What dose a job like this cost on average im having power loss issues ford focus mk3 after the engines heats up. I would like a idea of cost before bring into your garage if you could help me. Thank you in advance
Nothing more to add...wonderful job Crystal clear explanation. Thanks for take the time and do it that way (professional). +1 Subs since now. Great job. 🤺👌
The vacuum pump valve, diaphragm was shot to bits on mine, but I followed you video to check the diagnostics, which I'll have to check again when I fix it, I think I've sourced just the diaphragm alone for just under £15 🤞 Great work content like yours helps us save a few quid during desperate times
very good video,use this to fix a 20 dti zafira,very poor boost ,tested ecu to boost solinoid and got a switch earth ,opcom could power up solinoids too,applied vacum with a hand pump too,got waste gate to move and hold posistion ,all what was left was the pipes and the pump,pipes held vac and i tried vac pump on pump,did same as yours ,back forth on dial,but i not know that was a bad thing ,after watch this vid ,tried vac test on another zaf a dti and gauge held steady ,hold vac,your vid was the key to moving forward,swop out pump and zaf pulls like a train now ,got live data in opcom too,never thought of check there ,see what the ecu see,from its sensors ,cheers buddy ,keep up the good work ,i have fixed 3 transits now too,and got forscan ,from watching you,and a usb oscilloscope too,for my laptop,boss thinks its strange now i have started fixing more cars ,vans,told him i got a good teacher ,night school,
Perfect video, nice that you showed the diagram of the turbo and vacuum lines. Have a similar issue with my fiesta. Already checked the turbo and it looks fine, along with all my induction hoses. I think I'll try this out. Thanks a lot
My check valve was broken too. Tested it also on work bench but no need to remove the pump. Fitted an in-line 4mm dia hose check valve for the grand total of £5. At 2k rpm before fitting check valve I got vacuum pressure of 10inHg and after I got 20inHg!
nice alternative fix, having the video obviously helped, I on the other hand had to find the check valve initially. I've fitted a non return valve since and like you, it worked
the diaphragm he replaced the whole vac pump to fix can be found of under £10 on Ebay. the dead giveaway is that the wastegate actuator rod can be seen flapping about at idle when the engine is running. its just a case of pulling the hose out of the plastic diagram removing a T25 screw and inserting a new one then reconnecting the pipe. you may also want to wash about the BCS on the side of the engine as it can have oil in it that has been pushed into it because of the failed diaphragm so a shot of brake clean in the 3 ports and shaking out the oil inside before reinstalling it can fix the issue.
I have been following this video with interest watched it a few times to get my head around it. Our 1.0 focus is down on power and there is hardly any vaccum on the pump. It seems to send out an oily mist at the same time pulsates if that make sense. We replaced the one way valve got one of ebay but it lasted a month. We have forscan that gives the same boost reading that you were showing shows a negative reading as the engine if revved. Looks like it needs a new vac pump, Worst engine I have ever owned poor sytem with the wet belt we have had that done after it broke but we were able to get it fixed.
having the same problem on my focus. fluctuates and sends some sort of mist out. lose power if I put my foot down too much in higher gears. I’ve tested the vacuum with a gauge and the needle goes everywhere. Did replacing it solve it?
This video has been great help for me, thanks! My turbo was broken and had to replace it, with new turbo I still get codes P132B and P006A.. Car is not working at all.. Checked the vacuum pump and it is holding vacuum. At idle it is giving 20psi vacuum, but when I press brake few times the vacuum goes to 0 and then is slowly going back to 20psi.. Should there bee strong vacuum all the time when motor is running? Should I replace my vacuum pump?
it may be worth getting hold of a one way valve and place it in line between the vac solenoid and pump before spending on a new pump. Also a cheap fix too
@@SYDiagnostics I checked the vacuum pump outlet and it is holding vacuum, so I think the check valve is ok? I have one spare one way valve, so I could try that.
@@JouniP19 then i'd be questioning the turbo you've replaced or if you have a boost leak , can you operate the wastegate, if you pull vac pipe off with it on idle, you should see the rod move
go a problem with same engine. got good vacuum from pump ( fitted new one way valve ) but it throws p132b :21 code and has loss of turbo power. ive swopped out the solenoid (2nd hand ) and its the same . Ive fited new map sensor and got voltage at the solenoid but it wont send vacuum signal to the waste gate. ( checken all hoses and smoke tested it ) Im stumped now . any ideas ? thanks for your great content .
