The failsafe protrusion on the end of the driveshaft was fitted by Lotus after some expensive litigation in the USA which related to a horrible injury suffered by a child in the back seat of a +2 when a donut failed.
Love your videos: shows the reality of struggling with stuff seized solid and improvising with guerrilla engineering. That said, could you have used an angle grinder to cut (almost) thru the stubborn bearings to weaken their grip and bang them off..? Look forward to the next installment.
Thanks Tony. Yeah, I thought about the angle grinder route and also welding something to the out race that I could of got hold of but decided both were a bit to drastic and was also conscious that I would need something to use on the other hub as well. If the manual puller option hadn't worked I was going to try a hydraulic puller.
Thanks Frank for you kind words. I'm not sure what to release on video next; Assembling the hub with new bearings etc as this will take a week or two to complete or to do a bit on the disassembly and checking of the diff? What do you think? Or is there something else you would like to see?
@@ianj3663 Ian. You could open up the diff, but I doubt you'll find anything to do but replace the three seals. The diff is boring because they're built rock solid by Ford and they almost never fail. One thing you could explore is changing the final drive ratio in order to lower the rpms at highway speed. I guess that would require installing a different ring gear. Don't know how difficult this would be.
Buy a press, Ian. That's what I used to remove these bearings. It took about 30 minutes.
The failsafe protrusion on the end of the driveshaft was fitted by Lotus after some expensive litigation in the USA which related to a horrible injury suffered by a child in the back seat of a +2 when a donut failed.
Thanks for the info.
Worst job on any elan by far is changing the rear bearings, you need all the right gear. Good stuff, love watching and thinking "been there..."
Thx
Love your videos: shows the reality of struggling with stuff seized solid and improvising with guerrilla engineering. That said, could you have used an angle grinder to cut (almost) thru the stubborn bearings to weaken their grip and bang them off..? Look forward to the next installment.
Thanks Tony. Yeah, I thought about the angle grinder route and also welding something to the out race that I could of got hold of but decided both were a bit to drastic and was also conscious that I would need something to use on the other hub as well. If the manual puller option hadn't worked I was going to try a hydraulic puller.
Really great video and really good thinking that went into designing and constructing that puller! Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks Frank for you kind words. I'm not sure what to release on video next; Assembling the hub with new bearings etc as this will take a week or two to complete or to do a bit on the disassembly and checking of the diff? What do you think? Or is there something else you would like to see?
@@ianj3663 Ian. You could open up the diff, but I doubt you'll find anything to do but replace the three seals. The diff is boring because they're built rock solid by Ford and they almost never fail. One thing you could explore is changing the final drive ratio in order to lower the rpms at highway speed. I guess that would require installing a different ring gear. Don't know how difficult this would be.
Many thanks for putting aside the time to share your experience. I’ll give you 12 out of 10 for perseverance and 10 out of 10 for result. 👌🏻
Thanks George, it was a bit of a labour of love.
put the device sideways in the vice and then you can use gravity to push down on the ratchet. good effort though
Yeap.....I'll do that next time.
invest in a cheap hydraulic press?
If the manual screw version hadn't worked the next move would have been a hydraulic puller. Thanks for you support.