OMG! Absolutely Amazing! I was stuck on the side of the road waiting for CAA to arrive within 90mins, in the middle of nowhere. After watching this video, it took me 5 mins to remove the seized tire. Total life saver! Thank You!!!🤩
Bought a car with one of the lugnuts missing...never seen anything this stuck, nothing worked, ankle injury kicking tire along the way...until i tried your method!!! Bravo sir
Anti-seize on the hub is what I have done for years. Works pretty well 90% of the time. Light amount of course. Also a wire brush to clean off the hub before I reinstall.
Awesome tip. I was unsuccessful with all the other tips available but your tip of shaking the car was the one that helped me. Appreciate sharing this precious info
Hey, I like your tip on stuck wheels. We’re about the same age and I learned something here. I’m not too arrogant to learn things from others. You have great energy and you made a great video. Thank you much👍🏻
I just had this problem. For anyone else that does, if all else fails. Losing the bolts like he did in the video. And drive the car back and forth 2 feet when the car is back on the ground. I read that on a forum and it worked for me. Not sure if it's the best idea so I say only do it in a worse case scenario. Also good video, it did help me out a bit.
That'll work. If rocking in the driveway hadn't worked, then I would have driven around the block. They'd certainly break free from that. Thanks for visiting.
This worked first time for me, alloy wheels were stuck on. I heard the dull click as I lowered the jack, many many thanks for sharing this. Some anti seize when they go back on.
Very neat idea…aluminum wheels do love to stick to steel rotors…a tiny bit of anti-seize around the center does wonders. And there’s a wheel alignment stud you can use on the studded wheels like VW that works great for removing and replacing.
Thanks for the note! I've since been allowing Discount Tire to do my rotations as part of their tire warranty. The techs hit my hub faces with rotary wire brushes at each rotation. Seems to do the trick. Take care!
Glad it helped! Lately, I've been having "Discount Tire" do my rotations to maintain their warranty. They do a good job of cleaning the hub faces each time; so, I haven't seen them struggle with removing any wheels. Thanks for visiting!
I usually brush off the hub and clean it with brake clean then a thin film of antiseize on the contact points. Just a tiny little brushing so it's barely there and it does a good job. This is a great tip though! My rear wheels get stuck as well. Not sure what makes these cars do this moreso than others
Big thank you for this. I wish I’d watched this before attacking my alloys with a lump of wood!! Worked a charm after all else had failed. Little note- mine were REALLY stuck. Rocking the car released the top edge initially. I had to wind the nuts all the way in , roll the car forward so the wheel was the opposite way up and then repeat the process to free it off completely.
On my 02 MK4 the first time ( 12+ years ago ) I went to remove my wheels ran into the same problem...My fix use scotch Brite pads to clean up the face of the rim and hub I originally started using lithium grease recently switched to Fluid Film you will always incur some sort of corrosion in the area. My GTI 1.8 T with 285 K Revo stage one flash, performance exhaust manifold- cold air intake- performance exhaust muffler. I keep her up to factory specs serviced by my local VW, the shop foreman and I have been good friends for about 12+ years now I just walk into the shop and we chat about any topic under the sun.
I have just used this method, but the rocking didn't work so I drove it round the block and that did the trick. All 4 wheels released easily. Yesterday I hit one wheel with a hammer and block, but nothing.
HAHA! To be honest, eight years serving afloat has made me no stranger to salty language. My wife's cats have foul mouths, too, if I'm the one translating for her. ;-) But I choose to keep my videos clean with the hope of broadening their appeal. Thanks for the sub!
Brilliant! Got a bit stuck what to do after a mallet and WD40 didn't help. The car was also on a slight slope so didn't want to shake it too much on the little roadside jack. Thanks! :)
Had this happen to me yesterday in a 2006 Ford Expedition. I had to put all the lugs nuts on hand tight and then I drove slow up and Dow the driveway a few times and that worked.
Thank you for posting this up. We have two Toyotas here at the house with aluminum rims that do exactly what you've described. Armed with this information winter changeover might be a little merrier this year !
Nice video. Normally if the wheel gets stuck, no need to rock the car, just drop the car jack suddenly, and the weight of the car will unstuck it. Making use of the dumb force of the car... but the rocking also works of course :-) I will always apply a very thin layer of Copper-grease on the hub. No more stuck wheels....
