After watching about 30 videos on replacing brake rotors in preparation to perform the job myself, this was the last one I watched. Absolutely the best! Best lighting, best angles, best tips, best editing. THIS video shows EVERYTHING. Thank you, sir!
i own and operate a repair That was probably the best automotive video I have ever seen Not only did you cover everything But you didn't waste any time showing unneeded things Keep up the good work and thank you
I didn't know I could "swivel" the caliper, thanks for posting and sharing, one other thing, please don't take it the wrong way, if I knew everything, I wouldn't be here, but I learned to always pull wrenches, rather than pushing them, for whatever that is worth.
What a great and helpful video. I got the 2005 F150 and the brakes seriously needed to be replaced, so I tightened my bootstraps and just completed the job 7/26/20. Previously, I took the truck in to have the front and rear pads and rotors replaced.. WHAT A HACK. Just learned he did not grease the pins and the rubber boots that hold the bracket for the pads; nor did he install the horseshoe wire clips that hold the discs . He literally did not touch any grease. On the positive side, he did not wipe his greasy fingers on the discs to clean his fingers off.THUMBS UP ON THIS VIDEO!
I am doing all four rotors and brakes. Bought all the hardware and boots also. Total was $540. Saved at least 1k dyi and following the vid. Thanks bro.
@@themechanic6117 one question, how did you fix the sprocket on the back of the rotor from being off true? Cause after watching your vid I checked the rotor in the box and it was already like that. Just slightly though. Does that matter? I did not see anywhere that those teeth touch anything I have a 2wd version on my 2006 f150 I am guessing that is for the 4wd types?
There shoukd be a sensor that picks up on those teeth. If yoyr truck doesnt have a sensor then dont worry about it. I used a small prying tool to bend it back into place. If there is a problem your abs light may come on
@@themechanic6117 it has the sensor. But no abs light is on. If it comes on later I do as you did and move it slightly into true. Its raining now and I dont feel like taking the tire off tonight.
Great video!! Thank u man!! I'm changing my rotors this week and was a bit hesitant. I feel very confident now after watching ur video. Your the man! 💪🏾
Looks good but would have applied anti seize to the metal backing of the pads. Yes Blue medium threadlocker on bolts. As much as rust was on the calipers I'd replace them personally. But I realize if it's someone else's vehicle budgets may not can afford. I just replaced my 06 Lariat with Napa premium coated calipers, premium coated rotors, premium pads. New spindle nuts as well. I removed Shields behind rotors while I had rotors off. Cleaned with distilled vinegar and sanded the shields, wire brushed the arms and brackets free of rust. Then wiped down arms and brackets also with white distilled vinegar. Allow to dry thoroughly. Then painted Shields and arms and brackets. Reinstalled shields. Applied tiny bit of high temp red bearing grease to axle spindle shaft before sliding it on spindle. I bled my brakes using a Harborfreight air compressor brake bleeding kit. Continue to succeed friend.
@@themechanic6117 I replaced the brakes like a year ago, then around a month ago I could hear the bearing starting to act up. Should I plan on replacing the brake pads along with the rotor just for the hell of it?
Awesome video!!! Love the extra information about the "gear" that is attached the the bearing. I just switched out my front rotor because bearing was warped. I did have unwanted ABS activity; hopefully this fixes the ABS light on my dash.
Great step by step instructions. I also have a digital torque and angle meter like the one you used. I got from Matco tools, you got me thinking i should just use it on the caliper bracket bolts and use my torque wrench on every thing else. Great job, your very informative.
I use threadlocker on every fastener - blue I have a 2010 2wd and it's the same caliper but the bolt on rotor and bearing is a crazy design. LOL I have a cabinet sandblaster to clean up the caliper bracket - works great . Well done . Cheers
Defenately different from the 2004 F-150 Heritage edition, brother, as I have to deal with the inner and outer bearings. Thanks for a very educational video.
WOW... remind me never to move to a state where it snows...... So much rust.... On such a new truck..... FK. My 2003 F150 has no rust on it... Nice video man..... Great job...
I did this front brake job two weeks ago, and ever since then I got the ABS light to stay on. WTF! So when I bought new tires afterward, I told the mechanic about my ABS light that stays on. He investigated and found on the right hub, and behind it are the teeth. One of the teeth had a crack between two teeth actually due to factory defect. That's how sensitive the ABS system is. So I went back and exchanged the new rotor for a replacement one, and put that one on today.
