DAMN Steve you need a vacation. Just go up to el Rancho and do absolutely nothing for a few days. Unwind and relax and enjoy the peace and solitude of the mountains. Keep the great videos coming. Thanks for sharing and God bless
Roy, I could not agree with you more. I am hoping for a week or so up at El Rancho in July...the only real task up there right now is to cut grass...and who doesn't love riding on a tractor cutting grass!!!!
Ohhh, MAN..., feeling your pain here. I reckon we’ve all had days like that, I know I’ve had plenty. Usually, my problem is that I just want to get it done ASAP so I can go do something else more fun. In recent years, as I’m getting older, I’ve wised up a little and now just try to slow myself down and stay focussed on the job in hand. Still goes wrong sometimes but not as often. Love your videos, keep em coming.
Thanks for watching Kevin. Right now focus is difficult...I can't help but think how long my to-do list is. But it will settle down as I get caught up. Being injured really threw a wrench in the gears.
Good video, but for anyone interested, it's easier to adjust the pads to the drum as you put the drum back on. Spin the adjuster with your hand with the drum off, then put the rotor on. It should slide on with some drag when you're good.
Dude I feel your pain! We just did this job on my sons' '06 2500, only we did new axle seals on both sides as well. The advantage we had was he was replacing the rotors as well so we used a rotary hammer and a 5 lb sledge to get those old rotors off. Although while going to town on the first rusted rotor the jack stand decided it had enough and let go! Luckily we had a jack supporting the truck as well and we weren't injured, but were did have to stop to clean out our skivvies! lol The job still ended up taking us about 8 hours. The joys of owning heavy duty trucks......
I messed around with 1/2 ton trucks for a long time and always pushed them well beyond their capacities. Even with upgrades and improvements, you are still left with a 1/2 ton truck. For what I do, a heavy duty truck is what I need to own.... keeping them maintained is a whole different level of joy...hahaha. Glad all you got your truck fixed without any injuries. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
A little trick I picked up from someone to make adjustments easier. Is do the adjustment with the tires off just pull the rotor and adjust the star adjuster until you can just not slide the rotor back over the shoes and then back the adjuster off a couple notches. Then put that dust plug on with the rotor off so its easier to get in with a pick on the other side. The only time I do adjustment with everything on the wheel is when the shoes are getting worn down and you need to make minor adjustments.
I'll be doing this exact same thing. Unless we're talking semis that's the only time it's easy woth wheel and tire on. Onolder trailers you're exact comment is the way go go cause fuck cast spoke wheels lol
I’m getting ready to have mine done. I was watching to see all that I need to know. And now I know the local break shop is going to get some of my money. Thanks buddy.
At least you have the satisfaction of knowing the tire shop would have just left those plugs rattling around in the drum or wouldn't have put them back on at all. I've found doing the job right usually results in redundant work. I've gotta do the same job to both of my 2nd gen trucks. At least I know what to watch out for when doing mine. Thanks for that.
Thanks Dan, I have really not had good luck with shops in my area. I have come to realize that a little stress by doing it myself saves a TON of stress and spent money farming the work out. I guess I'm just used to my '99 Ram that had drum back brakes and those parking brakes could hold tight enough to stall the engine.
I feel your pain. It's easy to get distracted on some of these tasks. I agree about tire shops not torquing the lug nuts to specs. And sometimes they won't fully engage the socket with the nut, damaging the nut so you can't get a socket on.
Lucky your parking brake actuator lever is in good shape. I did rear brakes yesterday and the driver side sticks, had to drive it open with hammer and screwdriver. Guess I'll be doing new cables and hardware. Wish they would have put parking brake on driver's instead of axle. Don't feel bad, I had the caliper bracket on and started installing the caliper when I realized the rotor wasn't on.
I am just about to do my parking brakes today, my first time with this style. Thank you for your video. I hope I don't end up laying on my shop floor. I think I know what to expect now. But now that I've said that... Staring at the sky here I come!!!
@@yourbeekeeper I got it done! Not as many problems. But I had to do them twice LoL But a bad seal, old bearings and rotted backing plates was the kicker for me.
