Thank you so much for this. We are going Sunday and it looks like we will now be going more than once! Are all the new routes on the vertical life app?
Thanks for working on this. Pretty special hole in the ground, that one! I'm curious as to how you shipped your tool batteries over? And if you gave any thought to titanium glue ins instead of SS? I met Axel at the Grotta and he said a big impediment to Ti was expertise, but I'm also wondering about logistics and glue storage etc.
the glue in process for titanium glue ins is the exact same as stainless. Lappas climbing actually do quite affordable titanium glue ins and essentially all climbs near the sea especially in the Mediterranean should be titanium. Expansions stainless steel in this environment are not going to last
@@user-xt4ip8un5mthe Ti glue ins I've used (generation 1 Tortugas) had a little more flex than any steel glue ins I've encountered. IDK if that matters if they're recessed into a slot the modern style to look like staples after they're installed. I'd also be curious to know what glue you've used. Lappas says Hilti 500 V3 but that sounds like an expensive drippy nightmare to me.
@@erichirst4976 Titanium is definitely softer than SS and that's a concern for lower offs or threading directly through the eye of a titanium glue in. TI rings however, should be fine. I've used the Ti glue ins from Titan Climbing made in Sheffield and the instructions state they need to be recessed. Jim Titt's twist SS bolts don't need to be recessed. I think for TI it might add a bit of strength and longevity by recessing and Martin from Titan Climbing does recommend it. Glue wise have used pure Epoxy from Rawlplug and also Vinylester from Fischer - you need the two types of glue guns. For maximum longevity and strength for sure Epoxy is better but it's expensive. Vinylester is more affordable and v strong. Jim Titt has an excellent technique on his website for avoiding getting glue all over your ropes (link below - scroll to 'Glue Gun Holster'): www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm ''Get a length of 100mm plastic pipe about 300mm long. Drill a hole for an attachment loop at one end and fix a carrier bag over the other to catch the drips and smears off the nozzle. As this pipe was corrugated ( it is sold as cable conduit)I used a cord and tanka but tape is just as good. When the bag is covered inside with hard glue just change it.'' Did this and can tell you it's a game changer. Before I had glue everywhere on my rope, clothes etc. For the finishing touches after installing just make sure you have loads of surgical gloves to smooth off the glue. One final thing: Lappas Climbing have made a titanium expansion bolt (lappasclimbing.com/product-category/vertical/bolts/rock_anchor_titan/rock_anchor_titan_d10/). Haven't used but have seen comments on mountain project (www.mountainproject.com/forum/108887311/fixed-hardware-bolts-anchors) that the sleeve design is outdated and using a double sleeve might not be as strong as SS single sleeve design
@@erichirst4976 I agree with using the Hilit 500. I've placed many hundreds of bolts with it. It's definitely expensive and drippy, but it does seem to be the longest lasting epoxy (less porous). It also has the best working temperature range and a plenty long working time before it dries in the nozzle. I also am a huge proponent of notching the glue-ins. Mostly if doing TI with Hilti 500, since it will be so long till you have to rebolt them.
Thank you so much team! Those bolts were getting very scary... Can't wait to back there!
Thank you so much for rebolting this spectacular crag!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this. We are going Sunday and it looks like we will now be going more than once! Are all the new routes on the vertical life app?
Nice video Klara! Thanks to everyone!
Great job guys!
Was there couple of weeks ago. It was a long walk, but 100% worth it😊
Around the globe as more bolted routes are created the more the older bolts will rust.
Thanks for working on this. Pretty special hole in the ground, that one! I'm curious as to how you shipped your tool batteries over? And if you gave any thought to titanium glue ins instead of SS? I met Axel at the Grotta and he said a big impediment to Ti was expertise, but I'm also wondering about logistics and glue storage etc.
the glue in process for titanium glue ins is the exact same as stainless. Lappas climbing actually do quite affordable titanium glue ins and essentially all climbs near the sea especially in the Mediterranean should be titanium. Expansions stainless steel in this environment are not going to last
@@user-xt4ip8un5mthe Ti glue ins I've used (generation 1 Tortugas) had a little more flex than any steel glue ins I've encountered. IDK if that matters if they're recessed into a slot the modern style to look like staples after they're installed. I'd also be curious to know what glue you've used. Lappas says Hilti 500 V3 but that sounds like an expensive drippy nightmare to me.
@@erichirst4976 Titanium is definitely softer than SS and that's a concern for lower offs or threading directly through the eye of a titanium glue in. TI rings however, should be fine. I've used the Ti glue ins from Titan Climbing made in Sheffield and the instructions state they need to be recessed. Jim Titt's twist SS bolts don't need to be recessed.
I think for TI it might add a bit of strength and longevity by recessing and Martin from Titan Climbing does recommend it. Glue wise have used pure Epoxy from Rawlplug and also Vinylester from Fischer - you need the two types of glue guns. For maximum longevity and strength for sure Epoxy is better but it's expensive. Vinylester is more affordable and v strong.
Jim Titt has an excellent technique on his website for avoiding getting glue all over your ropes (link below - scroll to 'Glue Gun Holster'):
www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm
''Get a length of 100mm plastic pipe about 300mm long. Drill a hole for an attachment loop at one end and fix a carrier bag over the other to catch the drips and smears off the nozzle. As this pipe was corrugated ( it is sold as cable conduit)I used a cord and tanka but tape is just as good. When the bag is covered inside with hard glue just change it.''
Did this and can tell you it's a game changer. Before I had glue everywhere on my rope, clothes etc. For the finishing touches after installing just make sure you have loads of surgical gloves to smooth off the glue.
One final thing: Lappas Climbing have made a titanium expansion bolt (lappasclimbing.com/product-category/vertical/bolts/rock_anchor_titan/rock_anchor_titan_d10/). Haven't used but have seen comments on mountain project (www.mountainproject.com/forum/108887311/fixed-hardware-bolts-anchors) that the sleeve design is outdated and using a double sleeve might not be as strong as SS single sleeve design
@@erichirst4976 I agree with using the Hilit 500. I've placed many hundreds of bolts with it. It's definitely expensive and drippy, but it does seem to be the longest lasting epoxy (less porous). It also has the best working temperature range and a plenty long working time before it dries in the nozzle. I also am a huge proponent of notching the glue-ins. Mostly if doing TI with Hilti 500, since it will be so long till you have to rebolt them.
I surprized you didn't use glue in 316 or TI bolts. Expansion bolts aren't really sustainable in that environment
There are now Titanium expansion bolts made by Lappas. Don't know if that's what they used, but that's a new option.