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P320 DIY COMPETITION TRIGGER JOB
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- In this video I share how I modified the components of my P320 pistol to drastically improve the stock trigger and convert it into an ELITE competition type trigger with...Over 50% Reduction in Trigger Travel, Over 80% Reduction in Over travel & Over 50% Reduction in Trigger Reset!
I also explain the upgrade while using available data to compare this modification to the stock P320. I then provide a detailed view of how the work was completed, explain why the modification works and explore the interaction within the FCU to provide clarity of the internal workings to viewers.
Enjoy!
---------------------- CHAPTERS ----------------------
0:00 - Introduction
1:57 - Disclaimer
2:55 - Breakdown of Video
- STOCK VS. MODIFIED TEST RESULTS -
3:47 - Data Comparison
4:15 - Trigger Travel
4:42 - Take Up
5:07 - Creep
5:27 - Overtravel
6:01 - Reset
6:28 - Reset (Demonstration)
- SEAR MODIFICATION -
7:20 - Overview of Modified Parts
7:59 - How Sear & Trigger bar Interact
9:30 - Sear Geometry
10:40 - Showing Modified Sear in the FCU
11:39 - Operation Of Modified Sear (Close Up)
- TRIGGER BAR MODIFICATION -
12:49 - Explanation
13:35 - How Parts Interact (Close Up)
- TRIGGER MODIFICATION -
15:35 - Overview
16:00 - How Parts Interact (Close Up)
18:06 - Trigger Outside FCU (Close Up)
- OUTRO -
19:05 - Final Thoughts
20:03 - Safety
21:36 - Thank You Note
You can now follow @sig_mechanics on Instagram!
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best more in depth trigger video for the p320/M18 I’ve seen.
Thank you! but wait until you see this…
AN ANALYSIS OF EVERY P320 TRIGGER...EVER
ua-cam.com/video/so3b8JXJDlg/v-deo.html
You've earned yourself a following, sir! Clear, concise, and with enough reference to a light touch and the care needed to avoid going off safe parameters. Obliged. Raymus
@H R Bibee, thank you very much I’m honoured to have you here! Glad you found the videos useful, thanks for watching.
Love these videos. Was concerned about the P320 until I watched your video highlighting the safety changes made. Thanks for your good work.
Well done my man. For a first video, you knocked it out of the park!!!
This is very similar to what the Sig Armorer does. Good reverse engineering job
Once again I returned to your video to do another SM trigger job, and from evidence from the first one, it's working perfectly, thanks again for the awesome videos on the P320🔫🔫
Hey @Eugene Asher, good to see you again! I’m so glad to hear you’re first trigger job went well, so glad I could help!
Good job on not removing more take-up. That safety lever pushes up on the striker safety after only a slight bit of movement. There's a video on youtube that shows it disabling the striker safety after only like 3/32" movement. (not exact, but it visually appeared to be less than 1/8", but more than 1/16").
1st video I've seen of yours. As far as I can tell, you're honest about not being a gunsmith or expert and knowledgeable on this gun so I had to subscribe.
Im becoming more and more of a "sig guy" with every new one I come across. Thanks for posting this info!
Thanks for the kind words!
@@SIGMECHANICS I'm currently at rural king waiting on a guy to buy a p320 x5 legion. Hopefully it works out.
@jaywethington1934 Great pistol! Good luck!! Let me know if you have any questions.
@@SIGMECHANICS will do. Thank you for offering. That's very rare with UA-cam creators.
Fantastic vid. You may have success reducing creeping by welding some material onto the sear housing and cutting reliefs into the trigger where necessary to continue running the safety. I'll get back to you if I test this idea.
Thank you. Excellent idea. I’d definitely be interested to know how that goes!
Fantastic job. Thank you for providing it to us all.
Hi @Keith Holcomb, you’re welcome, and thank you for watching!
Alright! Done! Now I don’t need to drop it to go 💥!
Phenomenal work. I’m at CST and I’ll be attempting a few of these mods
Thank you for such detailed information on the sig. Great job, best i have found yet. Have you made the video on how to posh the FCU yet? Thanks 😊
Very nice!! Love the way you go into detail on your vids. Thanks
@JR Greene, I appreciate your saying that. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for such a great video. Could you notify me when you are going to make the video of how to polish the FCU? Thanks for all your detailed and hard work.
Great Camera Work And Hand Work!!!
