Ford Brake Caliper Replacment w/ Tips!
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- These are the semi loaded calipers to buy Here-(check fitment guide)
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You can buy this brake bleeder here on Amazon for cheap-
www.amazon.com/...
Here is the Hook that works Best for hanging the Caliper Safely-
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Here is the Brake Dielectric Grease I use all the time-
www.amazon.com/...
I recommend Motorcraft Dot 3 Brake Fluid sold Here-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video I go over my method I have honed in over the years to make this job as easy as possible.
New R/C Channel R/C Addict Makuloco-
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This mechanic and Scotty Kilmer another excellent mechanic are the two best I seen on UA-cam👍...
did this job yesterday on my 2001 f150, rear right. Learned some tips from your video, wished that I had found your video before hand. Most important though, I want to let you know that the clarity of your videos is A1+. I think most people take for granted high quality video production. Thank you for the effort of making such a great vid that delivers the indented message leaving no questions.
You all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Giovanni Ryder instablaster :)
@Kyle Rory I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kyle Rory it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Giovanni Ryder you are welcome =)
You're videos have saved me , I'm not joking, thousands of dollars
. THANK YOU!
Sure wish every mechanic was so detailed and thorough like you are. I just took my truck and paid 900 bucks for a bad coil pack and had some fluids changed. Got the truck back yesterday with the same misfire that I originally brought it in for! Quite disgusted in the thought of spending another couple hundred to get it looked at again and not getting it running right. The labor cost was double the cost of the parts and fluids. The world needs more guys like you who care for their customers.
Plug wires
Old plugs? Gapped too big?
Nice job, great video too. I suggest that if you don't have an impact, make sure to crack the banjo bolt loose on the old caliper before you take it off. Also, if you think you might run into any trouble, you can block the brake pedal down a bit with a 2X4 or something to prevent fluid from leaking out.
Awesome video - Here in the Boston area I find that the brake caliper slide pins on my Crown Vic rust solid about every 3 years. I save the receipts and replace them for free (except my time) for as long as I own the car.
Nice work start to finish ....I especially like that you shared the tip about coating bleeder screw with grease to help seal during bleeding operation....
As a novice video guy I really appreciate how well everything is lighted and how well you have contrasting colors when zooming in on things. Thanks.
THANK you this saved me a lot of headache changing this brake caliber.
I watched the video quickly, but did you mention that slightly depressing the brake pedal will stop the fluid from gravity draining. I use an adjustable hood stick between the seat and brake pedal. The pedal only needs to move about an inch. You can walk away for hours and it won't empty your master cylinder reservoir.
I had passenger front seize and smoke, I was able to pump the brakes to get it to release enough to get to the dealer since I had a few hundred in credits waiting for me LOL - they replaced the calipers and pads but not the caliper bracket as you mentioned - but again it was the dealer, so they may not have seen the need to replace the bracket. 2005 F150, 106k miles.
They quoted me $440 for the infamous 5.4 Triton spark plug job - doesn't seem bad at all, since I've seen these quoted in the $600-$800 range.
Love your vids - keep em coming!
$440 to replace spark plugs?? In a nice, big, roomy engine? GTFO! Damn! I'm so glad my dad taught me how to do this shit! It cost me approximately $150 to replace my entire rear brakes (parking on up). The dealer would have charged me $6-800 for all that work I did. Probably would have been a lot FASTER at the dealer. . . :D
@@saltyolbroad2962 Well the 5.4L Triton engine has plugs that seize into the engine and are two-piece plugs - they will commonly break off requiring use of a Lisle extractor tool. It’s a real pain in the äss.
@@Dawgator Only the first removal though, after that they should be new ones that dont break, hard to tell if you dont know though, cheers.
i love that tip with the silicone around the bleed screw, Thanks
i learned something i have never done. add die grease on the bleeder threads to prevent air entering cal... wow never thought about that ... but i do always worry about that air entering the threads...
