Hi there I hope you are well. Having fun with my singer. I probably have a silly question. Is the foot pedal Power cord supposed to go down toward your feet or come out toward the wall outlet? I am not quite sure how to place my foot on the pedal as it has that little hump before the button that you press with your foot. Thank you
It's a good question, Sandi. I don't think most people use it the way Singer meant it to be used. The cord faces AWAY from your foot. Your heel on the floor and the ball of your foot resting on the right post that is stationary. That right post is called the footrest. When you want to sew you "tilt" or "roll" your foot down on the left button, the one that presses into the controller (pedal) while resting the right side of your foot on the right post. The stationary footrest post is there to prevent you from resting your foot on the movable (control) button while not sewing b/c that will depress it in a little. When the left/movable button is depressed slightly then some current flows into the carbon stack. Not enough to run the motor, but enough to start heating the carbon stack and it can get hot which is bad for it and shortens the life of the carbon stack and can be uncomfortably warm on your foot. Also, when the stack gets very warm/hot you can not control the motor speed as well. So, cord away, your heel on floor and foot on footrest post and slant or roll foot to the left to depress the control movable button to run the motor. Who knew? Thanks for watching my channel.
First, I apologize for this being verbose, but I can't thank you enough for being extremely detailed with all of your videos on restoring this! I was given a Singer 404 from a friend and it was seized in several places. There was no rust or detrimental wear on it anywhere, so going through all of your videos back in 2020 to disassemble, clean and reassemble it with visual and detailed information was a huge help. I probably would have given up and just went and bought a new one. I was able to find a buttonholer and zigzagger attachments for this and I have a lot of pride having followed your videos to get it working properly. Well, almost 3 years later, my 404 is still working great, but on occasion I'll refer back to videos if I've forgotten how to adjust something. It's hard to find info on these older models, so I truly appreciate you keeping them alive!
Hey, no worries. Verbosity is one of my character faults 😀 Thanks very much for saving that machine. If you still have it shows you know what a great machine it is. I appreciate you sharing the story, and happy sewing.
Hi Andy. I have just finished restoring my 404 ($10 at the Goodwill!). Well, almost. I'm pondering whether to put on a third coat of Carnauba wax or not. I watched each video of this series step by step, video by video. You are the best sewing machine instructor possibly in the world, and I'm not just saying that. In the last 2 years since I have discovered your videos, I've gone from being all thumbs, scared to do anything except oil and grease to being able to take apart a machine like the 404, inspect, clean, repair/replace some parts, and reassemble. And, know I still have a lot to learn. A big, big thank you to you.
What a great comment! Wait.. what? $10?? Something good in 2020, how nice 😀 That 404 is such fun to clean. You noticed at 56 videos it is my longest playlist by far. I truly love the model. I remember when you first asked about a machine, and look at you now 👀You've come a long way, baby. You learned just in time for the pandemic, too. Something rewarding to learn and do while being safe at home. I'm sure Roger is supportive and helpful when needed, besides inventing the electric flashlight! Thanks for always being appreciative of my videos and sharing so nicely on my channel. Take care.
Congratulations! A very nice price for a wonderful machine and I'm glad you found the videos too. You know where to find me if anything comes up. Good luck!
Congratulations! It's a wonderful machine to work on. You'll enjoy the craftsmanship and detail it was made with. If any of my videos don't cover something, you can get a free to download copy of the original Service Manual that covers everything at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It covers models 401A, 403A & 404. Besides that, you know where to find me now. Good luck to you, Tim.
Hey Andy! Mary in MA here. I APPRECIATE YOU!!! 😊 I 1st watched your 404 KK shower video very doubtful that I would attempt what Shelley did! I bought a 403 off ebay, it arrived in nice shape other than the seller didn't secure it inside the broken case cover w/o the bottom- sadly scratched the paint, but I got over it. THEN! d/t your rave of the 404 I found myself on Craigslist last week and bought a 404 one town away within the hour, came w/ bells and whistles, even the old zig zag attachment. I thought it was full of old varnished grease inside and bought KK, Tri flow duo, long thin screwdriver and dismantled this little grub and followed your videos throughout the process! The varnish was nicotine and washed magically away. Like Shelley said, I felt that feeling of accomplishment too! I started quilting class last week and the instructor asked me what machine I have and when I told her, I saw her eyes glazing over, not thrilled. She asked me if my needle drops down auto. when I stop... No, I said but I can do that myself. I Love these machines! I have you to thank for it! I opened the 404 motor as it hasn't got pep to move, just tries, but too tired; but it all looked clean inside so bought one on ebay. Now I have 2 questions for you: you mentioned in the 301 motor video that 400 series is compatible with the 500 series? Could I really use a 500 series motor for a 400 series if I need it? And would you recommend me working through the 404 motor that I have or does it sound like it's shot? It just makes beginnings sounds, but wheel doesn't turn! Thank you for spending all that time with me while I repeated your videos...to see..."What did he just do there?" It was like having you there with me and I giggled at your jokes and thanked you for saying, " I knew you could do it!" Your so generous🌻. - Mary
Thanks very much, Mary, and thank you for saving a vintage machine. You've been a busy lady, haven't you? Before I continue, I had to laugh at the quilting lady who was smug about the 404 not having auto-lift. I wonder what she thinks about the millions of quilts worldwide that were sewn by hand with needle and thread, let alone an electronic, auto-lift machine. Anyway, I'd like to discuss this with you before you go farther along, but it's up to you. My email is andytube@gmail.com if you'd like to contact me. I want to explain why I don't think you have a motor problem and offer some suggestions for troubleshooting and repair. Waiting ...
I'm glad you found my channel then. I've never seen a "G" version in person but a view viewers have sent pictures. If you care to have a copy of the service manual it is free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf You know where to find me if you hit a snag. Thanks for saving that machine and good luck.
Andy, hope you are well. Not sure if I found a 404 or the 404 found me. But I have a new restoration project and I know how you love this workhorse model. This is my second 404 and I will again use you as my incredible teacher and supporter via UA-cam. She was $27, so I just have to try and save her. Such a great machine. ❤
Joyce, at $27 who could resist? I'm guessing the machine found you knowing the loving care it would receive 😊 You may still have the Model 404 documents I sent you in June 2022. If not then let me know. I appreciate your kind words and that you are saving another machine. Have a happy restoration and take care.
Hi Andy, if you're around. I finished my Singer 404 restoration and no problems. The old girl was just really dirty and dry. The tension unit take up spring was badly bent and I ordered a new one from Central Michigan Sewing Supplies. I went through the controller and there was a couple of things in there. The screw that holds the carbon pile bracket on one of the piles had backed out half way so I caught that. I checked the carbons and I had 4 that were a little burned and changed them out. One side was short one carbon so I had some extras and added a good one. The commutator on the motor was excellent so I just took one of those seating stones and lightly cleaned it. The machine runs quiet. The foot controller warms a little when not in use so I've got to go back in there. I couldn't have done it without your wonderful videos. Everything is completely covered. All I can say now is THANK YOU!
Congratulations Ralph. You're getting to be a real old pro at this. I'm happy it has turned out so well since you bought it online. It doesn't always work that way, but I think you knew what the look for in the pictures. I couldn't be happier for you. It just sounds like a marvelous machine. Makes me want to go find one myself and do it again even though I probably done 15 or 20 of this model. Happy happy for you
You're in for a good time, Ralph. My favorite Singer Heavy Duty Straight Stitch Sewing Machine. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. If you'd like a free copy of the entire model 404 parts list with numbers and pictures you can find it here: www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/nijears4.pdf This helped me when I needed to find replacement parts. Thanks for watching my channel, and for saving another machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 I've got one coming Andy. Thanks. I've been sewing really heavy cordura and have had a lot of trouble trying to help the 503 along with the hand wheel and the hand wheel coming unclutched and having to reset it all the time. I think the pinned handwheel is the way to go. I'll hang on to my 503 for the lighter stuff and the different stitches. Thanks much!
Learned to sew on my Mom's Singer 404... which I still have. This 404 Series should be helpful in guiding me to a much needed clean 'er up session. thank you ANDY Tube!
What a nice family heirloom. This series can guide you through a complete restoration if needed, or however much you choose to do. Thank you for watching Andy Tube and good luck Nancy.
I posted a comment below earlier. I decided to troubleshoot and oh my gosh, I did it. Thank you so very much for taking the time to post this video. I am so excited to use this machine. Thank you
Bought a 404 at Goodwill yesterday for $6.99, I will be watching all of your 404 series to get it cleaned up, it is pretty dirty but motor still works and sounds good!
Best price ever! There is dirty and there is dirty. Don't be discouraged by a dirty machine just think of how it will be after cleaning. If it gets tough on you just watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/v-deo.html See? You can do this and it will be very rewarding. Good luck, and congratulations on a super price.
Thanks for your videos, Andy. I have just picked up a Singer 404 from a lady who is downsizing. This machine is so pretty and the knee lever/foot pedal is so clever. I'm excited to get it to run well. It has a problem with tension so I have to figure out how to fix that. I've only done to the extent of oiling my other sewing machine and nothing more. You got me interested in cleaning/restoring this machine myself though. You have plenty of videos I have to go through before I decide on actually doing it, but I'm really excited. I just need to tackle it one thing at a time to prevent myself from being overwhelmed. Wish me luck!
Thanks for watching my channel, Angel. It can seem overwhelming if you've never worked on a machine like this. I advise folks to skip removing any parts that seem too difficult. You can clean almost the whole machine with the parts in place if you don't mind the time it takes. My 404 restore Playlist has the 56 videos: ua-cam.com/users/playlistlist=PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Some of those videos are about the tension unit. They got so popular I put them in another separate playlist for people who just wanted to fix their tension: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html Some machines have been well maintained and a gentle cleaning, proper oiling, and seating the motor brushes are all they need. If you'd like a copy of the original Instruction Manual (includes oiling) it is free from Singer: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 Just click on the 404 slant needle machine. I made a video about reseating the carbon brushes on the motor with a $10 stone. It cleans the commutator and seats the brushes at the same time. ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html One step at a time is a good way to go and I always took pictures before I removed parts si I could remember how they went back on the machine, haha. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You are so generous. I hope it comes back to you a hundred-fold. I’ll definitely watch your videos first before I do anything on my machine, focusing on the playlist you mentioned. Thanks again.
Hi Andy, I took apart (all except wiring),cleaned, oiled, greased and put back my Singer 401A with the help of these videos. Thank you SO much! You talked not only about the 'how' but the 'why' which was awesome! thank you :)
That's an impressive bit of restoration, Daisy! Nicely done. ✨ If you can work like that on a 401A, you can do any vintage machine Singer made. Care for one last tip? A newer method for cleaning the motor commutator and speeding the motor up. ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html Thanks for sharing your experience on my channel. Take care.
Thanks for this. I just recently got a 401a at my local Goodwill, and am going Sunday to pick up a 404 (for$25!) Love these machines. I have the 401 running as smooth as a Swiss watch, but I'm sure you'll have some tips in this series that will help me do a better job. Keep them coming.
Thanks, Lynn! $25 is a great price for a 404. Best straight stitch machine, IMO. All heavy duty, no camstack, and same motor & gearing as the 401A. Strong, smooth & quieter. You will love it.
I got the 401a with table and matching bench for $30 at Goodwill! Looked like it had been used about twice. I couldn't believe it! I make camping gear with my machines. Hammocks, etc. Love the slant shank for ease of viewing the work! I cant wait to get to work on the 404. It looks like it needs some real TLC!
Oh man, you find the best bargains. The 404 is perfect fo the type of craft sewing you are doing. Once cleaned, tuned and lubed the 404 can run well for decades. I'm excited for you to try it and hope to hear your opinion of it in the future.
