I recently changed my titan track saw blade to a trend pro. Night and day difference in cuts but for a tenner and after watching this video, I couldn't imagine the trend being 3 times better for the extra cost 👍
Pete.. I bought the cordless Lidl saw recently & put a slightly smaller diameter 48 tooth Trend blade on it & it was a revelation. Not only did it cut cleaner... the saw was under less load with the smaller blade so the battery lasted longer. Bear in mind that I was cutting (a LOT) of 18mm ply so the slight loss of cutting depth was of no consequence. Good little vid, man...🤗 Always interesting to see blade cutting differences !! 🧐 😎👍☘
I changed the stock blade on my Workzone tracksaw to an Irwin one and the difference was huge. Another big improvement was when you suggested changing the splinter guard to a slightly thicker rubber and the quality of cut was improved even further 😀
I have been using the Freud blades for my festool T55 and Mikita XPS01PTJ track saws. For me they have been working way better than any other blades I have used.
Many thanks. I also did a review cutting 18mm exterior ply and found that the stock plane produced a fantastic cut. That said that looks like a good additional blade.
As you say, for the money, you just can't complain. I swapped my Titan blade for a 16 tooth Makita narrow kerf blade (supposedly works like a 32 tooth blade, go figure) that was delivered for £12 from FFX, and not only does it now go though wood like a knife through butter but if you make a scoring cut first then you get a very good cut indeed. Changing the blade seems to be a no-brainer upgrade.
Yes, the skinny Makita blade is a thing of wonder. I just couldn't believe how effortlessly it went through 18mm plywood. I had to check that it wasn't just a scribe cut. And that on batteries!
Thanks Peter. You tipped me the wink on that last Thursday and o acted on your suggestion. Absolutely night and day regarding finished cut ! Never actually installed original blade as didn’t want to compromise the splinter guard, but will use the supplied blade for other jobs not using the guide rail. Thanks for your advice and your superbly informative and inspiring channel. Cheers, David.
Couldn't agree more! My original Makita blade had, after cutting a shed load of paint grade 12mm ply for stringers, seen better days. So, when I took ona kitchen project, I decided to invest in a new one. I had a wee shifty around at the options, and thought I'd give the Triton 60tpi a go. Well, absolutely fabulous finish on the worktops and the splashbacks. And that goes for both sides of the cut. I have since then purchased a few spares, including the 48tpi Triton. The blades are excellent quality and seem to last every bit as long as the Makita equivalents. The fact that they can be had for a tenner is just a bonus. Don't know if I've mentioned it before, but on the kitchen job I went out and bought the Triton dust bag which fits the Makita corded tracksaw perfectly and does a stellar job of collecting most of the dust. At only £14.99 it's a good bit cheaper than the Mafell, coming in at an eye-watering £49.99😬. Not as good as a shop vac, but so mu h easier to lug around and set up, if you're only planning o a couple of scribe cuts and the rain sets in. Pity it doesn't fit my newly acquired cordless Makita. Will
I have parkside plunge saw for two years. I also changed the blade for CMT Orange tool, 48 tooth, dedicated to laminate cutting. Cut are very clean without breakouts. Cheap tool doesn't mean nad quality
I have a similar 48 tooth blade specifically because it produces a better finish on plywood, even the garbage stuff I have. That original blade looks like the one I use to cut regular timber to length, a task for which it is eminently suitable.
I bought a Titan on offer for £70 the other day based on your Titan vs Festool video so thanks for that Peter. I hadn't used it yet so I think I'll pick up an upgrade blade before cutting in the splinter guards. Really glad I saw this video and the comments before using it. Thanks again, and a really great channel :)
Thanks very much for your video’s peter picked up the track saw on Thursday for the for the bargain price thanks to your review and ordered my self the evolution st2800 rail set. And now ordered this bargain blade. Going to try it all out at weekend. 👌
Just checked and the Triton blade fits my titan track saw and just a heads up as you've previously mentioned the titan is the best budget track saw screwfix have it in sale at £90. Just a quick one for those that didn't manage to get the aldi of lidl saw
Great video, going to upgrade my Lidl Tracksaw with either the Triton TTS48TCG or the Trend CSB/pt16548, guess the difference isn't that much. You mention the Triton is capable of cutting laminate, does that mean it will dull less quickly (I read that using any regular blade on laminate will dull the blade quickly). Anyhow, great video, learning a lot!
Here's an interesting bit of info. If you have a good blade sharpening service near you, it is usually good to even have them sharpen a brand new blade! Just something I have learned, not a plug for sharpening services :)
Thanks for doing these videos on the Lidl Parkside saw. I picked one up last week based on your testing and I've been pleasantly surprised with it. I had horrific tear out on the waste side of the blade when I was cutting 12mm ply. Some masking tape helped a little to prevent it tearing out too much with the standard 24 tooth saw. Would a 60 tooth blade ever be worthwhile for DIY projects? And have you tried out any Saxton blades before? Thanks
That's interesting - I had a better waste-side cut in 12mm ply with the stock blade, than on the splinterguard side. You have to be a little careful when going up to 60 tooth blades IME; with 48t you can just about use them for a rip cut, as long as you take it steady, but I'd think twice about it with a 60t blade. For regular cuts in plywood and MDF I'm sure it'd be fine, but bear in mind I haven't personally used one in the parkside saw. Haven't tried Saxton circular saw blades, but the Saxrton multi-tool blades are good. 👍
Can you please tell me, if this Lidl track saw cuts in the same line in 90 degree as in 45 degree? So the splinter guard gives exact projection where the cut will be in both 90 and angled cuts? Thank you for your videos, its a great help!!!
My cheapo track saw (excel) same as Parkside silver line draper etc etc came with a 3mm kerf 24t rip cutting blade, it came in handy ripping down some larch fencing planks but not that good on tulipwood ply 😂
Usually all blades right out of the package make crisp cuts. It's after a couple of weeks of intensive use that you start noticing the difference when the carbide of the cheapo blades is gone.
I'm glad I saw this before I cut the splinter guard on my new parkside tracks. Will wait till it arrives and calibrate them with new blade. Thanks for the advice Peter ^^
@@10MinuteWorkshop cancelled order and went for a trend craft pro blade instead like one of your viewers commented. Only £13.50 and has good reviews. On par with festool blades apparently! 🤞
Hey Peter, I just bought the Lidl saw on your recommendation. I was fitting some laminate flooring at the weekend and thought this would be a good time to try it out, but found it was really tough going through roughly 15mm material with a lot of burning and smoke. I then trimmed a couple of softwood doors down by about 10mm off the height and again it was slow progress and the saw made hard work of it. I have an old jobsite table saw with a cast iron top that went through the laminate floor boards like butter. I have a Triton blade on order so will try that, but do you think this is likely to be user error or a problem with the saw? Have you experienced anything like this? If the blade doesn't fix it I'll have to try and get a replacement. I know it's 'only' 1200W but it's a thin kerf blade which should help with that.
