Mercedes Ke-Jetronic - The electronic part of the KE-Jetronic system
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
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Time code
0:00 Intro
0:08 - 0:22 About the video
0:23 - 1:37 Thanks/Join/Patreon
1:38 - 2:18 The continuation
2:19 - 2:59 Greeting a special person
3:00 - 6:20 The main components on the system
6:21 - 8:38 About the X11
8:39 - 9:30 About the ECU
9:31 - 9:41 About the fuel pump relay
9:42 - 12:01 About the OVP
12:02 - 13:50 The symptoms of a bad OVP
13:51 - 14:27 Checking my OVP
14:28 - 14:37 Checking the sensors
14:38 - 16:46 About the crankshaft position sensor
16:47 - 20:10 The coolant temperature sensor and its malfunctions
20:11 - 28:09 The sensor potentiometer and its malfunctions
28:10 - 28:32 About the TD signal wire
28:33 - 30:54 The potentiometer/continuation
30:55 - 34:29 The Throttle position sensor and its malfunctions
34:30 - 36:41 The micro switch and its malfunctions
36:42 - 39:13 CHECK YOUR WIRES ITS CONTINUITY AND VOLTAGE ON THE WIRES
39:14 - 43:27 About the lambda probe/O2 sensor and its malfunctions
43:28 - 46:22 About the hall speed sensor and its malfunctions
46:23 - 47:48 About the air intake temperature sensor
47:49 - 55:08 About the EHA in the last video and its malfunctions
55:09 - 56:59 Counting the pins on the ECU the proper way
57:00 - 57:49 Checking the cold start valve
57:50 - 58:47 About the MAS
58:48 - 60:56 About the KE5 ECU
60:57 - 62:07 About the idle control valve and its nominal values
62:08 - 67:56 About the three pin ICV and the symptoms of a bad ICV
67:57 -68:36 About the altitude sensor
68:37 - 69:23 Ending the video with my girls
What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierliche Einspritzung" meaning continuos injection, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(elektronische Gemischanpassung/electronically controlled mixture adaptation) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mA(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator, a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing" - Розваги
Maestro estupendo video pero hecho de menos que no sea en español para aprender con el. Animo desde España
I bookmarked this video! Great information and detail. ❤
👍👍👍Thanks and good luck on saturday. I will be watching the video the next day! Happy Mercedesing!
@@mercedeskeI’ve got a problem. I drained old fuel & put in 10 gals of new. This morning I made two pigtails for the positive and negative terminals for the fuel pumps. Then I rerouted the fuel line on distributor to a clear plastic 5 gal container. I then jumped the pumps. They come on and I hear them, but nothing comes out. I thought that maybe my power supply didn’t have the balls so I used a battery and I get the same results. Am I missing something? The only thing I can think of is a clogged line or filter. I might have to cancel Saturday and at least change the fuel filter by the pumps.
Hi man, thanks for making these vids. I'm new to mercedes and they are a great help for me trying to figure out how it work.
I recently bought a w126 with the m103 to start my mercedes adventure. It sat for a couple months in a collector's garage, but we were able to jump it and it seemed to run fine. I drove it home and a couple more times throughout the day. Then the next morning I try to start it and it barely runs, eventually it idles, but very roughly. I park it 50 metres away in a safe spot to inspect, but since then it hasn't ran anymore. Cranks well but won't fire up. I'm afraid I'm missing something blatantly obvious at this point! Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks!!
I tried the following things:
Replaced the battery
Unplugged the aftermarket alarm system
Changed spark plugs, wires. Checked the spark and it's strong
Replaced the fuel pump (Bosch)
No noise/beep when turning the ignition (fuel doesn't prime?)
Also can't hear the fuel pump running when ignition on with ear next to the pump
Fuel pump runs perfectly when putting external power directly to it
Checked the fuel pump relay on the bench and also works, can hear it click and checked continuity
Tried bridging the fuel pump relay multipoe times, doesn't do anything
OVP relay clicks and checked on bench. Fuse was good, also replaced it to be sure
Checked fuses for continuity, all good if I haven't missed any
I'm starting to suspect something is wrong with the wiring/connections somewhere between the back of the car (fuel pump) and the relay in the front. I started to tear back the carpet. In the booth everything looks fine and going to the front too. In the passenger side foot well I can see a pin connection. My next plan is to measure continuity from there to the pump and from there to the relay. This is quite a job if I have to take out the dash, so I'm wondering if I'm missing something here that I haven't tried!
s!
Thank you !!!!
My pleasure, always!
Thank you for the wonderful videos, you are a real professional, does the ezl get a constant 12v or is it wrong because I have a consumption of 0.36A when the car is off?
Hello and thanks. The EZL has contact 15(ignition ON) and the ground(31). It shouldn't have consumption while the engine is off.
@@mercedeske Thanks for the answer, where could the problem be?
You always get creative with your videos, dude. But I have a problem for which I could not find a solution. After repairing the OVP, the fuel consumption rate increased significantly. What is the reason, in your opinion? (E200 92 with M102 injectors)
Check the sensors, check the mechanical part, wiring...
I'm late in responding, sorry. I mention that I have sensors that are still good, but the fuel distributor has sensors that do not work. Can you tell me what sensors it has?@@mercedeske
I'm late in responding, sorry. I mention that I have sensors that are still good, but the fuel distributor has sensors that do not work. Can you tell me what sensors it has?@@mercedeske
@@W-124s None. It's purely mechanical unit. It has filters inside, no sensors.
@mercedeske OK Thank you
Why does my 230E has bad fuel milage. It does 5kmpl in city.
Have you checked the mechanical part of the system and the sensors?
@mercedeske I did.
Installed these parts
1.Accumilator and new fuel filter
2. Air filter new
3. Entire distributor with throttle body(this fixed long crank to start)
4.Regulator
5.O2 sensor
6.Bosh plugs 4x and wires
7. Distributor rotor and cap
What should be the correct consumption in city. I have seen people say about 7 to 8kmpl. That's fair.
@@hashanjayakody8240 Have you replaced the injectors?
@@mercedeske yes all 4.
The potentiometer?
Maestro este video sería muy bueno en español para poder entenderlo mejor .saludos