It is amazing the bargains my viewers find! I always feel somewhat jealous, lol. At those prices, even if you need to buy a few parts, you still have a very good buy there. Congrats!
Thank you so much I am starting with your help to try retire a Singer 411 I just bought. You gave me the confidence to do so and I really enjoy it. Let's see at the end if it's a success but anyway I pretty much enjoy it and you structure is so smart. It just flows thank you again
Very welcome and good luck. Tu peux le faire! Pas de soucis. Juste un pas à la fois. Vous serez heureux d'utiliser une machine propre. Bonne chance et merci d'avoir regardé ma chaîne.
@@andytubesewing1953 Merci beaucoup waw French and all. Thank you for your reply I am really taking it one step at the time busy with the nose right now based on your other playlist. I will follow step by step and will send you pics if I manage😁 . You are really doing something good helping people giving a new life to those exceptional old ladies
Sure, I do wish you good luck, but it is 90% your desire and determination. My videos can help with the other 10% 😀 You know I am here if you run into a problem. Take care, Ginny, and thanks for watching my channel.
congratulations you have a wonderful machine that can last decades longer there are about 40 more videos in this series that will tell you everything you like to know about the model 404 thanks for watching my channel and leaving a nice comment
I love your video! Do you know what attachments go with this machine? I would like to find them. Found some on Ebay but all are different. One set has a zigzag attachment but I don't think that is for the 404. I am hoping to find a complete set.
If you follow this link you can download a free copy of the original 60-page instruction manual which includes directions for the included attachments and shows some "Fashion Aids" for the 404 including an "automatic zigzagger" and an "automatic buttonholer" among others. Original vintage attachments can be found on eBay and Bonanza, (and other places too) often in their original boxes. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have a unique protect. You have a viewer that disassembled her machine and now we have it in labeled bags. lol. I love that it is your favorite machine because now I have 2 reasons to make sure I succeed. This we be an adventure and a chance to make a new friend here and spend some time with and old friend that I adore. I have watched many tech videos in my time but none as thorough and kind as yours. It is truly an honor to learn from a master on his favorite machine. This has turned into a wonderful gift to me. I'll make the 404 live again for all of us I am impressed with it too....well at least it's parts at the moment. It's a little tank...isn't it? Thank you for passing on the knowledge with such a good heart... I feel like a kid again!
@@elfkind5590 Parts in bags sure is familiar to me! I'm glad you'll be getting your machine back in service and know you can do it no worries. Yes, a little tank is a good description of it. When I restored a model 404 for the first time I was impressed with its build strength. Then I reviewed the history of it and found it was designed for home ec classes and sold to many high schools around the country for students to learn. Singer wanted a machine that would be easy to use and maintain and could take the abuse of multiple kids handling it each day. My wife very much prefers the 301A due to its hook/bobbin location, but I do favor the front, drop-in bobbin system, and stronger motor on the 404. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 My tension stud set screw is really stuck. Even an ultra sonic bath didn't loosen it. Set screw slot has butterfly pattern instead of slot. I prefer not to drill it but not afraid too. Is there any magic you know of sir? Thermal shock? maybe?
@@elfkind5590 Here is how I approach that. Unless the stud is ruined beyond repair I just leave it in place. I've done that many times. You just need to remember it is sticking out the side of the nose so you don't bump it on something and bend it. Go ahead and remove all the parts off of the stud. If you have not done that before here is my video for disassembly: ua-cam.com/video/wFBZw5hQ-3k/v-deo.html The butterfly pattern could be the head has been damaged during removal attempts, or someone has replaced the set screw before with a self-tapping screw that damaged the original thread. I don't mess with it. If the stud is secure I leave it and move on.
Wow, what wonderful videos! I own my grandmother's 404 and I need to clean it up. First thing I learned is that my bed cover plate is missing. Do I need one to keep the machine running smoothly once I get it back in good working condition?
Thank you, Elizabeth. So nice that you have your g-mothers machine. The machine will work perfectly without the bed cover plate as far as the mechanical aspect. The plate is to prevent oil and grease from falling onto your floor, table, or sewing bench. You can find them sometimes on eBay. In the meantime, you can even cut a piece of cardboard or thin wood to fit and keep the bottom covered. If you have kids or pets around, and the machine will be in a cabinet, please do use something to cover the bottom. There are lots of moving parts there, the gears are sharp and they get hot. Model 404 was also sold in a carry case that included a plastic bottom and many people just used that bottom case part as a bed cover plate. You can see a picture of the carry case here: www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/original-pc-carrying-case-singer-401a-481367172 A video I'd like to mention is about an easy, quick way to clean the motor commutator and speed up the motor, ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html Finally, one of my latest videos is about cleaning a 404 without taking all the parts off. It's a very long video, but on the timeline, I have markers with the starting times for each section. ua-cam.com/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/v-deo.html Can you tell that model 404 is my favorite straight stitch machine? Thanks so much for watching my channel and thanks for saving your Grandmother's wonderful machine. Take care.
After my surgery, I watched the entire series for the first time. Usually, I just scan through the videos during editing. It made me kind of miss Jake. A really great machine. But now Jake will have a sibling? You will enjoy this restoration. I think you will find the horizontal rotary hook interesting compared to the vertical hook of the 301A you did. Enjoy!
Hi Andy, hope all is well with you. Andy, I am trying to get a Singer 319W back to working condition (thank you for the manual!). I removed and cleaned all the parts that I was brave enough to. I put the balance wheel back, put the washer in exactly the same position as I found, put the stop motion wheel on, and tightened the set screw ensuring that is is not resting on one of the elevated buttons. When I loosen the stop motion wheel as you would for bobbin winding, I can feel the set screw bumping against the elevated buttons on the washer and stop. When I tighten the stop motion wheel clock wise as if for sewing, the needle bar does not move. When i gently wiggle the balance wheel back and fort, I see the arm shaft and the needle bar move but not all the way. It feels like the arm shaft is also stuck between two elevated buttons on the washer because that is how much it moves - just a fraction. I changed the position of the washer but with same result. I am not sure if the needle bar was moving up and down before I started working on it. I was hoping to get the insides moving a bit so that I can clean/ oil them. What am I doing wrong? I checked the manual and your videos and I assembled the balance wheel correctly. thank you Andy. Stay safe. Daisy
I don't think you are doing anything wrong as far as the handwheel parts are concerned. If you want to verify that you can just remove the handwheel and turn the arm shaft by grabbing it at the end and turning it. I'm thinking it is going to stop the same way as when the handwheel is attached. There are so many moving parts on a sewing machine, and they mostly all move at the same time. If any single part is stuck or blocked then nothing can move. You think it may be the handwheel or stop motion clamp but that's just because it's the normal place to turn the shafts. Your machine is more complicated than most, with all its "typewriter keys" that move levers and followers inside to sew a pattern. Many moving parts there. It also has a cleated drive belt from the top to the bottom of the machine. The thing is if the hook was blocked from a tangled thread, or a broken needle piece, or the takeup lever was bent, or the needle bar was blocked by dried oil in the bushing, or a piece of the drive belt was caught on something, or you have the bobbin case installed wrong and it's off the race, well... you get the point. Any of those things can cause a machine not to turn on the arm shaft. One way I approach this is to get the instruction manual for the machine, www.singer.com/search/support?title=319 If possible I try to put all the levers in position for the simplest stitch which is usually straight stitch number 12 or medium length. Now I carefully follow the oiling instructions in it to thoroughly oil all the points it says to. On your model, there are about 50 oil points. Once that is done I use a hairdryer to heat up the machine, pausing at all those oil points to get them good and warm. This can take a long time. Heat, try to turn, let sit, heat, try to turn, let sit... This process is just to see if the problem is dried up oil in any of the moving parts, especially the shaft bushings that support the shafts. Over the decades a lot of oil can be put into a machine and it is seldom washed out or degreased. Now let that oil sit there for a year, or years, or decades and dry out and turn as hard as dried varnish. If this does not get the machine moving then I start taking parts off to see if that was the cause of not moving. Patience is the key to the oiling and heating method. It can take from 5 minutes to several hours, or overnight and more the next day. Some people use kerosene instead of the oil and skip the hairdryer. They believe the solvent works faster and better to get the old gunk out, then wipe up as much as they can with rags and apply fresh oil. I've never tried it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for this detailed reply. you are correct, nothing moved with the hand wheel off either - when I tried to turn just the arm shaft without the hand wheel. This machine has been in heat and humidity for years! I was scared to take out the type writer cams but I may not have a choice. I will try the oil and heat method (don't like kerosene!). If that does not work, will try removing parts. It has no bobbin, just the case and that seems to be clean. Will keep you posted. Yes, patience!! Thank you Andy. Stay safe. Daisy.
@@daisymay6290 Good luck. I don't care for using the kerosene either. I use Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser and wash the whole machine in the shower and dry with a leaf blower. 👀 ua-cam.com/video/SXn57XzNiRQ/v-deo.html I usually remove a lot of parts but viewers have told me they tried it with most of the parts still on the machine, minus the motor. You can try the method I suggested with oil and heat. You did not mention anything about rust so I did not ask about it. Rust removers work better when there is no oil/grease on the metal. I have injected the KK into the oil points before washing. Hope things get moving for you. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy :) luckily there is minimal rust on the machine. I saw your series on restoring Singer 404 (loved it!) and saw how you washed the machine in the bath tub :) After watching those videos, I also use KrudKutter for cleaning the parts. Here is an update on the 319 on why the hand wheel was not doing a full rotation: - I found that the 'bobbin case holder position bracket' which is like a long finger with a slightly bent/ curved tip is the issue; it is screwed in and supposed to hold the bobbin case?. - That tip was placed in a grove in the bobbin holder. The tip of the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’ was hitting the sides of the grove on the bobbin holder preventing the hand wheel from turning a full circle. I moved the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’ out of the grove, screwed it in a little away from the bobbin holder, oiled the machine per manual and it seems to be moving smoothly. Have not put the motor back in to fully check it but at least it’s moving. What is the correct position for the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’? I could not find it in the manuals for 319 or 306. I wanted to tell you this piece of good news and say thank you for the detailed replies and your encouragement. Thank you!! Hopefully more good news tomorrow (smile) - Daisy
@@daisymay6290 I'm glad you found the "one thing" that was causing the problem. To me, it appears the service manual for model 319 shows a thread clearance setting between the position finger and bobbin case base of .020 inch, with a tolerance of .002 inch, so anywhere between .019 and .022 should work. I'm seeing that on page 111 of the service manual I have.
I just acquired a Model 403a, it came with its original cabinet for $55. I also have 2 503's, and I am hoping that with this video series I can explore the innards of the machines myself. I've had no luck with finding someone knowledgeable to do the work.
Hi, Roberta. I think the series will be worth your time. The only differences with the 403 & 503 are the camstack & swing needle. If you go to this site you can download a FREE copy of the original service manual for the 500/503 model. It has sections on remove/replace the parts I don't cover on the straight stitch only model 404. Between my series and the service manual I think you will be able to get the machines running & sewing very well. Good Luck, and contact me if you hit a roadblock. Here is th link: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/
Andy Tube gosh I didn't really expect to hear from you. Thanks for your kind remarks and I very well may reach out to you. I peeked into the 400 manual and it says to remove the motor and wiring harness and soak the whole machine in Varsol (which I take to be some kind of solvent). Do you do that?
I have never used Varsol. It is a volatile organic compound, petrol chemical with hydro carbons. You may know it as paint thinner, white spirits or turpentine. It was hugely popular with Singer repairmen who would soak a dirty machine in it, even overnight. If you look through my series on the 404 you will see I use Krud Kutter to remove the old oil & grease in about 10 minutes. Just be careful with the painted finishes as it can dull them. I would never use the Krud Kutter on any Black Singer Finish.
hI Andy. After oiling greasing and threding thanks to you I have started to sew. The motor growls and sporadically doesn't run. Have you a video on servicing the motor or is it time to buy new?