@@jamesakey5817 That's great to hear. Rust...Oh how I don't like rust. I am spoiled that I don't live in a place that salts the roads in the Winter or is a rust belt. Glad you got it sorted out, even if you did it twice... but that's twice the knowledge for the next time. Have a splendid weekend.
Good vid - one of the things I wondered where if there were any self adj's. I've learned one thing working on my own stuff; when there's a 50/50 chance, I am doomed.
I know your pain brother. I had a bad day 5 or 6 years ago when I changed the u-joints on my drive shaft on my old Durango. I forgot to put the c-clips back in. Test drive didn’t end well. Luckily there was no major damage and was fixable.
Few things. Your wheel seal is leaking. Be careful on lug torque. The factory changed it to a higher torque than the manual because the studs weren't stretch enough and the wheels were coming off. Hard to get off Lugnuts is more common on aluminum rims because sliding them over the steel stud will actually put aluminum dust in the threads and you lock it down when you thread on the steel nut and aluminum and steel have a reaction and welds itself. Finally, don't use chrome sockets extensions etc. on impacts.
Oof, been there buddy, can't remember the last time I went that deep into the compounding abyss, though! Frustrating for sure... I was wincing with you at the grommets but come the caliper what else is there but to laugh, take some time, and keep on keeping on. Hope all is well, be sure to take time for yourself!.. Even if it's just to lay there and stare at the sky every now and then :)
I have a 2007 3500. I went a little further, and took out the “scissor actuator” for the parking brake, as I found one of mine was rusted enough that it wasn’t engaging. Penetrating oil, and lube and I got it working again. Yes, tire shops always over-torque my lugs. I now cary a 30 some inch pipe in case I ever get a flat I have to change. Even at the specs of 145#s I don’t think the factory lug wrench can get off a tire that has been on a while.
Stupid no not one bit Steve!! Stupid would of given up and said I don't need a parking brake!! I have to tell my self regularly you have to slow down to go fast dummy!! I miss just one thing or push through that little rubber plug into the drum and it will whip my a$$ the rest of the day ! Glad to see your recovery is going great and your back working on stuff !
Thanks Michael, it seems like for all of 2020 and for likely a few more months, I only really have one day a week to get all my own chores done. I have a long list and it starts my day already feeling the pressure.
Hey I have made so many errors on building this rv that I sometimes think I am crazy. I have had to redo so many things that I am wearing out the screw heads and had to replace some of them already. I tell myself that I am just not paying attention to what I am doing. I hope that it is all it is.
Bro I've been there. Laying on the concrete staring at the sky, frustrated by some mechanical nonsense. Great video. On a side note - how are those tires wearing and how miles do you expect? Toyo RTs right? Considering them for my dually.
Thanks Matthew. Yes they are Toyo tires and let me just say that they came with the truck and I may be skewed in my opinion because I didn't have the pain of buying them outright (lol) ... also , I have never owned this brand of tires before so I am only speaking on this set. With that being said, I have put about 13k miles on the tires and really like them. They handle dry, wet and snow covered pavement well. As with any deep lug tire they get gravel stuck in them from my driveway. I get red, sticky mud at my ranch and they don't clear the mud from treads like more aggressive mud terrain tires I have had on my trucks in the past. They are wearing nicely. The previous owner had all the front axle steering components replaced and wheels aligned when he put the tires on, so that may have something to do with how well they are holding up. My friend has an '04 Ford F-350 and always runs these tires on it. He loves them and said he typically gets 40k miles on the tires. His truck is a bit of a pavement queen and spends 85% of the time on asphalt. He builds custom cars and regularly tows a gooseneck 2-car trailer.
@@yourbeekeeper Thanks! These are in the running due to reasonable road manners. Down here in Texas my tires see 2 things - asphalt and mud. Sure is hard to do both.
That’s cool man! Way to overcome adversity and succeed.. Did you have to adjust the cable after setting the brake shoes with the star nut? Just picked up my truck from the local Shaub Ellis ( Les Schwab Alaska ) complete brake job; new rotors, calipers, pads, fluid, etc.. The mechanic alerted me to the poor condition of the parking brake, I agreed to the extra labor and parts. Now my brake doesn’t hold at all, pedal goes to the floor, truck rolls.. I am tempted to ask them to refund the extra labor they charged me and adjust them myself. However, after monkeying around with the pad adjustments, it seems a cable adjustment is necessary.. thoughts?? Hope all is well man!