Glad you enjoyed it! Most cars today have metric parts. Therefore, I use metric tools and metric units of measure. :-) OH, I just realized where you heard me say "millimeter." In that case, it is a far more precise and brief descriptor than "thirty-second of an inch." HAHA! Take Care!
If you have rusty hubs just scotch-brite the hub, de-grease the surface and shoot it with some rust converter. It will create a barrier, turn the rust black, and is a paintable base if you want to paint the hubs as well
A helpful video for those in your situation but your concerns about anti-seize are largely unfounded. Yes, some people overdo it, but a very thin layer across the face of the hub and a slightly thicker layer around the center collar will prevent wheels from sticking. Been doing this for 20+ years with no issues and my wheels practically fall off the car every time I remove them. FYI, the problem is caused by dissimilar metal corrosion and the anti-seize becomes the sacrificial element (as opposed to your wheels!) so it's best to clean the hubs and re-apply every time you pull the wheels. Takes a couple extra minutes, but then you don't have to worry about the wheels sticking to the car, particularly on the side of the road when you have to change a spare in the rain.
Thanks for the tips. I didn't want to make the video any longer by explaining the corrosion. Good to know a tiny bit of anti-seize along the hub will not spread excessively.
@@StealthGTI unfortunately it didn't, they are really rusted on..bought an 8lb sledge today also and beat on it after I heated it up..not sure what I'm gonna do yet..lol.
@@joshwebber98 - Interesting. Try one additional turn of each lug bolt, then go for a SHORT drive, like around the block. The cornering forces may help break the bonds. Good Luck!
I was once under a bmw trying to kick off the tyre. Still no joy. We got it off by loosening the bolts half way and reversing the wheel up a kerb until it clicked. It came off clean once unscrewed.
It’s a good tip. I’d be interested to know the force exerted on the threads while doing this though as you’ve taken away the friction force between the bolt / wheel / hub to do this.
I don't imagine it's terrible since it only lasts a few seconds. Remember, I'm loosening just one turn, which may be about a millimeter. I forgot about another technique: during my research, I found that some mechanics will actually loosen the lugs (half-turn?) and drive the car around the block. I think what I'm doing is far less consequential. Thanks for visiting.
You may need a really long breaker bar. I prefer them over impact wrenches so that you can apply gentle, but increasingly more torque. It could be that the bolts will snap; so, be ready for that. If one breaks, then stop and go to a shop. Odds are good that the others will break, too. Better to have that happen someplace where they can be replaced right away. Good Luck!
One of the benefits of having spacer is it would not seize up the wheels to its spacer thus easy to remove them. No matter how much anti-seize I put never helped.
Thanks for the comment! No, unidirectional pressure is not enough. Some mechanics loosen the lugs and then drive around the block. But that much time/effort is not necessary. Rocking the car allows lateral pressure to free the wheels. Leaving the bolts mostly-installed ensures that the wheels don't shift TOO much. Take Care!
I've had this one for over 10 years: www.idparts.com/torque-limiting-socket-17mm-17mmtqsocket-hdt17c17-p-6245.html. I've seen similar sockets elsewhere... search the phrase "torque limiting socket" to find your size. To be clear, I use this to avoid overtightening. I still check each lug with an actual torque wrench to ensure correct specs. Thanks for visiting.
Thanks for noticing. I usually hand-torque them when the wheel is in the air, then torque to full spec on the ground... and check them a few days later.
Nice! I have some of the VW paste that someone recommended. I haven't tried it yet, but will certainly post a follow-up when I do. Thanks for visiting.
Jealous of car owners, as this is a little harder with a full sized truck with road salt seized tires. Rear tire was stuck last month so badly the only way I could remove it was with a tow strap on the tire, tow strap on a thick tree and a come-along between them. Came off like a shotgun blast lol. Only place I put anti-seize is behind my brake rotors, but placing them on the wheel itself just seems like a bad idea. Even a slight imbalance can introduce wobble at highway speeds.
