All the time this takes and supplies needed (the cost exceeds a replacement) you convinced me throw out my broken one. Thanks! BTW, you can go faster with those bursts. Not necessarily to go that slow.
You can buy the refrigerant for about $89 bucks and the piercing valve for about $10. The refrigerant he has that comes with the gauge is about $190. The $89 refrigerant doesn't have a gauge. My take on this is if I'm going to spend $190 for the refrigerant I'll get a leak detector, piercing valve, a really good gauge set on Amazon and then get the $89 can and I'll have the equipment to service other things around my house. My refrigerant is the R410-a
Thanks for these 2 videos, this one looked very similar to mine and now it works great. Was just low on refrigerant. I got the piercing valve from Walmart.
@@supjay3945 before you try it, mine lasted about 4 weeks and died again, likely leaked out. So I bought a new dehumidifier. It's just an a/c tap line. Ordered it from Walmart. Was not worth the effort for me. Good luck
Freon is Dupont's name for r12 and r22. So I was a little confused when I was your video. But great instructional video keep up the good work. Btw if you dont like calling refrigerants by their number r410a can be called Puron.
@@paulmoffat9306 This is outdated. R134a was used in cars starting in 1994 until recently. Many cars now use R1234yf as R134a is being phased out. Older residential A/C used R22 no longer being made. R410a is common now.
THANKS HEY Just got done doing a 1 year old fridgidaire 90 was a little scary the pressure gauge jumped from zero to 20 after alot of filling so patients folks let it cycle
Reganrepairs, thank you for the videos - nice job. I have a question: My dehumidifier is freezing up and I'm assuming the problem is it needs a charge. If my system is freezing up because it's low on coolant, doesn't that mean somewhere on my system there's a leak? If you don't find and repair the leak, isn't it just going to need (and keep needing) to be charged up with additional coolant?
Thanks for the video I'm a bit confused though. I don't understand why the ice spread when you gave it more freon... and then when you gave it even more, the ice receded.
Hi,Thank you for your nice video,it is helpful!May I know what is the band for the R410A Refrigerant,and where can I buy it?could you please leave a link for R410A Refrigerant?
Thanks for the info. Man, a can of R410a like this costs 140 dollars? That's the same price as a new dehumidifier. Can you just empty the system and replace with R134a?
Jim ... what Bullet Valve did you use? Can you tell me the one you purchased?. They all seem to indicate they are not for use with R410A. I purchased a BPV31 but when I read the instructions it says not to use with R410A. Thank you.
@@chrisglass7654 I wondered about this also. So I researched it and confirmed that bullet piercing valves are safe to use with R-410A when installed on the low side (suction line) only. This is the line from the evaporator to the compressor. It is usually covered with mastic or foam insulation. This is the line which gets cold when the unit is running. Note that R-410A has much higher operating pressures than R-22 or R-134A. Therefore it is wise to avoid making any connections to the high side, which may have several hundred PSI while the compressor is running.
Why could your not hold the R410A bottle the other way up and put gas into the system instead of liquid since liquid could be a problem to the compressor?
Your straightforward demonstration on how to recharge a faltered dehumidifier encouraged me to try it also. I would appreciate if you could answer the following questions before I feel more confident to do try it myself. The dehumidifier in your demonstration looks (or is) the same as mine. What should the low/high pressure be in a normally working unit? - with motor running or not? The answer will help in estimating the loss of refrigerant after comparing the present pressure with normal pressure. Of course, the connecting valve (piercing valve) is always connected at the low side. Specs show that the pressure in a working unit is 290 - 580 PSIG. Is that range on the low side/suction side - when running? Presently the unit is not cooling down, i.e., not collecting water. Where would I be able to buy a recharge tank the size/type you are showing in the demonstration - and the cost? Your helpful reply would be appreciated. Best regards.
I purchased the same system just recently, and you can get it as a 'kit', which is the gas tank and a hose with a gauge. Always use the gauge that is intended for the gas being used, as the pressures do change (R22 is lower than R410a or R134). A 1.8 lb kit for R410a is about $135 US (Pro Charge brand) on eBay.
Thanks for the video! Did the silver clamp on the compressor end come with the r410 kit? I'm looking at mine and I don't see any connectors for adding freon.
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Thank You for the demonstration, My compressor runs but there no frosting occurring. I’m assuming there’s no refrigerator gas in the system or it’s too low. I don’t have a valve g
Your straightforward demonstration on how to recharge a faltered dehumidifier encouraged me to try it also. I would like to have your private email as I have some other questions.
