SINGER MODEL 404 RESTORE SERIES Pt. 2 REMOVE BOBBIN AREA PARTS models 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, 503A
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- How to remove the slide plate, needle plate, bobbin case, bobbin case holder, and feed dogs for cleaning and inspection. The screwdrivers are from www.chapmanmfg.com if you are interested.
Singer models 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, 503A se2ing machines
Thanks so much for this video Andy. Looks like a great tool you got there. What is it that you love so much about the 404, can you tell me? God bless
Thank You! I love the tool set, but it still has it's limitations as you will see in a future video.
About the 404: It is truly made heavy duty, by design. Its more famous relative, the 401A, was called the "Greatest Sewing Machine Ever Made." It has a huge cam stack with dozens of built-in stitches. That cam stack is heavy with metal, and the motor and gears turn that cam stack around and around no matter what stitch you sew. The 404 has the same motor and gears, but no cam stack at all! Nothing to do but move that needle up and down and feed the fabric thru. Singer made it with larger shafts, bigger needle bar crank and heavier needle bar and presser bar parts.
Most professional seamstresses tell me that 90% of sewing is straight stitch and that is why many commercial machines are straight stitch only. So, the Model 404 is powerful, heavy duty straight stitch machine. Add in the easy front drop-in class 66 bobbin and horizontal rotary hook, and you have a great machine.
Thanks for commenting. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 How would you compare it to a 201?
@@lisahayden5008 I can't b/c I've never had my hands on a 201.
My Mom has this machine and I'm having a blast following your videos to clean and repair it. Thank you!!!
Welcome, and good luck.
We had a 404 sitting around for about 10 years not being used. Then one day my wife decided to use it. It ran for about one minute and then it locked up. It would not move. So I decided to follow your restoration instructions and take it apart. Midway through the second video, when I went to remove the rotating head bobbin case I found that it was stuck. When I finally was able to remove it, the whole machine became operable. So I cleaned it off, put all the parts back together and now it runs as good as new. THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your vide!
Good job, Paul. Thanks for getting the machine back in service. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Stop by anytime.
Thank you so very much!!!!!. After decades I have been able to replace that hook!!! All these years I had to use tape to hold the slide plate in place.
Glad I could help! No more tape for you! Happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 funny I had to view almost all the videos on 404 restoration to get to the part where you explain how to replace the sliding throat pate spring C clip. Finished the entire project of cleaning, oiling and lubrication at 1:38 AM Thais morning!! I’ve been sewing almost 60 years, since I was a little girl. My mom taught me on a then “new” Singer model. I’ve even sewn entire wardrobes on my great aunt’s ancient, heavy Singer treadle machine, with the odd bobbins. Over decades I’ve had many, many sewing machines made by different companies but, this 404 sold to me for $1 by my old neighbor, with it’s oak sewing cabinet and seat over 35 years ago is by far my favorite. Aside from that slide plate issue it has never given me grief nor reason to take it to a shop for servicing. Sir,I am extremely grateful for the time and effort you have taken to make these videos and share your knowledge. Thank you so ver much. Now, to tackle why my Singer 7426’ bobbin winder doesn’t work at all.
@@jaquelinedeponce5251 You're very welcome. It sounds like the best $1.00 you ever spent. I don't sew at all and just thinking of the skills you've developed over 6 decades makes my head spin. Happy sewing for a few more; you certainly have the right machine for it.
Thank you so much for this series! I picked up one of these for $5. Can't wait to clean it and getting her going.
What a bargain! My favorite Heavy Duty Straight Stitch machine. I'm glad you found my channel and thank you for saving that machine and getting it back into service 🙏 Happy Sewing.
It was a little hard to lift the black bracket but it immediately freed the frozen wheel due to the upper thread getting caught. Thank you so much!!
Congratulations! Yes, that little spring bracket is stiff because it has to hold the bobbin case in place. But I'm glad you accomplished it and happy sewing
Awesome video Andytube..! WOW.. I need to watch the whole series.!! I've got to learn all about this machine.. I just might buy one,, one of these days..😉.. Yeah, I really like that Chapman set, I purchased that same set a couple yrs ago, what a difference from using a regular tapered screw driver.. The right tool for the right job makes all the difference..