Hiya. No, I haven't had anything like that - the stock blade is decent, not great, but decent. I've heard of a few quality control issues with this years saw, though, so if the blade swap doesn't fix it then chuck it back to them. Was this fresh out of the box, burning like this? I did have one guy who changed the blade for a better one straight away and had all kinds of problems like the ones you experienced - turns out he had the blade on backwards... 😬 Might be worth checking?? 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thought I'd send a quick reply in case you were interested. I got my Triton blade yesterday and the Evolution 1400x2 rails and set about testing it. When I took the old blade off it had some kind of residue on the teeth which I assume was from cutting the laminate flooring. I'm guessing that this was at least partly to blame for the poor performance, but a quick test cut on some 40mm oak worktop was fine and went through in two passes fairly comfortably with the Triton blade. Glad I don't have to return it! I might clean off the bundled blade and give it another go at some point as it would be useful to have a spare.
What a ripper score, a tenna for a quality blade. 👌 That is weird, with the stock blade having a cleaner cut on the waste side! Bonus that the new Triton doesn't do that though... 👍
Amazon are quoting a 1 month delivery on the Triton blade,, but I’ll not be getting it as an upgrade on the 2021 Parkside saw as it’s narrower than the Irving knife
Hi Peter - I had been on the lookout for a cheap track saw for a while and on the strength of the quick video you posted the other day, I took the plunge (saw) last Thursday and purchased the Lidl saw. I have previously used a standard circular saw and separate straight edge for cutting sheet material for DIY projects which was OK but not idea. Very pleased with the cut quality of the Lidl saw in MDF (not tried any other materials yet). Perfectly serviceable for my needs. One minor point I noted with my Lidl saw was that there was a very small amount of lateral play in the plunge hinge - margin and barely noticeable but there none-the-less. Does your Lidl saw have this too or did I just get unlucky with a less than tight tolerance unit? It only really causes a problem if I apply a lateral force to the saw handle when cutting (like if I end up in a slightly awkward angle or am reaching over to finish a cut). Something that I can work around no problem, I just make sure I keep even pressure and force on the saw, but might perhaps a noticeable indication of the low price point. Edited to add - thanks for the quality content as usual. Just recently completed a little cabinet project for my bathroom turning a pedestal sink into a cabinet mounted sink. 18mm moisture resistant MDF cupboard with a solid oak top cut around the existing sink (removed the pedestal). I sprayed it with white eggshell paint using a cheap HVLP spray gun. All inspired by your videos. Thank you!
Thanks Lewis! No, can’t say I’ve noticed any movement in the handle, though I did hear from another subscriber in the comments that theirs had enough play to affect the cut, although it sounded like they resolved it in the end. Glad it’s working out for you, anyway - and the bathroom cabinet sounds like the perfect project! 👍👍
Good video as ever Peter, The Triton blades do well initally but i have found they dont hold the sharness all that long ( I have the triton track setup) I changed the blades for frued blades work excerlently ut expensive, a quick search of amazon I found trend craft pro 48 tooth blades for £14:25 each thats quite a bargin also. hope this helps other viewers !
Thanks Graham! I’ve found that with quite a few third-party blade manufacturers tbh, including freud, but that’s a great price for a red blade, thanks!. 👍👍
Parkside Tool's great for DIY'ers like myself got loads 3 year warranty as well, BUT I would not like to say how they would stand up to everyday workings like yourself Peter , have a nice day !!!.
Hi. The Triton blade mentioned is 165mm, but you say its compatible with Aldi saws which is the same as the Scheppach PL55.. The Scheppach PL55 is the one I have, but the blade in that is 160mm. So the question is, do 165mm blades fit in the Scheppach PL55? (The Aldi one, on their site, looking at photos and zooming in shows it comes with a 160 blade as standard and looks identical to Scheppach PL55. So if the Aldi one takes 165 assume the Scheppach will. )
No, I don’t mention Aldi saws in this video at all. The Triton blade is compatible with the Lidl Parkside saw, which takes a 165mm blade. The Aldi workzone saw needs a 160mm, as stated in the tracksaw workshop series.
Mentioning the 2.6mm thickness of the Parkside tool versus the more common 2.2mm in the original video is very useful. Most diyers I guess would not think of that until having unpacked the tool. Any issues that a diyer might experience when using a thinner vs. a thicker blade? e.g. longevity, ease of use, power demand (in the case of a cordless tool) etc.? Interesting decorative pattern developing on the sacrificial board btw. I wonder where that might look nice! lol
I don't know where to ask this, but how long does an ATB blade last in MDF until it needs resharpening? 10m?100m? I'm an amateur and have absolutely no clue when to get my blade sharpened.
Personally, I’d say more like thousands of metres. And you’ll know when the blade needs sharpening - you’ll start to scorch the edges, and the saw will labour as your cutting longer rips. 👍
Hi Peter, thanks for this video, very helpful now that I still have a fresh splinter guard :)! Your introduction series to plunge saws is super useful, thanks for making them. Two questions I hope you can help answer. First, I was wondering if the Triton blade fits on the new 2021 Lidl Plungesaw as the riving knife seems quite thick? Also, I read that the Triton blade dulls quickly, any experience with this being the case? Thanks in advance :)!
Hi Martin. I don’t know I’m afraid - haven’t had a Triton blade for a little while as I gave the last one away to a Patreon supporter who was having problems with his stock blade. Certainly not aware of any issues with the blades dulling quickly though. 🤷♂️👍
Great and timely video. Following your precious one, I’ve been out and bought one of these saws. Would you recommend upgrading the blade before first use and then cutting the splinter guard? Many thanks for such a good video.
Thanks! And yes, I would - the difference in the blade kerf is only 0.2mm either side, but why not get it right from the start - especially if the new blade is likely to be the most used (and it will be) 👍👍
What sort of lifespan would you normally expect from a saw blade? After watching these videos I bought the Parkside saw and triton blade and all was well for a few months. It was fine for thin (5.5mm) ply but struggled a bit on mdf. Eventually I gave up on it and consigned it to a shelf. After rewatching the tracksaw series I took it out again determined to ‘master the track saw’ and struggled again with it. Changed back to the original blade and it’s awesome. In a matter of months and with no more than 50 cuts under its belt the triton blade is blunt. Is this usual wear for a track saw blade?