Great video. Can you confirm where you installed the valve? Is it installed at the line coming out of the compressor where the freon has been compressed to a liquid?
i have ice to the first pipe or evaporator is noemal? how much is the the lowest temp to the evaporator in room temperature????? and how mutc is the highest temp to the compressor?? the ice.in the beginning of evaporator and before it is Normal??? i dont know how mutc gramms 407 i must put
Small appliances, proper way to do this is to evacuate the system and per the nameplate, weigh in exact amount. The demonstrated method works also but there is no guessing with weigh in method.
Don't use r134a it is not compatible with anything except r134a. If you aren't sure what refrigerant to use it should be marked on the compressor with the type of refrigerant and I compacity of refrigerant as well as the amount of oil required.
My 70 pint Hisense almost quit working. Just a little part of the condenser coil is cold. But I notice the compressor is very hot. Is that because it is low on freon or do they all get blazing hot? Thanx for the video.
All the compressors get hot. Heat is a byproduct of compressing the refrigerant. As a fluid is compressed it gets colder therefore heat is released and as the refrigerant expands it gets warmer therefore heat is absorbed from the air this the reason the coils get cold or in the case of low refrigerant the refrigerant expands too much and the coils freeze over. If you have the correct amount of refrigerant in the system the coils will only condensate which is how the water is removed from the air.
@@zachqueen8316 ZQ - I understand the concept of LHV (Latent Heat of Vaporization). I just wanted to know how hot does the typical dehumidifier compressor get. Maybe I didn't make that clear. Is 120F normal? 160F? 180F????
Yeah sorry I didn't realize that. Most people don't realize understand it so I just figured I would post it in the event you didn't understand it. Typically though under normal operation they get hot enough that you can't typically hold your hand on them very long but not typically hot enough to burn instantly. As for specific operating temperature that I could not give you.
@@zachqueen8316 In that case, a normal human hand can usually withstand about 125 degrees of heat before most people have to let go, so it sounds like based on your description, the compressor may get to be around 130 degrees or so F.
@@zachqueen8316 Just to note that fluid can not be compressed. When gas is compressed by the compressor, the gas get hotter. The compr output line will be hot. When the gas goes thru the condensor coil it cools and condenses into a liquid. As the liquid goes thru the fixed orifice, it expands into a gas, cooling the coils. Your explanation on why coils freeze up sounds good.
I have Amana dehumidifier D970E-E and is not collecting water anymore. I assume I run out of Freon. Where can i find small quantity of freon. I assume should be R410A
hi my dehumidifier Dandy need R410A, can Top it with another gaz, mixing with another gaz is ok or not, because a live in Canada and I find not R410A in automotive store
Another gas is not ok the oils are not compatible. R410a is alot more expensive than r134a and is not sold it automotive stores as cars do not use 410a only 134a. If you mix the two refrigerants the oils will make a curdled milk like substance and destroy the compressor.
I just purchased a secondhand refrigerant R290 dehumidifier. It’s called the corlitec dehumidifier. How do I know if it’s operating well? I’m afraid of a potential gas leak/carbon monoxide leak. Is a refrigerant dehumidifier capable of doing those things? Thank you.
You’ll know it’s operating well when it dries a damp area. The evaporator coil gets cold to do that. If it isn’t pulling moisture from the air, it’s not working. Carbon monoxide leaks wouldn’t be possible. That’s an issue with natural gas or propane furnaces and water heaters. A refrigerant leak is possible. Toxicity isn’t a huge issue with a small system like a home dehumidifier. It can be with bigger systems.
@@flyingdaworld I wouldn't say that gas appliances are "unsafe," just make sure your furnace flue is not blocked by leaves or a squirrel nest, etc. Not a bad idea to have a CO detector/alarm just like you most likely have a smoke detector. Your dehumidifier is electric though, right? (Electric motors turn the compressor and fan?)