Great Video! 2005 RWD bearing growling, so I have to replace. Watched a ton of vids, mostly are 4WD, or gloss over the bearings being in the rotor. Your post showed everything I needed to know (love the music) with sensible pointers without attitude! Was the Harbor Freight torque wrench 1/2" drive? or3/4 with a converter? Cause that's a lot of ft#
you define the difference of 2WD versus 4WD rotors. This is a great 2WD rotor replacement. Common sense cleaning and use of grease is essential as you point out. BIG boy torque wrench is essential for 295 ft lb torqueing. Need a 500-600 ft lb torque wrench to do this job is good info to properly do this task. Great job!
Great video, after watching this I feel confident that I can do this myself. but I have to buy a few items before trying this like jack stand and torque wrenchs thank you very much
Old, but I appreciate it. I have a 2006. I've noticed the rotors are pretty notorious for warping. I've changed mine twice now and the pulsing brakes due to warped rotors is always the first indication of a break problem. I think they are under-engineered and prone to overheating. What are your thoughts on the more expensive designer cut rotors from suppliers like Power Stop? Will they last longer and are they worth the price?
Speaking of rusty calipers, by the looks of the brake fluid reservoir, ya just might have unwanted debris in the lines. Such as copper and high possibility of others, in the lines. If it were mine, I'd replace the caliper, that's just me. And always, do a brake fluid "flush", it may prolong the life of the most important system on your vehicle. God Speed,,,,
It took me four hours two pry bars a torch and a mini sledge to get the rotor off the spindle. All the videos show them sliding off by hand or maybe a small tap with a hammer the inner race was stuck on the spindle i had to heat it to get it off and the only way I could get to it was to completely destroy the bearing and rip the rotor off! Any advice for the other side I tried to take if off and it seems stuck also the truck has150k miles and no rust
Is this rotor model that has to be taken off the axle and with axle nut only for the 2WD version? Asking because I am going to do a friends soon and don’t have truck in front of me. Good video, I saw the bent reluctor ring and had caution strike me before you pointed it out.
Yes this style is only for the rwd models, if his is awd then it's actually easier because you can pull the rotor off like a normal brake job and the wheel bearing stays attached
your going to have a fun time getting those slide-pin bolts back out with that loc-tite on there >< You'll need a wrench on the slide pin itself next time
Do you remember if you bought the bearing inside the rotor already or did you buy them separate and press them in? I’ll be due for breaks and rotors soon and have been looking for the bearings and rotors already together but haven’t really been successful
What size is the cotter pin you used? Also, I wish I had a tutorial on that software you used at the end, now I'll be wondering if I have the same problem haha
Be careful with using a pipe on a ratchet because you can damage the ratcheting internal teeth on the gears in your tool. You’re much better off using a breaker bar for that job with the pipe attached. 😉
I have a snapon breaker bar...i tried it. I was just bending my breaker bar. Id rather destroy this old cheap (heavy duty) craftsman ratchet before i risk breaking my expensive breaker bar. Thats the only time i choose a ratchet and pipe over my breaker bar
The mech a nic Wow. I’ve never had that happen in my shop. Hell, I’d let your Snapon guy know. That’s crazy man. A breaker bar is always preferable to a ratchet for persuading a stubborn fixture.
On the part where you said you had to go back and fix that on back of the rotor? What you do? I bought new rotors and when I put one of them I had same problem?
After watching about 30 videos on replacing brake rotors in preparation to perform the job myself, this was the last one I watched. Absolutely the best! Best lighting, best angles, best tips, best editing. THIS video shows EVERYTHING. Thank you, sir!
Glad it helped you! Thanks for the awesome comments 👍💪
i own and operate a repair That was probably the best automotive video I have ever seen Not only did you cover everything But you didn't waste any time showing unneeded things Keep up the good work and thank you
Thank you. I appreciate the comment
I didn't know I could "swivel" the caliper, thanks for posting and sharing, one other thing, please don't take it the wrong way, if I knew everything, I wouldn't be here, but I learned to always pull wrenches, rather than pushing them, for whatever that is worth.
Great video, done my 2006 F150 brakes 3 times now, always look up before I go into it for a refresher.
Nate B thanks, yeah it's not that bad of a job 👍
What a great and helpful video. I got the 2005 F150 and the brakes seriously needed to be replaced, so I tightened my bootstraps and just completed the job 7/26/20. Previously, I took the truck in to have the front and rear pads and rotors replaced.. WHAT A HACK. Just learned he did not grease the pins and the rubber boots that hold the bracket for the pads; nor did he install the horseshoe wire clips that hold the discs . He literally did not touch any grease. On the positive side, he did not wipe his greasy fingers on the discs to clean his fingers off.THUMBS UP ON THIS VIDEO!