@@wicked0815 it's advisable to remove the sump and clean the pick up pipe, flush oil system. The belt is a very big job requiring special tools. Most issues are down to poor servicing/ oil
@@SYDiagnostics ford wants to replace the belt, the oil pump, the water pump and the vacuum pump at my c-max. I missed my last service for about 2 months. They want 2.200 bucks for it ☹️
I tend to use it only for a quick look. For me its not anything like PICO and if the job requires it, then the PICO comes out (my own). Thanks for the comments
Nice job mate can you help me P2307 Ignition coil C, primary circuit - circuit high P2308 Ignition coil B primary circuit - circuit high I fitted all new spark plugs and 2 new coils car is still the same misfiring bad do u think it might be bad camshaft sensor fault u can start the car a rev it lightly let the pedal go engine cuts out thanks
Regarding my earlier comment I see the smoke testing kit is expensive! I think I'm out my depth, some of it looks simple enough, checking the pump for damage, maybe checking the pressure. I ought to start at the beginning with the live data see what I get, that I should be able to manage.
You can get tools for turbo testing that use compressed air for under £100. These can be adapted to this application but air isn't easy to see unlike smoke
Love the videos. I've managed to fix this fault with fitting a non return valve from a brake vac hose into the vac feed pipe to the boost control solenoid. Much better than a £300 pound vac pump. Hope that helps someone.
@@nori.m6898 no sorry I dont have a video. It's pretty easy though. I didn't cut the existing hose just added a non return valve to the end and connected it up with another small bit of hose.
The tourist Hi thanks for the reply. I have ordered a one way check valve online today. What direction should the arrow on the check valve face when installing? (im guessing arrow should should point towards the vacum pump?) Also did you do a vacum test afterwards and was the needle on the gauge stable? Thanks
@@allaroundrc3204 you should blow through your non return valve to the pump. The pump is removing air from the lines. Just check that at ldle your turbo actuator is being pulled all the way closed.
Where abouts are you located ? I have a 1.4 tdi 2011 with same code but it's come up twice same as yours and the other says Turbo charging pressure sensor circuit signal outside lower limit , any ideas ?
Heyy, I am experiencing the same issue on my Focus ( 1.5 Ecoboost engine ) 150 ps version ; can you help me with the part number for the Vacuum pump and how much did it cost you ? The dealer here refuse to give me the part number; And this engine is not on every market , so I don't know if my vacuum pump is the same as the Kuga ( Escape ) or Fusion with the same engine or even the 1.0 Focus . Thank You.
Thanks for the informative video SY Diagnostics, im hoping you or someone else can help me, i have found i have this issue and upon looking have confirmed the check valve inner rubber umbrella diaphragm membrane piece is broken/disintegrated, i tested with a good working valve from a friends car same car/engine and it solved my issue , so im looking for a replacement inner rubber umbrella membrane diaphragm for inside , does anyone know where i can buy one cheap in the UK ? failing that i have found an inline Brake Servo Non Return Valve Check One-Way Brake Booster Vacuum valve online. The specs for this valve are Valve Opening (Cracking) Pressure:
Where about you located mate i have the same problem with my ford focus 1.0 ecoboost 13 reg... and everyone is telling me is the turbocharger have to be changed...