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
@@zachqueen8316 Can you provide just one textual reference that backs up your statement. These are closed systems engineered so the refrigerant is compatible with the oil. Here is a link from ACHR-News describing how oil and refrigerant react in an HVAC system. No mention of refrigerant breakdown over time. www.achrnews.com/articles/135762-inside-refrigerant-and-oil-relationships
Ken is correct. There should be no refrigerant loss. These closed systems should run with no loss for 20 years. The fact that this is a new dehumidifier means there is a definite leak in the system that should have been addressed first! I do not recommend people doing what he did. Bullet valves are only good for a couple of years at most and are not intended to be opened and closed multiple times (this causes them to start leaking). The fact that he used a bullet valve, refused to repair the leak, and did not properly measure the refrigerant pressure in the system are all indicators that this unit will not function for very long or at efficiency level. This is why you do not buy used items like this on eBay. People like him are doing this and the units go bad in as month or two! Very bad repair video!
@@user-sy6uo9vz6o Try adding something like cliplight super seal. It is for a/c systems and repairs leaks in the metal parts as well. The cheap stop leak products only work on non metal leaks so make sure what you get will repair metal leaks. Do not add the entire amount. Only about 1/4 of the canister. After it has circulated through the system, turn it off for a couple hours then turn it back on and refill with refrigerant. Before you do any of this, make sure the compressor is working. If the compressor is running but the coils do not get cold, the problem is low refrigerant. If you want to find the exact position of the leak, you can use an auto ac leak detector. The easiest way is to just use a leak repair sealant. Just be careful not to add too much sealant as it will limit how much refrigerant you can add.
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
Most recharge kits, have the gas mixed with a UV leak marker and a sealing agent - that is why he was shaking the can to keep it mixed. Once filled, and running for a while, a UV light can show where the leaks are present. If the leak is a tiny pin hole, the sealant should do its job.
Hello! I really like your videos. Thanks for uploading them!! I wonder why a dehumidifier loses refrigerant so that it requires some recharging. I mean, does a refrigerant fade with no leaking in the system? I'd appreciate your kind reply.
I bought this unit as a refurbished item, I am going to assume that there must be a small leak some where, it’s a closed system, and theoretically it should not lose any refrigerant, Jon has a good explanation on charging in a previous comment. Thanks for Watching
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
@@zachqueen8316 Freon doesn't wear out!! I have worked on units made 70 years ago! I can't imagine where you heard this, surely not from a competent repairman!
I got mine off ebay. Frosty-Freeze A/C Products Company. Just be careful. The cans may come with a little metal cap on the bottle. When unscrewing that cap, make sure you're in a room with no breakable items like windows or your fine china collection. Point the cap away from your face and slowly unscrew it. There may be substantial pressure and that cap will shoot off like a bullet. I was an idiot. Package arrived, I opened the box, I loosened the cap, there was a loud bang. Scared me, scared the dog, the wife screamed. The cap shot past my face and ricochet off a mirror. So I highly recommend a face shield or safety glasses when messing with these things.
This is no longer possible as the manufacturers have all conveniently discontinued R134a dehumidifiers which were the only ones that could realistically be recharged- even though they run better. Most have also switched to ridiculously short 1 year warranties. Planned obsolesence.
This makes no sense to me.... the freon leaked out but you didn't repair the leak. It's just going to leak out again? I've had several dehumidifier units. None of them lasted more than 2 years. Why can't any American company make a dehumidifier that LASTS?
This isn't an accurate charging method. It will get the machine running, not necessarily optimally and there's a possibility of liquid refrigerant getting back to the compressor. You can overcharge or undercharge depending on the operating conditions. There's no required psi, it greatly varies depending on the operating conditions and design of the unit. DIY kits like this aren't good because they increase the likelyhood of the work being done incorrectly. Need recovery machine, proper gauges, thermometers, vacuum pump, brazing torch, nitrogen, plus knowledge of theory to do refrigeration work correctly. People think charging is like inflating a tire. These units have fixed metering devices, so there are two valid methods: 1. Superheat - temperature rise above boiling point. boiling point determined by pressure and sunction refrigerant temp measured with insulated or clamp thermometer. Subtract measured temp from saturation temp. Normally the required superheat depends on the operating conditions and there are tables indicating what the superheat should be for a/c. But in a dehumidifier application, because the condenser is cooled by cold air from the evap coil and the temp of the cold air is proportional to the load on the evap coil, it should stay pretty consistent. It should be anywhere from 5 to 15F degrees. The ideal superheat is 0 with no liquid getting to the compressor, but manufacturers design for above that to be sure no liquid gets back. 2. Weight, which requires recovering all the refrigerant and weighting in the amount on the rating plate. This is the best method for small appliances like this.