Best how to brake job i have seen. Thanks...
Thank you. Thanks for watching
good job!
Thanks!
I am doing all four rotors and brakes. Bought all the hardware and boots also. Total was $540. Saved at least 1k dyi and following the vid. Thanks bro.
Nice amount of money saved 👍
@@themechanic6117 one question, how did you fix the sprocket on the back of the rotor from being off true? Cause after watching your vid I checked the rotor in the box and it was already like that. Just slightly though. Does that matter? I did not see anywhere that those teeth touch anything I have a 2wd version on my 2006 f150 I am guessing that is for the 4wd types?
There shoukd be a sensor that picks up on those teeth. If yoyr truck doesnt have a sensor then dont worry about it. I used a small prying tool to bend it back into place. If there is a problem your abs light may come on
@@themechanic6117 it has the sensor. But no abs light is on. If it comes on later I do as you did and move it slightly into true. Its raining now and I dont feel like taking the tire off tonight.
If its driving fine and no abs light id leave it. Should be fine
Great video!! Thank u man!! I'm changing my rotors this week and was a bit hesitant. I feel very confident now after watching ur video. Your the man! 💪🏾
You're welcome. Just take your time and be safe
Looks good but would have applied anti seize to the metal backing of the pads. Yes Blue medium threadlocker on bolts. As much as rust was on the calipers I'd replace them personally. But I realize if it's someone else's vehicle budgets may not can afford. I just replaced my 06 Lariat with Napa premium coated calipers, premium coated rotors, premium pads. New spindle nuts as well. I removed Shields behind rotors while I had rotors off. Cleaned with distilled vinegar and sanded the shields, wire brushed the arms and brackets free of rust. Then wiped down arms and brackets also with white distilled vinegar. Allow to dry thoroughly. Then painted Shields and arms and brackets. Reinstalled shields. Applied tiny bit of high temp red bearing grease to axle spindle shaft before sliding it on spindle. I bled my brakes using a Harborfreight air compressor brake bleeding kit. Continue to succeed friend.
Wow, great tips man! Especially opening the brake fluid chamber lid.
Thank you , thanks for watching 👍
@@themechanic6117 I replaced the brakes like a year ago, then around a month ago I could hear the bearing starting to act up. Should I plan on replacing the brake pads along with the rotor just for the hell of it?
Depends if it's worn down or old. If the brakes look great you don't need to replace them.
Awesome video!!! Love the extra information about the "gear" that is attached the the bearing. I just switched out my front rotor because bearing was warped. I did have unwanted ABS activity; hopefully this fixes the ABS light on my dash.
Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair
thank you for taking the time to make this video. i really appreciate it.
You're welcome, thanks for watching 👍
Great step by step instructions. I also have a digital torque and angle meter like the one you used. I got from Matco tools, you got me thinking i should just use it on the caliper bracket bolts and use my torque wrench on every thing else. Great job, your very informative.
Its a great tool to have. Thank you for leaving a comment
You didn't tear your glove until 15:10?? Dag!! That HAS to be a world record! Mine usually get torn in less than 3... Great video, Thanks!
Yeah they usually tear quickly!
Thanks!
Good job 👍 🙏✋
Thank you
I use threadlocker on every fastener - blue I have a 2010 2wd and it's the same caliper but the bolt on rotor and bearing is a crazy design. LOL I have a cabinet sandblaster to clean up the caliper bracket - works great . Well done . Cheers
+STEVE ROB that's what I need a sand blaster ! I wonder if one of those tumbler things will work for rust..
STEVE ROB REVIEWS I’m like you video it’s good explicación buen video amigo me gusto tu explicación
Wish my rotors came off that easy, and my torch wrench is me and a backpack with the old rotors 😆
Sorry, yeah they can be a pain to get off
@@themechanic6117 don't be, well made video, job is done because of your help
@@ShortbusRejects great to hear . Thanks for watching
Thanks buddy! I’m about to attempt this job Sunday and you helped a ton. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you
Very well directed. Awesome.
Thank you
Defenately different from the 2004 F-150 Heritage edition, brother, as I have to deal with the inner and outer bearings. Thanks for a very educational video.
You're welcome.thanks for watching
Awesome dude! Came here for the CRX stuff and needed to do this on my dad's truck and was like hecknyeah! Haha great content!