I often strip my 220/6/9 Legions down to bare grip module, do a deep clean and reassemble. I would not do anything you’ve done unless it’s just a range gun. Who knows what kind of uncertainty you’ve introduced by modifications. I sent my 226 SAO Legion to Robert at Sig Armorer for a competition trigger job, and he sent me back a 1.5# trigger with almost no take up and zero overtravel. I’d say there is a millimeter reset. $300 which includes FedEx both ways. I watch all of Sig Guys videos because he deals with every Sig Model. If I were you I’d be pumping out more than one video a month and look at other models. Just about everything has been said about the 320. BTW the Sig Armorer has a new drop in trigger job for the 320, and it’s adjustable for trigger pull, take up, overtravel etc. best Regards
Absolutely, generally speaking, I wouldn’t recommend this for anything there than a range gun either. As for the drop in kit, I am actually good friends with Robert and we’ve worked on a project together (coming soon), I also have the kit your talking about in hand ready to review.
Unfortunately, with work and a young family all I can do is a video a month, I wish I could do more but these videos take several weeks and many, MANY hours to make. However, it might interest you to know that I am starting up P365 videos very soon, and plan on giving them the same Sig Mechanics treatment, maybe followed by the P226 (depending on what the people want to see), anyway, thanks for your insight!
This is good information and goes a long way to really explaining the mechanical workings of trigger travel. What is it that most controls the trigger pull and how can that be reduced?
A lot can be fixed by adding the spot welds to the trigger and trigger bar alone. Start there but make sure you don’t over do it as you want to keep the safety intact. There is also a way to modify the safety disconnect point but it requires careful examination of the internal geometry and I can’t recommend it (due to safety).
nice work, i really enjoy watching you thought process and solutions
Thank you!
Thanks for making the video. Keep going, you give a lot of info.
Thank you! Great idea to start your channel.
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Thank you for all the trouble and great camera work. Would you pls notify me when you make the video for polishing the FCU? Thank you 😊
Hey @Tony Moore, It’s in the works. If you haven’t already subscribe and click on the bell symbol. It supposedly will send you a notification when the videos come out.
Should be soon though. I just want to send out my pre-upgrade FCU to get the upgrade done first then I’ll do the polishing video. (Along with some pictures on UA-cam community).
Instead of adding weld material and filing it down do you think it would be possible to drill and tap a hole to utilize a setscrew for the adjustment on the trigger and trigger bar? Similar to the Johnny Glocks trigger kits for glocks?
I’ve been meaning to test that. I just haven’t found a tap and die set that could do the small size needed to not interfere with any other components.
Fantastic video
Is there an update on trigger improvements post manual safety changes? I just happened to end up in this video after watching the in-depth manual safety vid and realized this is an older vid.
No, there really isn’t any improvement or disadvantages when the manual safety is installed. Performance wise, it remains the same.
Excellent educational video.
On the trigger bar where the sear meets it can u shave the bars ledge instead of the sear it's self to go even shorter
@Eric Arambula, Yes! Theoretically, it will do the same thing. I haven’t tried it though. If you do it let me know how it turns out!
Edmund, the trigger on my P-320 Compact in .45 ACP is so good I'm not touching it. I swear, it's right behind the Apex system in my M&P 2.0. Crisp, short travel, sweet reset, but it breaks closer to 6 lbs than 4...
That’s great! If anything don’t touch the main components but maybe try lightened sear springs for a lighter pull.
@@SIGMECHANICS Thanx, I'm good with the weight of pull on this one... it's my EDC.
Oh ok. Then yes, don’t mess with it. Still, I’m glad your getting that performance out of the stock setup. Sounds great.
@@SIGMECHANICS I figure it's purely 'luck of the draw' that this one happens to be so good. I found the 9mm to have a pretty squishy/vague trigger break, but this one isn't like that.
@@SIGMECHANICS Oh yeah.... your videos are top notch and informative. Great job. I would love to sit across a table and have a long conversation with you.
Would you mind going into a bit of detail on what you did to polish the FCU body?
So many people like polishing the FCU. I did it to match my Bar-Sto barrel and stainless steel extractor. I will definitely make a video for that and let you know when I post it. Thanks for watching!
I am glad you didn't grind down the sear engagement surface. I love sig armorer's trigger's feeling, but I really are not comfortable that the sear engagement surface is reduced.
I hear you. At the time I made that video I had no idea how TSA did his work. Now that I do, I want to test doing BOTH, sear leg and sear engagement surface. Just to see what happens. I imagine an insane amount of creep is reduced along with the reset.