Yeah, but accurate would be sending it back to the factory with the people who made it 6-12 years ago, next best would be a licensed HVAC specialist familiar with the process and coolants, if not this specific model. But still, if you were going to throw it out and buy a new anyway....
Not worth it. First it’s not fixed. It will need to be charged again and again. Second - valve and Freon cost. If the dehumidifier has a low side leak it may last longer. If it has high side leak it won’t last long at all. Problem dehumidifier is poorly made.
You are filling on the low pressure side so why not just flip the freon can right side up? That way you dont inject the liquid just the gas which is what you wanto to keep from damaging your compressor with a slug of liquid.
You cannot charge R410A as gas, only liquid. R401A is a composite of different refrigerants, not a single like R12 and R22, If charged as gas, the lower fraction boils off first giving you the wrong gas, which will change the mixture both in the supply bottle and the device being charged.
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It shouldn't frost at all. The frosting indicates the system is overcharged! What is sub cooling limits and over heated vapor rules fall in the play? Overcoming would flood the compressor and it eventually get damaged.
Quit saying you are using Freon you are using refrigerant Freon is a brand name made by DuPont!!! Unless you're using Dupont refrigerant then you may say freon.
All the time this takes and supplies needed (the cost exceeds a replacement) you convinced me throw out my broken one. Thanks! BTW, you can go faster with those bursts. Not necessarily to go that slow.
You can buy the refrigerant for about $89 bucks and the piercing valve for about $10. The refrigerant he has that comes with the gauge is about $190. The $89 refrigerant doesn't have a gauge. My take on this is if I'm going to spend $190 for the refrigerant I'll get a leak detector, piercing valve, a really good gauge set on Amazon and then get the $89 can and I'll have the equipment to service other things around my house. My refrigerant is the R410-a
@@michaelprosperity3420 I strongly believe that R410-a is could be easily replaced by R-134A
My dehumidifier cost over $500.00 This is well worth it in my opinion.
@@nudracodad738 can i really use 134a in a 410a system ?
Thanks for these 2 videos, this one looked very similar to mine and now it works great. Was just low on refrigerant. I got the piercing valve from Walmart.
Whats the kit called? Thx
@@supjay3945 before you try it, mine lasted about 4 weeks and died again, likely leaked out. So I bought a new dehumidifier. It's just an a/c tap line. Ordered it from Walmart. Was not worth the effort for me. Good luck
You inspire me and I am going to get my dehum back in service......
This is great, super helpful - Thanks!!
Thank you for sharing this info. It was very helpful!
Freon is Dupont's name for r12 and r22. So I was a little confused when I was your video. But great instructional video keep up the good work. Btw if you dont like calling refrigerants by their number r410a can be called Puron.
Good to know, thanks for Watching
R12 is not in use anymore
the most common now is r134a or Tetrafluoroethane
@@egSmith-sp9gl R134a is used in automotive applications, R410a is used in most residential AC units.
@@paulmoffat9306 This is outdated. R134a was used in cars starting in 1994 until recently. Many cars now use R1234yf as R134a is being phased out. Older residential A/C used R22 no longer being made. R410a is common now.
great videos
Where can I find the piercing valve and r410a can with hose and gauge?
THANKS HEY Just got done doing a 1 year old fridgidaire 90 was a little scary the pressure gauge jumped from zero to 20 after alot of filling so patients folks let it cycle
Reganrepairs, thank you for the videos - nice job. I have a question: My dehumidifier is freezing up and I'm assuming the problem is it needs a charge. If my system is freezing up because it's low on coolant, doesn't that mean somewhere on my system there's a leak? If you don't find and repair the leak, isn't it just going to need (and keep needing) to be charged up with additional coolant?
It makes total sense now, thank you for this vid.
brilliant!
Thanks for the video
I'm a bit confused though. I don't understand why the ice spread when you gave it more freon... and then when you gave it even more, the ice receded.
Did the compressor get real hot to the touch when you recharged?
Hi,Thank you for your nice video,it is helpful!May I know what is the band for the R410A Refrigerant,and where can I buy it?could you please leave a link for R410A Refrigerant?
Thanks for the info. Man, a can of R410a like this costs 140 dollars? That's the same price as a new dehumidifier. Can you just empty the system and replace with R134a?
where did you get your gauge a push valve with hose , and the 410a
thanks im going to try this , im a techy ,like new stuff,
did you have to recharge it since the video?
awesome video, It's shame that R410A is being faze-out! Where did you get your gas from I'm struggling to find one here in Canada :(
I’ll be damned it worked! Finding a hose for r410 wasn’t that easy but I’m ready to open up my own dehumidifier service business
Jim ... what Bullet Valve did you use? Can you tell me the one you purchased?. They all seem to indicate they are not for use with R410A. I purchased a BPV31 but when I read the instructions it says not to use with R410A. Thank you.
