I have a salt water system for chlorine generation. My question is about stabilized vs unstabilized SHOCK. I was told by another pool person that I should buy stabilized SHOCK but now my CA levels are slowly rising as the season progresses. I've had to drain out most of my water once already after using the shock to fight off an algae bloom when I opened the pool for the summer. Should I switch to unstabilized shock? I do have a supply of CA left over from last year.
I get buying stabilized shock for a salt system, but you'll have better control if you use unstabilized shock and add chlorine stabilizer separately. You don't want the CYA levels going too high.
My question is using a salt system I make my own chlorine why spend the $25 for 4 lbs. of stabilizer? A bag of salt is $9. I do take my water to the pool store to be tested and the only thing they tell me I need is stabilizer. Should I buy it?
@@Griffin8s My salt system is from Intex, the same maker as my pool and other equipment. It is very inexpensive (compared to other salt systems, at least) and it does not produce a whole lot of chlorine each day. As the summer gets hot in Texas I find that I cannot maintain the chlorine at 2-3 PPM as needed unless there is at least 30-40 PPM of stabilizer present. Without stabilizer the salt system just cannot make chlorine fast enough to keep up with the sun burning it off.
I have been in the Commercial Recreation Industry part of pool use .... for over 65 years... ownership of commercial recreation pool facilities, advisor to school districts regarding their pools, and commercial and residential pool design (the 1984 Olympic committee used our design for filtration speed and efficiency for the pools used in the Los Angeles Olympics). It is such a pleasure to find a site that takes their time to thoroughly explain all aspects in such a manner, that the regular home pool owners can actually understand what information is being presented. Please continue with presenting more information that answers the questions of regular and commercial pool owners.
"commonly shock is unstabilized chlorine". If the shock lists "calcium hypochlorite", then it doesn't contain any CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer). If the shock lists di-chlor... it does contain CYA/stabilizer.
Your videos have really helped me. I created a Playlist called "pool school" in my you tube account just for my quick go to vids when conducting maintenance on my pool. I feel like it's a calming /relaxing job now to perform the weekly maintenance, vs like before feeling like it's a foreign language with all of the pool jargon. I believe I will save a lot of money by learning how to take care of my pool by watching your vids. and downloading the quick guide. I will be purchasing the handbook soon! Thanks!
brilliant! we can find this info in gits and pieces all over the web..... BUT you do a super great job of explaing in a way that it all ties together nicely and youre slightly more entertaining thjan most of these "POOL HOW TOs"! Thank you.
Please help my cya was at 138 the guy at the pool store said to drain a foot at a time and refill. I drained. 18" and refilled four times in four day. Had water retested and the cya went up to 168. Pool is tile and 23000 gal. Pool store need no idea why. I bought your course from swim university did not see any on this in there. Thank you
This was super useful. I changed my Salt Cell last year to my AutoPilot system(original last 10 years), and this year in particular it just doesn't maintain a clean water even though the level looks correct. Tested my cyanuric acid level after watching this...its its practically non existent. Combine that with a hot and dry summer with hardly any rain and that is probably the issue. Going to add stabilizer for the first time in 12 years :D
So, before I found your video and just learning my pool, I used only stabilized chlorine granules for weekly maintenance and pucks in a floater. I found that doing this, I raised my CyA way too high. I didn't understand why, especially since I regularly flush my sand filter, so I am draining some water and replacing and my CyA was still high and not dropping. I then watched this and realized I need to be using unstabilized. I buy liquid version and it is easy. And later, use stabilized when the CyA is back to normal to shock and to maintain that CyA level is what I am learning.
I don’t under why anyone would give you thumbs down?? So weird. Great job of explaining this stuff! I’m new to this and have learned a lot from your videos!
Our SPA's cyanuric acid is always too high. I do not want to keep draining water all the time (almost every 2 weeks). We are using 3" tri-chlor tablets. Should I use other chlorine products, like calcium Hypochlorite?
Still pool learning! So this is great. I hadn’t realised there were two types of chlorine. So hadn’t been shocking my pool! 🙈 I soon learnt after my PH became to high. We had an algae bloom. We have now shocked the pool using unstabalised Chlorine. I may have over done it! My dip stick is the darkest colour for chlorine….. and it’s been cloudy all week 🙈😂 this pool maintenance stuff is hard work!!!
Can I use oxygen tablet instead of ozonator to my pool capacity 150000 liters. the oxygen tablet is used in fish forming if so what level of ppm of oxygen
I typically use the ABC method ,whereby : A= Maintaining the chlorine level with Trichlor pucks (stabilized) in a floater. B= Shocking weekly with liquid ( unstabilized) shock. C= Adding a weekly maintenance dose of POLY algaecide/clarifier. If I want to lower the pH and add a bit of stabilizer @ the same time, I'll add Trichlor or Dichlor granular shock.
Can DPD 1 and DPD3 tablets be used for free chlorine and total chlorine field testing when TRICHLOROISO CYANIC ACID GRANULES 90% concentration is the disinfectant
Since you said the only way to lower CYA is to dilute your water, does that mean once your CYA gets to 50 ppm you can stop using tablets forever and just use unstabilized chlorine? I know pool water evaporates but other than that, does CYA work indefinitely as a stabilizer?
This is a good question and exactly what my question is. I would love for someone to address this because without this answered we are left in the dark.
Love this and all of your videos, but there are many other videos explaining this, how has EVERYONE missed the most important piece!? How do you safely transition to non-stabilized!? I’ve heard it’s extremely dangerous to transition to non-stabilized tabs. Can blow up the filter, cause other explosions if you mix the two. So what’s the ideal time to wait? A day, a week, before changing to unstabalized tabs? Please help and let us know if there is anything else to be aware of to transition. I feel like this needs a whole separate video given how dangerous it is to mix the two.
I have a fiberglass pool and was told that we cannot use Cal-Hypo. Is that true? We're using Clorox trichloro-s-triazinetrione shock, but I believe we're in chlorine lock because that's only stabilized shock... What do you recommend we use shock-wise for our pool? 22,000 gallon fiberglass pool with full sun all day.
Cal-Hypo needs to be pre-dissolved in a bucket of water first since it doesn’t dissolve very fast. Dichlor dissolves better, but it still might leave some residue (and increases CYA). Any concentrated chlorine can mess up any pool surface if it’s not mixed in properly. The trick is to pre-dissolve the shock and pour it slowly around the pool (and over a return jet in the deep end while your pump is running). Doing this won’t damage your pool surfaces when added and mixed correctly.