Great video, I found this searching for the same error code on 2012 fiesta 1.4 tdci euro 5 engine,, would you know if this has the same turbo vacuum pump to check for ? I do not have access to the testing equipment and am pretty sure after checking what I can that my problem could very well be the same if mine is the same set up at the ecoboost ? I appreciate reply in advance, ohh and my car is smoking badly when driven but smokes like made when driven! a sign of turbo malfunction also i believe, but does seem to boost when revs get to 3000
Hi again, I brought a used turbo as mechanic told me it was the turbo on the 2nd engine that he believed was also faulty , So he fitted the used turbo and told me car was now fixed, I pick it up and drove home 2 miles car seemed fine but was smoking blue/white on way home, i thought that was oil residue left from old turbo ,, anyway took car for 4 mile drive and same code came back and now in limp mode again ,, most frustrating indeed
I have pending DTC code p132b (21) and I'm looking to save some money and hopefully diagnose the problem myself (total novice) Lets be fair it's £45 just to get the diagnostics on it to tell you you've got a problem (I know already) what tools are required and are they expensive? I see a pressure gauges are required, Ive seen a kit at Toolstation and others for £20 or less are these adequate? How much is the smoke testing gear? is there anything that I shouldn't attempt? I have seen elsewhere that shot diaphragm can be a a route cause, and that's just undoing one bolt to check that ain't it? We are all just trying to save a few quid times are hard! I've only had the vehicle a few months 😭Been serviced regular, full MOT no advisories, vehicle health check at Perrys 31/03/2022 engine timing check required and fixed (£392.47) and a pre delivery inspection carried out 07/04/2022 (Turbo charger operates ✅Hoses lines and fittings ✅ wiring and cables ✅ Am I just unlucky? Sorry it's long winded, but I NEED HELP! Thanks in advance
@@FranckoFerj There was a rubber diaphram that had burnt, which I replaced. I also had a 02 sensor replaced, not sure if the 2 were related but I've not had any issues since.
I guess the check valve on the pump would stop any major vacuum fluctuations as the pump turned, unlike the test with the original pump where the needle was a blur in the vacuum gauge.
oww if that debris are bits of the wet belt, he's gonna have bigger problems than the turbo very soon, if the oil pump clogs or the belt direclty fails, goodbye engine
Did you by chance notice oil on the "check valve" of the vacuum supply (ie. 7:52) before taking the vacuum pump off? I have a 2014 Fiesta with exactly the same symptoms and also oil on the vacuum pump around the area where this valve goes in. here's a picture - imgur.com/a/XYF4yUy
@@sterpumihai either from internally via the o ring on the valve or possibly through misting around the hose? hard to say really, id imagine its oil that eventually deteriorates the check valve diaphragm
Knocking them out now mate 👌 Fantastic Diag & Repair 👍
What dose a job like this cost on average im having power loss issues ford focus mk3 after the engines heats up. I would like a idea of cost before bring into your garage if you could help me. Thank you in advance
Nothing more to add...wonderful job Crystal clear explanation.
Thanks for take the time and do it that way (professional).
+1 Subs since now.
Great job. 🤺👌
The vacuum pump valve, diaphragm was shot to bits on mine, but I followed you video to check the diagnostics, which I'll have to check again when I fix it, I think I've sourced just the diaphragm alone for just under £15 🤞 Great work content like yours helps us save a few quid during desperate times
You can get the check valves separately now! Good video
very good video,use this to fix a 20 dti zafira,very poor boost ,tested ecu to boost solinoid and got a switch earth ,opcom could power up solinoids too,applied vacum with a hand pump too,got waste gate to move and hold posistion ,all what was left was the pipes and the pump,pipes held vac and i tried vac pump on pump,did same as yours ,back forth on dial,but i not know that was a bad thing ,after watch this vid ,tried vac test on another zaf a dti and gauge held steady ,hold vac,your vid was the key to moving forward,swop out pump and zaf pulls like a train now ,got live data in opcom too,never thought of check there ,see what the ecu see,from its sensors ,cheers buddy ,keep up the good work ,i have fixed 3 transits now too,and got forscan ,from watching you,and a usb oscilloscope too,for my laptop,boss thinks its strange now i have started fixing more cars ,vans,told him i got a good teacher ,night school,
Wow!! That's great to hear
Thank you for teaching us how the computer controls the vacuum control solenoid which controls the turbo. Sincerely...
Great diagnosis and fix 👍👍
Cheers Chris, I'm gonna test you on it tomorrow !!!
Great case study. Good methodical approach to diagnostics
Why do customers bring a car in for service with an empty fuel tank?
