I installed a lighting coil, lights, and a horn on my Yamaha TZ250G and commuted to Seattle’s Harbor Island for a couple of years and then switched back to my 500 Interceptor (VF500F). The TZ was faster but the Interceptor was less work.
You got to open up that exhaust port on the main motor my dude. You are trying to move massive amounts of gas through there with next to no pressure differential, you can't create velocity to scavenge without a pressure differential.
That dip in the powerband, the low power, could it be wheelspin? Hmm, I remember using belt dressing spray on the roller last time I used this dyno, probably for a reason...
I think it's unlikely to be wheelspin but with such a small contact patch who knows 😂 I thought the dip was pretty normal on a two-stroke that doesn't have a power valve or similar 🤷🏻♂️
You can also wipe the tire with acetone or some other solvent, it removes any traces of oil or grease and also removes dust, that usually improves the traction
Engine and exhaust could have different timing. The powerband isn’t typically for a two stroke engine with no variable intake or exhaust. If engine and exhaust timing match perfectly you will have one peak, not two.
Have you seen Garage 4age? He's in NZ and has a chassis dyno and tests his Toyota 4AGE equipped 'turd' as it's affectionately known. He tests intake length, exhaust headers, camshafts, valve timing, compression so on and so forth. It is very grass roots like this. It is a gem of a channel. It took me more than a year to realize what an excellent channel it actually is.
This channel made me work on my gy6 moped to the point where 25mph was a struggle to the point now where i have rebuilt the engine 6 times. It sits between 40 and 45mph and has exploded on me twice. Very exciting. 😀
One thing I found very useful when experimenting with engines. Try one thing at a time. If you add more variables you don't know what exactly caused the change. Keep up the good work!
Finally some realistic dyno testing, loving the new direction your taking, start basic and adding from there one thing at a time Thats the way to gain reliable and consistent power
If you look at your power, it stays very constant while rpm increases (and torque decreases of course). That's a bit strange, to me this looks like a possible flow issue if some sort, either intake or exhaust
Lifting the vehicle off the rolls reminds of about 25 years ago with our Clayton 8.65" dual roll emissions dynos with clutch-able flywheels and hydro-kinetic power absorption unit (PAU, for road load simulation). The flywheels were to simulate the vehicle mass in 125 pound increments from about 2000 pounds to 6000 pounds. Each increment needed a friction power loss calibration. With no electric motor on the system, a vehicle had to spin the dyno system (rolls and flywheels) up above 55 mph. Then an air jack system would be actuated to lift the rear bumper of the vehicle so that the drive wheels were off the dyno rolls. A timer measured the time to coast between 55 and 45 mph. The coast time and flywheel inertia setting was used to calculate and adjustment to the road load setting for the amount of friction in the dyno system for each flywheel combination. A table of friction power adjustment was created and used to adjust the road load setting for the 50 mph road load horsepower setting that was entered into the PAU controller. Calibrations are mostly automated and simpler with the 48inch diameter single roll dynos with electric road load and inertia simulation that replaced those old Clayton dynos. Electric dyno is mechanically simpler too, without a bunch of flywheel clutches and bearings that needed replacement every now and then.
Why not run a wideband O2 sensor and get more insight into your AFR? Seems like it would save some of the guesswork having visual insight as to what is happening.
It feels like everything just went up a notch and got more interesting and exciting when you shifted direction. I feel like this has helped make the path forwards clearer. Applaud you for the ability to do this, especially when it involves abandoning something you spent so much time working on like the dyno and beam mounted setup. I think you've nailed it with the last two videos, and the plan you have from here - you seem reinvigorated and I think all of us are too. Loving the editing too - it's just so fun and engaging to watch. Can't wait for next weekend!
Modern day "Reodor Fälgen". In the early days of the 90´s in the Gocart scene you aleways wanted the carburator as close to the inlet as possible. I´ve forgot duration timing of exhaust though. Kör på -du är på god väg. Cant get enough of this.
