Danby DDR5009REE Dehumidifier Repair
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2015
- My Danby DDR5009REE was 3 months out of warranty when it started shutting off randomly. The digital display was flickering and I suspected a bad circuit board due to excessive moisture build up inside the unit. After bypassing the float switch, the freeze protection, and thermal overload protection, I knew it was either the humidity sensor or circuit board had gone bad. Since the display seemed to read humidity correctly, I concluded the board was bad. The symptoms exhibited were the unit would turn on, fan would run, but compressor would either never engage or engage briefly and then the unit would shut off while flashing the "full" light. Here's how to fix it yourself without having to spend more than 25 cents!
Hey everyone, wanted to update the video with some info. First of all, if you do install a timer, make sure the UNIT HAS POWER ALL THE TIME, and the timer only controls the fan and compressor or preferably just the compressor. If you try to power up the compressor and the "system" at the same time, the capacitor will not have time to charge and the compressor motor will not run and will most likely burn out!
Also, be careful which wires you connect from the fan to any switch. I accidentally used the Hi and Low speed wires instead of the Hi / Neutral and Lo/ Neutral and ended up burning up the fan. $30 mistake, for the much I could have replaced the circuit boards. Good luck! This is not dangerous, if you want to be cautious, discharge the capacitor by connecting the terminals with a screw driver before any work.
Are you sure the 30uf or so capacitor for start up motor need a timer relay?
@@user-bw9bh2xb8v The capacitor needs power to charge up BEFORE the compressor turns on. The timer should actually go on the fan/compressor. The capacitor should be wired to charge as soon as the unit is plugged in
SolarNova ： you would know it is not necessary when you read the circuit diagram again.
Your humidifier has been recalled because it's a FIRE HAZARD. Please contact the manufacturer for compensation.
I've found that a common problem leading to many failures is gov't overreach and regulations...... all for your safety.... of course.
Great video on getting gov't out of the dehumidifier. Lol
This is the best video on this subject I’ve found!! Been looking forever thank you so much
It's amazing how those warranties tend to be exactly the right length to leave you out in the cold.
I suggested a timer to my brother as well. He says it works well.
Very nice break down of the process. I felt like crap when I made mine, and I honestly didn't expect anyone other than my brother to watch it, so I skipped the detail figuring he would call me if he was confused. I would have taken a little more time if I had known how many views it would get.
Excellent video, thanks for posting. Still relevant 4 years later :) I just did this to an old Whirlpool dehumidifier that wouldn't start after sitting idle over the winter. No lights, but power was fine. Another circuit board problem. Nearly identical to the Danby, but the wires were different colours.
For other people doing this (perhaps on a different make), here's a couple of tips.
Take pictures of your set-up before starting. This way you don't have to remember "was it the red wire, or the yellow wire I took from that slot......".
Lower control board: this is where the power comes in from the outlet. The black wire (from plug), white wire (from plug), compressor "on" wire (red in this video), compressor capacitor wire (blue in this video), and fan line wire (yellow in this video) should all be connected near each other on the board. The two fan speed wires should also be connected near each other, but well away from the wires noted above. This is how I was able to identify them on my unit.
Other fan wires: you shouldn't have to disconnect the fan capacitor wires. IF you do, keep track of them.
If you make the two wires connected to the switch fairly long, you can route them out of the unit through one of the openings in the plastic covers. I tested my setup, disconnected the switch, then ran the two switch wires out through the top grill as I was putting the cover back together. Reconnected the switch, and had a fully assembled working unit with the switch on the outside.
I picked up a rather nice and clean Whirlpool unit at the curb on garbage pickup day. I plugged it in and ran it overnight. The bucket filled with water to the point of shutting off the unit. But...
I detected that occasionally when the electronics were powering the unit off, the compressor would remain running. Now, when the evaporator/condenser fan isn't running, but the compressor is, heat builds up. It doesn't take long for the thermal overload switch to trip at the compressor.
Okay, let's check the relay operating the compressor... Sure enough, the control side goes high and low (12 volts) as commanded by the electronics. However, the power side remains hot all the time intermittently. Even with the power cord removed from the mains, continuity was at the power side of the compressor relay. A lookup of the number printed on the relay shows eBay has them for under $10 U.S. including shipping. A relay is on the way!
Once the relay arrives and the faulty unit replaced, we'll see if that was the only problem or there are other issues in the electronic logic.
Boy, let me tell you... The dehumidifiers sold today are pretty much garbage lasting barely out of their warranty periods.
@@TheSealShepherd Yep! It was the relay. For the last two seasons, that free-at-the-curb dehumidifier has been keeping the air dry in my basement over the Summer months for the last two seasons!
The control board typically uses relays to turn on and off the fan and the compressor motor.