Great video! Helped me tremendously! Keep up the good work! Thanks
Glad the video helped you
Nice catch on that bent tone ring. Another well edited video with good commentary.
Thank you, I guess the tone ring got damaged in shipping. It's a good thing I found it before the customer picked it up.
How did you get the tone ring back into position?
Used a punch and light taps from a hammer.
Great video! I like the background music, catchy. Every time I watch your videos you have 100 more subscribers. Keep it up!
+Brittany Gumm thank you, I appreciate all of the support. It keeps pushing me forward. Thanks for watching.
WOW... remind me never to move to a state where it snows...... So much rust.... On such a new truck..... FK. My 2003 F150 has no rust on it... Nice video man..... Great job...
+Luis Barrueta yeah these trucks take a beating up hear . Such a shame for a truck with such low miles
Agreed, it snows here in Colorado but we don't use salt where I am, so trucks have very little rust compared to salt states.
That must be nice. Cars get destroyed here
I did this front brake job two weeks ago, and ever since then I got the ABS light to stay on. WTF! So when I bought new tires afterward, I told the mechanic about my ABS light that stays on. He investigated and found on the right hub, and behind it are the teeth. One of the teeth had a crack between two teeth actually due to factory defect. That's how sensitive the ABS system is. So I went back and exchanged the new rotor for a replacement one, and put that one on today.
Great Video!
2005 RWD bearing growling, so I have to replace. Watched a ton of vids, mostly are 4WD, or gloss over the bearings being in the rotor.
Your post showed everything I needed to know (love the music) with sensible pointers without attitude!
Was the Harbor Freight torque wrench 1/2" drive? or3/4 with a converter? Cause that's a lot of ft#
Thank you. Its a 3/4 with an adapter on it to 1/2
you define the difference of 2WD versus 4WD rotors. This is a great 2WD rotor replacement. Common sense cleaning and use of grease is essential as you point out. BIG boy torque wrench is essential for 295 ft lb torqueing. Need a 500-600 ft lb torque wrench to do this job is good info to properly do this task. Great job!
Thank you
Great video, keep ‘em coming
Thanks for watching
Great video, after watching this I feel confident that I can do this myself. but I have to buy a few items before trying this like jack stand and torque wrenchs thank you very much
You're welcome
Top notch as always!
+Thomas EXOVCDS thank you .Another one bites the dust lol
Nice video man very good work
Thank you, I appreciate the comment 👍
Awesome video !!! Very helpful
Thank you. Thanks for watching
Great job
Thank you
This is a great video! Thank you!
Thank you
Good work sir
Thank you
Excelent video it really help a lot!
Thank You! 👍👍good to hear
nice and helpfull video,
Thank you
Very helpful, Thanks!
You're welcome.thanks for watching
Old, but I appreciate it. I have a 2006. I've noticed the rotors are pretty notorious for warping. I've changed mine twice now and the pulsing brakes due to warped rotors is always the first indication of a break problem. I think they are under-engineered and prone to overheating. What are your thoughts on the more expensive designer cut rotors from suppliers like Power Stop? Will they last longer and are they worth the price?
Very good video
Thank you
Speaking of rusty calipers, by the looks of the brake fluid reservoir, ya just might have unwanted debris in the lines. Such as copper and high possibility of others, in the lines. If it were mine, I'd replace the caliper, that's just me. And always, do a brake fluid "flush", it may prolong the life of the most important system on your vehicle.
God Speed,,,,
Got it done today. New pads on all four wheels, new rotors on all 4..$580...
Just for parts? Or you paid a shop?
Thanks sir .very good video.
Thank you
Love your video thanks for the help
You're welcome.thanks for watching
Great video.
Thank you
Do the rear rotors have an assembly like the front rotors or are they normal rotors?
Do you have a link to all the parts you got? Or where did you get your parts at?
From rockauto.com
It took me four hours two pry bars a torch and a mini sledge to get the rotor off the spindle. All the videos show them sliding off by hand or maybe a small tap with a hammer the inner race was stuck on the spindle i had to heat it to get it off and the only way I could get to it was to completely destroy the bearing and rip the rotor off! Any advice for the other side I tried to take if off and it seems stuck also the truck has150k miles and no rust
A slide hammer could help. You might be able to rent one
I'd rather snap off a bleeder than trigger an abs code or trigger the proportion valve to turn on a brake light on the dash.
Is this rotor model that has to be taken off the axle and with axle nut only for the 2WD version?
