Yes another Jetski video 😃 chain saw bar oil oh that’s never gonna work (sarcasm) haha gotta love the keyboard commandos. It’s kinda Jetski brothers style, and it works perfectly fine. 👍 wish I had seen this before I put that 1100 together again, just to see how to do the anaerobic gasket stuff, oh well you will see my crappy rebuild job soon. By the way 👍 I enjoyed the video
Hi. Thanks for the video on the x2 crank install. I want to make sure that there is only one crank seal on the mag side? I was not paying attention when I removed mine. Thanks George
Permatex 51813. It is a copy of Loctite 518. Just as a heads up, I have used this in the past and had great luck. On this build it works well on the cases but I did have a failure of the head gasket. I was running about 180 psi and these do have issues with heads leaking at high pressures, so I don't think it is the fault of the sealant, but worth mentioning.
Sorry it took so long to answer this... I wouldn't pack the crank bearings as you can fit a LOT in there and they will spit it all out and possibly foul a plug right away. I would put a few dabs on the crank bearings and pack the wrist pin and lower rod bearings. The main thing is to make sure you get lots of grease on the seals.
Love your videos. Quick question. I have a Kawasaki X2 650 motor Had 135 compression in front and 150 in the rear. Tore it down, crank appeared to be in good condition, pistons appeared to be in good condition. All I changed was the gaskets, piston bearings, and rings. Honed the cylinders with a ball hone, and now I am getting 120 front & 150 rear? Any ideas? Maybe the hone smoothed the front cylinder out too much.
Your low compression could be for a number of reasons, but the most likely culprit is excessive ring end gap. By honing, you would have only increased this slightly. It should be noted that most two cycle engines end up failing catastrophically (broken cases and trashed cylinders) because the pistons are loose. This cause them to slap around in the cylinders until they crack and then pieces of broken piston destroy the rest of your engine. My suggestion is to pull it back apart and check your piston to cylinder clearance as well as your ring end gap (according to the manual) and replace these parts if they are worn / too lose. Note: your cylinder may also be worn, and you need more tools and more checks to determine this. Your best bet is to bite the bullet and go with a 1st oversize piston set and start over fresh by having your cylinders professionally bored / honed.
@@FastFlash-dg2fc Ideally, you would measure the bore to determine what size it is currently at. If there are no scratches, you can probably go .5mm, but if you go 1mm, there will be less risk of you not going big enough. (due to scratches or wear)
That's a good thing for sure. You'll want to check your squish carefully on both. When you are running .060" a few thou doesn't matter much... but when you are running .032", a few thou can mean touching. Also forgot to mention in my other comment that my 650 crank was welded...I don't think it makes any difference in flex, but it may. I believe it was a SBT crank and they weld them just to stop them from coming apart.
Hi Joel. Hope you are doing good. I have another question? I checked the squish on the x2. 650 and I’m at0.083 with the base gasket and head gasket simi torqued . Do u know how far base and head gasket will compress to after final torquing down. Thanks George
Hello George. Much of this depends on what type, brand and thickness the gaskets are. There's no way for me to say for sure, but I would say .005" to .010" in total squish lots. What I generally do is check without any gaskets and then add the thickness of the gaskets minus.010" for my estimation.
The exact stuff I used was Permatex #51850 . It is a copy of Loctite 518. Part # 2096059. I will note that the Permatex didn't hold up on my cylinder head. I think I was running around 175 psi and these heads have issues with sealing. It did work fine on the base and other places.
This all gets a litte more complicated than it may first appear. Removing .043" from your head will not reduce your squish by .043" (usually). The Kawasaki pistons generally do not come all the way to the top of the cylinders. It either takes a LOT of calculations, at Lot of trial and error or a whole lot of luck to get the squish to what you intended. If you try to remove all of the material off of your head, You will end up with a squish that starts inside of the bore... So you have a 76mm bore (let's say) and your OEM head squish starts at 76mm. If you remove more than a few thou, you will have a squish that starts at 73mm and has a flat spot around the circumference. The best way to avoid this is to measure the step in your cylinder head and mill that amount off, mostly just to true the head up so that you have a nice flat gasket surface. Then measure your squish and remove the remaining material from the top of your cylinders. It's a pain as you need to remove the cylinder and all of the studs ... but it's the best way.