This dyno is awesome! But be aware of the wheelspin or clutch slipping. Im pretty sure it has wheelspin because its a common issue on inertia dynos and with that narrow tire.
This is so sketchy and I love it. That’s a lot of power to the axle, can that axle reliably handle those loads? 10HP spinning parts up to catastrophic failure is a LOT of energy I think.
Dear friend, it is so nice to listen at crispy 2stroke sound in the early weekend morning! It is getting more and more exciting and seeing these engines running in a real frame is even more nice. Thanks from germany!
17:03 = Yup... EXACTLY what I'd bloody do!.. Hahaha It's typical for me to be concentrating on something/working on something and I'd knock, bang into, drop a tool, of just generally bang, scrape, cut or trap myself doing the thing I was trying to do hahaha... (if the keyboard is buggered, I could HIGHLY recommend the 'Logitech K400 Plus' I use one, have seen other tuners use them and, as it is a keyboard and trackpad in one, it's a great little unit (I can attest it does survive stupid drops too! 😉)... Nice to see with your change in Dyno tactics you're getting the results and less troubles you need to continue this project 👍 😎🇬🇧
So happy to See the bike on the dyno doing repetetive tests! Thoughts on supercharging: - when pipe is on it will pull in air/fuel during blowdown. With pressurerized air/fuel even more will go down out the exhaust. So maybe less blowdown with pressurerized crankcase? - reed valves work via pulses (right?) but with sc you will maybe push the reeds open or even risk of breaking them? - could you again tell us the timing of the ports? - so basically if you want to trap more air/fuel in cylinder blowdown does not help - even the pipe will work somehow against the trapping of mixture in the cylinder. Rethinking the design? What do other 2-stroke supercharged folks do? You are awsome dude!!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
losing power as the engine heats up - smells a little bit like compression issues. how is the piston and ring doing? also, speaking of smelling things, maybe the brakes or chain start dragging when they get hotter? don't think it's wheelspin though, a warmer tyre should actually have more grip than a cold one
Die DB50 Motoren waren echt super zum tunen, der Minarelli 345 Am6 aber nicht so anfällig und auch vom Durchzug her und von unter noch etwas besser! Wie immer super Video! 👌🏻
When that powerband hit, it cemented my desire to get a 2 stroke again. Beautiful bokeh shots by the way! Can't wait to see your engine running in a frame.
cold air is slower than hot air in terms of wavespeed. so more than one reflection in exhaust and or intake become out of phase at the dip. if you push it out to red line, then it limits overrevving also. 15Hp possible easy peasy. cool vid.
That's how my benchs look too, out of hand is the order of the day...every day, year after year, 45 minutes after its surgery grade clean. Hats off to the tinkerers
i honestly dont mind that you intended to put the PIP engine into the speedway frame but instead had a play with the 77cc on the working dyno. it was just good to watch everything working as it should for a change
Great video mate. Looking forward to seeing the results of the motor in the frame on the dyno . Fingers crossed that you get the results you are looking for. Cheers mate from Australia 🇦🇺
Any gains in having a micrometer adjustment on the ignition stator so you can adjust it on the fly while the engine is on song so you can optimise timing? It would require a bit of fiddling and ingenuity and possibly a third hand!!! But I am sure you could think of something!
I use my phone for reading the numbers on jets. Zoom in and then take the photo and check on your gallery after you take the picture. Good for "old eyes" 👀🤭
Great episode - you can really feel the fun vibrations - looks like systematic progress too. Endlessly fascinating to watch this channel and see all the things a smart person can do!
I'd just like to say thank you. You've inspired me to turn in a totally different direction. I'm 51 and I'm going back to work, I got jack shit for hands on experience, but I understand HOW a motor works, I welded for a while, in my welding shop there was a powder paint booth and oven and lastly I've spent countless hours working on bicycles growing up. So, logically I came to the conclusion that I need to start my own my business, so I'm going to build custom motorized bicycles. I've got an a absolutely unique hook to bring in customers, unfortunately THIS particular bit of info must stay secret until it's time to implement it. I'm in the process of devouring every video you've put out. I really enjoy your videos and especially your delivery, very engaging, I doff my hat to you good sir.