Check out this playlist for motor repair ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html&feature=shared. I'm not sure about the growling you mentioned, but it might be the top bearing where the motor shaft comes through. Just below the pinion gear for the hand wheel
Great video. Thanks so much. I have had this machine a couple of years and finally am getting it going. I may have done something to the throat plate lever. It was seized up so I oiled it and would move but not all the way to the left. The two silver caps look like they want to move on the throat plate but don’t. Could I have stripped something? Either way it still sews great and don’t foresee that I will really need to use the lever. I have a singer curvy but actually like how this sews better and much easier to thread. Why must we always upgrade! Haha. I love the vintage feel. Thanks again and look forward to your channel.
Hi, Sandi. The parts of this assembly are strong and I doubt you "stripped" something. The pins are likely "glued" into the tubes they sit in by dried varnished oil. It usually better to take them from the bottom of the machine. Here is one of my videos about repairn the whole assembly. ua-cam.com/video/n1LSM-BZw9k/v-deo.html This video you comment on is one of 56 in my restoration playlist. I've had emails from hundreds of people who have repair, fixed, cleaned, adjusted and even fully restored their machine from watching these videos. It's always a bad idea to force any part on a vintage machine b/c some of them can bend and break. If you try oiling something like that in the future try heating it up after applying oil. I use a hairdryer. Sometimes 2 minutes and sometimes 30. It can help soften that gunk and let the fresh oil in and get parts moving a little. It can get a little messing, but oil cleans right off with a soft rag, like old t-shirt. (Esp. the one of his you want to get rid of👀😉Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I like watching your videos. They are very detailed and easy to follow. I just got a singer 403a and want to clean it and get it up and running. When trying to pull the bobbin thread up with the needle it is not working right. It is gathering the thread and bunching it up. Then if you try and sew it puts a lot of thread on the first stitch and then none at all. Any suggestions? Thank you, David
Hi, David! If the needle thread will not pull up the bobbin thread it may be the hook to needle timing is off. The first thing to do is a good cleaning. Remove the slide plate, needle plate, bobbin & bobbin case. Then clean the throat area of all lint and dirt, oil the race and reassemble. Clean out the upper tension unit with a brush or canned air. It is surprising how a small amount of lint or dirt can mess up the stitch forming process. In my next video, I show how to remove all the parts in the bobbin area. You can also go here to get a free copy of the instruction manual. Just enter 404 in the search box: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals Look that over to be sure you run the upper thread properly and the bobbin & bobbin case is correctly threaded. Sounds like the upper tension may be a problem. Since the 403A has all metal hook gearing it is unusual for the timing to be off.
Two questions Andy: What is the brand of the hollow ground screwdriver set that you use and what do you use to loosen the really hard varnish between the top cover and the arm? The varnish seems impervious to WD-40, alcohol and mineral spirits. It doesn't affect function, but if I'm going to all this effort to restore, I'd like to do the best job possible. Thanks for all your effort, really enjoy your channel and this series.
I thought you would be asking some hard questions, haha. In April 2017 I researched hollow-ground screwdrivers after a comment about them from a viewer. I bought a 9600 Starter set from Chapman MFG, made in the USA. I love it, especially the little mini-rachet. I made a video about the set: ua-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/v-deo.html Here is the MFG web page about them: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set In June of 2019 a viewer, machine restorer and friend recommended another set of screwdrivers Made by Wheeler and I bought it. Here is a video about them: ua-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/v-deo.html Here is where I bought it: www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/wrenches-and-screwdrivers/43-piece-professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set/954621.html I use both sets now, and some parts are interchangeable. If you only buy one I'd go for the chapman just to get the mini-rachet as you can buy additional bits anytime you like. You can torque that little rachet and get some stubborn screws out very well with it. Varnished oil can be very difficult. My go-to cleaner for the machines is Krud Kutter Original Cleaner & Degreaser by Rustoleum. I found it by chance as I was always looking for something better that was earth-friendly, low VOC, zero odor (I live in a small condo without a workshop or garage). On the internal parts, I will pretreat them will up to 100% solution. On painted surfaces about a 15 to 25% solution with a quick rinse as it will dull paint if left on too long or used in a strong concentration. Here is their web page about it. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter I bought a $5 spray bottle and buy the KK by the gallon at Home Depot and hardware stores around town. Price varies from 12 to $15 and I see it online shopping now also. I buy these soft-scrub kitchen type sponges at the dollar store, like 2 for $1.00 and they have the soft nylon "scrubby" on one side. I like them because the sponge is foam type, not cellulose, and they rinse really clean. For those tough edges like you are talking about I might tip a little on the scrubby and rub the top edge all around, followed behind by a wet terry cloth to get the gunk and KK off before it dulls the paint. I have made many videos of cleaning parts and giving the whole machine a "Shower" by spraying on the KK solution, scrub a little, rinse off with a hose or handheld shower, dry with a leaf blower or hairdryer and then oil the machine immediately. If I get a little flash rust during that process I use Rustoleum "The Must for Rust" and it wipes right off. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor/ It's about 6 or $7 an 8-ounce bottle around town and goes a long way. Very easy to use with a slightly funky smell. If you have not seen any of my cleaning videos, this was the first time I filmed using the KK on a machine back in 2016. I don't do it on the patio andy more, but I bought a handheld shower and wash it right in my bathtub/shower inside. I scared my wife the first time, but then she saw how I clean the tub with it: ua-cam.com/video/d6juEKFj790/v-deo.html
Andy I know this is off topic, but would you have any hints on where I should look for a repair manual for my Riccar 9800 electronic? I have searched and searched but can't find anything. I am having upper tension problems Thanks Pat
I've never seen a digital copy for sale. Rarely someone will list a paper copy online. eBay or Bonanza in the USA. You may need to look at sights in the UK or Asia. Just too rare of a repair manual for a seller to digitize and make any money on. Sorry, Pat.
I followed your videos on the 404 to take apart, clean and put back together a non-functioning 404... thank you! I have acquired a 503A which is in very bad shape, dirty, greasy and completely stuck. I managed to free the wheel and motor gear by alcohol, a few drops of triflow, and heat. But now that the wheel turns pretty freely, nothing else engages so I don’t know if it’s a problem that can be easily fixed. I’m wondering if I can follow the videos again for the 404 as it seems much of the assembly seems to be very similar between the two.
"nothing else engages" sounds like the Stop Motion Wheel is disengaged and the machine is in bobbin winding mode. Were you able to turn the inner Stop Motion Wheel of the Handwheel to the right to put the machine into sewing mode? You can download the Instruction Manual for free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Yes, you can follow the 404 videos for many of the parts on a 503A, but the 503A has lots of parts that are different. It has a pattern selector with a lifter and follower for zigzag sewing. The Bobbin Winder System is totally different, just to name a couple of things. FYI, I do have 20+ videos for model 503A in a playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7Uhrq.html Some of them cover what the 404 videos did, but some cover the other parts you will see on your new machine. You can also look at my playlist for model 403A. It has many of the ZZ parts of the 503A too. That playlist is 25+ videos and some may help you if I did not cover it in the 503A playlist. You can find the 403A playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html So, between the 404, 403A, and 503A Playlists, that is 100 videos that cover just about everything you can fix on your machine. Thank you for saving that 404, and you can do the same with the 503A, no worries. I'm happy you found my channel and thanks for watching it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for this guidance! It is not in the bobbin winding mode, but something is not working. It is in pretty poor shape, so I am going to take the route of working through the videos you advised in your reply to me. I think based on taking apart the 404 I will be able to get through this more complicated machine. I really appreciate you pointing me to the videos in the other playlists that I should look at to supplement the 404 videos! I will keep you posted on my progress! Thank you so much for all you do.
Hi Andy, Really useful videos. I have an old 404G13 machine and it's running way too fast. when I press the pedal the machine makes an awful noise (like its getting stuck) then all of a sudden it shoots off and sews uncontrollably fast. Could it be the pedal?
Yes. It could be a lack of oil/grease, but it is usually the condition of the pedal. The pedal works by compressing stacks of carbon resistor discs to allow electricity to flow. When the discs are dirty, broken, missing, or out of adjustment the pedal won't work properly. When you press the pedal only a little electricity is reaching the motor so it "groans" and can not turn enough. As the discs get warmer and finally compress a little you are pressing hard and giving the pedal full power so when it does build up enough in the discs it is making the motor race at full speed. Your pedal is 50 to 60 years old and may have never been cleaned and adjusted. This is why I made the videos. You can try to just turn the adjustment screw and "close the distance" the spring/plunger has to travel to compress the discs, but in my experience, it is better to open the discs, poor them out, and take a look at them for cleaning. You can browse thru the videos at 2x speed to get the idea and determine if this is something you wish to do.
Hey, Neal. Some of the wooden cases have a Swing-Out Metal "Cage" that holds the Accessory Box on the inside left side. You can get a short view of it at 4:48 of this video ua-cam.com/video/wjTIwrxjbuY/v-deo.html Many of the wood cases I've done do not have this so I thought maybe it was an option at the Singer Store? None of the wood cases for the 4xx or 5xx Slant Needle machines had storage for the pedal. None of the plastic cases I've seen for the Slants have anything like it either. I usually put the cord & pedal in a large ziplock-style baggie and rest it on the sewing machine bed between the needle and the upright arm to the right then slide the top cover of the dase down over everything. Sometimes my wife has made a cloth bag with a gathered string opening for me. A friend of mine uses the vintage cloth bags that came with a Chivas Regal whiskey bottle back in the day 😉 Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, Luke again here from Australia. I am pretty excited as I have found a one-owner 404G and it's on the way. It looks very good in the photos and has service history which is rare over here. Anyway, I have a question: I am confused as to what models or buttonholer and monogrammer to use with this machine? I don't want to buy the wrong ones and I am not sure they are the same as the zigzag models. Anyway. thank you again. Oh and PS, I sourced some Krud Kutter products here in Australia and I now have degreaser and Must-for-rust the same as you use. Good times! Luke
Congrats, Luke. I've seen pictures of the 404G and it looks great. Minor differences is all. Here is part 1 of a 2 part video series using a slant-needle buttonholer on model 301A. The red treasure chest it's called. It would also work on the 404 straight-stitch machines. ua-cam.com/video/bVlDzfuiO6A/v-deo.html here is one currently on our eBay site in the US, but you can buy them much cheaper: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/original-singer-slant-needle-buttonholer-fits-models-301-401-403-404-500-503?variant=7958229811230 The Cloth Clamp moves the fabric and that allows this to be used on a straight-stitch machine. Here is the manual (same manual for straight and slant versions) ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/lowshank.pdf As to the Monogrammer Attachment. As far as I know, they only work on a ZZ machine. I hope you like Krud Kutter as much as I do for cleaning the machine and other uses. Best of luck and take care.
I was hoping you could answer a question for me, I recently got a 404 machine and love it ! I ordered these plastic spool pins and they are constantly falling out! I try pushing them in, and screwing them in and they tip and fall.... am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any ideas you might have!
Congratulations on your marvelous model 404! It's not so much you are doing something wrong, just not quite right. These are the pins I use; they fit over 30 models of vintage Singer Machines: shop.sew-classic.com/Spool-Pin-Plastic-Tap-in-Singer-401-403-404-172007.htm If you take a look at this video you will see how I install them. The arm cover pin @ 46:20 of this video ua-cam.com/video/DsLLF0-4Vpo/v-deo.html The pin for the bobbin winder thread spool is @ 103:26 in the same video ua-cam.com/video/DsLLF0-4Vpo/v-deo.html I like to use the rubber mallet but have used a regular metal household hammer too. Maybe this video will help you out, and thanks for watching my channel, Dana.