The RSR is fantastic. It's holding very well. And, as stated in other videos, I can be a bit abusive with it. I'm APR Stage 2 (around 370 lb-ft) and tow trailers. Even with a trailer in tow, I don't mind putting my foot into the accelerator from time to time. My tires are sticky; so, rather than spinning, all of the torque pulling 4500 lbs of car/trailer is held at the clutch. The harshest thing I do with my clutch is backing a trailer up my inclined driveway, especially if it has a heavy load. I have to be careful when backing between my other cars. That means I'm backing at slower than idle speed, which requires slipping the clutch. This is particularly painful in the dark when I cannot see what I'm doing. See what I mean in this 20-second video segment: ua-cam.com/video/ByltEJerp1k/v-deo.html. Still, the clutch is doing great. It has almost 70,000 miles. Thanks for visiting.
StealthGTI Thanks. Most things I read about RSR are positive. I’m is20 swapped stage 2 on 2018 sportwagen 4MO and stock clutch is going (slippage started recently). Still debating between DMF setup like Sachs/RSR and some SMF stage 2 kit. I like the drivability of retaining DMF.
@@posimard8131 - When I replied, I forgot that we're in the "Sticky Wheels" video. If you haven't seen my "20 Questions" video, check out this sequence for my testimony about the RSR clutch: ua-cam.com/video/rOW8zgKdD0c/v-deo.html
With the lugs loosened about a millimeter, take the car for a SHORT drive at low speeds, including a turn or two. That will shift some weight along the hub faces. Good Luck!
Hmm very nice idea you got, you know what, when you pull out all the nuts and tried pulling out the tire and you kinda say "what the f _ _ _" i just giggled hahahaha i can relate, because im like you hours ago when i supposed to clean my break pads but to my dismay that happend, Thanks, will try that tomorow, by the way, i subscribed to your channel. Thanks again. Watching here in the Philippines
How many times have you changed the rear discs and pads? I have a sticky rear piston and don't know if it's needing a new caliper. It's a 2014 GTD I have and only 41k miles but it's got an epb on it so need to take it to the garage. Also my GTD comes with these wheels.👍
My brakes are still original. As for the sticky piston, a good mechanic will lube the pistons before pressing them back into the caliper during a brake job. Thanks for visiting.
@@StealthGTI original brakes wow! There's 6mm of pads left on the good side, on the sticky side they are 4mm and 5mm. I took the pads out and cleaned then greased the slide pins with silicone grease and put copper grease on the edges of the pads where they slide. But it's still sticking as the disc gets hot. I have seen video showing how to wind the epb back but don't want to try that incase I end up with a fault light on the dash. My discs are very rusty so I'm thinking I'll just get new discs/pads fitted when the garage opens after lockdown. Good shout in greasing the piston and hopefully it's ok.
This did not work for me. What did the trick was to loosen the bolts and whack it with a 4x4 endwise. Lots of force but made of wood so no damage. Another video had a guy who used a log so that's basically what I did with the 4x4. Mine was cut down to 3-4 feet long so not the entire 8' piece of lumber.
On the THREADS? Doesn't that affect the torque value by essentially lubricating the threads? I'd only consider putting the anti-seize on the mating surface of the hub. Thoughts? Thanks for commenting.
StealthGTI all you want is just a light coating, wipe off excess with a towel. If you torque it down to 85ft lbs, it’s still 85 ft lbs. Besides the steel studs can handle so much more. Same with the nub. Get a light coating, wipe off excess. I’ve been using this method for 10 years in the northeast, every time the wheel comes off easily. The trick is the "light " coating. After you wipe it should look like it has gray dust coating on it.
@@StealthGTI Yes absolutely on the threads is fine. Work it in with your fingers, wipe off excess with a towel, and then torque to spec. I've been doing this for decades on multiple vehicles, never an issue with torque retention on the studs/bolts. Feel free to coat the rim/hub mating surface as well. Unless one goes crazy over applying, there will not be antiseize flying around later. Nice tip to free the stuck rim BTW.
It doeesnt work i just tried it. When a tire is flat its not 100% so the rim kept moving as I was pushing the car and i and a skinny geezer like him i can bench 425 squat525 and deadlift 615. I almost brok the tail light i was rocking the car so hard
This is a very helpful video. VW has a paste to put on the hub to prevent corrsion, I put this paste on my car and it works great. her is the part number: (G052109A2) A little goes a long way :)
Two possibilities: 1) You can loosen the lugs 1mm more (one turn?) and/or 2) Instead of rocking the car, take it for a very short, SLOW drive... I'm talking about 500 feet... just enough to subject the car to a few bumps lateral forces, and light braking. Good Luck!