Sorry about off topic, I am looking to get some bar clamps which brand do you recommend? And which to stay away from? I purchased some from Lidl and they broke within a day of light use. I want to spend a bit not over the top as I am just getting into making things. Thanks keep up the good work Neil
@@neil200830 For 0ne-handed clamps then I find the Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs hard to beat. Not cheap, mind. Otherwise I have a few of the Irwin type ones and they work well. 👍
Peter Millard thank you for your advice, I mite have a look at the Irwin clamps as I have a tool station and wicks where I live and these shops stock them. Keep up the good videos
Thanks Andrew! Up to a point, yes, but bear in mind that a 48-tooth blade will probably still be OK for the occasional rip cut in solid timber, but something like a 60-tooth blade will likely bog down. But yes, as a general rule the higher the tooth count the finer the cut. 👍👍
i've just ordered a second hand titan! bought for a specific project, I'm going to upgrade straight away to the finest cut blade possible (cutting 9mm birch ply only). Seen some blades with 80 teeth. Any downsides to that many teeth?
Hi Kevin; I’ve just bought another ten of these - Heavy duty spring clamps - amzn.to/2Rw0b5u. They’re great, much better than the usual ‘market stall’ type of clip. 👍👍
Haven’t used it, but if the 48T is anything to go by it should be excellent. All I’ll say is that a 48T blade can be pushed into being an all-rounder, I’d expect a 60T to be just for crosscuts. 👍👍
Does the Lidl saw work with a blade with 30mm inner bore and 20-30mm adapter ring? Lidl sells that kind of blades and I don't know if they are suitable.
Thank you, Peter. I found an older video about the Lidl track saw (the A1 revision) from a guy who reviews Lidl products (bricovideo). He says blades with 30mm inner bore and 20-30mm adapter ring are not suitable. I don't know why, but if true it could be about the outer diameter of the clamping screw and washer for blade. Next week the saw will show in stores near me and I hope to grab one :)
Hi Peter, any idea if that triton blade will cut composite plastic cladding, the cladding is about 6/ to 8 mm in its thinnest part and about 18 in its thickest part of profile? Any recommendation greatly appreciated, cheers Steve
Interesting that you managed to trim up that rail in one go? I thought the best way was to join them, cut through half of each, swap them and then finish the cut?
@@diyengineer811 You need to be able to hold the saw stead on the rail with the majority of the base-plate hanging off the back of the rail, whilst plunging and cutting. Not really for novices 👍
Hi Peter, it took some looking but I found your link to the 48 tooth blade and have ordered one. I seem to remember you ordered some replacement rubber blade guards but I could not find that, so if you could point me in the right direction I would be grateful.
I've become annoyed with several things on the Aldi Workzone saw I purchased last year that has made me decide to cut my losses and upgrade to a Makita SP6000. The straw that broke the camel's back so to speak was noticing that the sole of the saw was not flat and rocked slightly from corner to corner. I suppose I could send the saw back, but I've modified the tracks with 3mm rubber strip to stop them rocking and adjusted the set screws in the base to get the blade to cut square(r). Other issues with the saw are the ridiculously strong return spring you have to push against to plunge the blade down; better make sure those rails are well coated with silicone or it will bind! The mitre guage is inaccurate. The depth stop is a pain to adjust. If a plunge cut facility and superior dust collection is not required then possibly a better investment would be a decent quality circular saw, guide rail adapter and guide rail(s) that are compatible with quality plunge saws. If at a later date the unique features of a plunge saw become important you can spend your hard earned cash on a quality engineered product rather than the lottery of cheap Chinese tools that always leave you feeling slightly annoyed after using them!
I did a detailed review of the Aldi Workzone saw at the end of the tracksaw workshop series in January, and couldn’t recommend it - way too many issues to sort out before you get a functioning saw. The Parkside and the Titan OTOH are excellent for the money, and deliver solid performance out of the box, so not all cheap Chinese saws are the same. 👍👍
Yes, usually. The Aldi Workzone (scheppach) splinter-guards are unusually thin, but they can all be changed - it's a consumable, on a tracksaw. I generally recommend the Makita splinterguard as it's good value. See the video description for a link. 👍
if a squirt of WD40, Plus Gas, or penetrating oil doesn't work then **carefully** warming it up with a hot air gun can help; never had one that was stuck that badly though.
Peter, I have a parkside plunge saw. Have you noticed any side to side movement of the handle so you're not guaranteed a perfectly square edge or is it just my saw which moves?
So you mean the handle, or the whole saw? Have you snugged your saw onto the rail with the cam adjusters? If not, you might want to work your way through my Tracksaw Workshop series as I take you through the process of taking a fresh out of the box saw and setting it up ready to use in anger. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop the handle, which in turn is connected to the blade. The cam adjusters are set correctly. Let's try again. If you are making a cut, if you put pressure on the handle to the left as you are pushing the saw you will get one angle of cut. If you push the handle to the right, while making sure the sole is in contact with the guide rail, and pushing the saw through the wood, you get a different angle of cut? Must just be my saw which is 'loose'. This is more noticeable if you have to stop part way through, because of trapped wire or extraction hose, and then start the cut again. A noticeable step can be seen. I'll re watch your video just in case I've missed something.
@@royalflush1964 Hi Damion. Thanks for explaining. No, I don't have anything like that with mine, I'm sorry. If it's bad or getting worse, your saw's probably still under warranty, so it might be worth a phone call?? Let me know how you get on 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, fixed it, well, considerably improved it. The problem is with the hinge shaft. Any slight movement here is amplified at the top of the blade, mine was a good 2mm. So I stripped the saw down and inserted a shim made from some tin foil. The blade side to side movement is down to about ½mm now. Reassembled and good to go. Don't know how long it will last, we shall see.
hi peter was looking on amazon and was wondering would this 60 tooth blade give a even better cut ...Triton 372474 - 165mm Plunge Track Saw Circular Saw Blade 60T from amazon its a little of a tena £14.99 ..
Aw dear, a manual spindle-lock lever. On my first circular saw I had to shove a screwdriver through a hole in the blade... or was that the one where you couldn't lock the blade at all, you just 'hung' a ring spanner on the nut and hit the other end with a hammer? "Do not start the saw without removing the screwdriver...". Ah, those were the days. ;-)
I wondered that too. Peter, what’s the cut like with the Triton blade and the rail where you trimmed the splinter guard with the original 2.6mm kerf blade? Didn’t look like the splinter guard was doing much so perhaps little difference? With my Parkside rails the splinter guard is convex profile and doesn’t appear to touch the workpiece where the blade is cutting
You’re right, there’s not much in it, and I mentioned it in the video because if I didn’t then a bunch of people would complain about it, lol! I certainly don’t work to 0.2mm tolerances and I don’t know anyone in the business does, but it wouldn’t stop showing me folks having a whinge and a moan! 👍👍
They're a slighty oddball size, aren't they? I think Key Blades and fixings do them - yep: amzn.to/2Zordzz. I haven't used that specific one, but I had their 160mm Festool compatible one for a test in the Tracksaw Workshop series and it did very well.