Great series of videos. I was replacing my front rotors and pads yesterday on my 2008 Ford F-150 4x4 with 5.4 liter. The right side caliper slide pins were installed differently than the slides pins on the the left side caliper. Both slide pins on each side had their flexible grease boots installed and intact. But one slide pin on each side has milled recess near the end of the slide that has a rubber sleeve one it. There is a section of metal below the rubber sleeve that has not been milled down and it is approximately 1/4 inch it length whereas the milled section that was milled/turned down for the rubber sleeve is approximately a 1/2 inch in length and the rubber sleeve is approximately 3/8 of an inch in length. Now for the problem.... the garage that put new brakes on for me last time had the milled slide pin w/rubber sleeve in the upper slide pin position on the left front caliper had the milled slide pin w/rubber sleeve in the lower slide pin position on the left front caliper. Do you have any suggestions for the correct placement for where the milled slide pins should be positioned? Top spot or lower spot? All 4 slide pins, rubber boots, and sleeves are in excellent condition but one of the milled slide pin with sleeve is in the wrong position as the system should be a mirrored image of each other. I hope you can help. Thanks for your time and thanks in advance either way.
Sincerely,
Ron
P.S. Sorry for the long winded question.
Ron
Great video - very clear instructions. You are a very good teacher/instructor. Thank you.
Good job. Very professional.
Thanks, our Excursion has always had problems with calipers.
You helped me earlier diagnose a bad transmission pump-shaft and damaged pump housing on a 2000 Windstar, thanks so much !!! Keep up the good work, you're a good tech !!!!!
hey Brian thanks man I have watched your videos and I learned so much from you I have a 2012 F350 Diesel 6.7 liter even though you talked about a lot of things on other vehicles when you do the segments on these trucks it helps me a lot including all the little stuff that I learn from your different categories so thank you for what you do I appreciate you man
Thanks for this information - it's invaluable, especially before I change out my caliper tomorrow. Your videos are great.
If I buy an old car and do a brake job I always replace the rubber lines. They are dirt cheap if you DIY(at least do the front) and had quite a few high mileage ones fail on me! The symptoms are the same as a bad caliper.
I've done brake jobs on my VWs.... Nice and easy....will be replacing my caliper on my Ford flex.... Seems the same... Same approach as you. Well done.
Thanks man, super helpfeul, did my 05 grand marquis a month ago, doing my brothers 06f150 and needed to get some calipers. i only torqued my banjo to 25 ,but i think i should be good.i will double check any leaks
You are one of the best. Very professional!!
Brian great tips again ! I like the silicon grease on bleeder nut threads wow maybe in 5 years the bleeders will open rather than break off ! Thanks
Great Video, thanks. I just did my rear caliper and your hints helped.
As far as temperature testing for dragging brakes, I discovered mine on the front of my Expedition was binding when I would go to the car wash. I'd wash each wheel well, and when I'd get to the front passenger, water on the rotor or caliper would just roil into steam and boil off, and I'd think, hmm that's odd. After suspecting it for a bit, recently it started binding hard enough that if I reversed it would drag the dire through gravel. Time to replace everything :(
Thanks for the great video, I have my 07 f-150 in my shop about to take off the right front caliper and this has helped me a great deal. I am looking for a video that shows how to replace the pinion bearings for an 09 f-350 with drw that is 4x4 diesel and manual trans. If you have any such video I would love to see it, just point it out plz, Thanks a ton!!!
+three forks No videos on that sorry.
Best tips on brakes an calipers thank you wish I found tu his earlier
I really appreciate all of your videos you are amazing thank you very much
Thanks for your videos, they are tremendous help for people who want to attempt some of these jobs for their vehicles. I am going to replace all brake components on my 96 F350 OBS 7.3 soon.
I need to replace the brakes on my 08 F150. With your knowledge sharing I will do it myself.
YOUR VIDEO WAS OUTSTANDING CLEAR VERY GOOD YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF MAN....
On a 2006 f150 do the slide pins with the rubber piece go in the upper or lower hole?
Thank you so much, all of your videos are very helpful. God bless and have a blessed day
Thank you for sharing your tips & tricks!
Aren't they composite pistons of some sort? How can they seize in there? I guess the bore is steel so that can rust.
Great video.
Oh they seize all the time.
Thanks for the tips. It made it a lot easier to do my own caliper. I put up a video of how I did mine.
Good vid. I hate it when people don't know how and when to use anti-seize correctly.
Bought a 96 Mustang and I've been going through it. Previous owner put anti-seize on all the caliper bracket anchor bolts. Even on the wheel nut studs!
Chad Ross Did you have any problems with disassembly?
Chad Ross Oh wow!