Hi Andy Tube! I'm having an issue on my Singer 404 Slant Needle sewing machine! I was sewing and my thread got stuck on the thread. My take up lever is stuck and my handwheel is isn't working smoothly. I've come to conclusion I might have broker the driver belt. Where is it in the sewing machine? The motor is working fine.
""... my thread got stuck on the thread."" hehe It can't be a broken driver belt because there are no belts on this model. It's all steel gears. Here is a video about lubricating the machine, you can see inside the top and bottom of the machine and the gears, ua-cam.com/video/raYAkJ0-jic/v-deo.html Here is a restoration playlist for the whole machine: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html A common cause of the machine stopping are thread tangles, like around the bobbin case area. You must use a Class 66 bobbin, the one with curved sides, not flat sides. You must thread the machine properly as shown in the instruction manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 (bottom one of the listed) You can check the thread gap between the bobbin case and the case position bracket. There has to be a certain amount of space there or the thread can get caught. Once one catches, all the rest will catch until it just stops the machine from turning. Here is the video, ua-cam.com/video/OXKqZp87eN4/v-deo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 You are my hero!! I admire your work and the time you took to reply to me with such detail! I was going crazy trying to find a belt! You made me comfortable opening up sewing machine too! I'll get back to work on my mechanic skills lol
I bought the 9600 set: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set Consider the 8900 set too: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/8900-standard-set-12-slotted-bits Here is my review video of the 9600 set: ua-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/v-deo.html These sets come in pink and camo too, plus a black ESD set. Thanks for watchinmg Andy Tube
Awesome video!! Thank you!! I was searching for info on this model and your video was just what I was looking for. I was wondering if you know how to replace the spool pin? Mine has been snapped off. Any information that you can provide would be welcome. Thank you
Thank you, Wendy. For the spool pin on the arm cover, I remove the arm cover and set it upside down on a folded towel. Usually, the end of the spool pin is exposed and I can push it up and out the top of the arm cover. Sometimes it takes using a wood dowel or BBQ stick and tapping with a small hammer or rubber mallet. For the bobbin winding spool pin, you can't always get to the bottom of the pin from underneath. If enough of the pin is left I grab it with pliers and twist and pull it up and out. If there is not enough to use pliers I cut it flush with a tiny saw blade and drill it out using a small wood drill bit. Using a bit smaller than the pin diameter so I don't damage the aluminum base of the machine. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Carolyn, and thank you! I will be doing a number of vids on this 404, so no withdrawals, haha. For sure you will fall in love with the Model 404 after watching. Removing & replacing parts on this can also provide methods for other model numbers too.
I was actually looking at some on ebay a couple weeks ago lol. I like what I see here in your videos. :) Cant wait for the next video on that beautiful machine
Also I can hardly see the numbers on the tension ring on my new to me 404. It’s no longer coloured. Any way I can replace that part? Where to order? Thanks
If you want vintage parts you will need to buy the whole assembly (most times) watch for them on eBay and bonanza; they sell quickly. $15 to $30. You can buy an after-market assembly that works, but you usually need to trim of a little of the stud and pin to fit in your machine correctly: shop.sew-classic.com/Singer-Tension-assembly-Replacement-200-400-series-others-SCT422403-455.htm The numbers are raised from the dial and I have colored them with a paint pen rather than replace the dial. If the numbers themselves have worn off that means the metal has worn away. I have never seen that though.
First thought is the thread is wrapping around the hook and getting caught. Remove the needle thread and remove the bobbin and just run the fabric through without any thread and see if the fabric will feed by the feed dog. Pulling it. If it does then you've got a threading problem. If the fabric still won't go through the machine then you have a feed dog problem and we can go from there
@@lloyd4375 Maybe this is a new machine for you? Many possibilities for thread wrapping. Start with the basics. Thread the needle: ua-cam.com/video/A0IBjNpKHo0/v-deo.html Thread the bobbin case & bring up the bobbin thread: ua-cam.com/video/Tb3nKUrEtGM/v-deo.html Check thread clearance: ua-cam.com/video/OXKqZp87eN4/v-deo.html Of course, be sure you are using the correct bobbin type. Model 404 uses a CLASS 66 Bobbin. It came with plastic ones, but metal can also be used. It has rounded sides, meaning curved like a teacup saucer, not flat-sided bobbins which are too tall and can catch the thread. I go slow in my videos so use 1.5 or higher times speed if desired. Basic steps b/c wrong path of needle thread, or missing the tension discs when threading, or wrong bobbin, or too narrow thread clearance can all cause thread wrapping.
Andy, I was using my 404 the other day after it not have being used for several years and everything was working fine. Today I plugged it in and i have no power to the machine whatsoever, the light does not come on no sounds..nothing . Do you think it could simply be the power cord?
Maybe. Does your 404 have two cords? One the goes from the wall outlet to the receptacle on the machine? It has a wide "plug" with three holes and connects below the handwheel. The second cord has two "prongs" that connect near the base of the machine and comes from the foot controller? So the cord from the wall with three holes is what brings electricity to the machine of course. With only that "power" cord connected the light should be able to turn on and off with the switch, even without the foot controller cord connected. So if you can't even turn on the light, it is possible the cord failed. It is also possible the receptacle prongs on the machine are dirty, especially with verdigris. That's a greenish sticky build up from the brass pins and electricity. While the machine was sitting for several years was the cord still connected to the machine? It's possible the sewing you did warmed up the green stuff and when it cooled it created a barrier that is blocking the electricity from making a connection. Pull the cord and look at the prongs. If they are dirty clean them with alcohol, sandpaper, wire brush, metal polish, something that makes them shine again. The green stuff and dirt could be inside the cords now which makes them unsafe in my opinion. New cords online are $8 to $15. I have also had cords fail right where they go into the plug at either end. The get siff and brittle and then when move the wires inside can separate or break. I am assuming you tested the electical outlet?
Yes, I have two cords. I'm going to clean the prongs like you suggested and if that doesn't help I will buy a new cord. Yes, I did test the outlet. Thanks help Andy i appreciate it. PS I love your videos.
Thank you. I hope you stop by again. My two main sources for cords: shop.sew-classic.com/Singer-Cords_c34.htm www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-404-parts All new cords are black, sigh ....
I just got a 404 that looks beautiful from my Grandpop that passed away but I need help, I'm not sure what's wrong with it but the handwheel won't turn and the needle won't move. If you have any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it 😊
Chances are the machine has been idle for a long time. The oil/grease in the machine, especially the bushings, tends to dry out and get sticky and even hard. All the parts on the machine move together, and if any moving part gets stuck, nothing will move. There are a few other things that can cause a frozen machine, but it is usually the oil situation. You can download a free INstruction Manual from SInger if you do not have the original paper booklet. www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 Starting on page 51 there are directions for where to oil. TriFlow Oil is the best to use on a machine like yours. www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/ You can also use any good quality sewing machine oil. Following the directions in the manual apply generous drops of oil where it says to. Next, warm all those areas with a hairdryer or heat gun. You do not need the highest temps, just warm. The idea here is to dilute and soften the old oil in the machine. This can take time, sometimes hours of letting the oil soak in. I usually oil, then heat for 5 minutes or so and try gently to turn the wheel. Never force the wheel or anything on the machine. If it is still stuck I just let it sit for an hour or so and try again. Still stuck? A little more oil & heat and waiting. I've had the machine free up in 10 minutes and I've had a couple that took 36 to 48 hours. You made this comment on part one of a series of videos that are a step by step tutorial for completely rehabilitating the machine. If that is too much for you, adding fresh oil and wiping up whatever oozes out and getting the machine moving may be all you want/need. At some point, you need to do the grease on the gears. Brush off as much of the old stuff on the gears and add new TriFlow clear synthetic Grease: www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/ Model 404 is my favorite heavy-duty straight stitch Singer sewing machine. It's a wonderful machine to inherit. Congratulations.
@@andytubesewing1953 so i took the nut off the wheel and i tried turning it a couple hours after i put oil on it and the needle moves up and down fine like that but i slipped the wheel on and that won't seem to turn but if i turn the nut that's usually covered on the end of the wheel tge needle will move. Does the wheel maybe need to be replaced?
@@Angcarp19 You don't mention the clamping washer. Here are two videos; one is to remove the handwheel and counterbalance (do not remove the counterbalance) and the other video show how to reinstall the handwheel. I think they may help you to be sure you have all the parts and how to put them on if you do. Of course, if the clamp is missing you'll need to find a used one on eBay. Good Luck. ua-cam.com/video/eZiMaaka5HE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/v-deo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry I'm probably calling stuff the wrong names. I just checked and i have all the parts to the handwheel that you do and they were put on the right way. For some reason the wheel won't move, i feel like it's stuck on something. Wish i could send you a picture of the inside from the top view because i feel like the brown part on the wheel where you put the grease is stuck on some long threaded bolt and I wasn't sure if that piece was supposed to move and it's not so that's what's preventing the wheel from turning. I don't know but I'm gonna try to figyre it out 😁
I stick by my original reply to you that the whole machine is frozen or seized b/c dry oil/lack of fresh oil. It's why I recommended getting he manual and oiling/heating the machine. You are concerned with the motor gear b/c you can see it but I have never had a frozen/seized motor that prevented the handwheel from turning, but I've had dozens of seized machines where nothing turned, including that motor gear/ because all movement comes from the handwheel turning the main arm shaft. All three shafts on the machine have bearings/bushings at each end of them and the oil can dry and act like glue. If any bushing is stuck like that then none of the shafts can move b/c all parts work together at the same time on a sewing machine and if one parts is stuck, none can move.
Hi Daniel, as you face the machine lay it on its back away from you and look at the bottom of the machine on the very left edge like to the left of the bobbin area. You should see the letters and numbers stamped into the metal right near the edge. If that doesn't work let me know. Thanks for watching my channel. Good luck!
Hi there
I hope you are well. Having fun with my singer. I probably have a silly question. Is the foot pedal Power cord supposed to go down toward your feet or come out toward the wall outlet? I am not quite sure how to place my foot on the pedal as it has that little hump before the button that you press with your foot. Thank you
It's a good question, Sandi. I don't think most people use it the way Singer meant it to be used. The cord faces AWAY from your foot. Your heel on the floor and the ball of your foot resting on the right post that is stationary. That right post is called the footrest. When you want to sew you "tilt" or "roll" your foot down on the left button, the one that presses into the controller (pedal) while resting the right side of your foot on the right post. The stationary footrest post is there to prevent you from resting your foot on the movable (control) button while not sewing b/c that will depress it in a little. When the left/movable button is depressed slightly then some current flows into the carbon stack. Not enough to run the motor, but enough to start heating the carbon stack and it can get hot which is bad for it and shortens the life of the carbon stack and can be uncomfortably warm on your foot. Also, when the stack gets very warm/hot you can not control the motor speed as well. So, cord away, your heel on floor and foot on footrest post and slant or roll foot to the left to depress the control movable button to run the motor. Who knew? Thanks for watching my channel.
First, I apologize for this being verbose, but I can't thank you enough for being extremely detailed with all of your videos on restoring this! I was given a Singer 404 from a friend and it was seized in several places. There was no rust or detrimental wear on it anywhere, so going through all of your videos back in 2020 to disassemble, clean and reassemble it with visual and detailed information was a huge help. I probably would have given up and just went and bought a new one. I was able to find a buttonholer and zigzagger attachments for this and I have a lot of pride having followed your videos to get it working properly. Well, almost 3 years later, my 404 is still working great, but on occasion I'll refer back to videos if I've forgotten how to adjust something. It's hard to find info on these older models, so I truly appreciate you keeping them alive!