To add to this: Chlorine (free) reacts / binds > raises combine chlorine. Shocking reduces combine Chlorine. CYA stabilizes, so what happems if you shock a stabilized pool? Seems to mee levels will remain high excessively long.
Using pucks for a year my CYA levels got up to 150 ppm which knocked out the chlorine's ability to sanitize. Next thing i knew i got an algae bloom that no amount of chlorine could stop. I had to raise the Ph with bicarb of soda and address the algae with algaecide and clarifier. Ran the pump 24 hrs and my pool is clear. Algae settled to the bottom which i will vacuum to waste.
If both your cya and calcium are both at their maximum level or higher, use liquid pool chlorine as it doesn't have calcium and it doesn't have cya. Walmart, Lowes, and Home Depot has it by the gallon and it is 10% Sodium Hypochlorite.
Not a fan of using pucks or any stabilized chlorine at all. All they do is continue to increase your stabilizer levels (CYA) and before you know it, your pool is green and you need a partial or full drain to make the chlorine effective again. It's better to set your stabilizer level to where you want it (50ppm) and then just use liquid chlorine or a salt water generator exclusively. Most clean pools will burn 2 - 4 ppm of FC (free chlorine) daily during the swimming season depending on location and a few other factors. It's simply a matter of replacing what the pool loses daily or every other day if you keep your chlorine level a bit higher. I don't even have to shock my pool using this method. Also, all solid forms of chlorine are STABILIZED chlorine except for Cal Hypo. Trichlor, Dichlor, Pucks, Granules and all shock as well. Cal Hypo can be a problem as well if you live in an area with hard water because you will continue to raise your calcium hardness (CH) by using it. CH, like CYA, can only be reduced with partial drain and refill, so it's not much better of a solution. Stick with liquid chlorine, or get a salt generator. Those are the two best solutions. I took over my pool care from a pool guy 5 years ago and haven't had a single algae outbreak using these methods. The only other thing I add to my pool is muriatic acid to lower the pH when it climbs near 8.0. That's it!!!
@@brendaannan5154 You can use anything from the big box stores like Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes. They are usually 10% strength and generally run around $7 to $9 for a case of 2 gallons. Liquid shock is the same thing. Just make sure you check the dates on the bottles or cases. Avoid anything over 2 months old because the chlorine will start degrading over time. Don't get fooled by the name. It's all marketing. Shock is something you do to your pool, not something you add. They are all just chlorine. Some in hard form (like granules, tablets) and the rest liquid.
@@Paggy6668 every couple of days you add a little bit of liquid shock in small amounts around the perimeter of the pool and you don’t use any tablets? This keeps the cyanuric acid level down and prevents algae? How much liquid chlorine do you use and how often? It must be a small amount the night before. If it’s better I would like to try this method. Thank you again.
@@brendaannan5154 My 20K gallon pool requires around 25 oz of 10% liquid chlorine to raise the FC (free chlorine) level by 1ppm. Most sanitized pools generally use 2 to 4ppm of chlorine daily during the swim season, so you have to replace that chlorine to keep the pool clean and sanitized. So for me, I would generally add 50 to 75oz of 10% liquid chlorine DAILY. It doesn't really matter when you add it, you just have to replace what you're losing daily to the sun. If you just can't stand the daily additions, you could go with a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) and that will produce the chlorine for you. I decided to get one last year as the pandemic was starting and it has made my pool care so much easier. I check my chlorine and pH levels around once a week now because the SWG does all the work for me. I just set the output % and verify with my testing that the FC is staying steady in the pool. If it's a little low, I up the %. No more lugging boxes of liquid chlorine from the store, no more having to add it manually daily. It's very convenient and it's especially nice if I want to go anywhere for a couple of days or longer. No need to find someone to add chlorine for me. The SWG does it for me. They aren't cheap though, and the prices have really gone up this year.
I have a problem, I can not get my free chlorine level up and my other chlorine level up as well. I have put 2 bags of shock in at one time and still have trouble. I have the pucks in the floater and even add liquid chlorine. I have been putting in baking soda and my PH is OK. I have even started to add the canard acid to be that up. I Need Help. I have been using test strips. May be those test stpips are bad. That free chlorine got me stumped. Please let me know.
Stanley Keith I’m having an issue too. Newbie here. I didn’t know that my pool was 27k gal and therefore needed 3 packs! Now my CYA is too low still and the pool store saying pucks will be fine (I’m at 5 CYA). Heading to the pool store.
So which should you use if your town water has high CYA naturally? We filled the pool yesterday and tested today the chlorine level was white (which didn’t even register on the strip color) but the CYA was 80. Thanks
Yes, it can. When the pump turns off, those pucks are sitting in the skimmer and and the water around them becomes very concentrated with chlorine. Then your pump turns on in the morning, and guess what, that concentrated chlorine goes to your equipment and can deteriorate o-rings and rubber gaskets prematurely.
*my question is, i live at north I use HTH shock for my pool, now with the weather going up and down when I check my pool reads no chlorine is the cold weather eating the chlorine or why I'm reading no chlorine? Please help* 🙄
Matt have a question salt pool 21k gallons I shocked last nite at 15ppm used 8.25% Clorox bleach what's your thoughts on ppm when shocking this amount of gallons weekly ????
I have a saltwater pool with salt cell to generate chlorine. I've noticed my total chlorine is always high (like 10ppm) while active chlorine is always low (0.5-1.0 ppm). I've added dichlor shock, and I see total chlorine keeps at the 10 ppm level, instead of balancing it. I've tried to increase my chlorine production in my salt cell, and still total chlorine is high, but active is low. Do you have any advice? Thanks!
I balance my pool with a Taylor CK - 2005 test kit about 2 months ago. Recently the past week my free chlorine has been registering over 10 ppm. I turned off the automatic chlorinator for the past week and the free chlorine does not seem to have lowered at all when testing daily. I use stabilized chlorine pucks and wondering whether that may be causing an issue. Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
I have never added pure CYA to my pool . Only the micro dosing from the floaters . But some how i have excessive stabilizer when testing . Cant afford to dump large amounts of water due to being in a water scarce region . Is it possible the the micro dosing from the floaters builds up to high levels over time ?
I was having to change my pool water every year because it was becoming overstabilized. What I did was drain and refill my pool then use tablets until the stabilizer reached the proper level (50 ppm) and then switched to liquid chlorine that is unstabilized. It's kind of a pain to hustle gallon jugs of chlorine around but my pool water is 3 years old now and it looks and tests great. Your pool water should last 3 to 5 years using this method.
