Testing Rebuilt Tractor Hydraulic Cylinders
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Installing and testing the hydraulic cylinders I rebuilt in a previous video ( • Rebuilding Tractor Hyd... ). I used new hydraulic hoses and fittings to reattach the cylinders to the front end loader on my 1955 Ford 860 tractor. See the links below for the parts and tools I used:
3/8" x 72" NPT Hydraulic Hose:
amzn.to/39xbiDJ (affiliate*)
3/4" Rubber Insulated Cable Clamps:
amzn.to/2QXxQqU (affiliate*)
3/8" NPT Hydraulic Fittings:
www.surpluscen...
Milwaukee Drill & Driver:
amzn.to/2UNNUMZ (affiliate*)
Milwaukee Stick Light:
amzn.to/33WCACm (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
3/8" x 72" NPT Hydraulic Hose:
amzn.to/39xbiDJ (affiliate*)
3/4" Rubber Insulated Cable Clamps:
amzn.to/2QXxQqU (affiliate*)
3/8" NPT Hydraulic Fittings:
www.surpluscenter.com
Milwaukee Drill & Driver:
amzn.to/2UNNUMZ (affiliate*)
Milwaukee Stick Light:
amzn.to/33WCACm (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Thank you sir.
I have the exact tractor with the exact hydraulic cylinder problem so many thanks for posting this.
I have another video where I rebuilt the cylinders. You might want to use some kind of sleeve to compress the rod seals before putting it in the cylinder. That way you can really tighten the nut on the end of the rod, and it won't be so much of a fight getting it back together.
Nice tractor. I have a MF135 that needs cylinder work.
Thanks Matt, it was my grandfather's tractor. It's definitely worth trying to rebuild the cylinder yourself. If you get stuck or run out of patience, you can always take it to your local hydraulics shop.
I've got a ford jubilee naa needs lots of work.... have I got a project for you...
Hahaha, I wish I would have started my UA-cam channel sooner. I did a lot of work on the tractor and it would have made some good videos. Thanks for watching!
I have a 52 8N with the older round pipe frame Dearborn front end Loader. I need to replace the O-rings and packings on the hydraulic rams as they are leaking badly. Did you have to do anything special to prime the system once you reinstalled the rebuilt rams and new hoses?
Nope, from what I understand, any air in the hoses or cylinders is forced into the hydraulic fluid as small bubbles which are then carried back to the sump where the air can escape.
I have a loader that goes up but not down?? it's 1/2 inch single line to a T to 90 degree elbow in each cylinder
It sounds like maybe your hydraulic valve is only acting as a one way valve, not allowing fluid to flow back into the sump. It might need a rebuild but I'm not sure.
I have an 860 with a homemade loader. It has an open and close valve in the same spot your tractor has, the rest of the loader is identical to yours. My rear lift works perfect but my loader wont raise. If I jack up the loader then open the valve and close it and let down the jack the loader will hold. But as soon as I open the valve with no jack the loader falls. Any ideas thanks.
Is your loader supposed to operate with the same lever as your rear lift or does it have its own lever? On mine, with the valve under my seat pushed in, I can operate the rear lift. If I pull the valve knob out, it diverts the hydraulics to the loader cylinders. I use the same lever to raise and lower the rear lift and the loader but I can't move them both at the same time. It sounds like your valve only holds the loader pressure when closed (pushed in). It's like the hydraulic fluid isn't be diverted to your loader with enough pressure. I'm not sure what the problem is but If you rear lift works and can lift heavy implements then maybe the hydraulic valve under your seat, needs to be rebuilt. It could have some bad seals/o-rings.
@@Mikeattempts Thank you for your help. I ended up purchasing a selector valve like you have, and rebuilding the hydraulic pump, Hopefully it does the trick.
@@landanwarren5394 That'll probably resolve your issues, let me know how it goes.
how do you take the engine cover off of this tractor with loader appreciate for your hlep
There is enough room on both sides to access the engine. You can also remove the the hood and grill, you just have to lift the pieces up and over the loader frame.
How do u bleed the air out of single acting cylinders
@@guypatts494 From what I understand, under pressure, any air in the cylinder forms tiny bubbles in the hydraulic fluid and is returned to the sump where it can escape. So, that's the long way to say they bleed themselves. :)
Did you build this loader?
Nope, this was my grandfather's tractor and it had the loader when I got it. There is a metal label riveted on but I'm unable to tell who the manufacturer was.
Great videos Mike - I just got this same tractor (1956 800 or 850/860?) and the loader also looks identical. We've owned a 1949 8n for years and it was tough to steer but nowhere near as tough as this 800 - what's your opinion, do you get used to how tough it is to maneuver? My wife enjoys time on her 8n but we're selling it and I don't think she'll be able steer this new one. I found what appears to be a great company (www.jacksonpowersteering.com) who make a hydraulic PS unit for these old tractors and I'm pretty sure I'm going to order one. Thoughts?
This is the only tractor I've ever operated so I don't have anything to compare it to, in terms of steering. I've heard of people adding power steering to these older Ford tractors but I haven't looked into it myself. You can adjust the front and rear tire widths which might result in slightly easier steering but I'm not sure. Let me know what solution you come up with for your tractor. Thanks for watching!
Take the bucket off the front and see how it steers. It's not a whole lot heavier than an 8N without a loader, but just dropping the bucket is a lot of the front weight. You can also have something heavy on the back to take weight off the front. My tiller is enough to make it too light and need front ballast. Back blade might be about right.
If you already have the PS unit and installed it I would love to hear how it went. I have a new-to-me 860 and 8N. Selling the 8N and want to get the 860 running like new.
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