HI Shane, If you got new rear rotors, I would hope the installer would have cross-sanded the parking brake drum before putting them on. This is a holding brake and not a stopping brake, so cross sanding is a big improvement to how well the brakes hold. With that being said, once the shoes are properly adjusted, the cable is the final way to get them to hold. I tightened my cable adjuster so there was no slack in the cabling system. I'm sure you know this, but be sure not to adjust the cable too tight or the brakes will drag...just enough to take up the slack yet not so tight that they keep the brake arm (at the backing plate) from returning to full retracted position. Best of luck with your truck!!!!
That was the most accurate representation I have ever seen of working on a car in a driveway. I can’t wait to take my wheels on and off multiple times when I do this. Lol. I also noticed what looked like a laparoscopic surgical instrument on your tailgate at one point. How did you happen upon that or did you get it for something specific?
haha...yes, unfortunately when you don't do this type of work on a regular basis, you sometimes make mistakes. Yes, that instrument was found at a garage sale along with a few other forceps . The really come in handy to grab things in tight spots. Thanks for watching.
I guess you know that you loose quite a lot of torque with an extension bar, and even with deep socket, and I discovered that my air impact, its much stronger with a lager diameter hose.
Yeah, I do realize that. Thanks. These lug nuts are fairly long and a standard 13/16" socket doesn't capture the entire surface of the nut. I could have absolutely not used that extension...honestly not sure why I had it on there in the first place...lol.
They are set-up like a very traditional drum brake assembly. There are plenty of pictures/diagrams on the web of how the hardware works with the shoes.
@@yourbeekeeper I realize that. I'm referring to the retainers and springs part. The actual re attaching them . Because they weren't like any drum breaks I've worked on and I'm 70 years old . Maybe in basic theory and a little in design. I'm just saying if the design engineers would have taken 5 minuets to look at they could have improved on it. I really felt the design and attachment of the springs and retainers could have been substantially better
I wish I could have seen how you removed the E brake and how you adjusted it. I can replace brakes but I have never messed with the E brake adjustment or install. I appreciate the video and I share in your pain buddy.
The brake shoes are essentially the same as traditional drum brakes. The star adjusters are adjusted the same as drum brakes... get them so they are close to the drum with little to no drag. The actual adjustment comes from the hardware along the drivers side of the frame...get the slack out of the cable and you will be good.
I believe you installed your star adjusting nut on backwards on the passenger side. As long as you can get to it I guess it won't matter but the star wheel should have been towards the front of the truck not the rear. Remember how they're adjusted; rotate the star downward on the passenger side to tighten and upwards on the driver side to tighten. Look at your own video (9:45) when you removed the passenger side shoes. Star wheel was facing forward.
I could be wrong , but think those are refereed to as a Hat Rotor . lol i know the feeling on the adjuster boots getting pushed in , One thought is , only rubber , next thought , No , i have to take it apart again , darn darn darn . , Sorry but had to chuckle on the caliper ,
I was very close to just being done and letting them get ground up ... but then my crazy head would always be thinking of them in there...and the dust and water getting into the open port.. then...then...then...aaaaaarrrrrrgggghhh!!!! hahahaha. The caliper was just silly...I remember thinking as I torqued down the last lug nut..."boy that was fast". lol. Thanks for watching T.
One thing about it.....You will definitely know how to do parking brakes on a 05 Dodge 2500!! HaHaHa Hard lesson well learned here! I guess I shouldn't laugh. It actually is the way I would have done it too!!! LoL
This is not an instructional video. I'm a vlog channel and this is video is part of the journey with this truck. If you want to learn how to do parking brakes, then Please find the video that says "how-to" or some equivalent heading.