No, any blade should cut the splinter-guard cleanly - it’s just a rubber strip, so if it can’t cut that then it won’t do a decent job of the wood underneath! 👍
A few minutes after you posted your video there were 6 blades in stock at Amazon. Now there are none. I bet all of the sales were due to this video. You should get comission. Lol
01:50 It was mentioned in a review by "The restoration couple" that the track splinter guard strip was the wrong shape and width - a clear quality control failure. In fact he went completely ape shit about it which was very amusing to watch. Perhaps that same QC issue is also present this sample?
Perfect ... but not quite, he laments. One of your most demanding and completely unreasonable viewers would like to see blade tested on laminate or MFC. MDF is cuddly stuff. Would you need a sacrificial top-layer, masking tape, and pre-cut to meet wifey approval - not even a suspicion of break-out?
It’s just not something I use I’m afraid, so I’d have to buy some in specially. I also did a conti-board test when I did the original Festool b cheap tool video and I had to look very, very hard to see any real difference between the stock Titan blade and the Festool one, so I settled on the Birch ply test as it’s something I’ll always have around, and because the relative splintering is easy to see. Triton sell this blade as a laminate blade, so I’d expect it to be good. 👍👍
Don't be fooled by the seller of the Triton blade who claims it will be sent within 5 days. I ordered two days ago and now I've just learned the item will be sent on the 2nd July! Funny how I didn't receive a message from the seller informing me of this.
Sorry to hear that; all items were in stock when the link was posted a week ago, but it's been a very popular item. The blade's available elsewhere on amazon, but at a higher price.
@@10MinuteWorkshop I am curious about this. Why would a thicker blade run any closer to the motor? It seems the extra thickness would be on the waste side. Unless the saw plate is the same thickness and the teeth are wider, then half the increase would be on both sides. Then it would have trimmed the strip back and made the first track useless for the original blade. There is much to know about saw blades. I am new to this world of track saws and have bought two Festool ones at tool auctions along with lots of track, all of which may need new splinter guards. Is changing the splinter guard strip a worth while investment?
Hi Barry. It's the teeth that are thicker, not the blade, and the teeth are, for obvious reasons, centred on the blade. A blade with thicker teeth makes a wider cut (kerf) so if you've trimmed back the splinter-guard with a wider kerf blade, there will be a discrepancy if you switch to a narrower-kerf blade. Re your splinter-guards, you can actually unpeel them, and re-stick them a little further out, which may help. But yes, the splinter-guards are a consumable and are meant to be replaced. HTH Peter
I bought this blade for my TS55. It’s excellent. Cuts 18mm Moisture MDF like butter 2202 Key Blades and Fixings 160mm... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FTW2RVV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
![Lidl Parkside or Screwfix MacAllister? [video 454]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ebm-EEXNZHE/mqdefault.jpg)
OK, so that was weird; this was scheduled to publish at noon, but didn't for some reason. Sorry about that - better late than never though, eh? 🤷♂️
How many teeth are on your large table saw blades?
Dear Peter, Quick simple and to the point, excellent many thanks.
@@thomasfholland Don't really use a table saw much, so I'd have to take a look and get back to you. 👍
Peter Millard That’s ok. I was just thinking about comparing the saw blades here in Sweden with the ones you have.
In fact so good I've just been down to Lidl to buy one and will order the Triton blade too before I cut the guard.
We love you, even more, when you review the cheap affordable gear...cheers!
Haha, thanks! 🤷♂️👍
Cheap affordable is fine for occasional use... most of the time. For pro use it often wears out too quickly.
I recently changed my titan track saw blade to a trend pro. Night and day difference in cuts but for a tenner and after watching this video, I couldn't imagine the trend being 3 times better for the extra cost 👍
Pete.. I bought the cordless Lidl saw recently & put a slightly smaller diameter 48 tooth Trend blade on it & it was a revelation.
Not only did it cut cleaner... the saw was under less load with the smaller blade so the battery lasted longer. Bear in mind that I was cutting (a LOT) of 18mm ply so the slight loss of cutting depth was of no consequence.
Good little vid, man...🤗
Always interesting to see blade cutting differences !! 🧐
😎👍☘
Nice! 👍
I changed the stock blade on my Workzone tracksaw to an Irwin one and the difference was huge. Another big improvement was when you suggested changing the splinter guard to a slightly thicker rubber and the quality of cut was improved even further 😀
Thanks Leo! Yes, the Workzone needs a bit of work to get it cutting well 👍👍
Great review on that blade. I like videos like this, that way i don't have to find out myself. Thank you for this.
Great review, so nice to see affordable stuff getting a genuine review. Thanks for posting.
Thanks! 👍👍
I have been using the Freud blades for my festool T55 and Mikita XPS01PTJ track saws. For me they have been working way better than any other blades I have used.
Many thanks. I also did a review cutting 18mm exterior ply and found that the stock plane produced a fantastic cut. That said that looks like a good additional blade.
Thanks Benedict! Yers, I saw your review - nice one! The stock blade is very good, but this 48T Triton blade is streets ahead. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Cheers. I'll try out that blade, though I have cut the splinter guard the full length. Is your link an affiliate link BTW?
As you say, for the money, you just can't complain. I swapped my Titan blade for a 16 tooth Makita narrow kerf blade (supposedly works like a 32 tooth blade, go figure) that was delivered for £12 from FFX, and not only does it now go though wood like a knife through butter but if you make a scoring cut first then you get a very good cut indeed. Changing the blade seems to be a no-brainer upgrade.
Yep, easiest, cheapest upgrade you’ll ever make to the majority of entry-level saws 👍👍
Yes, the skinny Makita blade is a thing of wonder. I just couldn't believe how effortlessly it went through 18mm plywood. I had to check that it wasn't just a scribe cut. And that on batteries!
Thanks Peter. You tipped me the wink on that last Thursday and o acted on your suggestion. Absolutely night and day regarding finished cut ! Never actually installed original blade as didn’t want to compromise the splinter guard, but will use the supplied blade for other jobs not using the guide rail.
Thanks for your advice and your superbly informative and inspiring channel.
Cheers, David.
Thanks David! It’s a cracking blade for the money. 👍👍
Couldn't agree more!
My original Makita blade had, after cutting a shed load of paint grade 12mm ply for stringers, seen better days.
So, when I took ona kitchen project, I decided to invest in a new one. I had a wee shifty around at the options, and thought I'd give the Triton 60tpi a go. Well, absolutely fabulous finish on the worktops and the splashbacks. And that goes for both sides of the cut. I have since then purchased a few spares, including the 48tpi Triton.
The blades are excellent quality and seem to last every bit as long as the Makita equivalents. The fact that they can be had for a tenner is just a bonus.