Asking because I am going to do a friends soon and don’t have truck in front of me. Good video, I saw the bent reluctor ring and had caution strike me before you pointed it out.
Yes this style is only for the rwd models, if his is awd then it's actually easier because you can pull the rotor off like a normal brake job and the wheel bearing stays attached
You can just replace the bearing if rotors are still good just a fyi
I don't think the rotors separate from the bearing so no you can't just replace the bearing
your going to have a fun time getting those slide-pin bolts back out with that loc-tite on there >< You'll need a wrench on the slide pin itself next time
+animefreak5757 that's all right, haven't had a problem removing them and I been doing it for years.thanks for watching: )
hmm, good to know. If i ever have a issue with those bolt's backing out i'll be sure to try loctite
Do you remember if you bought the bearing inside the rotor already or did you buy them separate and press them in? I’ll be due for breaks and rotors soon and have been looking for the bearings and rotors already together but haven’t really been successful
I bought them from rockauto. They came assemled already. Ready to go on out of the box
The mech a nic thank you!
You're welcome
Are the jack stands that you used 3 ton or rated for 6 ton?
Just got the harbor freight Pittsburg torque wrench to do this job
I been using it for years. No problems with it
This is for RWD
Yes it is
So does 2wd still have the bearing that needs 36mm socket?
Hey man question ... where did you buy the 36mm nut??
Rockauto.com 👍
What size is the cotter pin you used? Also, I wish I had a tutorial on that software you used at the end, now I'll be wondering if I have the same problem haha
So why am I not supposed to re-use the spindle nut? I don’t drive the vehicle over 50 mph and I was going to thread lock it.
Service manual says to replace it, on other cars I've reused them and never had a problem.
The mech a nic ok cool, just got anted to see where the whole replacing the nut was coming from.
Did you have issue with rotor rubbing? You mention you notice something earlier in the video
After replacing the brakes? Nothing was rubbing
Did you get that reducer at Harbor freight too?
That piece i found at my local auto parts store. Harbor freight may have it
U use threadlocker, i use antisieze lol...its the rustbelt man...it has enough threadlocker...
Lol I hear you but I don't need a brake bolt to back out on a customers car . I use to use antiseize until that very thing happened
@@themechanic6117 wont the threadlock melt as soon as those breaks get hot?
Probably. I stopped using threadlocker on brake jobs. Just make sure its properly tightened and itll be good
Be careful with using a pipe on a ratchet because you can damage the ratcheting internal teeth on the gears in your tool. You’re much better off using a breaker bar for that job with the pipe attached. 😉
Thats a risk im willing to take
The mech a nic Rather than just grabbing a ½” breaker bar?! MmmmmKAY.
I have a snapon breaker bar...i tried it. I was just bending my breaker bar. Id rather destroy this old cheap (heavy duty) craftsman ratchet before i risk breaking my expensive breaker bar. Thats the only time i choose a ratchet and pipe over my breaker bar
The mech a nic Wow. I’ve never had that happen in my shop. Hell, I’d let your Snapon guy know. That’s crazy man. A breaker bar is always preferable to a ratchet for persuading a stubborn fixture.
On the part where you said you had to go back and fix that on back of the rotor? What you do? I bought new rotors and when I put one of them I had same problem?
The tone ring for the abs was bent . I went in there with a pry bar and bent it back
So do I need to fix that ? Does it matter? What does it affect if i don't? And thanks for the help I appreciate it.
Yes you do need to fix it. It'll cause your ABS light to be on and your ABS will activate while you're driving which you don't want .
Alright sounds good thank you.
so that tone ring-a-ma-jig can just be pried into the correct position...just get it square and running true?
what grease did you used on the rotors?
You're not supposed to put grease on rotors...car won't stop...
el juice
Probably referring to axle spindle (red grease)
Great video..what would this cost in a repair shop?
I don't really know, I know it w ont be cheap
hello, I only need 2 of the FORD OE 6L3Z3C294AA - Outer Wheel Bearing Nut on my 2WD front Brake?
Dont think you need to remove the axle nut to do the rear brakes
@@themechanic6117 thank you sir
Another overly complex system from Ford. Good job.
Exactly
Can't afford a torque wrench. approximately how many swear words while leaning on a breaker bar equates to 295 foot pounds.
Will this big torque wrench I pulled up till my feet starting shaking until it finally clicked at 295 lol
It was all working fine until you messed with it.
Gruderacing
Ib CV
What a stupid design.
It's expensive to change rotors but super easy rotor/wheel bearing change.