I may be replacing or rebuilding the caliper on the passenger rear of my ‘96 explorer next week. Thoughts on repair v. Replacement?
very informative, thank you Brian
Thank you for all your videos.
Great tips. I have been doing this level of brakes for years and still learn something new. What type of grease do you use on the bleeder valve?
Appreciate it. Sisters Merc had a leaking caliper. Wanted to know what I was heading into
Thanks for this awesome video! Your explanations are clear and easy to follow. What should i check in the first place when my parking brake lever needs a couple of activations before it engages? (2008 Taurus-X) I was thinking about replacing rear parking brake cables that are probably stretched? I am puzzled with this one! Thank you!
Really good video. Thanks for posting.
Always great tips and information. Thank you for all you do.
Talk about rust, this truck is the winner 🏆
Thanks for sharing your knowledge , i enjoy all your videos and learned alot on how to service my f150. i am about to perform a caliper replacement on my truck but is this procedure also apply for abs cars and trucks is there any type of need for a scanner to bleed the abs pump or system after this repair?
Did you ever get a response?
Thank you..now i can do mine.
Dose this apply for the rear calipers aswell
You have excellent camera work! Your video was great! Had to redo the rear brakes and haven't done it for a while. One question, though: does it matter which way the brake line is attached? I took mine off without noting which way it was on. There was a notch that looked like it had to go on a certain way, but it then the hose would interfere with the caliper pins if I put it on that way. Eventually, I got it on (I guess we'll see if it's right! haha); but, a recap of whether it is important would have been good--at least for me! :D
Damn glad I watched this! Can't thank you enough.
First, I really appreciate your expertise and videos. They have helped me out countless times, and saved me $$$$$. However, I followed your instructions regarding keeping the pads out while bleeding the brakes, and while doing so the rubber boot that is inside of one of the cylinders of the caliper looks like it was stretched too far and tore. Now either it was my error or it was a failed part. I'm interested on what you think? Without the pads in did I over extend the piston or were the piston rubber seals faulty?
for a 2003 f150 2wd what type of pads do you recommend (brand name)? Semi Metallic or Ceramic?
Excellent Video & explanation.
Back to the basic! Nice. Thanks
Makuloco! Thanks for your video. One of the rotors was sutcked I disassembly one rotor and found I placed 2 inner pads in one side and the other rotor has the other pads. I installed the same pads in the correct way and it appears right now is working fine. I have to make further test to check if it really fix the problem. Thanks!
Arturo Garcia Nice!
The blueish black color of the rotor is another sign of caliper seizing.
Excellent video!
I appreciate the video 😀
Lovin the videos man. Very detailed and helpful. Keep them coming :-)
I have a 2008 Ford Expedition. When I step on the brakes, the truck starts to bounce.(The faster I'm going when coming to a stop, the more the vehicle hops.)
I raised the vehicle and spun the front wheels. Had a helper step on the brakes, the driver side stops but the passenger side keeps spinning.
Is the caliper bad or is there another issue that it could be?
Thank you for all of your videos, very helpful. Have a blessed day.
Good video as always man! Would a 16 f350 be a similar process?
I think I missed the brake line itself in your vid or did brake fluid just not pour out?
I never depress the pedal all the way to the floor, I ONLY go down as far as normal travel. Why? Because an older master cylinder will have crud built up in the portion of the stroke where the piston never goes during normal brake use. If you send that piston all the way down into that crud during bleeding or seating the pads it will damage the rubber piston cups; there a good chance that customer will be back soon with a brake pedal that sinks to the floor at stop lights.
great video !
Good video, may i have the part number for your tprque wrench i know its Natco and flex head but i always see you use it and also your impact gun
What did u use to bleed them??
Great video. Are you using a power vacuum bleeder?
To reduce the amount of fluid loss while the brake line is disconnected, I like to take needle nose vise grips with fuel line over the 'needles' and clamp the flexible brake line closed near the end of the line. The fuel line is to prevent damaging the brake line. Doesn't take a lot of pressure. 'Snug' usually does the trick. Works great. I've used that technique a ton of times over the years with no issues or damaged brake lines.
Pet Rock's Garage Yes vac bleeder is used. I never liked clamping the brake hose even with the tool designed for it IDK that is just me being overly cautious but many other do it no problems like you say.