@@rickendicott1260 - If that doesn't work, then your only option, other than taking it to a pro, is to use a heavy mallet. Loosen (but don't remove) the lugs A LOT, then beat the wheels silly around the perimeter until they finally come off. Wire brush the flanges and wheel mating surfaces before putting them back on.
OMG! Absolutely Amazing! I was stuck on the side of the road waiting for CAA to arrive within 90mins, in the middle of nowhere. After watching this video, it took me 5 mins to remove the seized tire. Total life saver! Thank You!!!🤩
Amazing! Glad you found my video! Thanks for visiting!
You sir are an absolute legend, just spent 1 hour trying to get the wheel off, while waiting for breakdown service at 1am. Thank you
Thanks for the high praise! Glad my video helped you!
Every now and then, the internet spits out a gem. Today was one of those days. I thank you from the bottom of my rusty hubs.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for visiting!
Bought a car with one of the lugnuts missing...never seen anything this stuck, nothing worked, ankle injury kicking tire along the way...until i tried your method!!! Bravo sir
Glad it worked for you. Thanks for visiting!
@StealthGTI learn something everyday sir!
I don’t care who showed you, you’re a genius!!! 35 years on working on my own vehicles and today I learned something new!!! Thank you…
Excellent! I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Thanks for visiting!
Anti-seize on the hub is what I have done for years. Works pretty well 90% of the time. Light amount of course. Also a wire brush to clean off the hub before I reinstall.
Thanks for sharing your advice.
Awesome tip. I was unsuccessful with all the other tips available but your tip of shaking the car was the one that helped me. Appreciate sharing this precious info
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
I forgot all about this trick used to do this way back in the days. My Toyota prerunner Runner was seriously stuck in back great smart video
Glad to refresh your memory! Thanks for visiting.
Hey, I like your tip on stuck wheels. We’re about the same age and I learned something here. I’m not too arrogant to learn things from others. You have great energy and you made a great video. Thank you much👍🏻
Thanks for commenting, Ox! I still enjoying new things from time to time, too. I appreciate your comments regarding my recording style. Take Care!
I just had this problem. For anyone else that does, if all else fails. Losing the bolts like he did in the video. And drive the car back and forth 2 feet when the car is back on the ground. I read that on a forum and it worked for me. Not sure if it's the best idea so I say only do it in a worse case scenario. Also good video, it did help me out a bit.
That'll work. If rocking in the driveway hadn't worked, then I would have driven around the block. They'd certainly break free from that. Thanks for visiting.
@@StealthGTImoi j'ai mes 2 roue de derrière coller j'ai faire 7 km en prenant des courbe à 60 kmh et juste 1 sur 2 c'est libérer
Best tip, so far this year, 2 rocks and it was done! Cheers mate.
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
This worked first time for me, alloy wheels were stuck on. I heard the dull click as I lowered the jack, many many thanks for sharing this. Some anti seize when they go back on.
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
Very neat idea…aluminum wheels do love to stick to steel rotors…a tiny bit of anti-seize around the center does wonders. And there’s a wheel alignment stud you can use on the studded wheels like VW that works great for removing and replacing.
Thanks for the note! I've since been allowing Discount Tire to do my rotations as part of their tire warranty. The techs hit my hub faces with rotary wire brushes at each rotation. Seems to do the trick. Take care!
Great tip. Thank you! I appreciated the humor at the start of the video as I had the exact same thinking when my wheel stuck...wtf??? Lol
Glad it helped! Lately, I've been having "Discount Tire" do my rotations to maintain their warranty. They do a good job of cleaning the hub faces each time; so, I haven't seen them struggle with removing any wheels. Thanks for visiting!
I usually brush off the hub and clean it with brake clean then a thin film of antiseize on the contact points. Just a tiny little brushing so it's barely there and it does a good job. This is a great tip though! My rear wheels get stuck as well. Not sure what makes these cars do this moreso than others
Thanks for sharing your method.
It happened on my JK Jeep. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for visiting!
Big thank you for this. I wish I’d watched this before attacking my alloys with a lump of wood!! Worked a charm after all else had failed. Little note- mine were REALLY stuck. Rocking the car released the top edge initially. I had to wind the nuts all the way in , roll the car forward so the wheel was the opposite way up and then repeat the process to free it off completely.