The more I worked on this model the more I fell in love with it. This is my longest playlist on a model with 56 videos. Just watching 3 minutes of this video as a reminder. Makes me want to go out and buy one myself haha
@@andytubesewing1953 haha.!! . Well,, I might be going to look at one tomorrow..and it's in a table. 😀.. I'm looking forward to watching the whole play list. Thank you.. 🙏
@@connieworcester55 wow! That was quick. Those machines are practically falling in your lap haha
@@andytubesewing1953 hahah I know..!! that's funny.. LOL.. every time I see one of your video's of a machine that really piques my interest,,, I look on FB market place,,, and, WALA,,, I usually see one of that model..and this video is 6 yrs old.. I only have to drive an hour to see this one... Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge about these vintage Singers.. I've always loved working on mechanical things, I think it's an obsession.. LOL.... It's just so nice to take an extremely well engineered and well built machine, that has been neglected or broken, and restore it to good working order. They just don't make them like these vintage Singers any more... you've helped save lots of these beautiful vintage machines with your extremely well done videos Andy.! It's obvious that you put a lot of time and effort into making Andytube videos.. You've helped so many of us. I am grateful..
@@connieworcester55 I hope I have helped many vintage machines to be saved. Yes, the great design and manufacturing of them is really something. I've given machines to my daughter so she'll have them. She does not always have time to sew but she can sew whatever she needs. This hobby and you go hand & hand. Thanks for saving them.
I just got a free 404 that is filthy and completely jammed up and was full of little seed like things that looked like cherry pits (in the body of the machine) which I assume were some mouse's prized winter stash. And the nededle and most of the bars done move, though the balance wheel does turn.
So, this is a great find to find this series. I plan to do exactly what you do in each video and hopefully end up with a machine that not only moves and is seed and grime free, but sews nicely!
This will be a great learning experience. Thank you!
You're in for a fun, rewarding time! You are lucky if the "seed like things" are plant-based unlike a model 347 I worked on: ua-cam.com/video/04AN-FW7DzA/v-deo.html Normally I only use WD40 sparingly b/c it is NOT a lubricant and must be cleaned off afterward, but when I plan to take so many parts off the machine and wash it I will gladly spray the parts generously with WD and let it sit overnight. When I start I wipe off what I can with old rags then start taking parts off. This has saved me aggravation, barked knuckles, and stripped screw heads over the years. Once dismantled the parts and body can easily be washed with Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser. That will easily remove the WD before getting all the old filth off too. Happy restoration and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Im hoping wd40 will loosen things up so I can get the feed dogs off. Those screws are not budging.
I have managed to do all the steps in video 1 and 3, except for the feed dogs and I need to remove the hook assembly from the nose area and that screw isn't budging either. Again, I'm hoping a few hours with some WD40 will do its magic.
The whole main shaft doesn't turn. I assume future videos will cover disassembling all that stuff. Pretty much nothing wants to move initially.
The needle and presser bars wouldn't move, but WD40 and I got them out eventually.
I am not sure what was going on with this machine, but pretty much every single thing so far has needed a lot of persuasion, time and WD40 to come loose and move.
@@lisahayden5008 The main upper and lower shaft (and vertical) have bushings that hold a bit of oil. When that oil dries up the shaft is stuck. Putting oil or WD into the 6 oil ports for the 3 shafts can go a long way to loosen up the shafts and get them moving. The oiling instructions are in the manual. If anyone needs a manual they are free from the Singer Support page here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 (last manual on the list) Also, heating the meatal parts helps a lot also. The machine is aluminum and steel so it can take heat from a hairdryer easily. I've had needle bars that wouldn't budge just fall down in the bushing after a few minutes of heat. OH, and tapping on the screwdriver, if possible, with a small hammer while turning the setscrews on the dogs, or other screws, can "shock" them free. You'll hear a little "snick" sound and then it will turn freely.
Great video. I finished my Rocketeer and it runs fine. Since then I picked up a Model 15 with cabinet at a thrift store. With your videos I got it working just fine. Recently I found a 404 with simulated pedal style cabinet. I wanted the cabinet for my 15 so I got it. The 404 was in rough shape but your videos have saved the day. I have ordered some parts but am confident I can get working great. Thanks again.