Don't know if I've mentioned it before, but on the kitchen job I went out and bought the Triton dust bag which fits the Makita corded tracksaw perfectly and does a stellar job of collecting most of the dust. At only £14.99 it's a good bit cheaper than the Mafell, coming in at an eye-watering £49.99😬. Not as good as a shop vac, but so mu h easier to lug around and set up, if you're only planning o a couple of scribe cuts and the rain sets in.
Pity it doesn't fit my newly acquired cordless Makita.
Will
Thanks! Good tip on the Triton bag - hadn’t thought of that tbh!👍👍
I have parkside plunge saw for two years. I also changed the blade for CMT Orange tool, 48 tooth, dedicated to laminate cutting. Cut are very clean without breakouts. Cheap tool doesn't mean nad quality
👍👍
I've got a Trend 48t blade I use in mine when I want a super fine cut and it works really well.
Thanks Peter - you are churning out some real cracking vids.😀👍
Thank you! 👍👍
I have a similar 48 tooth blade specifically because it produces a better finish on plywood, even the garbage stuff I have. That original blade looks like the one I use to cut regular timber to length, a task for which it is eminently suitable.
I bought a Titan on offer for £70 the other day based on your Titan vs Festool video so thanks for that Peter. I hadn't used it yet so I think I'll pick up an upgrade blade before cutting in the splinter guards. Really glad I saw this video and the comments before using it. Thanks again, and a really great channel :)
Thank you! Titan’s a great saw, but especially at £70! 👍👍
just ordered a blade for my cordless 165mm circular saw... will make a huge difference over stock one... thanks Peter
Cheers Kevin! 👍👍
Thanks for the info Peter you saved me a lot of money in saws and now the blade. 👍👍
Thanks very much for your video’s peter picked up the track saw on Thursday for the for the bargain price thanks to your review and ordered my self the evolution st2800 rail set. And now ordered this bargain blade. Going to try it all out at weekend. 👌
Excellent news David! Thanks for letting me know! 👍👍
I didn't realize that the Triton blades were the same size as Makitas. The stock Makita blade gives a great finish, but it's good to have options
Just checked and the Triton blade fits my titan track saw and just a heads up as you've previously mentioned the titan is the best budget track saw screwfix have it in sale at £90. Just a quick one for those that didn't manage to get the aldi of lidl saw
Great video, going to upgrade my Lidl Tracksaw with either the Triton TTS48TCG or the Trend CSB/pt16548, guess the difference isn't that much. You mention the Triton is capable of cutting laminate, does that mean it will dull less quickly (I read that using any regular blade on laminate will dull the blade quickly). Anyhow, great video, learning a lot!
Here's an interesting bit of info. If you have a good blade sharpening service near you, it is usually good to even have them sharpen a brand new blade! Just something I have learned, not a plug for sharpening services :)
Thanks for doing these videos on the Lidl Parkside saw. I picked one up last week based on your testing and I've been pleasantly surprised with it. I had horrific tear out on the waste side of the blade when I was cutting 12mm ply. Some masking tape helped a little to prevent it tearing out too much with the standard 24 tooth saw.
Would a 60 tooth blade ever be worthwhile for DIY projects?
And have you tried out any Saxton blades before?
Thanks
That's interesting - I had a better waste-side cut in 12mm ply with the stock blade, than on the splinterguard side. You have to be a little careful when going up to 60 tooth blades IME; with 48t you can just about use them for a rip cut, as long as you take it steady, but I'd think twice about it with a 60t blade. For regular cuts in plywood and MDF I'm sure it'd be fine, but bear in mind I haven't personally used one in the parkside saw. Haven't tried Saxton circular saw blades, but the Saxrton multi-tool blades are good. 👍
Glad I saw this before I used the thing for the first time. Blade change first then. Thanks for the info.
Pleasure 👍👍
Can you please tell me, if this Lidl track saw cuts in the same line in 90 degree as in 45 degree? So the splinter guard gives exact projection where the cut will be in both 90 and angled cuts? Thank you for your videos, its a great help!!!
My cheapo track saw (excel) same as Parkside silver line draper etc etc came with a 3mm kerf 24t rip cutting blade, it came in handy ripping down some larch fencing planks but not that good on tulipwood ply 😂
Hi Peter I use 165bosch laminate blade in my festool and it works fine .
Cool; must throw off the depth scale though?? 👍
Usually all blades right out of the package make crisp cuts. It's after a couple of weeks of intensive use that you start noticing the difference when the carbide of the cheapo blades is gone.
I'm glad I saw this before I cut the splinter guard on my new parkside tracks. Will wait till it arrives and calibrate them with new blade. Thanks for the advice Peter ^^
TBH the difference is probably marginal at best, but you may as well start with the right blade/splinterguard combo. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop cancelled order and went for a trend craft pro blade instead like one of your viewers commented. Only £13.50 and has good reviews. On par with festool blades apparently! 🤞
@@OldBillBailey Hmmm. I used a Trend Craft Pro in the Aldi saw and was a little underwhelmed tbh. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh well. I'll see how it goes. Maybe the aldi saw was duff!
@@OldBillBailey No doubt about that, lol! 😂
Very useful info. Very helpful.
Thanks Peter, informative and helpful as usual.
Thanks Malcolm! 👍
Thanks for the video Peter. I’ve just ordered a Triton blade. :-)
Good to hear! They’re great vale. 👍👍
Hey Peter, I just bought the Lidl saw on your recommendation. I was fitting some laminate flooring at the weekend and thought this would be a good time to try it out, but found it was really tough going through roughly 15mm material with a lot of burning and smoke. I then trimmed a couple of softwood doors down by about 10mm off the height and again it was slow progress and the saw made hard work of it. I have an old jobsite table saw with a cast iron top that went through the laminate floor boards like butter.
I have a Triton blade on order so will try that, but do you think this is likely to be user error or a problem with the saw? Have you experienced anything like this? If the blade doesn't fix it I'll have to try and get a replacement. I know it's 'only' 1200W but it's a thin kerf blade which should help with that.
Hiya. No, I haven't had anything like that - the stock blade is decent, not great, but decent. I've heard of a few quality control issues with this years saw, though, so if the blade swap doesn't fix it then chuck it back to them. Was this fresh out of the box, burning like this? I did have one guy who changed the blade for a better one straight away and had all kinds of problems like the ones you experienced - turns out he had the blade on backwards... 😬 Might be worth checking?? 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thought I'd send a quick reply in case you were interested. I got my Triton blade yesterday and the Evolution 1400x2 rails and set about testing it. When I took the old blade off it had some kind of residue on the teeth which I assume was from cutting the laminate flooring. I'm guessing that this was at least partly to blame for the poor performance, but a quick test cut on some 40mm oak worktop was fine and went through in two passes fairly comfortably with the Triton blade. Glad I don't have to return it! I might clean off the bundled blade and give it another go at some point as it would be useful to have a spare.
freakeystyley34 That sounds more like it! Thanks for letting me know! 👍👍
The Triton 48 is what I have in my Titan tracksaw, £9.99 at Screwfix
Am I correct in thinking, this Triton blade will fit the Titan track saw?