Nice to see that you were able to get them off. Thanks for visiting!
On my 02 MK4 the first time ( 12+ years ago ) I went to remove my wheels ran into the same problem...My fix use scotch Brite pads to clean up the face of the rim and hub I originally started using lithium grease recently switched to Fluid Film you will always incur some sort of corrosion in the area.
My GTI 1.8 T with 285 K Revo stage one flash, performance exhaust manifold- cold air intake- performance exhaust muffler. I keep her up to factory specs serviced by my local VW, the shop foreman and I have been good friends for about 12+ years now I just walk into the shop and we chat about any topic under the sun.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
I have just used this method, but the rocking didn't work so I drove it round the block and that did the trick. All 4 wheels released easily. Yesterday I hit one wheel with a hammer and block, but nothing.
Excellent! Glad it worked for you. Thanks for visiting!
Thank you! First time changing winters off a VW Atlas and was worried I was gonna be stuck… not anymore! 😊
Glad you found it helpful! Take care!
This really helped me out today, thank you!😃
Excellent! There must be an epidemic of stuck wheels because this video has seen a lot of traction lately. 😳 Glad it helped you! Thanks for visiting.
You can also put a small wedge under the inside of the tyre which will create an angle to help release the wheel.
Thanks for sharing!
So I decided if I was going to subscribe based on whether or not you cursed the tire out when you noticed it was stuck. You didn't disappoint.
HAHA! To be honest, eight years serving afloat has made me no stranger to salty language. My wife's cats have foul mouths, too, if I'm the one translating for her. ;-) But I choose to keep my videos clean with the hope of broadening their appeal. Thanks for the sub!
Brilliant! Got a bit stuck what to do after a mallet and WD40 didn't help. The car was also on a slight slope so didn't want to shake it too much on the little roadside jack.
Thanks! :)
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting.
Had this happen to me yesterday in a 2006 Ford Expedition. I had to put all the lugs nuts on hand tight and then I drove slow up and Dow the driveway a few times and that worked.
Thanks for sharing! Take Care!
Thank you for posting this up. We have two Toyotas here at the house with aluminum rims that do exactly what you've described. Armed with this information winter changeover might be a little merrier this year !
Glad it helped Thanks for visiting!
Cool they said you learn something new everyday and I did 👍🏼. Nice tire rocking the same ones on my GTI
Thanks! I'm going to do a video about my tires. I have a few sets of wheels and tires to show. Thanks for visiting.
Worked to free my 330i rear wheel which was well stuck - thanks for the tip!
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting.
Great video! Had this issue today. All sorted now, thanks 👍😁
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
Good tip. I put light coat of on corner where you point it out and the surface of hub where it meets the wheel. Definitely go light with antiseize
Thanks for sharing your experience. Take Care!
Nice video. Normally if the wheel gets stuck, no need to rock the car, just drop the car jack suddenly, and the weight of the car will unstuck it. Making use of the dumb force of the car... but the rocking also works of course :-) I will always apply a very thin layer of Copper-grease on the hub. No more stuck wheels....
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Love the intro - made me giggle. Great video as always. Thank you for using millimeter as a metric user this makes me very happy ;)
Glad you enjoyed it! Most cars today have metric parts. Therefore, I use metric tools and metric units of measure. :-) OH, I just realized where you heard me say "millimeter." In that case, it is a far more precise and brief descriptor than "thirty-second of an inch." HAHA! Take Care!
If you have rusty hubs just scotch-brite the hub, de-grease the surface and shoot it with some rust converter. It will create a barrier, turn the rust black, and is a paintable base if you want to paint the hubs as well
Thanks for the tip!
Oh ok, will do that too! Thanks!
Mind blown. That worked incredibly
Excellent! Thanks for the report!
A helpful video for those in your situation but your concerns about anti-seize are largely unfounded. Yes, some people overdo it, but a very thin layer across the face of the hub and a slightly thicker layer around the center collar will prevent wheels from sticking. Been doing this for 20+ years with no issues and my wheels practically fall off the car every time I remove them. FYI, the problem is caused by dissimilar metal corrosion and the anti-seize becomes the sacrificial element (as opposed to your wheels!) so it's best to clean the hubs and re-apply every time you pull the wheels. Takes a couple extra minutes, but then you don't have to worry about the wheels sticking to the car, particularly on the side of the road when you have to change a spare in the rain.