@@chrisglass7654 I wondered about this also. So I researched it and confirmed that bullet piercing valves are safe to use with R-410A when installed on the low side (suction line) only. This is the line from the evaporator to the compressor. It is usually covered with mastic or foam insulation. This is the line which gets cold when the unit is running. Note that R-410A has much higher operating pressures than R-22 or R-134A. Therefore it is wise to avoid making any connections to the high side, which may have several hundred PSI while the compressor is running.
Did he provide the source for the filler device and Freon?
Why could your not hold the R410A bottle the other way up and put gas into the system instead of liquid since liquid could be a problem to the compressor?
Hi, which way the fan blows?
Can i put propane in my r22 vintage AC ?
Cant buy any refrigerants here in europe
Your straightforward demonstration on how to recharge a faltered dehumidifier encouraged me to try it also. I would appreciate if you could answer the following questions before I feel more confident to do try it myself. The dehumidifier in your demonstration looks (or is) the same as mine.
What should the low/high pressure be in a normally working unit? - with motor running or not? The answer will help in estimating the loss of refrigerant after comparing the present pressure with normal pressure. Of course, the connecting valve (piercing valve) is always connected at the low side. Specs show that the pressure in a working unit is 290 - 580 PSIG. Is that range on the low side/suction side - when running? Presently the unit is not cooling down, i.e., not collecting water.
Where would I be able to buy a recharge tank the size/type you are showing in the demonstration - and the cost?
Your helpful reply would be appreciated.
Best regards.
I purchased the same system just recently, and you can get it as a 'kit', which is the gas tank and a hose with a gauge. Always use the gauge that is intended for the gas being used, as the pressures do change (R22 is lower than R410a or R134). A 1.8 lb kit for R410a is about $135 US (Pro Charge brand) on eBay.
Thank you very much for your very helpful reply.
Yeah, the cost is not worth it. Just buy a new one. If the coils have a hole anyway, you won’t have any choice.
I have 3 units that need charging. How much refrigerant does one unit take approximately? Do I need to buy 5 pound tank?
How much pressure in psi should the gauge show
Thanks for the video! Did the silver clamp on the compressor end come with the r410 kit? I'm looking at mine and I don't see any connectors for adding freon.
Michael Chanslor its called a bullet piercing valve you can get on ebay or amazon
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Thank You for the demonstration, My compressor runs but there no frosting occurring. I’m assuming there’s no refrigerator gas in the system or it’s too low. I don’t have a valve g
Sorry to add the gas , any suggestions. This unit is only 1 year old . GE model uses the 410A gas
Your straightforward demonstration on how to recharge a faltered dehumidifier encouraged me to try it also. I would like to have your private email as I have some other questions.
great info. I am curious. The refrigerant escaped, was the leak fixed before refilling?
Details 😂 with all the cost to get the stuff to repair it, cheaper to just buy a new one.
Hello, all I need is hose and gauge like your , where can you get them?
Great video. Can you confirm where you installed the valve? Is it installed at the line coming out of the compressor where the freon has been compressed to a liquid?
NO! Low Pressure side or Suction side. High pressure side could explode the can.
what is suction psi would be it normal surrounding like 72 degree
I see you use R410A. It's not available to the DYIer it seems. Can R-32 suffice?
i have ice to the first pipe or evaporator is noemal? how much is the the lowest temp to the evaporator in room temperature????? and how mutc is the highest temp to the compressor?? the ice.in the beginning of evaporator and before it is Normal??? i dont know how mutc gramms 407 i must put
My dehumidifier takes r22, can i put in 410
where to buy the Freon and the Gauge? Thanks
Amazon :)
@@MrAnderson2845NOPE
It would be nice if the type of refrigerent was stated in the video
What the heck you get the valve in I take my dehumidifier part no valve to charge BS, and I have same exact brand Hisense
Small appliances, proper way to do this is to evacuate the system and per the nameplate, weigh in exact amount. The demonstrated method works also but there is no guessing with weigh in method.
Any idea of E2 error on a Hisense?