Perfect video, nice that you showed the diagram of the turbo and vacuum lines. Have a similar issue with my fiesta. Already checked the turbo and it looks fine, along with all my induction hoses. I think I'll try this out. Thanks a lot
My check valve was broken too. Tested it also on work bench but no need to remove the pump. Fitted an in-line 4mm dia hose check valve for the grand total of £5. At 2k rpm before fitting check valve I got vacuum pressure of 10inHg and after I got 20inHg!
nice alternative fix, having the video obviously helped, I on the other hand had to find the check valve initially. I've fitted a non return valve since and like you, it worked
Excellent vid, crazy you cant get this valve separately.
You can...volvo do it
Absolute stunning mate and i like ur voice!!!
ha ha ... thanks for the comment
I would be stupid if I didn’t subscribe…..best best….looking for word to learn more thanks
Enjoyed that one mate..... top job 👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers John, looking forward to yours, will only be a matter of time ;-)
Great vid keep up the good work 👍
Nice one mate.
What’s the world coming to when you need to service your car regularly, they just don’t make em like they used to 🙄
I know !! and we all thought these longlife oil regimes where good !! lol
Great Diag SY, thanks for sharing
the diaphragm he replaced the whole vac pump to fix can be found of under £10 on Ebay. the dead giveaway is that the wastegate actuator rod can be seen flapping about at idle when the engine is running. its just a case of pulling the hose out of the plastic diagram removing a T25 screw and inserting a new one then reconnecting the pipe. you may also want to wash about the BCS on the side of the engine as it can have oil in it that has been pushed into it because of the failed diaphragm so a shot of brake clean in the 3 ports and shaking out the oil inside before reinstalling it can fix the issue.
Brilliant video again
I love the diagnostic process you utilize. Very educational.
Great diag. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Thats a good bit of boost for a small engine....
I bet the brakes were a lot sharper to with restored vacuum.
Surprisingly I didnt notice any braking issues, but they did run out of vacuum after a few pumps
Great vid Steve 👍
I have been following this video with interest watched it a few times to get my head around it. Our 1.0 focus is down on power and there is hardly any vaccum on the pump. It seems to send out an oily mist at the same time pulsates if that make sense. We replaced the one way valve got one of ebay but it lasted a month. We have forscan that gives the same boost reading that you were showing shows a negative reading as the engine if revved. Looks like it needs a new vac pump, Worst engine I have ever owned poor sytem with the wet belt we have had that done after it broke but we were able to get it fixed.
having the same problem on my focus. fluctuates and sends some sort of mist out. lose power if I put my foot down too much in higher gears. I’ve tested the vacuum with a gauge and the needle goes everywhere. Did replacing it solve it?
Great find thanks for sharing 👍
This video has been great help for me, thanks!
My turbo was broken and had to replace it, with new turbo I still get codes P132B and P006A.. Car is not working at all.. Checked the vacuum pump and it is holding vacuum. At idle it is giving 20psi vacuum, but when I press brake few times the vacuum goes to 0 and then is slowly going back to 20psi.. Should there bee strong vacuum all the time when motor is running? Should I replace my vacuum pump?
it may be worth getting hold of a one way valve and place it in line between the vac solenoid and pump before spending on a new pump. Also a cheap fix too
@@SYDiagnostics I checked the vacuum pump outlet and it is holding vacuum, so I think the check valve is ok? I have one spare one way valve, so I could try that.
@@JouniP19 have you got vacuum at the turbo and on road test can you see the vacuum build up and release on demand?
@@SYDiagnostics Tested at road and the vacuum at turbo was ok and relealeased when no demand.. So the vacuum pump seems to be ok..
@@JouniP19 then i'd be questioning the turbo you've replaced or if you have a boost leak , can you operate the wastegate, if you pull vac pipe off with it on idle, you should see the rod move
go a problem with same engine. got good vacuum from pump ( fitted new one way valve ) but it throws p132b :21 code and has loss of turbo power. ive swopped out the solenoid (2nd hand ) and its the same . Ive fited new map sensor and got voltage at the solenoid but it wont send vacuum signal to the waste gate. ( checken all hoses and smoke tested it ) Im stumped now . any ideas ?
thanks for your great content .
great fix. but what is the cause for the debris on the gauze filter? maybe the timing belt?
Exactly that.....
@@SYDiagnostics so it needs to be replaced too?