Hey, no worries. Verbosity is one of my character faults 😀 Thanks very much for saving that machine. If you still have it shows you know what a great machine it is. I appreciate you sharing the story, and happy sewing.
You are amazing and incredibly thorough! Thank you so much for all of the hard work you put into your videos! Fantastic teacher!
Very kind of you to say so I appreciate you watching my channel. Thank you
Hi Andy. I have just finished restoring my 404 ($10 at the Goodwill!). Well, almost. I'm pondering whether to put on a third coat of Carnauba wax or not. I watched each video of this series step by step, video by video. You are the best sewing machine instructor possibly in the world, and I'm not just saying that. In the last 2 years since I have discovered your videos, I've gone from being all thumbs, scared to do anything except oil and grease to being able to take apart a machine like the 404, inspect, clean, repair/replace some parts, and reassemble. And, know I still have a lot to learn. A big, big thank you to you.
What a great comment! Wait.. what? $10?? Something good in 2020, how nice 😀
That 404 is such fun to clean. You noticed at 56 videos it is my longest playlist by far. I truly love the model. I remember when you first asked about a machine, and look at you now 👀You've come a long way, baby. You learned just in time for the pandemic, too. Something rewarding to learn and do while being safe at home. I'm sure Roger is supportive and helpful when needed, besides inventing the electric flashlight! Thanks for always being appreciative of my videos and sharing so nicely on my channel. Take care.
$10!!!!!
I just purchased one today for $50.00 it works however it need a full cleaning. So glad I found your videos!!
Congratulations! A very nice price for a wonderful machine and I'm glad you found the videos too. You know where to find me if anything comes up. Good luck!
Andy, I just purchased a 404 at a thrift shop. I pick it up tomorrow. Looking forward to watching your videos. Thanks for your detailed videos.
Congratulations! It's a wonderful machine to work on. You'll enjoy the craftsmanship and detail it was made with. If any of my videos don't cover something, you can get a free to download copy of the original Service Manual that covers everything at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
It covers models 401A, 403A & 404. Besides that, you know where to find me now. Good luck to you, Tim.
Hey Andy! Mary in MA here. I APPRECIATE YOU!!! 😊 I 1st watched your 404 KK shower video very doubtful that I would attempt what Shelley did! I bought a 403 off ebay, it arrived in nice shape other than the seller didn't secure it inside the broken case cover w/o the bottom- sadly scratched the paint, but I got over it. THEN! d/t your rave of the 404 I found myself on Craigslist last week and bought a 404 one town away within the hour, came w/ bells and whistles, even the old zig zag attachment. I thought it was full of old varnished grease inside and bought KK, Tri flow duo, long thin screwdriver and dismantled this little grub and followed your videos throughout the process! The varnish was nicotine and washed magically away. Like Shelley said, I felt that feeling of accomplishment too! I started quilting class last week and the instructor asked me what machine I have and when I told her, I saw her eyes glazing over, not thrilled. She asked me if my needle drops down auto. when I stop... No, I said but I can do that myself. I Love these machines! I have you to thank for it! I opened the 404 motor as it hasn't got pep to move, just tries, but too tired; but it all looked clean inside so bought one on ebay. Now I have 2 questions for you: you mentioned in the 301 motor video that 400 series is compatible with the 500 series? Could I really use a 500 series motor for a 400 series if I need it? And would you recommend me working through the 404 motor that I have or does it sound like it's shot? It just makes beginnings sounds, but wheel doesn't turn! Thank you for spending all that time with me while I repeated your videos...to see..."What did he just do there?" It was like having you there with me and I giggled at your jokes and thanked you for saying, " I knew you could do it!" Your so generous🌻. - Mary
Thanks very much, Mary, and thank you for saving a vintage machine. You've been a busy lady, haven't you? Before I continue, I had to laugh at the quilting lady who was smug about the 404 not having auto-lift. I wonder what she thinks about the millions of quilts worldwide that were sewn by hand with needle and thread, let alone an electronic, auto-lift machine. Anyway, I'd like to discuss this with you before you go farther along, but it's up to you. My email is andytube@gmail.com if you'd like to contact me. I want to explain why I don't think you have a motor problem and offer some suggestions for troubleshooting and repair. Waiting ...
thank you for this series im just starting to restore a heavily rusted g13 404. its invaluable
I'm glad you found my channel then. I've never seen a "G" version in person but a view viewers have sent pictures. If you care to have a copy of the service manual it is free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
You know where to find me if you hit a snag. Thanks for saving that machine and good luck.
Andy, hope you are well. Not sure if I found a 404 or the 404 found me. But I have a new restoration project and I know how you love this workhorse model. This is my second 404 and I will again use you as my incredible teacher and supporter via UA-cam. She was $27, so I just have to try and save her. Such a great machine. ❤
Joyce, at $27 who could resist? I'm guessing the machine found you knowing the loving care it would receive 😊 You may still have the Model 404 documents I sent you in June 2022. If not then let me know. I appreciate your kind words and that you are saving another machine. Have a happy restoration and take care.
Hi Andy, if you're around. I finished my Singer 404 restoration and no problems. The old girl was just really dirty and dry. The tension unit take up spring was badly bent and I ordered a new one from Central Michigan Sewing Supplies. I went through the controller and there was a couple of things in there. The screw that holds the carbon pile bracket on one of the piles had backed out half way so I caught that. I checked the carbons and I had 4 that were a little burned and changed them out. One side was short one carbon so I had some extras and added a good one. The commutator on the motor was excellent so I just took one of those seating stones and lightly cleaned it. The machine runs quiet. The foot controller warms a little when not in use so I've got to go back in there. I couldn't have done it without your wonderful videos. Everything is completely covered. All I can say now is THANK YOU!
Congratulations Ralph. You're getting to be a real old pro at this. I'm happy it has turned out so well since you bought it online. It doesn't always work that way, but I think you knew what the look for in the pictures. I couldn't be happier for you. It just sounds like a marvelous machine. Makes me want to go find one myself and do it again even though I probably done 15 or 20 of this model. Happy happy for you
Hi Andy, I just bought a 404 off of Ebay. I'm looking forward to giving the ol' girl a good cleaning. Thanks for the comprehensive video series.
You're in for a good time, Ralph. My favorite Singer Heavy Duty Straight Stitch Sewing Machine. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. If you'd like a free copy of the entire model 404 parts list with numbers and pictures you can find it here: www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/nijears4.pdf This helped me when I needed to find replacement parts.
Thanks for watching my channel, and for saving another machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 I've got one coming Andy. Thanks. I've been sewing really heavy cordura and have had a lot of trouble trying to help the 503 along with the hand wheel and the hand wheel coming unclutched and having to reset it all the time. I think the pinned handwheel is the way to go. I'll hang on to my 503 for the lighter stuff and the different stitches. Thanks much!
Learned to sew on my Mom's Singer 404... which I still have. This 404 Series should be helpful in guiding me to a much needed clean 'er up session. thank you ANDY Tube!
What a nice family heirloom. This series can guide you through a complete restoration if needed, or however much you choose to do. Thank you for watching Andy Tube and good luck Nancy.
I posted a comment below earlier. I decided to troubleshoot and oh my gosh, I did it. Thank you so very much for taking the time to post this video. I am so excited to use this machine. Thank you
Glad it helped! You did it! Nicely done and you can fix anything on your machine. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you again. I look forward to watching the series and your other videos as well.
I was using it upside down. How funny! Thank you so much for your quick response and taking the time to post these videos.
You are welcome. Stop by again someday when you have time. Take care.
Bought a 404 at Goodwill yesterday for $6.99, I will be watching all of your 404 series to get it cleaned up, it is pretty dirty but motor still works and sounds good!
Best price ever! There is dirty and there is dirty. Don't be discouraged by a dirty machine just think of how it will be after cleaning. If it gets tough on you just watch this video:
ua-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/v-deo.html
See? You can do this and it will be very rewarding. Good luck, and congratulations on a super price.
Thanks for your videos, Andy. I have just picked up a Singer 404 from a lady who is downsizing. This machine is so pretty and the knee lever/foot pedal is so clever. I'm excited to get it to run well. It has a problem with tension so I have to figure out how to fix that. I've only done to the extent of oiling my other sewing machine and nothing more. You got me interested in cleaning/restoring this machine myself though. You have plenty of videos I have to go through before I decide on actually doing it, but I'm really excited. I just need to tackle it one thing at a time to prevent myself from being overwhelmed. Wish me luck!
Thanks for watching my channel, Angel. It can seem overwhelming if you've never worked on a machine like this. I advise folks to skip removing any parts that seem too difficult. You can clean almost the whole machine with the parts in place if you don't mind the time it takes. My 404 restore Playlist has the 56 videos: ua-cam.com/users/playlistlist=PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Some of those videos are about the tension unit. They got so popular I put them in another separate playlist for people who just wanted to fix their tension:
ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U.html
Some machines have been well maintained and a gentle cleaning, proper oiling, and seating the motor brushes are all they need.
If you'd like a copy of the original Instruction Manual (includes oiling) it is free from Singer: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 Just click on the 404 slant needle machine. I made a video about reseating the carbon brushes on the motor with a $10 stone. It cleans the commutator and seats the brushes at the same time. ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html One step at a time is a good way to go and I always took pictures before I removed parts si I could remember how they went back on the machine, haha. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You are so generous. I hope it comes back to you a hundred-fold. I’ll definitely watch your videos first before I do anything on my machine, focusing on the playlist you mentioned. Thanks again.
Hi Andy, I took apart (all except wiring),cleaned, oiled, greased and put back my Singer 401A with the help of these videos. Thank you SO much! You talked not only about the 'how' but the 'why' which was awesome! thank you :)
That's an impressive bit of restoration, Daisy! Nicely done. ✨ If you can work like that on a 401A, you can do any vintage machine Singer made. Care for one last tip? A newer method for cleaning the motor commutator and speeding the motor up. ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html Thanks for sharing your experience on my channel. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the tip Andy. Yes, this is on my list of things to buy :)
@@daisymay6290 You'll be happy with the results. Thanks again for watching and sharing on my channel. Take care.
Thanks for this. I just recently got a 401a at my local Goodwill, and am going Sunday to pick up a 404 (for$25!) Love these machines. I have the 401 running as smooth as a Swiss watch, but I'm sure you'll have some tips in this series that will help me do a better job. Keep them coming.
Thanks, Lynn! $25 is a great price for a 404. Best straight stitch machine, IMO. All heavy duty, no camstack, and same motor & gearing as the 401A. Strong, smooth & quieter. You will love it.
I got the 401a with table and matching bench for $30 at Goodwill! Looked like it had been used about twice. I couldn't believe it! I make camping gear with my machines. Hammocks, etc. Love the slant shank for ease of viewing the work! I cant wait to get to work on the 404. It looks like it needs some real TLC!
Oh man, you find the best bargains. The 404 is perfect fo the type of craft sewing you are doing. Once cleaned, tuned and lubed the 404 can run well for decades. I'm excited for you to try it and hope to hear your opinion of it in the future.
How is 13.99 for a 301? lol Dont ya just love a bargain?
It is amazing the bargains my viewers find! I always feel somewhat jealous, lol. At those prices, even if you need to buy a few parts, you still have a very good buy there. Congrats!
Thank you so much I am starting with your help to try retire a Singer 411 I just bought. You gave me the confidence to do so and I really enjoy it. Let's see at the end if it's a success but anyway I pretty much enjoy it and you structure is so smart. It just flows thank you again
Very welcome and good luck. Tu peux le faire! Pas de soucis. Juste un pas à la fois. Vous serez heureux d'utiliser une machine propre. Bonne chance et merci d'avoir regardé ma chaîne.