You've been very busy. I've never done a model 15, but now you have. You'll enjoy the simplicity of the 404 compared to your Rocketeer. Thanks for saving these machines, Dewey, and for watching my channel. Take care.
Thank You for the great video, I'm another person whose problem you have solved, your video is so clear and concise. Thank you again for taking time out of your life to help others.
It's great to get a comment like this. Thanks for keeping your vintage machine going. Take Care.
I inherited my 404 from my Grandmother and it certainly has been a workhorse. Your videos have really helped me keep things in shape.
so happy for you Paula family-owned machines are the best I'm glad you found my 404 series just keep it clean and lubricated and think about the day you leave it to your granddaughter fantastic thanks for watching my channel
This was the perfect video to come into my life today! Thank you so much for sharing! I have now subscribed to Andy Tube! You are so inspiring, and I am gaining confidence with my 404. Thank you so much!
Thank you for the sub. I feel honored that I inspired you! I feel the better you understand your 404 the more creative you will be with it. I don't know how you came to be its caretaker, but I'm glad you did. Have all the confidence you will be BFF as time goes by and you guide the machine to do what you need to accomplish your sewing.
Great video. Always helpful.
thank you Dave I appreciate the great comment
I have a 404 and love it, but lately the bobbin thread keeps wanting to jump back into the slot guide to get to the hole it is supposed to be in to sew. How do I fix this? Thanks for all your wonderful videos.
I'm trying to picture this but not sure I see what you do. First off, if the machine is making good, normal stitches then leave it alone. If not, be sure you have the correct bobbin case in the machine, part #172082 as shown in this slide show: ua-cam.com/video/8iwyoTC7FEc/v-deo.html If you do then you may need to clean the bobbin case, or even adjust it. Has it ever been cleaned? Micro pieces of thread lint can build up under the spring. That collects dust. All that can move the spring away from the body enough to cause trouble. I made a video about cleaning and adjusting a Class 66 Rotary Hook Bobbin Case like you have on your machine. You can find it here: ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html Those are the most common causes of bobbin holder troubles. There can be others but start with these and see what you find. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thank you so very much, you are WONDERFUL!!! I watched the videos again on how to thread the bobbins and take the casing out. You were absolutely right about there being lint. I was to afraid of taking the bobbin case out, but watching your video on how to do it, gave me courage to do it. Sews perfect once again, and the bobbin thread stays where it’s supposed to in the bobbin case. Please keep the videos coming, thanks a million!
@@skjb9658 Very happy to hear you fixed the problem and are sewing again. Thank you for letting me know. I answer over 100 questions per month, easily. Not many viewers give feedback like this and I appreciate it. 🙏
My 404 slant needle machine jambed when I was sewing & now it won’t pick up the bottom thread. Any help would be appreciated also where could I get a new hook plate? Thanks Mario
It's a good idea to change the needle after a jamb. Be sure to place the needle correctly and all the way up into the clamp. You can watch my needle bar video to see if your jamb changed the height of the NB which would affect timing. When you can't pick up the bobbin thread it is usually timing. ua-cam.com/video/S52xOYYZV58/v-deo.html You can buy vintage slide plates online at eBay, Amazona, Sewing Center Stores, Etsy. The original part No. for your slide plate is 172015. You can also buy new, non-OEM replacement plates. I assumed you meant slide plate when you said hook plate. I don't know what a hook plate is. Good Luck.
Okay I’m stuck can’t that black spring bracket back in the bobbin area. Retraced every step for an hour plus and it’s still loose. Help!!! It’s 12:23 in the morning/.I’ve been at this for hours cleaning and disablement ever inch of this machine. I’ve put it all all back to geyser except for the black spring bracket.