Great review, but which Chlorine tablet do you use if you CYA is 150 ppm, and your hardness is over 800 ppm. This is my case. I know the answer is to drain the pool, but we are under server water restrictions. I do plan to drain the pool, but after we are off water restrictions. I am now using Sodium Hypochlorite liquid for chlorinating my pool. It does not leave extra CYA in the pool, and does not add to my Calcium hardness problem. It is not that expensive.
My fool same if your. I am wait this winter the water restriction off to drain the pool during I have to use more sodium hypochlorite liquid for keep the pool has chlorinated. But the sun burn it very quicker, My pool PH high 8.2 I try to lower ph by pour muriatic acid in but not go anywhere ph still stay the same and my pool start has some yellow algae grow around the wall and step what do you do fix that.
Just out of curiosity, what would be the rate of "burn off" of chlorine on a regular hot summer day? Speaking of a pool with water and sun, nothing else.
I recommend Leslie Pools “NoPhos” down the skimmer to clear up algae. Then I recommend “Perfect Weekly” sold by Leslie Pools. You can purchase online and have it shipped but we live near a Leslie Pool Store. First test for pH and alkalinity. Use an algaecide once a week. Shock once a week. Don’t use too much shock because you will have to wait until the chlorine level is between 1-4 ppm before you can swim. With heavy rain the algae is more apt to grow so you may have to add an additional dose. If you use the Perfect Weekly from Leslie Pools you will have a beautiful, clean pool and less work. On a daily basis you can use chlorine tablets. When you begin the season each year and your pool is green, I highly recommend NoPhos. It kills the phosphates which feed algae. Without phosphates in your pool the algae disappears.
My pool is on our rooftop garden, under a shade, will the sun still burn off the pool shock as it's supposed to? Or is it better not to use pool shock for my pool? Thank you!
I have a problem where my chlorine is never right. The only time it's stability reads ideal is after about 6 hrs -12 hrs after shocking it. Is it ok to shock my pool twice a week to keep the cholorine up. I have 3 chlorine tablets floating at all times. But the level starts low or under. It's only ideal when I shock it. I need help. The pool turns cloudy every few days. Not green just cloudy w no chlorine levels. Any advice anyone
I love Swim University and these videos. Only thing I would say is....wouldn't you want your FC just a little higher if your CYA level is 50 or so? like 4ppm instead of 3ppm? If I'm wrong feel free to say so. Thx again for the great videos!
You should be shooting for a 30-50 ppm on cya, anything over 50 will cause lock out on stabilized chlorine and at a 60 you need a 6 to have any active chlorine. Currently they are working on changing suggested cya levels to 8-32 ppm. Also keep in mind adding cya lowers ph as it has a ph from 3.3 to 4.0, which as it sets in will counter act a shocking treatment. If cya gets to high you out risk to teeth hair bones as well as lowering ability to remove pathogens.
if a pool already has a decent amount of CYA in it, say 50 ppm. wouldn't unstabilized chlorine be protected from CYA regardless? so in that case there's no difference adding stabilized or unstabilized chlorine because there's enough CYA in the water to shield chlorine from the sun. Am I correct?
If you add stabilized chlorine, you are also adding CYA so your CYA will continue to increase. After some time, you are going to need to drain your pool to lower the CYA. So if you are already at 50 CYA, you would want to add unstablized chlorine.
You suggest that a new pool owner should keep Cal hypo and Tri chor both on hand? What happens if they try to mix them? Also why would you put tablets in the skimmer that goes straight to the pump and filter, doesn't it sanitize better going straight to the body of water?
I realize this comment is a year old, but putting the tablets in the skimmer helps distribute it through the pool water more evenly and effectively than a floater. Especially because floaters have the tendency to get caught up on things(i.e.,pool ladder, hoses, corners of pool, etc), therefore not letting the tablets to be distributed across the whole pool of water evenly...Hopefully that makes sense...🤷🏼♀️😂😉
Great video. If you use stablized chlorine, how do you prevent the CYA levels from building up and ultimately becoming too high? Would it not be inevitable?
I just had a new liner put in my in ground pool. I live in Alabama. I can’t seem to get my chlorine level up. I have added 6 bags of shock and 1 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine and still can’t get the chlorine level up. Any suggestions
Question - When I add unstabilized chlorine in the evening and it works its magic overnight, how quickly does it burn off the next day when the sun starts to hit the water?
This is just my opinion, but I think it will burn off more quickly if you live in Arizona and Florida. If you live in New England it could take longer because the sun is less intense the further away you go from the equator. I’m not an expert.
@@TimLewallen you must have a much longer pool season than us New Englanders! It was even shorter this year due to the rain, but we can always use rain, so I will accept this as a shorter season than most.
I'm in south Florida... where it's about to get HOT. I use liquid chlorine /shock from PAP. I also was told to use 2 3" tablets to float (they have stabilizer 4 in 1) a week. Does this make sense or is it excessive? (10,000 gal pool non salt)
I use a solar copper ionizer and in 10,000gal i put about half a gallon in twice a week and it’s fine according to the pool guy but only bc the copper. I really don’t want cyanuric acid in my pool.
Great breakdown of the different Chlorine forms and their uses! Question, is a floater (with adjustable vents) a good way chlorinate? I didn't know you could put it in the skimmer basket, is this a good route?
It's an OK way, but I would recommend a chlorinator first, then just using your skimmer basket. Though some folks would say that's a bad idea, I've been doing it for years with no issues. It distributes chlorine more evenly than the floater. I just avoid floaters altogether.
@@SwimUniversity I normally put about 3 pucks in for my floater. Should I drop that down to 1-2 and refill more regularly if I were to use the skimmer basket?
If you have a heater, I would avoid putting in skimmer because that could cause big problems to your exchanger and other internals. Best bet would be an in line tablet feeder. But without a heater, skimmer works great like he said.
If i add the pucks that have stabilizer in them wouldn't the stabilizer levels keep rising each time i added new pucks seeing how the stabilizer doesn't go down unless the water evaporates (you drain the pool)... Wouldn't stabilizer just keep rising? I'm really confused by this....if one puck provides say 5ppm stabilzer would i not have enough stabilizer until i added around 6 pucks? Then i would keep adding 5ppm every time? I know this isn't the case but i like to understand how this works
So my pool has low alk and high cya...I added a crapload of freshwater and still high...they said add non stabilized liquid chlorine.but didn't explain if this is some trick to lower cya....I already hate having a pool ...the info is so unclear everywhere
i tried adding stabilizer to my pool, its the first brand i tried but it was little hard pieces so i tried to crush them in water and add it once it desolved but i could not get it to disolve so i just added it into the pool thinking maybe it takes a while..well nah it just settled to the bottom so i had to vacuum it all up..did i do something wrong?
