I have the same exact fan, it works very well with the exception of being leaky on airflow around those clamps and the backside. Tape the devil out of it to seal it up and you'll never have any issues. The one fan runs all of my shop's extraction: 2 CO2 lasers, diode, and 2 galvo lasers.
Thanks Sam, I was going to ask you what fan you installed as it seemed to work very well in your setup. I'll be doubling back and adding some tape around it to ensure I'm not getting fumes leaking out.
I agree I have one like this and it is no where near air tight enough. Now it could be that I gave it set up like host with 4 inch going to the 6 inch fan then out to a 4 inch exit vent. I have taped it with painters tape as I don't want to make it too permanent. Great video
Great job but one suggestion. Use a “wye” connection vs a “T.” You call it a Wye but it’s actually a T. You will find a smooth wye that you can direct the air to flow smoothly in the direction of the flow of the exhaust air.
You are correct that it's best to use a Wye connector when possible. In this case with how close the pipe is to the back of the lasers and the fact that the lasers output is straight out the back of the machine, a 45 Y would have created a sharp bend at the back of the laser possibly creating a more turbulent flow than the T connectors I have here. I was reusing an older port going outside the shop. If I was to do it again, I would have the outlet up higher allowing more flexibility in making smoother bends in the pipe when needed. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the topic, I have been looking forward to seeing modifications to the S1. I am running an AC Infinity 4" with good results, though I plan to remove the internal fan in the near future as is offsetting the true potential of the inline. Please keep us posted if you remove the fan from your machine.
If I work out a way to remove the fan without erroring out the laser and hopefully not voiding the warranty, I'll be sure to share that. I'd hate to recommend anything that would cause people issues with support of their machine, and if I do, it will have a big disclaimer on it.
So, what about flame detection and auto fire suppression with the inline fan? I have a similar set up on my S1, but have not yet figured out a way to shut it down during a fire (without hitting the fan switch manually). Had a fire on my D1 and forgot to hit the inline fan switch, so sucked all the fire suppression before putting out the fire. Had to turn off inline fan manually and hit it with the fire extinguisher again. Cooked my wiring, but no damae to the laser head (just luck though).
Would you really want to turn the fan ON in a fire? Air flowing out means air is coming in somewhere; it's not a vacuum. For oven fires and most anything contained in a relatively enclosed box you just shut off and leave it closed. Let smoke build and suffocate itself. Open it up to try and air out smoke and it will breathe and flare. I could be way off base here which is why im asking it as a question. But more air flow either direction seems sus
Love that you anticipated for easy maintenance. If I have to break out a ladder and a tool belt it'll never happen, lol. I'll be pulling through a DIY fume box (3 furnace filters and charcoal), before venting outside. Do you think the 6" would handle it? My runs will be nearly identical to yours, with whatever pipe diameters work best, (using an anamometer).
There are a number of variables to that on how disrupted the airflow would be. In this case I would go with 6" straight walled pipe as much as you can and keep the bends and sharp corners to a minimum.
@@Vintauri I just learnt you can run inline fans in series, WOOT-WOOT. If the 6 or 8 inch fan I mount to the wall doesn't pull through the filters, I can put a fan on the filter box, and tap in with wyes and blast gates...who'd of thunk?
I have the typical flap on the outside that opens when the fan is on, but it can also sometimes open a bit if the wind is right. It would not hurt to put another blast gate or valve at the exit to provide another barrier if you feel the need.
Yeah that may help, the P2 has some inlet space on the lower front where the crumb tray slides in and the S1 with the riser has lots of area where air can leak in. But having some air pulled in from the front would definitely help.
Good video ... comes at the right time! I just finished an enclosure based on the plans on your Etsy site (mine is larger to accommodate my ATEZR P20), using a 195cfm fan from Vivosun. Right now, I am running a flex hose out under the garage door, but plan to run metal pipe through the wall later this spring. A file to cut pipe supports would sure come in handy (SVG or Lightburn)! Any plans to add that to your store?
Yes I'll be tweaking the clamp files and will have them available soon. You'll like the increased flow from straight smooth pipe over the flex hose. Thanks for watching!
Great solution Steve, i have a similar setup, though not as neat. Is the bracket file available, brilliant idea. I've forgot so many times to open gates.
I find that diode lasers can give a better engraving on some materials compared to the Co2 lasers, while the Co2 excels at other things like acrylic. It’s nice having options and the ability to run multiple jobs on separate machines.