This video is part 2 of a 50+ series for a full restoration of model 404. You can find that series here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html If you want to put the retaining bracket back in now that is shown in part 27. You can find it here: ua-cam.com/video/Vvo0ZNjdPRU/v-deo.html
Hi Andy
So my machine doesn’t want to see but I’m not sure that is causing me that problem I thought it was the bobbin but I’m not to sure it seems like it could be something else because it also gets the thread tangled under the bobbin holder if you can please give a some advice on what I should try I would really appreciate it thank you very much
"tangled is a little vague, but when thread loops under the fabric it MAY be a sign that the bobbin thread tension is much stronger than the needle thread tension. I don't know if you are new to this model, if are new to sewing, or if you've been sewing for many years. With that in mind, I always start with removing the needle thread back to the spool and starting over, being double sure I had the thread between the tension discs while the presser foot was lifted up. Next, I'd try pulling on the thread from the bobbin after it comes out of the hole of the needle plate. I'd want to feel a little drag on the thread but not very much. If it is harder to pull up that signal a tension problem on the bobbin case, or a miss-threaded bobbin case. I have a 56 video series for model 404 and I assume that is what you have. The playlist is made as a step-by-step do-it-yourself restoration instruction, but you can look through the video list for the tension unit, the timing, etc. There is a slight, slight possibility that your hook has a delint bar that is catching the thread down below and that can truly create a huge tangle, but often stops the machine so I'd look at tension on the needle thread first.
Andy, thanks for all the great videos! So helpful to someone weary to try and service these great machines! I have a 503 that I bought off my neighbor whose late wife used it many years ago. I am dying to get it working. I have done much pretreatment (per your videos) but I cannot get the handwheel, needle, or the thread uptake to budge. I am a little scared to take it apart too much. Please advise me what to do or a video that can help me. I can post a video and show you if you would need. Thank you in advance!
Welcome to Andy Tube. Thanks for the kind words. Let's get started here. No need to dismantle much of the machine to get it moving. Any moving part of the machine that can not move will "freeze" the whole machine. ANY PART. The way I start with a machine like this is to liberally apply oil (no grease yet) to ALL of the oil points in the Instruction manual pages 89 to 91. If you need the manual you can download a FREE copy here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/10f8b1ba3a5534c1cbfe8dda7b7ebe531c9e0ccb.pdf
While the oil is soaking in and hopefully softening up the old, dried up varnished oil, here are some things I try while I'm waiting. I release the stop motion knob as if I was going to wind a bobbin. (see page 11 of manual) Then I try turning the handwheel. With the stop-motion released the only thing turning will be the handwheel and motor. 99% it will turn freely now to prove it's not the handwheel or motor causing the problem, re-engage the stop-motion by turning the outer knob back to the right.
Next, I would put the stitch width lever in STR (straight, no zigzag) position. If the lever won't go into STR position then skip this for now, but if the lever is in, or will go into STR, then pull out any Fashion Disc that is on the pattern selector (camshaft). By removing it you eliminate all the associated levers, followers and lifters that could be frozen and preventing movement. If everything else will move now then you know something around the stack is frozen and that is where to concentrate oiling and cleaning. If that did not free up movement, then leave the disc out and move to the face or nose of the machines and oil the needle bar and take up levers again. Try to remove the bobbin case if you can. Follow the instructions on page 87 to do this. I doubt this will make a difference, but it needs to be done sooner or later. At this point, the oil may be working so try turning the handwheel and see if you get movement. DO NOT FORCE IT, just try to turn in a normal manner like you were raising the needle during sewing. If you get a little movement that is great! That means it is old oil, gunk, grime that was preventing movement and you can proceed to clean and re-oil everything. You can just clean the moving parts where they contact each other. You can use alcohol if you like.
The cleaner it gets and the more the old oil is softened and "pushed out" by the new oil then the more and more movement you will get. Congratulations!
If you want to speed up this whole process you can use a penetrating oil like 3-in-1 penetrant or even WD-40 and warm the moving parts with a hair drier. No need to use high heat, a medium should do it. Don't forget the underneath areas at the end of shafts. Don't worry about the gears right now, no oil or heat on them. They will move unless they are glued or rusted together. Any penetrating oil or WD-40 will need to be removed later, but really you should be cleaning and wiping out the old crud anyway. You don't need to remove parts like I do if you are not comfortable doing it. Maybe someday you can do that when you understand the machine better.
Here's a video that may help you understand how the machine works: ua-cam.com/video/aIn1rnGbmqw/v-deo.html&list=PLsCOZgzzaiKIQcy78hoNrX1376edTQPlq&index=4
Here is a playlist of 503A videos you can look at for tips:
ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Finally, go here to download a FREE Service Manual for your machine. It has instruction and pictures of adjusting, removing and replacing most of the parts of your 503A: ua-cam.com/video/nED04_HQtKs/v-deo.html&lc=z23hhrqiyxqiynvlyacdp43aabsdb5iqop41oyq15txw03c010c&feature=em-comments
Ok then, sorry it's only a quick guide to respond to your question. If you need more help than email is a better forum than the comment section. The email address for my channel is andytube53@gmail.com and I'm good about responding.