Can pushing brake pedal to the floor damage master cylinder seals?
great video......helped a lot.....thanks.....
im in ny where they use a lot of salt that being said sometimes brake bleeder screws are very difficult to get out with out braking them off then you have a whole other issue makes more work and the price just went up and the customer has to wait longer and pay more. I wont put myself or my customer though that. I will how ever make a atempt to losen it sometimes you get lucky
Great channel and Info! I'm a long time viewer and I've got a question. Getting ready to replace the two front calipers on a 2015 F150 should i go with rebuilt calipers or new ones? I can get either at basically the same price at my local ford dealer. The only difference is the rebuilt ones come with the brackets, slides, bushings etc. Whats your opinion on rebuilt calipers vs new ones?
If available, I will always go for new.
Excellent...keep up the good work...
Awsome thank you sir.
Muy bien Brian!!excelente video!!
Replaced everything after what i thought was a seizure on passenger side caliper. All new still seems to be overheating on that side..? What else do i change?
Thank you as always
another good video my good sir
My pistons on my caliper popped out because I pressed the brake without the pads or disc. Can I just remove the seal and reinsert it ?
Thanks for the tips.
Great Job! Why not change out the flexible hose at the same time as caliper change. Part is cheap, and it will eliminate a future source of problems. Cheap insurance to say the least. Please comment.
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Tutorial Great video brilliant thank you
God bless you and all your family around you. FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great tips! thanks for share!
2015 f450 xl front caliper anti rattle spring how does it go in
wow grease on the bleeder screw awesome tip
Helped. Thank you Sir!
What can I do to ensure I evacuate all the air without a shop vacuum system?
Thanks for all the videos...i have a quick question.i went to do a front pad replacement on a 97 expedition.. but i noticed who ever did it before had rounded the torx bolt for the caliper..is it possible to change the pad if i remove the caliper and bracket as a unit? Or do i need to buy a new caliper? The calipers themselves function normally thanks in advance
***** Yes you can do it that way also no problem.
FordTechMakuloco thanks for reply just want to make sure i thought the pad on the piston side was pinched between the bracket and caliper and the caliper had to be removed from bracket to remove and i stall.
Hey sorry for a late reply but my buddy who is a ford master tech tells me to not bleed these brakes every two years for the fluid swap, because its so easy for air to get into the abs pump. Then you need to pay ford to run the abs bleed procedure. Is that true? Your making want to change my 7 year old fluid out tomorrow if its that simple with a bleeder which i have.
Thank you
I had replace the front right brake caliper and rotors, and don't have any idea how this is starting to again sticks? And is normal rear get to full of brake dust after washing in the next two to three days? Looks like I rotate my tires but no noise . It a 07 Expedition EL.
I got a 08 Ford f150 2wd truck. My pads were wearing down,and I was going to change after the New Years day. Christmas Eve, my right Caliper tore into my Front Right Rotor and left some serious Grooves in it. It made a Grinding Noise. I had to drive another 60 Miles home like that. It didn't hurt the Front Drivers side. I just put the Rotors(wheel bearings in them) on 3 years ago.
Would you say the Caliper on passenger side is Shot ? Or just Pins need greased ? And I'm going to only replace the Bad Rotor.
What would make one side grind a Rotor ?
Thanks.
I like Amy Grant's version of "My Grownup Christmas Wish" better than the dude in the background.
Weird to me, that my 2006 F-150 has 13mm caliper slider bolt heads on one side, and 16mm bolt heads on the other.
Also, curious why one of those sliders has a little rubber sleeve on one bolt of each side.
Yup they have been replaced, the 13mm is stock.
Excellent video but I wish you would have changed the brake line also.
Brake caliper piston: phenolic vs metal? Why?
What is Ford Original Equipment for F250 Super Duty?
I didn’t notice the end of the code on the box had an L and an R and I put the R on the drivers side , am I in trouble
it would be any problems if i only replace just one caliper or do i have to do both even if the other one is good??
Okay, I did a complete brake booster master cylinder brake calipers. Brake lines at complete assessment of the braking system the ABS module everything is working accordingly. Put on my 1997 Ford F150. My front brakes will not release. I bled the system. Maybe I didn't bleed it good enough. Can anyone give me any ideas because everything else is working completely fine. Why would my front brakes only? Be sticking and not releasing.