Try to keep your prices low unless your near bigger income areas. Used to build them and couldn't sell for 500 bucks but mid income area in Indiana. Used to make custom headbadges for bikes as well
Lead keeps fuel from goin stale as fast, and is really bad to breathe the exhaust fumes. Aviation uses 100 octane low lead to fight detonation in low oxygen environments.
Love your work, as always very entertaining. My work place gets like yours, I focus in something, create a big mess, once I've got it right, and happy with it, I clean up afterwards, then start the next project. It's a vicious cycle, but I love it. I bought not long ago, one of the China Cheap pistons, to fit into my YAMAHA AG100 1973 382, I had to cut the intake ports into piston and it meant I didn't have to go first over size bore, just honed it to suite, so 3 pistons first bore, I got nearly 6000 miles out of it, I could feel the compression drop recently, then on the 26/1/23 the locating pin of piston, for the top ring, worked lose, then bounced around on top of piston, did some minor damage, luckily I had a spare barrel and matching piston, genuine Yamaha, that'll keep the old girl going for a while.
I wonder what the power difference is on winter/summer pump fuel? You could try that over time. If any of your motors run on 95/98 octane. I don't know how much they change the fuel on Norway though. I've heard that here in Sweden, they add some ethanol or stuff to make engines start and run a little better when colder.
Have you considered creating an expansion chamber with twin stingers, of differing characteristics, that can be remotely switched between whilst the engine is running??
Mill the head to increase compression ratio, run methanol, increase carburetor size, maybe raise exhaust port top a mm or two? 'Since your powerband is purely up top: Maybe expansion chamber needs to route out of the jug going straight down? Is the volume of the belly of that expansion chamber and length from that, out the silencer / spark arerester tuned to your displacement / RPMS pulses?
I wonder what would happen if you were to go to a slightly larger exhaust pipe, after, the expansion chamber. I wrote this before you commented on the stinger diameter.
To get the best plug readings it might be interesting to get a set for warming up and a set for actual data. I really enjoyed the sounds of this video, you captured it well. Brings back good memories!
Question This carb has a primary jet? What does it idle at and what rpms does it achieve before the needle lifts to give metered fuel. Is the primary optimised and is the needle and main jet matched to the primary as it looks like there is a mismatch as such the primary is creating a lean condition on the transition and then the main jet is compensation hence the dip and the bigger main jet. Blank the main and change the primary to optimise the throttle through to 5k rpm once you are happy with this throttle response then it is time to look at needle and main. To feed into the mixture. The primary doesn't shut off, it has its own pathway and so is as integral to the mixture at mid and high rpms as it is in low. If its wrong then the whole ratio can be out across the whole throttle range. Regards harryb
Try building a real airbox and use longer intakes two strokes have to be tuned in the front, middle, and the end to make real power. Every one of those little motors I have all have an airbox and filter housing in order to run properly. Plus a good pipe.
You really need to use that yourdyno trick i gave you in the last video for getting engine rpm and letting the dyno work out the ratio for you in one click. I will re post : YOURDYNO TIPS : Go to yourdyno, Start new run or load existing, Click RPM Setup, Go to gear ratio setup tab, Engine RPM Source box choose Tacho, Put 10,000rpm in the Tacho RPM setpoint, Use a tacho or your ignition unit and hold the motor at 10,000rpm. Then click lock gear ratio. Simple as that. No need for any sensors, trigger wheels, or wiring (All susceptible to noise). The motor does not change its ratio and neither does the retarder. Super simple.
Peak power at 11000rpm? I thought that the pro race kit peak power was around 14-15000rpm? And 15+bhp? Or is that power figure at crank? Even the SP kits peak power is around 12-13000rpm according to the metrakit information if I remember correctly? Carb size? Ignition timing?