Thanks for the tips. I didn't want to make the video any longer by explaining the corrosion. Good to know a tiny bit of anti-seize along the hub will not spread excessively.
I did this yesterday to get my wheels off. Today I'm looking for a better method and I see this lol
Excellent. Thanks for visiting!
Brilliantly simple.
Why didn’t I think of that!
Thanks for posting 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for visiting.
StealthGTI 👍
Worked for my MK7 Golf. Cheers 👍🏻
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
9k views with only a 140 likes, I appreciate this video and hope it works for me tomorrow!! I dropped the video a thumbs up and subscribed.
Did it work? Thanks for your support!
@@StealthGTI unfortunately it didn't, they are really rusted on..bought an 8lb sledge today also and beat on it after I heated it up..not sure what I'm gonna do yet..lol.
@@joshwebber98 - Interesting. Try one additional turn of each lug bolt, then go for a SHORT drive, like around the block. The cornering forces may help break the bonds. Good Luck!
I was once under a bmw trying to kick off the tyre. Still no joy. We got it off by loosening the bolts half way and reversing the wheel up a kerb until it clicked. It came off clean once unscrewed.
Excellent! Glad it worked! Thanks for visiting!
I have the same problem...Great idea ! Thanks
Glad it helped. Thanks for visiting!
It’s a good tip. I’d be interested to know the force exerted on the threads while doing this though as you’ve taken away the friction force between the bolt / wheel / hub to do this.
I don't imagine it's terrible since it only lasts a few seconds. Remember, I'm loosening just one turn, which may be about a millimeter. I forgot about another technique: during my research, I found that some mechanics will actually loosen the lugs (half-turn?) and drive the car around the block. I think what I'm doing is far less consequential. Thanks for visiting.
How do u if its over toqued
You may need a really long breaker bar. I prefer them over impact wrenches so that you can apply gentle, but increasingly more torque. It could be that the bolts will snap; so, be ready for that. If one breaks, then stop and go to a shop. Odds are good that the others will break, too. Better to have that happen someplace where they can be replaced right away. Good Luck!
Lovely intro, actually laughed.
Thanks 😄
HAHA! That was my goal. Thanks for visiting.
Just did this, amazing it worked like almost instantly..
Great to hear! Thanks for visiting!
One of the benefits of having spacer is it would not seize up the wheels to its spacer thus easy to remove them. No matter how much anti-seize I put never helped.
Thanks for sharing that.
Yeah but try removing the spacer after being there for so long is a pain. Tell me about it
@@mk6_csg978 certain brands or spacers have notch or hole that i can use it to pry it out. get something with notches for easy removal
Works!
Excellent! Thanks for visiting!
Thank you for this extremely valuable info!!
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for visiting!
You and j came up with the same solutions independently lol I even do the same to get the wheel back on
To get the wheel back on? I don't get it. I just line up the bolts and zip them in place.
Thank you very much for the very nice video. It works very well.
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
That worked!!! ..with a few hard kicks .. Thanks !!
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
Outstanding x 4 💯👍 Thank you!
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the good video, do they not loosen up already when you lower the car on the wheel with the hubs barely tightened?
Thanks for the comment! No, unidirectional pressure is not enough. Some mechanics loosen the lugs and then drive around the block. But that much time/effort is not necessary. Rocking the car allows lateral pressure to free the wheels. Leaving the bolts mostly-installed ensures that the wheels don't shift TOO much. Take Care!
What is the tool that fits on the impact gun to pretension the bolts? Name and brand.
I've had this one for over 10 years: www.idparts.com/torque-limiting-socket-17mm-17mmtqsocket-hdt17c17-p-6245.html. I've seen similar sockets elsewhere... search the phrase "torque limiting socket" to find your size. To be clear, I use this to avoid overtightening. I still check each lug with an actual torque wrench to ensure correct specs. Thanks for visiting.
I to have just learned from this video, thanks alot.
Glad it was helpful! Take Care!
Thanks for sharing. This worked!
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
Hi @StealthGTI, I have a completely flat rear driver-side tire on my 2013 VW Passat that is stuck. What can I do to unseize it?