Thanks Joel . I did notice that the step was low on the piston to the cylinder rim and was wondering about that. I totally agree about everything you explained, thank you so much for taking the time to write that out for me. That really got me thinking I have already lifted the exhaust roof slightly and transfers ports .I think I should remove from the bottom of the cylinder for the lowering of the cylinder jug to establish the low step on the piston and slight timing advance due to the porting . The step is between.035,.040. Do you think I could remove .043 from the bottom of the cylinder ? Thanks again for the reply I am very grateful. Please let me know what you think. George
@@georgevanhorn2007 If you have removed more than 2mm from the top of the exhaust port while porting, then you may want to take it from the base of the cylinder, but the 650 can handle 2mm of extra port timing, so if you are not more than that, I would remove it from the top of the cylinders.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam Thanks again Joel for your help , I really appreciated it. I Have removed about 2mm from the exhaust roof and widen it some , not to much. Transfers slightly widen them and raise some. I’ll remove from the bottom to compensate for porting. I will do a light resurface on Top of the cylinder to make it is true for the gasket. Could I send you a picture to make sure the port work looks proper? Thanks George
@@georgevanhorn2007 Hey George. Sounds like you are on the right track and taking all the right steps. It's pretty hard to tell from photos if you have done porting right or wrong, unless it is really bad. I usually don't do a lot around the transfers as keeping them pointed in the right direction is much more important than opening them up, but what is done is done. I generally clean up the casting marks and smoothen out the transition between the linder and casting. I wouldn't worry about this... I would just keep doing what you are doing, build your engine and hope that your transfer still do what you want them to do.
Thanks for your help on the confirmation on the crank seal question. I have built a lot of high performance chain saws and usually set the squish on a saw that has a 56mm piston as close as 0.23” to 0.25” and have hade no issues with any contact so far at rpms 13,000. The saws have been running hard for years . What do you recommend I set the squish on the 650 x2? It has new crank bearings , rist pin bearings 78mm pistons. I Hope your day blessed . Thanks George
I was running mine at around .032" with 160psi and didn't have any issues, but your results may vary. I modified my head to have a 1º taper on the squish and made a copper o-ring to avoid leaking compression. I ran 104 octane at the end, but had been running 94 octane at 150 psi with no issues.
Thanks again for helping on another question on the 650 build. I will set the squish at 0.32 also. I fell confident that should be good. That’s a good idea to weld the crank , solid process no chance for it to come apart. Do you have a favorite ski ? Thanks again, i am grateful. George
Yes another Jetski video 😃 chain saw bar oil oh that’s never gonna work (sarcasm) haha gotta love the keyboard commandos. It’s kinda Jetski brothers style, and it works perfectly fine. 👍 wish I had seen this before I put that 1100 together again, just to see how to do the anaerobic gasket stuff, oh well you will see my crappy rebuild job soon. By the way 👍 I enjoyed the video
im subbed to you as well! love the vids. funny and cool stuff! give me your x2 before you hack away at it lol.
joel arseneault I’m definitely going to be using the gasket maker your way, now that I know how to do it haha
love the vids! keep it up! ive always wanted an x2 but i cant find any near me :( so ill just watch your vids and keep dreaming...lol. thanks!
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam no i dont have one yet but have the money just waiting for the right ski
Hi. Thanks for the video on the x2 crank install. I want to make sure that there is only one crank seal on the mag side? I was not paying attention when I removed mine. Thanks George
Yes that's correct. Two on the PTO and one on the MAG. 👌
What is the name of the sealant you used?
Permatex 51813. It is a copy of Loctite 518.
Just as a heads up, I have used this in the past and had great luck. On this build it works well on the cases but I did have a failure of the head gasket. I was running about 180 psi and these do have issues with heads leaking at high pressures, so I don't think it is the fault of the sealant, but worth mentioning.
Just to be sure, it is okay if I pack the crankshaft bearings and wrist pins bearings with assemblee goo correct?
Sorry it took so long to answer this... I wouldn't pack the crank bearings as you can fit a LOT in there and they will spit it all out and possibly foul a plug right away. I would put a few dabs on the crank bearings and pack the wrist pin and lower rod bearings. The main thing is to make sure you get lots of grease on the seals.
Joel Arseneault I’m also planning on using bar and chai oil for the bearings and super tech marine grease for the oil seals and outer bearings
Love your videos. Quick question.
I have a Kawasaki X2 650 motor
Had 135 compression in front and 150 in the rear.
Tore it down, crank appeared to be in good condition, pistons appeared to be in good condition.
All I changed was the gaskets, piston bearings, and rings.
Honed the cylinders with a ball hone, and now I am getting 120 front & 150 rear?
Any ideas? Maybe the hone smoothed the front cylinder out too much.
Your low compression could be for a number of reasons, but the most likely culprit is excessive ring end gap. By honing, you would have only increased this slightly.
It should be noted that most two cycle engines end up failing catastrophically (broken cases and trashed cylinders) because the pistons are loose. This cause them to slap around in the cylinders until they crack and then pieces of broken piston destroy the rest of your engine.
My suggestion is to pull it back apart and check your piston to cylinder clearance as well as your ring end gap (according to the manual) and replace these parts if they are worn / too lose. Note: your cylinder may also be worn, and you need more tools and more checks to determine this. Your best bet is to bite the bullet and go with a 1st oversize piston set and start over fresh by having your cylinders professionally bored / honed.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam when taking the cylinder in to get it bored. I am wanting to get it bored 1mm from the standard 76mm already?