@@andytubesewing1953 Merci beaucoup waw French and all. Thank you for your reply I am really taking it one step at the time busy with the nose right now based on your other playlist. I will follow step by step and will send you pics if I manage😁 . You are really doing something good helping people giving a new life to those exceptional old ladies
@@HelptoFit Good luck, and you could do before and after slideshow on your channel. You made some nice videos. Take care.
Thank you ! Working on my 404. Wish me luck. 😉
Sure, I do wish you good luck, but it is 90% your desire and determination. My videos can help with the other 10% 😀 You know I am here if you run into a problem. Take care, Ginny, and thanks for watching my channel.
Just found out I have a 404. I love it. It's the machine I learned to sew on in high school.
congratulations you have a wonderful machine that can last decades longer there are about 40 more videos in this series that will tell you everything you like to know about the model 404 thanks for watching my channel and leaving a nice comment
I love your video! Do you know what attachments go with this machine? I would like to find them. Found some on Ebay but all are different. One set has a zigzag attachment but I don't think that is for the 404. I am hoping to find a complete set.
If you follow this link you can download a free copy of the original 60-page instruction manual which includes directions for the included attachments and shows some "Fashion Aids" for the 404 including an "automatic zigzagger" and an "automatic buttonholer" among others. Original vintage attachments can be found on eBay and Bonanza, (and other places too) often in their original boxes. Good Luck.
Got my coffee and my chair. Looking forward to it.
Thank you for watching my channel. It's my longest series of videos on my favorite straight stitch machine. Pace yourself and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have a unique protect. You have a viewer that disassembled her machine and now we have it in labeled bags. lol. I love that it is your favorite machine because now I have 2 reasons to make sure I succeed. This we be an adventure and a chance to make a new friend here and spend some time with and old friend that I adore. I have watched many tech videos in my time but none as thorough and kind as yours. It is truly an honor to learn from a master on his favorite machine. This has turned into a wonderful gift to me. I'll make the 404 live again for all of us I am impressed with it too....well at least it's parts at the moment. It's a little tank...isn't it? Thank you for passing on the knowledge with such a good heart... I feel like a kid again!
@@elfkind5590 Parts in bags sure is familiar to me! I'm glad you'll be getting your machine back in service and know you can do it no worries. Yes, a little tank is a good description of it. When I restored a model 404 for the first time I was impressed with its build strength. Then I reviewed the history of it and found it was designed for home ec classes and sold to many high schools around the country for students to learn. Singer wanted a machine that would be easy to use and maintain and could take the abuse of multiple kids handling it each day. My wife very much prefers the 301A due to its hook/bobbin location, but I do favor the front, drop-in bobbin system, and stronger motor on the 404. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 My tension stud set screw is really stuck. Even an ultra sonic bath didn't loosen it. Set screw slot has butterfly pattern instead of slot. I prefer not to drill it but not afraid too. Is there any magic you know of sir? Thermal shock? maybe?
@@elfkind5590 Here is how I approach that. Unless the stud is ruined beyond repair I just leave it in place. I've done that many times. You just need to remember it is sticking out the side of the nose so you don't bump it on something and bend it. Go ahead and remove all the parts off of the stud. If you have not done that before here is my video for disassembly:
ua-cam.com/video/wFBZw5hQ-3k/v-deo.html The butterfly pattern could be the head has been damaged during removal attempts, or someone has replaced the set screw before with a self-tapping screw that damaged the original thread. I don't mess with it. If the stud is secure I leave it and move on.
Wow, what wonderful videos! I own my grandmother's 404 and I need to clean it up. First thing I learned is that my bed cover plate is missing. Do I need one to keep the machine running smoothly once I get it back in good working condition?
Thank you, Elizabeth. So nice that you have your g-mothers machine. The machine will work perfectly without the bed cover plate as far as the mechanical aspect. The plate is to prevent oil and grease from falling onto your floor, table, or sewing bench. You can find them sometimes on eBay. In the meantime, you can even cut a piece of cardboard or thin wood to fit and keep the bottom covered. If you have kids or pets around, and the machine will be in a cabinet, please do use something to cover the bottom. There are lots of moving parts there, the gears are sharp and they get hot. Model 404 was also sold in a carry case that included a plastic bottom and many people just used that bottom case part as a bed cover plate. You can see a picture of the carry case here: www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/original-pc-carrying-case-singer-401a-481367172
A video I'd like to mention is about an easy, quick way to clean the motor commutator and speed up the motor,
ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html Finally, one of my latest videos is about cleaning a 404 without taking all the parts off. It's a very long video, but on the timeline, I have markers with the starting times for each section. ua-cam.com/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/v-deo.html
Can you tell that model 404 is my favorite straight stitch machine? Thanks so much for watching my channel and thanks for saving your Grandmother's wonderful machine. Take care.
Guess what I am watching...again??? I realized after starting this, this is my Jake! I was fuzzy all over, lol!
After my surgery, I watched the entire series for the first time. Usually, I just scan through the videos during editing. It made me kind of miss Jake. A really great machine. But now Jake will have a sibling? You will enjoy this restoration. I think you will find the horizontal rotary hook interesting compared to the vertical hook of the 301A you did. Enjoy!
You are welcome to come visit Jake any time! I'm really looking forward to the restoration!
Saw the Chapman video and ordered the pink set. Thanks.
Welcome. I love using them. Every machine. Got my money's worth a long time ago.
Hi Andy, Thank you very much for sharing your expertise. j
Welcome, and thanks for the comment. See you again soon.
Hi Andy, hope all is well with you.
Andy, I am trying to get a Singer 319W back to working condition (thank you for the manual!). I removed and cleaned all the parts that I was brave enough to. I put the balance wheel back, put the washer in exactly the same position as I found, put the stop motion wheel on, and tightened the set screw ensuring that is is not resting on one of the elevated buttons.
When I loosen the stop motion wheel as you would for bobbin winding, I can feel the set screw bumping against the elevated buttons on the washer and stop.
When I tighten the stop motion wheel clock wise as if for sewing, the needle bar does not move. When i gently wiggle the balance wheel back and fort, I see the arm shaft and the needle bar move but not all the way. It feels like the arm shaft is also stuck between two elevated buttons on the washer because that is how much it moves - just a fraction.
I changed the position of the washer but with same result. I am not sure if the needle bar was moving up and down before I started working on it.
I was hoping to get the insides moving a bit so that I can clean/ oil them.
What am I doing wrong? I checked the manual and your videos and I assembled the balance wheel correctly.
thank you Andy. Stay safe.
Daisy
I don't think you are doing anything wrong as far as the handwheel parts are concerned. If you want to verify that you can just remove the handwheel and turn the arm shaft by grabbing it at the end and turning it. I'm thinking it is going to stop the same way as when the handwheel is attached.
There are so many moving parts on a sewing machine, and they mostly all move at the same time. If any single part is stuck or blocked then nothing can move. You think it may be the handwheel or stop motion clamp but that's just because it's the normal place to turn the shafts.
Your machine is more complicated than most, with all its "typewriter keys" that move levers and followers inside to sew a pattern. Many moving parts there. It also has a cleated drive belt from the top to the bottom of the machine. The thing is if the hook was blocked from a tangled thread, or a broken needle piece, or the takeup lever was bent, or the needle bar was blocked by dried oil in the bushing, or a piece of the drive belt was caught on something, or you have the bobbin case installed wrong and it's off the race, well... you get the point. Any of those things can cause a machine not to turn on the arm shaft.
One way I approach this is to get the instruction manual for the machine,
www.singer.com/search/support?title=319 If possible I try to put all the levers in position for the simplest stitch which is usually straight stitch number 12 or medium length. Now I carefully follow the oiling instructions in it to thoroughly oil all the points it says to. On your model, there are about 50 oil points.
Once that is done I use a hairdryer to heat up the machine, pausing at all those oil points to get them good and warm. This can take a long time. Heat, try to turn, let sit, heat, try to turn, let sit... This process is just to see if the problem is dried up oil in any of the moving parts, especially the shaft bushings that support the shafts. Over the decades a lot of oil can be put into a machine and it is seldom washed out or degreased. Now let that oil sit there for a year, or years, or decades and dry out and turn as hard as dried varnish.
If this does not get the machine moving then I start taking parts off to see if that was the cause of not moving. Patience is the key to the oiling and heating method. It can take from 5 minutes to several hours, or overnight and more the next day.
Some people use kerosene instead of the oil and skip the hairdryer. They believe the solvent works faster and better to get the old gunk out, then wipe up as much as they can with rags and apply fresh oil. I've never tried it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for this detailed reply. you are correct, nothing moved with the hand wheel off either - when I tried to turn just the arm shaft without the hand wheel. This machine has been in heat and humidity for years! I was scared to take out the type writer cams but I may not have a choice.
I will try the oil and heat method (don't like kerosene!). If that does not work, will try removing parts. It has no bobbin, just the case and that seems to be clean.
Will keep you posted. Yes, patience!! Thank you Andy. Stay safe. Daisy.
@@daisymay6290 Good luck. I don't care for using the kerosene either. I use Krud Kutter Cleaner & degreaser and wash the whole machine in the shower and dry with a leaf blower. 👀 ua-cam.com/video/SXn57XzNiRQ/v-deo.html I usually remove a lot of parts but viewers have told me they tried it with most of the parts still on the machine, minus the motor. You can try the method I suggested with oil and heat. You did not mention anything about rust so I did not ask about it. Rust removers work better when there is no oil/grease on the metal. I have injected the KK into the oil points before washing. Hope things get moving for you. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy :) luckily there is minimal rust on the machine. I saw your series on restoring Singer 404 (loved it!) and saw how you washed the machine in the bath tub :) After watching those videos, I also use KrudKutter for cleaning the parts.
Here is an update on the 319 on why the hand wheel was not doing a full rotation:
- I found that the 'bobbin case holder position bracket' which is like a long finger with a slightly bent/ curved tip is the issue; it is screwed in and supposed to hold the bobbin case?.
- That tip was placed in a grove in the bobbin holder. The tip of the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’ was hitting the sides of the grove on the bobbin holder preventing the hand wheel from turning a full circle.
I moved the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’ out of the grove, screwed it in a little away from the bobbin holder, oiled the machine per manual and it seems to be moving smoothly. Have not put the motor back in to fully check it but at least it’s moving.
What is the correct position for the ‘Bobbin Case Holder Position Bracket’? I could not find it in the manuals for 319 or 306.
I wanted to tell you this piece of good news and say thank you for the detailed replies and your encouragement. Thank you!!
Hopefully more good news tomorrow (smile) - Daisy
@@daisymay6290 I'm glad you found the "one thing" that was causing the problem. To me, it appears the service manual for model 319 shows a thread clearance setting between the position finger and bobbin case base of .020 inch, with a tolerance of .002 inch, so anywhere between .019 and .022 should work. I'm seeing that on page 111 of the service manual I have.
I just acquired a Model 403a, it came with its original cabinet for $55. I also have 2 503's, and I am hoping that with this video series I can explore the innards of the machines myself. I've had no luck with finding someone knowledgeable to do the work.
Hi, Roberta. I think the series will be worth your time. The only differences with the 403 & 503 are the camstack & swing needle. If you go to this site you can download a FREE copy of the original service manual for the 500/503 model. It has sections on remove/replace the parts I don't cover on the straight stitch only model 404. Between my series and the service manual I think you will be able to get the machines running & sewing very well. Good Luck, and contact me if you hit a roadblock. Here is th link: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/
Andy Tube gosh I didn't really expect to hear from you. Thanks for your kind remarks and I very well may reach out to you. I peeked into the 400 manual and it says to remove the motor and wiring harness and soak the whole machine in Varsol (which I take to be some kind of solvent). Do you do that?