Thank you for your videos! I am new a new outdoor owner! For my chlorinator, I have Nature2 Vision Pro Vessel that uses a chlorinator canister. I have the V-Pack Chlorinating Canister that has the tabs inside. The canister label states that it limits chlorine exposure. Every time I test the pool water, my chlorine level is low. Do you know if this could be because of the cartridge? The water looks clear, but I'm just wondering if it is safe to swim even though the reading is low. :)
Please tell me why every time I shock my pool my water turns yellowish. I was told it´s caused by minerals--primarily iron. How can I prevent this from happening? I would really appreciate it.
You need to use a metal and stain product in a double or triple dose, treat staining with vitamin c, and use a maintenance dose of scale and iron remover if topping off with well. Basically when you shock, you’re super oxidizing copper or iron and that’s why it’s turning on you. Need to remove the metals before somehow. If your water is that bad you’re gona need in line hose filters for filling.
Your video makes it sound like the straight NaClO doesn't benefit from the separately added Cyanuric Acid. I have found with my heated water (95F) and SoCal UV exposure that I can burn 1 gallon worth of dilute NaClO in 2-3 days even with 40ppm Cyanuric Acid. I've run 2 stabilized tablets at a time and found no improvement in levels. The liquid seems to be the only thing that can keep my free Cl levels in the proper range. I do have rather hard water, and I also usually add about ½ gallon of Muriatic a week to keep the pH 7.5. Should I be using stabilized Cl or is the manually added Cyanuric granules to hold 40-60ppm sufficient with the liquid Cl to get the most bang for the buck out of sanitizer?
Thanks for this information.if my CYA 60ppm i have to keep chorine 3ppm? i tried so many times but in the last algae grow up in pool but after that i keep chlorine at 7ppm and my pool is ok now. Is dangerous for swimmers at 7ppm?
Try using “NoPhos”. It lowers phosphate levels in your pool. Algae feeds off of phosphates. Then when your algae clears up you can add “Perfect Weekly” by Leslie Pools. That way you won’t have to use so much chlorine. Your pool will be a clear blue. Of course, balance the pH and alkalinity as much as you can first.
What about a pool that’s largely shaded? Does this affect the number of stable/unstable chlorine I need to add? Will it take longer for it to burn off in the shade?
My pool over the winter has insane algae. I have shocked it so much over the last week it should be glowing in the dark by now. But I still have algae stuck to the walls and staining. And the stains are more brownish red. Probably coming from the leaves from our trees falling in the pool. What are your suggestions for the algae stuck on the walls and the staining
If the water is clear I’d say to balance your chems, get your alk then ph where they should be. If the linear is literally stained green where you can’t get it up from all other methods there’s stuff called stain remover. Have done it for 3 different customers now and have been impressed
Can I please ask, you say you can use un-stabilised chlorine to shock pool, and then normal stabilised chlorine to keep the pool sanitised on a daily basis.. I’ve read some websites warning that if you use both un-stabilised and stabilised chlorine in the pool it can explode!? Is this true??
Not true at all. Although, I definitely would not use stabilized chlorine on a daily basis, only as needed. If the stabilizer level is too high (above 50ppm), you should only be using unstabilized chlorine.
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I have a salt water system for chlorine generation. My question is about stabilized vs unstabilized SHOCK. I was told by another pool person that I should buy stabilized SHOCK but now my CA levels are slowly rising as the season progresses. I've had to drain out most of my water once already after using the shock to fight off an algae bloom when I opened the pool for the summer. Should I switch to unstabilized shock? I do have a supply of CA left over from last year.
I get buying stabilized shock for a salt system, but you'll have better control if you use unstabilized shock and add chlorine stabilizer separately. You don't want the CYA levels going too high.
My question is using a salt system I make my own chlorine why spend the $25 for 4 lbs. of stabilizer? A bag of salt is $9. I do take my water to the pool store to be tested and the only thing they tell me I need is stabilizer. Should I buy it?
@@Griffin8s My salt system is from Intex, the same maker as my pool and other equipment. It is very inexpensive (compared to other salt systems, at least) and it does not produce a whole lot of chlorine each day. As the summer gets hot in Texas I find that I cannot maintain the chlorine at 2-3 PPM as needed unless there is at least 30-40 PPM of stabilizer present. Without stabilizer the salt system just cannot make chlorine fast enough to keep up with the sun burning it off.
It's just for those times when you're not running the generator that the chlorine will stay in the water while the sun's out.
I have been in the Commercial Recreation Industry part of pool use .... for over 65 years... ownership of commercial recreation pool facilities, advisor to school districts regarding their pools, and commercial and residential pool design (the 1984 Olympic committee used our design for filtration speed and efficiency for the pools used in the Los Angeles Olympics). It is such a pleasure to find a site that takes their time to thoroughly explain all aspects in such a manner, that the regular home pool owners can actually understand what information is being presented.
Please continue with presenting more information that answers the questions of regular and commercial pool owners.
"commonly shock is unstabilized chlorine".
If the shock lists "calcium hypochlorite", then it doesn't contain any CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer).
If the shock lists di-chlor... it does contain CYA/stabilizer.
Your videos have really helped me. I created a Playlist called "pool school" in my you tube account just for my quick go to vids when conducting maintenance on my pool. I feel like it's a calming /relaxing job now to perform the weekly maintenance, vs like before feeling like it's a foreign language with all of the pool jargon. I believe I will save a lot of money by learning how to take care of my pool by watching your vids. and downloading the quick guide. I will be purchasing the handbook soon! Thanks!
Ty for all of this help. Can you discuss how to use your chlorinator? I have not been able to find a video on this.
Binge-watching your videos while daydreaming about my pool at work. Absolutely great info here for someone who has never had a pool before! THANK YOU!
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying them ;-)
Kinda like Clark Griswold in Christmas Vacation
brilliant! we can find this info in gits and pieces all over the web..... BUT you do a super great job of explaing in a way that it all ties together nicely and youre slightly more entertaining thjan most of these "POOL HOW TOs"! Thank you.
When I shock my pool should I keep the chlorine tablets in the floater or take it out?
Please help my cya was at 138 the guy at the pool store said to drain a foot at a time and refill. I drained. 18" and refilled four times in four day. Had water retested and the cya went up to 168.