Best of luck and thank you for rescuing that lovely Rocketeer sewing machine. It is worth all your efforts.
If you ever have the time, I'd love to know how it turns out. Take Care.
Andy Tube Wow! What a thoughtful response! ☺️ Thank you so much! I will definitely go through all the steps/instructions/videos and responses you have provided me with. Then, I will be sure to follow up. I couldn’t be more excited to get this machine working! So, thank you again!👍👍
Very welcome! I know you will find the hang-up and then you can really get it cleaned up and running. Have fun.
Awesome. Just what I needed to find out. Thank you so much for this video.
Welcome Randy. I forgot to mention this link to a free repair guide for the 401A, it may come in handy for you.
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Where is a good place to get parts for the 404? I need a power cord that accepts 2 prongs & a bobbin case. I have the foot pedal cord.
Most time you have to find used vintage parts (original) on eBay or a similar online market. They do make a few new items like cords, springs, rubber cushions, and rubber tires.
Here is the type of cord at a good price: www.sewingpartsonline.com/power-cord-singer-122.aspx Many others sell the cord.
I'd recommend only the original bobbin case #172082 which is for the 404 and the 403A. Here is a known seller with a good price IMO: oldsingershop.com/products/singer-401-403-404-500-503-sewing-machine-bobbin-case-original-simanco-172082?_pos=9&_sid=a7b72840b&_ss=r&variant=39778412789796
You can find many for sale from China with part #172082-7 or -8. They cost less. They were made for a different model but will "fit" I tried a couple and they work but I feel they are skittish and noisy so I stick with a vintage one.
There are parts sellers on eBay, Facebook Marketplace, etc. if you want to shop for price.
I was given a 404 that seems to have everything but the bed slide plate. I ordered one on eBay supposedly for this model and the shape is right but it won’t attach into the “slide” portion it just kind of hovers above it… where would I look to buy the correct slide plate?
Lucky you to get such a great machine! Chances are they sold you the correct slide plate. It is Part No. 172015 and a used vintage one is always better than a newly made one, IMO. (eBay) You have to slide it on the retaining spring from back to front to have tension and let it slide. Here is my video about it: ua-cam.com/video/AnLKB9CPrmE/v-deo.html Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 this is exactly the video I have been looking for, I just didn’t go far enough back on your channel. Thank you!
@@dancequeen168able oh that's good. It's not an intuitive way to put it on. I struggle with it the first time quite a while and I understand about finding my videos. I've got 600 of them. I tried to organize them in playlists by machine part and by model number but it's still a struggle. I'm happy you got a 404. It's really a wonderful machine. Happy sewing!
I'm stuck, because the right side of the throat plate on my Mom's machine doesn't lift when I move the throat plate position lever to the left. I've looked on the bottom of the machine, and I see the lever that moves over a small button knob that seems to disappear into a spring. I've tried oiling the plate from the top, but no luck. Can you help?
Sure. The 404 restoration series has 56 videos. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html
Part 4 shows how to remove the positioning bracket. It may help you. ua-cam.com/video/7S-vhd94AJg/v-deo.html I'd also like to mention my latest cleaning video. It happens to be a model 404. It's a really long video, but at 25:35 into it, I show a method for lifting the needle plate that may help you. Here is that video ua-cam.com/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/v-deo.html
Thankyou andy, you were crystal clear. Can you explain how to get part #172085 the bracket next to the bobbin case back in i sure wuld appreciate thankyou
Short answer: I have a video for that and you can find it here: ua-cam.com/video/Vvo0ZNjdPRU/v-deo.html
Long answer: These videos are part of a series for a full restoration of the Model 404. Ther are 50+ videos in the playlist. The first half is about removing parts and cleaning the body and the 2nd half is about reassembly and adjustment. You can find the playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html
Thank you for watching my channel.