Attach two wires from the relay power terminals and connect them to a switch. In this way you can manually turn on. If it works, your compressor and wiring is fine (the relay is not getting its act). Now remove the wires from the relay power contacts and attach two wires to the relay coil. First without AC power apply 12Vdc to the coil (minding polarity), hear the click and confirm with Ohm meter the relay operation. If the relay works, repeat with AC power. If it does not - replace the relay . If the relay works but gets no turn on command, trace the coil connection on the PCB to eventual transistor that is supposed to energize the relay...
Excellent presentation !
Thanks for the video! I am going to buy this exact model so that I can follow your instruction to decouple the main components from the circuit. I need a dehumidifier for a research project, but since I am a mechanical engineer, I don't know how to deal with the electronic circuits, this way it will be easy to just make the system work.
+Houman see my post above
Thanks foe the further info Joe! and Happy new year :-)
Thank you for sharing your video. I have a Carrier dehumidifier (26 months old) and I have similar problem like your and I figured all dehumidifier work the same in theory, so I did exactly what you show me in the video and it work wonderfully (Although it was too late, my wife already purchase another dehumidifier, any how, I know I will have a reliable one when the new one fails in 6 months).
Thanks for the the video, just did the fix on my dehumidifier
Thanks so much for the video. Luckily my problem was the bucket sensor switch so it was an easy fix. Saved me the cost of a new machine!!!
I "dissected" five units to now and I did find :- even to open the cover sometimes you need proprietary tools- they break down few months after the warranty is up- they are designed on purpose as not to be fixed- obtaining the schematics of the board is impossible.I wish masons shall be much more careful building and waterproofing the basements.
I have two Shinco 30 pint humidifiers and used for one season last year and when I started the units this season, they both would not start due to bad humidity sensors gone bad. Maybe I should have cut them off over the winter? I bypassed the all the digital circuit boards as you illustrated in your video. They are both working in which I installed the manual cut off switch to the compressor as you did in the video. I plan to install a humidity controller to replace the manual switch to the compressor. The controller is $21 on Ebay. Thanks for the video! My cabin humidity is back to healthy levels..........
good video, could you wire the line through the over flow switch normally closed, so when it fills it breaks the circuit and turns the power off?
different model but tried everything until your vid.
removing all electronics and add a switch thanks to you.
just about to wire it up
thanks for the tip
I'm on my third Danby due to similar issues. I bought the Menards warranty so they just replace it with a new one without any questions. Well now the warranty is dead and mine shows "Hi" on the display yet the fan runs full blast. The compressor won't kick on. I'm assuming the thermal overload sensor is shot or the compressors is really overheating.
Tells me exactly what I needed to know, that it can run without the stupid electronics... I am looking into making a Arduino controller to replace the junk factory controllers.
Cool let me know how it goes!
There were lots of dehumidifiers that have been recalled (nearly 10 million over the past 5 years or so) for catching on fire. There are hundreds and hundreds of incidents. I don't think yours is recalled, but I do know that other danby models are!
you could probably incorporate an aftermarket generic dehumidistat to control the whole thing too. What are your thoughts on that?
Anyone knowhow to put this in diagnostic mode. Most control panels have a key sequence that takes you to diag mode to both read sensors, and set relays or logic on. The logic board can be bought on the danby site for $30
Have you ever taken apart the compressor? I was thinking of sawing one of my broken humidifiers apart with a hacksaw and see what is inside that goes bad. Is the inside of the compressor under presser? I wouldn't want it to explode if I saw it apart.
I had a westinghouse model ED257R1 that I got from my parents. It lasted 40 years and all I ever did to it was buy a new fan motor for about $10 after it was 30 years old. I bought the motor at Graingers.
I then bought a Sears Kenmore model 580.51650000. It only lasted about two years. I took it to Sears to have it fixed and they said the compressor was bad and it would cost about $169 to fix. I didn't fix it and bought another brand and will never buy a Sear Kenmore dehumidifier ever again.
I looked at Consumers report and they rated a Danby Premiere Model DDR509REE very high so I got it and it has been working fine for about 5+ years and I have not had to fix anything on it.
Thanks John
I got a dehumidifier it runs an after a while turns off . After a little while al turn it back on an after a while still goes off so what causes it to goes off ... need help plz
Thanks for this video, I followed it and my coils were not getting cold, so tells me that compressor lines are blocked or it leaked all of its gas
I rewired it exactly like you did and have power. fan works and compressor turns on but my coils aren't getting cold and hot? compressor isn't running as smooth as yours either. any suggestions?
I have this. It's not working properly, and the full tank indicator keeps turning on, even though the water tank has been drained, what's the solution? Thank you very much.
Looks like the same model as mine. I wish you would have shown how to remove the control/circuit cover. I can't for the life of me figure it out. All the screws are out. It pops up in the middle but the skinny ends won't budge no matter how hard I pry.
I would think a timer to run the unit would not work as you have to charge the capacitor before the compressor will run. I would think to add a time delay for the compressor instead of the switch. Then you could run the dehumidifier off a timer.
Can you show an image of the other sode? Mine is all rusted...
Excellent video thank you. Can you tell me how to open the white top section with the keyboard buttons.
I have it loose on one side and will break it open if cant find solution.