Pool is tile and 23000 gal. Pool store need no idea why. I bought your course from swim university did not see any on this in there. Thank you
This was super useful. I changed my Salt Cell last year to my AutoPilot system(original last 10 years), and this year in particular it just doesn't maintain a clean water even though the level looks correct. Tested my cyanuric acid level after watching this...its its practically non existent. Combine that with a hot and dry summer with hardly any rain and that is probably the issue. Going to add stabilizer for the first time in 12 years :D
So, before I found your video and just learning my pool, I used only stabilized chlorine granules for weekly maintenance and pucks in a floater. I found that doing this, I raised my CyA way too high. I didn't understand why, especially since I regularly flush my sand filter, so I am draining some water and replacing and my CyA was still high and not dropping. I then watched this and realized I need to be using unstabilized. I buy liquid version and it is easy. And later, use stabilized when the CyA is back to normal to shock and to maintain that CyA level is what I am learning.
I don’t under why anyone would give you thumbs down?? So weird. Great job of explaining this stuff! I’m new to this and have learned a lot from your videos!
My cya is at 100 for an 18 ft above ground pool. Should be around 10k gallons?
Our SPA's cyanuric acid is always too high. I do not want to keep draining water all the time (almost every 2 weeks). We are using 3" tri-chlor tablets. Should I use other chlorine products, like calcium Hypochlorite?
What is the difference between trichloro-s-triazinetrio vs sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione?
Can I switch from stabilized chlorine to unstabilized?
would a pool cover help with using less chloriine???
Still pool learning! So this is great. I hadn’t realised there were two types of chlorine.
So hadn’t been shocking my pool! 🙈 I soon learnt after my PH became to high. We had an algae bloom.
We have now shocked the pool using unstabalised Chlorine. I may have over done it! My dip stick is the darkest colour for chlorine….. and it’s been cloudy all week 🙈😂 this pool maintenance stuff is hard work!!!
My pool guy installed my chlorinated backwards so for weeks ive been battling algae. Finally figured it out and fixed it myself
YES balancing pool chemicals is hard. Reminds me of college chemistry in which I barely passed
Can I use oxygen tablet instead of ozonator to my pool capacity 150000 liters. the oxygen tablet is used in fish forming if so what level of ppm of oxygen
I can’t get my cya up past 20 ppm. Some said it my be because of bacteria. I use in unstabilized chlorine. Should I switch to stabilized ?
when adding Cal-hypo to above ground, vinyl pool --- do I pull back the pool cover? or is it ok to keep pool cover on?
You’re the best at explaining all this!
Thank you for mentioning indoor pools (in my case, indoor hottub) I've been trying to scour videos for more tips on indoor use, very little results.
This is where I’m at as well. Help for the hot tub?👀🤔
Hi,can I stabilized and shock my pool at the same time? Thanks..!! 🙏
I typically use the ABC method ,whereby :
A= Maintaining the chlorine level with Trichlor pucks (stabilized) in a floater.
B= Shocking weekly with liquid ( unstabilized) shock.
C= Adding a weekly maintenance dose of POLY algaecide/clarifier.
If I want to lower the pH and add a bit of stabilizer @ the same time, I'll add Trichlor or Dichlor granular shock.
👍
But why do you call this the ABC method? None of those things start with A, B, C?
May i ask how often you do each one of these A,B,C steps?
Can DPD 1 and DPD3 tablets be used for free chlorine and total chlorine field testing when TRICHLOROISO CYANIC ACID GRANULES 90% concentration is the disinfectant
Since you said the only way to lower CYA is to dilute your water, does that mean once your CYA gets to 50 ppm you can stop using tablets forever and just use unstabilized chlorine? I know pool water evaporates but other than that, does CYA work indefinitely as a stabilizer?
This is a good question and exactly what my question is. I would love for someone to address this because without this answered we are left in the dark.
What about Ozone Pool System
Wich chamical you have to if water is solt water
Love this and all of your videos, but there are many other videos explaining this, how has EVERYONE missed the most important piece!? How do you safely transition to non-stabilized!? I’ve heard it’s extremely dangerous to transition to non-stabilized tabs. Can blow up the filter, cause other explosions if you mix the two. So what’s the ideal time to wait? A day, a week, before changing to unstabalized tabs? Please help and let us know if there is anything else to be aware of to transition. I feel like this needs a whole separate video given how dangerous it is to mix the two.
Can I use regular liquid chlorine and cya separate
Can DPD 1 and DPD 3 tablets be used to test free chlorine and total chlorine when TRICHLOROISO CYANURIC ACID is the sanitizer
I have a fiberglass pool and was told that we cannot use Cal-Hypo. Is that true? We're using Clorox trichloro-s-triazinetrione shock, but I believe we're in chlorine lock because that's only stabilized shock... What do you recommend we use shock-wise for our pool? 22,000 gallon fiberglass pool with full sun all day.
Cal-Hypo needs to be pre-dissolved in a bucket of water first since it doesn’t dissolve very fast. Dichlor dissolves better, but it still might leave some residue (and increases CYA). Any concentrated chlorine can mess up any pool surface if it’s not mixed in properly. The trick is to pre-dissolve the shock and pour it slowly around the pool (and over a return jet in the deep end while your pump is running). Doing this won’t damage your pool surfaces when added and mixed correctly.
How do you do this with a jacuzzi?
To add to this: Chlorine (free) reacts / binds > raises combine chlorine.
Shocking reduces combine Chlorine.
CYA stabilizes, so what happems if you shock a stabilized pool?
Seems to mee levels will remain high excessively long.
Using pucks for a year my CYA levels got up to 150 ppm which knocked out the chlorine's ability to sanitize. Next thing i knew i got an algae bloom that no amount of chlorine could stop. I had to raise the Ph with bicarb of soda and address the algae with algaecide and clarifier. Ran the pump 24 hrs and my pool is clear. Algae settled to the bottom which i will vacuum to waste.
Is "Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate": Dichlor or trichlor or is it dichlor with cyanuric acid?
How do you measure the acid levels?
So how do you keep you cya from getting too high and also keeping your calcium from getting too high
If both your cya and calcium are both at their maximum level or higher, use liquid pool chlorine as it doesn't have calcium and it doesn't have cya. Walmart, Lowes, and Home Depot has it by the gallon and it is 10% Sodium Hypochlorite.
Not a fan of using pucks or any stabilized chlorine at all. All they do is continue to increase your stabilizer levels (CYA) and before you know it, your pool is green and you need a partial or full drain to make the chlorine effective again. It's better to set your stabilizer level to where you want it (50ppm) and then just use liquid chlorine or a salt water generator exclusively. Most clean pools will burn 2 - 4 ppm of FC (free chlorine) daily during the swimming season depending on location and a few other factors. It's simply a matter of replacing what the pool loses daily or every other day if you keep your chlorine level a bit higher. I don't even have to shock my pool using this method.