Where did you get the hose ? Have Freon from auto parts store but it’s the quick disconnect not screw oh
Hi, the hose came with the Freon kit, but you can get the connectors on eBay cheap, thanks for Watching
Don't use r134a it is not compatible with anything except r134a. If you aren't sure what refrigerant to use it should be marked on the compressor with the type of refrigerant and I compacity of refrigerant as well as the amount of oil required.
My 70 pint Hisense almost quit working. Just a little part of the condenser coil is cold. But I notice the compressor is very hot. Is that because it is low on freon or do they all get blazing hot? Thanx for the video.
All the compressors get hot. Heat is a byproduct of compressing the refrigerant. As a fluid is compressed it gets colder therefore heat is released and as the refrigerant expands it gets warmer therefore heat is absorbed from the air this the reason the coils get cold or in the case of low refrigerant the refrigerant expands too much and the coils freeze over. If you have the correct amount of refrigerant in the system the coils will only condensate which is how the water is removed from the air.
@@zachqueen8316 ZQ - I understand the concept of LHV (Latent Heat of Vaporization). I just wanted to know how hot does the typical dehumidifier compressor get. Maybe I didn't make that clear. Is 120F normal? 160F? 180F????
Yeah sorry I didn't realize that. Most people don't realize understand it so I just figured I would post it in the event you didn't understand it. Typically though under normal operation they get hot enough that you can't typically hold your hand on them very long but not typically hot enough to burn instantly. As for specific operating temperature that I could not give you.
@@zachqueen8316 In that case, a normal human hand can usually withstand about 125 degrees of heat before most people have to let go, so it sounds like based on your description, the compressor may get to be around 130 degrees or so F.
@@zachqueen8316 Just to note that fluid can not be compressed. When gas is compressed by the compressor, the gas get hotter. The compr output line will be hot. When the gas goes thru the condensor coil it cools and condenses into a liquid. As the liquid goes thru the fixed orifice, it expands into a gas, cooling the coils. Your explanation on why coils freeze up sounds good.
Love the video, its a great help, but the word is “Thaw” not “unthaw” which actually means “Freeze”... LOL... Sorry about that...
I have Amana dehumidifier D970E-E and is not collecting water anymore. I assume I run out of Freon. Where can i find small quantity of freon. I assume should be R410A
The label on the compressor should state what gas is used, and how much.tnks
What the brand of Freon ?
hi my dehumidifier Dandy need R410A, can Top it with another gaz, mixing with another gaz is ok or not, because a live in Canada and I find not R410A in automotive store
Another gas is not ok the oils are not compatible. R410a is alot more expensive than r134a and is not sold it automotive stores as cars do not use 410a only 134a. If you mix the two refrigerants the oils will make a curdled milk like substance and destroy the compressor.
You can find vendors for a recharge kit for R410a on eBay (about $135 US), and they do ship to Canada.
Why does the the line first freeze up and then stop ??? Can you put in a sealer with the gas to keep the unit from losing the gas ???
Many of the recharge kits have a sealant and UV dye indicator in the gas mix - the 410a kit that I purchased (Amazon) had that.
@@paulmoffat9306 Thanks Paul for the information fella. VF
I just purchased a secondhand refrigerant R290 dehumidifier. It’s called the corlitec dehumidifier. How do I know if it’s operating well? I’m afraid of a potential gas leak/carbon monoxide leak. Is a refrigerant dehumidifier capable of doing those things? Thank you.
You’ll know it’s operating well when it dries a damp area. The evaporator coil gets cold to do that. If it isn’t pulling moisture from the air, it’s not working. Carbon monoxide leaks wouldn’t be possible. That’s an issue with natural gas or propane furnaces and water heaters. A refrigerant leak is possible. Toxicity isn’t a huge issue with a small system like a home dehumidifier. It can be with bigger systems.
@@Joopsmann thank you for your reply! Would you say a completely electrical appliance is safer than a gas-run appliance?
@@flyingdaworld I wouldn't say that gas appliances are "unsafe," just make sure your furnace flue is not blocked by leaves or a squirrel nest, etc. Not a bad idea to have a CO detector/alarm just like you most likely have a smoke detector. Your dehumidifier is electric though, right? (Electric motors turn the compressor and fan?)
How long did it continue to run before needing another charge? I didn't see you address any leaks so I have to assume that's a temporary fix...