Great to see you enjoying some quality time with the new setup. And to see some of the effects that different jet sizes, longer or shorter intake lenghts and engine temperatures have on engine power and rev range. Maybe some time in the future, when you run out of topics (so probably never...) you can make a series on tuning for example a rotax kart engine (or x30, or rok, ok, kz, whatever) within what the regulations allow. I guess thousands of hobby racers around the world would appreciate and benefit from it.
Hello Friend. In my opinion, the failure of power at high revolutions is possible due to the effect of resonance. I think we should try to install another exhaust pipe :)
You could cheat a bit and change to an electric water pump if you already haven’t. Could possibly gain a horsepower on 11 000+ rpm. But then again powering it would be a hassle.
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That anecdote gave me flashbacks.
I installed a lighting coil, lights, and a horn on my Yamaha TZ250G and commuted to Seattle’s Harbor Island for a couple of years and then switched back to my 500 Interceptor (VF500F). The TZ was faster but the Interceptor was less work.
You got to open up that exhaust port on the main motor my dude. You are trying to move massive amounts of gas through there with next to no pressure differential, you can't create velocity to scavenge without a pressure differential.
Do a compression the 1st test after the 3rd or 4th. See if u drop about 7 psi
You would get so many views with Indonesian subtitles. 2stroke bikes man.
Sometimes I am more excited for these videos than I am for the actual weekend.
feel you
True 😅
What is a weekend?
@@ghockings rest days for rich people
I agree 100% wake up Saturday and watch this with a coffee ❤️perfection
That dip in the powerband, the low power, could it be wheelspin? Hmm, I remember using belt dressing spray on the roller last time I used this dyno, probably for a reason...
maybe ... try different weight on wheel ... u will see ... this bike is crasy 😅🤣🤣🤣
I think it's unlikely to be wheelspin but with such a small contact patch who knows 😂
I thought the dip was pretty normal on a two-stroke that doesn't have a power valve or similar 🤷🏻♂️
You can also wipe the tire with acetone or some other solvent, it removes any traces of oil or grease and also removes dust, that usually improves the traction
Engine and exhaust could have different timing. The powerband isn’t typically for a two stroke engine with no variable intake or exhaust. If engine and exhaust timing match perfectly you will have one peak, not two.
Try cheap hairspray on the rear!
Getting my 2 stroke fumes in early, what a nice way to start the day.
As an engine builder and mechanic, Easily my favourite channel on UA-cam. Good work mate.
Have you seen Garage 4age?
He's in NZ and has a chassis dyno and tests his Toyota 4AGE equipped 'turd' as it's affectionately known. He tests intake length, exhaust headers, camshafts, valve timing, compression so on and so forth. It is very grass roots like this. It is a gem of a channel. It took me more than a year to realize what an excellent channel it actually is.
@@ThePaulv12 not to mention his vvt conversion on a 16v
@@youwantshum9860 pppppp
This channel made me work on my gy6 moped to the point where 25mph was a struggle to the point now where i have rebuilt the engine 6 times. It sits between 40 and 45mph and has exploded on me twice. Very exciting. 😀
One thing I found very useful when experimenting with engines. Try one thing at a time. If you add more variables you don't know what exactly caused the change.
Keep up the good work!
En av dina bästa videos på länge. Riktigt roligt å se köra å tydliga resultat och skillnader på det du gör.
Man, I really missed the deathtrap. That was such a good build.
Good to see it back in action and getting the tuning it deserves.
Finally some realistic dyno testing, loving the new direction your taking, start basic and adding from there one thing at a time Thats the way to gain reliable and consistent power
If you look at your power, it stays very constant while rpm increases (and torque decreases of course). That's a bit strange, to me this looks like a possible flow issue if some sort, either intake or exhaust
wow that engine is smooth, loves being 9-10K, easily pulling hard up to its max
love these videos!
That was my thoughts too. Wonderful street engine!
I like how you deleted the last bit of strength that poor frame had in the name of power.