Also, all solid forms of chlorine are STABILIZED chlorine except for Cal Hypo. Trichlor, Dichlor, Pucks, Granules and all shock as well. Cal Hypo can be a problem as well if you live in an area with hard water because you will continue to raise your calcium hardness (CH) by using it. CH, like CYA, can only be reduced with partial drain and refill, so it's not much better of a solution.
Stick with liquid chlorine, or get a salt generator. Those are the two best solutions. I took over my pool care from a pool guy 5 years ago and haven't had a single algae outbreak using these methods. The only other thing I add to my pool is muriatic acid to lower the pH when it climbs near 8.0. That's it!!!
Yep. This makes sense to me!
Which brand name of liquid Chlorine do you use? Is it basically shock? Thanks for the tip!
@@brendaannan5154 You can use anything from the big box stores like Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes. They are usually 10% strength and generally run around $7 to $9 for a case of 2 gallons. Liquid shock is the same thing. Just make sure you check the dates on the bottles or cases. Avoid anything over 2 months old because the chlorine will start degrading over time. Don't get fooled by the name. It's all marketing. Shock is something you do to your pool, not something you add. They are all just chlorine. Some in hard form (like granules, tablets) and the rest liquid.
@@Paggy6668 every couple of days you add a little bit of liquid shock in small amounts around the perimeter of the pool and you don’t use any tablets? This keeps the cyanuric acid level down and prevents algae? How much liquid chlorine do you use and how often? It must be a small amount the night before. If it’s better I would like to try this method. Thank you again.
@@brendaannan5154 My 20K gallon pool requires around 25 oz of 10% liquid chlorine to raise the FC (free chlorine) level by 1ppm. Most sanitized pools generally use 2 to 4ppm of chlorine daily during the swim season, so you have to replace that chlorine to keep the pool clean and sanitized. So for me, I would generally add 50 to 75oz of 10% liquid chlorine DAILY. It doesn't really matter when you add it, you just have to replace what you're losing daily to the sun. If you just can't stand the daily additions, you could go with a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) and that will produce the chlorine for you. I decided to get one last year as the pandemic was starting and it has made my pool care so much easier. I check my chlorine and pH levels around once a week now because the SWG does all the work for me. I just set the output % and verify with my testing that the FC is staying steady in the pool. If it's a little low, I up the %. No more lugging boxes of liquid chlorine from the store, no more having to add it manually daily. It's very convenient and it's especially nice if I want to go anywhere for a couple of days or longer. No need to find someone to add chlorine for me. The SWG does it for me. They aren't cheap though, and the prices have really gone up this year.
I have a problem, I can not get my free chlorine level up and my other chlorine level up as well. I have put 2 bags of shock in at one time and still have trouble. I have the pucks in the floater and even add liquid chlorine. I have been putting in baking soda and my PH is OK. I have even started to add the canard acid to be that up. I Need Help. I have been using test strips. May be those test stpips are bad. That free chlorine got me stumped. Please let me know.
Stanley Keith I’m having an issue too. Newbie here. I didn’t know that my pool was 27k gal and therefore needed 3 packs! Now my CYA is too low still and the pool store saying pucks will be fine (I’m at 5 CYA). Heading to the pool store.
what if your cya is high and you use stabilized chlorine..just dilute the water?
I have a floating chlorine dispenser so Is it safe to swim while its in use?
Yes. Everyone does that. Just make sure the chlorine levels aren't not high
So which should you use if your town water has high CYA naturally? We filled the pool yesterday and tested today the chlorine level was white (which didn’t even register on the strip color) but the CYA was 80. Thanks
Same problem and cannot get a straight answer from anyone.
Is liquid shock effective as the bag???
Does'nt putting tabs directly in the skimmer can mess up your equipment
Yes, it can. When the pump turns off, those pucks are sitting in the skimmer and and the water around them becomes very concentrated with chlorine. Then your pump turns on in the morning, and guess what, that concentrated chlorine goes to your equipment and can deteriorate o-rings and rubber gaskets prematurely.
So happy I found your channel super informative and exactly what you need to about taking care of the pool yourself!!!
First time pool owner and first time iv ever opened a pool. Couldn’t have done it with out you. Thanks bro. Killer channel
I have a LOT of cyanuric acid in my pool. Well over 100 ppm. How could/did that happen? Thank you for your videos!
From adding chlorine stabilizer or stabilized chlorine tablets. Just drain the pool a little bit and add fresh water to bring it down.
First of all is your pool safe to swim?
Completely safe.
What is 100 ppm
Probably need to drain half the pool water.
I’ve been using dichloro shock and trichloro tablets. Can I keep using trichloro tablets and use calcium hypochlorite shock?
*my question is, i live at north I use HTH shock for my pool, now with the weather going up and down when I check my pool reads no chlorine is the cold weather eating the chlorine or why I'm reading no chlorine? Please help* 🙄
How do you get chlorine or rather how do you get allergy out of a pool
Matt have a question salt pool 21k gallons I shocked last nite at 15ppm used 8.25% Clorox bleach what's your thoughts on ppm when shocking this amount of gallons weekly ????
I have a saltwater pool with salt cell to generate chlorine. I've noticed my total chlorine is always high (like 10ppm) while active chlorine is always low (0.5-1.0 ppm). I've added dichlor shock, and I see total chlorine keeps at the 10 ppm level, instead of balancing it. I've tried to increase my chlorine production in my salt cell, and still total chlorine is high, but active is low. Do you have any advice? Thanks!
I balance my pool with a Taylor CK - 2005 test kit about 2 months ago. Recently the past week my free chlorine has been registering over 10 ppm. I turned off the automatic chlorinator for the past week and the free chlorine does not seem to have lowered at all when testing daily. I use stabilized chlorine pucks and wondering whether that may be causing an issue. Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
I have never added pure CYA to my pool . Only the micro dosing from the floaters . But some how i have excessive stabilizer when testing . Cant afford to dump large amounts of water due to being in a water scarce region . Is it possible the the micro dosing from the floaters builds up to high levels over time ?
My understanding is CYA does not decrease on its own. I’m currently draining my pool bc of this.
I was having to change my pool water every year because it was becoming overstabilized. What I did was drain and refill my pool then use tablets until the stabilizer reached the proper level (50 ppm) and then switched to liquid chlorine that is unstabilized. It's kind of a pain to hustle gallon jugs of chlorine around but my pool water is 3 years old now and it looks and tests great. Your pool water should last 3 to 5 years using this method.