I would never do something like this outside of a range gun. If I were to carry it I would stick to stock.
@@SIGMECHANICS I mean while half of my range friend sending me video of p320 firing by itself, the last thing we want is making it easier right 😂
Excellent
Awesomeness
I notice in this video your fcu is shiny. Do you have suggestions on how-to or do you have a video out that explains your polishing process?
First off, I want to say Thank You. Now, How do these modifications work with an Adjustable Trigger?
These mods are essentially in lieu of the adjustable trigger so adding one won’t make any improvements per-se but if it’s about preference and enjoying the ergonomics of any particular trigger then you can always add one but not make further adjustments.
I do however, need to inform you about my findings regarding these types of adjustments so I’m going to include a link to a video I made recently that will help you understand what these adjustments will do to your fire control unit… I haven’t tested it based on the modifications in this video however, due to the nature of the modifications, I would say it would be equal.
ua-cam.com/video/8WqpL7A5zd8/v-deo.htmlsi=9mMRPxvTYbltMwhh
You should write a book about the sig p320 covering all aspects
Thank you @gary c, that would be a fun project! Thanks for the idea.
Thanks 😊
I’ve got a question for you, Why didn’t you alter the trigger bar where the seer rides on it instead you shaved thickness from the seer to shorten reset???
Hello again! I thought about it at the time I attempted this BUT…do have an extra sear and trigger bar, so maybe I should try both routes because theoretically it should work. I modded the sear because 1. I had it on me and 2. Most trigger jobs I read about have some modification to the sear, so not being a pro gunsmith or anything like that, I opted to go that route.
It is not clear where you removed material on your sear? Shave it down to .049…from inside the seat or outside?
Great video
I took it off the inner edge (where the sear engages the trigger bar)
Could you please tell me where you removed the material off of the sear ? I’m thinking the inside but not 100% sure Thank you
On the side where the trigger bar would meet the sear.
Thank you
'The video sig armorers don't want you to see'. Great info. Was thinking about doing some sort of upgrades to my xfive legion and also looked into the apex trigger upgrade as well but overall the apex upgrade only shortens travel by 30% on the xfive nothing else. Will be looking into the reset piece since that's the only gripe I have coming from a SRT triggers. And since it's just sanding it down, hopefully I won't f it up.
It might be worth it to buy the Gray Guns trigger kit first.
Not only do you get an option of lightened sear springs (medium and competition) , but you also get a polished sear.
This way you can modify your original sear, polish it by hand, and have a back up sear just in case.
Thanks for watching and good luck! Let us know how it turns out.
I can't seem to find the buildup on the rear of the trigger bar. Was it removed on later p320 models?
This video is about the modification I added to the internal components. Those TIG welds were done by me.
Are you taking the material off the sear from the side that makes contact with the trigger bar or the opposing side?
On the side, where the trigger bar contacts the sear.
@@SIGMECHANICS your the shit man 🤙 The gun community needs more of you.
If there is too much material will the trigger not reset when doing a functions check?
It’s possible. The balance needs to be there, too much material and either the gun won’t fire, or will not reset after firing. The beauty is that you can really customize heavily if you have a few parts to spare.
What parts of the triggers do i need to have my trigger job
It was the area that the trigger bar touches the sear.
It appears that the built in firing pin safety would add to the trigger pull weight. Have you measured how much this contributes to the trigger pull weight?
Hey, @g26westgate, it definitely would contribute some weight. I haven’t measured it but I do know there are reduced weight striker lock lever springs out there.
Rather than putting a weld on the trigger, would drilling it out and putting a set screw work?
I’ve been meaning to try this, I believe that it would work with the problem being the screw might slowly adjust over time.
That is a very good point that I hadn't considered. Thanks. @@SIGMECHANICS
So for people at home what is the best way to improve the trigger, or do we need to take it to someone to do a "trigger job"
Aside for the welds (where I dropped off with a machinist to do), the rest was done at home. If you are uncomfortable with that sort of work, you can always opt to purchase a pre-and post travel adjustable trigger, but you will not get the shorter reset without the modification to the sear.
Thanks for this. I may take this route since I'm frugal and like DIY jobs. What are you using to weld those beads on? What side of the sear did you remove material from?
Hi @Forest Schultz, I took it to a friend of mine to tig weld. As for the side I removed material on, I pointed it out in the video, it’s the side of the sear where it makes physical contact with the trigger bar.