Love the video, cant wait for the next one :)
Lifting the vehicle off the rolls reminds of about 25 years ago with our Clayton 8.65" dual roll emissions dynos with clutch-able flywheels and hydro-kinetic power absorption unit (PAU, for road load simulation). The flywheels were to simulate the vehicle mass in 125 pound increments from about 2000 pounds to 6000 pounds. Each increment needed a friction power loss calibration. With no electric motor on the system, a vehicle had to spin the dyno system (rolls and flywheels) up above 55 mph. Then an air jack system would be actuated to lift the rear bumper of the vehicle so that the drive wheels were off the dyno rolls. A timer measured the time to coast between 55 and 45 mph. The coast time and flywheel inertia setting was used to calculate and adjustment to the road load setting for the amount of friction in the dyno system for each flywheel combination. A table of friction power adjustment was created and used to adjust the road load setting for the 50 mph road load horsepower setting that was entered into the PAU controller.
Calibrations are mostly automated and simpler with the 48inch diameter single roll dynos with electric road load and inertia simulation that replaced those old Clayton dynos. Electric dyno is mechanically simpler too, without a bunch of flywheel clutches and bearings that needed replacement every now and then.
You have the only thing I consistently watch. No show movie or UA-camr compares
Why not run a wideband O2 sensor and get more insight into your AFR? Seems like it would save some of the guesswork having visual insight as to what is happening.
It feels like everything just went up a notch and got more interesting and exciting when you shifted direction. I feel like this has helped make the path forwards clearer. Applaud you for the ability to do this, especially when it involves abandoning something you spent so much time working on like the dyno and beam mounted setup. I think you've nailed it with the last two videos, and the plan you have from here - you seem reinvigorated and I think all of us are too. Loving the editing too - it's just so fun and engaging to watch. Can't wait for next weekend!
Have you considered adding a power valve to your design? I feel like it would help with low-to-high rpm transition
He did have something like that a little bit back
Modern day "Reodor Fälgen". In the early days of the 90´s in the Gocart scene you aleways wanted the carburator as close to the inlet as possible. I´ve forgot duration timing of exhaust though. Kör på -du är på god väg. Cant get enough of this.
This dyno is awesome! But be aware of the wheelspin or clutch slipping. Im pretty sure it has wheelspin because its a common issue on inertia dynos and with that narrow tire.
Yep, pretty sure that ppwer dip is wheelspin 👍
Love it. What could be better on a Friday evening than sitting with a beer and watching 2 stroke Dyno runs. Can't wait for the next one😊
I'm sitting with a bourbon and our cats. A bear takes a lot of my couch 😅
Lol a bear :D
This is so sketchy and I love it. That’s a lot of power to the axle, can that axle reliably handle those loads? 10HP spinning parts up to catastrophic failure is a LOT of energy I think.
Your aspect ratio you film in has single-handedly justified my ultrawide monitor purchase, so thanks for that!
I had same type of dip on power on my 150. It had shit pipe.
More advanced timing lessened the dip but didn't remove it
Dear friend, it is so nice to listen at crispy 2stroke sound in the early weekend morning!
It is getting more and more exciting and seeing these engines running in a real frame is even more nice. Thanks from germany!
Very cool. I love riding in the bicycle lane and seeing the look on people's face when I start pulling away from them at 25mph.
Have you got a china bike setup? 80cc?
@@fullsendmarinedarwin7244 a bt100 with a modified pipe is all. Top speed 35mph with my big ass
Excellent...since it is power to the rear wheel that really matters...now you can test losses in the drivetrain.
17:03 = Yup... EXACTLY what I'd bloody do!.. Hahaha It's typical for me to be concentrating on something/working on something and I'd knock, bang into, drop a tool, of just generally bang, scrape, cut or trap myself doing the thing I was trying to do hahaha... (if the keyboard is buggered, I could HIGHLY recommend the 'Logitech K400 Plus' I use one, have seen other tuners use them and, as it is a keyboard and trackpad in one, it's a great little unit (I can attest it does survive stupid drops too! 😉)... Nice to see with your change in Dyno tactics you're getting the results and less troubles you need to continue this project 👍 😎🇬🇧
Finally a nice 2 stroke sound!! You need a muffler on your custom engine..also very nice that you have a proper dyno now
nice, good to compare with a [somewhat] known engine. looking forward to see the numbers with the screamer.