Yes, straight swap. 👍👍
What a ripper score, a tenna for a quality blade. 👌
That is weird, with the stock blade having a cleaner cut on the waste side!
Bonus that the new Triton doesn't do that though... 👍
Cheers Bill! Yes, weird about that waste-side cut, but result with the ten-pound Triton 👍
Amazon are quoting a 1 month delivery on the Triton blade,, but I’ll not be getting it as an upgrade on the 2021 Parkside saw as it’s narrower than the Irving knife
Hi Peter - I had been on the lookout for a cheap track saw for a while and on the strength of the quick video you posted the other day, I took the plunge (saw) last Thursday and purchased the Lidl saw. I have previously used a standard circular saw and separate straight edge for cutting sheet material for DIY projects which was OK but not idea. Very pleased with the cut quality of the Lidl saw in MDF (not tried any other materials yet). Perfectly serviceable for my needs. One minor point I noted with my Lidl saw was that there was a very small amount of lateral play in the plunge hinge - margin and barely noticeable but there none-the-less. Does your Lidl saw have this too or did I just get unlucky with a less than tight tolerance unit? It only really causes a problem if I apply a lateral force to the saw handle when cutting (like if I end up in a slightly awkward angle or am reaching over to finish a cut). Something that I can work around no problem, I just make sure I keep even pressure and force on the saw, but might perhaps a noticeable indication of the low price point.
Edited to add - thanks for the quality content as usual. Just recently completed a little cabinet project for my bathroom turning a pedestal sink into a cabinet mounted sink. 18mm moisture resistant MDF cupboard with a solid oak top cut around the existing sink (removed the pedestal). I sprayed it with white eggshell paint using a cheap HVLP spray gun. All inspired by your videos. Thank you!
Thanks Lewis! No, can’t say I’ve noticed any movement in the handle, though I did hear from another subscriber in the comments that theirs had enough play to affect the cut, although it sounded like they resolved it in the end. Glad it’s working out for you, anyway - and the bathroom cabinet sounds like the perfect project! 👍👍
Good video as ever Peter, The Triton blades do well initally but i have found they dont hold the sharness all that long ( I have the triton track setup) I changed the blades for frued blades work excerlently ut expensive, a quick search of amazon I found trend craft pro 48 tooth blades for £14:25 each thats quite a bargin also. hope this helps other viewers !
Thanks Graham! I’ve found that with quite a few third-party blade manufacturers tbh, including freud, but that’s a great price for a red blade, thanks!. 👍👍
Parkside Tool's great for DIY'ers like myself got loads 3 year warranty as well, BUT I would not like to say how they would stand up to everyday workings like yourself Peter , have a nice day !!!.
Thanks Brian. Yes, they’re entry-level saws, but 3 year warranty is pretty good at this level. 👍
Hi. The Triton blade mentioned is 165mm, but you say its compatible with Aldi saws which is the same as the Scheppach PL55.. The Scheppach PL55 is the one I have, but the blade in that is 160mm. So the question is, do 165mm blades fit in the Scheppach PL55? (The Aldi one, on their site, looking at photos and zooming in shows it comes with a 160 blade as standard and looks identical to Scheppach PL55. So if the Aldi one takes 165 assume the Scheppach will. )
No, I don’t mention Aldi saws in this video at all. The Triton blade is compatible with the Lidl Parkside saw, which takes a 165mm blade. The Aldi workzone saw needs a 160mm, as stated in the tracksaw workshop series.
Is there a difference in plunge saw blades and circular saw blades or are they interchangeable?
Plunge saw blades tend to have a slightly thinner kerf at ~2.2mm or less. 👍👍
Mentioning the 2.6mm thickness of the Parkside tool versus the more common 2.2mm in the original video is very useful. Most diyers I guess would not think of that until having unpacked the tool. Any issues that a diyer might experience when using a thinner vs. a thicker blade? e.g. longevity, ease of use, power demand (in the case of a cordless tool) etc.?
Interesting decorative pattern developing on the sacrificial board btw. I wonder where that might look nice! lol
No, no issues that I’ve found with the thicker blade. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Great! It's good to know that thanks!
I don't know where to ask this, but how long does an ATB blade last in MDF until it needs resharpening? 10m?100m? I'm an amateur and have absolutely no clue when to get my blade sharpened.
Personally, I’d say more like thousands of metres. And you’ll know when the blade needs sharpening - you’ll start to scorch the edges, and the saw will labour as your cutting longer rips. 👍
Hi Peter, thanks for this video, very helpful now that I still have a fresh splinter guard :)! Your introduction series to plunge saws is super useful, thanks for making them. Two questions I hope you can help answer. First, I was wondering if the Triton blade fits on the new 2021 Lidl Plungesaw as the riving knife seems quite thick? Also, I read that the Triton blade dulls quickly, any experience with this being the case? Thanks in advance :)!
Hi Martin. I don’t know I’m afraid - haven’t had a Triton blade for a little while as I gave the last one away to a Patreon supporter who was having problems with his stock blade. Certainly not aware of any issues with the blades dulling quickly though. 🤷♂️👍
Hi Pete, did you notice any difference in sound level between the blades? I see the replacement blade has those anti-ringing slots cut in it.
Nope, none whatsoever. I’m always wearing hearing protection, though. 🤷♂️👍
Great and timely video. Following your precious one, I’ve been out and bought one of these saws. Would you recommend upgrading the blade before first use and then cutting the splinter guard? Many thanks for such a good video.
Thanks! And yes, I would - the difference in the blade kerf is only 0.2mm either side, but why not get it right from the start - especially if the new blade is likely to be the most used (and it will be) 👍👍
What sort of lifespan would you normally expect from a saw blade? After watching these videos I bought the Parkside saw and triton blade and all was well for a few months. It was fine for thin (5.5mm) ply but struggled a bit on mdf. Eventually I gave up on it and consigned it to a shelf. After rewatching the tracksaw series I took it out again determined to ‘master the track saw’ and struggled again with it. Changed back to the original blade and it’s awesome. In a matter of months and with no more than 50 cuts under its belt the triton blade is blunt. Is this usual wear for a track saw blade?
Sorry about off topic, I am looking to get some bar clamps which brand do you recommend? And which to stay away from? I purchased some from Lidl and they broke within a day of light use. I want to spend a bit not over the top as I am just getting into making things. Thanks keep up the good work Neil
Hi Neil. When you say bar clamps, do you mean F clamps (screw clamps) or one-handed clamps (quick clamps). ?