You were having a rough time with your truck, it happens when your tired and can't think right. Not sure if you roughed up the drum surface where the parking brake shoes ride. That surface needs a good tooth so your little brake shoes grip the surface. To get brake rotors off a BFH and a block of wood whack the rotor turn it whack it. The cost of rotors nowadays are cheap if I have a really stuck rotor it gets sacrificed and I whack directly on the rotor with a hammer. My 05 F350 pickup gets rear brake rotors every 2 years the front rotors are the same we get about 15,000-20,000kms (9300-12,000 miles) out of a set of brakes. It can be less when a caliper decides to seize and it makes you do pads and rotors.
Hey Gt, Yeah, I used some 60 or 80 grit and sanded across the drum to give it some tooth. I came real close to hitting the braking surface with a BFH and replacing it after... but for better or worse, I stuck with the original plan.
A man of patience and very honest to show us your screw up respect dude
Much respect for showing it all and for not losing it. Your videos are great and I like your calm, low-key presentation. Thanks!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
DAMN Steve you need a vacation. Just go up to el Rancho and do absolutely nothing for a few days. Unwind and relax and enjoy the peace and solitude of the mountains.
Keep the great videos coming.
Thanks for sharing and God bless
Roy, I could not agree with you more. I am hoping for a week or so up at El Rancho in July...the only real task up there right now is to cut grass...and who doesn't love riding on a tractor cutting grass!!!!
Ohhh, MAN..., feeling your pain here.
I reckon we’ve all had days like that, I know I’ve had plenty.
Usually, my problem is that I just want to get it done ASAP so I can go do something else more fun.
In recent years, as I’m getting older, I’ve wised up a little and now just try to slow myself down and stay focussed on the job in hand. Still goes wrong sometimes but not as often.
Love your videos, keep em coming.
Thanks for watching Kevin. Right now focus is difficult...I can't help but think how long my to-do list is. But it will settle down as I get caught up. Being injured really threw a wrench in the gears.
Good video, but for anyone interested, it's easier to adjust the pads to the drum as you put the drum back on.
Spin the adjuster with your hand with the drum off, then put the rotor on. It should slide on with some drag when you're good.
Dude I feel your pain! We just did this job on my sons' '06 2500, only we did new axle seals on both sides as well. The advantage we had was he was replacing the rotors as well so we used a rotary hammer and a 5 lb sledge to get those old rotors off. Although while going to town on the first rusted rotor the jack stand decided it had enough and let go! Luckily we had a jack supporting the truck as well and we weren't injured, but were did have to stop to clean out our skivvies! lol The job still ended up taking us about 8 hours. The joys of owning heavy duty trucks......
I messed around with 1/2 ton trucks for a long time and always pushed them well beyond their capacities. Even with upgrades and improvements, you are still left with a 1/2 ton truck. For what I do, a heavy duty truck is what I need to own.... keeping them maintained is a whole different level of joy...hahaha. Glad all you got your truck fixed without any injuries. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
A little trick I picked up from someone to make adjustments easier. Is do the adjustment with the tires off just pull the rotor and adjust the star adjuster until you can just not slide the rotor back over the shoes and then back the adjuster off a couple notches. Then put that dust plug on with the rotor off so its easier to get in with a pick on the other side. The only time I do adjustment with everything on the wheel is when the shoes are getting worn down and you need to make minor adjustments.
I'll be doing this exact same thing. Unless we're talking semis that's the only time it's easy woth wheel and tire on. Onolder trailers you're exact comment is the way go go cause fuck cast spoke wheels lol
Sometimes starring at the sky is just what you need to get something completed
You know that's right....and it helped. Thanks
I’m getting ready to have mine done.
I was watching to see all that I need to know. And now I know the local break shop is going to get some of my money.
Thanks buddy.
At least you have the satisfaction of knowing the tire shop would have just left those plugs rattling around in the drum or wouldn't have put them back on at all. I've found doing the job right usually results in redundant work. I've gotta do the same job to both of my 2nd gen trucks. At least I know what to watch out for when doing mine. Thanks for that.
Thanks Dan, I have really not had good luck with shops in my area. I have come to realize that a little stress by doing it myself saves a TON of stress and spent money farming the work out. I guess I'm just used to my '99 Ram that had drum back brakes and those parking brakes could hold tight enough to stall the engine.
Thanks for making the video.
My last entire year has been like this.
Keep moving forward.
