Great video. One observation regarding setting the blower chain tension. For years I thought that the gear or shaft had been bent causing the chain tension to be different at different points of the rotation. Turns out it wasn't that at all. A section of the chain had been stretched when the auger was jammed on something. Just thought I would mention it. New chain, no more problem.
I really like that Tractor! I remember when you first got it thinking "Wow- Reverse and Brake lights!" I like the size and versatility of this model. Thanks for sharing!!!!
Very well done, sir. I have the 739 with the front blade. We don’t get enough snow here in Maryland to justify the blower, but it sure looks like a beast!
Awesome little tractor and ultimate snow blowing machine, but what amazes me is that at the cost of a new car for this set up, they do not even have a remote chute control!!! What in the actual hell!!! You can get an aftermarket electronic chute actuator for about $100 to add on to these blowers, but JD should have supplied this , let alone the traditional style manual cable to adjust the chute height as comes on just about every other blower. I cannot imagine having to stop, get off the machine and walk up in front of it every time you want to adjust it. It's like buying a current model year car with roll down windows!
I had a x500 John Deere and the snowblower with that machine had a plastic chute, but you could control the chute angle from the operator station. I am not sure how John Deere missed this, everything else seems so well thought out.
@@stuntcardriver I did this Deflector Modification. But didn't bother with the chute rotation mod though. I used the 12 volt power switch location for the DPDT switch I put in its place to control the deflector up and down. This is the way it should have came from John Deere. (I never used the 12 volt source housed on RR fender anyway.) ua-cam.com/video/tE819PnpUjE/v-deo.html&t
Don’t forget to use the free floating position for the hydraulic lift. It prevents you from having the blower to high or going negative and lifting your front wheels in the air. I have the 54” blade and didn’t find the free float position until the end of my first snow plowing, makes a huge difference. The weights are 42lbs each and the rear holds up to 6 of them.
Looks like a nice rig. Better than my rear mounted one where I have to twist around and go in reverse. Biggest problem I have is wheels slipping on icy surface. Chains would help, but they're a little pricey.
Good job. You should plug the colored plastic caps together when done hooking up hydraulics, to keep the dirt out of the caps. Also, I did not see you test the chute rotation after blower install. Plus this is a good time to check the skid heights (a 1/16 inch or so) above the blade edge, and make sure the blade mounting bolts (the nuts) are not about worn out from dragging on cement. (I blow snow commercially with my JD garden tractor, the diesel model) and have to check these things many times a season here in MN. I do 35 residential customers every snow fall of 1.5 inches or more.
what guy wouldn't like a lawnmower with 4x4 and with hydraulic . i really like John Deere X758 only cuz it have a 3-cylinder diesel engine over being a V twin gas motor
Also. The dealership told me they have a 738 & 54in blade they use to clear their parking lot, and they don’t use weights on the rear. I’m betting on saving myself about 400 bucks by trusting my 4X4 and fat butt in the saddle. Did someone tell you that you had to have weights. I’d be interested to see how the blower works without any weight.
I had the weights from previous machines x320 and then a x500. Both of these I used 6 weights on the rear and still had traction issues snow blowing the driveway.
It looks to me that you disconnected the safety features on the tractor. You should not have been able to get off the seat without setting the parking brake as well as engage the PTO. While it may be convenient , it's not a good idea to do this and a great way to invite a disaster.
more of a disaster keeping connected, Maybe look backward when in reverse and the seat if you hit a bump it will kill the engine. because of one careless act and liability complaint they made it a pain in the rear to operate. If you cannot conduct safety protocol on your own, should not be driving and the wear and tear . Best way is just be careful as you dont need the tractor to tell you to be safe
Best video for this on the entire internet. Thanks for taking the time to make this for us and your clear explanations.
Great video. One observation regarding setting the blower chain tension. For years I thought that the gear or shaft had been bent causing the chain tension to be different at different points of the rotation. Turns out it wasn't that at all. A section of the chain had been stretched when the auger was jammed on something. Just thought I would mention it. New chain, no more problem.
I really like that Tractor! I remember when you first got it thinking "Wow- Reverse and Brake lights!" I like the size and versatility of this model. Thanks for sharing!!!!
The back up lights are nice when blowing snow at night. I am sure the newer models have leds.
Great video - thanks for taking the time to do this and show other X738 owners the insider view!
