You have made an excellent video tutorial. I'm going to help a friend do his Catalytic converters, and your video showed everything from start to finish. Difficult to film with a phone, but you did a patient and excellent job! Thanks for the good work!
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to put it together…..if you notice at 31:40 you can see one of those spring loaded bolts broke off in the cat. I have a similar situation right now. If you were re using that catalytic converter, how would you clean up that nut to thread in a new bolt? I wonder in there’s a way to do it from underneath the car while the cat is still attached to the engine.
Thanks for your comment. To answer your question, i believe that a tap and die set is the way to go to clean the thread. I know it's expensive to buy a set, but that is what has helped me clean threads and fix damaged threads. It has been a while since I did that work, but if you can reach it with the tap and die set, you should be able to do from underneath.
@@fixit9888 thanks so much for your insight. I think you make a good point about the tap. As for doing it on or off the car, I guess the only way to really know will be to see how it goes when I finally get around to tackling this project.
I've got an answer as I'm in the rust belt and have the same issue.. The forward bolt is accessible underneath the vehicle and you can snap off the now what looks like a matchstick bolt that may or may not still have the spring attached. You can then drill out the remaining bolt shaft again, accessible underneath. What the bolt threads into is welded onto the upper cat. No need to be careful while drilling out the old bolt as all the new flange bolt sets I've seen also come with a brand new nut that even if you muck up the threads in the upper cat, the new bolt will simply ignore those old threads and will attach to your new nut. As for the rearward flange spring bolt set... I haven't figured out a way to tap it's rusted ass out of there yet from under the car (which is why I'm here). I think the best course of action is to remove upper cat completely and that way you have better clearance with tapping out the corroded bolt. Goood luck!! -I'm one bolt into this project and spent about 4hrs extracting said bolt. Ugh.
Hello, I watched your video. It was a very good explanation .thank you. My question is, I have honda crv, ex.l ,/ 2.4 / 2011 sedan , I have the same problem. Is it the same part that can be changed for my car model ?
You have to go to hondapartsnow.com, enter your vehicle information. Then in the search engine type : catalytic converter. It will give you the part number for your vehicle . The reason I can't answer your question directly is because I need to know if it's AWD or 2WD
Instead of removing the wiper cowl and all that non sense. You can just remove the air box. One ten mm bolt that holds the bottom on and the clamp at the throttle body. Then pull the plastic case that's on the motor forward from it's holding tabs. And your done you can now pull the cat through the side opening out
Hice el cambio de los catalizadores y es verdad que el que va en el motor lo pude sacar por donde dijiste , muy práctico y rápido, mis respeto para usted
Some people remove the catalytic converter and they reinstall it when they have to do their emissions. . If your car was equipped with one when it was manufactured, federal law prohibits it from being removed.The engine control module in modern vehicles is designed to work with the catalytic converter in place. Removing or bypassing the converter can cause the ECM to receive incorrect data, leading to poor engine performance, reduced fuel efficiency, and potential damage to other components such as oxygen sensors.
I just replaced my catalytic converter on a 2011 CRV. Just lift the car and slide it out the bottom. No need to remove panels from the top. Maybe it’s different on the 2010 CRV. But on the 2011 CRV there’s a large open space underneath where the cat can slide out.
Al principio huele un poco mal. Pero después para. Si el humo salía antes y todavía sale, puede ser que la junta de culata está dañada. Que el agua se está corriendo dentro de los pistones. Si ese es el caso, tienes que arreglar eso porque se te puede dañar el catalizador de nuevo .
@@fixit9888el humo solo sale por el cambio , anteriormente no salía, lo q me sigue saliendo es el Check engine , debo de quitarlo con el aparato que lee los problemas ??
@@fixit9888 ya no sale humo amigo , pero sigue saliendo el código del catalizador y ya le cambié los únicos dos sensores q lleva , es un honda crv 2011, le borre el check con el escaner y salió de nuevo 🤷♂️
Thank you for posting this. I couldn’t get a mechanic to replace this for me so i did it by watching your video. You are a lifesaver and money saver.
You have made an excellent video tutorial. I'm going to help a friend do his Catalytic converters, and your video showed everything from start to finish. Difficult to film with a phone, but you did a patient and excellent job! Thanks for the good work!
Great video. Your explanation and instructions were extremely concise. Thank you.
Best video impossible to get lost thank you so much
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to put it together…..if you notice at 31:40 you can see one of those spring loaded bolts broke off in the cat. I have a similar situation right now. If you were re using that catalytic converter, how would you clean up that nut to thread in a new bolt? I wonder in there’s a way to do it from underneath the car while the cat is still attached to the engine.
Thanks for your comment. To answer your question, i believe that a tap and die set is the way to go to clean the thread. I know it's expensive to buy a set, but that is what has helped me clean threads and fix damaged threads. It has been a while since I did that work, but if you can reach it with the tap and die set, you should be able to do from underneath.