Thanks for watching. I just want to keep this channel 100% real.
I feel your pain. It's easy to get distracted on some of these tasks. I agree about tire shops not
torquing the lug nuts to specs. And sometimes they won't fully engage the socket with the nut, damaging the nut so you can't get a socket on.
I've had days like this, I feel for ya man. Great video.
Lucky your parking brake actuator lever is in good shape. I did rear brakes yesterday and the driver side sticks, had to drive it open with hammer and screwdriver. Guess I'll be doing new cables and hardware. Wish they would have put parking brake on driver's instead of axle. Don't feel bad, I had the caliper bracket on and started installing the caliper when I realized the rotor wasn't on.
You are getting better at this... excelsior!
lol... I think I can get it done blindfolded now.
Good honest video thanks it will help when I do my 2005
I am just about to do my parking brakes today, my first time with this style. Thank you for your video. I hope I don't end up laying on my shop floor. I think I know what to expect now. But now that I've said that...
Staring at the sky here I come!!!
You can do it!!! I believe in you !!! lol.
@@yourbeekeeper I got it done! Not as many problems. But I had to do them twice LoL
But a bad seal, old bearings and rotted backing plates was the kicker for me.
@@jamesakey5817 That's great to hear. Rust...Oh how I don't like rust. I am spoiled that I don't live in a place that salts the roads in the Winter or is a rust belt. Glad you got it sorted out, even if you did it twice... but that's twice the knowledge for the next time. Have a splendid weekend.
@@yourbeekeeper have a great one
Good vid - one of the things I wondered where if there were any self adj's.
I've learned one thing working on my own stuff; when there's a 50/50 chance, I am doomed.
hahaha... yeah, that's about right for me on a regular basis.. doomed. Thanks for watching.
We use a 2x4 and hammer to pop off the rotor. Just info.
Not dumb, just tired.
truth.
Good job.!! That's ok...it just gave you more experience.....
Yes it does!
Ooowwf 🤦🏻♂️🥵🥵🥵 I feel your pain. Thanks for posting. Huge help 🤙🏼
Glad it helped
I know your pain brother. I had a bad day 5 or 6 years ago when I changed the u-joints on my drive shaft on my old Durango. I forgot to put the c-clips back in. Test drive didn’t end well. Luckily there was no major damage and was fixable.
It's all part of this thing we call life...lol. Thanks for watching.
Few things. Your wheel seal is leaking. Be careful on lug torque. The factory changed it to a higher torque than the manual because the studs weren't stretch enough and the wheels were coming off. Hard to get off Lugnuts is more common on aluminum rims because sliding them over the steel stud will actually put aluminum dust in the threads and you lock it down when you thread on the steel nut and aluminum and steel have a reaction and welds itself. Finally, don't use chrome sockets extensions etc. on impacts.
Oof, been there buddy, can't remember the last time I went that deep into the compounding abyss, though! Frustrating for sure... I was wincing with you at the grommets but come the caliper what else is there but to laugh, take some time, and keep on keeping on. Hope all is well, be sure to take time for yourself!.. Even if it's just to lay there and stare at the sky every now and then :)
I can laugh at it now ... lol. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2007 3500. I went a little further, and took out the “scissor actuator” for the parking brake, as I found one of mine was rusted enough that it wasn’t engaging. Penetrating oil, and lube and I got it working again. Yes, tire shops always over-torque my lugs. I now cary a 30 some inch pipe in case I ever get a flat I have to change. Even at the specs of 145#s I don’t think the factory lug wrench can get off a tire that has been on a while.
Thanks for watching Ben, Appreciate the comment.
Stressful times. Prayers.
Thanks.
Stupid no not one bit Steve!! Stupid would of given up and said I don't need a parking brake!!
I have to tell my self regularly you have to slow down to go fast dummy!!
I miss just one thing or push through that little rubber plug into the drum and it will whip my a$$ the rest of the day !
Glad to see your recovery is going great and your back working on stuff !
Thanks Michael, it seems like for all of 2020 and for likely a few more months, I only really have one day a week to get all my own chores done. I have a long list and it starts my day already feeling the pressure.
I was about to do this job but after watching this I'm taking it to brake masters. Let them deal with it. I don't like doing drum brakes anyway.