Very well done, sir. I have the 739 with the front blade. We don’t get enough snow here in Maryland to justify the blower, but it sure looks like a beast!
Awesome little tractor and ultimate snow blowing machine, but what amazes me is that at the cost of a new car for this set up, they do not even have a remote chute control!!! What in the actual hell!!!
You can get an aftermarket electronic chute actuator for about $100 to add on to these blowers, but JD should have supplied this , let alone the traditional style manual cable to adjust the chute height as comes on just about every other blower. I cannot imagine having to stop, get off the machine and walk up in front of it every time you want to adjust it. It's like buying a current model year car with roll down windows!
I had a x500 John Deere and the snowblower with that machine had a plastic chute, but you could control the chute angle from the operator station. I am not sure how John Deere missed this, everything else seems so well thought out.
@@stuntcardriver I did this Deflector Modification. But didn't bother with the chute rotation mod though. I used the 12 volt power switch location for the DPDT switch I put in its place to control the deflector up and down. This is the way it should have came from John Deere. (I never used the 12 volt source housed on RR fender anyway.) ua-cam.com/video/tE819PnpUjE/v-deo.html&t
Don’t forget to use the free floating position for the hydraulic lift. It prevents you from having the blower to high or going negative and lifting your front wheels in the air. I have the 54” blade and didn’t find the free float position until the end of my first snow plowing, makes a huge difference. The weights are 42lbs each and the rear holds up to 6 of them.
How do you do that
@@loganliddiard3414 You push the lever that lowers the snow blower all the way.
Looks like a nice rig. Better than my rear mounted one where I have to twist around and go in reverse. Biggest problem I have is wheels slipping on icy surface. Chains would help, but they're a little pricey.
Before this machine I had an x500 with locking rear differential. It worked well, but the first time I got stuck I decided I needed 4wd.
@@stuntcardriver the 738 is only 3 wheel drive until the Rear Diff is locked.
Good job. You should plug the colored plastic caps together when done hooking up hydraulics, to keep the dirt out of the caps. Also, I did not see you test the chute rotation after blower install. Plus this is a good time to check the skid heights (a 1/16 inch or so) above the blade edge, and make sure the blade mounting bolts (the nuts) are not about worn out from dragging on cement. (I blow snow commercially with my JD garden tractor, the diesel model) and have to check these things many times a season here in MN. I do 35 residential customers every snow fall of 1.5 inches or more.
I have a two small driveways, but both have inclines so the 4x4 is a must.
what guy wouldn't like a lawnmower with 4x4 and with hydraulic . i really like John Deere X758 only cuz it have a 3-cylinder diesel engine over being a V twin gas motor
Wish I could put a front blower on my 3038e.
Don’t forget to grease the U joint on the driveshaft that runs from the engine to the hydrostatic trans. Might as well do the PTO shaft as well.
can you make a video for the removal process? is there anything different to it when you do it in reverse? thanks
Also. The dealership told me they have a 738 & 54in blade they use to clear their parking lot, and they don’t use weights on the rear. I’m betting on saving myself about 400 bucks by trusting my 4X4 and fat butt in the saddle. Did someone tell you that you had to have weights. I’d be interested to see how the blower works without any weight.
I had the weights from previous machines x320 and then a x500. Both of these I used 6 weights on the rear and still had traction issues snow blowing the driveway.
how much weight do you have on the back?
250lbs or so. Not sure if the JD weights are 40 or 42 lbs.
thinking of buying this model, is that a 2 stage or single blower/
.
2 stage
Looks like it would be easier to just shovel it by hand... :)
less expensive, that's for sure.
Did u grease yr driveshafts after you put the blower on ?
Yes.
@@stuntcardriver lol i figured you did, i grew up on a dairy farm, my dad taught me when i was 5 yrs old how important lubing equipment was 👍
@@toddjacobs5660 It's only important if you want it to last.
@@stuntcardriver you and i know better 😊
It looks to me that you disconnected the safety features on the tractor. You should not have been able to get off the seat without setting the parking brake as well as engage the PTO. While it may be convenient , it's not a good idea to do this and a great way to invite a disaster.
more of a disaster keeping connected, Maybe look backward when in reverse and the seat if you hit a bump it will kill the engine. because of one careless act and liability complaint they made it a pain in the rear to operate. If you cannot conduct safety protocol on your own, should not be driving and the wear and tear . Best way is just be careful as you dont need the tractor to tell you to be safe