Congratulations on the successful relaunch of your orbiting camera! Thanks for using my controller on this project! And thank you too for the generous remarks regarding design elements I used in making this device. I am happy to make any program or other changes that will make it better in your application. Ken
I would add an idler gear to keep the belt under some constant tension. Should help a lot during changes in direction as currently i expect one side is under tension the other side is slack.
what a fantastic controller. That would be great in conjunction with a camera slider also. Why didn't you mount the control box on the wall facing you?
I misread that as “What a fantastic chandelier”. (My eyes aren’t what they used to be.) That gives me ideas… When you say “camera slider” do you mean moving the camera along the arm? I don’t see the point of that. Something else? I think you’re right about mounting the controller at least so that the display is visible. Also, i personally would disable that jump ahead feature. Whacking into the micro switch like that would be bad. OTOH there might be enough slippage in the belt that no damage would be done. (Dear Mr. O’Stuff- is it too soon to ask if there’s any progress on the skycam?)
thanks @markfergerson2145. A camera slider is generally some kind of trolley, with a camera mount, that runs along a rail of some sort. MarkusPix has a good video on using low tech methods to getting interesting shots using camera sliders and it explains sliders much better than me.
The skycam remains dormant until I am motivated to learn enough about how to code the bloody thing. And, as I may have mentioned, I really don't enjoy coding. That motivation is hard to come by.
Nice move combining two DIY projects ;) .. I could imagine a couple more iterations though.. 2nd and 3rd axis.. image detection and following .. 5g acceleration .. maybe some day it makes coffee, walks the dog and folds your laundry :D
Why not ground the arm and just have springy wire connected to the direction control instead of the switches, that would be more silent than switches... you could just rub off some of the anodising where the contacts need to meet the arm.
I already had the miscroswitches set up from the previous iterations that needed a combination of normally open and normally closed switches. No need to start fully from scratch with each iteration on the project.
Sweet project. I like how the end stop is from a microwave oven. What filament type did you use? I ordered some of those closed loop servo conversion boards recently. I have some of the 5160 Bob boards. I'm surprised the circuit doesn't need a better dac/adc to get the resolution those tmc boards allow. You can drive them at 48v as well but most buck converters are only good to 31 or so if your logic board is running at 5v. Have you considered my new pc parts offer kent haha.
I would have used an AC synchronous motor. The type used for microwave turntables. They are quiet and run slowly. The speed can be adjusted by changing the frequency.
I've done a few projects with microwave turntable motors, but always get a problem of jerky motion. Maybe there is a way to get smooth motion, but I don't know of one.
I'm sure there are dozens of other ways I could have tried with this project. The first version was based on what I had on hand, and I iterated from there.
You should of put the controller on the back wall this way you could see the display also to mount your camera mount put a small wood strap on the wall this way you can put the back of the mount in the space and then just screw the front of the mount to your shelf. Enjoy your channel for a year now and im also a hobbyists since the 1976 with TTL chips making light chasers and fixing things. My career was mechanics and steel trade machinist.
Congratulations on the successful relaunch of your orbiting camera! Thanks for using my controller on this project! And thank you too for the generous remarks regarding design elements I used in making this device. I am happy to make any program or other changes that will make it better in your application. Ken
That controller is so well designed and built.
Having started my new career as an electrician. Awkward positions is a common thing for me now.
I would add an idler gear to keep the belt under some constant tension. Should help a lot during changes in direction as currently i expect one side is under tension the other side is slack.
what a fantastic controller. That would be great in conjunction with a camera slider also. Why didn't you mount the control box on the wall facing you?
I misread that as “What a fantastic chandelier”. (My eyes aren’t what they used to be.) That gives me ideas…
When you say “camera slider” do you mean moving the camera along the arm? I don’t see the point of that. Something else?
I think you’re right about mounting the controller at least so that the display is visible. Also, i personally would disable that jump ahead feature. Whacking into the micro switch like that would be bad. OTOH there might be enough slippage in the belt that no damage would be done.
(Dear Mr. O’Stuff- is it too soon to ask if there’s any progress on the skycam?)
thanks @markfergerson2145. A camera slider is generally some kind of trolley, with a camera mount, that runs along a rail of some sort. MarkusPix has a good video on using low tech methods to getting interesting shots using camera sliders and it explains sliders much better than me.
I wanted the entire unit mounted to a single relatively easily removable platform.
The skycam remains dormant until I am motivated to learn enough about how to code the bloody thing.
And, as I may have mentioned, I really don't enjoy coding. That motivation is hard to come by.
Nice move combining two DIY projects ;) .. I could imagine a couple more iterations though.. 2nd and 3rd axis.. image detection and following .. 5g acceleration .. maybe some day it makes coffee, walks the dog and folds your laundry :D
Very nice. Now you need a project to implement its use. I look forward (or down) to it.
Kent get some really good double sided tape mskeit easier to position those switches 🙈
Very nice. And quiet it seems. Very nice for time lapses with some music underneath.
Why not ground the arm and just have springy wire connected to the direction control instead of the switches, that would be more silent than switches... you could just rub off some of the anodising where the contacts need to meet the arm.
I already had the miscroswitches set up from the previous iterations that needed a combination of normally open and normally closed switches.
No need to start fully from scratch with each iteration on the project.
beautiful! Store unavailable.
Yeah, they're aware of it. Just an inconvenient time for their site to crash.
I meant to tell you. That pod go you have still gets software updates ehh
Oh GREAT !.... You have triggered my " MOTION SICKNESS " problem ! 🤣 Looks good to me.
Sweet project. I like how the end stop is from a microwave oven.
What filament type did you use?
I ordered some of those closed loop servo conversion boards recently.
I have some of the 5160 Bob boards. I'm surprised the circuit doesn't need a better dac/adc to get the resolution those tmc boards allow. You can drive them at 48v as well but most buck converters are only good to 31 or so if your logic board is running at 5v.
Have you considered my new pc parts offer kent haha.
It's just plain PLA - whatever I happened to have in the printer at the time.
I would have used an AC synchronous motor. The type used for microwave turntables. They are quiet and run slowly. The speed can be adjusted by changing the frequency.
I've done a few projects with microwave turntable motors, but always get a problem of jerky motion. Maybe there is a way to get smooth motion, but I don't know of one.
Could you not have made a treadle linkage design?
I'm sure there are dozens of other ways I could have tried with this project.
The first version was based on what I had on hand, and I iterated from there.
You should of put the controller on the back wall this way you could see the display also to mount your camera mount put a small wood strap on the wall this way you can put the back of the mount in the space and then just screw the front of the mount to your shelf. Enjoy your channel for a year now and im also a hobbyists since the 1976 with TTL chips making light chasers and fixing things. My career was mechanics and steel trade machinist.
FYI.... Your Product link in the Description returns "Sorry, this store is currently unavailable." as of this comment.
Thanks, I've emailed them to let them know.
thanks - I am checking with my partner now to get it fixed
did i see a cluster of 3 flickering led on top panel in phone reflection
Maybe. The LEDs in my overhead light have been showing their age (and cheapness) occasionally.