Hey I have made so many errors on building this rv that I sometimes think I am crazy. I have had to redo so many things that I am wearing out the screw heads and had to replace some of them already. I tell myself that I am just not paying attention to what I am doing. I hope that it is all it is.
Don't be too hard on yourself we ALL have times like that. Sometimes you have to just step back and walk away for a few and then go back to it.
Hey Bobby, Mistakes are all part of the game. Hope your RV turns out exactly how you want....then enjoy the daylights out of it.
Bro I've been there. Laying on the concrete staring at the sky, frustrated by some mechanical nonsense. Great video.
On a side note - how are those tires wearing and how miles do you expect? Toyo RTs right? Considering them for my dually.
Thanks Matthew. Yes they are Toyo tires and let me just say that they came with the truck and I may be skewed in my opinion because I didn't have the pain of buying them outright (lol) ... also , I have never owned this brand of tires before so I am only speaking on this set. With that being said, I have put about 13k miles on the tires and really like them. They handle dry, wet and snow covered pavement well. As with any deep lug tire they get gravel stuck in them from my driveway. I get red, sticky mud at my ranch and they don't clear the mud from treads like more aggressive mud terrain tires I have had on my trucks in the past. They are wearing nicely. The previous owner had all the front axle steering components replaced and wheels aligned when he put the tires on, so that may have something to do with how well they are holding up. My friend has an '04 Ford F-350 and always runs these tires on it. He loves them and said he typically gets 40k miles on the tires. His truck is a bit of a pavement queen and spends 85% of the time on asphalt. He builds custom cars and regularly tows a gooseneck 2-car trailer.
@@yourbeekeeper Thanks! These are in the running due to reasonable road manners. Down here in Texas my tires see 2 things - asphalt and mud. Sure is hard to do both.
That’s cool man! Way to overcome adversity and succeed..
Did you have to adjust the cable after setting the brake shoes with the star nut?
Just picked up my truck from the local Shaub Ellis ( Les Schwab Alaska ) complete brake job; new rotors, calipers, pads, fluid, etc.. The mechanic alerted me to the poor condition of the parking brake, I agreed to the extra labor and parts. Now my brake doesn’t hold at all, pedal goes to the floor, truck rolls.. I am tempted to ask them to refund the extra labor they charged me and adjust them myself. However, after monkeying around with the pad adjustments, it seems a cable adjustment is necessary.. thoughts??
Hope all is well man!
HI Shane, If you got new rear rotors, I would hope the installer would have cross-sanded the parking brake drum before putting them on. This is a holding brake and not a stopping brake, so cross sanding is a big improvement to how well the brakes hold. With that being said, once the shoes are properly adjusted, the cable is the final way to get them to hold. I tightened my cable adjuster so there was no slack in the cabling system. I'm sure you know this, but be sure not to adjust the cable too tight or the brakes will drag...just enough to take up the slack yet not so tight that they keep the brake arm (at the backing plate) from returning to full retracted position. Best of luck with your truck!!!!
I've had days like that.
It's all part of life... and I can laugh at it now.. but It sure is irritating while you're in the moment. Thanks for watching.
That was the most accurate representation I have ever seen of working on a car in a driveway. I can’t wait to take my wheels on and off multiple times when I do this. Lol. I also noticed what looked like a laparoscopic surgical instrument on your tailgate at one point. How did you happen upon that or did you get it for something specific?
haha...yes, unfortunately when you don't do this type of work on a regular basis, you sometimes make mistakes. Yes, that instrument was found at a garage sale along with a few other forceps . The really come in handy to grab things in tight spots. Thanks for watching.
I guess you know that you loose quite a lot of torque with an extension bar, and even with deep socket, and I discovered that my air impact, its much stronger with a lager diameter hose.
Yeah, I do realize that. Thanks. These lug nuts are fairly long and a standard 13/16" socket doesn't capture the entire surface of the nut. I could have absolutely not used that extension...honestly not sure why I had it on there in the first place...lol.
You'll lose some, but in many cases you don't have a choice. A few ft lbs won't make, or break having your wheel come off.