Good video, looks great. Do either of the lasers have any filtration before exiting the enclosure? I have my Ikier 48w in a homemade enclosure, cutting and engraving created so much smoke that the inline fan and the screen outside the garage actually became clogged with smoke residue. My solution was to use A/C filter cut to cover the 4" exhaust flange inside the inclosure. It takes about 20 seconds to replace it and when I have a pile of dirty filters, I just wash them out in the sink and re-use. They do a great job of keeping all the smutz out of the inline fan and exhaust port.
I do not run any filters on this setup. As you’ve noticed you do have to clean the fan and outlet or it will build up residue from the smoke and vapors.
Did you already have the 4inch galvinized pipe before you added the 6inch inline? I know youre aware that you lose alot of CFM because the pipe isnt 6inches. Using 4inch pipe out of each laser into the 6inch main would be perfect. It still looks better than mine with black flex. I had to cover the end with fine stainless wire mess to prevent birds or wasps making nests against the damper.
Yes I already had most of the 4" piping from my previous set up. So before spending too much on extra piping I thought I would see how it worked out with this. I also might move things around and then I'll look into the 6" piping as it will be much better and might allow me to add more ports for other lasers as well.
Do you have a link for the elbow at the front exhaust? I’m looking to do a better exhaust system for when my M2 30W gets here. I’m planning to vent out the window.
I have the same exact fan, it works very well with the exception of being leaky on airflow around those clamps and the backside. Tape the devil out of it to seal it up and you'll never have any issues. The one fan runs all of my shop's extraction: 2 CO2 lasers, diode, and 2 galvo lasers.
Thanks Sam, I was going to ask you what fan you installed as it seemed to work very well in your setup. I'll be doubling back and adding some tape around it to ensure I'm not getting fumes leaking out.
I agree I have one like this and it is no where near air tight enough. Now it could be that I gave it set up like host with 4 inch going to the 6 inch fan then out to a 4 inch exit vent. I have taped it with painters tape as I don't want to make it too permanent. Great video
Nice exhaust setup!
Thanks! It’s working well so far!
Nice and clean install.
Thanks! Every little bit of shop organization helps keep things easier to use and thus keeps my motivation and productivity up!
Awesome video! I will need this as a reference later.....I have a long wall that everything will eventually get set up on. Great info!
If you have the room go with 6” piping right away. It will help maximize the airflow and allow more machines to be added.
Great job but one suggestion. Use a “wye” connection vs a “T.” You call it a Wye but it’s actually a T. You will find a smooth wye that you can direct the air to flow smoothly in the direction of the flow of the exhaust air.
You are correct that it's best to use a Wye connector when possible. In this case with how close the pipe is to the back of the lasers and the fact that the lasers output is straight out the back of the machine, a 45 Y would have created a sharp bend at the back of the laser possibly creating a more turbulent flow than the T connectors I have here. I was reusing an older port going outside the shop. If I was to do it again, I would have the outlet up higher allowing more flexibility in making smoother bends in the pipe when needed. Thanks for watching!
Nice and clean. I like it.
Thanks! Every little bit of shop organization helps!
Awesome setup. Great work.
Thanks! Hopefully it helps me with being more productive and less shuffling things in the shop.
Excellent!!! This is super helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the topic, I have been looking forward to seeing modifications to the S1. I am running an AC Infinity 4" with good results, though I plan to remove the internal fan in the near future as is offsetting the true potential of the inline. Please keep us posted if you remove the fan from your machine.
If I work out a way to remove the fan without erroring out the laser and hopefully not voiding the warranty, I'll be sure to share that. I'd hate to recommend anything that would cause people issues with support of their machine, and if I do, it will have a big disclaimer on it.
So, what about flame detection and auto fire suppression with the inline fan? I have a similar set up on my S1, but have not yet figured out a way to shut it down during a fire (without hitting the fan switch manually). Had a fire on my D1 and forgot to hit the inline fan switch, so sucked all the fire suppression before putting out the fire. Had to turn off inline fan manually and hit it with the fire extinguisher again. Cooked my wiring, but no damae to the laser head (just luck though).
Would you really want to turn the fan ON in a fire? Air flowing out means air is coming in somewhere; it's not a vacuum.
For oven fires and most anything contained in a relatively enclosed box you just shut off and leave it closed. Let smoke build and suffocate itself. Open it up to try and air out smoke and it will breathe and flare.
I could be way off base here which is why im asking it as a question. But more air flow either direction seems sus
Love that you anticipated for easy maintenance. If I have to break out a ladder and a tool belt it'll never happen, lol.