I sorry I mean one handed clamps with the Irwin or wicks own brand. Thanks
@@neil200830 For 0ne-handed clamps then I find the Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs hard to beat. Not cheap, mind. Otherwise I have a few of the Irwin type ones and they work well. 👍
Peter Millard thank you for your advice, I mite have a look at the Irwin clamps as I have a tool station and wicks where I live and these shops stock them. Keep up the good videos
Another great video Peter, helping those with limited budgets. Is it as simple as more teeth = better cut as Triton do a 60T blade for £14.99?
Thanks Andrew! Up to a point, yes, but bear in mind that a 48-tooth blade will probably still be OK for the occasional rip cut in solid timber, but something like a 60-tooth blade will likely bog down. But yes, as a general rule the higher the tooth count the finer the cut. 👍👍
i've just ordered a second hand titan! bought for a specific project, I'm going to upgrade straight away to the finest cut blade possible (cutting 9mm birch ply only). Seen some blades with 80 teeth. Any downsides to that many teeth?
Nice! With that many teeth (80) you may run the risk of scorching the edge of the cut; I’ve always found a 48t blade to be fine with Birch ply 👍👍
Looking for some decent spring clamps, could not any in your tools list. Could you recommend some?
Hi Kevin; I’ve just bought another ten of these - Heavy duty spring clamps - amzn.to/2Rw0b5u. They’re great, much better than the usual ‘market stall’ type of clip. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks ordered now I can truly be Vitten !!!!!
Hi, Peter, any thoughts on the 60T Triton blade @ ~£15?
Haven’t used it, but if the 48T is anything to go by it should be excellent. All I’ll say is that a 48T blade can be pushed into being an all-rounder, I’d expect a 60T to be just for crosscuts. 👍👍
I'll buy one, try it out and let you know. I'm mostly interested in how it will perform in plywood.
Is the splinter guard tape replaceable on these budget models?
Might be useful to be able to do so if the kerf of the new blade is narrower.
Yes, the splinter guard strip is replaceable in all tracksaws - it’s a consumable, designed for that purpose. 👍👍
just bought one of those track saws so interesting video
Honestly, I don’t think you’ll find a better blade for the money. 👍
Peter Millard
Just ordered one on amazon , thanks for heads up 👍
Does the Lidl saw work with a blade with 30mm inner bore and 20-30mm adapter ring?
Lidl sells that kind of blades and I don't know if they are suitable.
I’ve never tried it, but I don’t see why not. Then again, why not just buy the right sized blade? 🤷♂️👍
Thank you, Peter. I found an older video about the Lidl track saw (the A1 revision) from a guy who reviews Lidl products (bricovideo). He says blades with 30mm inner bore and 20-30mm adapter ring are not suitable. I don't know why, but if true it could be about the outer diameter of the clamping screw and washer for blade. Next week the saw will show in stores near me and I hope to grab one :)
Hi Peter, any idea if that triton blade will cut composite plastic cladding, the cladding is about 6/ to 8 mm in its thinnest part and about 18 in its thickest part of profile? Any recommendation greatly appreciated, cheers Steve
Hi Steve. I’ve never done it, but I can’t imagine it would have any trouble at all with it. 👍👍
Thank you, and amazing fast response 👍
Thanks just bought one cheers
👍
Hi Peter so what would you pick the Parkside the Lidl or the screwfix Titon plunge saw.
Video out on Friday about that.
the titan is currently £89.99 at screwfix.
Was back up to £105 when I looked this morning. 🤷♂️
Interesting that you managed to trim up that rail in one go? I thought the best way was to join them, cut through half of each, swap them and then finish the cut?
It is - for your first one; this isn’t my first one... 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Ah, so there is a knack to trimming the entire guard in one single swoop?
@@diyengineer811 You need to be able to hold the saw stead on the rail with the majority of the base-plate hanging off the back of the rail, whilst plunging and cutting. Not really for novices 👍
Excellent info for the do it yourself at home guy. More teeth = cleaner cut! Cheers.
Hi Peter, it took some looking but I found your link to the 48 tooth blade and have ordered one. I seem to remember you ordered some replacement rubber blade guards but I could not find that, so if you could point me in the right direction I would be grateful.
Hi John. Here you go:- Makita 3-metre splinter guard - amzn.to/2TdVApS (US: amzn.to/2MuagOT)
Great vídeo thanks 👍👍👍
I've become annoyed with several things on the Aldi Workzone saw I purchased last year that has made me decide to cut my losses and upgrade to a Makita SP6000. The straw that broke the camel's back so to speak was noticing that the sole of the saw was not flat and rocked slightly from corner to corner. I suppose I could send the saw back, but I've modified the tracks with 3mm rubber strip to stop them rocking and adjusted the set screws in the base to get the blade to cut square(r). Other issues with the saw are the ridiculously strong return spring you have to push against to plunge the blade down; better make sure those rails are well coated with silicone or it will bind! The mitre guage is inaccurate. The depth stop is a pain to adjust. If a plunge cut facility and superior dust collection is not required then possibly a better investment would be a decent quality circular saw, guide rail adapter and guide rail(s) that are compatible with quality plunge saws. If at a later date the unique features of a plunge saw become important you can spend your hard earned cash on a quality engineered product rather than the lottery of cheap Chinese tools that always leave you feeling slightly annoyed after using them!
I did a detailed review of the Aldi Workzone saw at the end of the tracksaw workshop series in January, and couldn’t recommend it - way too many issues to sort out before you get a functioning saw. The Parkside and the Titan OTOH are excellent for the money, and deliver solid performance out of the box, so not all cheap Chinese saws are the same. 👍👍
Could the splinter edge be upgraded on the Parkside? Are they all a similar thickness?
Yes, usually. The Aldi Workzone (scheppach) splinter-guards are unusually thin, but they can all be changed - it's a consumable, on a tracksaw. I generally recommend the Makita splinterguard as it's good value. See the video description for a link. 👍
did you keep the Parkside track saw? I was curious if the Benchdogs' guide rail dogs fit the Parkside rail.
They should do - it’s a standard t-slot underneath the rib - but I’ll check when I’m next in the workshop. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you 😊
Sorry, took a while. Yes, fits fine. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you, now I know which ones to order 😊
Worth upgrading in the Titan tracksaw?
Video out on Friday about that, but (spoiler) no, probably not. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop just saved me £10 ;)
Any ideas for loosening the screw holding the blade? It's like they fixed it with a pneumatic driver :(
if a squirt of WD40, Plus Gas, or penetrating oil doesn't work then **carefully** warming it up with a hot air gun can help; never had one that was stuck that badly though.
Thanks! I'll try that. I didn't want to break things but it is one very stubborn screw 😀
Peter, I have a parkside plunge saw. Have you noticed any side to side movement of the handle so you're not guaranteed a perfectly square edge or is it just my saw which moves?