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
@@zachqueen8316 Can you provide just one textual reference that backs up your statement. These are closed systems engineered so the refrigerant is compatible with the oil. Here is a link from ACHR-News describing how oil and refrigerant react in an HVAC system. No mention of refrigerant breakdown over time. www.achrnews.com/articles/135762-inside-refrigerant-and-oil-relationships
Ken is correct. There should be no refrigerant loss. These closed systems should run with no loss for 20 years. The fact that this is a new dehumidifier means there is a definite leak in the system that should have been addressed first! I do not recommend people doing what he did. Bullet valves are only good for a couple of years at most and are not intended to be opened and closed multiple times (this causes them to start leaking). The fact that he used a bullet valve, refused to repair the leak, and did not properly measure the refrigerant pressure in the system are all indicators that this unit will not function for very long or at efficiency level. This is why you do not buy used items like this on eBay. People like him are doing this and the units go bad in as month or two! Very bad repair video!
@@clintonrh My dehumidifier did not collect water. I wonder how can I check the leaks that you just mentioned?
@@user-sy6uo9vz6o Try adding something like cliplight super seal. It is for a/c systems and repairs leaks in the metal parts as well. The cheap stop leak products only work on non metal leaks so make sure what you get will repair metal leaks. Do not add the entire amount. Only about 1/4 of the canister. After it has circulated through the system, turn it off for a couple hours then turn it back on and refill with refrigerant. Before you do any of this, make sure the compressor is working. If the compressor is running but the coils do not get cold, the problem is low refrigerant. If you want to find the exact position of the leak, you can use an auto ac leak detector. The easiest way is to just use a leak repair sealant. Just be careful not to add too much sealant as it will limit how much refrigerant you can add.
How many more times can you say uhh uhh? Damn
very nice thank you
Does the dehumidifier have to be operating in order to remove the freon?
No they apply a vacuum pump and draw the freon out
You must have a leak issue.. Did you fix the coil leak before your recharge?
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
Most recharge kits, have the gas mixed with a UV leak marker and a sealing agent - that is why he was shaking the can to keep it mixed. Once filled, and running for a while, a UV light can show where the leaks are present. If the leak is a tiny pin hole, the sealant should do its job.
Hello! I really like your videos. Thanks for uploading them!!
I wonder why a dehumidifier loses refrigerant so that it requires some recharging. I mean, does a refrigerant fade with no leaking in the system?
I'd appreciate your kind reply.
I bought this unit as a refurbished item, I am going to assume that there must be a small leak some where, it’s a closed system, and theoretically it should not lose any refrigerant, Jon has a good explanation on charging in a previous comment.
Thanks for Watching
I mad with the manufacture, new unit lasts only few years. Broken fan, noise or run dry on freon... too much problems...end up in scrap yard.
qiansview m
Leaks aren't always the cause of the refrigerant loss. The refrigerant break's down over time and becomes sediment in the oil. Over several years of constant use you will eventually have to add more refrigerant.
@@zachqueen8316 Freon doesn't wear out!! I have worked on units made 70 years ago! I can't imagine where you heard this, surely not from a competent repairman!
Curious what if dehumidifier not blowing hot air, coils not cold, low refrigerant?
Where did you purchase the R410a refrigerant???
I got mine off ebay. Frosty-Freeze A/C Products Company. Just be careful. The cans may come with a little metal cap on the bottle. When unscrewing that cap, make sure you're in a room with no breakable items like windows or your fine china collection. Point the cap away from your face and slowly unscrew it. There may be substantial pressure and that cap will shoot off like a bullet. I was an idiot. Package arrived, I opened the box, I loosened the cap, there was a loud bang. Scared me, scared the dog, the wife screamed. The cap shot past my face and ricochet off a mirror. So I highly recommend a face shield or safety glasses when messing with these things.
how to remove freon from dehumidifier
What type of freon do you use?
My system uses r410, yours may use a different Freon, check the label on the side of the compressor, or on the side of the unit
Thanks
What it's actually doing is thawing. To dethaw or unthaw is to freeze.
Agreed!
If my dehumidifier is blowing hot air is that a sign it needs freon?
Do your viewers a favor and link to what you used in this video.
When the system is charged properly, the frost will flash away and you're done.
Can you use r134 instead?
No, should be same type to be compatible. Check the unit's label to verify the gas used.
This is no longer possible as the manufacturers have all conveniently discontinued R134a dehumidifiers which were the only ones that could realistically be recharged- even though they run better. Most have also switched to ridiculously short 1 year warranties.