So happy to See the bike on the dyno doing repetetive tests!
Thoughts on supercharging:
- when pipe is on it will pull in air/fuel during blowdown. With pressurerized air/fuel even more will go down out the exhaust. So maybe less blowdown with pressurerized crankcase?
- reed valves work via pulses (right?) but with sc you will maybe push the reeds open or even risk of breaking them?
- could you again tell us the timing of the ports?
- so basically if you want to trap more air/fuel in cylinder blowdown does not help
- even the pipe will work somehow against the trapping of mixture in the cylinder.
Rethinking the design?
What do other 2-stroke supercharged folks do?
You are awsome dude!!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
What about instead of forced induction, forced removal exhaust? Or maybe a finely tuned combo?
Definetely nice to see things finally work properly, good progress keep it up!
His neighbors must think he’s building an f1 car, only to pull out with the worlds most over engineered bycicle
So much more satisfying watching a engine used as intended 💪 definitely a improvement over the brake dyno as regards to fluctuations in the readings
I dont know if it is reasonable but i would like to see more shorts as updates between videos
I got mixed feedback when I did a few shorts earlier. Maybe a separate shorts channel, I'll think about it 👍
losing power as the engine heats up - smells a little bit like compression issues. how is the piston and ring doing? also, speaking of smelling things, maybe the brakes or chain start dragging when they get hotter? don't think it's wheelspin though, a warmer tyre should actually have more grip than a cold one
Very nice two-stroke sounds. Thanks Alex.
Could it be the rear break that is reducing power in the 2nd and 3rd run, maybe loosen it up a little?
The Sound is like music to me.
A heartwarming feeling.👍
Glad you've worked out the Dyno problem. Looking forward to next Friday
Finally, an old style video that I love!
this dyno is the best sound content creator ever
Seeing the engine in the frame and spinning a wheel will be fantastic
Always a great day when you upload!
Die DB50 Motoren waren echt super zum tunen, der Minarelli 345 Am6 aber nicht so anfällig und auch vom Durchzug her und von unter noch etwas besser! Wie immer super Video! 👌🏻
Have you tried indexing the spark plug to put the spark in the best location? Plug shrouding can really hurt high RPM performance....
When that powerband hit, it cemented my desire to get a 2 stroke again. Beautiful bokeh shots by the way! Can't wait to see your engine running in a frame.
Pleased to see you back on the standard dyno and getting consistent results. Looking forward to next video with blown engine on test.
cold air is slower than hot air in terms of wavespeed. so more than one reflection in exhaust and or intake become out of phase at the dip. if you push it out to red line, then it limits overrevving also. 15Hp possible easy peasy.
cool vid.
Truly fun episode - loved hearing the bike, and the shifting, and the revisiting an old lover...
That's how my benchs look too, out of hand is the order of the day...every day, year after year, 45 minutes after its surgery grade clean. Hats off to the tinkerers
i honestly dont mind that you intended to put the PIP engine into the speedway frame but instead had a play with the 77cc on the working dyno. it was just good to watch everything working as it should for a change
Great video mate. Looking forward to seeing the results of the motor in the frame on the dyno . Fingers crossed that you get the results you are looking for. Cheers mate from Australia 🇦🇺
Any gains in having a micrometer adjustment on the ignition stator so you can adjust it on the fly while the engine is on song so you can optimise timing? It would require a bit of fiddling and ingenuity and possibly a third hand!!! But I am sure you could think of something!
I use my phone for reading the numbers on jets. Zoom in and then take the photo and check on your gallery after you take the picture. Good for "old eyes" 👀🤭
Die beste und einfachste Lösung für einen Prüfstand 👍👍
I really like these videos, specially because in spain we tune them a lot. Try fitting a bigger pipe, a couple hp may be released.