@@fixit9888 thanks so much for your insight. I think you make a good point about the tap. As for doing it on or off the car, I guess the only way to really know will be to see how it goes when I finally get around to tackling this project.
I've got an answer as I'm in the rust belt and have the same issue..
The forward bolt is accessible underneath the vehicle and you can snap off the now what looks like a matchstick bolt that may or may not still have the spring attached. You can then drill out the remaining bolt shaft again, accessible underneath. What the bolt threads into is welded onto the upper cat. No need to be careful while drilling out the old bolt as all the new flange bolt sets I've seen also come with a brand new nut that even if you muck up the threads in the upper cat, the new bolt will simply ignore those old threads and will attach to your new nut.
As for the rearward flange spring bolt set... I haven't figured out a way to tap it's rusted ass out of there yet from under the car (which is why I'm here). I think the best course of action is to remove upper cat completely and that way you have better clearance with tapping out the corroded bolt.
Goood luck!! -I'm one bolt into this project and spent about 4hrs extracting said bolt. Ugh.
Your video was really helpful, it made my work easier. thank you very much. good job
Thank you for watching. Hopefully it will help many others. Good luck on your repairs.
Thanks for showing us all the part numbers in components Bro.! What's the part number for the upper Cadillac converter ?
The part number for the first catalytic converter is 18190-REZ-A00.
AMIGO ESTOY VIENDO ATENTAMENTE TU VIDEO PORQ LO VOY HACER , MUCHAS GRACIAS
Hello, I watched your video. It was a very good explanation .thank you. My question is, I have honda crv, ex.l ,/ 2.4 / 2011 sedan , I have the same problem. Is it the same part that can be changed for my car model ?
You have to go to hondapartsnow.com, enter your vehicle information. Then in the search engine type : catalytic converter. It will give you the part number for your vehicle . The reason I can't answer your question directly is because I need to know if it's AWD or 2WD
@FixIt thank you so much I appreciate your help
Instead of removing the wiper cowl and all that non sense. You can just remove the air box. One ten mm bolt that holds the bottom on and the clamp at the throttle body. Then pull the plastic case that's on the motor forward from it's holding tabs. And your done you can now pull the cat through the side opening out
I would have loved to try that when I did mine. Thanks for the info .
PUEDE SER POSIBLE ESA MANERA , PORQUE VEO MANGUERA QUE PASAN POR AHÍ??
Hice el cambio de los catalizadores y es verdad que el que va en el motor lo pude sacar por donde dijiste , muy práctico y rápido, mis respeto para usted
So glad for your comment. I removed the air box and the A-pipe came out easily. Thank you!
You don't need any thing to pry the arm from the wiper transmission , just push down on the arm and it will get unseated
Pero porque hay que quitar tanta piezas ?
Do you need the catalict converter back on? Can you just not have it on the car?
Some people remove the catalytic converter and they reinstall it when they have to do their emissions. . If your car was equipped with one when it was manufactured, federal law prohibits it from being removed.The engine control module in modern vehicles is designed to work with the catalytic converter in place. Removing or bypassing the converter can cause the ECM to receive incorrect data, leading to poor engine performance, reduced fuel efficiency, and potential damage to other components such as oxygen sensors.
@@fixit9888 Thanks for the advise. That sucks, I want to take off as many things on the car as I can get away with :D
I just replaced my catalytic converter on a 2011 CRV. Just lift the car and slide it out the bottom. No need to remove panels from the top. Maybe it’s different on the 2010 CRV. But on the 2011 CRV there’s a large open space underneath where the cat can slide out.
Did you replace both Catalytic converters or just one?
@@fixit9888 just one, the upper one attached to back of engine
Both
Why is there a cat after the second sensorr?
That went through my mind also as I was working on the car. I do not know why they do not appear to be monitoring the second catalytic converter.
AMIGO , LUEGO DE PONER LOS CATALIZADORES NUEVO , ES NORMAL EL HUMO QUE SALE ??
Al principio huele un poco mal. Pero después para. Si el humo salía antes y todavía sale, puede ser que la junta de culata está dañada. Que el agua se está corriendo dentro de los pistones. Si ese es el caso, tienes que arreglar eso porque se te puede dañar el catalizador de nuevo .
@@fixit9888el humo solo sale por el cambio , anteriormente no salía, lo q me sigue saliendo es el Check engine , debo de quitarlo con el aparato que lee los problemas ??
@@abel3745 que código te sale? Y que cambio? Dices que sale humo por la conección ?
@@fixit9888 ya no sale humo amigo , pero sigue saliendo el código del catalizador y ya le cambié los únicos dos sensores q lleva , es un honda crv 2011, le borre el check con el escaner y salió de nuevo 🤷♂️
@@abel3745 instalaste un catalizador original? Y el sensor, es original?
No, instead of lifting the arm all the way up what u should do is push down and you can lift up the whole arm