Planned obsolesence.
This makes no sense to me.... the freon leaked out but you didn't repair the leak. It's just going to leak out again? I've had several dehumidifier units. None of them lasted more than 2 years. Why can't any American company make a dehumidifier that LASTS?
Most unit do not have the shudder value on the unit
That's the evaporator
This isn't an accurate charging method. It will get the machine running, not necessarily optimally and there's a possibility of liquid refrigerant getting back to the compressor. You can overcharge or undercharge depending on the operating conditions. There's no required psi, it greatly varies depending on the operating conditions and design of the unit.
DIY kits like this aren't good because they increase the likelyhood of the work being done incorrectly. Need recovery machine, proper gauges, thermometers, vacuum pump, brazing torch, nitrogen, plus knowledge of theory to do refrigeration work correctly. People think charging is like inflating a tire.
These units have fixed metering devices, so there are two valid methods:
1. Superheat - temperature rise above boiling point. boiling point determined by pressure and sunction refrigerant temp measured with insulated or clamp thermometer. Subtract measured temp from saturation temp. Normally the required superheat depends on the operating conditions and there are tables indicating what the superheat should be for a/c. But in a dehumidifier application, because the condenser is cooled by cold air from the evap coil and the temp of the cold air is proportional to the load on the evap coil, it should stay pretty consistent. It should be anywhere from 5 to 15F degrees. The ideal superheat is 0 with no liquid getting to the compressor, but manufacturers design for above that to be sure no liquid gets back.
2. Weight, which requires recovering all the refrigerant and weighting in the amount on the rating plate. This is the best method for small appliances like this.
Thanks for the explanation, thanks for Watching
Yeah, but accurate would be sending it back to the factory with the people who made it 6-12 years ago, next best would be a licensed HVAC specialist familiar with the process and coolants, if not this specific model. But still, if you were going to throw it out and buy a new anyway....
the charge can be weighed in, the amount of refrigerant is on the rating plate. can also get it very close to factory checking superheat/subcool.
@@Jon-hx7pe That method works it the unit is emptied of it's remaining gas load.
@@ilovefunnyamv2nd Most HVAC don't want to service a small unit - not enough money for the call. They may service it if you bring it to their shop.
how much refrigerant was left in the can after you recharged it?? or how many times can you recharge it with one can??
All that depends, When I recharged my car, I used most of a can, when I did my parent's, I think I had to used a can between them
R410 is not a freon. it is a Puron
Buy an old dehumidifier and you’ll never have a leak issue.
Not worth it. First it’s not fixed. It will need to be charged again and again. Second - valve and Freon cost. If the dehumidifier has a low side leak it may last longer. If it has high side leak it won’t last long at all. Problem dehumidifier is poorly made.
Not worth fixing...I agree with other comments here...too expensive for the freon and valve.
But where can I get r410a freon? I can't seem to find a bottle like you have for sale to the public anywhere?
If you're humidifier needs r410a, only licensed person can purchase the freon and that is by law implementation.
410a is not restricted. Can be found on the internet ......it’s not cheap, but it’s available to the general public.
@@bobs7597 So, basically, my dehumidifier is garbage. No economical way to recharge it.
@@bladder1010 The coils and refrigerant can be recycled and other parts used to repair other units.
👍🏽
Sorry, the word is “thaw”. That alone means ice or frost is eliminated. De-thaw or un-thaw is nonsensical.
Still low
You are filling on the low pressure side so why not just flip the freon can right side up? That way you dont inject the liquid just the gas which is what you wanto to keep from damaging your compressor with a slug of liquid.
You cannot charge R410A as gas, only liquid. R401A is a composite of different refrigerants, not a single like R12 and R22, If charged as gas, the lower fraction boils off first giving you the wrong gas, which will change the mixture both in the supply bottle and the device being charged.
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Need to make a better effort on the way you speak up description, sound like you are trustworthy repair man
It shouldn't frost at all. The frosting indicates the system is overcharged!
What is sub cooling limits and over heated vapor rules fall in the play?
Overcoming would flood the compressor and it eventually get damaged.
Wrong...under charge
Just recorded yourself committing a federal offense lmao you can not under any circumstances let refrigerant in the atmosphere
Quit saying you are using Freon you are using refrigerant Freon is a brand name made by DuPont!!! Unless you're using Dupont refrigerant then you may say freon.