@@wicked0815 it's advisable to remove the sump and clean the pick up pipe, flush oil system. The belt is a very big job requiring special tools. Most issues are down to poor servicing/ oil
@@SYDiagnostics ford wants to replace the belt, the oil pump, the water pump and the vacuum pump at my c-max. I missed my last service for about 2 months. They want 2.200 bucks for it ☹️
@@wicked0815 ouch....!!
Cracking vid, cheers.
Hey bud..
Notice that you are using vcmm scope.
How do you like it compare to other scopes you may have used?
Notice any things you cant use it for?
I tend to use it only for a quick look. For me its not anything like PICO and if the job requires it, then the PICO comes out (my own). Thanks for the comments
Nice job mate can you help me
P2307 Ignition coil C, primary circuit - circuit high
P2308 Ignition coil B primary circuit - circuit high
I fitted all new spark plugs and 2 new coils car is still the same misfiring bad do u think it might be bad camshaft sensor fault u can start the car a rev it lightly let the pedal go engine cuts out thanks
Currently we are having this problem and hopefully changing the vacuum pump will stop the short circuit 🙏🙏
Regarding my earlier comment I see the smoke testing kit is expensive! I think I'm out my depth, some of it looks simple enough, checking the pump for damage, maybe checking the pressure. I ought to start at the beginning with the live data see what I get, that I should be able to manage.
You can get tools for turbo testing that use compressed air for under £100.
These can be adapted to this application but air isn't easy to see unlike smoke
@@SYDiagnostics As I said I'm a novice, but I'm not simple and can follow simple instructions, but I'll only have a go if I think I'm caple.
Amazing vid. thanks
Thanks for this video!
what if the vacuum is good at the pump but herratic at the turbo actuator ? should i fisrt try a new solenoid? there is no leak in vacuum lines
Debris in gauze filter usually wet belt starting to break up. Customer should be advised to check this as its a very common issue
Sure is
Love the videos. I've managed to fix this fault with fitting a non return valve from a brake vac hose into the vac feed pipe to the boost control solenoid. Much better than a £300 pound vac pump. Hope that helps someone.
nice fix........well done . Glad i helped in some way
The tourist i think i have the same problem there.... do you have any sort of video or something to show how you did it?
@@nori.m6898 no sorry I dont have a video. It's pretty easy though. I didn't cut the existing hose just added a non return valve to the end and connected it up with another small bit of hose.
The tourist
Hi thanks for the reply.
I have ordered a one way check valve online today.
What direction should the arrow on the check valve face when installing? (im guessing arrow should should point towards the vacum pump?)
Also did you do a vacum test afterwards and was the needle on the gauge stable?
Thanks
@@allaroundrc3204 you should blow through your non return valve to the pump. The pump is removing air from the lines. Just check that at ldle your turbo actuator is being pulled all the way closed.
Where abouts are you located ? I have a 1.4 tdi 2011 with same code but it's come up twice same as yours and the other says
Turbo charging pressure sensor circuit signal outside lower limit , any ideas ?
It'll probably be the turbo actuator (built in sensor) quite common
@@SYDiagnostics thanks
Heyy, I am experiencing the same issue on my Focus ( 1.5 Ecoboost engine ) 150 ps version ; can you help me with the part number for the Vacuum pump and how much did it cost you ? The dealer here refuse to give me the part number; And this engine is not on every market , so I don't know if my vacuum pump is the same as the Kuga ( Escape ) or Fusion with the same engine or even the 1.0 Focus . Thank You.
Thanks for the informative video SY Diagnostics, im hoping you or someone else can help me, i have found i have this issue and upon looking have confirmed the check valve inner rubber umbrella diaphragm membrane piece is broken/disintegrated, i tested with a good working valve from a friends car same car/engine and it solved my issue , so im looking for a replacement inner rubber umbrella membrane diaphragm for inside , does anyone know where i can buy one cheap in the UK ? failing that i have found an inline Brake Servo Non Return Valve Check One-Way Brake Booster Vacuum valve online.
The specs for this valve are
Valve Opening (Cracking) Pressure:
Troubleshooting path for 1.6 tdci fiesta could be same as here?
Where about you located mate i have the same problem with my ford focus 1.0 ecoboost 13 reg... and everyone is telling me is the turbocharger have to be changed...