Welcome back Andy ... I got the part for my Singer 301 for the length stitch regulator. I got it all put together but the knob that screws into the thingy from behind doesn't screw close to the stitch number plate.It is kind of tight and I am wondering if it is because of being too tight. Any thoughts ?I can still change stitch without screwing it out and in, just move the lever either way like your wife does so you said lol. I hope you understand what I mean. Anyways at least it doesnt creep up anymore when sewing. I do love these restoration videos. I get fed up with people who say they restore them and when they show the machine working you can see all kinds of dirt and crap on the machine. So far your the real deal restoration man:)
the real deal restoration man...hmmmm... I like it! Should have been the name of my channel.
I am having trouble picturing "the knob that screws into the thingy from behind." The chrome thumb nut should be able to be turned all the way up against the numbered plate. That is its purpose if you want to "lock in" the stitch length. I would be sure the screw stud is screwed all the way into the regulator behind the numbered plate. If the knob is stiff or tight to turn I would drop some oil on the screw stud behind the knob and in the hole in the front of the knob and turn the knob in and out to see if that makes it smoother. If your replacement part is not from a model 301 then the screw may be a different diameter and affecting how far the knob will turn.
Yea ....Maybe make a business lol. Anyways its the lever that goes up and down to make stitches longer or shorter. That piece is connected to something in the machine ...right? I dont know what its called. You can unscrew it and screw it back into that part inside the machine. Then the big screw below the hand wheel you told me to tighten or loosen. Maybe too tight I dont know. Hope this explains it.
Ok, got it. The big screw controls the pressure on the lever as far as how easy it moves up & down only. Loose enough to move the lever up & down freely, but tight enough to hold the lever on the stitch length you want while sewing. (no creeping up, your original problem)
The screw that goes thru the chrome thumb screw connects to the actual Feed Regulator inside behind the numbered plate. That screw should be tightened all the way into the Feed Regulator so it (the screw) does not get loose when you turn the chrome thumb screw. If the thumb screw is hard to turn it is usually a matter of cleaning/oiling.
Hi Andy. Viewing your 404 restore in hopes to get ideas for my 403a. Machine is locked up, believe it's in bobbin case/hook assembly, but needle bar in upper position, so can't remove bobbin case due to the rotating hook assy position finger is up. Any recommendations? Thx
Personally I have never had a locked machine caused by the hook/bobbin case. More often it has been the needle bar, take-up lever or a bushing or bearing (or a few of them) old, dried up oil is usually the culprit, unless there is rust on the machine. There are different ideas about freeing up a stuck machine. One method is to put fresh oil everywhere it says to oil the machine in the instruction manual. The idea is the new oil with soften the old oil and allow movement. You can also warm those areas with a hairdryer to help get things moving. Never force movement though. I usually dismantle a machine completely so if I have a frozen one I spray penetrating oil (like WD40) in all the lubrication places. I do not mind the mess b/c I'm taking it all apart to degrease and clean it anyway. But you can just use a penetrating oil in small controlled amounts on places most likely to be stuck, like the needle bar bushing, shaft bushing, etc. and even the hook area if that's what you want. To be sure you get all the lube points you can download a free copy of the Winger instruction manual for the 403A here:
www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20403A%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Pages 89 - 91 show the lube points. (no oil on gears please) All the parts move together on a sewing machine and if one part is stuck the others can't move.
I do not know of a way to remove the bobbin case or hook if the machine is frozen.
Andy, I am following this because I want to clean my 403a. I appreciate your videos. What do you use to clean the exterior and the metal parts...and if they have some rust on them? For oiling what oil do you recommend? Again, thank you very much. David
Glad you tuned in, David.
I use Krud Kutter original on the body & parts. Don't leave it on the paint very long though. You can cut it 25 to 50% with water
Website: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter
Usage video on parts:
ua-cam.com/video/g2Yumqqel-g/v-deo.html
Usage video on the main body:
ua-cam.com/video/d6juEKFj790/v-deo.html
The Must for Rust website: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor
Usage video:
ua-cam.com/video/xlAl-VhVgOg/v-deo.html
I use Tri-Flow oil & grease.
Website oil:
www.triflowlubricants.com/product/superior-lubricant-drip-bottle
Website grease:
www.triflowlubricants.com/product/synthetic-grease
These methods & products are what I've evolved to using over the years.
The 403A is a great machine. I like it better than the more popular 401A.
Great thanks again