Great episode - you can really feel the fun vibrations - looks like systematic progress too. Endlessly fascinating to watch this channel and see all the things a smart person can do!
I'd just like to say thank you. You've inspired me to turn in a totally different direction. I'm 51 and I'm going back to work, I got jack shit for hands on experience, but I understand HOW a motor works, I welded for a while, in my welding shop there was a powder paint booth and oven and lastly I've spent countless hours working on bicycles growing up. So, logically I came to the conclusion that I need to start my own my business, so I'm going to build custom motorized bicycles. I've got an a absolutely unique hook to bring in customers, unfortunately THIS particular bit of info must stay secret until it's time to implement it. I'm in the process of devouring every video you've put out. I really enjoy your videos and especially your delivery, very engaging, I doff my hat to you good sir.
Thanks! Glad I can be an inspiration, that's maybe my main goal with this channel. Means a lot!
@@2STROKESTUFFING thank you for answering you've got a loyal viewer here forever, this Is something I can do til I'm 100
Try to keep your prices low unless your near bigger income areas. Used to build them and couldn't sell for 500 bucks but mid income area in Indiana. Used to make custom headbadges for bikes as well
Love these longer videos 🤌🏼🤌🏼🤌🏼
So good to hear some Dyno pulls. Death trap is even more death with those "speed holes" in the frame.
Lead keeps fuel from goin stale as fast, and is really bad to breathe the exhaust fumes. Aviation uses 100 octane low lead to fight detonation in low oxygen environments.
Fantastic, both your enthusiasm and your results. Really enjoying your videos.
Love your work, as always very entertaining.
My work place gets like yours, I focus in something, create a big mess, once I've got it right, and happy with it, I clean up afterwards, then start the next project. It's a vicious cycle, but I love it.
I bought not long ago, one of the China Cheap pistons, to fit into my YAMAHA AG100 1973 382, I had to cut the intake ports into piston and it meant I didn't have to go first over size bore, just honed it to suite, so 3 pistons first bore, I got nearly 6000 miles out of it, I could feel the compression drop recently, then on the 26/1/23 the locating pin of piston, for the top ring, worked lose, then bounced around on top of piston, did some minor damage, luckily I had a spare barrel and matching piston, genuine Yamaha, that'll keep the old girl going for a while.
I wonder what the power difference is on winter/summer pump fuel?
You could try that over time. If any of your motors run on 95/98 octane.
I don't know how much they change the fuel on Norway though.
I've heard that here in Sweden, they add some ethanol or stuff to make engines start and run a little better when colder.
Great work! This is what I really think needed to happen to get your head in a better place. Good consistent numbers and loads of fun doing it. 👍
It looks as though your rpm is measuring the Dyno wheel rpm and not your engine. Rpm doesn't drop in between shifts or when you pull the clutch in.
Engine rpm is calculated from roller rpm in sixth gear, thats why.
I just love the experimental progress.. Well done and thank you 2SS!!
Could you modify the ignition pickup plate so that you could advance the timing manually from the handlebar, like the old 1950's bikes?
Suggesting pinning on thinner tires, for less rolling resistance. Oh, and removing brakes too.
Awesome video Alex fun videos coming.
Maybe plug temp had temp rising each run or a 115 jet may have been spoton.
Cheers.
Have you considered creating an expansion chamber with twin stingers, of differing characteristics, that can be remotely switched between whilst the engine is running??
Mill the head to increase compression ratio, run methanol, increase carburetor size, maybe raise exhaust port top a mm or two? 'Since your powerband is purely up top: Maybe expansion chamber needs to route out of the jug going straight down? Is the volume of the belly of that expansion chamber and length from that, out the silencer / spark arerester tuned to your displacement / RPMS pulses?
I wonder what would happen if you were to go to a slightly larger exhaust pipe, after, the expansion chamber.
I wrote this before you commented on the stinger diameter.
I could watch hours of this stellar 2STROKE STUFFING soul fulfilling entertainment. Thanks a bunch👏
To get the best plug readings it might be interesting to get a set for warming up and a set for actual data. I really enjoyed the sounds of this video, you captured it well. Brings back good memories!
