Custom frame rail reinforcing - [Project SuperDUkota - Dodge Dakota + Super Duty axles] Part 4
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
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In the previous episode we added a new custom frame rail to the solid axle swap (SAS) Dakota quad cab 4x4 that actually cleared our Super Duty Dana 60. Now see how I reinforce the seam between the welded old and new frame to prevent stress cracks or any other kind of failure! One word- fishplates. Welding in fish plates reinforce butt welds in frames or other high stress joints. They spread out the load so that the frame weld doesn't crack sure to a concentration of forces is the heat affected zones
We also fabricate a custom motor mount on to the new frame section using metalcloak duraflex joints. Not their intended application but we'll see how they work out.
Thank you all for being patient! I know I'm lagging in getting these videos up in a timely manner. Dad life is taking up most of my free time these days!
Also check out WebWheeler on Instagram to get a sneak peak of what's to come on this project and others!
Video is for entertainment purposes only. Not for instruction or education. All vehicle modifications should be done by certified professionals. Creator/channel assumes no liability for viewer actions. - Авто та транспорт
Been too long , heck I thought I missed something . Glad to know I didn’t , I want to see this truck finished !!
Me too! Haha yeah I'm slow with the editing but things should pick up a little now that my baby is in a decent sleep routine and I'm getting better (or at least quicker!) with the editing haha
So excited to see this truck on the trail
Me too! 😎
Badass project! Can’t wait to see it built! Hurry up! Lol
Haha I'm working on it! Editing the next video now 👍 hopefully quicker than the last!
WebWheeler Awesome! Following over on Instagram too!
I have a 1997 Dakota with a 318 magnum it has a 6” supposition and a 3” body lift, on 35” super swampers, got sick of replacing hub bearing every 4 - 6 months. Thanks for sharing.
No problem man- thanks for watching!
Dude you are a beast
Great stuff love the fabricating
Thanks dude! Most shows/channels skip way too much of the real build process where people learn the most so I'm trying to do things a little differently 👍
WebWheeler it really helps I’m just getting into fabrication myself. I’m teaching myself to weld and gonna throw a set of one tons under my Cherokee
Nice! I plan on doing some videos about getting started with this type of fab work so stay tuned! Thanks again for watching
I am planning to do this to my truck just found your channel I have a 2000 Dakota 5spd keep it up man
Nice! I'm glad you found the channel too! Thanks a lot for watching
Love the name of the channel 👌🏻
Haha thanks man. Seemed appropriate for what I'm doing here 😜
Finally a new video!
I know! Haha I'm hoping to get them cranked out a little quicker now that the new baby is settled in to a decent routine 👍
Woot
Keep up the progress! Giving me the inspiration to do the same to my 04 Dakota! What engine is in this beast?
Thanks a lot man! It's got the 5.9 Magnum 🤘
WebWheeler nice! I have the 4.7 in mine
I like the truck I'd like to know what steering box are you going to use?
I mocked up a lot of different boxes but decided the best option was a current-gen super duty steering box. It's got tons of power and the offset from the frame worked really well with my track bar geometry. I will be covering all that within the next 2-3 videos so subscribe and stayed tuned! Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for making these man. They are worth gold to me. I have an 01 Durango, and a pair of Dana 60s I'm gonna slap on soon. I feel I am perfectly capable of doing this framework, but is it avoidable? Will my truck sit too high if I don't tuck them like you?
Glad to hear they help you out! No- the frame work isn't always necessary- depends on the axles used, tire size, and ride height. What are your 60's out of and what's your tire size going to be? Appreciate the good words! Thanks for the support 👍
@@WebWheeler they came out of an '04 f250, they're ball joints. Wanting to stay around 38". After it's built, it will only see the road on its way to (and hopefully back) from a wheeling trip. Gonna see alot of rock in its life.
@@2cents422 nice! Yeah with the '04 front end you probably want to stick to 38" or less, otherwise you'll chew up unit bearings like crazy. You should be ok without touching the frame if your wheels don't have too much backspacing (4.5" or less i think) and lift it at least 2" which you'll likely want to do anyway haha. Sounds like a cool build!