So you mean the handle, or the whole saw? Have you snugged your saw onto the rail with the cam adjusters? If not, you might want to work your way through my Tracksaw Workshop series as I take you through the process of taking a fresh out of the box saw and setting it up ready to use in anger. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop the handle, which in turn is connected to the blade. The cam adjusters are set correctly. Let's try again. If you are making a cut, if you put pressure on the handle to the left as you are pushing the saw you will get one angle of cut. If you push the handle to the right, while making sure the sole is in contact with the guide rail, and pushing the saw through the wood, you get a different angle of cut? Must just be my saw which is 'loose'. This is more noticeable if you have to stop part way through, because of trapped wire or extraction hose, and then start the cut again. A noticeable step can be seen. I'll re watch your video just in case I've missed something.
@@royalflush1964 Hi Damion. Thanks for explaining. No, I don't have anything like that with mine, I'm sorry. If it's bad or getting worse, your saw's probably still under warranty, so it might be worth a phone call?? Let me know how you get on 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, fixed it, well, considerably improved it. The problem is with the hinge shaft. Any slight movement here is amplified at the top of the blade, mine was a good 2mm. So I stripped the saw down and inserted a shim made from some tin foil. The blade side to side movement is down to about ½mm now. Reassembled and good to go. Don't know how long it will last, we shall see.
hi peter was looking on amazon and was wondering would this 60 tooth blade give
a even better cut ...Triton 372474 - 165mm Plunge Track Saw Circular Saw Blade 60T from amazon
its a little of a tena £14.99 ..
Haven’t used it but it should be great, especially for cross cuts. 👍👍
they also sell it in screwfix Triton TCT Plunge Saw Blade 165 x 20mm 60T (7534R) for that pop in and buy
Hi peter use 56T or 60T blade HiATB teeth... for example makita B-56720 ;-)
Aw dear, a manual spindle-lock lever. On my first circular saw I had to shove a screwdriver through a hole in the blade... or was that the one where you couldn't lock the blade at all, you just 'hung' a ring spanner on the nut and hit the other end with a hammer? "Do not start the saw without removing the screwdriver...". Ah, those were the days. ;-)
How much difference would the 0.2 mm offset from the blade to the splinter guard make?
I wondered that too. Peter, what’s the cut like with the Triton blade and the rail where you trimmed the splinter guard with the original 2.6mm kerf blade? Didn’t look like the splinter guard was doing much so perhaps little difference? With my Parkside rails the splinter guard is convex profile and doesn’t appear to touch the workpiece where the blade is cutting
You’re right, there’s not much in it, and I mentioned it in the video because if I didn’t then a bunch of people would complain about it, lol! I certainly don’t work to 0.2mm tolerances and I don’t know anyone in the business does, but it wouldn’t stop showing me folks having a whinge and a moan! 👍👍
Any suggestions for my maffell with the flex tax as maffell blades are real expensive
They're a slighty oddball size, aren't they? I think Key Blades and fixings do them - yep: amzn.to/2Zordzz. I haven't used that specific one, but I had their 160mm Festool compatible one for a test in the Tracksaw Workshop series and it did very well.
I am presuming the 24 tooth blade doesn't cut the splinter guard too cleanly, allowing for a poor cut.
No, any blade should cut the splinter-guard cleanly - it’s just a rubber strip, so if it can’t cut that then it won’t do a decent job of the wood underneath! 👍
Peter have you got a link?
Link in the video description, as always, just be aware stock’s are low as they’ve sold a few...👍 Triton 48t blade - amzn.to/2EQgUMJ
A few minutes after you posted your video there were 6 blades in stock at Amazon. Now there are none. I bet all of the sales were due to this video. You should get comission. Lol
Haha! Maybe I should have called ahead and told them to stock up! Ph, and if folks use my links then I get a (very) modest referral fee from Amazon 👍👍
Hi, can anybody tell me if the blade screw at the Parkside plunge saw is opening anticlockwise as is stuck and I don't want to force it. Thanks.
It’s a standard circular saw blade - anti-clockwise to undo. Make sure the spindle lock is fully engaged, and the saw unplugged, obvs. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Thanks.
01:50 It was mentioned in a review by "The restoration couple" that the track splinter guard strip was the wrong shape and width - a clear quality control failure. In fact he went completely ape shit about it which was very amusing to watch. Perhaps that same QC issue is also present this sample?
No, the splinter guards are all good , ans Tim’s issue was much more severe than that. 👍👍
Perfect ... but not quite, he laments. One of your most demanding and completely unreasonable viewers would like to see blade tested on laminate or MFC. MDF is cuddly stuff. Would you need a sacrificial top-layer, masking tape, and pre-cut to meet wifey approval - not even a suspicion of break-out?
It’s just not something I use I’m afraid, so I’d have to buy some in specially. I also did a conti-board test when I did the original Festool b cheap tool video and I had to look very, very hard to see any real difference between the stock Titan blade and the Festool one, so I settled on the Birch ply test as it’s something I’ll always have around, and because the relative splintering is easy to see. Triton sell this blade as a laminate blade, so I’d expect it to be good. 👍👍
Don't be fooled by the seller of the Triton blade who claims it will be sent within 5 days. I ordered two days ago and now I've just learned the item will be sent on the 2nd July!
Funny how I didn't receive a message from the seller informing me of this.
Sorry to hear that; all items were in stock when the link was posted a week ago, but it's been a very popular item. The blade's available elsewhere on amazon, but at a higher price.
@@10MinuteWorkshop it's 50p more at Screwfix so I just ordered from them.
@@Argyll1000 Good. Glad you got yourself sorted, and I appreciate you at least trying to use my links! 👍
The blade kerf doesn't affect the rail rubber.
Seriously?? You’re saying a 2.6mm wide blade doesn’t cut any wider than a 2.2mm blade. Tell you what - try it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I am curious about this. Why would a thicker blade run any closer to the motor? It seems the extra thickness would be on the waste side. Unless the saw plate is the same thickness and the teeth are wider, then half the increase would be on both sides. Then it would have trimmed the strip back and made the first track useless for the original blade. There is much to know about saw blades. I am new to this world of track saws and have bought two Festool ones at tool auctions along with lots of track, all of which may need new splinter guards. Is changing the splinter guard strip a worth while investment?
Hi Barry. It's the teeth that are thicker, not the blade, and the teeth are, for obvious reasons, centred on the blade. A blade with thicker teeth makes a wider cut (kerf) so if you've trimmed back the splinter-guard with a wider kerf blade, there will be a discrepancy if you switch to a narrower-kerf blade. Re your splinter-guards, you can actually unpeel them, and re-stick them a little further out, which may help. But yes, the splinter-guards are a consumable and are meant to be replaced. HTH Peter
I bought this blade for my TS55. It’s excellent. Cuts 18mm Moisture MDF like butter
2202 Key Blades and Fixings 160mm... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FTW2RVV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share