Super excited about seeing how much hp the engine will make. Keep up the good work
I wonder how much that tire is slipping on the dyno? That can't be very much contact area for the power.
thanks for the longer video!
Question
This carb has a primary jet?
What does it idle at and what rpms does it achieve before the needle lifts to give metered fuel.
Is the primary optimised and is the needle and main jet matched to the primary as it looks like there is a mismatch as such the primary is creating a lean condition on the transition and then the main jet is compensation hence the dip and the bigger main jet.
Blank the main and change the primary to optimise the throttle through to 5k rpm once you are happy with this throttle response then it is time to look at needle and main. To feed into the mixture.
The primary doesn't shut off, it has its own pathway and so is as integral to the mixture at mid and high rpms as it is in low. If its wrong then the whole ratio can be out across the whole throttle range.
Regards harryb
It’s hard to believe all that noise, rpm and power comes from a little two stroke. Can’t wait to see the forced induction on the chassis dyno.
this does it i need to start my bike after the winter sleep.
i'd like to see if there's a hp advantage in 2 stroke mix oils
A friggin' hard tail moped. Surely the best frame to put the engine in!
Great video! Id be terrified of a bicycle wheel spinning that fast.
Considered building an opposed cylinder 2 stroke maybe?
Bro right after u said this is why 2 strokes make u smile when u revved it I literally was smiling and couldn't hold it back like why 😂😂
Try building a real airbox and use longer intakes two strokes have to be tuned in the front, middle, and the end to make real power. Every one of those little motors I have all have an airbox and filter housing in order to run properly. Plus a good pipe.
You really need to use that yourdyno trick i gave you in the last video for getting engine rpm and letting the dyno work out the ratio for you in one click. I will re post : YOURDYNO TIPS : Go to yourdyno, Start new run or load existing, Click RPM Setup, Go to gear ratio setup tab, Engine RPM Source box choose Tacho, Put 10,000rpm in the Tacho RPM setpoint, Use a tacho or your ignition unit and hold the motor at 10,000rpm. Then click lock gear ratio. Simple as that. No need for any sensors, trigger wheels, or wiring (All susceptible to noise). The motor does not change its ratio and neither does the retarder. Super simple.
You also dont need to lift the bike to measure the losses. Do the losses with the bike strapped down. Then its the total losses for the run.
"Tidying up, it's getting out of hand". You should see my test bench.
I almost forgot about that death trap. The engine can't fall out if it's already on the ground right?
Hey are you gonna start making customs parts and sell them?
Videos like this make me want to go back to school
Peak power at 11000rpm?
I thought that the pro race kit peak power was around 14-15000rpm?
And 15+bhp?
Or is that power figure at crank?
Even the SP kits peak power is around 12-13000rpm according to the metrakit information if I remember correctly?
Carb size?
Ignition timing?
I'm confused too. Maybe Yasuni R3 isn't for high power and rpm, I should take some measurements.
Woohoo! On two wheels with gears and noise and, and etc etc………can’t wait to see the ‘new-motor-in-new-frame’ outcome. Keep at it!
Great to see you enjoying some quality time with the new setup. And to see some of the effects that different jet sizes, longer or shorter intake lenghts and engine temperatures have on engine power and rev range. Maybe some time in the future, when you run out of topics (so probably never...) you can make a series on tuning for example a rotax kart engine (or x30, or rok, ok, kz, whatever) within what the regulations allow. I guess thousands of hobby racers around the world would appreciate and benefit from it.
Hello Friend. In my opinion, the failure of power at high revolutions is possible due to the effect of resonance. I think we should try to install another exhaust pipe :)
I bet there are lots of Honda CR80 shifter karters that would love to see what you can do with an CR80 engine.
You could cheat a bit and change to an electric water pump if you already haven’t. Could possibly gain a horsepower on 11 000+ rpm. But then again powering it would be a hassle.
Do you consider the squish of the rear tire making the diameter at the roller contact point smaller?