The same technique will work regardless of tire inflation. Just loosen the lug bolt *a little* and rock the car, just like in the video. Good Luck!
Love the powder coated Nagaros
Thanks! I like them so much that I have three sets, just to ensure my look stays the same regardless of season. :-) Thanks for visiting.
@@StealthGTI We have the same car. Except mine is DSG. We are the same age too.
Torquing wheels twice, first to a slightly lower value and then to specs, ensures proper results. Few people do it.
Thanks for noticing. I usually hand-torque them when the wheel is in the air, then torque to full spec on the ground... and check them a few days later.
Thank you so much for this video you’re a lifesaver
Glad it helped! Thanks for visiting!
Thats a nice tip. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for visiting.
Literally had this issue last week
Nice! I have some of the VW paste that someone recommended. I haven't tried it yet, but will certainly post a follow-up when I do. Thanks for visiting.
Jealous of car owners, as this is a little harder with a full sized truck with road salt seized tires. Rear tire was stuck last month so badly the only way I could remove it was with a tow strap on the tire, tow strap on a thick tree and a come-along between them. Came off like a shotgun blast lol.
Only place I put anti-seize is behind my brake rotors, but placing them on the wheel itself just seems like a bad idea. Even a slight imbalance can introduce wobble at highway speeds.
WOW! That's quite stuck! Thanks for visiting!
Just put anti seize on the hub centric😊, Not the hub face, your rims will come off easily every time even in the rust belt.
Thanks for the info!
Thank you!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for visiting!
Really off topic. What are your thoughts on RSR clutch kit? Does it holds well ? How many miles on it?
The RSR is fantastic. It's holding very well. And, as stated in other videos, I can be a bit abusive with it. I'm APR Stage 2 (around 370 lb-ft) and tow trailers. Even with a trailer in tow, I don't mind putting my foot into the accelerator from time to time. My tires are sticky; so, rather than spinning, all of the torque pulling 4500 lbs of car/trailer is held at the clutch. The harshest thing I do with my clutch is backing a trailer up my inclined driveway, especially if it has a heavy load. I have to be careful when backing between my other cars. That means I'm backing at slower than idle speed, which requires slipping the clutch. This is particularly painful in the dark when I cannot see what I'm doing. See what I mean in this 20-second video segment: ua-cam.com/video/ByltEJerp1k/v-deo.html. Still, the clutch is doing great. It has almost 70,000 miles. Thanks for visiting.
StealthGTI
Thanks. Most things I read about RSR are positive. I’m is20 swapped stage 2 on 2018 sportwagen 4MO and stock clutch is going (slippage started recently).
Still debating between DMF setup like Sachs/RSR and some SMF stage 2 kit.
I like the drivability of retaining DMF.
@@posimard8131 - When I replied, I forgot that we're in the "Sticky Wheels" video. If you haven't seen my "20 Questions" video, check out this sequence for my testimony about the RSR clutch: ua-cam.com/video/rOW8zgKdD0c/v-deo.html
I dropped the car to try your trick, and dropping the car alone did the trick
Nice! Just be careful not to drop too hard an break something. HAHA! Thanks for visiting!
Worked for me, thanks
Good to hear. Thanks for visiting!
that helps a lot , thanks
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks for visiting!
Did all that and still stuck! Let whole car down on Jack and STILL stuck! Any other ideas??
With the lugs loosened about a millimeter, take the car for a SHORT drive at low speeds, including a turn or two. That will shift some weight along the hub faces. Good Luck!
Great tip ! Thanks !
Thanks for visiting.
Really good video thnx a million
Glad it helped. Thanks for visiting!
My bud wrap your tool socket with blue tape. No more scratches on the wheels.
HAHA! I'm pretty careful. I haven't had a problem in 30+ years. :-)
Thanks mate so easy.....
Glad it helped! Take Care!
Hmm very nice idea you got, you know what, when you pull out all the nuts and tried pulling out the tire and you kinda say "what the f _ _ _" i just giggled hahahaha i can relate, because im like you hours ago when i supposed to clean my break pads but to my dismay that happend, Thanks, will try that tomorow, by the way, i subscribed to your channel. Thanks again. Watching here in the Philippines
Thanks for the visit and the subscription!
You’re the man
Thanks! I hope it worked for you!