Great review, but which Chlorine tablet do you use if you CYA is 150 ppm, and your hardness is over 800 ppm. This is my case. I know the answer is to drain the pool, but we are under server water restrictions. I do plan to drain the pool, but after we are off water restrictions. I am now using Sodium Hypochlorite liquid for chlorinating my pool. It does not leave extra CYA in the pool, and does not add to my Calcium hardness problem. It is not that expensive.
My fool same if your. I am wait this winter the water restriction off to drain the pool during I have to use more sodium hypochlorite liquid for keep the pool has chlorinated. But the sun burn it very quicker, My pool PH high 8.2 I try to lower ph by pour muriatic acid in but not go anywhere ph still stay the same and my pool start has some yellow algae grow around the wall and step what do you do fix that.
What's it means dyloot the pool water
Which to use first? Is it chlorine first then muriatic acid?
Only way to lower cya is to dilute water? What about a cya reducer?
Be careful with the CYA (stabiliser) … I ended up with readings too high and had to drain the pool
Great info! Just started my above ground pool and the chemistry can be confusing. Your videos *clear a lot of things up ;)
Thanks! And love the puns 😉👍
Just out of curiosity, what would be the rate of "burn off" of chlorine on a regular hot summer day? Speaking of a pool with water and sun, nothing else.
Roughly 1ppm of chlorine is "burned off" by the sun every hour.
Thank you.
Swim University no
@@SwimUniversity no
My first time purchasing a 10 by 30 pool what should you recommend for cleaning products?
I recommend Leslie Pools “NoPhos” down the skimmer to clear up algae. Then I recommend “Perfect Weekly” sold by Leslie Pools. You can purchase online and have it shipped but we live near a Leslie Pool Store. First test for pH and alkalinity. Use an algaecide once a week. Shock once a week. Don’t use too much shock because you will have to wait until the chlorine level is between 1-4 ppm before you can swim. With heavy rain the algae is more apt to grow so you may have to add an additional dose. If you use the Perfect Weekly from Leslie Pools you will have a beautiful, clean pool and less work. On a daily basis you can use chlorine tablets. When you begin the season each year and your pool is green, I highly recommend NoPhos. It kills the phosphates which feed algae. Without phosphates in your pool the algae disappears.
Is calcium hypochlorite the only dry form of unstabilized shock?
Do you have a discount code to buy your book?
what does 3 part per million mean
I juggle stabilized and liquid depending on the levels of stabilizer in the water
My pool is on our rooftop garden, under a shade, will the sun still burn off the pool shock as it's supposed to? Or is it better not to use pool shock for my pool? Thank you!
Matt, should stabilizer be added to a pool with an automatic pool cover?
What can I do to prevent my water from turning yellowish every time a shock my Intex Pool?
I have a problem where my chlorine is never right. The only time it's stability reads ideal is after about 6 hrs -12 hrs after shocking it. Is it ok to shock my pool twice a week to keep the cholorine up. I have 3 chlorine tablets floating at all times. But the level starts low or under. It's only ideal when I shock it. I need help. The pool turns cloudy every few days. Not green just cloudy w no chlorine levels. Any advice anyone
The minute he said "uh.. DUH" i just had to like the vid. Also, great information.
👍
I love Swim University and these videos. Only thing I would say is....wouldn't you want your FC just a little higher if your CYA level is 50 or so? like 4ppm instead of 3ppm?
If I'm wrong feel free to say so.
Thx again for the great videos!
You should be shooting for a 30-50 ppm on cya, anything over 50 will cause lock out on stabilized chlorine and at a 60 you need a 6 to have any active chlorine. Currently they are working on changing suggested cya levels to 8-32 ppm.
Also keep in mind adding cya lowers ph as it has a ph from 3.3 to 4.0, which as it sets in will counter act a shocking treatment. If cya gets to high you out risk to teeth hair bones as well as lowering ability to remove pathogens.
if a pool already has a decent amount of CYA in it, say 50 ppm. wouldn't unstabilized chlorine be protected from CYA regardless? so in that case there's no difference adding stabilized or unstabilized chlorine because there's enough CYA in the water to shield chlorine from the sun. Am I correct?
If you add stabilized chlorine, you are also adding CYA so your CYA will continue to increase. After some time, you are going to need to drain your pool to lower the CYA. So if you are already at 50 CYA, you would want to add unstablized chlorine.
You suggest that a new pool owner should keep Cal hypo and Tri chor both on hand? What happens if they try to mix them? Also why would you put tablets in the skimmer that goes straight to the pump and filter, doesn't it sanitize better going straight to the body of water?
I realize this comment is a year old, but putting the tablets in the skimmer helps distribute it through the pool water more evenly and effectively than a floater. Especially because floaters have the tendency to get caught up on things(i.e.,pool ladder, hoses, corners of pool, etc), therefore not letting the tablets to be distributed across the whole pool of water evenly...Hopefully that makes sense...🤷🏼♀️😂😉
Great video. If you use stablized chlorine, how do you prevent the CYA levels from building up and ultimately becoming too high? Would it not be inevitable?
Dilution is the only way
Yes, it is inevitable. I use tablets sparingly, relying on morning/evening chlorine adjustments using bleach.
I use the pucks sparingly and supplement with liquid chlorine. Since then, have had no problems with elevated CYA levels. Cheers
Great information and great job.
This is an amazing video. Thank u
I just had a new liner put in my in ground pool. I live in Alabama. I can’t seem to get my chlorine level up. I have added 6 bags of shock and 1 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine and still can’t get the chlorine level up. Any suggestions
Ever figure it out? Was your pump running and proper filtration?
@@lrakwons9799 I just changed the sand in the filter. All good now but thanks
I added ph up to my pool and now it’s super cloudy. How do I fix this??
Thank you
it should be cloudy right after you add it, if it stays cloudy after a few hours then you need to test your water, your ph may be too high
In the UK. We have stabilised chlorine in a powder. What's the best of using this? Apply in the morning?
Question - When I add unstabilized chlorine in the evening and it works its magic overnight, how quickly does it burn off the next day when the sun starts to hit the water?
Roughly 1ppm every hour in the sun.
This is just my opinion, but I think it will burn off more quickly if you live in Arizona and Florida. If you live in New England it could take longer because the sun is less intense the further away you go from the equator. I’m not an expert.
@@brendaannan5154 Makes sense. I am in Texas so I get what you are saying.