Those are the mistakes one makes when tired!! I do it all the time!
Would have liked to have seen more detail of actual attachment of shoes to backing
They are set-up like a very traditional drum brake assembly. There are plenty of pictures/diagrams on the web of how the hardware works with the shoes.
@@yourbeekeeper I realize that. I'm referring to the retainers and springs part. The actual re attaching them . Because they weren't like any drum breaks I've worked on and I'm 70 years old . Maybe in basic theory and a little in design. I'm just saying if the design engineers would have taken 5 minuets to look at they could have improved on it. I really felt the design and attachment of the springs and retainers could have been substantially better
I wish I could have seen how you removed the E brake and how you adjusted it. I can replace brakes but I have never messed with the E brake adjustment or install. I appreciate the video and I share in your pain buddy.
The brake shoes are essentially the same as traditional drum brakes. The star adjusters are adjusted the same as drum brakes... get them so they are close to the drum with little to no drag. The actual adjustment comes from the hardware along the drivers side of the frame...get the slack out of the cable and you will be good.
I believe you installed your star adjusting nut on backwards on the passenger side. As long as you can get to it I guess it won't matter but the star wheel should have been towards the front of the truck not the rear. Remember how they're adjusted; rotate the star downward on the passenger side to tighten and upwards on the driver side to tighten. Look at your own video (9:45) when you removed the passenger side shoes. Star wheel was facing forward.
I could be wrong , but think those are refereed to as a Hat Rotor . lol i know the feeling on the adjuster boots getting pushed in , One thought is , only rubber , next thought , No , i have to take it apart again , darn darn darn . , Sorry but had to chuckle on the caliper ,
I was very close to just being done and letting them get ground up ... but then my crazy head would always be thinking of them in there...and the dust and water getting into the open port.. then...then...then...aaaaaarrrrrrgggghhh!!!! hahahaha. The caliper was just silly...I remember thinking as I torqued down the last lug nut..."boy that was fast". lol. Thanks for watching T.
One thing about it.....You will definitely know how to do parking brakes on a 05 Dodge 2500!! HaHaHa Hard lesson well learned here! I guess I shouldn't laugh. It actually is the way I would have done it too!!! LoL
lol...after this, I can do them blindfolded.
Darn I hate when that happens. lol At least you didn't go for a test drive like that.
Thanks Scott, Yes, glad I caught it all before I drove it.
showing actual install of that bottom b@#tch of a spring would really help
I always do stupid like that too, when I rush on stuff.
Never enough time to slow down and do it right the first time....but always time to do it a second (or third) time after messing it up. lol.
@@yourbeekeeper LOL ain't that the truth!
What good is it to do an instructional video if you do the important steps in fast forward.
This is not an instructional video. I'm a vlog channel and this is video is part of the journey with this truck. If you want to learn how to do parking brakes, then Please find the video that says "how-to" or some equivalent heading.
You should always replace the hardware also
You were having a rough time with your truck, it happens when your tired and can't think right. Not sure if you roughed up the drum surface where the parking brake shoes ride. That surface needs a good tooth so your little brake shoes grip the surface. To get brake rotors off a BFH and a block of wood whack the rotor turn it whack it. The cost of rotors nowadays are cheap if I have a really stuck rotor it gets sacrificed and I whack directly on the rotor with a hammer. My 05 F350 pickup gets rear brake rotors every 2 years the front rotors are the same we get about 15,000-20,000kms (9300-12,000 miles) out of a set of brakes. It can be less when a caliper decides to seize and it makes you do pads and rotors.
I really like old school drums. They seem to last longer especially in the rust belt.
Alan They has their pros and cons after owning trucks with 4 wheel disk brakes I wouldn’t go back.
@@Graveltrucking yeah they've gotten better. Early discs were garage. Lots of my friends with super duties have problems
Hey Gt, Yeah, I used some 60 or 80 grit and sanded across the drum to give it some tooth. I came real close to hitting the braking surface with a BFH and replacing it after... but for better or worse, I stuck with the original plan.
Imagine if you did it for a living.
It's pathetic that tire shops make lug nuts that tight.
It's not all of them...just the lazy ones.
For starters, don't put anti seize on lug studs.