Lincolnshire
Any postcode possible mate? Would help me out
@@nori.m6898 Grimsby
I have the very same issue.....check valve was replaced(volvo sell it seperate) new recirculation valve and no leaks....any more ideas ?
Can you tell me the volvo part no.? Thank you!
With p132b21 code?
I have volvo v40 2013 with this code
Hi where did you find the turbo diagram?
Ford Etis workshop manual
Great video, I found this searching for the same error code on 2012 fiesta 1.4 tdci euro 5 engine,, would you know if this has the same turbo vacuum pump to check for ? I do not have access to the testing equipment and am pretty sure after checking what I can that my problem could very well be the same if mine is the same set up at the ecoboost ? I appreciate reply in advance, ohh and my car is smoking badly when driven but smokes like made when driven! a sign of turbo malfunction also i believe, but does seem to boost when revs get to 3000
it will be a different vacuum pump. The diesel engines suffere from faulty turbo boost position sensors which are part of the wastegate actuator
i'd also che3ck for boost leaks too
@@SYDiagnostics Thank you very much indeed , hopefully we can get this sorted , I am on 2nd engine lol!
Hi again, I brought a used turbo as mechanic told me it was the turbo on the 2nd engine that he believed was also faulty , So he fitted the used turbo and told me car was now fixed, I pick it up and drove home 2 miles car seemed fine but was smoking blue/white on way home, i thought that was oil residue left from old turbo ,, anyway took car for 4 mile drive and same code came back and now in limp mode again ,, most frustrating indeed
Can this broke valve give a rich mixture? Thank you!
I have the same engine what's turbo wastegate at idle
I have a P0238 error code on my 1.0l fiesta Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High which presents similar symptoms. What should i inspect first?
First thing I'd be checking is live data to confirm the readings then check supply, signal and ground on the sensor
I have pending DTC code p132b (21) and I'm looking to save some money and hopefully diagnose the problem myself (total novice) Lets be fair it's £45 just to get the diagnostics on it to tell you you've got a problem (I know already) what tools are required and are they expensive? I see a pressure gauges are required, Ive seen a kit at Toolstation and others for £20 or less are these adequate? How much is the smoke testing gear? is there anything that I shouldn't attempt? I have seen elsewhere that shot diaphragm can be a a route cause, and that's just undoing one bolt to check that ain't it? We are all just trying to save a few quid times are hard! I've only had the vehicle a few months 😭Been serviced regular, full MOT no advisories, vehicle health check at Perrys 31/03/2022 engine timing check required and fixed (£392.47) and a pre delivery inspection carried out 07/04/2022 (Turbo charger operates ✅Hoses lines and fittings ✅ wiring and cables ✅ Am I just unlucky?
Sorry it's long winded, but I NEED HELP! Thanks in advance
You fixed this code? Mi volvo have same proble….
@@FranckoFerj There was a rubber diaphram that had burnt, which I replaced. I also had a 02 sensor replaced, not sure if the 2 were related but I've not had any issues since.
I guess the check valve on the pump would stop any major vacuum fluctuations as the pump turned, unlike the test with the original pump where the needle was a blur in the vacuum gauge.
exactly, you got it !
1st boom:-)
Good Lad !!
you timing belt is in dissolution, thats the reason why your filter on your vacuumpump is blocked/clogged. Wrong engin oil used in this car
oww if that debris are bits of the wet belt, he's gonna have bigger problems than the turbo very soon, if the oil pump clogs or the belt direclty fails, goodbye engine
Pierburg boost control non-return valve Audi VW Skoda Seat 7.05817.00 046905291A giving one of these a try 🙏🏼
Did you by chance notice oil on the "check valve" of the vacuum supply (ie. 7:52) before taking the vacuum pump off?
I have a 2014 Fiesta with exactly the same symptoms and also oil on the vacuum pump around the area where this valve goes in.
here's a picture - imgur.com/a/XYF4yUy
to be honestly can't remember now, it was a long while ago
@@SYDiagnostics but what do you think from my picture? is it normal? where does that oil come from?
@@sterpumihai either from internally via the o ring on the valve or possibly through misting around the hose?
hard to say really, id imagine its oil that eventually deteriorates the check valve diaphragm
Typical, no fuel!