@@FastFlash-dg2fc Ideally, you would measure the bore to determine what size it is currently at. If there are no scratches, you can probably go .5mm, but if you go 1mm, there will be less risk of you not going big enough. (due to scratches or wear)
Sorry also have hade the domes in the head machined evenly for even compression
That's a good thing for sure. You'll want to check your squish carefully on both. When you are running .060" a few thou doesn't matter much... but when you are running .032", a few thou can mean touching.
Also forgot to mention in my other comment that my 650 crank was welded...I don't think it makes any difference in flex, but it may. I believe it was a SBT crank and they weld them just to stop them from coming apart.
Hi Joel. Hope you are doing good. I have another question? I checked the squish on the x2. 650 and I’m at0.083 with the base gasket and head gasket simi torqued . Do u know how far base and head gasket will compress to after final torquing down. Thanks George
Hello George. Much of this depends on what type, brand and thickness the gaskets are. There's no way for me to say for sure, but I would say .005" to .010" in total squish lots. What I generally do is check without any gaskets and then add the thickness of the gaskets minus.010" for my estimation.
Can you send me The exact sealant you used
The exact stuff I used was Permatex #51850 . It is a copy of Loctite 518. Part # 2096059.
I will note that the Permatex didn't hold up on my cylinder head. I think I was running around 175 psi and these heads have issues with sealing. It did work fine on the base and other places.
The only way I trust is the arseneault way! Joel If you said you used Mrs. Buttersworth syrup I would be ready to do it to all my engines!
Forgot to mention I was thinking about shaving of .043 and rechecking squish. What do you think? George
This all gets a litte more complicated than it may first appear. Removing .043" from your head will not reduce your squish by .043" (usually). The Kawasaki pistons generally do not come all the way to the top of the cylinders. It either takes a LOT of calculations, at Lot of trial and error or a whole lot of luck to get the squish to what you intended.
If you try to remove all of the material off of your head, You will end up with a squish that starts inside of the bore... So you have a 76mm bore (let's say) and your OEM head squish starts at 76mm. If you remove more than a few thou, you will have a squish that starts at 73mm and has a flat spot around the circumference.
The best way to avoid this is to measure the step in your cylinder head and mill that amount off, mostly just to true the head up so that you have a nice flat gasket surface. Then measure your squish and remove the remaining material from the top of your cylinders. It's a pain as you need to remove the cylinder and all of the studs ... but it's the best way.
Thanks Joel . I did notice that the step was low on the piston to the cylinder rim and was wondering about that. I totally agree about everything you explained, thank you so much for taking the time to write that out for me. That really got me thinking I have already lifted the exhaust roof slightly and transfers ports .I think I should remove from the bottom of the cylinder for the lowering of the cylinder jug to establish the low step on the piston and slight timing advance due to the porting . The step is between.035,.040. Do you think I could remove .043 from the bottom of the cylinder ? Thanks again for the reply I am very grateful. Please let me know what you think. George
@@georgevanhorn2007 If you have removed more than 2mm from the top of the exhaust port while porting, then you may want to take it from the base of the cylinder, but the 650 can handle 2mm of extra port timing, so if you are not more than that, I would remove it from the top of the cylinders.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam Thanks again Joel for your help , I really appreciated it. I Have removed about 2mm from the exhaust roof and widen it some , not to much. Transfers slightly widen them and raise some. I’ll remove from the bottom to compensate for porting. I will do a light resurface on Top of the cylinder to make it is true for the gasket. Could I send you a picture to make sure the port work looks proper? Thanks George
@@georgevanhorn2007 Hey George. Sounds like you are on the right track and taking all the right steps. It's pretty hard to tell from photos if you have done porting right or wrong, unless it is really bad. I usually don't do a lot around the transfers as keeping them pointed in the right direction is much more important than opening them up, but what is done is done. I generally clean up the casting marks and smoothen out the transition between the linder and casting.
I wouldn't worry about this... I would just keep doing what you are doing, build your engine and hope that your transfer still do what you want them to do.
Thanks for your help on the confirmation on the crank seal question. I have built a lot of high performance chain saws and usually set the squish on a saw that has a 56mm piston as close as 0.23” to 0.25” and have hade no issues with any contact so far at rpms 13,000. The saws have been running hard for years . What do you recommend I set the squish on the 650 x2? It has new crank bearings , rist pin bearings 78mm pistons. I Hope your day blessed . Thanks George
I was running mine at around .032" with 160psi and didn't have any issues, but your results may vary. I modified my head to have a 1º taper on the squish and made a copper o-ring to avoid leaking compression.
I ran 104 octane at the end, but had been running 94 octane at 150 psi with no issues.
Thanks again for helping on another question on the 650 build. I will set the squish at 0.32 also. I fell confident that should be good. That’s a good idea to weld the crank , solid process no chance for it to come apart. Do you have a favorite ski ? Thanks again, i am grateful. George
Forgot to mention on the head the shape is identical to the piston head
Was the compression to much for the stock gasket? How did you make the copper on ?
@@georgevanhorn2007 I currently have an 1100 Kawasaki triple in my X2 and I love it. It is thrilling and sounds amazing.
Your wire wheel set up is 1000% cool!