I have never used Varsol. It is a volatile organic compound, petrol chemical with hydro carbons. You may know it as paint thinner, white spirits or turpentine. It was hugely popular with Singer repairmen who would soak a dirty machine in it, even overnight. If you look through my series on the 404 you will see I use Krud Kutter to remove the old oil & grease in about 10 minutes. Just be careful with the painted finishes as it can dull them. I would never use the Krud Kutter on any Black Singer Finish.
hI Andy.
After oiling greasing and threding thanks to you I have started to sew. The motor growls and sporadically doesn't run. Have you a video on servicing the motor or is it time to buy new?
Check out this playlist for motor repair ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html&feature=shared. I'm not sure about the growling you mentioned, but it might be the top bearing where the motor shaft comes through. Just below the pinion gear for the hand wheel
Great video. Thanks so much. I have had this machine a couple of years and finally am getting it going. I may have done something to the throat plate lever. It was seized up so I oiled it and would move but not all the way to the left. The two silver caps look like they want to move on the throat plate but don’t. Could I have stripped something? Either way it still sews great and don’t foresee that I will really need to use the lever. I have a singer curvy but actually like how this sews better and much easier to thread. Why must we always upgrade! Haha. I love the vintage feel. Thanks again and look forward to your channel.
Hi, Sandi. The parts of this assembly are strong and I doubt you "stripped" something. The pins are likely "glued" into the tubes they sit in by dried varnished oil. It usually better to take them from the bottom of the machine. Here is one of my videos about repairn the whole assembly. ua-cam.com/video/n1LSM-BZw9k/v-deo.html
This video you comment on is one of 56 in my restoration playlist. I've had emails from hundreds of people who have repair, fixed, cleaned, adjusted and even fully restored their machine from watching these videos. It's always a bad idea to force any part on a vintage machine b/c some of them can bend and break. If you try oiling something like that in the future try heating it up after applying oil. I use a hairdryer. Sometimes 2 minutes and sometimes 30. It can help soften that gunk and let the fresh oil in and get parts moving a little. It can get a little messing, but oil cleans right off with a soft rag, like old t-shirt. (Esp. the one of his you want to get rid of👀😉Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I like watching your videos. They are very detailed and easy to follow. I just got a singer 403a and want to clean it and get it up and running. When trying to pull the bobbin thread up with the needle it is not working right. It is gathering the thread and bunching it up. Then if you try and sew it puts a lot of thread on the first stitch and then none at all. Any suggestions? Thank you, David
Hi, David! If the needle thread will not pull up the bobbin thread it may be the hook to needle timing is off. The first thing to do is a good cleaning. Remove the slide plate, needle plate, bobbin & bobbin case. Then clean the throat area of all lint and dirt, oil the race and reassemble. Clean out the upper tension unit with a brush or canned air. It is surprising how a small amount of lint or dirt can mess up the stitch forming process. In my next video, I show how to remove all the parts in the bobbin area. You can also go here to get a free copy of the instruction manual. Just enter 404 in the search box: www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals
Look that over to be sure you run the upper thread properly and the bobbin & bobbin case is correctly threaded. Sounds like the upper tension may be a problem. Since the 403A has all metal hook gearing it is unusual for the timing to be off.
Thanks Andy I appreciate the inforamtion.
Two questions Andy: What is the brand of the hollow ground screwdriver set that you use and what do you use to loosen the really hard varnish between the top cover and the arm? The varnish seems impervious to WD-40, alcohol and mineral spirits. It doesn't affect function, but if I'm going to all this effort to restore, I'd like to do the best job possible. Thanks for all your effort, really enjoy your channel and this series.
I thought you would be asking some hard questions, haha. In April 2017 I researched hollow-ground screwdrivers after a comment about them from a viewer. I bought a 9600 Starter set from Chapman MFG, made in the USA. I love it, especially the little mini-rachet.
I made a video about the set: ua-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/v-deo.html Here is the MFG web page about them:
chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set
In June of 2019 a viewer, machine restorer and friend recommended another set of screwdrivers Made by Wheeler and I bought it.
Here is a video about them: ua-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/v-deo.html Here is where I bought it:
www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/wrenches-and-screwdrivers/43-piece-professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set/954621.html
I use both sets now, and some parts are interchangeable. If you only buy one I'd go for the chapman just to get the mini-rachet as you can buy additional bits anytime you like. You can torque that little rachet and get some stubborn screws out very well with it.
Varnished oil can be very difficult. My go-to cleaner for the machines is Krud Kutter Original Cleaner & Degreaser by Rustoleum. I found it by chance as I was always looking for something better that was earth-friendly, low VOC, zero odor (I live in a small condo without a workshop or garage). On the internal parts, I will pretreat them will up to 100% solution. On painted surfaces about a 15 to 25% solution with a quick rinse as it will dull paint if left on too long or used in a strong concentration. Here is their web page about it.
www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter
I bought a $5 spray bottle and buy the KK by the gallon at Home Depot and hardware stores around town. Price varies from 12 to $15 and I see it online shopping now also. I buy these soft-scrub kitchen type sponges at the dollar store, like 2 for $1.00 and they have the soft nylon "scrubby" on one side. I like them because the sponge is foam type, not cellulose, and they rinse really clean. For those tough edges like you are talking about I might tip a little on the scrubby and rub the top edge all around, followed behind by a wet terry cloth to get the gunk and KK off before it dulls the paint. I have made many videos of cleaning parts and giving the whole machine a "Shower" by spraying on the KK solution, scrub a little, rinse off with a hose or handheld shower, dry with a leaf blower or hairdryer and then oil the machine immediately. If I get a little flash rust during that process I use Rustoleum "The Must for Rust" and it wipes right off. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor/ It's about 6 or $7 an 8-ounce bottle around town and goes a long way. Very easy to use with a slightly funky smell.
If you have not seen any of my cleaning videos, this was the first time I filmed using the KK on a machine back in 2016. I don't do it on the patio andy more, but I bought a handheld shower and wash it right in my bathtub/shower inside. I scared my wife the first time, but then she saw how I clean the tub with it: ua-cam.com/video/d6juEKFj790/v-deo.html
Andy I know this is off topic, but would you have any hints on where I should look for a repair manual for my Riccar 9800 electronic? I have searched and searched but can't find anything. I am having upper tension problems Thanks Pat
I've never seen a digital copy for sale. Rarely someone will list a paper copy online. eBay or Bonanza in the USA. You may need to look at sights in the UK or Asia. Just too rare of a repair manual for a seller to digitize and make any money on. Sorry, Pat.
I followed your videos on the 404 to take apart, clean and put back together a non-functioning 404... thank you! I have acquired a 503A which is in very bad shape, dirty, greasy and completely stuck. I managed to free the wheel and motor gear by alcohol, a few drops of triflow, and heat. But now that the wheel turns pretty freely, nothing else engages so I don’t know if it’s a problem that can be easily fixed. I’m wondering if I can follow the videos again for the 404 as it seems much of the assembly seems to be very similar between the two.
"nothing else engages" sounds like the Stop Motion Wheel is disengaged and the machine is in bobbin winding mode. Were you able to turn the inner Stop Motion Wheel of the Handwheel to the right to put the machine into sewing mode? You can download the Instruction Manual for free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 Yes, you can follow the 404 videos for many of the parts on a 503A, but the 503A has lots of parts that are different. It has a pattern selector with a lifter and follower for zigzag sewing. The Bobbin Winder System is totally different, just to name a couple of things. FYI, I do have 20+ videos for model 503A in a playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7Uhrq.html Some of them cover what the 404 videos did, but some cover the other parts you will see on your new machine. You can also look at my playlist for model 403A. It has many of the ZZ parts of the 503A too. That playlist is 25+ videos and some may help you if I did not cover it in the 503A playlist. You can find the 403A playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
So, between the 404, 403A, and 503A Playlists, that is 100 videos that cover just about everything you can fix on your machine.
Thank you for saving that 404, and you can do the same with the 503A, no worries. I'm happy you found my channel and thanks for watching it.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for this guidance! It is not in the bobbin winding mode, but something is not working. It is in pretty poor shape, so I am going to take the route of working through the videos you advised in your reply to me. I think based on taking apart the 404 I will be able to get through this more complicated machine. I really appreciate you pointing me to the videos in the other playlists that I should look at to supplement the 404 videos! I will keep you posted on my progress! Thank you so much for all you do.
@@mtroth755 Best of luck then. I'd take off the handwheel first as that is the point power transfers from the motor to the main arm shaft.
Hi Andy, Really useful videos. I have an old 404G13 machine and it's running way too fast. when I press the pedal the machine makes an awful noise (like its getting stuck) then all of a sudden it shoots off and sews uncontrollably fast. Could it be the pedal?
Yes. It could be a lack of oil/grease, but it is usually the condition of the pedal. The pedal works by compressing stacks of carbon resistor discs to allow electricity to flow. When the discs are dirty, broken, missing, or out of adjustment the pedal won't work properly. When you press the pedal only a little electricity is reaching the motor so it "groans" and can not turn enough. As the discs get warmer and finally compress a little you are pressing hard and giving the pedal full power so when it does build up enough in the discs it is making the motor race at full speed. Your pedal is 50 to 60 years old and may have never been cleaned and adjusted. This is why I made the videos. You can try to just turn the adjustment screw and "close the distance" the spring/plunger has to travel to compress the discs, but in my experience, it is better to open the discs, poor them out, and take a look at them for cleaning. You can browse thru the videos at 2x speed to get the idea and determine if this is something you wish to do.
Hi Andy
Can you describe how the foot pedal and power cord are to be stored inside the case?
Hey, Neal. Some of the wooden cases have a Swing-Out Metal "Cage" that holds the Accessory Box on the inside left side.
You can get a short view of it at 4:48 of this video ua-cam.com/video/wjTIwrxjbuY/v-deo.html Many of the wood cases I've done do not have this so I thought maybe it was an option at the Singer Store? None of the wood cases for the 4xx or 5xx Slant Needle machines had storage for the pedal. None of the plastic cases I've seen for the Slants have anything like it either. I usually put the cord & pedal in a large ziplock-style baggie and rest it on the sewing machine bed between the needle and the upright arm to the right then slide the top cover of the dase down over everything. Sometimes my wife has made a cloth bag with a gathered string opening for me. A friend of mine uses the vintage cloth bags that came with a Chivas Regal whiskey bottle back in the day 😉
Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, Luke again here from Australia. I am pretty excited as I have found a one-owner 404G and it's on the way. It looks very good in the photos and has service history which is rare over here. Anyway, I have a question: I am confused as to what models or buttonholer and monogrammer to use with this machine? I don't want to buy the wrong ones and I am not sure they are the same as the zigzag models.
Anyway. thank you again. Oh and PS, I sourced some Krud Kutter products here in Australia and I now have degreaser and Must-for-rust the same as you use. Good times! Luke
Congrats, Luke. I've seen pictures of the 404G and it looks great. Minor differences is all. Here is part 1 of a 2 part video series using a slant-needle buttonholer on model 301A. The red treasure chest it's called. It would also work on the 404 straight-stitch machines.
ua-cam.com/video/bVlDzfuiO6A/v-deo.html here is one currently on our eBay site in the US, but you can buy them much cheaper:
www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/original-singer-slant-needle-buttonholer-fits-models-301-401-403-404-500-503?variant=7958229811230 The Cloth Clamp moves the fabric and that allows this to be used on a straight-stitch machine.
Here is the manual (same manual for straight and slant versions) ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/lowshank.pdf
As to the Monogrammer Attachment. As far as I know, they only work on a ZZ machine.
I hope you like Krud Kutter as much as I do for cleaning the machine and other uses. Best of luck and take care.
I was hoping you could answer a question for me, I recently got a 404 machine and love it ! I ordered these plastic spool pins and they are constantly falling out! I try pushing them in, and screwing them in and they tip and fall.... am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any ideas you might have!