@@SIGMECHANICS I had to go back and rewatch that portion, thank you for this. I'll have to do the same thing if I go this route. When I get mine back from the upgrade I'll be going to a flat trigger. I'll analyze it then and decide if I can remove material from the trigger bar since it's much easier to service. About 100th of an inch isn't much.
@ Forest Schultz. Report back to us. The trigger bar mod is on my list of things to try, but haven’t gotten to it. Make sure to verify you’re not disengaging the striker safety though. Good luck!!
I realize this is 2 years old. BUT
How did you add weld to the trigger? TIG or JB weld? I don't know if you had to leave that part out due to a YT rule?
I took the parts to a machine shop and payed them $20 to add a little TIG weld on them. I then took it home and finished the work by hand.
@SIGMECHANICS
I can tig weld, but not delicate. :)
Thank you.
So this is us more effective than Armory Crafts trigger/spring kit?
I can’t say it is because I haven’t compared the two setups unfortunately.
@@SIGMECHANICS thanks
I was just looking for easy, haha
Had to go through your video several times because I'm interested in mitigating as much of the creep from the reset to the break. Looking at @06:58, (reset to break) your trigger pull seems smooth, predictable, and constant...there doesn't appear to be any mushy, sloppy creep. Is that an accurate description? Thanks again.
All I did at for this was polish both the seat and striker hook, there are also mods you can do here for creep, but I wouldn’t recommend them due to safety.
@@SIGMECHANICS Thank you once again!
Witch side of sear leg did you remove the material from ? That touch the trigger or the opposite side
Trigger side.
Ok The side rest that rest against the bar thanks 👍
Did you do any sort of polishing or coating to the FCU parts?
I did polish it to a mirror finish, I will be making a video showing you how to do that as well.
Did you just Zap the trigger bar and trigger shoe with a mig or tig with filler rod?
Yes.
Hi did you polish trigger job?
Yes, I did a fine jewelry polish on areas where there is metal on metal contact.
when you say weld material, are you more talking about using soldering iron and wire? Or are you pulling out an actual welder?
I used a MIG but I haven’t tried with soldering wire. I can’t imagine it will hold up nearly as well as real weld would.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
did you file the inside part of the sear hook or the outside part? I assume that you filed the inside part, the part the contacts the trigger bar. Is that correct? It would be nicer if you had showed how you did the modifications, pointing exactly where and how you filed or polished the parts.
Inside edge. I do remember showing the exact spot in the video too. However, there is a fine line in showing this type of modification on UA-cam since they may consider it against their policy. If you have any trouble finding it, you can always email me and I can show you.
@@SIGMECHANICS thanks for your answer. You Pointed the area but you pointed making a circle on all over the edge, so I Dis not understand if you filed inside ou outside. So you filed the inside part, meaning the part that stays in contact with the trigger bar, right?
How about the welding? Did you use a normal weldind, like those soldering iron kit or ia ir necessary to have a proper welding machine?
Have you tried to put 2 screws on the trigger in order to set the pre travel and over travel, like the armory craft one?
I see. Yes, the portion that is directly contacting with a Trigger Bar. For the Welding, I went to a local shop who had a Tig welder and have them $20 to add the welds on both the trigger and bar, then trial and error to file it down.
I have not tried to drill and tap the original trigger, I do intend to do that at some point just for fun. I have a friend who was successful doing this with a different Trigger so I know this will work.
@@SIGMECHANICS thanks very much.
My pleasure. If you have any more questions, feel free to let me know.
Would this apply to the M18?
It would, yes. Any P320 variant.
How did you do the actual sanding? Particular tools and grits?
I used a medium Norton stone for the grinding and a set of calipers to track the amount of material I was removing.
@@SIGMECHANICS Nice, thanks! Plus, is this a one wrong move and you've futzed the whole kaboodle? Or is there a bit more leeway than one might expect?
@capoeiradude35 there is SOME play, but I would mainly worry most about the TIG on the trigger bar, too much material can (will) partially disengage your striker safety. I have a video related to this exact thing coming out in a few days, maybe check that out first before doing this work.
@@SIGMECHANICS Sweet, lookin' forward to it! I'll watch it 5-27 times🔥
What kind of weld is it on the back of the trigger bar?
Those would be TIG welds.
If you dry fire without a magazine in the gun, does it pull the slide down before the trigger breaks? (also making the trigger pull feel a little different).