When you’re done with the build I need you to do this same build to my truck lol. I’ll pay you 🤓
Haha it should be quicker than my build now that I know what I'm doing! Email me at webwheeleroffroad@gmail.com if you're serious about wanting some work done! Thanks 👍
WebWheeler will do. I’ll send you a email... can’t wait till this build is done.
1ST WOOOOOOOOTTTTT
I've seen so many people solid axle swap their stuff....that seems incredibly dumb to me if you want clearance because the bumpkin is solid and lower. If you want something fpr clearance while offroading, wouldn't you want the CV axle style setup front and rear I stead of only in the front? That way the bumpkin is up high and the axle shafts go down to it on each side and you have all that space in between for not wiping out your driveline, and you also aren't putting weird angles on your u-joints.
I mean that's the way I understand it. Can someone clarify why solid axles are used more than independent 4 wheel suspension? I understand solid axles are more reliable before someone says that.
I'm not badmouthjng anyone's build I just want a clearer understanding because it never made sense to me
Independent suspension's total up and down movement is limited by the CV joint angles. Most Independent axles have the differential offset to the side to leave room for an engine oilpan in the center. This means front CV shafts are pretty short and relatively small wheel up and down movements end up with high CV angles. Once these angles start to get high they begin to bind against themselves and will break much easier.
Straight axles are always straight except for the steering angle making them significantly stronger and allowing huge amounts of wheel travel until axle drivesshafts beging having the same binding issue, but since the distance between transfer case and axle pinion is much longer the angles change much slower
The other issue when dealing with anything custom is that independent suspension is exponentially more complicated/expensive to engineer and build. A solid axle can be mounted with some leaf springs and shocks and will function reliably and predictably. Not high-performance, but it works. Even a 4 link suspension on a solid axle is relatively straightforward while being capable of high-performance applications. Modifying, swapping, or building an independent suspension (assuming there's anything custom about it- travel, ride height, axle placement, etc) requires a pretty significant amount of engineering to make it function correctly. You see it reflected in the modern ultra4 rigs- most of the top 4400 teams run independent suspension, but many still choose a solid axle for the durability and value over independent suspension, even if it's capable of higher performance overall
@@WebWheeler the first part of that description kind of destroys the argument though. Independent front suspension isn't more complicated if it's already there....the rear end yeah I agree it's going to be a lot more complicated. But on front ends....a LOT of vehicles already have it. So...why get rid of that clearance for something that you have to modify to make it work that lowers your capabilities? As for altering ride height...I mean if it has bump stops...just cut them off....if you are raising it up, you won't ever hit them anyways on the downward travel.
That said, dependability...I'm also going to complain there too....I can still get pull if one of the CV axles breaks...it's still turning 1 wheel...if a solid axle breaks (the same amount of pressure can shear solid axle shaft splines as CV axle splines) well you are done. No more moving...
Custom setups yeah they can be expensive and complicated...I agree...
@@Kolonol1 modifications to an existing IFS setup will require a complete redesign to see the amount of wheel displacement that you would want out of a solid axle swap. It would require more money, knowledge, and surprisingly important, more space
@@BrokeWrench I wish I could show you pictures as to why you are wrong about that. I have a 6" lift on my Dakota. That's a 6" suspension lift not body lift...I hate body lifts...it cost me $140 for the add-a-leaf kit to get my height on the back and a set of torsion keys for the front. Another $55 for a seperate leaf adjuster set to give it a little more now to the springs (added 1500 pounds towing capacity too which is good...I like functional) and then I spent $115 each on CV axles intended for lifted setups. It's not hard, and I didn't need to do anything you said...now if you are lifting your truck....idk say 2 feet? Ok it makes sense to swap the axles...99.9% of those vehicles though are highway princesses and will never NEED the clearance...mine? Well I have a bad habbit of finding deep mud holes and going for it....if I had a solid front axle I wouldn't make it...soon as I get my welder back I'll probably build an IS setup for the rear too.