How many times have you changed the rear discs and pads? I have a sticky rear piston and don't know if it's needing a new caliper. It's a 2014 GTD I have and only 41k miles but it's got an epb on it so need to take it to the garage. Also my GTD comes with these wheels.👍
My brakes are still original. As for the sticky piston, a good mechanic will lube the pistons before pressing them back into the caliper during a brake job. Thanks for visiting.
@@StealthGTI original brakes wow! There's 6mm of pads left on the good side, on the sticky side they are 4mm and 5mm. I took the pads out and cleaned then greased the slide pins with silicone grease and put copper grease on the edges of the pads where they slide. But it's still sticking as the disc gets hot. I have seen video showing how to wind the epb back but don't want to try that incase I end up with a fault light on the dash. My discs are very rusty so I'm thinking I'll just get new discs/pads fitted when the garage opens after lockdown. Good shout in greasing the piston and hopefully it's ok.
Awesome! Thanks.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for visiting!
This did not work for me. What did the trick was to loosen the bolts and whack it with a 4x4 endwise. Lots of force but made of wood so no damage. Another video had a guy who used a log so that's basically what I did with the 4x4. Mine was cut down to 3-4 feet long so not the entire 8' piece of lumber.
Excellent! A short drive, I mean about 200 feet can work, too. Regardless, glad it worked for you. Thanks for visiting.
I also go with 90ft lbs on the lugs 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for visiting!
Good method
Thanks!
Didn't work for my car, but I try again tomorrow.
Did you try again? Perhaps some penetrating fluid in addition to rocking? Thanks for visiting!
Agree, tends to be the rear . Will try that next time 👍🇬🇧
Thanks for visiting.
Some anti seize on the hub & threads , you’ll never have to do this again.
On the THREADS? Doesn't that affect the torque value by essentially lubricating the threads? I'd only consider putting the anti-seize on the mating surface of the hub. Thoughts? Thanks for commenting.
StealthGTI all you want is just a light coating, wipe off excess with a towel. If you torque it down to 85ft lbs, it’s still 85 ft lbs. Besides the steel studs can handle so much more.
Same with the nub. Get a light coating, wipe off excess. I’ve been using this method for 10 years in the northeast, every time the wheel comes off easily. The trick is the "light " coating. After you wipe it should look like it has gray dust coating on it.
@@StealthGTI Yes absolutely on the threads is fine. Work it in with your fingers, wipe off excess with a towel, and then torque to spec. I've been doing this for decades on multiple vehicles, never an issue with torque retention on the studs/bolts. Feel free to coat the rim/hub mating surface as well. Unless one goes crazy over applying, there will not be antiseize flying around later. Nice tip to free the stuck rim BTW.
@@jeffsimpson5874 - Thanks, Jeff!
It doeesnt work i just tried it. When a tire is flat its not 100% so the rim kept moving as I was pushing the car and i and a skinny geezer like him i can bench 425 squat525 and deadlift 615. I almost brok the tail light i was rocking the car so hard
Loosen the lugs another turn and don't push on the tail light. ;-) I'd recommend a SHORT drive, just 100 yards, but not with a flat. Good Luck!
Thanks for the analysis....Arnold.....lol
Light coat of grease cures this.
Thanks for the tip and your visit!
This is a very helpful video. VW has a paste to put on the hub to prevent corrsion, I put this paste on my car and it works great.
her is the part number: (G052109A2) A little goes a long way :)
Thanks for sharing that! I think I may have a tube that was given to me many years ago. I don't think I remembered what it's for. I'll have a look.
my bmw x5 front wheel stuck fuck it
Someone will get it off eventually, right? ;-) Thanks for visiting.
Didn’t work
Two possibilities: 1) You can loosen the lugs 1mm more (one turn?) and/or 2) Instead of rocking the car, take it for a very short, SLOW drive... I'm talking about 500 feet... just enough to subject the car to a few bumps lateral forces, and light braking. Good Luck!
@@StealthGTI I’ll try tomorrow. Sob is on there tight.
@@rickendicott1260 - If that doesn't work, then your only option, other than taking it to a pro, is to use a heavy mallet. Loosen (but don't remove) the lugs A LOT, then beat the wheels silly around the perimeter until they finally come off. Wire brush the flanges and wheel mating surfaces before putting them back on.
How did it go?