It should not make your trigger feel any different (maybe give more detail of what you mean by that), but, the slide will move downward up until the striker releases then pops back up.
@@SIGMECHANICS Yeah. As you pull the trigger, they rear of the slide (and rear sight) get pulled downward... then when the sear releases the striker, the slide pops back up. Doesn't happen with a mag, but only when there's no mag. (the spring in the mag has enough power to stop the slide from being pulled down by the sear/striker).
How did you shave the sear's engagement surface? Via sanding 🤔?
I used a Norton stone to sand it down.
@@SIGMECHANICS Thank you 😊
the sear for reset is the most interesting part for me. On witch part of the sear did you take material off ? I can´t figure it out in the video.
@bimmer666, there is no modification to the sear on this project. I’m currently testing to make sure it’s safe and reliable so I’m not sharing the mod itself at the moment but rather getting feedback from the community to see if this is something they want to have. If it is then I can continue to develop this.
@@SIGMECHANICS na, you have the wrong video in mind. This issn't the new one :)
@bimmer666, oh I see. On that one it’s the leg that touches the trigger bar. So, for example, if you remove your FCU and flip it over and pull your trigger, the immediate surface of the sear that the TB engages with. Let me know if that helps clear it up. If not you can also email me at sigmechanics@gmail.com
@@SIGMECHANICS yes, i could see the leg. But did you shorten it completely or did you make it thinner at the contact side?
@bimmer666, I didn’t shorten it at all actually. Only made it thinner by the amount I mentioned in the video.
I did this but it ended up making my trigger break at the end of the trigger pull increasing pre travel, any ideas to make it break sooner? The reset is much better on a side note.
I’ve had this happen during testing when I took too much off the leg. Therefore, the trigger bar has to travel further to break.
You might need a new sear. There is an alternative, but I will not recommend it here because if it’s done wrong, you could be removing safety.
New sear would be the best/safest option.
@@SIGMECHANICS is it because I shaved off too much to close to the edge?
Not really at the “edge”, the filing happens in the area where the trigger bar touches/engages the sear, therefore it’s more on the surface area.
If you remove the FCU from the grip, look under the FCU and see where the trigger bar touches the sear, it’s that area there.
What is the type of barrel you have and how does it preform??
That’s a Bar-sto barrel in 9mm with a 1/16 twist (vs. 1/10 OEM). It has been flawless. You won’t see accuracy difference from an OEM barrel until about over 25 yards though, that’s when it shines. Overall, amazing barrel, I highly recommend it.
@@SIGMECHANICS Thank you
I have a channel Skips Gunz and am becoming a gunsmith I do mods to 2011s glocks starting on cz and sig and really wana try this on my new sig. I really appreciate your understanding of the parts and mods hope to speak with you soon good work
Thank you, I’d be happy to speak with you sometime. Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help. Good luck!
@@SIGMECHANICS great I will definitely ask u some advice in the next few days I already filed the sear down from your video
Where did you get the parts from?
@Zach Babb, the only thing that is not "stock" is the Gray Guns Competition Trigger System. It provides you with a new sear/safety pivot pin/sear springs/trigger bar springs and trigger. (I didn't use the trigger so I can keep an OEM look). You can pick up this kit at most firearm retailers. BTW, The trigger is adjustable so you can avoid TIG welding your trigger if you prefer to not go that route. Good Luck!
Can you make the reset feel more forceful like a glock?
Have you tried replacing the trigger bar spring?
@@SIGMECHANICS my p320 is completely stock.
These days you can buy a stronger reset spring.
@@SIGMECHANICS any recommendations?
Armory Craft comes to mind, but I’m sure there are others.
9mm?
Yes
When you break down a Sig 320 and compare it to other brands, the 320 is very plain, simple and dangerous. HK, CZ, S&W, Ruger, SA, Steyr, Walther and others are superior.
It sounds like your fairly convinced, however, I’d recommend watching some of the other videos I made that go much deeper into the mechanics of the P320 so you can familiarize yourself with the design further.
I don’t have an intimate understanding of those other options like I do the P320, but I can comment that striker fired guns will generally all have a relatively simple process with (for the most part) similar mechanical functions.
If you’re really comparing so many different firearms however, It will essentially come down to personal preference.
Thanks for watching!
How can I contact you
By email: sigmechanics@gmail.com
You’re a godsend sir!
Thank you! Glad I could help!