Again thank you.
P
Let me tell you : there two screws are hidden underneath the screen cover of function pad. You need to peel off the film at each side about 1.5 inch to the edge. You will find these two screws. Removing its and you will split the function pad.
Diagnostic mode? You see me doing it don't you? Haha. Good luck let us know if you find it. Only thing I did not try was shorting out the connection for the freeze sensor, try that plus everything else I did and you will know if it is your logic board, you cannot damage it more than it already is, trouble is knowing which board to replace.
Here is what i found. My display panel did not seem happy as it was working ok, but it kept displaying a 59 followed by a 60. The power circuit board looked ok, as the capacitors were not bulging, and none of the transistors were not burnt, etc. i ordered the logic board (under the keypad), and the unit is 100% functional again.
I was able to get the compressor, and fan to run with a bad logic board. I tripped the water sensor till the machine shut down, then i replaced the water bucket, and the machine fans came on, then i lowered the humidity to 30%, and repeated this a few times till i heard the compressor kick in. This told me the compressor, and power relay board were somewhat ok. Also, check the power board compressor relay that is in the center of the board. I think those burn up. If he compressor wants to come on, the logic board sends the power board a signal to send ~12 volts to the relay. I was never seeing 12 volts, so that is how i guessed a bad logic board.
+SolarNover personally i'd rather replace the Motherboard in Dihumidfier
For a layperson it is impossible to get the diagnostic algorithms. Only the specialized shops have them and they will not release/discuss them
That bypassing of parts is fine for trouble shooting but can't leave it like that and run the unit unattended. There are insurance issues for if and when the thing catches fire.
hi.
i have this model and the power button dosent work. somehow i cant figure out how to remove the circuit board...
can you please do a teardown video so i see what screw i missed. thanks
I have the same issue. How the hell do you get that LCD board out? I reconnected all the connections on the power board and it started back up, ran 2 minutes and then died forever more. I am not gutsy enough to run this with the safeties disabled.
Having trouble removing the case. Top ans sides are free but bottom seems interlocked in place and I'm not seeing the key to the puzzle. Any suggestions or tutorial on this? Thanks.
Never mind. Found the 2 remaining screws that were hiding in plain sight.
The capacitor does not need to "charge up" before the compressor starts. It is an AC circuit. The voltage and current reverse 120 times a second.
you are wrong. The capacitor needs AC power before the compressor tries to engage or it will rotor lock
@@SailingKitabu Let's pretend you are correct even though you aren't. What provides the delay between start winding and main winding energizing? Answer is nothing. They get energized simultaneously by the same relay. You said it needed to charge before the main winding was powered. That is incorrect. The capacitor provides a phase shift to the start winding
So happy to help man! Take the Power Back! www.SuperiorSolarVA.com
Mi same model is new and is dead any ideas???
You know your shit.
I'm looking at fixing a dead relative humidity sensor, which shows E1 on the display. Everything else works fine, but because it doesn't know what the humidity is, it will never shut off when the humidity level is reached. I can't find a replacement for the sensor because it has lots of meaningless numbers and codes on it which Google yielded no results for. I'm not going to throw away a £120 unit because of a bad sensor. It's a smart looking unit which they don't sell anymore.
You didn't show how to take the frame off :(.... I needed that part, because I can't get mine off. But thank you anyways!!!
its just screws, you have to dig for them, pry and poke in all the places and it will come apart in two halves
@@SailingKitabu Awe, thank you so much!!! That was fast, and much appreciated SolarNova, like the name!!! God bless you always, for you!!!!
my model is DDR45A3GDB ....very similar to your model...the innards look like a carbon copy................
Mine only draws the humidity to about 55-60.....then the compressor shuts off, but the fan runs continuously.....if i restart the unit, it will kick-in /run awhile then revert to fan only.....i need to get the compressor to run continuously and hook up a timer as you suggest.....since i have nothing to loose....i will diddle around (using your wiring info)...being careful not to electrocute myself.....ps....even if unplugged....is there a danger/caution to avoid that huge capacitor?? mine went kaput 2 months over warranty .....somethin' fishy here.......maybe a class-action suit might be in order,...ya think?? when i called Danby...their attitude was like "good luck sucker"......
+J.R. Zippie Try disconnecting the freeze sensor wire from the circuit board, that may fix your issue. Apparently they go bad often.
are you kidding? What a bunch of useless, time consuming garbage,,,,,A master of double talk and confusion...
Joe Seraphin I just had same thing! The freeze sensor I unplug and that fixed it. Now before I put back together should I replace the freeze sensor or just leave unplugged?
Joe Seraphin update... I don’t think that’s it now. When I breath heavy on the humidity sensor I can see the readings that it’s going up on display but compressor doesn’t kick in until it gets around 85 or above. I’m thinking of just bypassing that sensor but unsure of what wires in the 4 ribbon wire to tie together
Dangerous. Grrrr
Thats asking for trouble
Very informative but your videography is making me sea sick!