I'll be pulling through a DIY fume box (3 furnace filters and charcoal), before venting outside. Do you think the 6" would handle it? My runs will be nearly identical to yours, with whatever pipe diameters work best, (using an anamometer).
There are a number of variables to that on how disrupted the airflow would be. In this case I would go with 6" straight walled pipe as much as you can and keep the bends and sharp corners to a minimum.
@@Vintauri I just learnt you can run inline fans in series, WOOT-WOOT.
If the 6 or 8 inch fan I mount to the wall doesn't pull through the filters, I can put a fan on the filter box, and tap in with wyes and blast gates...who'd of thunk?
Nice clear explanation. Just wondering if there is a check valve at the outside to prevent wind forcing its way in?
I have the typical flap on the outside that opens when the fan is on, but it can also sometimes open a bit if the wind is right. It would not hurt to put another blast gate or valve at the exit to provide another barrier if you feel the need.
I think the big improvement would come from some inlet vents along the front face of the machines.
Yeah that may help, the P2 has some inlet space on the lower front where the crumb tray slides in and the S1 with the riser has lots of area where air can leak in. But having some air pulled in from the front would definitely help.
Good video ... comes at the right time! I just finished an enclosure based on the plans on your Etsy site (mine is larger to accommodate my ATEZR P20), using a 195cfm fan from Vivosun. Right now, I am running a flex hose out under the garage door, but plan to run metal pipe through the wall later this spring. A file to cut pipe supports would sure come in handy (SVG or Lightburn)! Any plans to add that to your store?
Yes I'll be tweaking the clamp files and will have them available soon. You'll like the increased flow from straight smooth pipe over the flex hose. Thanks for watching!
vintaurisworkshop.etsy.com/listing/1698178253
Thanks!@@Vintauri
Great solution Steve, i have a similar setup, though not as neat. Is the bracket file available, brilliant idea. I've forgot so many times to open gates.
I've just added them to my Etsy shop! vintaurisworkshop.etsy.com/listing/1698178253
Very nice. Do you have the plans for those clamps anywhere? They look so much nicer than the straps.
I'm going to make some adjustments and also sort out the 6" size and then I'll make them available soon.
vintaurisworkshop.etsy.com/listing/1698178253
likely putting less strain on the motor as long is heat is dissipated enough to cool motor windings.
I’ve been running a similar setup in my basement shop for over a year and while that does not seem heavy use, it’s not failed me yet.
Thank you! Very nice video… but why do you have a s1 if you have a p2?
I find that diode lasers can give a better engraving on some materials compared to the Co2 lasers, while the Co2 excels at other things like acrylic. It’s nice having options and the ability to run multiple jobs on separate machines.
Good video, looks great. Do either of the lasers have any filtration before exiting the enclosure? I have my Ikier 48w in a homemade enclosure, cutting and engraving created so much smoke that the inline fan and the screen outside the garage actually became clogged with smoke residue. My solution was to use A/C filter cut to cover the 4" exhaust flange inside the inclosure. It takes about 20 seconds to replace it and when I have a pile of dirty filters, I just wash them out in the sink and re-use. They do a great job of keeping all the smutz out of the inline fan and exhaust port.
I do not run any filters on this setup. As you’ve noticed you do have to clean the fan and outlet or it will build up residue from the smoke and vapors.
Did you already have the 4inch galvinized pipe before you added the 6inch inline? I know youre aware that you lose alot of CFM because the pipe isnt 6inches. Using 4inch pipe out of each laser into the 6inch main would be perfect.
It still looks better than mine with black flex. I had to cover the end with fine stainless wire mess to prevent birds or wasps making nests against the damper.
Yes I already had most of the 4" piping from my previous set up. So before spending too much on extra piping I thought I would see how it worked out with this. I also might move things around and then I'll look into the 6" piping as it will be much better and might allow me to add more ports for other lasers as well.
Where does the piping lead after it leaves the workshop?
It goes straight outside through the wall.
Do you have a link for the elbow at the front exhaust? I’m looking to do a better exhaust system for when my M2 30W gets here. I’m planning to vent out the window.
Here is one on Amazon - amzn.to/43yMqch Or Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-90-Deg-Round-Adjustable-Elbow-B90E4/100033952
Did you remove the internal fan of the p2? It now spins faster than it was intended to or not?
I did remove the fan in the P2 as it would just slow down the air flow leaving it in.
Thank you! I will do that as well... So no odor any more?
That guy was right. Really an exhausting video.And it kind of sucked.
🤣😂😆