@@TimLewallen you must have a much longer pool season than us New Englanders! It was even shorter this year due to the rain, but we can always use rain, so I will accept this as a shorter season than most.
@@brendaannan5154 Our yard is shaded and the pool is deep so it might be shorter than you are thinking but on average I would assume you are correct.
I'm in south Florida... where it's about to get HOT. I use liquid chlorine /shock from PAP. I also was told to use 2 3" tablets to float (they have stabilizer 4 in 1) a week. Does this make sense or is it excessive? (10,000 gal pool non salt)
Why does my pool frog test strip say ideal ppm is 150ppm for total hardness? Is it because with pool frog the ideal chlorine level is .5 to 1 ppm?
Love yóur videos just wondering if liquid chlorine is something you use or could use in place of tablets?
I use a solar copper ionizer and in 10,000gal i put about half a gallon in twice a week and it’s fine according to the pool guy but only bc the copper. I really don’t want cyanuric acid in my pool.
Great breakdown of the different Chlorine forms and their uses! Question, is a floater (with adjustable vents) a good way chlorinate? I didn't know you could put it in the skimmer basket, is this a good route?
It's an OK way, but I would recommend a chlorinator first, then just using your skimmer basket. Though some folks would say that's a bad idea, I've been doing it for years with no issues. It distributes chlorine more evenly than the floater. I just avoid floaters altogether.
@@SwimUniversity I normally put about 3 pucks in for my floater. Should I drop that down to 1-2 and refill more regularly if I were to use the skimmer basket?
Possibly. Hard to tell. Try it and keep testing it to make sure it's working. The pucks will dissolve faster in the skimmer for sure.
If you have a heater, I would avoid putting in skimmer because that could cause big problems to your exchanger and other internals. Best bet would be an in line tablet feeder. But without a heater, skimmer works great like he said.
If i add the pucks that have stabilizer in them wouldn't the stabilizer levels keep rising each time i added new pucks seeing how the stabilizer doesn't go down unless the water evaporates (you drain the pool)...
Wouldn't stabilizer just keep rising? I'm really confused by this....if one puck provides say 5ppm stabilzer would i not have enough stabilizer until i added around 6 pucks? Then i would keep adding 5ppm every time?
I know this isn't the case but i like to understand how this works
Trying to use the 10% off promo code "VIDEO" and I am unable to.
So my pool has low alk and high cya...I added a crapload of freshwater and still high...they said add non stabilized liquid chlorine.but didn't explain if this is some trick to lower cya....I already hate having a pool ...the info is so unclear everywhere
thats why you hire a pool guy
@@TouchofDepth nope
...super easy once I learned it
i tried adding stabilizer to my pool, its the first brand i tried but it was little hard pieces so i tried to crush them in water and add it once it desolved but i could not get it to disolve so i just added it into the pool thinking maybe it takes a while..well nah it just settled to the bottom so i had to vacuum it all up..did i do something wrong?
Do you still burn off unstabilized chlorinenif you have a solar cover on your pool ?
UV rays can get through some solar covers. And it would only reduce it if you had the cover on the whole time.
Thank you for your videos! I am new a new outdoor owner! For my chlorinator, I have Nature2 Vision Pro Vessel that uses a chlorinator canister. I have the V-Pack Chlorinating Canister that has the tabs inside. The canister label states that it limits chlorine exposure. Every time I test the pool water, my chlorine level is low. Do you know if this could be because of the cartridge? The water looks clear, but I'm just wondering if it is safe to swim even though the reading is low. :)
That system is meant to be low chlorine... I have that too..love iy
Please tell me why every time I shock my pool my water turns yellowish. I was told it´s caused by minerals--primarily iron. How can I prevent this from happening? I would really appreciate it.
You need to use a metal and stain product in a double or triple dose, treat staining with vitamin c, and use a maintenance dose of scale and iron remover if topping off with well.
Basically when you shock, you’re super oxidizing copper or iron and that’s why it’s turning on you. Need to remove the metals before somehow. If your water is that bad you’re gona need in line hose filters for filling.
Your video makes it sound like the straight NaClO doesn't benefit from the separately added Cyanuric Acid. I have found with my heated water (95F) and SoCal UV exposure that I can burn 1 gallon worth of dilute NaClO in 2-3 days even with 40ppm Cyanuric Acid. I've run 2 stabilized tablets at a time and found no improvement in levels. The liquid seems to be the only thing that can keep my free Cl levels in the proper range. I do have rather hard water, and I also usually add about ½ gallon of Muriatic a week to keep the pH 7.5. Should I be using stabilized Cl or is the manually added Cyanuric granules to hold 40-60ppm sufficient with the liquid Cl to get the most bang for the buck out of sanitizer?
Thanks for this information.if my CYA 60ppm i have to keep chorine 3ppm? i tried so many times but in the last algae grow up in pool but after that i keep chlorine at 7ppm and my pool is ok now. Is dangerous for swimmers at 7ppm?
Nah commercial pools are really high all the time it’s fine
Try using “NoPhos”. It lowers phosphate levels in your pool. Algae feeds off of phosphates. Then when your algae clears up you can add “Perfect Weekly” by Leslie Pools. That way you won’t have to use so much chlorine. Your pool will be a clear blue. Of course, balance the pH and alkalinity as much as you can first.
What about a pool that’s largely shaded? Does this affect the number of stable/unstable chlorine I need to add? Will it take longer for it to burn off in the shade?
I also want to know 🙋
My pool over the winter has insane algae. I have shocked it so much over the last week it should be glowing in the dark by now. But I still have algae stuck to the walls and staining. And the stains are more brownish red. Probably coming from the leaves from our trees falling in the pool. What are your suggestions for the algae stuck on the walls and the staining
Get a phosphate test kit and a good phosphate treatment. At 150, algae can't grow. Not sure about stains. Good luck
You may have high cya now . If you do the chlorine won’t be effective
If the water is clear I’d say to balance your chems, get your alk then ph where they should be. If the linear is literally stained green where you can’t get it up from all other methods there’s stuff called stain remover. Have done it for 3 different customers now and have been impressed
Algecide
Can I please ask, you say you can use un-stabilised chlorine to shock pool, and then normal stabilised chlorine to keep the pool sanitised on a daily basis..
I’ve read some websites warning that if you use both un-stabilised and stabilised chlorine in the pool it can explode!?
Is this true??
Not true at all. Although, I definitely would not use stabilized chlorine on a daily basis, only as needed. If the stabilizer level is too high (above 50ppm), you should only be using unstabilized chlorine.
Is bleach stabilized or unstabilized chlorine?