Congratulations on your marvelous model 404! It's not so much you are doing something wrong, just not quite right. These are the pins I use; they fit over 30 models of vintage Singer Machines: shop.sew-classic.com/Spool-Pin-Plastic-Tap-in-Singer-401-403-404-172007.htm
If you take a look at this video you will see how I install them. The arm cover pin @ 46:20 of this video ua-cam.com/video/DsLLF0-4Vpo/v-deo.html
The pin for the bobbin winder thread spool is @ 103:26 in the same video ua-cam.com/video/DsLLF0-4Vpo/v-deo.html
I like to use the rubber mallet but have used a regular metal household hammer too. Maybe this video will help you out, and thanks for watching my channel, Dana.
Hi Andy Tube! I'm having an issue on my Singer 404 Slant Needle sewing machine! I was sewing and my thread got stuck on the thread. My take up lever is stuck and my handwheel is isn't working smoothly. I've come to conclusion I might have broker the driver belt. Where is it in the sewing machine? The motor is working fine.
""... my thread got stuck on the thread."" hehe It can't be a broken driver belt because there are no belts on this model. It's all steel gears. Here is a video about lubricating the machine, you can see inside the top and bottom of the machine and the gears,
ua-cam.com/video/raYAkJ0-jic/v-deo.html Here is a restoration playlist for the whole machine: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html A common cause of the machine stopping are thread tangles, like around the bobbin case area. You must use a Class 66 bobbin, the one with curved sides, not flat sides. You must thread the machine properly as shown in the instruction manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 (bottom one of the listed) You can check the thread gap between the bobbin case and the case position bracket. There has to be a certain amount of space there or the thread can get caught. Once one catches, all the rest will catch until it just stops the machine from turning. Here is the video,
ua-cam.com/video/OXKqZp87eN4/v-deo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 You are my hero!! I admire your work and the time you took to reply to me with such detail! I was going crazy trying to find a belt! You made me comfortable opening up sewing machine too! I'll get back to work on my mechanic skills lol
@@samladouceur7812 No worries then. Good luck going forward.
Great videos. Thanks. I would like to know which Chapman set you purchased. There are many choices. Thanks again.
I bought the 9600 set: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set
Consider the 8900 set too: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/8900-standard-set-12-slotted-bits
Here is my review video of the 9600 set: ua-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/v-deo.html
These sets come in pink and camo too, plus a black ESD set.
Thanks for watchinmg Andy Tube
I have one. Sews beautiful.
Congratulations on owning such a wonderful machine! Thank you for watching Andy Tube.
Awesome video!! Thank you!! I was searching for info on this model and your video was just what I was looking for. I was wondering if you know how to replace the spool pin? Mine has been snapped off. Any information that you can provide would be welcome. Thank you
Thank you, Wendy. For the spool pin on the arm cover, I remove the arm cover and set it upside down on a folded towel. Usually, the end of the spool pin is exposed and I can push it up and out the top of the arm cover. Sometimes it takes using a wood dowel or BBQ stick and tapping with a small hammer or rubber mallet. For the bobbin winding spool pin, you can't always get to the bottom of the pin from underneath. If enough of the pin is left I grab it with pliers and twist and pull it up and out. If there is not enough to use pliers I cut it flush with a tiny saw blade and drill it out using a small wood drill bit. Using a bit smaller than the pin diameter so I don't damage the aluminum base of the machine. Thanks for watching my channel.
I was wondering when you would make a new video. lol I was having Andy withdrawals ...lol That is one machine I dont have but want one ...lol
Hi Carolyn, and thank you! I will be doing a number of vids on this 404, so no withdrawals, haha. For sure you will fall in love with the Model 404 after watching. Removing & replacing parts on this can also provide methods for other model numbers too.
I was actually looking at some on ebay a couple weeks ago lol. I like what I see here in your videos. :) Cant wait for the next video on that beautiful machine
Should be up Friday evening.
You mean I have to wait 2 whole days???????????????????????? ahhahaheheee lol
Haha...I thought a couple vids a week was pretty good production. I'm happy you look forward to them :)
Also I can hardly see the numbers on the tension ring on my new to me 404. It’s no longer coloured. Any way I can replace that part? Where to order? Thanks
If you want vintage parts you will need to buy the whole assembly (most times) watch for them on eBay and bonanza; they sell quickly. $15 to $30. You can buy an after-market assembly that works, but you usually need to trim of a little of the stud and pin to fit in your machine correctly: shop.sew-classic.com/Singer-Tension-assembly-Replacement-200-400-series-others-SCT422403-455.htm
The numbers are raised from the dial and I have colored them with a paint pen rather than replace the dial. If the numbers themselves have worn off that means the metal has worn away. I have never seen that though.
My 404 will sew for about an inch or so and then the fabric stops moving and it just sews in the same spot. What would cause that?
First thought is the thread is wrapping around the hook and getting caught. Remove the needle thread and remove the bobbin and just run the fabric through without any thread and see if the fabric will feed by the feed dog. Pulling it. If it does then you've got a threading problem. If the fabric still won't go through the machine then you have a feed dog problem and we can go from there
Thanks for the quick response! Let me try that real quick.
I do think its getting caught on the hook, but not every rotation, which is weird.
Ok, fabric goes right through no problem without thread
@@lloyd4375 Maybe this is a new machine for you? Many possibilities for thread wrapping. Start with the basics.
Thread the needle: ua-cam.com/video/A0IBjNpKHo0/v-deo.html
Thread the bobbin case & bring up the bobbin thread: ua-cam.com/video/Tb3nKUrEtGM/v-deo.html
Check thread clearance: ua-cam.com/video/OXKqZp87eN4/v-deo.html
Of course, be sure you are using the correct bobbin type. Model 404 uses a CLASS 66 Bobbin. It came with plastic ones, but metal can also be used. It has rounded sides, meaning curved like a teacup saucer, not flat-sided bobbins which are too tall and can catch the thread. I go slow in my videos so use 1.5 or higher times speed if desired.
Basic steps b/c wrong path of needle thread, or missing the tension discs when threading, or wrong bobbin, or too narrow thread clearance can all cause thread wrapping.
Andy, I was using my 404 the other day after it not have being used for several years and everything was working fine. Today I plugged it in and i have no power to the machine whatsoever, the light does not come on no sounds..nothing . Do you think it could simply be the power cord?
Maybe. Does your 404 have two cords? One the goes from the wall outlet to the receptacle on the machine? It has a wide "plug" with three holes and connects below the handwheel. The second cord has two "prongs" that connect near the base of the machine and comes from the foot controller? So the cord from the wall with three holes is what brings electricity to the machine of course. With only that "power" cord connected the light should be able to turn on and off with the switch, even without the foot controller cord connected. So if you can't even turn on the light, it is possible the cord failed. It is also possible the receptacle prongs on the machine are dirty, especially with verdigris. That's a greenish sticky build up from the brass pins and electricity. While the machine was sitting for several years was the cord still connected to the machine? It's possible the sewing you did warmed up the green stuff and when it cooled it created a barrier that is blocking the electricity from making a connection. Pull the cord and look at the prongs. If they are dirty clean them with alcohol, sandpaper, wire brush, metal polish, something that makes them shine again. The green stuff and dirt could be inside the cords now which makes them unsafe in my opinion. New cords online are $8 to $15. I have also had cords fail right where they go into the plug at either end. The get siff and brittle and then when move the wires inside can separate or break. I am assuming you tested the electical outlet?
Yes, I have two cords. I'm going to clean the prongs like you suggested and if that doesn't help I will buy a new cord. Yes, I did test the outlet. Thanks help Andy i appreciate it. PS I love your videos.
Thank you. I hope you stop by again. My two main sources for cords: shop.sew-classic.com/Singer-Cords_c34.htm
www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-404-parts
All new cords are black, sigh ....
Thanks again. I will check them out.
Cord on order. Fingers crossed. It was on sale too!!
I just got a 404 that looks beautiful from my Grandpop that passed away but I need help, I'm not sure what's wrong with it but the handwheel won't turn and the needle won't move. If you have any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it 😊
Chances are the machine has been idle for a long time. The oil/grease in the machine, especially the bushings, tends to dry out and get sticky and even hard. All the parts on the machine move together, and if any moving part gets stuck, nothing will move. There are a few other things that can cause a frozen machine, but it is usually the oil situation. You can download a free INstruction Manual from SInger if you do not have the original paper booklet. www.singer.com/search/support?title=404
Starting on page 51 there are directions for where to oil. TriFlow Oil is the best to use on a machine like yours.
www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/ You can also use any good quality sewing machine oil. Following the directions in the manual apply generous drops of oil where it says to. Next, warm all those areas with a hairdryer or heat gun. You do not need the highest temps, just warm. The idea here is to dilute and soften the old oil in the machine. This can take time, sometimes hours of letting the oil soak in. I usually oil, then heat for 5 minutes or so and try gently to turn the wheel. Never force the wheel or anything on the machine. If it is still stuck I just let it sit for an hour or so and try again. Still stuck? A little more oil & heat and waiting. I've had the machine free up in 10 minutes and I've had a couple that took 36 to 48 hours. You made this comment on part one of a series of videos that are a step by step tutorial for completely rehabilitating the machine. If that is too much for you, adding fresh oil and wiping up whatever oozes out and getting the machine moving may be all you want/need. At some point, you need to do the grease on the gears. Brush off as much of the old stuff on the gears and add new TriFlow clear synthetic Grease:
www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/
Model 404 is my favorite heavy-duty straight stitch Singer sewing machine. It's a wonderful machine to inherit. Congratulations.
@@andytubesewing1953 so i took the nut off the wheel and i tried turning it a couple hours after i put oil on it and the needle moves up and down fine like that but i slipped the wheel on and that won't seem to turn but if i turn the nut that's usually covered on the end of the wheel tge needle will move. Does the wheel maybe need to be replaced?
@@Angcarp19 You don't mention the clamping washer. Here are two videos; one is to remove the handwheel and counterbalance (do not remove the counterbalance) and the other video show how to reinstall the handwheel. I think they may help you to be sure you have all the parts and how to put them on if you do. Of course, if the clamp is missing you'll need to find a used one on eBay. Good Luck.
ua-cam.com/video/eZiMaaka5HE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/hHl96WL1kzA/v-deo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry I'm probably calling stuff the wrong names. I just checked and i have all the parts to the handwheel that you do and they were put on the right way. For some reason the wheel won't move, i feel like it's stuck on something. Wish i could send you a picture of the inside from the top view because i feel like the brown part on the wheel where you put the grease is stuck on some long threaded bolt and I wasn't sure if that piece was supposed to move and it's not so that's what's preventing the wheel from turning. I don't know but I'm gonna try to figyre it out 😁
I stick by my original reply to you that the whole machine is frozen or seized b/c dry oil/lack of fresh oil. It's why I recommended getting he manual and oiling/heating the machine. You are concerned with the motor gear b/c you can see it but I have never had a frozen/seized motor that prevented the handwheel from turning, but I've had dozens of seized machines where nothing turned, including that motor gear/ because all movement comes from the handwheel turning the main arm shaft. All three shafts on the machine have bearings/bushings at each end of them and the oil can dry and act like glue. If any bushing is stuck like that then none of the shafts can move b/c all parts work together at the same time on a sewing machine and if one parts is stuck, none can move.
Is the 404 the same as the 404G
Almost the same. The g model was made in Germany has a different bobbin winder and threading system on the top but it was based on the USA model 40 4
Please, where is the serial number on the 404?
Hi Daniel, as you face the machine lay it on its back away from you and look at the bottom of the machine on the very left edge like to the left of the bobbin area. You should see the letters and numbers stamped into the metal right near the edge. If that doesn't work let me know. Thanks for watching my channel. Good luck!