the 1030 white as an under coat for transparent and it didn't melt quite right. It didn't flow as it should have. I'm finding problems with the black underglaze they sent as an extra in my last order. I tried grinding it down farther and will try it again. I painted it on while it was still wet and it seemed to be OK. I was getting lumps and not complete melting. I'm learning and not quite so frustrated. So thankful for your videos!
Hey, Lynnae! Keep at it, practice makes perfect :) Remember that our Jewelry Tech Team is always more than happy to help you with your processes! Give them a call at 800-545-6566 and they'd love to talk to you about this. Have a wonderful day :)
I am thinking of trying enamelling on cast bronze flowers, so much thicker and larger than your folded copper, do you think this would work? Perhaps having to heat from all round, with a bigger torch, and probably not possible to only heat up from below like you showed. Have you tried enamel on bronze? Thank you.. Dido
+cloughie11 i'm sorry but i cannot give you any reliable info on enameling on bronze as i've never done it.
and how did you do that spray bottle?
Can this technique be used on Brass?
Love your videos, very helpful. Is it truly necessary to enamel the backside of your copper? What if you use something like Scalex to coat the back? Also what if I wanted to paint my enamel on with a brush, what would I use as a liquid medium for the powder enamel? Thanks so much for all the great information!
the applicable term is "thermal expansion". a thin layer of enamel on one side of copper will usually bond without too much of a problem. thicker than one thin layer will require "counter enamel". this is enamel on the back of the piece. when the copper piece is heated it expands, and the melted layer of glass expands with it. upon cooling, the copper wants to shrink, but the enamel layer doesn't. this sets up a stress or tension. the thicker the layer of enamel on the front, the more tension, and at this point the enamel, being more fragile than the copper will crack or chip off. firing enamel onto the back balances the stress and keeps the copper from shrinking, lessening the tension. scale on the back of the copper would simply flake off after it is fired. regarding painting, you could use water if on a flat surface or a mixture of water and klyrfyre on a curved surface. experiment with the water/glue proportion to see what gives you the results you want.
@@rfenamels Will also stop the copper from colouring/poisoning things like fx skin, I would suspect.
hey great video, just wanted to know what type of glue were you using< any liquid glue or a specific epoxy glue mixture?
klyrefyre mixed with water.
Ricky Frank
Do you know if Gum Arabic or Hairspray even (aka Glasstac) would do the job..? Thx
TINKA GLASS yes, i believe it would. i know that some people use hairspray
Excellent video. Thanks so much.
Is using the atomizer over a paint brush better? Also, is the atomizer something like an aerosol where it depletes and must be replaced? Always great videos--thanks Rio, thanks Ricky!
Hi k per! Thanks for watching! We asked our Jewelry Tech Team about your question. They think the atomizer is better than a brush. The atomizer achieves an even mist of adhesive on the surface when it's sprayed. This gives an even surface when applying the enamel. Brush strokes could bulk up on the strokes leaving hills and valleys. This surface would be uneven. And, yes, it must be replaced when the air is gone. Hope this helps!
Yes, thanks very much, and thanks for always responding so quickly!
Where can I buy this glue easily. What is the name of the glue and please can you tell how much glue and water is mixed?
+arshad nfs i use klyrfyre mixed with water when spraying glue prior to sifting. i use less klyrefyre if using transparents as it can lead to cloudiness if too strong. also depends on the angle of the vertical. the more vertical, the stronger your glue mixture needs to be. try different proportions to see what works for YOU. don't rely on what someone tells you to do. each project is different.
what for a soap you use to clean the copper? (sorry for my bad englisch)
Hi there - You can use dish soap! The key is to make sure to rinse off all of the soap. If there is oxidation to be removed you could use a copper cleaner like Blitz copper cleaner but make sure you wash it with soap and water to remove any polish residue.
Hope this is helpful!
@@RioGrande1944 Thank you very much
Oh i didn't think that you could torch fire cloissone.. I guess it makes sense since you just need the temperature to get to a certain level before the sand will melt. That's more affordable than buying a kiln for sure!
thanks, can this technique be applied to aluminum pieces? what are the products?
+fercarcas Hey there! You can find the materials for this project here: www.riogrande.com/Content/Using-Adhesive-Techniques-To-Enamel-VID-psd
Hey again, +fercarcas ! We don’t like to say that someone can’t do something because if you work hard enough with experimentation and use the correct materials most anything can be done. For fold forming, our Jewelry Tech Team doesn't think aluminum will lend itself to it because of brittleness.
There might be an alloy out there that is ductile enough but we are not aware of any. As far as enameling, enamels we sell are fired at 1500°F aluminum melts around 1250°F There might be a higher melting point aluminum alloy or a lower melting point enamel but we do not know of it. Hope this helps.
What Brand torch are you using? Could I possibly have a description please? Thanks :)
Hi sheroncouch1, ricky is using the Smith Little torch with oxy/propane. Here is a link to the ones we carry. www.riogrande.com/Search/little-torch
I hope this is of some help.
Thank you, Mark N Tech
:) Thanks
Thanks for this video Ricky. One question, why did you choose to torch fire this one over kiln firing? Cheers :D
Karen Harries when i am making these videos I am trying to show lots of ways of working. I like to fire in a kiln as it gives me more control. Torch firing is more challenging in that the flame will discolor the enamel, but there is an immediacy because you can see it changing so easily, and YOU are controlling the flame and heat application. I can make cloisonné pieces with a torch, or quick, loose overtired pieces in a kiln. there isn't a right way to do any of this.
Karen Harries when i am making these videos I am trying to show lots of ways of working. I like to fire in a kiln as it gives me more control. Torch firing is more challenging in that the flame will discolor the enamel, but there is an immediacy because you can see it changing so easily, and YOU are controlling the flame and heat application. I can make cloisonné pieces with a torch, or quick, loose overtired pieces in a kiln. there isn't a right way to do any of this.
hi what is this powder?
That vent looks like a great place to put my coffee mug to keep my coffee warm :D
No safety glasses while torching?
Rio enamel adhesive : what is its composition? The Rio Grande brand has no more... A big thank you. I am in France...
I'm sorry! I really enjoy your videos... but you really remind me of Bill Murray.
YES !!!